A very useful and instructive video but something important to add is that the lever that raises the blade must be in position 0 before starting the calibration process.
This is a really good video. He explains everything thoroughly and in easy to understand terms. The video shows crystal clear close-ups and the shots of the adjustment procedures are some of the best I've seen on the internet. I like this instructor because he doesn't act like a goof or try to get you to watch his video with a dumb gimmick. Special thanks to Tommy for taking his time to make and post this video.
Thanks to this video I was able to fix my jointer. After sharpening my blades, I started getting a lot of tear out. After watching this I fixed my blade alignement and it fixed it.
I’m glad you found it helpful. Another thing to consider (for tear out) is to check your grain direction. You may know that already, but just in case you don’t. If you send a piece through and it gets tear out, flip it around and send the other end through first. I hope this helps!
I've had this jointer for a while and it is time for new cutter blades. Thanks for doing an excellent job of showing me how to replace them. Well done.
I have this jointer and had the same jointer when it was sold under the Delta brand. Two things you're never told you're going to need when replacing the knives are an extra holder bolt or two and a screw extractor. Almost without exception at least one of the allen slots strips out. Both jointers, every time.
Excellent video! I just bought the Delta version of the same model (used) and the blades that came with it were trashed and needed replacing. This will help greatly.
I am new to woodworking and have been days trying to figure out why I can't get my boards to cut right. This video has most likely determined the reason why. Thanks so much!!!
I haven’t needed to remove mine yet and I was a little concerned doing it properly. It was a great instructional video, now I feel more confident about removing and reinstalling the blades now that I’ve seen your video. Keep up the great work and keep the videos coming.
Have tried other methods and still ended up with snipe on the end. Using the procedure described by you, I completely removed the snipe. Very helpful!!
Thanks for this video Tommy! I don’t own a planer, but it really is because I was afraid it would take more knowledge than I had to maintain it. You have demystified the planer and now I will consider getting one some point in the future.
No problem, Lisa! If you do get a jointer (this style, or another), let me know how it goes! I was thinking I might do another video showing how to set the blades for jointers that don't have a cutter-head lock. Keep me posted!
Very helpful video. I have this same jointer and never knew the blades were adjustable. I’m just a hobbyist woodworker but I’ve watched a lot of videos on how to eliminate snipe. Many of the people who made videos would benefit from watching this one. I’ve seen them recommend everything from cutting your workpiece a couple inches longer and then cutting the snipe off after jointing it lol to using a sacrificial piece of wood to trail behind it so that the sacrificial piece gets the snipe lol. I tried them all and NONE eliminated snipe like adjusting the blades.
As you have demonstrated, pretty easy process in setting the blades! I have been wanting a jointer and I will be looking closely at this Porter Cable!. Thanks for posting, great video
I've been very happy with this jointer, but I'm only one person. That said I appreciate you sharing your experience - would you mind sharing why you recommend against it?
Nice demonstration. I also have this same Porter Cable planer, and following the exact same procedure I found a "gotcha" when I was replacing my blades. By using a metal rule for setting the blade height, I inadvertently put a dull spot on the blade at each end where it was touching the rule while checking the height. Left me with noticeable lines on the wood whenever I joint across one or both dull spots on the blades. Wondering if there isn't a plastic straight edge that could be used to prevent this...
Thanks, David! It sounds like you might've just put a little too much pressure on the ruler. Plastic could eliminate the possibility of that happening, but it also might be a little harder to be precise. If you do experiment with plastic, be sure to come back and let us know how it goes! Thanks again!
Should you have reminded us DIY'ers to remove power to the device and disengage the cutter head lock before plugging it back in? That asked, your videos are informative and clearly explained - Thank You
Hey Tommy not on that exact Delta Jointer. But other Delta linters. Ive seen guys i a commercial Woodworking shop changing the blades using a magnetic pick up tool to remove and install the blades eliminating the need to touch the blades all together looke like a good idea to me and i picked up a Sears Craftsman telescoping oe i keep stuck In oe of my tool boxes that ive found many uses for in a wood shop
I was wondering if you know of a solution for my problem. The socket screws that adjust the blade height no longer catch and just spin freely. They would spin loosely a couple rotations and then catch. But now nothing. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated
That's one of the most clear and straightforward explanations for this process I've seen. Thanks for demystifying this. You might want to remind people to disconnect the machine from the power supply before starting though.
How do you get a fine adjustment on the knives. I've followed your great instructional video but continue to have issues with adjustments like getting 1/8" of travel. And after running a board through I get a tight wave patter from the blades and it's not smooth like it was from the factory. Any suggestions?
I’ve been getting horrible cuts from a delta 6” bench top jointer that I inherited from my older brother. Am always getting cuts that start and finish within the first 5” of my boards and then it wouldn’t joint anything beyond that, Leaving a bow in my practice boards. After looking at the blades I don’t have the 1/8” movement with my ruler. Now my bolts are seized up and I’m out of WD40. Once I get theses freed up I will adjust my blades and or get new ones. Does the scenario I describe sound like a reasonable explanation for my jointing results?
I have got the porter cable planer and was interested in getting the porter cable jointer but lowes don't carry it anymore,,,they carry craftsman,,it looks to be the same jointer,,,,what do you think,,
Thank you Tommy. I have attempted to set my knives a few times and it’s still not quit right. I’m using Oak and at first I was getting snipe. I have that gone now but it seems the knives are hitting the wood and causing bounce or vibration. I’m curious if you have any advise. Thanks!
I'm very happy with this jointer, especially for the money I spent on it. I've owned larger more expensive jointers that haven't performed as good as this little champ. That said, the fence DOES flex, so you have to be careful when applying pressure on it. I actually made a video review of this jointer. If you're interested, here's the link: ruclips.net/video/S_fl31hTsFs/видео.html I also made a separate video on how to adjust the fence. Here's the link for that one: ruclips.net/video/el1OMhmgqLI/видео.html I hope this helps!
@@OneMinuteWorkbench thank you for taking the time to answer and linking videos for me I've been back and forth on getting a jointer for a while now. I'll definitely give the links a view even though I'm sure I've seen I've been subscribed for a while 👍👍👍👍
Do you know how to adjust the table if it's not flat . Checked the flatness when I Coplaned it and it seriously out of whack. It says nothing in the manual flattening the table. Any advice would be much appreciated
I would suggest getting T handle hex keys (Allen wrenches) for this task. This keeps your fingers well away from the blades if they slip or cam out of the fasteners. You can cut your hands very badly if this happens. (Don't ask how I know :-) )
If I might add a tip too... I have an 8" dowel with a rare earth magnet epoxied into the end of it. I pick up planer/jointer knives with it when I'm changing them out. Keeps your hands out of those tight spaces where cuts can happen.
Not for this machine (and problem not for most machines, actually). The main goal is to get the knives perfectly aligned with the outfield table. Since the infeed table is adjustable, it doesn't really matter. I hope this helps!
One thing is not perfect on this otherwise perfect video: When tightening the blade holding screws, DON'T DO it as shown... The best way is to apply a little torque at each screw at a time, and following a proper sequence, exactly like when tightening a wheel or an engine head: In Order! In this case, start wih the most center two screws, followed by the exterior ones, do it in at least two to three steps, and in that way you keep the blade straight and not being distorted by tha clamping force of the screws. Every time you tighten a multiple screw assembly, do like I've just described. If you as many other people, don't have a torque screwdriver, you can still get excellent results by using first the short side of the Allen wrench, and then the long one. That way you can approximate the torque that is applied without using an expensive torque measuring tool. Best Luck, Amclaussen.
Well done. The closeups of blade height testing and adjustment made it especially clear. I have a DELTA JT160 jointer; its construction appears to be identical to yours. On another note, no one mentions adjusting the infeed plate on this model so that it is parallel to the outfeed. Parallelism is not mentioned in the manual either. Its like this will never be a problem?
Thank you! As far as parallelism goes, I have measured it, and while it's not perfect, it's very close. The performance has been adequate for my needs over the years, and it actually performs better than my last jointer, which was much larger...and more expensive. All that said, I'm not sure why they don't consider it in the manual. Maybe they're just that confident in their design...only time will tell how it's going to hold up, but so far so good!
Tommy. Have you ever had a problem with this jointer or any other one that won't cut the last 1" of the stock? Could anyone point me in the right direction to fix this issue. Thanks in advance for any help.
I do not - mine came very well aligned from the factory, so I haven't tinkered with it. If it ever goes out of alignment, I'll be sure to video the realignment process though 😉
I have this model and it or maybe 'I' cannot seem to get a clean cut. It very often gives significant tear out when using it. Even at the lowest amount being taken off. Tried and tried, but it causes me more work than it's worth. Have no idea what I am doing wrong
John, tear out could be a lot of different things, but is usually associated with grain direction. If you're not familiar with how grain direction affects the cuts a jointer makes, do a google search on the subject - there are lots of good videos out there. If that's not the problem, do you have any other suspicions as to what it might be?
I'm very happy with this jointer, especially for the money I spent on it. I've owned larger more expensive jointers that haven't performed as good as this little champ. That said, there are some drawbacks. I actually made a video review of this jointer. If you're interested, here's the link: ruclips.net/video/S_fl31hTsFs/видео.html I also made a separate video on how to adjust the fence. Here's the link for that one: ruclips.net/video/el1OMhmgqLI/видео.html I hope this helps!
@@OneMinuteWorkbench Thanks for following up on your thoughts on the jointer. I'm definitely going to get the same one now. Thanks a lot for saving me a ton of money!
I'm not 100% sure. Did it come that way from the factory or has it become this way over time? If it came that way from the factory, I might be inclined to swap it for properly calibrated version. If it became that way over time, I'd probably disassemble it, clean everything, and put it back together. If nothing else, you're bound to learns something about the mechanisms involved. Anyway, I hope this helps!
A very useful and instructive video but something important to add is that the lever that raises the blade must be in position 0 before starting the calibration process.
This is a really good video. He explains everything thoroughly and in easy to understand terms. The video shows crystal clear close-ups and the shots of the adjustment procedures are some of the best I've seen on the internet. I like this instructor because he doesn't act like a goof or try to get you to watch his video with a dumb gimmick. Special thanks to Tommy for taking his time to make and post this video.
Thanks to this video I was able to fix my jointer. After sharpening my blades, I started getting a lot of tear out. After watching this I fixed my blade alignement and it fixed it.
I’m glad you found it helpful. Another thing to consider (for tear out) is to check your grain direction. You may know that already, but just in case you don’t. If you send a piece through and it gets tear out, flip it around and send the other end through first. I hope this helps!
I've had this jointer for a while and it is time for new cutter blades. Thanks for doing an excellent job of showing me how to replace them. Well done.
I have this jointer and had the same jointer when it was sold under the Delta brand. Two things you're never told you're going to need when replacing the knives are an extra holder bolt or two and a screw extractor. Almost without exception at least one of the allen slots strips out. Both jointers, every time.
Was excited to find this video, only to have the Allen head strip out. Now what?🤬
I have to re-watch this excellent video each time I need to change blades, adjust blades, etc....well done.
Excellent video! I just bought the Delta version of the same model (used) and the blades that came with it were trashed and needed replacing. This will help greatly.
I am new to woodworking and have been days trying to figure out why I can't get my boards to cut right. This video has most likely determined the reason why. Thanks so much!!!
Glad I could help!
I haven’t needed to remove mine yet and I was a little concerned doing it properly. It was a great instructional video, now I feel more confident about removing and reinstalling the blades now that I’ve seen your video. Keep up the great work and keep the videos coming.
I'm glad you enjoyed the video! Thanks, Mike!
Very nice explanation. I have the same jointer, and this is exactly how it should be done.
Thanks for the vote of confidence!
Holy crap. How did youtube know I just bought this exact used jointer at a garage sale this last weekend? Thanks
Have tried other methods and still ended up with snipe on the end. Using the procedure described by you, I completely removed the snipe. Very helpful!!
I’m glad it worked for you!
Thanks for this video Tommy! I don’t own a planer, but it really is because I was afraid it would take more knowledge than I had to maintain it. You have demystified the planer and now I will consider getting one some point in the future.
No problem, Lisa! If you do get a jointer (this style, or another), let me know how it goes! I was thinking I might do another video showing how to set the blades for jointers that don't have a cutter-head lock. Keep me posted!
Ditto
Very helpful video. I have this same jointer and never knew the blades were adjustable. I’m just a hobbyist woodworker but I’ve watched a lot of videos on how to eliminate snipe. Many of the people who made videos would benefit from watching this one. I’ve seen them recommend everything from cutting your workpiece a couple inches longer and then cutting the snipe off after jointing it lol to using a sacrificial piece of wood to trail behind it so that the sacrificial piece gets the snipe lol. I tried them all and NONE eliminated snipe like adjusting the blades.
Thank you. Very well done and extremely helpful.
Great info on how much the blade will catch the straight edge when adjusted properly👍
Thanks, after a long time with snipe issues I now know how to fix it
You explain and demonstrate this skill very clearly. Thanks for making a very helpful video.
Thank you, and no problem!
Thank you. I put new blades in and couldn't figure this out. Back to the shop!
I set mine just like you did and it works great
As you have demonstrated, pretty easy process in setting the blades! I have been wanting a jointer and I will be looking closely at this Porter Cable!. Thanks for posting, great video
I'm glad you enjoyed the video! Good luck with your purchase decision!
FYI, I own this jointer & would NOT recommend it to anyone. IF I were you I'd look elsewhere & purchase a better brand.
Thank you for your thoughts. I appreciate your input. As you know tools are very expensive.
I've been very happy with this jointer, but I'm only one person. That said I appreciate you sharing your experience - would you mind sharing why you recommend against it?
Fantastic instruction and helped me tremendously! Thank you!
I don't have this particular jointer but this is a great video for someone who does or is considering buying any jointer.
I'm glad you found it helpful!
Excellent channel. Just found out about it. Great content, very explanatory for beginners.
Nice demonstration. I also have this same Porter Cable planer, and following the exact same procedure I found a "gotcha" when I was replacing my blades. By using a metal rule for setting the blade height, I inadvertently put a dull spot on the blade at each end where it was touching the rule while checking the height. Left me with noticeable lines on the wood whenever I joint across one or both dull spots on the blades. Wondering if there isn't a plastic straight edge that could be used to prevent this...
Thanks, David! It sounds like you might've just put a little too much pressure on the ruler. Plastic could eliminate the possibility of that happening, but it also might be a little harder to be precise. If you do experiment with plastic, be sure to come back and let us know how it goes! Thanks again!
Should you have reminded us DIY'ers to remove power to the device and disengage the cutter head lock before plugging it back in? That asked, your videos are informative and clearly explained - Thank You
thank you so much this saved me. also did you get grooves/scratches in your tables after running a few boards through?
Thank you very much for this explanation. It helped a lot. Well done.
No problem! I’m glad you found it helpful!
Hey Tommy not on that exact Delta Jointer. But other Delta linters. Ive seen guys i a commercial Woodworking shop changing the blades using a magnetic pick up tool to remove and install the blades eliminating the need to touch the blades all together looke like a good idea to me and i picked up a Sears Craftsman telescoping oe i keep stuck In oe of my tool boxes that ive found many uses for in a wood shop
Thanks for sharing that tip!
This was very helpful, thank you.
I was wondering if you know of a solution for my problem. The socket screws that adjust the blade height no longer catch and just spin freely. They would spin loosely a couple rotations and then catch. But now nothing. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated
That's one of the most clear and straightforward explanations for this process I've seen. Thanks for demystifying this. You might want to remind people to disconnect the machine from the power supply before starting though.
Thank you, and thanks for the safety reminder as well - we can never be too safe!
Thanks, nice and easy to follow.
I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Very well done and helpful. Thanks.
Thank you, and no problem, Hank! I'm glad you found it helpful!
BINGO! Just what I needed. Tks
How do you get a fine adjustment on the knives. I've followed your great instructional video but continue to have issues with adjustments like getting 1/8" of travel. And after running a board through I get a tight wave patter from the blades and it's not smooth like it was from the factory. Any suggestions?
Thanks. I would to see you adjust the de Walt behind the Porter Cable.
All in good time, my friend! As soon as the knives need adjusting, I'll be sure to post a video!
I’ve been getting horrible cuts from a delta 6” bench top jointer that I inherited from my older brother. Am always getting cuts that start and finish within the first 5” of my boards and then it wouldn’t joint anything beyond that, Leaving a bow in my practice boards. After looking at the blades I don’t have the 1/8” movement with my ruler. Now my bolts are seized up and I’m out of WD40. Once I get theses freed up I will adjust my blades and or get new ones. Does the scenario I describe sound like a reasonable explanation for my jointing results?
I have got the porter cable planer and was interested in getting the porter cable jointer but lowes don't carry it anymore,,,they carry craftsman,,it looks to be the same jointer,,,,what do you think,,
My guess is that the craftsman is similar...check the reviews and if it looks good, I say give it a shot!
Boom, thanks again!
Great information. Thanks for making it.
No problem! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you Tommy.
I have attempted to set my knives a few times and it’s still not quit right.
I’m using Oak and at first I was getting snipe. I have that gone now but it seems the knives are hitting the wood and causing bounce or vibration.
I’m curious if you have any advise.
Thanks!
Very helpful, thanks!
Nicely done Tommy. I'd like to see the video for a 3 blade without a blade lock. I've got a Grizzly 6".
I'm glad you enjoyed it, Steve. I'll consider putting a video together for jointers that don't have a blade lock - thanks for the suggestion!
@@OneMinuteWorkbench No, it's more like thank you Tommy for the consideration.
How has the jointer held up so far would you recommend it and how is the fence does it flex at all. Always enjoy your videos
I'm very happy with this jointer, especially for the money I spent on it. I've owned larger more expensive jointers that haven't performed as good as this little champ. That said, the fence DOES flex, so you have to be careful when applying pressure on it. I actually made a video review of this jointer. If you're interested, here's the link: ruclips.net/video/S_fl31hTsFs/видео.html I also made a separate video on how to adjust the fence. Here's the link for that one: ruclips.net/video/el1OMhmgqLI/видео.html I hope this helps!
@@OneMinuteWorkbench thank you for taking the time to answer and linking videos for me I've been back and forth on getting a jointer for a while now. I'll definitely give the links a view even though I'm sure I've seen I've been subscribed for a while 👍👍👍👍
Okay, sounds good. By the way, thanks for being a subscriber!
Thank you.. nice clear video
This is great, thank you!
Do you know how to adjust the table if it's not flat . Checked the flatness when I Coplaned it and it seriously out of whack. It says nothing in the manual flattening the table. Any advice would be much appreciated
Very Helpful.
Why are you not doing other videos?
If you fully tighten the screws will it not raise the blade more?
I would suggest getting T handle hex keys (Allen wrenches) for this task. This keeps your fingers well away from the blades if they slip or cam out of the fasteners. You can cut your hands very badly if this happens. (Don't ask how I know :-) )
Thanks for that awesome tip! And don't worry, we won't ask how you know 😉
If I might add a tip too...
I have an 8" dowel with a rare earth magnet epoxied into the end of it. I pick up planer/jointer knives with it when I'm changing them out. Keeps your hands out of those tight spaces where cuts can happen.
Before you adjust the blade height in this manner, do you need to zero out the height adjustment of the out field table? Thank you.
I meant in field table!!
Not for this machine (and problem not for most machines, actually). The main goal is to get the knives perfectly aligned with the outfield table. Since the infeed table is adjustable, it doesn't really matter. I hope this helps!
@@OneMinuteWorkbench Thank you for your reply. Much appreciated.
Omg. I feel like a complete idiot now. Lol. Thanks. Very simple
What setting do you start at? 0? 1/32? Does it even matter? Thanks
One thing is not perfect on this otherwise perfect video: When tightening the blade holding screws, DON'T DO it as shown... The best way is to apply a little torque at each screw at a time, and following a proper sequence, exactly like when tightening a wheel or an engine head: In Order!
In this case, start wih the most center two screws, followed by the exterior ones, do it in at least two to three steps, and in that way you keep the blade straight and not being distorted by tha clamping force of the screws. Every time you tighten a multiple screw assembly, do like I've just described. If you as many other people, don't have a torque screwdriver, you can still get excellent results by using first the short side of the Allen wrench, and then the long one. That way you can approximate the torque that is applied without using an expensive torque measuring tool.
Best Luck, Amclaussen.
Thanks for the tip!
Well done. The closeups of blade height testing and adjustment made it especially clear. I have a DELTA JT160 jointer; its construction appears to be identical to yours.
On another note, no one mentions adjusting the infeed plate on this model so that it is parallel to the outfeed. Parallelism is not mentioned in the manual either. Its like this will never be a problem?
Thank you! As far as parallelism goes, I have measured it, and while it's not perfect, it's very close. The performance has been adequate for my needs over the years, and it actually performs better than my last jointer, which was much larger...and more expensive. All that said, I'm not sure why they don't consider it in the manual. Maybe they're just that confident in their design...only time will tell how it's going to hold up, but so far so good!
Tommy. Have you ever had a problem with this jointer or any other one that won't cut the last 1" of the stock? Could anyone point me in the right direction to fix this issue. Thanks in advance for any help.
Thanks for sharing that
Do you need to set the gauge to zero before adjusting the blades?
When you set the knives is the blade position at zero? I mean the dial that determines the amount of material you take off. Should that be at 0?
You put your ruler on the outfeed table. That’s after the blade. That part of the table is stationary.
ok so at what setting/height is your outfeed table should be?
Does the depth adjustment make a difference where it is set?
Thanks!
Do you have a video on how to align the indeed and outfeed tables on this model?
I do not - mine came very well aligned from the factory, so I haven't tinkered with it. If it ever goes out of alignment, I'll be sure to video the realignment process though 😉
I have this model and it or maybe 'I' cannot seem to get a clean cut. It very often gives significant tear out when using it. Even at the lowest amount being taken off. Tried and tried, but it causes me more work than it's worth. Have no idea what I am doing wrong
John, tear out could be a lot of different things, but is usually associated with grain direction. If you're not familiar with how grain direction affects the cuts a jointer makes, do a google search on the subject - there are lots of good videos out there. If that's not the problem, do you have any other suspicions as to what it might be?
What setting is jointer on? 0? 1/32? Does it matter?
How long of a board can be jointed with this machine?
Thank you
I was looking to get this jointer, how do you like it?
I'm very happy with this jointer, especially for the money I spent on it. I've owned larger more expensive jointers that haven't performed as good as this little champ. That said, there are some drawbacks. I actually made a video review of this jointer. If you're interested, here's the link: ruclips.net/video/S_fl31hTsFs/видео.html I also made a separate video on how to adjust the fence. Here's the link for that one: ruclips.net/video/el1OMhmgqLI/видео.html I hope this helps!
@@OneMinuteWorkbench Thanks for following up on your thoughts on the jointer. I'm definitely going to get the same one now. Thanks a lot for saving me a ton of money!
The inner side of the PC table is off from the closet side. How do I fix that? The screws on top?
I'm not 100% sure. Did it come that way from the factory or has it become this way over time? If it came that way from the factory, I might be inclined to swap it for properly calibrated version. If it became that way over time, I'd probably disassemble it, clean everything, and put it back together. If nothing else, you're bound to learns something about the mechanisms involved. Anyway, I hope this helps!
Спасибо было полезно!
Спасибо! Я рад, что вы нашли это полезным!
A perfect example of KISS , , , , , , (KEEP IT SIMPLE, SMART!)
Muito bom adorei.
Muito obrigado! Estou feliz que você gostou!
4:54
No views thank u
keep teaching :)))))
I'll do my best!