Thanks for posting Scott, just ordered the invis basic kit and an extra package of the longer studs for it this morning. Have to do an over the post railing on a five tread winder and balcony next week. Thanks for the tutorial. Not sure i would've bought the invis without seeing you use it. Keep up the good work and wish me luck. Cheers, Jay
Yes, good luck Jay. I'm sure you'll do fine. I haven't done an over-the-post railing in a long time. That said I'm doing a railing-to-easing-to-turn job right now. Time consuming for sure. Hope the Invis works out for you. It is a really good way to get things glued up nice. Thank you for the comment and the compliment. All the best, Scott
I have used a combination of 2p10 and wood glue. I've only done it on pieces with a larger surface area. I spot glue (dime size or smaller) the accelerator and glue in corresponding spots. I glue the rest of the wood with TB 2, one side of the work piece only. I work quickly to push the pieces together, clamping with hand pressure for 15 seconds or so. I leave them overnight and install the next day. So far the joints have held up. I don't have any long term data on this technique
Thank you Matt. I have been experimenting myself as well. I think the key is also using regular carpenters glue in conjunction - like Titebond. I've had a few joints on trim come apart when done with 2P-10 without any pins or brads added.
I’ve had luck with the Cyanoacrylate Glue and excelerator with MDF, not so much with pine or other natural words, the MDF allows the glue to soak into the material
Did you use the accelarator with only the carpenters glue or did you use it in combination with the carpenters glue & the CA glue? I use CA glue with accelerator all the time but have never once thought to use it with carpenters glue only if thats what you did.
Yes I tried it with the carpenters glue alone. A friend who is a very good finishing carpenter told me about it, so I thought I'd give it a try. I will have to experiment with it and do a time test to see if it actually works with carpenters glue. Cheers, Scott
That has to be the coolest fastening system I've seen but at that price tag it wouldn't make sense for me to purchase it. Hopefully fresh cuts, adequate clamping, 2 dowels, a few finish nails, wood glue, and a bit of filler will do the trick. I need to build a step up of about 1' then curve at 90 degrees and wrap back into the wall in two stairwells. The cheap 1960's base grade railing that only runs the straight sections doesn't fit the 1930's charm of the home. Thank you for sharing your tips on getting a perfect cut!
Sounds like you're a pro! Railing work takes lots of skill and patience (and a bit of luck sometimes too). Yes the Invis is spendy, but if you're doing work for customers you can slowly recoup the cost. Thanks for the comment!
I'm planning to install a modern handrail that doesn't come in an s-curve. Any reason I couldn't just miter it to achieve a similar effect? I know aesthetics are a matter of taste and it also depends on the handrail pattern, but in your experience does this approach look ok?
Hi Paul, You absolutely can do them that way. I've done them in the past. Not sure if I have enough footage to make a video on it but I will check. Let me know if you have any more questions. Cheers, Scott
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47 years as a carpenter/builder/remodeler and learning new techniques seemingly every day! Excellent!!
Gary that's exactly how I feel. There are so many new tools and techniques that you never stop learning if you have the desire.
Thanks for posting Scott, just ordered the invis basic kit and an extra package of the longer studs for it this morning.
Have to do an over the post railing on a five tread winder and balcony next week.
Thanks for the tutorial. Not sure i would've bought the invis without seeing you use it.
Keep up the good work and wish me luck.
Cheers, Jay
Yes, good luck Jay. I'm sure you'll do fine. I haven't done an over-the-post railing in a long time. That said I'm doing a railing-to-easing-to-turn job right now. Time consuming for sure. Hope the Invis works out for you. It is a really good way to get things glued up nice. Thank you for the comment and the compliment. All the best, Scott
I like how you cut the S-bend while glued to the sheetgood for a perfect joint. 🤔 masterful indeed.
Thank you Timothy. Yes that is a game-saver technique for sure!
I have used a combination of 2p10 and wood glue. I've only done it on pieces with a larger surface area. I spot glue (dime size or smaller) the accelerator and glue in corresponding spots. I glue the rest of the wood with TB 2, one side of the work piece only. I work quickly to push the pieces together, clamping with hand pressure for 15 seconds or so. I leave them overnight and install the next day. So far the joints have held up. I don't have any long term data on this technique
Thank you Matt. I have been experimenting myself as well. I think the key is also using regular carpenters glue in conjunction - like Titebond. I've had a few joints on trim come apart when done with 2P-10 without any pins or brads added.
I’ve had luck with the Cyanoacrylate Glue and excelerator with MDF, not so much with pine or other natural words, the MDF allows the glue to soak into the material
Thank you for that information. Cheers Scott
Did you use the accelarator with only the carpenters glue or did you use it in combination with the carpenters glue & the CA glue? I use CA glue with accelerator all the time but have never once thought to use it with carpenters glue only if thats what you did.
Yes I tried it with the carpenters glue alone. A friend who is a very good finishing carpenter told me about it, so I thought I'd give it a try. I will have to experiment with it and do a time test to see if it actually works with carpenters glue. Cheers, Scott
That has to be the coolest fastening system I've seen but at that price tag it wouldn't make sense for me to purchase it. Hopefully fresh cuts, adequate clamping, 2 dowels, a few finish nails, wood glue, and a bit of filler will do the trick. I need to build a step up of about 1' then curve at 90 degrees and wrap back into the wall in two stairwells. The cheap 1960's base grade railing that only runs the straight sections doesn't fit the 1930's charm of the home. Thank you for sharing your tips on getting a perfect cut!
Sounds like you're a pro! Railing work takes lots of skill and patience (and a bit of luck sometimes too). Yes the Invis is spendy, but if you're doing work for customers you can slowly recoup the cost. Thanks for the comment!
Masterful!
Thank you so much for that comment!
I'm planning to install a modern handrail that doesn't come in an s-curve. Any reason I couldn't just miter it to achieve a similar effect?
I know aesthetics are a matter of taste and it also depends on the handrail pattern, but in your experience does this approach look ok?
Hi Paul, You absolutely can do them that way. I've done them in the past. Not sure if I have enough footage to make a video on it but I will check. Let me know if you have any more questions. Cheers, Scott
Great
Thank you!
accelerator is for cyanoacrylate glues.
@@timairborne5813 thank you.