Engine Block Repair - Dyeco Super Cast
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- Опубликовано: 17 окт 2024
- This video showcases our Dyeco Super Cast Electrode. It's a great choice when repairing cast iron. Product information is listed below. If you would like to contact us, please call Matt Grandi @ 717-395-3180 or email me at Mgrandi@dyecoinc.com. Thank you for watching. Please consider subscribing for more great videos!
The Dyeco Cast Iron Product Line of specially formulated products has been developed specifically to provide maximum weld integrity with enhanced weldability. Welding cast iron types such as gray, ductile, malleable, high strength spheroidal graphite (SG), compacted irons, etc. can be readily accomplished using welder-friendly DyecoTrode Cast Iron Products.
DESCRIPTION: DyecoTrode Super Cast is characterized by a smooth arc and virtually spatter-free weld deposits. The as-deposit structure is essentially a nickel-iron matrix with a very fine dispersion of graphite nodules for improved crack resistance.
APPLICATIONS: Compressor casings, bell housings, differential cases, jacketed castings (engine blocks) cast iron automotive dies, etc. For difficult applications call your Dyeco Office for more information & customer-engineered solutions.
SUPER CAST PREPARATION:
Prepare the joint to be welded by first degreasing followed by grinding or pneumatic chipping. For arc-gouging preparation use DyecoTrode XO-THERM. When grinding it is important NOT to cause coloring in the casting. This indicates overheating and possible hard-spotting. A nominal preheat of 150º to 225ºF is recommended for heavy castings with thick cross-sections. For broken sections allow a root opening of 1/8” to 3/16 for full penetration welds.
SUPER CAST WELDING TECHNIQUE:
Select the most suitable diameter based on part thickness, mass, and area to be repaired. Using the amperage range shown in the Technical Information Table, for optimum results. Maintain a reasonably short arc-length while holding the electrode nearly vertical to the work-piece. Deposit short runs not more than 2” to 3” long. De-slag and wire brush between multi-passes and over-lapping weld deposits. Peen moderately to reduce contraction stresses. Allow part to cool in still air after welding.
Top notch pro repair. This is the video to watch.
How many passes was that in total and how long did they take? What was the height/thickness of the build up approximately?
The best repair I've seen. People don't peen or they peen 15-20 minutes after they take a break, lol throw it away before it cools, it will reduce the level of sadness. People don't preheat or not the whole piece. 👎🏼👎🏼 That post heat with the slow cool 😎 is just next level! Thanks for the demo, now I need an annealing furnace.
Try this method on a 2500 LB. casting that's broken in half. It will be broken again before your first cup of coffee. Veteran torch welder here!
Nice fix ! , My buddy BRANDON LUND used some stuff named MUGGY WELD it's a no pre heat Rod it seemed to work great have you tryed it ? Thanks TANK
Hi great video ,and great job ! I have a block with a crack on the outside of water jacket by the freeze plug ,can this be repaired like that ? I have nickel rod ,and ac or dc stick welder, not sure polarity to use though ,thank you .
@Archie Lewis NO ONE cares about your spam!
@Lakeesha Behrman No one cares bout your fake comment.
No weld tapered pipe plugs
for a dart shp by the time you pay for the repair and machine to remove excess weld material, you are probably 2/3 the way to the cost of a new block arent you?
Are you welding in AC or DC ?
Nice job!
Why not just sleeve those two bores and eliminate all that concentrated heat in that area of the block ?
what kind of block is that
That must be a rare block or an expensive one, bare blocks are cheap and everywhere.
Maybe just numbers matching or blueprinted aftermarket. It's so funny how almost 80% of cars not even run hard have been repowered. The machine tolerance and design is just bad in the 60s and 70s. In the future, matching numbers won't be much of a thing because motors don't wear or crack like they used to. A Dart or Motown with all the Blueprinting done, bushed or keyed lifters, custom oiling and cooling mods, and so on would be much cheaper to fix. I can't imagine that repair costing more than? $500? What do you guys think?
Well, i guess I’m the asshole because i saw a lot of inclusions that created porosity after that milling. Best to go back and grind those out and weld in more material. I realize you want to advertise cast iron welding rods but this isn’t a good finished product.
Yeah, I wasn't going to be the first to say it, but you're right.
See what looks like a toe crack at 8:18 on the left too, at the weld metal to base metal junction...? I wonder if they fixed that if it is a crack?
Okay