ETA: I did this "repair" about 4 times, and thought I was the worst solderer on the planet because you were showing to solder from the top. I finally watched another person's tutorial, and realized that the prongs need to go in through holes, and be soldered from the bottom. OY! Lol...still love the video, but you should have probably made that more clear for the dummies. ;) NOW it's working. Moral of the story: watch more than one person's tutorial before attempting repairs. OMG, I freakin' love the internet! I just completed this repair myself, and saved hundreds. THANK YOU!! One thing about my unit is that I couldn't take the circuit board inside because most of the connections are soldered. I just unscrewed the entire unit from the wall, and set it on a bucket in the pool pump room. (Disconnected the power supply first!) This repair is genius. I haven't soldered anything since high school jewelry class, but for about $30 dollars in supplies (new part, soldering kit and voltage detector), I have chlorine generating again. ♥
This post is now 6 years old......but it is still AWESOME!!!!!! SAVED US ABOUT $1800 FOR A WHOLE NEW SYSTEM, AND ABOUT $600 IF I JUST REPLACED THE CIRCUIT BOARD. THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!!
Wow 🤩 I am so happy for you 😁 Thanks a lot for the feedback I really appreciate it 🙏 there is no better to say thank you then subscribing to my channel 🙏😊🙏
So easy, great tutorial. Saved me big bucks!! Only suggestion would be to make sure the new part sits lower than the display screen on the board when replaced. Mine sat a little high and I had to bend it slightly to sit flush.
Thanks for this video. 16 years and this was the first problem with my salt generator. The only part of the video that drove me crazy was the glossing over of resetting/ recalibrating the salt level. Seems like you explained everything else, so why not that. But I found a video for that easy enough, and my salt reading was accurate, so I didn't even need to do that. Thank you for the super helpful video.
I bought a new control panel 7 years ago because it failed. I put the old one in the garage with the intent of throwing it out when I came across this repair. I think the diode cost maybe $8 back then, but it was an easy repair. Glad I came across this video so I can do the repair again, if necessary. I didn't book mark the old video.
Used this video to replace the whole mother board. It's as easy as this describes. Please note, if you are getting a new motherboard, you need to set it to the t-cell you are using to generate chlorine BEFORE you plug in the cell. Instructions on setting the t-cell are included with the board.
Hey Georgios, thank you so much for the feedback! if you want to say thanks, please SUB my channel and go watch a couple of my latest videos entirely, that will make us even haha (O: enjoy your pool!
Thank you for the video. I changed the limiter and power light came on and started generating salt. Had to buy a soldering iron and first time soldering but it worked.
Don’t beat yourself up over a solder job. I’ve been a welder for 42yrs, building ships and keeping an auto plant stitched together and making trucks, and I can’t solder well at all!
What happen when that part is broken? My dial the one to adjust more or less chlorine is very touchy and I think is the board but I want to fi south what the part in the video controls? If you can let me know would be great.
Awesome video!!! One quick question.....in the video the prongs on the new part look longer when it's in the bag then when you installed it...did you clip them down a bit to fit better?
excellent post BTW...I have a question regarding Hi Salt light staying on....if I replace the same item as you did in this video would it correct my Salt readings. My pool store claims my Salt levels are 3500ppm, mine shows 4100ppm and it shuts down the chlorine generation. thx
Are you sure that your salt cell isn't bad and your salt readings really aren't accurate at 4100? That would indeed shut down generation, and the only way to be sure is to take your water sample in and check.
@@dennisupah4786 My reading from my pool store are 3600ppm. Could this be the diode that is discussed in this video? I'm just trying to troubleshoot the issue....circuit board (diode) or salt cell ??? Thx for your help...much appreciated!!
Great video. Do you have any idea where to buy those 2 large electrolytic Capacitors? Everything I've found has been easy more expensive than they should be. Oh how I long for the days of Radio Shack.
I have the Hayward Goldline Control Chlorinator for many years. The board version is r1.40. It is only in the past week or so, once a while, there is a loud bang coming out of the box, the power to the pump momentarily turns off, then back on again. The default display on the digital panel is showing 1.2 instead of the salt level (not sure what the 1.2 means, but for all these years, it's always the salt level). I suspect the loud bang comes from the transformer, but the display leads me to think of the electronic board. Which component do you think I should replace first? Many thanks!!!
Have you looked inside the box yet? My first thought is that the loud bang is a capacitor exploding. I would look for evidence of burnt or blackened components and replace them.
@@josephblow6654 it was indeed the capacitor. Actually, after I took out the panel, I could see the capacitor simply fell off. That was 3 years ago, I don't know why I heard more than 1 bang ... I imagine, after it fell off, I should no longer hear any noise. Anyway, that was an inexpensive fix.
Thank you. I just ordered this part from mouser as they were back ordered at digikey. The fear of soldering was what has been holding me back. I guess I shouldn't be so nervous about it. How did you fix or adjust it??? Did it work ok?
My SWG shows like it is not generating salt or chlorine. Could this be the fix? The WG unit itself is working fine. Passed test. Or could it be the sensor?
Mine was claiming a low salt level ( 1700 ). Outside testing said I was at around 3400. I tried recalibrating several times and it always went back to 1700. When I pulled it apart the thermistor looked fine. I used a multimeter to test it. Thermistor read 1.7 ohms. When I put an ice cube on one side the reading dropped to zero, putting the ice cube on the other side and it went up. It should not have gone up. So I ordered a new thermistor and tested that prior to installation. Ice on both sides dropped the ohms. I soldered the new one in, hooked everything back up, and it started reading about 3400 on the salt. Simple easy fix and far better than spending $400 on a new board.
We keep getting a low salt and inspect cell solid light displayed. Also the salt level is not reading right. We cleaned the cell with the muric acid soak. Could this video fix our problem do you think? We don’t know what else to do. Thank you!
Had "Pool Guy" come to my house when mine shat. He told me that my house had been struck by lightning and at a minimum, the PCB needed replacing. 400 bucks. But he highly recommended replacing the entire box. 1200 dollars. "Well, it HAS been struck by lightning...." I smelled a rat and asked Mr Google. Found a guy who sold me a brand new PCB for like 70 bucks. That was ten years ago. It just failed so now I am looking for options to repair it. I may have a tech just solder a new thermistor onto the old board and see if it works. I've got a guy who works for peanuts. He just replaced a jillion little electrical bits on my old Marantz 2240 and Pioneer SX980 receivers.
I replaced that a year ago. I knew it was the problem bc it melted. Now I have power inside the box but it doesn’t work and no lights come on. Is there any way to test it to confirm that is the problem before going ahead and replacing it again? Thanks 06-26-2022
@@uselesstutorials1153 It is called the Thermistor, it adjusts the voltage going through it based on the temperature, if it fails, no power, and hence no function of some parts.
Not an expert but mine was hot as well. Probably the reason why the part get faulty so often! hope you have subscribe to my channel if this was helpful? thanks
Will that fix my problem? My problem is that no chlorine is being generated... Only the top two lights glow green, but they glow for 15 secs and then they stop... Searching for info on this problem is not easy... Thanks.
+David Blouin Hi David, as you can see in the video I am not an expert and I also spent a lot of time searching the information on this problem (that's why I took the time to make this tutorial!). I cannot guarantee it but I had pretty much the same symptoms with my system and its been going strong since I've change that little part. Good luck
+David Blouin did you get it fixed using the steps above in the video? Mine just started doing the same thing. It starts and the lights turn on and then you hear a "click" and the unit shuts off about 15 seconds later... It continues to do this as long as power is being supplied, but doesn't generate any chlorine...
I followed your instructions and it worked like a charm. The part supplier, Digi-Key, delivered the part to me in Maritimes, Canada in less than 48 hours. A glue gun was needed to add support to posts on the new Ametherm part.
@@gallardo360 Hi, did you find this answer? I am not sure if it is in the Salt Cell. If yes, does the Hayward cell tester test that? I also saw a reference to it being in flow switch. Thanks,
ETA: I did this "repair" about 4 times, and thought I was the worst solderer on the planet because you were showing to solder from the top. I finally watched another person's tutorial, and realized that the prongs need to go in through holes, and be soldered from the bottom. OY! Lol...still love the video, but you should have probably made that more clear for the dummies. ;) NOW it's working. Moral of the story: watch more than one person's tutorial before attempting repairs.
OMG, I freakin' love the internet! I just completed this repair myself, and saved hundreds. THANK YOU!! One thing about my unit is that I couldn't take the circuit board inside because most of the connections are soldered. I just unscrewed the entire unit from the wall, and set it on a bucket in the pool pump room. (Disconnected the power supply first!) This repair is genius. I haven't soldered anything since high school jewelry class, but for about $30 dollars in supplies (new part, soldering kit and voltage detector), I have chlorine generating again. ♥
Thank you so much for your feedback! There is one magic way to see thanks and its to Subscribe to my channel (O: Have a great day !
This post is now 6 years old......but it is still AWESOME!!!!!!
SAVED US ABOUT $1800 FOR A WHOLE NEW SYSTEM, AND ABOUT $600 IF I JUST REPLACED THE CIRCUIT BOARD.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!!
Wow 🤩 I am so happy for you 😁 Thanks a lot for the feedback I really appreciate it 🙏 there is no better to say thank you then subscribing to my channel 🙏😊🙏
Can you tell me the part number of the part that you ordered to fix this from digikey I can't seem to find any part numbers or the name of the part
So easy, great tutorial. Saved me big bucks!! Only suggestion would be to make sure the new part sits lower than the display screen on the board when replaced. Mine sat a little high and I had to bend it slightly to sit flush.
Thank you for your comment, I appreciate! Please subscribe to my channel, it will make my day (:
Quick and painless instruction. Great job, wish guides were all this simple.
Thanks for this video. 16 years and this was the first problem with my salt generator.
The only part of the video that drove me crazy was the glossing over of resetting/ recalibrating the salt level. Seems like you explained everything else, so why not that. But I found a video for that easy enough, and my salt reading was accurate, so I didn't even need to do that.
Thank you for the super helpful video.
Thank you very much for your comment! if you want to help, please subscribe to the channel, that would really help me 🙏😊🙏
Thank you for this video. Ordered the thermistor on Amazon ( $25 for 2). My soldering is likely worse than yours, but it is working.
Good guide for dummies. Since the circuit board is going to sit still in the box for a very long time, don't worry about that bad soldering.
+Dustin_Liu +1. Absolutely - great guide that made me feel confident I could change the whole printed circuit.
Thank you for your comment, I appreciate! Please subscribe to my channel, it will make my day (:
Thank you for your comment, I appreciate! Please subscribe to my channel, it will make my day (:
I bought a new control panel 7 years ago because it failed. I put the old one in the garage with the intent of throwing it out when I came across this repair. I think the diode cost maybe $8 back then, but it was an easy repair. Glad I came across this video so I can do the repair again, if necessary. I didn't book mark the old video.
Used this video to replace the whole mother board. It's as easy as this describes. Please note, if you are getting a new motherboard, you need to set it to the t-cell you are using to generate chlorine BEFORE you plug in the cell. Instructions on setting the t-cell are included with the board.
Thank you for your comment, I appreciate! Please subscribe to my channel, it will make my day (:
If you don't set it prior to plugging it in, you can unplug the cell and reset the board.
Really appreciate your video! It is very helpful! I followed every steps and fixed it. Saved hundreds bucks!
I am happy it help you (:
Me too +1
Not a useless at all THANK YOU very much I just fixed my aqua troll using your video !!!!! You saved me 700 dollars good job
Hey Georgios, thank you so much for the feedback! if you want to say thanks, please SUB my channel and go watch a couple of my latest videos entirely, that will make us even haha (O: enjoy your pool!
Thank you for the video. I changed the limiter and power light came on and started generating salt. Had to buy a soldering iron and first time soldering but it worked.
Thank you very much for your comment! if you want to help, please subscribe to the channel, that would really help me 🙏😊🙏
Yes, that was appalling soldering :). Thanks for posting this.
haha thank you very much! hope you have joined the channel?
Thanks for the tip. It worked great. And if it's any consolation, your soldering was better than mine!
haha thanks for your comment 😊 hope you have subscribe? it mean a lot to me 🙏😊
Thank you! Just did this repair, and worked perfect! Saved some $$$
Hey Thank you so much for your comment 😊 hope you have joined the channel? it means a lot to me 😊🙏😊
It worked!! Thanks for sharing!! It saved me lots of money.
Great! thanks for the feedback, I appreciate (:
Thank you for this video! Been having issues with my pool for a while and this simple fix worked. Much appreciated!!
Thank you very much for your comment! if you want to help, please subscribe to the channel, that would really help me 🙏😊🙏
This is a great video. Quick and to the point. Thanks.
Thank you, hope you have joined the channel 😊🙏
Hello friend,
I really enjoy watching your playlist. I'm learning new things. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day.
Thank you Jacqueline for your support (O:
Don’t beat yourself up over a solder job. I’ve been a welder for 42yrs, building ships and keeping an auto plant stitched together and making trucks, and I can’t solder well at all!
This could not be any more Awesome!! Thank you very much!!!
Thank you for your comment, I appreciate! Please subscribe to my channel, it will make my day (:
What happen when that part is broken? My dial the one to adjust more or less chlorine is very touchy and I think is the board but I want to fi south what the part in the video controls? If you can let me know would be great.
Works perfect ! for Hamilton/ Burlington Ontario people the part is available for pick up at sayal electronics in Burlington
Thanks Dave for the feedback, I appreciate! if you want to say thanks? please like this video and THANK YOU to subscribed to my channel 😊
wow!!! you are extremely handy👀 AMAZING!!! savings of four hundred🔥🔥🔥
no skip the before and afters😇🙏🏽EVER!!!!!!!
Thank you, that was my first video on my channel, actually the reason why I have created the channel ⭐️🤘⭐️
Thank you Bigg Dogg, Greatly appreciated...
May I have your permission to add this short video to our website? Very humorous take on the problem.
Hello Dan, sure feel free to add it to your website.
Didn’t believe it was going to work but it did thank you!!
Hey, thanks a lot for the feedback, hope you have subscribed 🙏
My soldering job was much worse than yours, but hey, I fixed it and it's still going strong 4 years later.
🤣🤣 thank you very much for your feedback! ! hope you have joined the family 😊🙏😊
Awesome video!!! One quick question.....in the video the prongs on the new part look longer when it's in the bag then when you installed it...did you clip them down a bit to fit better?
Yes I did cut it a little, Thank you for your comment, I appreciate! Please subscribe to my channel, it will make my day (:
excellent post BTW...I have a question regarding Hi Salt light staying on....if I replace the same item as you did in this video would it correct my Salt readings. My pool store claims my Salt levels are 3500ppm, mine shows 4100ppm and it shuts down the chlorine generation. thx
Are you sure that your salt cell isn't bad and your salt readings really aren't accurate at 4100? That would indeed shut down generation, and the only way to be sure is to take your water sample in and check.
@@dennisupah4786 My reading from my pool store are 3600ppm. Could this be the diode that is discussed in this video? I'm just trying to troubleshoot the issue....circuit board (diode) or salt cell ??? Thx for your help...much appreciated!!
Yes, this is what I would first: double check the salt level!
Thank you for your comment, I appreciate! Please subscribe to my channel, it will make my day (:
Great video. Do you have any idea where to buy those 2 large electrolytic Capacitors? Everything I've found has been easy more expensive than they should be. Oh how I long for the days of Radio Shack.
Great video, hard to read the part number if you can post
Digi-Key part number 570-1105-ND , hope that help?
I know this is a super old post, but just wanted to pop in and say thank you for saving this novice $500. Your good work lives on!
Thanks a lot for the comment!
I have the Hayward Goldline Control Chlorinator for many years. The board version is r1.40. It is only in the past week or so, once a while, there is a loud bang coming out of the box, the power to the pump momentarily turns off, then back on again. The default display on the digital panel is showing 1.2 instead of the salt level (not sure what the 1.2 means, but for all these years, it's always the salt level). I suspect the loud bang comes from the transformer, but the display leads me to think of the electronic board. Which component do you think I should replace first? Many thanks!!!
Thank you for your comment. Sadly I am not expert enough to answer your question. Please subscribe to my channel, it will make my day (:
Have you looked inside the box yet? My first thought is that the loud bang is a capacitor exploding. I would look for evidence of burnt or blackened components and replace them.
@@josephblow6654 it was indeed the capacitor. Actually, after I took out the panel, I could see the capacitor simply fell off. That was 3 years ago, I don't know why I heard more than 1 bang ... I imagine, after it fell off, I should no longer hear any noise. Anyway, that was an inexpensive fix.
Thank you. I just ordered this part from mouser as they were back ordered at digikey. The fear of soldering was what has been holding me back. I guess I shouldn't be so nervous about it. How did you fix or adjust it??? Did it work ok?
Yes it doit work A1
My SWG shows like it is not generating salt or chlorine. Could this be the fix? The WG unit itself is working fine. Passed test. Or could it be the sensor?
Thank you for your comment, I appreciate! Please subscribe to my channel, it will make my day (:
My unit showed 'no flow' on the display and this fix worked.
Great clear video. Saved me a bunch. Thanks
thank you for your kind comment, hope you have subscribe!
Thanks. Do you have one for setting the salt # on aqua rite?
Joel Fink sadly not but you will find some great tutorials on that one RUclips , good luck to you 🙏
So what was the original issue?
Mine was claiming a low salt level ( 1700 ). Outside testing said I was at around 3400. I tried recalibrating several times and it always went back to 1700. When I pulled it apart the thermistor looked fine. I used a multimeter to test it. Thermistor read 1.7 ohms. When I put an ice cube on one side the reading dropped to zero, putting the ice cube on the other side and it went up. It should not have gone up. So I ordered a new thermistor and tested that prior to installation. Ice on both sides dropped the ohms. I soldered the new one in, hooked everything back up, and it started reading about 3400 on the salt. Simple easy fix and far better than spending $400 on a new board.
We keep getting a low salt and inspect cell solid light displayed. Also the salt level is not reading right. We cleaned the cell with the muric acid soak. Could this video fix our problem do you think? We don’t know what else to do. Thank you!
Hello, Thank you for reaching out! I don’t think this procedure can fix your problem 🤔 hopefully someone else will answer and help you 😊🙏😊
Did you get the problem fixed? Having the same issue. Would love to know what was wrong.
Thanks 🙏🏻
Had "Pool Guy" come to my house when mine shat. He told me that my house had been struck by lightning and at a minimum, the PCB needed replacing. 400 bucks. But he highly recommended replacing the entire box. 1200 dollars. "Well, it HAS been struck by lightning...."
I smelled a rat and asked Mr Google. Found a guy who sold me a brand new PCB for like 70 bucks. That was ten years ago. It just failed so now I am looking for options to repair it. I may have a tech just solder a new thermistor onto the old board and see if it works. I've got a guy who works for peanuts. He just replaced a jillion little electrical bits on my old Marantz 2240 and Pioneer SX980 receivers.
Hey thanks a lot, hope you have join the channel? 🙏
where did you buy the diode ?
+Travis Fleming Hi bought it at Digikey.com, good luck!
@@uselesstutorials1153 can you tell me the name of the part or the part number?
Try this one!
Please see if the real time shows you!
Joe
yes thank you Joe ☝️
Useless Tutorials I always watch in real time and give watch time 100 percent
Not sure why but RUclips sometimes doesn’t record it.
:)
I replaced that a year ago. I knew it was the problem bc it melted. Now I have power inside the box but it doesn’t work and no lights come on. Is there any way to test it to confirm that is the problem before going ahead and replacing it again? Thanks 06-26-2022
Thank you very much for your comment! if you want to help, please subscribe to the channel, that would really help me 🙏😊🙏
What is part? A current limiter? Can you post a link?
All specs are in the video, thank you
link for part please.
Thanks
Its in the middle of the video, just pause it and you should be good to go! hope you have subscribed? thanks
funny and informative win win!
You should update your prices. The thermistor now costs $15.
Thanks a lot! hope you have joined the channel?
I guess that is the fuse
Yes something like that!
@@uselesstutorials1153 It is called the Thermistor, it adjusts the voltage going through it based on the temperature, if it fails, no power, and hence no function of some parts.
Narration by Stephen Hawking.
Hello I am writing from Sicily. I have a problem with my HAYWARD AQUARITE PRO. How can I contact you?
Thank you for everything. It worked, I can't thank you enough.
Thank you for your comment, I appreciate! Please subscribe to my channel, it will make my day (:
I have changed the part (Limiter) per video. I noticed after a min or so became hot. Is that normal? Thanks.
Not an expert but mine was hot as well. Probably the reason why the part get faulty so often! hope you have subscribe to my channel if this was helpful? thanks
Will that fix my problem? My problem is that no chlorine is being generated... Only the top two lights glow green, but they glow for 15 secs and then they stop... Searching for info on this problem is not easy... Thanks.
+David Blouin Hi David, as you can see in the video I am not an expert and I also spent a lot of time searching the information on this problem (that's why I took the time to make this tutorial!). I cannot guarantee it but I had pretty much the same symptoms with my system and its been going strong since I've change that little part. Good luck
+David Blouin
did you get it fixed using the steps above in the video? Mine just started doing the same thing. It starts and the lights turn on and then you hear a "click" and the unit shuts off about 15 seconds later... It continues to do this as long as power is being supplied, but doesn't generate any chlorine...
Yes thats exactly how I fix it, very easy, bonne chance!
And 3 years later, you showed me 2 things. How to fix it, and that someone is worse than I am at Soldering. Thanks!!!
Haha 🤣 thanks a lot for the feedback and glad it fixed your problem 🤘 hope you have subscribe? it means a lot to me 😊🙏
I followed your instructions and it worked like a charm. The part supplier, Digi-Key, delivered the part to me in Maritimes, Canada in less than 48 hours. A glue gun was needed to add support to posts on the new Ametherm part.
Thanks for the message, I am happy it help!
Worked like a champ,I am not the best at soldering but worth trying before replacing board
Wow! I am happy it worked for you toi 😁 really hope you have subscribed to my channel ?😊🙏😊
2021 and this worked for the pool system I have in New house. The old part had completely separated into two pieces.
Thank you very much for the feedback! hope you have joined the channel?
What were the symptoms before you fixed it. That part fails pretty often.
Thank you very much for your comment! if you want to help, please subscribe to the channel, that would really help me 🙏😊🙏
it fixed my machine , thx for the video.
Hey! thank you very much for your feedback! hope you have join the channel? 😊🙏😊
what actually reads the salt levels or ppm
Hello, I don’t really understand your question 🤔
What tells the controls parts per million, salt level, what does that
@@gallardo360 Hi, did you find this answer? I am not sure if it is in the Salt Cell. If yes, does the Hayward cell tester test that? I also saw a reference to it being in flow switch. Thanks,