DIY top down shingles
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Install shingles starting at top-good idea or not?
Follow up: The next season I shingled another roof. This time I used the conventional bottom up approach on the small areas and used the top/down method on large areas. All went well.
I really like your straightforward candid comments great video thank you very much
Well, geezerguy, your's is the only video I could find on a method I have been using for decades here in Maine.
While most of the roofs I have done were gable-end ones it works with hip and valley and Mansard as well.
Your caution of measuring precisely is important, the process is not all that difficult for anyone competent enough to do a roof in the first place.
Although you showed only one surface being done, the process is to install ridge caps and hip caps while the staging is up, so both (all) sides are shingled and then capped so the roof at the top is waterproof and staging removed thus NOT stepped on again. I feel this adds 10-15 years to the life of a roof. Quite a difference !!
Can't believe no-one else has commented on a system that should be standard practice for roofing and re-roofing.
Cheers and thanks.
I use this method on my roofing as well.
I'm not a contractor, but I have re-roofed my own house (12 square) and garage (10 square) with this method.
It allows me to work by myself without exposing the entire roof to the unpredictable Maine weather as stated by another poster.
The finished product is exactly the same installation. The only difference is the order in which it is installed.
Getting paid by the hour 🙌
this method is quicker and cleaner if done right
Or doing a 12/12 with 25' eaves.
It's great to see others who have found this method valuable! One of Fine Homebuilding's most trusted authors, RI builder Mike Guertin, uses the top down technique all the time, and he documented it a few years back on our website: www.finehomebuilding.com/2016/10/17/upside-down-roofing
I have stumbled upon your videos and appreciate them so much, I'm disappointed there aren't more. You strike me as someone who regularly DIYs. Please consider videotaping future projects. Even small projects are teachable opportunities.
Your voice is pleasantly modulated and directions methodical, were you a teacher before retirement? Perhaps a math teacher?
What was the material to cover the loose row for rain ? Does it cover to old shingle row below?
I watched your video and while there may be a couple small advantages to this style I think it is a style that I would NEVER use! Quite frankly there's no way in hell I would do a roof that way!!!!
How do you do your layout so that you end up with a full (instead of partial) row of shingles at the bottom? When you do the conventional bottom up method, you start at the bottom with a row of full shingles with a 5 inch +_ exposure and work up the roof with as many rows as necessary. With the top down method, how do you make sure that you get the same result (or do you necessarily get the same result)?
How I do it:
measure distance up roof slope
divide by exposure (5" for instance)
round off to whole number, equals number of rows
divide distance by number of rows, equals actual exposure (5.1 for example)
decide how many rows I want to work on at any one time, 12 is good
record location of each band (example 12x5.1, 24x5.1, 36x5.1....)
add shingle width to each figure, this is where top of rows will be
I mark all these measurements on each end of roof and start in a screw
strip back old shingles to line between top screws but not below
using top screws. snap chalk line, this is upper edge of first row
as I work up rows I check multiples of exposure occasionally to keep straight
If I've stripped old work correctly, roof will be rain tight when I quit for the day
written out it looks harder than it really is
Thank you. This is helpful. I am about to start my roof.
@@danielganfield7520 USE THE BOTTOM UP METHOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1