How To Remove Splined Cranks (ISIS Drive/Octalink) With Standard Puller?
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- Опубликовано: 2 июл 2020
- The standard crank pullers are designed to extract square taper cranks, the tip of the tool is smaller and it goes through the square-hole of the crank, pushes the bottom bracket spindle and pull the crank at the same time.
The standard tool won’t work on splined cranks because the tip is too small and it will go through the splined spindle on the bottom bracket.
To remove splined (ISIS Drive, Octalink) crank arms using the standard tool, take out the rubber from the crank bolt, put it back in and tighten it as much as you can, this would give some space to insert the hex nut. To get the hex nut, remove the stud from the standard crank puller, thread it into crank and tighten until snug.
Take the 8mm hex wrench and locate the crank bolt, turn it counterclockwise to loosen it.
The bolt will push the hex nut on top of it and it will loosen the crank eventually.
Do exactly the same thing on the other side
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Good idea, but as some others mentioned below, if you only get 2-3 threads of purchase with the hex nut, this method can just strip the interior threads of the crank. Alternatively, you can keep the cap bolt in the other side and drop in a few small ratchet adapters (or some steel rod of appropriate length). Then use the standard puller to back the crank out.
Dude, this is really helpful. I was gonna go buy some tools but since octalinks are not really used anymore, it is kinda hard to find local stores that sell them. Thank you so much, you saved me a lot of trouble
This is genius sh*t. One of the best workarounds and money savers I've seen on the web, and I'm a bike mechanic, who has worked on hundreds of bikes, but doesn't have the money to go out and buy a tool every time I find a bike with a particular problem. I have been dreading dealing with the Octalink V2 ever since I got a 2001 Jamis Dakar Expert with a crunchy noisse in the BB, but this has made removal doable without spending bucks. BTW, I was concerned about thread stripping, but, just be careful not to cross thread. It worked like a charm for me.
After watching multiple videos and trying multiple things, this is finally what worked for me. Took a little to figure out what was actually going on, but when I did, pop, the thing came off finally!
Oh good tip mate!. You’ve just saved my crank from the angle grinder!😁. 👍🏻
Thank you very much for the video. I thought I was going to have to spend the money and buy yet another crank puller tool and wait 10 days for it to come. All this just so I could change my small chainring on my triple crankset. I did have to cut the tip off from my old Sugino crank extractor so that I could remove the center bolt. I was a little worried that the tool wasn't engaging enough threads. But I gritted my teeth and moved ever so slowly and carefully. And then, voila! The crank was off without damaging the threads.
This is brilliant, worked great for me! I had contemplated doing a "self puller" (well, "pusher", actually) method by carefully sizing and cutting a short metal rod, inserting it in the hollow octalink bb tube, and tightening the crank bolt to push on the crank bolt on the other side via the rod, but your method was much better! No rod required! Even with your method, I was a little concerned about stripping threads on the crank arm or even the puller, since not many threads were engaged. So I put high pressure grease on the crank bolt threads and the surfaces contacting the puller to minimize friction, maybe this helped. Both arms came off smoothly, but requiring enough effort to trouble me a little. I was afraid I was smoothly stripping the threads! But... not so! They had been on the bike 15 years. Thanks!
I never thought of that, turning it into a self extracting crank setup. To make things work better, make sure that the crank extractor piece and also the crank bolt head are clean, apply some grease to the surfaces which would contact each other.
Necessity is the mother of inventions...and brilliant DIY soutions that does'nt cost a cent. Cheers mate!
I was trying find a way to remove the washer inside the crank so I could use a Park CWP-7 for this job. That wasn’t working so I searched again and found this solution! Thank you!
This is such an awesome work around, thanks for sharing !
Wow man, thank you very much, You saved me from buying a tool or spending time and money going to my local bike shop. I finally was able to do it by myself watching your video. Thanks so much! 🙏🏽
Worked perfectly! One arm came right off the other arm needed a little penetrating oil and it came right off as well! Thanks
Thanks, everything turned out nicely.
Just wanted to add to the positive comments. I did exactly this, exactly as you said and it worked a treat. I have a 105 crank, so long as the nut from the crank remover is tightened fully and you go slow on the removal it should work a treat. Obviously this depends just how stuck your crank is.
Thank you so much for this. Tried using a 3 arm gear puller recommended from another video to no avail because my crankset has no grooves for the puller to grab onto. The threads on my cranks are stripper halfway down so with this method i was able to push from a higher position since i couldn't screw the crank tool all the way down.
Thank you!! You saved me so much headaches and money
Sir... you have saved my day!
Thank you very much i did this and it worked had to use the long end off a hex key and a large spanner to give it leverage carefully ...it worked
This worked perfectly. You're a genius, Thanks!
Thank you so much! It was a big help and a new thing learned
Thank you so much for this very helpful video!
Excellent hack, thank you!
Finally a video that helped, top job thank you
Definitely worth leaving a comment. Thank you so much for this video! Pure genius!
Bloody genius mate!!! Thanks a lot 🔥!
Great tip. Thanks, helped a lot
I was looking for that for so long, thanks man!
thanks! this method worked really well!
Thank you very mach for the video - perfect inspiration
You’re my lifesaver!!!
Very Helpful!!!
Great video
thank you very much! , this worked perfectly for me!
Dude! Thank you so much!
What do you do if the arm has no more threads for the coupler to grab?
Brilliant - Thanks!
Thank you, this got me out of a spot.
Smart work! Thank's!
great job!
You get a thumbs up and a thank-you!
👍
Yoooo you are the best , thank you!
Thank you!!!
Thank you very much, it works great for me!!!💪🤝👍🎉
Brilliant. 👍👍
Thank you solved my problem can't find like this type of crank how to remove and now I'm happy 😂😁
Although this method works I found the best way is to insert a 12mm rod or threaded stud inside the crank for the normal puller to push against. Remove the plug from one side, insert the rod, cut the rod so that it is flush with the crank. You can now use a puller in the normal way. Once you pull one side, insert the plug back in and remove the other side. Just remember to remove the rod before re-assembly.
Nice, thanks for sharing.
Thanks! For he job at hand two lengths of thread/rod were cut for each side, as they press against an off centre flange internal of the bottom bracket. Worked a treat.
Dude, you're gonna have to draw a picture or make a video for dummies.
Thanks a lot 🙏
use a standard puller, but put a fat washer inside the crank hole....now the standard crank puller stud will push on the larger washer
Thank you
Great hack
Thanks a lot!!!!!!!
My hero
thanks
Legend 😎
i really can't find a word to describe how thankful i am for this solution , very good brther and god bless you 👏
You just solved my answer my friend 🤔
Bob on that my old mucker 👍
Nice👍👍
Thanks!
If the Octalink is tight you could you strip the outer threads as you turn the Allen
key CCW.
Not with this method, not the threads of the crank. In fact using the correct tool for this job will potentially do even more damage to the thread of the crank. Now the dust cover bolt… if it’s like this race face one here there will be no damage since it’s metal but maybe on a crappy one it could be an issue.
good idea, but won't always work; my octalink had a 10mm hex and the key wouldn't fit thru the crank puller. however I found I could drop a 16mm wide round cap bolt into the crank and tighten the standard puller down on it, which I could then use normally to push on the crank.
Did not work for me, it sheared off half of threads from inside my crank, because the nut was too shallow.
Well, ain't that some god damned old fashioned nifty shit right there
Love the utopia/orgasm music coming in as the 1x goes on, 4:22.
Thank you sooo much!
Where can I buy new ISIS Cranks
Check Chainreactioncycles, eBay, Amazon...
This doesn't always work, especially on octalink cranks. Be careful, otherwise you run the risk of stripping the extractor ir crankarm threads
I jus did
I have another method by using the Rear Derailleur bolt like from Tourney RD. 😁
Nice, thanks for letting us know. 😃
Will this work on square tapered?
Yes, simply use this tool to remove the square taper crankset.
@@DanyoSports I mean my thread is damaged.. Will this method work?
No unfortunately, this method won’t work, you’ll need to retap the thread.
doesn't work for me striped the thread cheers
Had the same thing happen to the crank's threads until i took off that metal washer from the hex screw and tightened it like he says in the video
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Pow pow pow u really are macguyvr 😂😂😂
wont work on the drive side - just gave it a try and no use...
Doesn't work on octilink
I would only use the correct tool
Be careful, this method ripped the threads out my crank arm.
Make that 2 people. My extractor couldn't get enough teeth engaged. It's definitely damaged but I can get extractor on there with patience to not crossthread
Same here with an old deore crankset, the metal seems so soft just ripped the threads out while turning the 8mm allen key bolt
How did you guys solved the problem? My crank is stuck now.
@@dragoscatan489i never manage to get it off, but i changed my middle chainring by unbolting all the rings. I would try a car mechanic, to use a jaw puller tool with wd40, if that might work?
@@dragoscatan489 I ended up buying the proper tool from my local bike shop. With some patience, I was able to thread the tool into whatever threads remained
Tried this way and it pulled the thread out of the crank, so get your self the right tool or take to the bike shop
Terima kasih..semoga anda dapat hidayah dari allohu ta"ala..amiiin .
Terima kasih telah menonton.
coins and washwers are too weak. use a washer between a bolt and a nut
Stripped my threads with this method 🤦♂️
please level the volume! The musc at rhe end is blaring loud compard to rest Hurt my ears. Essy way to anger viewers
No I''m sorry this won't fly, use the RIGHT tool for the job ALWAYS