I did my white golf yesterday..... wash, dry, rapid decon, high pressure rinse, dry, clay bar then fusso light coat. There were hardly any contaminants on the clay but my paint felt better so it must have been taking traffic film off. I’m no expert I just wanted to do something before winter. The only time I didn’t clay my car was when I didn’t know any better. Excellent channel John , I love the content and your delivery is great 👍😃
@@Gappyps3 Before applying Fusso the paint must be clean. Fusso doesn’t like to sit on top of anything so if you do polish the paint to improve it’s condition then it’s best to use panel wipe before applying Fusso to remove any of the oils present in the polish
@@weshall5679 I wouldn’t use Fusso on top of anything. If you polish or clay then you should use panel wipe to remove any residue so that the Fusso is applied directly to clean paint. Fusso doesn’t like to sit on top of anything other than clean paint. It will work best and last longer when applied to clean paint.
Clay/decon your paintwork throughly the once a year thereafter. Always polish afterwards (just a light one if you’ve already done a full correction). Maybe just the lower panels will be enough. If it’s very light contamination then you can get away with not claying.
Great video, John. Thank you. I used a clay bar, then Autoglym SRP on my stepson’s Corsa. I washed the car before and after using the clay bar, then applied the polish. I also used Autosmart Tardis and washed the car again afterwards.The car had no protection and the clay bar was caked in dirt. I’m just a weekend warrior, but felt doing it this way the paint was as clean and contaminate free as possible before hand polishing. Really pleased with the results, but unsure if this was the correct process.
Thank you, John. From memory I think I used Tardis before clay and SRP as part of the recon process, apologies though as I did not make this clear. Thank you also to other people who replied. The details community are a really helpful group.
If you enjoy track days , ppf the front it's worth it , on yours I'd say bumper bonnet wings and mirrors- possibly the roof + general enjoyment of the car your not worried about the stone chips etc and will retain value in future I guess
Ah’rite luv. This upload looks like a good opportunity for the Scholl Concepts W6 Coatwax update. Clayed the car wit’ tha bar - no fallout remover. Rupes Yellow foam. Applied W6 with Rupes white foam. They suggest panel by panel. I started with the hood, front end, down the passenger side. Wipe off. Roof, hatch, up the driver side. Wipe off. Wipe off was easy peasy. Slickness was below average. Gloss - looked plasticky? I guess, that’s an adjective I’d use? However, 5 days after I applied W6 it off-gassed? It nano-bonded? It listened to Marvin Gaye and had a cigarette? I ran the back of my hand along the paint (on accident? 😏) it was incredibly slick. Like. Beadmaker slick. B&B blending slipstream slick. This is just anecdotal, feel free to tell me I’m wrong 🥺. There’s a video from a channel called Industriebedarf Weber that washes his car with pepto bismal, but(t), the hydrophobics were pretty much the same that I observed 🔬. Idk ‘bout durability and after translating like a bazillion German comments into English, everyone seemed - through the lens of a translation AI - to be pretty ‘meh’ overall about the product. Most of these comments were from the German channel DetailingSchool 🫶 , and a couple other smaller German channels including Scholl Concepts. W6 was just me papering over my horniness for Rupes Uno Advanced since I’m being forced to wait until after SEMA to purchase. I can always slop W6 onto my granite countertops if I need to get rid of it, I guess. But, I kind of like it (I want to like it) and this was only a first date. So, we’ll see how I feel. 😮💨
seriously MEH mate. I was very very very unimpressed by it. It made huge claims about durability and it lasted very little time. one of the wrost Ive seen in a long time.
I had a comment when asked same questions. Reply was…. Once done no going back. Never Bar’d yet to find out !!!!! Bought a personal V8 nice paint. May yet try.
When it comes to the claying stage, I start with my synthetic clay foam block on some largeflat panels. If its bad, you'll really hear it catch the contaminants... like it almost resonates through the foam (scary sound 😨). From there I'll switch to my clay cloth while being generous with the lube and iron spray to help knock it all out.
Another good way to test if there's contamination on the paint is to put your hand in a plastic sandwich bag and slide your hand over the paint. You can really feel all the "bumps".
that technique is an old one that has been thoroughly critqued on YT and elsewhere as actually being ineffective and damaging to your paintwork in all likelyhood….
I just dont think you need to do this. Just FR behind the front wheel and clay over it a minute or so later.. also test rear section. I think after a while you can tell rapidly if a car is badly contaminated or not. Its rare to be able to polish without claying.. but sometimes you can do rapid turbo clay rather than like a rreally slow thurough clay.
The biggest thing that winds me up is when I see people clay a car then just bang a spray wax on top and call it a day . Lots of “detailing” channels guilty of it
thats the should you polish after claying debait isnt it. I think we did a video on that. The answer is yes you should, claying will scratch the paint but you wont always see it unless you have good light setup.
I skipped this step once before due to being lazy, seems I got away with it though but some contaminants might have got buried in the clear coat I guess there’s no way to check
Great channel with really detailed testing of products 👍 I have found in the past iron contaminates more on horizontal surfaces than the sides of cars, this was from where cars were parked often in or near industrial areas, they weren't doing many miles, but the majority of the day have contaminates falling down on them. This was from my old days of valeting cars for dealerships. Keep up the great work 😎😎
Completely agree Jon. My Cayman lives in the garage, covers about 3000 miles a year and is washed regularly and sealed/waxed twice a year. Costing it each time would be pointless and of course claying itself can inflict damage. If the car is outside and is ‘used’ then absolutely clay it before polishing. Where did you get those matching bottles from, Jon?
I always wonder if I will do more damage than good if I clay and only polish by hand. Nice smooth paint but heavy marring and unable to remove with hand polish? 🤷♂️
Hi Jon please Can you give me some advice I’ve got a Saab convertible and it has been parked under a tree It’s mohair what do you reckon is the best product to remove all the contamination is on the roof I have used Autoglym Roof cleaner but in my opinion it’s not doing anything Cheers
I would get a tampica brush from amazon. vacuum it dry first. then brush it out with APC and the tampica brush then rinse it down and use a water extractor vac to suck out all the crap... done a video on it with ian from UK detailing academy.
Have you ever done a video warning people about using the foreign carwashes? They’re using brick acid as wheel cleaner, presumably cheaper than wheel cleaner. Maybe not the end of the world if it gets rinsed off properly but it doesn’t! so it runs down the insides of the brake discs and knackers the inside pad and inside surface of the disc badly! The outside pad and disc appears fine but on the inside where it doesn’t get rinsed is another matter.
I did my white golf yesterday..... wash, dry, rapid decon, high pressure rinse, dry, clay bar then fusso light coat. There were hardly any contaminants on the clay but my paint felt better so it must have been taking traffic film off. I’m no expert I just wanted to do something before winter. The only time I didn’t clay my car was when I didn’t know any better. Excellent channel John , I love the content and your delivery is great 👍😃
Should I not use a polish before the fusso coat or straight on after claying?
@@Gappyps3 Before applying Fusso the paint must be clean. Fusso doesn’t like to sit on top of anything so if you do polish the paint to improve it’s condition then it’s best to use panel wipe before applying Fusso to remove any of the oils present in the polish
@JT glad I read your reply about cleansing after my Polish coat before using fusso. Can I use fusso on top of a glaze like poorboys ?
@@weshall5679 I wouldn’t use Fusso on top of anything. If you polish or clay then you should use panel wipe to remove any residue so that the Fusso is applied directly to clean paint. Fusso doesn’t like to sit on top of anything other than clean paint. It will work best and last longer when applied to clean paint.
Clay/decon your paintwork throughly the once a year thereafter. Always polish afterwards (just a light one if you’ve already done a full correction). Maybe just the lower panels will be enough. If it’s very light contamination then you can get away with not claying.
Great video, John. Thank you. I used a clay bar, then Autoglym SRP on my stepson’s Corsa. I washed the car before and after using the clay bar, then applied the polish. I also used Autosmart Tardis and washed the car again afterwards.The car had no protection and the clay bar was caked in dirt. I’m just a weekend warrior, but felt doing it this way the paint was as clean and contaminate free as possible before hand polishing.
Really pleased with the results, but unsure if this was the correct process.
1. Wash
2. Chemical decon (tar and/or rustspecks)
3. Rinse/wash
4. Clay, (rinse) +dry
5. Polish/protect
That’s what I would do ☺️
dont use tardis after claying and SRP mate. you will strip the SRP resins. Use Tardis before claying.
Thank you, John. Apologies as I think I used Tardis before flying and SRP, just didn’t make myself clear.
Thank you, John. From memory I think I used Tardis before clay and SRP as part of the recon process, apologies though as I did not make this clear. Thank you also to other people who replied.
The details community are a really helpful group.
Sorry, decon process.
I have broken the fundamental detaining rule when hand polishing several times, although I do feel much happier when I use the clay bar and DA 😊.
Hey Jon! Great video and tips! Exactly how we go about deciding what we need to do when working on our customers vehicles. 😎👍🏼
those customer be in good hands my friend :)
As usual Jon great quality video and information.
Added to your sense of humour it's really enjoyable to watch
Car looks so good John. Pride in the ride my man.
If you enjoy track days , ppf the front it's worth it , on yours I'd say bumper bonnet wings and mirrors- possibly the roof + general enjoyment of the car your not worried about the stone chips etc and will retain value in future I guess
Or respray front end..
Love your videos - you are my new favourite detailing channel. Keep up the good work.
Wow, thanks m8
Same here! Great work John 🎉
Ah’rite luv. This upload looks like a good opportunity for the Scholl Concepts W6 Coatwax update.
Clayed the car wit’ tha bar - no fallout remover.
Rupes Yellow foam. Applied W6 with Rupes white foam. They suggest panel by panel.
I started with the hood, front end, down the passenger side. Wipe off. Roof, hatch, up the driver side. Wipe off.
Wipe off was easy peasy. Slickness was below average. Gloss - looked plasticky? I guess, that’s an adjective I’d use?
However, 5 days after I applied W6 it off-gassed? It nano-bonded? It listened to Marvin Gaye and had a cigarette? I ran the back of my hand along the paint (on accident? 😏) it was incredibly slick. Like. Beadmaker slick. B&B blending slipstream slick. This is just anecdotal, feel free to tell me I’m wrong 🥺.
There’s a video from a channel called Industriebedarf Weber that washes his car with pepto bismal, but(t), the hydrophobics were pretty much the same that I observed 🔬.
Idk ‘bout durability and after translating like a bazillion German comments into English, everyone seemed - through the lens of a translation AI - to be pretty ‘meh’ overall about the product. Most of these comments were from the German channel DetailingSchool 🫶 , and a couple other smaller German channels including Scholl Concepts.
W6 was just me papering over my horniness for Rupes Uno Advanced since I’m being forced to wait until after SEMA to purchase. I can always slop W6 onto my granite countertops if I need to get rid of it, I guess. But, I kind of like it (I want to like it) and this was only a first date. So, we’ll see how I feel.
😮💨
seriously MEH mate. I was very very very unimpressed by it. It made huge claims about durability and it lasted very little time. one of the wrost Ive seen in a long time.
Yea, if that’s true I’ve got Hydro2 in a concentrate as an insurance policy to get me through the winter.
I had a comment when asked same questions. Reply was…. Once done no going back. Never Bar’d yet to find out !!!!! Bought a personal V8 nice paint. May yet try.
When it comes to the claying stage, I start with my synthetic clay foam block on some largeflat panels. If its bad, you'll really hear it catch the contaminants... like it almost resonates through the foam (scary sound 😨). From there I'll switch to my clay cloth while being generous with the lube and iron spray to help knock it all out.
I go by the rule of - I rub my paint (after cleaning) with the back of my hand and I can hear friction/resistance then I’ll clay.
Another good way to test if there's contamination on the paint is to put your hand in a plastic sandwich bag and slide your hand over the paint. You can really feel all the "bumps".
that technique is an old one that has been thoroughly critqued on YT and elsewhere as actually being ineffective and damaging to your paintwork in all likelyhood….
I just dont think you need to do this. Just FR behind the front wheel and clay over it a minute or so later.. also test rear section. I think after a while you can tell rapidly if a car is badly contaminated or not. Its rare to be able to polish without claying.. but sometimes you can do rapid turbo clay rather than like a rreally slow thurough clay.
The biggest thing that winds me up is when I see people clay a car then just bang a spray wax on top and call it a day . Lots of “detailing” channels guilty of it
thats the should you polish after claying debait isnt it. I think we did a video on that. The answer is yes you should, claying will scratch the paint but you wont always see it unless you have good light setup.
Can you please try mixing Bilt Hamber Touchless with Auto Foam and compare it against each other to see if it washes better?
My question would be: Should you clay your car before handpolishing?
Is that a real questio? Proper yes
Hi John long time no hear Merturtleglym checking in lol , great vid and explanation as usual look forward to the next one have a top weekend 🙏😇
I skipped this step once before due to being lazy, seems I got away with it though but some contaminants might have got buried in the clear coat I guess there’s no way to check
Xpel tracwrap for those track days Jon
Great channel with really detailed testing of products 👍
I have found in the past iron contaminates more on horizontal surfaces than the sides of cars, this was from where cars were parked often in or near industrial areas, they weren't doing many miles, but the majority of the day have contaminates falling down on them.
This was from my old days of valeting cars for dealerships. Keep up the great work 😎😎
Completely agree Jon. My Cayman lives in the garage, covers about 3000 miles a year and is washed regularly and sealed/waxed twice a year. Costing it each time would be pointless and of course claying itself can inflict damage. If the car is outside and is ‘used’ then absolutely clay it before polishing. Where did you get those matching bottles from, Jon?
Ik sprayers m8 in2detailing
I always wonder if I will do more damage than good if I clay and only polish by hand. Nice smooth paint but heavy marring and unable to remove with hand polish? 🤷♂️
Can do. Claying can really scuff up Paint
Great video as always Jon 👍🏻
I didn't realise that polishing a car had its own language.
Hi Jon please Can you give me some advice I’ve got a Saab convertible and it has been parked under a tree It’s mohair what do you reckon is the best product to remove all the contamination is on the roof I have used Autoglym Roof cleaner but in my opinion it’s not doing anything Cheers
I would get a tampica brush from amazon. vacuum it dry first. then brush it out with APC and the tampica brush then rinse it down and use a water extractor vac to suck out all the crap... done a video on it with ian from UK detailing academy.
Hi John where do you get the clipboard from
What about wax? Is it worth clay bar before hand before a wax for winter?
Only you can answer that. You clay to remove contamination from your car. Is it contaminated
Which interior detailing product was that you pointed to? Thx.
Gyeon m8
🧢✌️❤️
Have you ever done a video warning people about using the foreign carwashes?
They’re using brick acid as wheel cleaner, presumably cheaper than wheel cleaner.
Maybe not the end of the world if it gets rinsed off properly but it doesn’t! so it runs down the insides of the brake discs and knackers the inside pad and inside surface of the disc badly! The outside pad and disc appears fine but on the inside where it doesn’t get rinsed is another matter.
not planning on m8 Im sure theres lots of dodgey car washes but they cant all be dodgey.
Haven't used one of those car washes since they used patio cleaner on the alloys and striped the lacquer of my bumper in the process 😩