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200 AMP Service Upgrade Single-Family Dwelling
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- Опубликовано: 12 мар 2022
- Ron Pecina Jr. is a licensed electrical contractor. This allows him to pull permits and schedule inspections required to do this work. If you are planning to do this work yourself check with your local building department for the required permits in your area. Also, contact your electrical utility company for any further specifications required on your area. The work shown in this video was done in an area serviced Public Service Electric & Gas Company (PSEG).
The PSEG utility company requires a special metering device commonly referred to as the “5th Jaw.” This fifth jaws measures utility grounded neutral current. The work WILL NOT PASS INSPECTION if the “5th jaw” is not present in the meter enclosure at the time of inspection.
A grounding electrode system is required and consists #2 aluminum attached to the copper water main on both sides of the water meter. The supplemental portion of this grounding system consists of #6 AWG copper attached to two ground rods driven into the earth. The grounding electrode system is BONDED to the system grounded neutral conductor at the main disconnect to complete a SOLIDLY GROUNDED SYSTEM.
200 amp upgrade:
200 amp meter enclosure
2” PVC and various fittings and connectors
2/0AWG copper conductors
#2 AWG aluminum conductor
#6 AWG copper conductor
Galvanized ground rods and clamps
Water ground clamps
Exterior grounding bus
Pressure Treated 2x4
3/4” painted plywood
200 amp main breaker 40-circuit panel
All new circuit breakers
Individual wire connectors
Call 732-770-1437
Point Pleasant, NJ Licensed Electrical Contractor | New Jersey Electrical License & Business Permit Number: 16557
Want to see more? Another 200A Upgrade can be seen here: • 200 AMP SERVICE UPGRAD...
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Classic Electric, LLC
Point Pleasant, New Jersey
08742-5406
#Licensedelectrician #jerseyshoreelectrician
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One man army. This channel really makes me want to work for myself after I’m done with school next month. Thanks for sharing
Rule of thumb should always (99% of the time) drill from outside in. You blowout the inside block the panel will cover it. Blow out the outside block and itll be very noticeable.
This was the 1% of the time.
Через жопу всё сделал, ещё и соплями
You wire like my dad, brothers, and myself. Always doing your best.
Thank you.
@@electricalron well earned, but you're welcome.
Now this is how it’s done people. Takes notes, best video for service on RUclips for sure. I do all mine the exact same way with some small differences based on area practices im sure. No SE cable, all glue and pipe, I love it. Again great job
Thank you Dustin!
What a beautiful panel. At first I was curious why you did the individual branch circuits before the entrance wires. I’m also impressed with the ease of driving the grounding rods. Last time I did this was with an hammer. Crazy how easy that looked. Love your videos - thank you.
I drove plenty of ground rods by hand when I was coming up. Believe me. Now that I have all the fancy tools - and the means to purchase them - I feel as though I have earned the right to do it more easily.
You do some very nice work and I enjoy the way you talk through the video I’ve learned a lot from you keep it up
Thanks Mike that is much appreciated.
nice job thanx for explaining
Good Job man. You are professional electrician. Keep doing good work. David Pierre. Electrician.
8:38, What is a Lag and Sheild? A Lag and Sheild is a Lag Screw and a Sheild! I would have never guessed. Great Video.
Excellent video. I wish that you had done my upgrading. I had my electric service upgraded to 200 AMP about 20 years ago. The work was done by a licensed electrician and his crew. Part 1: The first thing they did was disconnect the service line. Where I live, this must be done by the electric company. The linemen arrived to do this and gave the electrician holy hell for doing it himself. His excuse was that the electric company was late and holding up their work. The electric company approved the work and said the fine would be mailed to him. Part 2: As I watched them remove the circuit wires from the old box, I asked them why they didn't label the wires to indicate what they were connected to. He told me that would take too much time and they would figure that out once the work was done. This made no sense to me.
I do the same because who’s to say the circuits were indentified correctly?
Most of the time they are not😂
Just picked up the new milwaukee 3lb fiberglass drilling hammer. Home Depot just starting selling them here in NC about 3 weeks ago
Miss doing this work. Fell out of the loop when I took a railroad job.
Brave man no PPE cutting those wires
No load either.
Nice job, as always.
great video, not too many detailed vids doing basic panel installs. thanks!
The more details the more people will eventually watch your video and hopefully subscribe to the channel.
Great Job,…..Thanks for Sharing 👍😎
Clean work brother
nice, informative video - thanks for posting!
Classic man, classic!
Nicely Done!
Very professional work... love it
Thank you.
Really, ur the best!
I was told by measuring neutral current they can detect people stealing power
I’m sure that’s a possibility.
Love that you were so detailed in how u explained the process. My question is on the bonding jumper: Does the ground wires and neutral wires going inside the house to boxes , receptacles and light fixtures share the same terminal bus or do u put the neutral bus separate from the ground bus that is bonded?
In the panel, it’s best to land each branch on its designated location. Grounds on ground bar, neutral on neutral bar. The two are connected together only in one place btw. You might ask - if they are bonded in the panel, why not share? You can share, but if you ever put a service disconnect in front of the panel, then the bond occurs in the disconnect and you will have to separate the bond in the panel and separate all the neutrals and grounds. Hope this helps.
A well-done panel will have the neutrals and grounds separate onto designated buses.
I would guess that they check the neutral current to check what the imbalance is. Maybe they have maximum amount of imbalance in mind! Under good electrical work the imbalance should be minimized. A degree of comfort can be felt when all the normally used loads do not appear on one leg. I’m guessing of course!
The neutral current in a multi wire branch circuit (or feeder) carries the difference between both ‘hot’ legs. So if one leg draws 10 amps and the other leg carries 5 amps, the neutral current will be 5 amps.
@@electricalron
And that’s the imbalance!
@@InvisibleCitizen Thats going to vary hour-by-hour based on loads being used.
I don't see how one extra contact can measure the neutral current.
A 200 amp service should be coordinated with the utility if they don’t have 4/0 Al service coming in. The Main breaker is mostly a protective device for the utility loop.
Maybe you're not in New Jersey or have an electrical license but here we apply for permit and are permitted to disconnect/ reconnect to the utility.
Excellent video. Just fyi: the back of your head looks very similar to the back of my head.
I’ll take that as a compliment! 🤪
What if Jason is your long lost brother...
Compare those watermelons in person
Thanks Ron. From “rats nest” to picture perfect. another quality Classic. In some jurisdictions, do the inspectors require solid ground bare ground wire? Keep ‘em coming.
Solid or stranded are fine. Just make sure they are sized correctly for the service you are doing.
Hey Ron. Do you run across any aluminum wired houses up there ?
Ron, thanks for teaching us the main bonding jumper, that's important subject. In this video, you show us to install the green screw as main bonding jumper, I assume it's because this is the main panel, not sub panel. In what scenario, should we remove it? Is there an example? Thank you! I am subscribing your channel.
The green screw is the main bonding jumper. It mechanically bonds our grounding electrode conductors, our equipment grounding conductors, and our system grounded neutral together at one point to create a low-impedance path back to the source as required by NEC Article 250.4. Keep your neutrals and grounds isolated downstream from the main disconnect.
Great work. But I didn't know that electricians knew how to use a broom and dustpan ;)
That’s why I get paid handsomely. 🍺
@@electricalron I worked in construction for about 15 years before shoulder injuries forced a career change, but I was always annoyed by the messes the sparky's typically left behind. Not all of them, but a considerable number. So I really appreciated seeing you take care to clean up.
Anyhow, thanks for your videos. I am getting ready to have my service upgraded from 100A to 200A as well as having a generator transfer switch and 48A EV charger installed. I also want to have everything prepared so I can install an 8kw solar system and battery storage in the next 5 years as well, so a considerable project. Thankfully I know a great electrician that I know will do a good job so I'm happy to pay him handsomely too. Cheers!
In my area, electricians are the cleanest of the trades. We don't allow dirty work spaces.
Got a question, so I recently had a electrician replace my wire from panel up to service connection point and I asked to replace for a 200amp I’m planing on upgrading but I noticed he used 2-2-4 is that sufficient for a 200amp upgrade ?
If you mean #2 (awg)-#2-#4 (neutral) then no, that is not sufficient for 200amp. You need 2/0 copper (or 4/0 aluminum) for all three conductors. If it is a long distance from the meter to the service panel, you might need to upsize to 3/0 copper to account for voltage drop.
Awesome work! Video was great help. Was wondering if you still where available for questions? Thanks
How can I tell how many Amp service do I currently have. I’d like to add a main breaker.
I would use a 2inch rigid mast with a 2inch rigid weatherhead to the meter socket . I live in Michigan so we have to use 2 inch rigid because of the winters
So no PVC for services in Michigan?
I think PVC tends to look janky, and I wonder about the weather stresses on that bend over time. EMT should be fine, though, since the conduit isn't the anchor point.
Same thing in Illinois. For overhead service we must use rigid conduit. We only use PVC for underground service.
Just rip out that corner and put a 2x4 sheet of vinyl pvc board that's what I did.
Wrapping the ungrounded conductor is a silly waste of tape. 200.6(B)(3) (3) At the time of installation, by a distinctive white or gray marking at its terminations. This marking shall encircle the conductor or insulation.
THATS it. You're not opening conduit to look at wires. I like the 3 racing stripes but the whole thing is a waste of tape and time.
Drill a pilot bit from the inside and then core from the outside in so any blowout is behind the panel
Neutral monitoring is for a number of reasons. Are you 240 or 208? The phase separation off a 208 wye transformer makes it harder for meters to sense so they monitor the neutral return as well.
If the LB has the stamped mark of conductor fill the grounded neutral must be identified.
Hi Ron, are the black wires the same type? The one you connect the meter to utility wire, and the one you connect meter to panel inside? Are they the same SER cable? The SER cable usually has a grey color coating, or maybe the coating been peeled off? Thank you!
Thank you for this video. I’m in Michigan and am looking to upgrade from a 100 amp to a 200 amp panel. An electrician friend came out to review the work and told me what was needed but didn’t want to do the job. Left me with a lot of questions. Your video helped me answer all my questions. Any advice on how to select an electrical contractor? Low bid isn’t always best. Thank you again.
For me, if an electrical contractor sets up an appointment with you be sure that they're on time for that appointment. He (or she) should at least examine the electrical panel, water main, exterior meter and riser, and explain as clearly to you as possible the work he intends to do for you. Then get it in writing or digital form. You can always call the local building department and ask to speak with the the electrical inspector to see if he knows of the contractors work. Trust and accountability is a large part of my business. Good luck.
I have seen some of your videos, but I couldn't find A to Z grounding and bonding. I want to see the grounding path from electrode to water and gas pipe to panel. do you have any complete video? Thanks
Gas piping is never to be used as a grounding electrode. The gas piping is bonded to the system by the branch circuit equipment grounding conductor of the boiler or the furnace.
That point of attachment and drip loop seems very low. Just asking for information we’re you not concerned with the AHJ requesting a mast?
nice work. I'll give you a call.
Weare required to use schedule 80 on anything above ground...why? I dont know..is seu cable tougher than schedule 40...
HI RON I WANT ASK YOU ONE QUESTION I LIVING IN VIETNAM AND I SEE HERE THE POWER IS 220. BUT ALSO I NOTICE DON'T SUPAY THE GRAUND WIRE; U CAN TELL ME WHY ?
How do you ground when you’re using PVC conduit instead of the galvanized steel conduit? How do I continue to provide power to the customer while I’m installing the new service?
What's with the plastic sheeting on the lower half of the wall? Is there a dirt floor? Thanks for the video.
Using thhn cooper for your service wires?
Very nice job man! Do you mind if I ask you how much it would cost for that kind of upgrade at least in your area?
Thank you and nice video , very informative.
This one was $3000.00.
No outdoor disconnect?
2017 NEC
Hi Ron, another nice job. Do you service in Piscataway NJ? I need to upgrade mine to 200 AMP.
Yes I do but please call or text for info.
Hey Ron, Excellent video! My question is regarding point of attachment where the overhead service conductors are attached to the dwelling. What code reference are you using in article 230 in regards to vertical clearance? As an Electrician are you responsible for the point of attachment or is PSEG (utility)? Thanks
For this job I need to have proper clearance above the window on them house AND the point of attachment has to suspend the drop over the driveway.
Hi Ron, based on your response it would be the responsibility of electrician then?@@electricalron
@@rosaniabrian5960 Yes. The EC installs the hook.
Thanks Ron @@electricalron
Disconnecting from utility and tying back in with no gloves? You got balls haha
It's routine around here.
@@electricalron I understand you can't be shocked on a fiberglass ladder and that you aren't grounded, but is it possible something happens to ground you (your foot contacting aluminum siding for example) without you knowing?
@@danequeed4129 totally could happen too. My old boss did that once on white aluminum siding and left a huge scorched mark. It could be terrifying, no question.
@@electricalron lol damn alright good to know!
Was scary but fun to watch you disconnect the service wires! How do you do that live? Great work btw! Ty
Years of practice and continuing education. The key is not being grounded or becoming a conductive path for electricity flow. The meter is never installed before the “buggin in” is complete.
Michigan codes are a lot more stricken per necessary also
Per NEC
You have a harsher climate there too right?
@@electricalron no not really just tougher rules
Hey Ron, Where could I get some of those butt connectors used at the top of the mast for the main power lines? I would like to get the set-screw ones like you use but I can only find crimp-on ones which I don't want to use. Great work btw! - I watched a bunch of your videos tonight and have really learned a lot. Thanks
Just ask for 4/0 AL butt splices. They’re about $12 each.
No emergency disconnect?
New Jersey is still using the NEC 2017.
EM disco’s were amended out of the state adopted 2020 nec here in NC
@@CryptoiNNERG That's good to know. I did a service upgrade for a friend on Cape Cod and Massachusetts has already adopted the 2020.
@@electricalron Massachusetts adopts each new NEC on Jan 1. (LOL!)
Jw how do you get away with not adding emergency disconnect for main panel when you do these swaps . Any one I've done I've had to replace panel and add emergency disconnect per 2023. Just curious lmk thanks
This video is about a year old I believe. NJ did not adopt NEC 230.85 until 9/6/23. Check out the description in my videos for links to NJ REHAB SUB CODE
@electricalron . Oh I see well thanks for letting me know I was looking Into any exceptions their was but it looks like no matter what either new or replacement need emergency disconnect. Thanks keep up great work and videos I love watching
Isn't the conduit between the panel and meter supposed to be a gal steel pipe instead of PVC for continues grounding?
Where's the part where your adding the grounding wire?
The nipple can be pvc or galvanized steel but if it’s pvc it does not have to be bonded because pvc does not conduct electricity.
@@electricalron do you have another video where you show your grounding wire route? I have #4 bare copper and there's so many different answers to which way it should flow from from 200 amp service.
I have a line coming down from the telephone pole goes underground to a plywood pedestal with the 100 amp meter, and a 100 amp shut off then under the ground to my mobile home with a 100 amp breaker box inside.
If I want to upgrade to a 200 amp service would I have to replace the existing wire from the pole to the meter also?
You should contact your utility company and ask them. I say this because they’re all different from state to state. You’re likely responsible for the wiring from the meter/ disconnect to the panel in the house.
@@electricalron ok I definitely will. Plan on hiring someone before fall to upgrade to 200 amp. One person said no another said yeah🤷♂️ just wasn't sure what size wire has to be going to the utility pole for a 200 amp service. Ny state is slow at everything anyways. Thanks
@@dudleydorite7678 if your house was here in JCPL territory the underground wiring to the utility would be on you. Check the utility company website too. It should have that information. Might be hard to find too
@@dudleydorite7678 You will need at least a 2/0 URD. Im running 270 feet and using 4/0 and probably could have used 250 Rust. I had to upgrade to 2.5" PVC schedule 40 for above ground conduit.
Ron, I'm curious. why didn't you install a meter pan with a main disconnect? I thought that code requires a main disconnect on the outside off the house.
Because NJ has not adopted that section of the code for this work.
Our 200A needs to be 4/0. The overhead line from the utility company is 2/0 but inspectors want 4/0 from the drop to the panel.
4/0 Aluminum to conform to the NEC but I highly doubt a 2/0 drop from the poco.
@@electricalron Yea 2/0 line, then 4/0 from the weather head down.
That's dumb unless you are using aluminum wire. If 2/0 is sufficient to carry the load from the utility to the weather head, it is sufficient to bring it down to the meter socket. There is zero reason to use 4/0 in the middle. It serves no purpose electrically.
@@TwilightxKnight13 Agree, but inspectors wont.
310-17 ampacity chart, conductors run in free air, 2/0 al is good for 210 amps at 75degc. This is because it can dissipate heat easier in free air than in conduit.
No meter cans, meter main combos available in my area
I’m so lucky last August I just happened to be in the right place at the right time and got half-dozen 200A with the 5th jaw. This was the last one.
I see you didn't address NEC2020 part 230.85 Emergency disconnect and Part 230.67 Surge Protection.....
NEC 2017 in NJ. See that?
Cognitive video, thanks. Questions: If I can upgrade the service to 200 by myself, and replace the meter panel and wires (I don't have an electrical license but I am an electrical engineer) ? or May some electrical with a license can come and disconnect the main wire and when I all replaced to connect again?
The best advice I can give you is to hire a licensed electrician.
Question…doesn’t it make sense to somehow label the wires associated with each circuit before disassembly of the panel so that you know which is which when you install the new panel?
How do u know it’s labeled correctly? You don’t. Unless the owner tells me each breaker IS labeled correctly.
@@electricalron I see your point, but if it was even in the ballpark, I would think it would be easier to have a starting point than to start from scratch. You can obviously tell from the wire gauge what size breaker you need when you go to install the new panel. However, if you don’t know where the circuit is going, how would you know which type to use, e.g. standard, afci, dual afci/gfci. Alternatively, wouldn’t it be helpful to figure out where all the circuits are going prior to removing the old box and then label the wires accordingly? Please don’t think I am criticizing. I am in no position at all to judge an expert. I am just very curious as to why it wouldn’t be easier to do that work up front.
I have a 100 amp service, it's only around 10 years old, I need more space, can I put in a sub panel, or would I be better off upgrading to 200 amp?
In my honest opinion, I would encourage you to go to 200 amps just so you have a minimum of 40 circuits and have enough power to do central air conditioning and an electric vehicle. 100 amps in the code minimum for an electrical service. Hope this helps.
@@electricalron it does help, thanks so much, I think that is what I will do
Did you cut live service drops?
Only the real ones work live
Sure did! I’m not gonna work the upgrade while everything’s hot. That’s a sure way to get killed.
How do you determine what cable to use from the meter box to the panel, is that USE-2?
The NEC tells us 4/0 Aluminum for 200 amps (single family dwelling).
Hey Ron, great video I am an HVAC installer and am looking to switch my 100 amp service to 200 amp service. I have swapped 100 to 100 amp panels before and from this video it seems like I would be capable of a 100 to 200 swap. Do you think it would be possible in attempt to cut costs to do it or should I just hire a certified electrician
Hire a licensed electrician. Maybe you could barter with him. Everyone needs heating and air conditioning.
How much did you charge for this particular job?
Are Afci and Gfci breakers need with new service?
They’re required by code, regardless of the jurisdiction. Unless you’re in an area where they don’t have a qualified inspector. Any service panel upgrade requires the ARC/GFCI to be installed on a circuit that provides power to an habitable room.
@@mikeking3110 Not true. It only applies if your jurisdiction has adopted the most recent version of the Code. For example, my AHJ is still working from the 2017 version of the Code so I was not required to install an external disconnect, nor a surge protector for my recently upgraded 200amp service. However, I did upgrade to dual function AFCI/GFCI breakers and installed a whole house surge protector at the panel. I did not install an external disconnect because supply availability would have put the work on hold for three months.
Does the service drop from the pole need upgrading? What gauge is that?
It was #2 aluminum through free air. The size of the conductors is up to the utility company wether or not they need to be upgraded.
How is this 200Amp service calculated. Per hot-wire, or both hot-wires together? In other words, is it a 24kW or a 48kW service. And if the latter, why would any domestic house need 48kW? (I live in a 3-phase 230V/400V country myself, I know US domestic is usually split-phase120V/240V)
You can consider it 48kW. Homes in the United States use more power. Our power also tends to be less expensive.
How did you size the grounding electrode conductor it looked small?
The NEC has a chart. Table 250.66
So you guys use butt splices and not H Taps for the taps?
Yup! Poco might come back and redo the connection anyway.
How many amps does the service wires from the transformer can handle?
The utility company (PSE&G) supplied this house with #2 AWG aluminum. They follow the National Safety Code and have different allowances for ampacity of conductors through open air like in the video.
@@electricalron quick question, I'm in Bergen county (PSE&G) so they don't have to change the wire from the pole to the weather head if I wanted to upgrade to 200 amp, just need new wires from the service head?
@@EMTDawg It depends on what's already there.
So why not just go straight up on the riser instead going right? I've would have done that it would have looked cleaner and nicer and pretty 😍...! Lol, but good video my friend..!
Straight up? Above the roof line??
Hey man what model and brand is that watch, looks nice.
I broke two iWatches on the job so I bought a couple of Cascio G-Shock watches. Never any issues with the G-shock.
That sure does not look like 2/0 copper wire from the grid. But yeah, it’s next to impossible to see the true size in a video.
The drop is #2 aluminum.
are home owners allowed to do the work themselves here in NJ? from the meter to the panel ?
I guess we will never know.
Homeowner can get the permit for their home in New Jersey. The normal inspection and adherence to local codes are still necessary
What's the height requirement to install a meter box?
Check with your utility company.
Did the utility company disconnect their service so you could touch the drop? Maybe I missed it if you mentioned it but I can't imagine you touching their wire too splice to the weatherhead while its energized. Did you or the customer call ahead with proof of permit for them to disconnect ahead of time?
We do it all the time here in NJ. The electrical license issued to me by the Division of Consumer Affairs allows me to disconnect/ reconnect even for repairs.
@@electricalron I get that, but was the drop energized while you did this? How do you go about turning it off without breaking the big fuse at the bucket or something like that.
@@erp7625 it's done energized just like a lineman would do using the proper PPE and tools
Do you use a torque wrench?
No, and virtually no professional residential or light commercial electrician does either. Some industrial electricians do because very large terminations and high voltage applications can be very temperature sensitive and improperly terminated connections can greatly increase the impedance in circuits of that size.
Who is responsible for changing out the 100 amp wires to 200 amp from the pole to house.?
That's the utility company's responsibility.
@@electricalron 👍
@@electricalron I assume that has to happen before you start your work?
@@UnlikelyToRemember When you are dealing with a public utility NEVER assume anything
is the old meter rated for 200A ?
The meter is property of PSEG.
@@electricalron i know that but my question is has the meter been checked to verify it can handle 200A before restoring the power?
@@electricalron also there's an exception in the code for the service head being under the point of attachment:
"Where it is impracticable to locate the service head above the point of attachment, the service head must be located within 24 in. (600 mm) of that point »230.54(C) Exception« NEC 2017
looks like the licensed electricians soon will charge by hours for the consultation like attorneys 😆
How much do this Job cost
❓
I was told to never use waygos they can cause arcs same as back stabbing
That’s ridiculous.
Do not work with screws in your mouth you can accidentally swallow one it is very dangerous
Don’t stand on the top step a ladder either!
LoL. I can count on one hand the number of tradesmen that do not hold small materials in their mouth. We shouldn't work without gloves, safety glasses, safety toe boots, and hard hats either, but it happens every day. People should not eat too much, drive over the speed limit, or smoke either.
Yeah if you’re a damn moron lol
Did you say you put WAGO'S in the electrical panel to extend your home-run's...REALLY? Sorry, but I'm just not a big fan of WAGO'S. All the current for that entire circuit is going to have to flow through it...asking for trouble if you ask me., I'd use a red wire-nut.
You’re just not a believer yet. The Wago is a listed product and I’m 100% comfortable using them wherever.
@@electricalron Yes, wagos are great. I think they are much better than wire nuts IMO... And quicker!
WAGOs meet the same current ratings as wire nuts, and in some applications are rated higher. The only reason a person is against WAGO is a resistance to change.
Awe, a PVC riser? Come on man.
What do you use, 2.5” rigid and thread on site?
wear gloves when cutting mains
No.
Aside from satisfying one's narcissism there is no justification for the hundreds of vlogs on RUclips similar to this one (even in Jersey). An electrician is capable of doing it without instructions and a DIYer isn't allowed to do it with instructions??
Knock yourself out. You can do it yourself. It’s easy! Go for it!
@@electricalron While we're bragging; My biggest job was a 1600 Amp GFI main switch fed with 4, 500 MCM wires per phase. It in turn fed 33 services that included cell phone towers, restaurants, offices, and apartments. 60 years in the trade and I've been there and done that. I don't have to knock myself out on a residential 200 Amp service.
You should really do your due diligence and stop buying milwaukee
Why do you say that?!
@@electricalron because he likes shitty tools. He probably wants you to switch to China freight tools.
There is nothing wrong with Milwaukee. In fact, for the electrical industry it is probably the most prominent power tool brand. Even Craftsman and Dewalt that claim to be made in the USA, are more accurately assembled in the US using a lot of components manufactured in China and similar locales.