Hey there! You've done a truly amazing job here. It blows my mind how much work you've put into this thing. I noticed the comment about how, "For some reason the GPStar kit cools down instantly once you let off the trigger which isn't authentic." For reference, the reason why we do this is because there is no visual indicator on the HasLab Pack or Hasbro Wand which would give the user feedback to their current heat level. If there is no way to let a person know what their heat level is, then it's not really "fair" for playability reasons to build it up the way it does in the game. So instead it works the way it does on the Hasbro wand and only builds heat while firing. That said, we do support Quick Vent already to get closer to how the video game lets you manually vent, so it's not like changing that functionality is impossible. If there were some way of providing feedback to the user of their heat status I'd honestly love to try my hand at implementing a "heat system" in the GPStar code. Great work again, and looking forward to more updates!
Thank you so much! Yes I suppose that makes sense I think it might still be a good idea to implement a slight delay before reset so that if you accidentally let off the trigger it doesn't go back to zero if you were trying to get it to vent I'll definitely have to post updates as far as making a bargraph animation that keeps track of heat and overheat tracking in general You are the first person who has reached out to me as far as coding goes from the original gp star project I tried a few times to get in touch through the contact email on the gp star website and I think I wasn't taken seriously or maybe there is just someone else answering questions on the website that didn't want to provide anything further as far as people who could help from the original project I would really love to talk with someone who has worked on the project and could provide more insight on the current functionality since I was not part of the original design team when this has kept having updates I was kinda thrust into the middle of a huge 7000+ line code without much knowledge on how and why it got that big I think currently my code even though it mostly functions comes off more as a hack since it wasn't designed in the same way and I implemented other methods of getting things to work which might not be as smooth as the original designs I would love to help contribute things to the project and I would really appreciate if anyone from the original project could just sorta go over some things and how they operate so I can smooth my code out more Thank you in advance
That’s totally insane. Great work man. I dare not delve into what goes into the wiring but I’m curious what type of fan you used for the smoke effect? I just bought a bunch of various induction computer fans off of aliexpress and I plan on adding the feature to my haslab and multiple trap models. Just curious if I’m barking up the right tree to get a similar type of smoke expulsion
I could definitely make a video on the subject if you are interested I am assuming you have a upgraded pcb? The original board wont support smoke If you go to the gpstar github they have info on what components to use for adding smoke as well as a replacement stl file for the n filter I will see if I can make a video though as I think it would be beneficial for lots of people
@@kadensreviews I don’t I just have a number of rechargeable vapes, batteries and buttons and I was planning to run it independently. I’m not electronically inclined enough to program and hard wire things into a large prop I don’t want to destroy. I’ve done a lot of modifications to my pack but only cosmetic. Weathering, greeblee adding, custom part 3d modeling, and printing. But I don’t have a lot of experience with electronic fans so I don’t know what it takes to get the right look
@jbischof71 ah I see My method might not be super ideal for your application I can still make a video and you can take bits and pieces of info to do what you need It would require drilling holes in the bottom of the slot where the n filter is and then mine is running two different vapes from a 10amp 5v reducer The video should help have things make some more sense It might be extremely difficult to do though if you aren't planning on soldering or modifying stuff
@@kadensreviews yea I plan on keeping the electronics stock and running any additions off of a secondary power source and switch, but I’m interested in how to wire all the additional components to achieve the effect and how to mount them in the pack to have them tucked away but also accessible to refill. I also fully intend on drilling n filter holes.
@jbischof71 well it might be a bit tricky On mine and other projects I have seen with smoke we removed the giant d cell battery holder and the vapes are located directly behind so we can refill them by taking off the battery hatch Im not really sure where would work to put them while keeping the original electronics
I don't think I've ever ever ever ever seen anything even remotely as accurate to the video game as this. Absolutely fantastic! Where does one even begin when building just a regular old 84 style pack? Looking into building one for myself and I'm curious as to where you think a good starting point might be.
Thank you so much! It depends on your crafting abilities If you are wanting a pre made shell or to 3d print from scratch You could probably get a spirit full size pack and then mod it a bunch (Cheapest non 3d print route ) Or you could buy a pre made 3d printed shell (It might be more accurate and neat to make but wouldn't require you specifically owning a 3d printer ) 3d printing it yourself would be cheapest and you would have the most customizability The Q-pack project has had multiple revisions and is the most accurate 3d printable pack that I know of You would just have to figure out how to build it or buy their instruction manual (The files themselves are free And then lastly is lighting I personally love being able to customize and program everything But it would probably be cheaper to a get a gb fans light kit or a ninja tunes kit They are more simple and straightforward Or the one I used was gp star
Hopefully that helps a bit In the future I might possibly be open to writing more custom alternative software for the gp star board if anyone has specific needs for their project Its definitely a very neat resiliant board to work with
@Salt-king-guy I use a variety of leds I bought mine on ebay and amazon Just look for pixel leds Ws2812b is the main type of led I used And as far as additional leds in the program You need arduino ide first off so that you can look at the code and make changes I could probably send you a older version of my code and if you wire it the same everything should work Basically with pixels they need power and data Power can be easily spliced from any leds or using one of the plugs You need 5v and ground if you go with ws2812b There are also 12v options that may save power in the long run but I haven't used those Then you need to steal a pin or two from both boards On the wand side I used A0 which was for the hasbro bargraph since I put in the 28 segment display this is no longer needed and I just edited what the pin is used for in arduino ide and told it to output the TVG powercells and other lights for the wand Same thing for pack except I stole a few pins that used to be used for the standard hardwire inner cyclotron display lights Since I came up with the pixel inner display and it actually became a main upgrade it should be pretty easy to use those pins As far as code I really want my pack to be fully ready by halloween and I have sorta been waiting on the gp star team to come out with version 6 so I can tack my code on Its a bit difficult sometimes to actually add everything needed for my code every firmware release And unfortunately in later versions of their code they tweaked how the powercell works and now my sync code for wand powercell is broken and looks bad I am working to see if this can be fixed And the gp star team said they were working on adding some stuff into the wand code so that I can pull it off again But I haven't heard anything I basically just need to start editing again and I haven't gotten around to it yet
I also did a GPStar TVG pack. Mine is a 3d printed q-based pack. I don't have time to watch till this evening but I am excited to see how you approached it. @nomakewan I wouldn't mind talking to you about potential code updates as well.
@@kadensreviews you're doing a great job, before long you will have all the servos for the statis stream and cyclo lights popping out, even silly string for the slime teather
@kadensreviews ok so I used to do the same shit and open stuff up with my nails now I'm 42 my nails gotten weak because of age & one time it broke off completely & took 3 months to grow back lol
The lighting is no joke, it's such a good job! I can't wait to see how the finished product looks like!
Thank you!
You are one amazingly talented guy. It blows my mind you you can accomplish. The mind can do anything. Keep it going. So very Impressed.
This is really amazing. You should really be proud of this. You are very talented.
@@made1981 I am
I hope I can continue improving
Hey there! You've done a truly amazing job here. It blows my mind how much work you've put into this thing.
I noticed the comment about how, "For some reason the GPStar kit cools down instantly once you let off the trigger which isn't authentic." For reference, the reason why we do this is because there is no visual indicator on the HasLab Pack or Hasbro Wand which would give the user feedback to their current heat level. If there is no way to let a person know what their heat level is, then it's not really "fair" for playability reasons to build it up the way it does in the game. So instead it works the way it does on the Hasbro wand and only builds heat while firing.
That said, we do support Quick Vent already to get closer to how the video game lets you manually vent, so it's not like changing that functionality is impossible. If there were some way of providing feedback to the user of their heat status I'd honestly love to try my hand at implementing a "heat system" in the GPStar code.
Great work again, and looking forward to more updates!
Thank you so much!
Yes I suppose that makes sense
I think it might still be a good idea to implement a slight delay before reset so that if you accidentally let off the trigger it doesn't go back to zero if you were trying to get it to vent
I'll definitely have to post updates as far as making a bargraph animation that keeps track of heat and overheat tracking in general
You are the first person who has reached out to me as far as coding goes from the original gp star project
I tried a few times to get in touch through the contact email on the gp star website and I think I wasn't taken seriously or maybe there is just someone else answering questions on the website that didn't want to provide anything further as far as people who could help from the original project
I would really love to talk with someone who has worked on the project and could provide more insight on the current functionality
since I was not part of the original design team when this has kept having updates I was kinda thrust into the middle of a huge 7000+ line code without much knowledge on how and why it got that big
I think currently my code even though it mostly functions comes off more as a hack since it wasn't designed in the same way and I implemented other methods of getting things to work which might not be as smooth as the original designs
I would love to help contribute things to the project and I would really appreciate if anyone from the original project could just sorta go over some things and how they operate so I can smooth my code out more
Thank you in advance
I made my own custom slime wand blower 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 yours looks good also 👍🏻👍🏻
You work so hard i love you
Thank you lovie
That’s totally insane. Great work man. I dare not delve into what goes into the wiring but I’m curious what type of fan you used for the smoke effect? I just bought a bunch of various induction computer fans off of aliexpress and I plan on adding the feature to my haslab and multiple trap models. Just curious if I’m barking up the right tree to get a similar type of smoke expulsion
I could definitely make a video on the subject if you are interested
I am assuming you have a upgraded pcb?
The original board wont support smoke
If you go to the gpstar github they have info on what components to use for adding smoke as well as a replacement stl file for the n filter
I will see if I can make a video though as I think it would be beneficial for lots of people
@@kadensreviews I don’t I just have a number of rechargeable vapes, batteries and buttons and I was planning to run it independently. I’m not electronically inclined enough to program and hard wire things into a large prop I don’t want to destroy. I’ve done a lot of modifications to my pack but only cosmetic. Weathering, greeblee adding, custom part 3d modeling, and printing. But I don’t have a lot of experience with electronic fans so I don’t know what it takes to get the right look
@jbischof71 ah I see
My method might not be super ideal for your application I can still make a video and you can take bits and pieces of info to do what you need
It would require drilling holes in the bottom of the slot where the n filter is and then mine is running two different vapes from a 10amp 5v reducer
The video should help have things make some more sense
It might be extremely difficult to do though if you aren't planning on soldering or modifying stuff
@@kadensreviews yea I plan on keeping the electronics stock and running any additions off of a secondary power source and switch, but I’m interested in how to wire all the additional components to achieve the effect and how to mount them in the pack to have them tucked away but also accessible to refill. I also fully intend on drilling n filter holes.
@jbischof71 well it might be a bit tricky
On mine and other projects I have seen with smoke we removed the giant d cell battery holder and the vapes are located directly behind so we can refill them by taking off the battery hatch
Im not really sure where would work to put them while keeping the original electronics
Amazing! How awesome!!! Great work
Very glad you like it!
I don't think I've ever ever ever ever seen anything even remotely as accurate to the video game as this. Absolutely fantastic!
Where does one even begin when building just a regular old 84 style pack? Looking into building one for myself and I'm curious as to where you think a good starting point might be.
Thank you so much!
It depends on your crafting abilities
If you are wanting a pre made shell or to 3d print from scratch
You could probably get a spirit full size pack and then mod it a bunch
(Cheapest non 3d print route )
Or you could buy a pre made 3d printed shell
(It might be more accurate and neat to make but wouldn't require you specifically owning a 3d printer )
3d printing it yourself would be cheapest and you would have the most customizability
The Q-pack project has had multiple revisions and is the most accurate 3d printable pack that I know of
You would just have to figure out how to build it or buy their instruction manual
(The files themselves are free
And then lastly is lighting
I personally love being able to customize and program everything
But it would probably be cheaper to a get a gb fans light kit or a ninja tunes kit
They are more simple and straightforward
Or the one I used was gp star
Hopefully that helps a bit
In the future I might possibly be open to writing more custom alternative software for the gp star board if anyone has specific needs for their project
Its definitely a very neat resiliant board to work with
Whered you get the leds from and how do i program added leds with both the wand and the pack
@Salt-king-guy I use a variety of leds
I bought mine on ebay and amazon
Just look for pixel leds
Ws2812b is the main type of led I used
And as far as additional leds in the program
You need arduino ide first off so that you can look at the code and make changes
I could probably send you a older version of my code and if you wire it the same everything should work
Basically with pixels they need power and data
Power can be easily spliced from any leds or using one of the plugs
You need 5v and ground if you go with ws2812b
There are also 12v options that may save power in the long run but I haven't used those
Then you need to steal a pin or two from both boards
On the wand side I used A0 which was for the hasbro bargraph since I put in the 28 segment display this is no longer needed and I just edited what the pin is used for in arduino ide and told it to output the TVG powercells and other lights for the wand
Same thing for pack except I stole a few pins that used to be used for the standard hardwire inner cyclotron display lights
Since I came up with the pixel inner display and it actually became a main upgrade it should be pretty easy to use those pins
As far as code I really want my pack to be fully ready by halloween and I have sorta been waiting on the gp star team to come out with version 6 so I can tack my code on
Its a bit difficult sometimes to actually add everything needed for my code every firmware release
And unfortunately in later versions of their code they tweaked how the powercell works and now my sync code for wand powercell is broken and looks bad
I am working to see if this can be fixed
And the gp star team said they were working on adding some stuff into the wand code so that I can pull it off again
But I haven't heard anything
I basically just need to start editing again and I haven't gotten around to it yet
Ok thx
a-MAZING!
Thank you!
Also I really appreciate all your videos you have made on installation
It must take hours and hours to film and edit
When you remove the ppd how does it make that alarm sound also how do i make it removable
@@Ireallydontknowhattonamemyself ruclips.net/video/yh-q59RrLp0/видео.htmlsi=3Z6xZ8WlL_NH625H
Link to a more recent update on the project ruclips.net/video/lavsjqLXFrM/видео.html
I also did a GPStar TVG pack. Mine is a 3d printed q-based pack. I don't have time to watch till this evening but I am excited to see how you approached it. @nomakewan I wouldn't mind talking to you about potential code updates as well.
Nice!
Potentially in the future I will make a full 3d printed pack
What v hook have u used on the pack?
Unfortunately I don't know the brand
I can try and see, but they were pieces I already had laying around
and here im worried about simple plug and play working and this dude over here writing code
@brianwestmoreland3836 yep
Its a bit overwhelming sometimes
@@kadensreviews you're doing a great job, before long you will have all the servos for the statis stream and cyclo lights popping out, even silly string for the slime teather
@@brianwestmoreland3836 maybe if I fully 3d print a pack I will do that
This is ghostbusters meets gay pride.
Bro bro , take a break and cut those finger nails.. They lookn kinda long 😅.. but good job.😊🎉
@SOLIDJEFFROW thanks
I use the nails to open stuff lol
Sometimes I do forget to trim though
@kadensreviews ok so I used to do the same shit and open stuff up with my nails now I'm 42 my nails gotten weak because of age & one time it broke off completely & took 3 months to grow back lol
@SOLIDJEFFROW eesh thats painful