Nice work Tom. That sure is a different way to lock the morse taper. My 1906 Garvin mill has a draw bar. I'm happy it does now. You have a cool old mill.
I made d shaped slugs to spacer the slot so I could make it work on my boring mill with the setback taper. This is an advantage to the other style draw key you showed that is like the one I showed making. The centered pusher with the wedge under it allows it to push the tool back into the bore still despite the slot not being deep enough for the key to wedge in from the side.
G'day Tom. Very nice build, & it fitted very well. Lot of food for thought. I was waiting for a quick demo, but ... maybe next time. Excellent job. Thanks Ted
Cool quick build, wish I had a need for one, I'd love a little boring mill. Ideally you'd want the key installed the other direction with the sliding lock towards narrow end of the taper to provides better retention of the taper.
Good one Tom . I just checked my one , will send you a photo . I think their may be a bit of variation in that slot position as my one goes past further , but the taper is not really that worn . Something we will have to check on . Cheers 👍
My taper is pretty worn. Looking at it some more the tangs on tooling seem to bottom out. Ideally the fix would be to fix the spindle. I wonder how much work is involved in removing it?
Nice build Tom, I'm wondering if you could make a couple filler block pieces. the spindle side would need a funky offset like a C or U shape and of course a new wedge tool. Might be quicker than regrinding all that tooling. Not an easy nut to crack. See you on the next one....
It does present some challenges. Not sure what is the best route. Ideally the spindle bore should be enlarged and then sleeved and a new taper cut into it. Not sure if I want to tackle that as of yet.
Nice work. You may have trouble if that is a stainless screw with it welding or galling. And you may find the E clip is not strong enough to break the wedge lock. I hope I am mistaken, but just what I see. -----Doozer
I'm not a machinist and I don't play one on the internet.... but: The wear in the spindle nose that resulted in the tool seating deeper into the spindle taper cannot be fixed by extending the slot in the tool shank outward. The wedge force intended to resist tool withdrawal forces is exerted between the front edge of the spindle slot and the rear end of the slot in the tool shank. That rear end is displaced behind the spindle slot opening by the same distance as the front end is protruding due to the wear. It seems as if the wedge action if the tool slot is extended would actually force the tool out of the spindle the same way the removal wedge works.
Nice surface grinder action Tom. I learnt stuff again. Thanks.
Thanks Paul. I have some good info on surface grinding I will send you.
Nice work on a rare homemade tool build. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum last week 😎
A very interesting locking mechanism Tom. I learn something new every day. Thanks for sharing. Cheers Nobby
Thanks Nobby.
Nice work Tom. That sure is a different way to lock the morse taper. My 1906 Garvin mill has a draw bar. I'm happy it does now. You have a cool old mill.
Thanks Randy. A draw bar would be nice, but I guess it was easier to make it a Morse Taper back then.
Great job Tom,
i've never had to use one of those,
see you both next time
atb
Kev
I appreciate it.
I made d shaped slugs to spacer the slot so I could make it work on my boring mill with the setback taper. This is an advantage to the other style draw key you showed that is like the one I showed making. The centered pusher with the wedge under it allows it to push the tool back into the bore still despite the slot not being deep enough for the key to wedge in from the side.
I've never seen a key like that one. Very interesting, Tom.
I guess there are several different renditions of it. I found this on one PM if I remember correctly.
G'day Tom. Very nice build, & it fitted very well. Lot of food for thought. I was waiting for a quick demo, but ... maybe next time.
Excellent job. Thanks
Ted
Thanks Ted. Hopefully I can show it in use in the near future.
Nice job on the locking mechanism Tom
Thanks Al!
Interesting project Tom. Cheers Tony
Hey there Tony. 👍
Great job Tom. That will do the job. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Todd.
Great project - top shelf execution also. 👍
Thanks Stuart.
Cool quick build, wish I had a need for one, I'd love a little boring mill. Ideally you'd want the key installed the other direction with the sliding lock towards narrow end of the taper to provides better retention of the taper.
Nice job, this is on my list in the near future
Thanks Adam. I have had to modify it twice, but I have it working good now.
very good job friend Tom
Thanks as always my friend Michel.
Nice job Tom, thanks for sharing
Thanks Dave.
G'day Tom. I've never seen a taper lock key before. Bloody good idea though. Oh, I really like that surface grinder of yours too mate. Cheers, Aaron.
Thanks bud! That Harig surface grinder is sweet. I need to use it more.
Interesting! Thanks for sharing 👍
Yes sir! Thanks for watching Craig.
Great job mate
Thank you Matty.
Great job thanks for sharing Tom
Thanks for watching!
Howdy Tom, looking good buddy, I didn't know what a taper lock was mate lol, nice seat of the pants engineering there, hope ya'll keeping well
Thanks Ralfy. Hopefully it is going to work out. Remember safety third. 😂
@@hilltopmachineworks2131Always buddy 😂
Good job tom
Thanks Trevor.
Good one Tom . I just checked my one , will send you a photo . I think their may be a bit of variation in that slot position as my one goes past further , but the taper is not really that worn . Something we will have to check on . Cheers 👍
My taper is pretty worn. Looking at it some more the tangs on tooling seem to bottom out. Ideally the fix would be to fix the spindle. I wonder how much work is involved in removing it?
Nice build Tom,
I'm wondering if you could make a couple filler block pieces. the spindle side would need a funky offset like a C or U shape and of course a new wedge tool.
Might be quicker than regrinding all that tooling.
Not an easy nut to crack.
See you on the next one....
It does present some challenges. Not sure what is the best route. Ideally the spindle bore should be enlarged and then sleeved and a new taper cut into it. Not sure if I want to tackle that as of yet.
Tom - You put another one behind you . --- Jim
Watching this again, it is one of this weeks projects hopefully, has yours been working well
Hey Adam. I had to remake the sliding part again much larger. It works well now and locks in just right after some trial and error.
@ did you make it taller or longer
@@smalltownmachineshop6860 Taller so it would lock in sooner as it was pulled in.
Nice work. You may have trouble if that is a stainless screw with it welding or galling. And you may find the E clip is not strong enough to break the wedge lock. I hope I am mistaken, but just what I see. -----Doozer
It is stainless. That is all I had in that length and size. I did put a drop of anti-seize on it.
good job Tom. Funny how projects breed projects. LOL
Thanks Randy. Ain't that the truth.
Very nice.
I appreciate it.
I'm not a machinist and I don't play one on the internet.... but: The wear in the spindle nose that resulted in the tool seating deeper into the spindle taper cannot be fixed by extending the slot in the tool shank outward. The wedge force intended to resist tool withdrawal forces is exerted between the front edge of the spindle slot and the rear end of the slot in the tool shank. That rear end is displaced behind the spindle slot opening by the same distance as the front end is protruding due to the wear. It seems as if the wedge action if the tool slot is extended would actually force the tool out of the spindle the same way the removal wedge works.
And now you build the other one, so you can find out which one works best.
Yep once I get some time.
First😂