I never comment on videos ... but you literally saved me with this discovery! Bought some red Esun PLA+ ... seemed like it was saturated/wet straight from the vacuum seal ... turned out it does not like retraction! Followed the steps above (set retraction to 2mm in Cura) and yes, one of the most beautiful prints I have done to date! My other 20 PLA spools have never had any issue with retraction. Thanks very much for sharing!
I was having this problem on my Bambu X1C with ABS and ASA and I knew it wasn't moisture because I always thoroughly dry my filament. I tried temperature, cooling, speed, but nothing really changed it until I tried reducing retraction from the 0.8mm default to 0.6mm and I got the most beautiful ABS print I've ever produced. Thanks for the great advice!
Dude - I was having the exact same problem but with PLA, and I followed what you said and lowered the retraction amount and my prints have been amazing after that. Thank you so much!
Somehow this problem occurred on my X1C today. Printed a lot of ABS and out of nowhere I got these pockmarks. I thought Retraction couldn't be the problem since I've already printed some ABS before. Gonna try it out with 0,6mm and if it doesn't helps maybe my Nozzle is partially clogged. What I wonder is why is it happens randomly when there isn't even a seam near of it
Just tried this and it worked perfectly! I was working with a matte filament for the first time and found that it was considerably softer than anything I'd used before. 7 prints with terrible results and this fixed it. Thanks!
Yup. I used an overture matte filament and had the same issue. I was able to find an obscure post on Reddit that gave this exact same solution to the problem and we were all using different colors of overture matte filament. prints are coming out perfectly fine now. Although we just changed it to 3, not 2.
@@noelliespinelli lol, nice. I changed my retraction distance to 3 and now my prints are coming out fine! Someone else on Reddit mentioned that they haven't found a better matte filament so they might just be the way to go.
You save my life! I brought some different brand PLA few weeks ago that never use before and heard popping all the time while printing. I tried different setting, like printing speed, acceleration speed, jerk speed, flow, even lower the nozzle temperature exceed their recommended, still pop!! After i saw your video, turn all setting back to default and set the retraction distance to 1mm, all pops gone and print like a cream now. Thank you so much👍
Thank you so much for this video. I was having such a problem with this and was drying my filament for days. Changed the setting and the print is looking beautiful now!
I have this matte rainbow that is so difficult to use,. I increased the retraction distance and decreased the temperature to 195 to help reduce the high amount of stringing. This helped a bit but then I got pits and under extrusion from too much retraction. So I increased the flow to 105 and this fixed the under-extrusion but random pits continued. (filament dried multiple times so it was not moisture). Also, i think turning off combing is a good idea if the under extrusion is occurring near the seams. I have now turned the retraction distance and speed back down because otherwise air is pulled back into the nozzle resulting in popping and pits. This issue seems to only exist on mattes. It is much easier to tune these on regular pla and even silk. Maybe because matte is so soft and seems to melt at a much lower temperature (i used a heat gun on low to remove stringing and the whole model warped!), I even tried printing at 180c expecting constant clogs but it actually was fine. But still stingy. Maybe mattes should be printed much lower temps than suggested. Mattes also seem less dependable for settings between brands and colors even.
@@stickboyfpv4742 but now i have a big problem all my filaments is breaking so easily i make a knot from filament and it snaps and broken, abs isnt sticking to bed with enclosure and hair sprey .
@Just Chill Is the whole roll that dry? I know any ammount of plastic left in the ptfe tube will get brittle if left in there over night or longer...?!
Filament makers usually dont dry filaments right after manufacture, when material goes through water bath... They pack it wet. So everybody should dry it before printings..
I have pockmarks on several filaments, and use a direct drive extruder. Retraction distance is already low, 0.8mm, so any advice on going lower? I dried the filament, but that didn't solve it.
On my side, my problem was due to, the nozzle was not tightened properly. There should be no gap in between nozzle and heatbreak. I had to ensure that the nozzle has a slight gap of around 0.5mm from heatblock, to ensure that it squashes the heatbreak tightly
@@muhdhish I have the same problem but everything is fine, I have 0,4mm retraction and everything is tight. I use a volcano hotend and a pretty good direct drive extruder, Im ussing klipper so maybe something there is wrong, but all settings seem good. I even set Pressure advance to 0.05 still didnt fix it
I'm using Sprite Pro, with the same 0.8mm retraction. I'm using a lot of polyterra's filament, and it's slightly abrasive, try a new nozzle, that fixed my problems instantly. And in general if you're printing with good settings and getting good results, you are not changing anything, but suddenly your models starts to suck, and you are getting a lot of pockmarks, gaps in layers, poor adhesions etc., it's time to change the nozzle. Also make sure filament is dry, just because it's a fresh new roll doesn't mean it's dry. Polymaker recommends 6 hours in 55c for polyterra PLA.
Maybe this will cause stringing, try adjusting nozzel temp and flow rate and lower print speed. if not, check nozzel or replace it, and check extruder. If still not solved. maybe there is an issue in the printer software.
Actually, it only cause stringing if you turn it down too much. If you find that sweet golden spot, you will avoid both stringing and pockmarks (from my experience)
I can use the same filament on my s1 pro and it prints perfect my 3v2 does this and i have changed every setting possible to fix mine and its still doing it. Im so tired of people telling me its the filament
I have a 3v2 as well and despite running old G code and new (old and latest cuts)and no firmware updates on the printer I now get pockmarks and sometimes bubbles. I have cleaned out and replaced the extruder tooth wheel and reduced the extractor seemed to help. I have replced nozzle and bowden tube couple times my next step will be adjust the flow a touch I'm thinking maybe the hotend is starting to go and its not heating enough. I have a p1p coming so I'm on the fence about bothering to replace the hot end( fans running noisy too)
The vertical line is called seam and you can never really get rid of it, CURA allows to hide it by starting the layer lines in random spots, but to me it looks even worse. I’m afraid the seam will always be somehow visible in FDM prints
2mm retract distans is not recommended for bowden extruders. It may lead to stringing. It worked in your case, because your ptfe tube is not loose yet, but will come over time. Also, it appears your settings of 6mm was retracting too much causing gaps. You should have tried changing settings down in 1mm incrementals until you find your sweet spot. I had a same issue with prints, but in my case it was the popping fillament. I had first tried your suggestion, but it was stringing like hell.
Thank you for the comment! In my opinion it highly depends on the printer, and on the filament as well. For example, every other filament I used works perfectly on 6mm, but Lavender by PolyTerra only works with 2mm. I strongly ecnourage everyone to try tweeking this setting, as I believe every situation is slightly different. And that is true - the lower the retraction distance, the more it is likely for stringing to appear. It is tough to find that golden point of balance, but I believe it’s possible within few attempts. Best of wishes and thanks for sharing your experience! ♥️
Oh I wanted it to be relaxing! Didn’t want to get you down :( but every other video of mine can cheer you up with more upbeat music :)) thanks for sharing your thoughts
I see you have a z seam..! But you did have the pock marks all over...! Im having this problem as well! I have the seam set to back, yet it leaves the marks all over🤔 I MUST try this! Retraction of 2! Im at 5.. Thank you!
I can't get rid of mine!!! I have a direct drive Qidi x plus2 and a qidi x max 3, and i have all my filaments in dryers for WEEKS, and it still does it! I keep dropping the retraction lower and lower... i already print very slow. I keep trying to adjust retraction speeds, change coasting on than off, on then off, on than off every single time i change retraction settings... i have tried adjusting combing settings! I have tried moving the z seam all over the place, i have taken apart the entire extruder assembly and checked every sing part... I can't GET RID OF THIS ISSUE!!! I am ripping my hair out trying to fix this issue!! I only use high-end carbon fiber filaments... pa12-cf, pet-cf, petg-cf, peek-cf, paCo-cf, pa6-cf.. also ultra Pa. i have all metal hotends with BRAND NEW extremely expensive tungsten nozzles and high-grade harden tool-steel nozzles... and i can't get rid of this problem!! I can't get this to go away, and it's completely ruining the quality and appearance of my prints!! Plus, on some prints, it's so bad that it destroys the structural strength on some thinner prints! Please, someone, anyone... help, please?! I am seriously ripping my hair over this BS! My retraction is now all the way down to .8 mm, and the retraction speed is all the way down to 20-25 mm, and it still does this!! I already tried speeding all the settings up higher, too...STILL DOES IT!! All my belts are brand new and tight, the extruder has all metal hardened gears and parts... this issue is really p!ssing me off, and i can't find any videos or advice that has gotten rid of this issue! Sorry for the rant, but this is driving up the wall and i cant find any help! Thank you in advance for reading and any help.
Sorry to here about nightmare,,, but we all get them them from time to time,,lol specialty filaments are a pain the ass,, so tune printer in with Esun PLA+ Grey is colour to see whats happening with the quality- Direct Drive System - PLA+ 0.5mm retraction (i even use 0.4mm or 0.3mm at time with low nozzle temp) 0.8mm is to high for direct drive- Retraction speed 30mm/sec Never use Coasting on a direct drive Here are the Basic settings for Slow but high Quality print- PLA+ Cura 5.4.0 - on SV06+ but you can use these setting on any Slicer/Printer- Always use a XYZCube because it easy to identify problems and see how you go,,, Layer height- 0.2mm Layer width- 0.4mm or 0.5mm Perimeter Speed- 30mm/sec Top/Bottom layers- 40mm/sec Infill speed- 60mm/sec (20% Grid) Jerk- 7 First Layer Speed- 20mm/sec Flow Rate- 90% to 100% (reduce to 95% or 90% instead of 100%) if over extruding (rough surface finish) ----------------------------------- PLA+ TEMP 200deg- ( but do used 195deg at lot- if printing faster increase to 205 and 210 BED TEMP 45deg to 55deg FAN 80% (Start at Layer 4) ------------------------------ 3 Walls Perimeters- (1.2mm or 1.5mm) (depend on witch Layer Width you picked) 5 Bottoms Layers- (1mm) Surface Patterns- Lines Glue Stick- lightly tap Up&Down on bed area (do not Rub in) if having issues with print sticking to bed- Adjust Z-Offset so first layer is slightly squashed -- ( will take a few attempts) *Note- this above list is a Its a cut&paste settings i use to help other people with problems- Acceleration is different for all printer but i use- between 800 to 1500 for everything except perimeters which will be 200 to 600-- if your using 5000 or 10000 and wonder why you have problem please go away and don't waste my time- PS- A faulty wire (semi broken) or the Extruder Stepper Motor is a dude ?-, i had a lose wire inside the plastic connector in one of my stepper motors that worked 95% of the time,, it drive me batshit crazy for weeks until i found it,,,
I never comment on videos ... but you literally saved me with this discovery! Bought some red Esun PLA+ ... seemed like it was saturated/wet straight from the vacuum seal ... turned out it does not like retraction! Followed the steps above (set retraction to 2mm in Cura) and yes, one of the most beautiful prints I have done to date! My other 20 PLA spools have never had any issue with retraction. Thanks very much for sharing!
I’m so happy I saved you some time, it tooks me weeks until I figured out how to fix this problem. Thank you so much for the comment!!
I was having this problem on my Bambu X1C with ABS and ASA and I knew it wasn't moisture because I always thoroughly dry my filament. I tried temperature, cooling, speed, but nothing really changed it until I tried reducing retraction from the 0.8mm default to 0.6mm and I got the most beautiful ABS print I've ever produced. Thanks for the great advice!
Dude - I was having the exact same problem but with PLA, and I followed what you said and lowered the retraction amount and my prints have been amazing after that. Thank you so much!
Somehow this problem occurred on my X1C today. Printed a lot of ABS and out of nowhere I got these pockmarks. I thought Retraction couldn't be the problem since I've already printed some ABS before. Gonna try it out with 0,6mm and if it doesn't helps maybe my Nozzle is partially clogged.
What I wonder is why is it happens randomly when there isn't even a seam near of it
@@goopylooloodid you change your retraction distance or your retraction vertical lift?
That was the fix. Thanks so much!
Just tried this and it worked perfectly! I was working with a matte filament for the first time and found that it was considerably softer than anything I'd used before. 7 prints with terrible results and this fixed it. Thanks!
Thank you for the comment, I'm happy the video helped you!
Yup. I used an overture matte filament and had the same issue. I was able to find an obscure post on Reddit that gave this exact same solution to the problem and we were all using different colors of overture matte filament. prints are coming out perfectly fine now.
Although we just changed it to 3, not 2.
@@chrisnorwood0211 the exact number may differ a bit, but the most important is that it worked! I’m glad you had your problem solved
@@chrisnorwood0211omg, also here looking for solutions to pockmarks on Overture matte
@@noelliespinelli lol, nice. I changed my retraction distance to 3 and now my prints are coming out fine! Someone else on Reddit mentioned that they haven't found a better matte filament so they might just be the way to go.
You save my life!
I brought some different brand PLA few weeks ago that never use before and heard popping all the time while printing. I tried different setting, like printing speed, acceleration speed, jerk speed, flow, even lower the nozzle temperature exceed their recommended, still pop!!
After i saw your video, turn all setting back to default and set the retraction distance to 1mm, all pops gone and print like a cream now.
Thank you so much👍
I’m so happy to hear that! Have fun with your new filament ;)
Great editing, I ran into the same problem and this definitely gave me a starting point and an understanding of possible causes
I am very happy to hear that, good luck with your prints!
Thank you so much for this video. I was having such a problem with this and was drying my filament for days. Changed the setting and the print is looking beautiful now!
@@zhonukreeke I am super happy it worked for you. Thanks so much for leaving a comment! It really brightened my day!
This saved me from pulling hairs out! I was about to take apart my extruder when I saw your fix. Thanks.
Hahah, glad your extruder survived! Cheers!
hi man you are a life saver. i had an order for 100 pcs of a certain piece and 48 of them had this issue saved me at least 30 dollars
thank you tons
That’s awesome to hear! Thanks for letting me know!
You are my hero! Have the same problem with Terra Fillament. Have 4mm retract, will test with yout 2mm. Thanks very much!
You are welcome! I am so happy I could help!
I just got a new printer and didn’t even think about the retraction!!! Thank you!
Happy to help! Have fun with your printer!
I also didn’t know direct drive and Bowden tubes have different retraction distances. After a few more prints, it’s up and running! Thank you again!!!
I have this matte rainbow that is so difficult to use,. I increased the retraction distance and decreased the temperature to 195 to help reduce the high amount of stringing. This helped a bit but then I got pits and under extrusion from too much retraction. So I increased the flow to 105 and this fixed the under-extrusion but random pits continued. (filament dried multiple times so it was not moisture). Also, i think turning off combing is a good idea if the under extrusion is occurring near the seams. I have now turned the retraction distance and speed back down because otherwise air is pulled back into the nozzle resulting in popping and pits. This issue seems to only exist on mattes. It is much easier to tune these on regular pla and even silk. Maybe because matte is so soft and seems to melt at a much lower temperature (i used a heat gun on low to remove stringing and the whole model warped!), I even tried printing at 180c expecting constant clogs but it actually was fine. But still stingy. Maybe mattes should be printed much lower temps than suggested. Mattes also seem less dependable for settings between brands and colors even.
this is amazing! thank you so much! This problem aroze when i got a matt filament and this took care of it!
I’m so happy to help!
I have excellent the same filament and exactly the same problem. I will try this immediately and come back for results
I have the same philament and the same problem. Thank you for making this video
Happy to help!
It fixed the problem. I'm so happy
@@nemethbarnabas4874 I’m very glad to hear that! Have fun with your printer 😁
Helped a lot , i got lot of rockmarks on prints after i upgraded my ender 3 neo to direct extruder
I’m glad to hear that!
i will try this tomorrow and keep it updated
it works! thank you
@@justchill4886 thanks!
@@stickboyfpv4742 but now i have a big problem all my filaments is breaking so easily i make a knot from filament and it snaps and broken, abs isnt sticking to bed with enclosure and hair sprey .
@Just Chill Is the whole roll that dry? I know any ammount of plastic left in the ptfe tube will get brittle if left in there over night or longer...?!
@@stickboyfpv4742 humidity is %50 at filament box can it dry whole filament? not sure but im using it daily
You saved me! Same brank and kind of pla, and man you're a 3d print saver hahah
I’m so glad to hear that! You made my day with that comment
Life saver! Thank you!
Filament makers usually dont dry filaments right after manufacture, when material goes through water bath... They pack it wet. So everybody should dry it before printings..
I have pockmarks on several filaments, and use a direct drive extruder. Retraction distance is already low, 0.8mm, so any advice on going lower? I dried the filament, but that didn't solve it.
On my side, my problem was due to, the nozzle was not tightened properly. There should be no gap in between nozzle and heatbreak. I had to ensure that the nozzle has a slight gap of around 0.5mm from heatblock, to ensure that it squashes the heatbreak tightly
@@muhdhish I have the same problem but everything is fine, I have 0,4mm retraction and everything is tight. I use a volcano hotend and a pretty good direct drive extruder, Im ussing klipper so maybe something there is wrong, but all settings seem good. I even set Pressure advance to 0.05 still didnt fix it
I'm using Sprite Pro, with the same 0.8mm retraction. I'm using a lot of polyterra's filament, and it's slightly abrasive, try a new nozzle, that fixed my problems instantly. And in general if you're printing with good settings and getting good results, you are not changing anything, but suddenly your models starts to suck, and you are getting a lot of pockmarks, gaps in layers, poor adhesions etc., it's time to change the nozzle. Also make sure filament is dry, just because it's a fresh new roll doesn't mean it's dry. Polymaker recommends 6 hours in 55c for polyterra PLA.
Thanks for this video i will try it
You are very much welcome!
Thank you
Happy to help!
perfect man! thank you soo much
You’re welcome! Thanks for the comment!
Maybe this will cause stringing, try adjusting nozzel temp and flow rate and lower print speed. if not, check nozzel or replace it, and check extruder. If still not solved. maybe there is an issue in the printer software.
Actually, it only cause stringing if you turn it down too much. If you find that sweet golden spot, you will avoid both stringing and pockmarks (from my experience)
This work on flat surfaces to?
mine had the same issue as yours but when I went from 6.0 to 2.0 so I just went back to 2.0
Does anyone understand how "retract distance" can possibly cause randomly located pock marks?
damn, youre right... my retraction was too high!
Happy to help!
What are the odds that I’m using the exact same filament right now😂 hello from America.
Then I’m glad you’ve found my video! Good luck with your 3D prints, dear American viewer! 🤜🤛
TTTHaaannnnnnnk you so much it wooorrrrkked
Happy to help!
I can use the same filament on my s1 pro and it prints perfect my 3v2 does this and i have changed every setting possible to fix mine and its still doing it. Im so tired of people telling me its the filament
Do the pockmarks appear on the top surface also? Or just the walls?
I have a 3v2 as well and despite running old G code and new (old and latest cuts)and no firmware updates on the printer I now get pockmarks and sometimes bubbles. I have cleaned out and replaced the extruder tooth wheel and reduced the extractor seemed to help. I have replced nozzle and bowden tube couple times my next step will be adjust the flow a touch I'm thinking maybe the hotend is starting to go and its not heating enough. I have a p1p coming so I'm on the fence about bothering to replace the hot end( fans running noisy too)
Worth noting it's worse on matt pla, little less on silks and perfect on standard pla and pla plus so honestly has me purplexed.
how do you remove the line that appears in 2:30?
The vertical line is called seam and you can never really get rid of it, CURA allows to hide it by starting the layer lines in random spots, but to me it looks even worse. I’m afraid the seam will always be somehow visible in FDM prints
I had issue with abs retraction was only 2 mm
Sorry, I don’t have much experience with ABS, if it’s not retraction then maybe the filament humidity is the issue?
2mm retract distans is not recommended for bowden extruders. It may lead to stringing. It worked in your case, because your ptfe tube is not loose yet, but will come over time. Also, it appears your settings of 6mm was retracting too much causing gaps. You should have tried changing settings down in 1mm incrementals until you find your sweet spot. I had a same issue with prints, but in my case it was the popping fillament. I had first tried your suggestion, but it was stringing like hell.
Thank you for the comment! In my opinion it highly depends on the printer, and on the filament as well. For example, every other filament I used works perfectly on 6mm, but Lavender by PolyTerra only works with 2mm. I strongly ecnourage everyone to try tweeking this setting, as I believe every situation is slightly different. And that is true - the lower the retraction distance, the more it is likely for stringing to appear. It is tough to find that golden point of balance, but I believe it’s possible within few attempts. Best of wishes and thanks for sharing your experience! ♥️
I hope this works
thy, same fillament, same problem, thy
Im glad it helped!
why is the music so sad :'(
Oh I wanted it to be relaxing! Didn’t want to get you down :( but every other video of mine can cheer you up with more upbeat music :)) thanks for sharing your thoughts
@@architech_the_engineer sadly this didn't fix my issue. It's happening along the wall and not at the seam.
@@urgamecshk maybe its actually the moisture of the filament in your case? It can affect the surface quality as well as retraction distance
retraction....
6mm!? Even 2mm is way too much.
Well, it all really depends on filament, I have previously worked with PLA which required 6mm at least. Materials can differ a lot ;)
I see you have a z seam..! But you did have the pock marks all over...! Im having this problem as well! I have the seam set to back, yet it leaves the marks all over🤔 I MUST try this! Retraction of 2! Im at 5.. Thank you!
I hope it will help, good luck! ☺️
I can't get rid of mine!!! I have a direct drive Qidi x plus2 and a qidi x max 3, and i have all my filaments in dryers for WEEKS, and it still does it! I keep dropping the retraction lower and lower... i already print very slow. I keep trying to adjust retraction speeds, change coasting on than off, on then off, on than off every single time i change retraction settings... i have tried adjusting combing settings! I have tried moving the z seam all over the place, i have taken apart the entire extruder assembly and checked every sing part... I can't GET RID OF THIS ISSUE!!! I am ripping my hair out trying to fix this issue!! I only use high-end carbon fiber filaments... pa12-cf, pet-cf, petg-cf, peek-cf, paCo-cf, pa6-cf.. also ultra Pa. i have all metal hotends with BRAND NEW extremely expensive tungsten nozzles and high-grade harden tool-steel nozzles... and i can't get rid of this problem!! I can't get this to go away, and it's completely ruining the quality and appearance of my prints!! Plus, on some prints, it's so bad that it destroys the structural strength on some thinner prints! Please, someone, anyone... help, please?! I am seriously ripping my hair over this BS! My retraction is now all the way down to .8 mm, and the retraction speed is all the way down to 20-25 mm, and it still does this!! I already tried speeding all the settings up higher, too...STILL DOES IT!! All my belts are brand new and tight, the extruder has all metal hardened gears and parts... this issue is really p!ssing me off, and i can't find any videos or advice that has gotten rid of this issue! Sorry for the rant, but this is driving up the wall and i cant find any help! Thank you in advance for reading and any help.
Sorry to here about nightmare,,, but we all get them them from time to time,,lol
specialty filaments are a pain the ass,, so tune printer in with Esun PLA+ Grey is colour to see whats happening with the quality-
Direct Drive System - PLA+
0.5mm retraction (i even use 0.4mm or 0.3mm at time with low nozzle temp) 0.8mm is to high for direct drive-
Retraction speed 30mm/sec
Never use Coasting on a direct drive
Here are the Basic settings for Slow but high Quality print- PLA+
Cura 5.4.0 - on SV06+ but you can use these setting on any Slicer/Printer-
Always use a XYZCube because it easy to identify problems and see how you go,,,
Layer height- 0.2mm
Layer width- 0.4mm or 0.5mm
Perimeter Speed- 30mm/sec
Top/Bottom layers- 40mm/sec
Infill speed- 60mm/sec (20% Grid)
Jerk- 7
First Layer Speed- 20mm/sec
Flow Rate- 90% to 100% (reduce to 95% or 90% instead of 100%) if over extruding (rough surface finish)
-----------------------------------
PLA+ TEMP 200deg- ( but do used 195deg at lot- if printing faster increase to 205 and 210
BED TEMP 45deg to 55deg
FAN 80% (Start at Layer 4)
------------------------------
3 Walls Perimeters- (1.2mm or 1.5mm) (depend on witch Layer Width you picked)
5 Bottoms Layers- (1mm)
Surface Patterns- Lines
Glue Stick- lightly tap Up&Down on bed area (do not Rub in) if having issues with print sticking to bed-
Adjust Z-Offset so first layer is slightly squashed -- ( will take a few attempts)
*Note- this above list is a Its a cut&paste settings i use to help other people with problems-
Acceleration is different for all printer but i use- between 800 to 1500 for everything except perimeters which will be 200 to 600-- if your using 5000 or 10000 and wonder why you have problem please go away and don't waste my time-
PS- A faulty wire (semi broken) or the Extruder Stepper Motor is a dude ?-,
i had a lose wire inside the plastic connector in one of my stepper motors that worked 95% of the time,, it drive me batshit crazy for weeks until i found it,,,
🦞🦞🦞🦞l🦞obster 🦞🦞🦞🦞