Up here in NY idk we’re ur located but the block in my sti I just got, was 3890$ for the built closed deck, and full bolt on came out to be 15,879.93 cents all through labor and pale trap parts that included rebuilt heads and cleaning.
@@GolfanCars stock tune? or bigger turbo as far as bolt on and exhaust im figuring. Or you already had the big turbo and exhaust prior to the rebuild etc. Also stock tune/ecu/cobb etc. Just wondering BC buying used SUBIES/STI is such a "process". That buying one stock or auto/low miles and BUILDING up seems to be the best BET if i want the damn thing to RUN. W.o having to rebuild it or constantly have it at the shop.
@@anhiirr so pretty much I had the parts prior to the rebuild and they just replaced everything instead of having them buy it and me paying for it it actually saved me close too 7k
The reason companies may be reluctant to reveal pricing is because they’d get customers seeing the video years later and still expecting the costs to be the same, when parts/materials/Labour/energy costs go up and down all the time.
Mike consistently shares those truths and secrets that many in the various segments of the automotive engineering world he works in, try to hold tight.
spent a couple hours just trying to see what will get me to 400hp if i ever get there couldnt find anything other than keyboard warriors this man just throws the information out there good looks🤙
lmao NRE be like ls2 engine thats a start....but have you heard of the LS3....or the 327+ boost +_+. Me like NOOO we want 400 with the smallest engine footprint as far as weight, weight ratio, and even headers/turbo manifold XD. NRE Well The LS is all aluminum.....and the ls fanboyism ensues. I laugh when ppl talk "BUILDS" with v8s as if half the fanbois dont realize the amount on auto trans for the strip....vs the cost of a BUILT 6 spd+dif......its so ironic. As they talk cost to HP ratios.......smdh
@@anhiirr To be fair. LS's are far FAR superior to almost any engine in terms of price, power, weight, size, commonality and most importantly, RELIABILITY. Sure, there are many engines that might beat the LS in one or two of those categories, but nothing comes close to beating it in all of them.
Hmmm. I'm going with IAG 750 shirt block for $5000 that starts with a brand new block. I was 425 WHP with drop in CP pistons on my original short block. I plan on around 475 WHP so I dont break anything... 07' STi
What a professionally performed video, I really like the way you cover the top end builds as well as the budget guy. most people just want a simple build with longevity whilst the race guys want the same thing at the other end of the scale. Being able to fairly price your products can only be justified with experienced people like yourselves, that know engines inside out and explaining the reasons why you need or don't need upgraded parts. This video covers it all. Well done Mike and Martin.
This was such a transparent and direct video, absolutely amazing. The realistic project costing and detailed explanation was great. I can't thank you enough for doing this. Could y'all do a similar video on a k24? I know there are a lot of variants out there.
27:40 What I think Mike is talking about with high cycle fatigue is what happens to loose bicycle spokes. When the dynamic load is light the bolt will relax enough that it goes out of tension or stays in very light tension. Then when the dynamic load is increased the bolt will stretch back into the proper tension range. This constant cycling of going from relaxed to tense will develop micro cracks in the bolt and eventually lead to failure, usually at sharp corners like the threads or bolt head. A properly tightened bolt will stay stressed enough in light dynamic loads to not relax enough to promote micro cracking. Resistance to micro cracking is known as notch resistance, and 4340 steel has excellent notch resistance.
If I ever one day have the money to build my STi, I will definitely be talking to you guys. Fantastic, informative, transparent, well-presented series of videos without a speck of unnecessary over-production typical of RUclipsrs.
If the work and parts don’t last and they don’t do what you expect. You didn’t save money. This is a comprehensive and well thought out video. Thank you all at MotoIQ
Absolutely can't get enough of your videos so informational everything in which you speak of you just exude confidence which gives me full confidence in trusting what you say to continue to keep my Subaru strong and healthy and lasting as long as possible and like many many other comments as much as I love my current builder I have absolutely no issues with currently running iag stage 2 tough short block FP black turbo at about 24 PSI and couldn't be happier with the car approaching that 20,000 mile mark on the build absolutely no issues right around 575 awhp but when I'm ready to go closed deck and get into that next power level I definitely want to have you guys build it for me I just absolutely love the above and beyond not cutting corners all of the extremely precise machining and engineering and all of the knowledge that you have acquired over the years of r&d and I'm sure some trial and error LOL. Will be looking forward to that experience.
wish you guys were in Australia. Been in the motor trade most of my life and I am well able to pick the good actors out there. Thank you for all of the invaluable and highly technical information you have put out there on the EJ series Subaru motors. Cheers from Australia "Mate" Smashed the sub and likes on all the vids,
Damnnnnn....awesome video! I would have loved to have had access to y'alls EJ videos a year ago when I was having to spec a full rebuild for my blown motor. Great content and I love the transparent, no BS communication style.
I watch all your videos for the most part and you guys to me are the most informative and knowledgeable about Subaru Motors you guys are amazing appreciate you guys very much
While a lot of the processes and component upgrades would likely be the same, I would love to hear your advice on Subaru’s FA platform, and how to make good reliable power with it.
Super stoked about this video. I've been hesitating about sending an email for the longest time just because I didn't feel like wasting your guys time with basic questions.
The way I see it, never do bare minimum. If you want 400-450 then build it to hold far beyond that. I enjoy watching these videos a lot. You guys are Very knowledgeable
@@BobbyB910 a lot of people try to make it seem like you can’t build a monster block, and baby it for a long time. And by baby it I mean don’t track and launch. I just want fun longevity
@@Visca_Motion_Pictures I’ve had a Nissan ka24de last 75k stock unopened on 17psi I just changed the oil and didn’t beat it all the time just some highway spirited driving
@@Visca_Motion_Pictures I’m new to the ej but I’m looking forward to it I have a Outback sport 2009 and I’m getting all the parts for a STI swap I’m planning on 350ish and just have a fun daily
This is a gold mine for anyone who has warranty issues with their STi’s or has the unfortunate experience of having to work directly with Subaru of America’s “Customer Advocates”
Super interesting video and smarter marketing idea. Most people don't want a maxed out build for track, they may want a little more reliable power for the street and improving and correcting flaws from the factory. I love the transparency of the costs of the work.
Bro how tf is there price lower for a 400~450hp engine build, than what my neighborhood shop charges for just a headgasket replacement??? 💀.... God I love motoIQ
Would you all ever consider building an engine for a highway tractor? CAT, Cummins, Detroit? I think a lot of guys would pay extra for your level of detail to go 1.5 million miles without opening it back up... The WPC and cryo treatment sounds really appealing for the rest of the drivetrain too...
Well, that inframe that now averages $30k will no doubt go to $40-45k+ I have been an owner operator and know what the bills look like. Some things like balancing and blueprinting should be done, possibly ceramic coating the piston tops if you're adding fuel and boost. The WPC treatment should be done to the differentials. Just reducing the friction should pick up .3 or better mpg. Anything to reduce drag in the driveline will make the truck run better.
@@motoiq you could tap into a new market. Finding a good engine builder in the truck world is tough. The emission style diesels are wiping out in 500k or so because of the EGR systems and tuning.
@@motoiq I think they're exclusively using DEF and SCR systems now. I can't remember what year that was introduced. I think most manufacturers are still using EGR. The DPF isn't going anywhere though. They're taking the shotgun approach to emissions and because of that it's still somewhat unrefined, to my knowledge none of them will go more than 500k without major service, most are more of a headache than that. A lot of the old non emissions engines can easily go a million miles, a million and half is doable but takes a lot of care. Thanks for taking an interest in serving the professional driver, at least ones that never see a race track
Why use an Eagle crank over an OEM Nitrated crank? I Understand the Eagle is billet vs Forged Steel (OEM) but crank failure is not a high failure rate. Just looking at it from the cost POV. Eagle beeing $1200 and OEM Being around $350. Great video and looking forward to seeing more!
@@motoiq just to understand your using the 85mm crank vs the 79mm to achieve a better rod to stroke ratio? Did not see a mention of size so just curious 😅🙏
What a great video. Exactly what people would like to know. I'm here in Aus so I understand pricing is a little different but I think your pricing and explanations were great and exactly what people want to know. All the best guys will like and subscribe to help!
Great info. 69 retired lineman, fixed income just getting by. 2006 sti stock w/spt add ons, enjoy the car , tuf on the pocket regarding premium fuel. 140,000 miles. God bless America. Paz y salud
My engine builder recommended a brand new case from Subaru. For the price of machine work compared to a new case it's worth it. This was for a street/reliable/daily driven build. Needed a rebuild and wanted to build something for if and when I decided to add more power, I didn't have to open the engine back up.(never had a chance too) This was back in 2018. Came to around 8,000 USD this was from Rallispec in new Jersey, great company and a good builder Vince. Mind you this was about 5 years ago and a lot has changed since then, pricing wise in the world. New OEM block and crank, Rallispec h-std rods by saenz, Manley pistons/rings, and kings bearings. 550hp rated. $3,000 Engine removal and install $800 Engine teardown/reassemble $1200 Timing belt gates kit. $240 Exedy stage 1 clutch/flywheel. $900 ARP 2000 head studs. $200 Engine gasket set. $290 IAG- performance series air/oil separator with labor. $550 Cylinder head machining. $200 (cut me a huge break. It needed valves and they had a used set laying around and put them in for free Very happy with the build. They also removed the air pump and put a tune on my AP to remove the check engine light. Sadly the car was totaled about a year later by a kid running a stop sign and t-boning me which push my car straight into a heavy duty street sign. I was doing about 55mph with no seatbelt on and walked away with a small cut on my leg. My 2011 wrx was totalled and since I didn't add the motor work onto my insurance, they wouldn't give me any extra money for it.. Insurance paid the car off and I got like 7k in my pocket maybe? after buying the car back for 2500. I then traded it to a friend for a 04 Forester. He actually fixed the WRX and sold it to someone we work with lol. I see that car every day and it makes my stomach turn...
@@motoiq it was probably done then I'm assuming. Only meant for the price of the machining and the time some builders prefer to buy a new case is all. Great video! Enjoy watching these types of videos
$675 is still a lot less than $1100 for new case halves, and, you probably end up with better clearances than stock case halves. The problem is so few machine shops can be trusted to do Subaru case halves correctly.
NEW SUB! Liked! I have a 2020 STI that I’m gonna build eventually after warranty is over. But I’ll start saving for the build from now. So when I contact you guys, I’ll be 100% ready. BTW Great content and info, keep it up!
A nice wrap up video to the EJ series. Thanks for the info on the Beryllium valves seats. I do work with some of that in aerospace (it has some really cool properties, even though it can be hazardous when machining). I was wondering if you had a preferred supplier and is it the copper-beryllium alloy?
Check out Del West and Dura Bond. Lately we have been experimenting with Copper Nickel alloys which give most of the benefits of Beryllium without the toxicity issues.
@@motoiq You have an almost 0% chance of anything bad happening with Beryllium due to toxicity, You would have to snort a line of it about a quarter pound in weight. In the Army i had to work with it a ton, grinding it, sanding and so forth.
@@Turbolious ah, random youtube commenter vs. facts about Berylliosis. "Sensitization to beryllium may develop rapidly or several years after initial beryllium exposure, resulting in an increased risk of chronic berylliosis". Look it up. Similar to asbestos, it won't kill you instantly but it will affect you in the long run.
2011 wrx 6 spd swapped to stock motor with 160k miles. Its weird, take care of something and it will last. Huh. I do recommend oil pickup tho and baffled pan so you can have fun. 😊
I love all your videos, specially this one about the EJ engine I own a 2006 Hawkeye STI. And that is my plan for the future to build a engine. Keep those videos coming, thanks 👍😁
you basically cant , as i asked above you can go ahead and assemble it yourself but your still going to end up sending it in to get machined so you might as well buy a prebuilt staged engine to save yourself some money . big shops like this can handle the builds but "home builders" just cant complete the proper build without help from a credible shop .
@@bigbodykarate6403 yep its the same as ppl with semi/street ported 12A FB's.....i can try to buy a stock FB all i want or even an auto and swap a manual trans....and all the parts for a "built" 12A rotary...but its essentially IMPOSSIBLE right in line with "you basically cant" bc of the huge NEED of Porting and ideal valves in the EJ case.....and porting in the 12A....and even worse for NA/rotary is how much FLOW they need and how its all supposed to be concurrent with your intake/runners....and matched to an equal length/depth header system....you upgrade to a different carb....boom the headers/exhaust becomes an issue based on the fact that the carbs wont function ideally bc of the PORTING+exhaust/header system being perfectly matched to the previous carb/intake when TUNED/built prior to any post "build" upgrade. Same if you want to run a specific exhaust system/custom etc.....or if you find some EPIC authentic parts even titanium...youd wind up having to hack them up, to find the best back pressure in a turbo system that is now stroked, and machine/ported. For the proper fuel/air ratio for proper/reliable power. The amount of cost alone in this tuning/fab process ruins the cost aspect/efficacy of the build....like you said "were" better off buying pre builts....esp bc theyve already been tuned....be it NA like a rotary or even a V8....the "OPTIONS" for ideal headers or head flow is already blue printed with these pre-built engines too which really helps with cost...vs people trying to buy up parts xyz from various build vids/forum posts theyve seen...ultimately not needing 1/2 to even most of them bc of the MACHINING process and aspect to compression/porting/exhaust and flow at the end of the tuning stage.
Dude I'm down to pay you guys!! Thamk you for the value. I literally will sell all my shit and move to where you guys are and be an apprentice. Thanks again for all you're valuable info you guys are putting out there! You guys are Rockstar status
Good to know I don’t need to do anything crazy to keep it reliable. Forged pistons / good rods / bearings / Oil upgrades. I just want 350 reliable horsepower :)
Holy crap, when Mike was talking about 2/1000th of inch misalignment in machining and how it is a prevalent problem in fly by night shops... my stomach started to turn.
I wish I could have Mike help me with a build.im from Oregon and I have been screwed by a few shops in the last year..Mike really seems to know the EJ engine
When Mike mentioned custom fixturing for holding the components while being machined, I knew even more so than before, that he is indeed the most thorough blue-printer and builder in the states. Custom work holding and fixturing is the most important consideration. Does anyone know if Moto IQ will be offering naturally aspirated engine blue printing for the 2022 GR86? Thanks.
We can but simple blueprinting won't yield much on a modern stock engine. Engines are built to much tighter tolerances than they were 20 years ago due to advances in machining technology. We are careful when machining an engine to new tolerances but just taking apart and redoing a perfectly fine running stock engine to blueprint it isnt worth the expense. Most machine shops cannot hold as tight tolerances as OEM now days. We can build the FA engine so if you need to, hit use up.
I really like this info, even being late to the videos. I blew the gearbox on my -05 wrx ( big surprise ), and in fixing that (installing a 6spd) I might just put on a slightly bigger turbo, which could put a clock on the poor ej205 in there, having done 120' miles. New turbo is a kinugawa twin scroll to keep response and gain a bit of top range, going from the 260-280 crank to 300-320 ). My wrx have never taken any oil. The car I got while I fix my wrx, a forester -07 xt, I was told takes a bit of oil, but it is fun with a vf48 and a remap... I might contact you about planning the future engine for my wrx, at some point it will break.
I went with IAG, for one I never heard of these guys until now, not their fault. Just how big the world is. But two, IAG is just another great engine maker. BUt this video was great. Good job MOtoIQ
Great video and impressive attention to details and sorting out weaknesses in the EJ 205. I have an ‘02WRX Wagon. Burned exhaust valve ✅ at 176k which several of the exhaust valves thinned out by that point. A few layers of bearing layers missing on either a rod or main bearing. Early crank with fewer oiling holes. Some little cracks between spark plug holes and valve seats, triggered new heads. Original hone crosshatch still intact in all cylinders - Mobil 1 - 10w30@5k. Just one track day but a significant number of spirited corners :) I wanted the updated crank - so got a factory short block, new heads.. Dealer reused cylinder head studs bolts, oil pump, oil cooler, cams, New short block had much finer hone - usually running Mobil 1 5w30 265k miles on vehicle about 90 k on new motor mild tune stage one on motor since about 10k original miles. Doesn’t use oil ~ I’d be quite tempted to go with the nice valve job, balancing, etc knowledge on the next build if i keep my car for another ten years :) Local machine shop peened out the above mentioned cracks in the original heads, is that a fix your shop is ok with? What is the longevity of forged pistons in a mild tuned stock turbo car? Equal to oem pistons? Also interested in the oil pan & pickup, are these compatible with a cusco style front under brace?
We would not reuse those heads, straight in the trash. Forged pistons don't last as long as OEM, but the Subaru OEM pistons are very weak. Subaru engines are fragile in there own way, you can't cut corners. The pan and pickup are are compatible with a Cusco underbrace.
@@motoiq about how many miles would forged pistons last in a mildly tuned car? No more than 300whp? I watched your video on exhausts too. I’m running stock cats from the turbo back with a 2.5 inch prodrive straight through muffler. Wondering if a bigger intermediate pipe with resonator would make much of a difference keeping stock cats and prodrive axle back? Thanks ✨
Something like 100k miles. I mean it will go much longer but wear in the ring grooves and still will cause a gradual decline in compression and an increase in oil burning. With Subarus you have to be careful with mods and no tuning. I think a mid-pipe should be ok but not a downpipe.
This is why Mike and MotoiQ will be my goto for my next build. Everybody else says contact us but never reveals pricing. Thanks Mike!!
Up here in NY idk we’re ur located but the block in my sti I just got, was 3890$ for the built closed deck, and full bolt on came out to be 15,879.93 cents all through labor and pale trap parts that included rebuilt heads and cleaning.
@@GolfanCars stock tune? or bigger turbo as far as bolt on and exhaust im figuring. Or you already had the big turbo and exhaust prior to the rebuild etc. Also stock tune/ecu/cobb etc. Just wondering BC buying used SUBIES/STI is such a "process". That buying one stock or auto/low miles and BUILDING up seems to be the best BET if i want the damn thing to RUN. W.o having to rebuild it or constantly have it at the shop.
@@anhiirr so pretty much I had the parts prior to the rebuild and they just replaced everything instead of having them buy it and me paying for it it actually saved me close too 7k
@@GolfanCars Sounds about right.
The reason companies may be reluctant to reveal pricing is because they’d get customers seeing the video years later and still expecting the costs to be the same, when parts/materials/Labour/energy costs go up and down all the time.
These guys are just an absolute wealth of knowledge...
Mike consistently shares those truths and secrets that many in the various segments of the automotive engineering world he works in, try to hold tight.
That was exactly what I wanted to know. I know these are "generalized" prices but that ballpark is fantastic. Thank you!
Mike is extremely educated, precise and smart as fvck. Takes pride in his work and his knowledge and insight goes to show
spent a couple hours just trying to see what will get me to 400hp if i ever get there couldnt find anything other than keyboard warriors this man just throws the information out there good looks🤙
Facts.
lmao NRE be like ls2 engine thats a start....but have you heard of the LS3....or the 327+ boost +_+. Me like NOOO we want 400 with the smallest engine footprint as far as weight, weight ratio, and even headers/turbo manifold XD. NRE Well The LS is all aluminum.....and the ls fanboyism ensues. I laugh when ppl talk "BUILDS" with v8s as if half the fanbois dont realize the amount on auto trans for the strip....vs the cost of a BUILT 6 spd+dif......its so ironic. As they talk cost to HP ratios.......smdh
@@anhiirr To be fair. LS's are far FAR superior to almost any engine in terms of price, power, weight, size, commonality and most importantly, RELIABILITY. Sure, there are many engines that might beat the LS in one or two of those categories, but nothing comes close to beating it in all of them.
If you want to go fast just buy a bike then come back to your 400hp
Hmmm. I'm going with IAG 750 shirt block for $5000 that starts with a brand new block.
I was 425 WHP with drop in CP pistons on my original short block.
I plan on around 475 WHP so I dont break anything...
07' STi
What a professionally performed video, I really like the way you cover the top end builds as well as the budget guy. most people just want a simple build with longevity whilst the race guys want the same thing at the other end of the scale. Being able to fairly price your products can only be justified with experienced people like yourselves, that know engines inside out and explaining the reasons why you need or don't need upgraded parts. This video covers it all. Well done Mike and Martin.
This was such a transparent and direct video, absolutely amazing. The realistic project costing and detailed explanation was great. I can't thank you enough for doing this. Could y'all do a similar video on a k24? I know there are a lot of variants out there.
Glad it was helpful!
27:40
What I think Mike is talking about with high cycle fatigue is what happens to loose bicycle spokes. When the dynamic load is light the bolt will relax enough that it goes out of tension or stays in very light tension. Then when the dynamic load is increased the bolt will stretch back into the proper tension range. This constant cycling of going from relaxed to tense will develop micro cracks in the bolt and eventually lead to failure, usually at sharp corners like the threads or bolt head. A properly tightened bolt will stay stressed enough in light dynamic loads to not relax enough to promote micro cracking. Resistance to micro cracking is known as notch resistance, and 4340 steel has excellent notch resistance.
It’s like any trade / professional, there’s always someone willing to do it cheaper but you get what you pay for.
If I ever one day have the money to build my STi, I will definitely be talking to you guys. Fantastic, informative, transparent, well-presented series of videos without a speck of unnecessary over-production typical of RUclipsrs.
Every garage needs a Mike.
Great transparency guys. Not many places offer info like this for free. Another great video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Taking the time to choose the correct bearings and being upfront about it is a testament to the skill and honesty of motoIQ
I don't know much about engine builds yet, but this was a great and informative video showing options that I would have.
Thanks MotoIQ!
If the work and parts don’t last and they don’t do what you expect. You didn’t save money. This is a comprehensive and well thought out video. Thank you all at MotoIQ
Absolutely can't get enough of your videos so informational everything in which you speak of you just exude confidence which gives me full confidence in trusting what you say to continue to keep my Subaru strong and healthy and lasting as long as possible and like many many other comments as much as I love my current builder I have absolutely no issues with currently running iag stage 2 tough short block FP black turbo at about 24 PSI and couldn't be happier with the car approaching that 20,000 mile mark on the build absolutely no issues right around 575 awhp but when I'm ready to go closed deck and get into that next power level I definitely want to have you guys build it for me I just absolutely love the above and beyond not cutting corners all of the extremely precise machining and engineering and all of the knowledge that you have acquired over the years of r&d and I'm sure some trial and error LOL. Will be looking forward to that experience.
These are proper engine builders. Much respect
wish you guys were in Australia. Been in the motor trade most of my life and I am well able to pick the good actors out there. Thank you for all of the invaluable and highly technical information you have put out there on the EJ series Subaru motors. Cheers from Australia "Mate" Smashed the sub and likes on all the vids,
If you are going to WTAC come and say hi! I will be with the Evasive team.
Damnnnnn....awesome video! I would have loved to have had access to y'alls EJ videos a year ago when I was having to spec a full rebuild for my blown motor. Great content and I love the transparent, no BS communication style.
Thanks so much for including our EJ Performance Oiling Products in your video, we really appreciate it! Keep up the good work!
Thank you for the well engineered products!
I never fail to learn something when I watch your channel. Thank you.
I watch all your videos for the most part and you guys to me are the most informative and knowledgeable about Subaru Motors you guys are amazing appreciate you guys very much
While a lot of the processes and component upgrades would likely be the same, I would love to hear your advice on Subaru’s FA platform, and how to make good reliable power with it.
Super stoked about this video. I've been hesitating about sending an email for the longest time just because I didn't feel like wasting your guys time with basic questions.
The way I see it, never do bare minimum. If you want 400-450 then build it to hold far beyond that. I enjoy watching these videos a lot. You guys are Very knowledgeable
I’m pretty new to the 4cyl builds but even v8s you want 500 you build for 750 to make it a “daily” reliable build
@@BobbyB910 a lot of people try to make it seem like you can’t build a monster block, and baby it for a long time. And by baby it I mean don’t track and launch. I just want fun longevity
@@Visca_Motion_Pictures I’ve had a Nissan ka24de last 75k stock unopened on 17psi I just changed the oil and didn’t beat it all the time just some highway spirited driving
@@Visca_Motion_Pictures I’m new to the ej but I’m looking forward to it I have a Outback sport 2009 and I’m getting all the parts for a STI swap I’m planning on 350ish and just have a fun daily
@@BobbyB910 that sounds like a awesome build ! And a great plan. Good luck I hope everything works out for you💪🏼❤️
Excellent video guys - content is perfect for anyone wanting to build an EJ engine. Thanks for the team at Kelford Cams
This is a gold mine for anyone who has warranty issues with their STi’s or has the unfortunate experience of having to work directly with Subaru of America’s “Customer Advocates”
Super interesting video and smarter marketing idea. Most people don't want a maxed out build for track, they may want a little more reliable power for the street and improving and correcting flaws from the factory.
I love the transparency of the costs of the work.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video and share it with me!👍🏼😊
My little Subaru needs some love and I don't know exactly what sort. I dream that one day I can get a shop with this much expertise to help me out
Enjoyed the first video, love the huge smile, must love his work. 2nd video answering questions from the 1st. Thx guys
How many times have we watched this video? Mike reruns are the best reruns.
Great to see transparency for their customers
Bro how tf is there price lower for a 400~450hp engine build, than what my neighborhood shop charges for just a headgasket replacement??? 💀.... God I love motoIQ
Would you all ever consider building an engine for a highway tractor? CAT, Cummins, Detroit? I think a lot of guys would pay extra for your level of detail to go 1.5 million miles without opening it back up...
The WPC and cryo treatment sounds really appealing for the rest of the drivetrain too...
Well, that inframe that now averages $30k will no doubt go to $40-45k+
I have been an owner operator and know what the bills look like. Some things like balancing and blueprinting should be done, possibly ceramic coating the piston tops if you're adding fuel and boost. The WPC treatment should be done to the differentials. Just reducing the friction should pick up .3 or better mpg. Anything to reduce drag in the driveline will make the truck run better.
We could tackle it. A motor is a motor.
@@motoiq you could tap into a new market. Finding a good engine builder in the truck world is tough. The emission style diesels are wiping out in 500k or so because of the EGR systems and tuning.
@@hoost3056 they are going to urea injection and away from high volume EGR now right?
@@motoiq I think they're exclusively using DEF and SCR systems now. I can't remember what year that was introduced. I think most manufacturers are still using EGR. The DPF isn't going anywhere though.
They're taking the shotgun approach to emissions and because of that it's still somewhat unrefined, to my knowledge none of them will go more than 500k without major service, most are more of a headache than that. A lot of the old non emissions engines can easily go a million miles, a million and half is doable but takes a lot of care.
Thanks for taking an interest in serving the professional driver, at least ones that never see a race track
Love that you are all honest about the pricing range
Love how you didn't rush and talked through this thoroughly.
Why use an Eagle crank over an OEM Nitrated crank? I Understand the Eagle is billet vs Forged Steel (OEM) but crank failure is not a high failure rate. Just looking at it from the cost POV. Eagle beeing $1200 and OEM Being around $350. Great video and looking forward to seeing more!
Because of the stroke. The stock crank is a pretty good part.
@@motoiq just to understand your using the 85mm crank vs the 79mm to achieve a better rod to stroke ratio? Did not see a mention of size so just curious 😅🙏
@@Smeedia 83mm crank vs stock 75mm crank
Fancy seeing you over here!
What a great video. Exactly what people would like to know. I'm here in Aus so I understand pricing is a little different but I think your pricing and explanations were great and exactly what people want to know. All the best guys will like and subscribe to help!
Great info. 69 retired lineman, fixed income just getting by. 2006 sti stock w/spt add ons, enjoy the car , tuf on the pocket regarding premium fuel. 140,000 miles. God bless America. Paz y salud
Excellent video guys. I have 2003 Subaru WRX and 2017 Subaru STI. Please keep posting video a fan from Central Texas. Merry Christmas
Happy holidays!
I remember replacing the oil pickup tube on my 2004 Stage 2 Pro-tuned STi, just to make sure it doesn't crack and kills my engine.
My engine builder recommended a brand new case from Subaru. For the price of machine work compared to a new case it's worth it. This was for a street/reliable/daily driven build. Needed a rebuild and wanted to build something for if and when I decided to add more power, I didn't have to open the engine back up.(never had a chance too)
This was back in 2018.
Came to around 8,000 USD this was from Rallispec in new Jersey, great company and a good builder Vince. Mind you this was about 5 years ago and a lot has changed since then, pricing wise in the world.
New OEM block and crank, Rallispec h-std rods by saenz, Manley pistons/rings, and kings bearings. 550hp rated. $3,000
Engine removal and install $800
Engine teardown/reassemble $1200
Timing belt gates kit. $240
Exedy stage 1 clutch/flywheel. $900
ARP 2000 head studs. $200
Engine gasket set. $290
IAG- performance series air/oil separator with labor. $550
Cylinder head machining. $200 (cut me a huge break. It needed valves and they had a used set laying around and put them in for free
Very happy with the build. They also removed the air pump and put a tune on my AP to remove the check engine light.
Sadly the car was totaled about a year later by a kid running a stop sign and t-boning me which push my car straight into a heavy duty street sign. I was doing about 55mph with no seatbelt on and walked away with a small cut on my leg.
My 2011 wrx was totalled and since I didn't add the motor work onto my insurance, they wouldn't give me any extra money for it..
Insurance paid the car off and I got like 7k in my pocket maybe? after buying the car back for 2500. I then traded it to a friend for a 04 Forester. He actually fixed the WRX and sold it to someone we work with lol. I see that car every day and it makes my stomach turn...
New cases often have to be align bored.
@@motoiq it was probably done then I'm assuming. Only meant for the price of the machining and the time some builders prefer to buy a new case is all. Great video! Enjoy watching these types of videos
Great breakdown, answers all my questions. Baller build it is.
$675 is still a lot less than $1100 for new case halves, and, you probably end up with better clearances than stock case halves. The problem is so few machine shops can be trusted to do Subaru case halves correctly.
Exactly!
Mike is a gentleman and a scholar
I live in Texas. When my STi blows up I’ll be shipping it to you guys for the new block.
Golden information for Subi owners.
Great video. Anyone that considers Bader the leading edge of Subaru’s needs to watch this. #Baderblown
NEW SUB! Liked!
I have a 2020 STI that I’m gonna build eventually after warranty is over. But I’ll start saving for the build from now. So when I contact you guys, I’ll be 100% ready.
BTW
Great content and info, keep it up!
i Smashed that like button! shared and commented for the algorithm !
A nice wrap up video to the EJ series. Thanks for the info on the Beryllium valves seats. I do work with some of that in aerospace (it has some really cool properties, even though it can be hazardous when machining).
I was wondering if you had a preferred supplier and is it the copper-beryllium alloy?
Check out Del West and Dura Bond. Lately we have been experimenting with Copper Nickel alloys which give most of the benefits of Beryllium without the toxicity issues.
@@motoiq You have an almost 0% chance of anything bad happening with Beryllium due to toxicity, You would have to snort a line of it about a quarter pound in weight. In the Army i had to work with it a ton, grinding it, sanding and so forth.
@@Turbolious !remindme 20 years to see if this dude died of cancer
@@Turbolious ah, random youtube commenter vs. facts about Berylliosis.
"Sensitization to beryllium may develop rapidly or several years after initial beryllium exposure, resulting in an increased risk of chronic berylliosis". Look it up. Similar to asbestos, it won't kill you instantly but it will affect you in the long run.
2011 wrx 6 spd swapped to stock motor with 160k miles. Its weird, take care of something and it will last. Huh. I do recommend oil pickup tho and baffled pan so you can have fun. 😊
I had a quick question! Where did you source your 6 speed swapped parts? I got a 13 wrx hatch that wants some love ❤
Thank you for bringing Subaru connect to the field. I’m a die hard Subaru fan even though there’s a lot of hate towards them.
Most is undeserved ignorance, they have had some issues through the years ! but most of it is the way the cars are treated or tuned and maintained
I've been using eagle products for years. Never had parts fail on me.
I love all your videos, specially this one about the EJ engine
I own a 2006 Hawkeye STI. And that is my plan for the future to build a engine. Keep those videos coming, thanks 👍😁
you basically cant , as i asked above you can go ahead and assemble it yourself but your still going to end up sending it in to get machined so you might as well buy a prebuilt staged engine to save yourself some money . big shops like this can handle the builds but "home builders" just cant complete the proper build without help from a credible shop .
@@bigbodykarate6403 yep its the same as ppl with semi/street ported 12A FB's.....i can try to buy a stock FB all i want or even an auto and swap a manual trans....and all the parts for a "built" 12A rotary...but its essentially IMPOSSIBLE right in line with "you basically cant" bc of the huge NEED of Porting and ideal valves in the EJ case.....and porting in the 12A....and even worse for NA/rotary is how much FLOW they need and how its all supposed to be concurrent with your intake/runners....and matched to an equal length/depth header system....you upgrade to a different carb....boom the headers/exhaust becomes an issue based on the fact that the carbs wont function ideally bc of the PORTING+exhaust/header system being perfectly matched to the previous carb/intake when TUNED/built prior to any post "build" upgrade. Same if you want to run a specific exhaust system/custom etc.....or if you find some EPIC authentic parts even titanium...youd wind up having to hack them up, to find the best back pressure in a turbo system that is now stroked, and machine/ported. For the proper fuel/air ratio for proper/reliable power. The amount of cost alone in this tuning/fab process ruins the cost aspect/efficacy of the build....like you said "were" better off buying pre builts....esp bc theyve already been tuned....be it NA like a rotary or even a V8....the "OPTIONS" for ideal headers or head flow is already blue printed with these pre-built engines too which really helps with cost...vs people trying to buy up parts xyz from various build vids/forum posts theyve seen...ultimately not needing 1/2 to even most of them bc of the MACHINING process and aspect to compression/porting/exhaust and flow at the end of the tuning stage.
Dude I'm down to pay you guys!! Thamk you for the value. I literally will sell all my shit and move to where you guys are and be an apprentice. Thanks again for all you're valuable info you guys are putting out there! You guys are Rockstar status
think i just saw the best video on the net.
Very cool, wish you guys were in New Zealand :) keep on boxing guys love listening to intelligent content and folk!!!
If you guys were in canada i would gladly go to you! At the budget build its a steal!
Love the transparency
Good to know I don’t need to do anything crazy to keep it reliable. Forged pistons / good rods / bearings / Oil upgrades. I just want 350 reliable horsepower :)
Great video and information, been looking for info like this, been thinking of this for my JDM EJ20
Holy crap, when Mike was talking about 2/1000th of inch misalignment in machining and how it is a prevalent problem in fly by night shops... my stomach started to turn.
Priceless information, huge thanks for this video
Glad you enjoyed it!
Your straightforward attitude at the end of the video was perfect. I have an 04 wrx. 202k... I know she is due...
Thanks guys, appreciate all of the content you’ve created on the EJ and the GD build. Have you built an EJ motor and sent it to Australia before?
Not yet but we could.
Makes me wonder what the average life of their blocks are cause they def know what they are talking about
I’m impressed
I wish I could have Mike help me with a build.im from Oregon and I have been screwed by a few shops in the last year..Mike really seems to know the EJ engine
This info is super helpful as I’m building a jdm ej205 using the balanced crankshaft from flat irons tuning.
Great video and info!
11:55 I Iove how Mike sticks to the truth
Your pricing is right on par with what I tell my customers about $5000 per hole plus or minus 15%.... if you want the best
The bald dude is the budget build and Mike is the baller build! Nice video fellas . Thank you !
Man I live this videos, want to build my F24c in the future, going to try and do the maximum with Motoiq, even though I'm overseas.
Mike ringland failure is really a bummer. Can you recommend somebody in the inland empire that builds engines like you guys?
I don't know.
@@motoiq I sent a message via Web site.
When Mike mentioned custom fixturing for holding the components while being machined, I knew even more so than before, that he is indeed the most thorough blue-printer and builder in the states. Custom work holding and fixturing is the most important consideration. Does anyone know if Moto IQ will be offering naturally aspirated engine blue printing for the 2022 GR86? Thanks.
We can but simple blueprinting won't yield much on a modern stock engine. Engines are built to much tighter tolerances than they were 20 years ago due to advances in machining technology. We are careful when machining an engine to new tolerances but just taking apart and redoing a perfectly fine running stock engine to blueprint it isnt worth the expense. Most machine shops cannot hold as tight tolerances as OEM now days. We can build the FA engine so if you need to, hit use up.
you guys are amazing and i might be sending my ej205 your way soon!!!!!!!
I love the honesty now time to save money
Awesome details and love the ballpark for budgeting my build. Too bad subie makes such junk engines that u gotta dump 7k to fix it before it blows up
you guys are awesome. great video!
This is actually very reasonable pricing. I once built my own motor with 350. It blew up immediately. Like a month. Pay the experts.
Love the video's, you guys have so much knowledge.
Great info! Thanks guys for doing this. Makes for great business too.
I really like this info, even being late to the videos. I blew the gearbox on my -05 wrx ( big surprise ), and in fixing that (installing a 6spd) I might just put on a slightly bigger turbo, which could put a clock on the poor ej205 in there, having done 120' miles. New turbo is a kinugawa twin scroll to keep response and gain a bit of top range, going from the 260-280 crank to 300-320 ).
My wrx have never taken any oil. The car I got while I fix my wrx, a forester -07 xt, I was told takes a bit of oil, but it is fun with a vf48 and a remap...
I might contact you about planning the future engine for my wrx, at some point it will break.
Mean vids from you guys chur thank you very much
Love this channel 💯
I went with IAG, for one I never heard of these guys until now, not their fault. Just how big the world is. But two, IAG is just another great engine maker. BUt this video was great. Good job MOtoIQ
We are also an IAG dealer
I've been waiting to find this
Thank you so much for these vidoe and for the budget build option! On my bucket list lol
Great video and impressive attention to details and sorting out weaknesses in the EJ 205.
I have an ‘02WRX Wagon.
Burned exhaust valve ✅ at 176k which several of the exhaust valves thinned out by that point.
A few layers of bearing layers missing on either a rod or main bearing. Early crank with fewer oiling holes.
Some little cracks between spark plug holes and valve seats, triggered new heads.
Original hone crosshatch still intact in all cylinders - Mobil 1 - 10w30@5k.
Just one track day but a significant number of spirited corners :)
I wanted the updated crank - so got a factory short block, new heads..
Dealer reused cylinder head studs bolts, oil pump, oil cooler, cams,
New short block had much finer hone - usually running Mobil 1 5w30
265k miles on vehicle about 90 k on new motor mild tune stage one on motor since about 10k original miles.
Doesn’t use oil ~
I’d be quite tempted to go with the nice valve job, balancing, etc knowledge on the next build if i keep my car for another ten years :)
Local machine shop peened out the above mentioned cracks in the original heads, is that a fix your shop is ok with?
What is the longevity of forged pistons in a mild tuned stock turbo car? Equal to oem pistons?
Also interested in the oil pan & pickup, are these compatible with a cusco style front under brace?
We would not reuse those heads, straight in the trash. Forged pistons don't last as long as OEM, but the Subaru OEM pistons are very weak. Subaru engines are fragile in there own way, you can't cut corners. The pan and pickup are are compatible with a Cusco underbrace.
@@motoiq about how many miles would forged pistons last in a mildly tuned car? No more than 300whp?
I watched your video on exhausts too.
I’m running stock cats from the turbo back with a 2.5 inch prodrive straight through muffler.
Wondering if a bigger intermediate pipe with resonator would make much of a difference keeping stock cats and prodrive axle back?
Thanks ✨
Something like 100k miles. I mean it will go much longer but wear in the ring grooves and still will cause a gradual decline in compression and an increase in oil burning. With Subarus you have to be careful with mods and no tuning. I think a mid-pipe should be ok but not a downpipe.
Wow Thanks guys one day ill get to rebuild my forester to a budget build 🙏🏽
Thanks for the details. Love it
Well reality for a great build set in. Thanks for the information.
IAG short blocks are also a pretty good option
Mike is the man
it's got to be shop fitted 100% especially if you want sport performance, everything balanced
My closed deck engine build not including the turbo or exhaust or intake upgrades involved was about $20k including labor and tune etc
You could do worse for more 😂 sounds like you got one bad ass boxer now and I'm sure it handles like a dream
Great vid guys