Hey Troy I use a Kahler trem myself. I thought I saw one of your guitars with one on in a previous video. Would be great to see a video for restringing one of them. Even though they're alot simpler.
Good point. In a pinch, that can make it easier... However, if you haven't changed the strings for months, cleaning is essential IMO. Especially the fretboard!
Well, there are better systems out there. The Kahler floating trem is superior IMO in many respects. No need to cut off the ball ends and use allen key to tighten there, plus the bridge doesn't float so easily as to make tuning such a nightmare. And there are several finger tightened lock nut systems that do away with the hassle factor of needing an allen key there. That's what I have on my Jackson... floating trem with no allen keys required. (Ever try restringing in a dark dressing room? Floyd makes that a nearly impossible task! Don't drop your allen key!)
@@TroyStetinaMusic Fernandes guitars also had a FR-style bridge (Headcrasher) in the 80s that didn't involve Allen keys or cutting off ball ends when you changed strings. I've still got one actually. :)
Hi Troy, I'm working through your metal lead books- Amazing books !. I came across this video hoping to find out what gauge strings you recommend. I have looked everywhere to see what you use. I can pick faster on 10s but can't get the hammer-ons to sound anywhere as good as on 9s. I'm forever changing between 9s and 10s. I hope you can advise. Kind thanks :) speed is my goal
How do you like this tuning algorithm? Fix the bridge in the "normal zero right position" no matter how (a log of wood for example, ). As if it is a hard tail. Tune it . Then release and adjust the tension of the springs, if necessary.
Yeah, but when they’re set up right they do work well! I’ve got 2. Still prefer the Kahler on my Jackson. Which just goes to show that the better product doesn’t win. Just like the Lampifier patents we held… great products but squeezed out by the big guys (Shure in particular). Here: Troystetina.com/shop
This is another one -of thoose: 'It might look like i know what i'm freakin' doin'; but i don't -video.' -NEVER, EVER turn thoose posts with string -or spring tension on! You just have to sit back; and wait for the next verse on this bugus valze: '-I'm professional bla, bla; and have always been doin this -no problem bla bla. The TRUTH however is this: Turn/adjust posts under tension riuns both the posts as well as the base plate on Your trem. This is a FACT!
@@TroyStetinaMusic You should NEVER, EVER turn/adjust a post with string -NOR spring tension on! This is a total 'no-no' -on ALL knife edge bridges. To to this safely, easy and professionally: 1.) Flip the tuned and locked guitar over on Your lap. (Point the bar towards the back strapbutton -and balance the bridge tension/bar against Your lap -as You remove the springs.) 2.) Remove all the trem springs at back. 3.) Lay the guitar back onto Your workbench. 4.) insert allen key in the post you want to adjust. 5.) Use your fingers to push the baseplate away from the posts -as you adjust the posts. 6.) Back with the guitar onto Your lap. 7.) Mount back the springs. 8.) Congratulations! -You're DONE! JUST repeat THIS process untill satisfied. -Easy enough, right? This process is also easy to combine -with having that extra popular spring tension block between the tremblock and the rear trem cavity wall -for exact testing/playing/intotaing process during the set up. Yes: This is a part reason why some of us techs are faster; both in live gig situations -as well as in our shops. But beware: Many shop techs still adjust with string tension on. Basicly charging You -for fucking up Your instrument. In most cases you do not even have to RE-tune the instrument at all. The guitar (with the locked nut) should be fairly in tune with the springs back. However: On some guitars the string tension makes it harder to push the base plate back. If this is the case You need to lock up the nut -and loosen the strings that pulls the template the most. Absolutely NOT all thestrings; but only enough -to able You to push back the baseplate when adjusting the posts. Example: Maybe just one clamp -holding the High E and B/H string. To understand and know THIS: Accually puts Your own knowledge about Floyd Rose sep up ahead of many, many selfnamed; pros, techs and luthieres out there. (Simply too many don't know -or refese to understand; that turning the posts under ANY ammont of contact and pressure: WILL scar the posts -as well as dull-up knife edges on the trem base plate. -Do it right my friends -and let the 'dummies' keep doin' their thing... (If You want to help others from fucking up their locking trems: -Just spread the word.)
Трой, привет тебе с урала! Перед снятием струн вставляй брусок между корпусом и флойдом со стороны пружин, чтобы флойд не отклонялся назад. С уважением!
What does being lazy or productive have to do with it? It's a pain for everyone that has ever restrung one, but you had to be the edgy kid with the Slayer shirt and be different didn't you? I bet you also had good things to say about Windows 95.
Hey Troy I use a Kahler trem myself. I thought I saw one of your guitars with one on in a previous video. Would be great to see a video for restringing one of them. Even though they're alot simpler.
Sure, next time I change strings on my Jackson. Also a floating system so the tune up process is similar but a bit less extreme.
You can also change one string at a time while keeping the guitar in tune. The downside is the guitar can not be easily cleaned.
Good point. In a pinch, that can make it easier... However, if you haven't changed the strings for months, cleaning is essential IMO. Especially the fretboard!
Floyd trem? no thanks
I'm surprised no one has invented a better system yet
Well, there are better systems out there. The Kahler floating trem is superior IMO in many respects. No need to cut off the ball ends and use allen key to tighten there, plus the bridge doesn't float so easily as to make tuning such a nightmare. And there are several finger tightened lock nut systems that do away with the hassle factor of needing an allen key there. That's what I have on my Jackson... floating trem with no allen keys required. (Ever try restringing in a dark dressing room? Floyd makes that a nearly impossible task! Don't drop your allen key!)
@@TroyStetinaMusic Fernandes guitars also had a FR-style bridge (Headcrasher) in the 80s that didn't involve Allen keys or cutting off ball ends when you changed strings. I've still got one actually. :)
Hi Troy, I'm working through your metal lead books- Amazing books !. I came across this video hoping to find out what gauge strings you recommend. I have looked everywhere to see what you use. I can pick faster on 10s but can't get the hammer-ons to sound anywhere as good as on 9s. I'm forever changing between 9s and 10s. I hope you can advise. Kind thanks :) speed is my goal
I use 9s. Probably your picking tension needs to relax a bit if it works better with heavier strings
@@TroyStetinaMusic thank you so much sir for your answer ❤️
Very useful information! Cool👍🏻! And thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Now I will consider a Floyd Rose Axe. Thank You.
I get it... I stayed away for a long time just because of the hassle factor! But they do work well!
How do you like this tuning algorithm?
Fix the bridge in the "normal zero right position" no matter how (a log of wood for example, ). As if it is a hard tail. Tune it . Then release and adjust the tension of the springs, if necessary.
Sounds like a plan!
@@TroyStetinaMusic :-) And how do you like this plan?
I’ll try it next time I restring
I cant hear the video 😌
This is why Floyd Rose Sucks! Just got an older LTD with it and I have no idea how to do this
Yeah, but when they’re set up right they do work well! I’ve got 2. Still prefer the Kahler on my Jackson. Which just goes to show that the better product doesn’t win. Just like the Lampifier patents we held… great products but squeezed out by the big guys (Shure in particular). Here: Troystetina.com/shop
By now I have changed them- I had success with changing one string at a time
I never cut the ball off
So you’re telling me your strings have balls??? Nice!😂
@@TroyStetinaMusic lol, just one ball
Then your not stringing a Floyd Rose or any floating trem I know of.
@@RycheForOrder must be your first time
This is another one -of thoose: 'It might look like i know what i'm freakin' doin'; but i don't -video.' -NEVER, EVER turn thoose posts with string -or spring tension on! You just have to sit back; and wait for the next verse on this bugus valze: '-I'm professional bla, bla; and have always been doin this -no problem bla bla. The TRUTH however is this: Turn/adjust posts under tension riuns both the posts as well as the base plate on Your trem. This is a FACT!
Haven’t had a problem with that for minor adjustments.
@@TroyStetinaMusic You should NEVER, EVER turn/adjust a post with string -NOR spring tension on! This is a total 'no-no' -on ALL knife edge bridges.
To to this safely, easy and professionally:
1.) Flip the tuned and locked guitar over on Your lap. (Point the bar towards the back strapbutton -and balance the bridge tension/bar against Your lap -as You remove the springs.)
2.) Remove all the trem springs at back.
3.) Lay the guitar back onto Your workbench.
4.) insert allen key in the post you want to adjust.
5.) Use your fingers to push the baseplate away from the posts -as you adjust the posts.
6.) Back with the guitar onto Your lap.
7.) Mount back the springs.
8.) Congratulations! -You're DONE!
JUST repeat THIS process untill satisfied. -Easy enough, right?
This process is also easy to combine -with having that extra popular spring tension block between the tremblock and the rear trem cavity wall -for exact testing/playing/intotaing process during the set up.
Yes: This is a part reason why some of us techs are faster; both in live gig situations -as well as in our shops. But beware: Many shop techs still adjust with string tension on. Basicly charging You -for fucking up Your instrument.
In most cases you do not even have to RE-tune the instrument at all. The guitar (with the locked nut) should be fairly in tune with the springs back.
However: On some guitars the string tension makes it harder to push the base plate back. If this is the case You need to lock up the nut -and loosen the strings that pulls the template the most. Absolutely NOT all thestrings; but only enough -to able You to push back the baseplate when adjusting the posts. Example: Maybe just one clamp -holding the High E and B/H string.
To understand and know THIS: Accually puts Your own knowledge about Floyd Rose sep up ahead of many, many selfnamed; pros, techs and luthieres out there. (Simply too many don't know -or refese to understand; that turning the posts under ANY ammont of contact and pressure: WILL scar the posts -as well as dull-up knife edges on the trem base plate.
-Do it right my friends -and let the 'dummies' keep doin' their thing...
(If You want to help others from fucking up their locking trems: -Just spread the word.)
Thanks a lot Troy, this video was super-helpful. You have a great way of explaining things in a clear and down to earth way, thanks a lot man! 😎👍
Glad it was helpful!
Трой, привет тебе с урала!
Перед снятием струн вставляй брусок между корпусом и флойдом со стороны пружин, чтобы флойд не отклонялся назад.
С уважением!
Good point. I’ll try that next time 🙂
I don't know why people suffer so much with the floyd rose ,it's easy don't be lazy
What does being lazy or productive have to do with it? It's a pain for everyone that has ever restrung one, but you had to be the edgy kid with the Slayer shirt and be different didn't you? I bet you also had good things to say about Windows 95.
@@lelandgaunt7130 I never found them a pain. Not really any more difficult than restringing a guitar with a regular trem bridge.
@@ukmanthailand But of course you didn't.
Uh… cuz we ARE lazy!