Insulating A Nice House Ep.104
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- Know the options before insulation is installed. String pro tips: • Using String Like A Pro
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Thank you, be safe, and be grateful.
Howdy Scott, I'm an insulation pro in Tennessee. I'm a subscriber and a fan on RUclips and the podcast. Thank you for your thoughtful approach to construction - it is clear that you grasp the nobility and value of homebuilding, and care greatly about what you're doing. These are the invisible traits that we need more of in this industry! Below is more info on insulation than you'll ever want to know in response to a couple points in this video:
1. For clarity, the blown material in the wall cavities IS fiberglass. The product they are loading into the machine is Johns Manville Spider, which is a fiberglass BIBS (blown-in-blanket-system) product. As far as I know JM does not manufacture cellulose, and cellulose is much dustier and is medium gray in appearance. R value is fairly comparable between the two. Settling over time is a function of installed density. The denser the product is packed into the cavity, the more stable it is over time and less prone to settling. There is a manufacturer spec for correct density, which can be field verified with a special tool, and/or a bag count calculation. For your house, either of these products is superior to batts due to more complete cavity fill. While a "Grade 1" install is certainly possible with batts, it is not typically fully achieved in the real world (Grade 1 means zero voids, gaps, or compression). Batts are not subject to settling over time - we have pulled some of the very first fiberglass batts out of buildings in remodel projects that are still snug against all surfaces of the cavity after 40-50 years of service. The quality and performance of insulation has mostly to do with how well it was installed.
2. The paper facing on batt insulation has a couple pertinent properties. First, it's considered a class II vapor retarder. Second, it holds a staple. Interior-facing vapor retarders were highly favored for many years, especially in cold climates, and in fact are still somewhat enshrined in the IRC for climate zones 4 and above. Manufacturer installation instructions for paper-faced batts would have you unfurl that "ear" across the face of the stud on each side and "face staple" the paper to the studs, then come back and run tape across all those joints in order to create a fairly monolithic vapor retarder across the interior face of the wall. This is almost never done (at least in our area) because drywallers like to see the studs. However, as building science advances, those much smarter than I advocate for more vapor-open assemblies as we make buildings more airtight and highly insulated. My company only installs paper-faced materials in parts of the house where we need to make sure the material doesn't fall out of the assembly - mainly ceilings. Otherwise it's all unfaced. The mold concern with the paper facing isn't usually the paper facing's fault alone, and it is worth remembering that the side of the sheetrock that faces into the stud cavity is usually bare paper as well. So the move to unfaced batts is mainly an attempt to reintroduce a little bit of drying potential to the assembly since we have removed so much of that potential by increased airtightness and insulation R value. Eliminating the vapor retarder layer allows the assembly to dry out just a LITTLE quicker via vapor diffusion. There is more to this discussion that I won't bore readers with here in a RUclips comment. Bottom line, it's a layer that just doesn't need to be there most of the time.
3. I agree with others that the ventilation baffles in the decked ceilings should connect at their ends, especially since you mention a 14" I-joist cavity in one area and the combination of an R30 batt (10" thick) with an R19 batt (6" thick) could result in compressing the fibers against the roof deck.
4. The foil on the attic ceiling behind the upstairs knee walls also serves two additional important functions in the absence of drywall: an air barrier, and an ignition barrier. However, to serve as an air barrier someone needs to come back and air-seal the joints, edges, and penetrations in the foil so that the storage space air does not have a pathway to communicate with the outdoor air that enters the roof assembly. I also noticed this same approach against the exterior wall beneath the stair landing - this is the result of a code requirement that vertical cavity insulation be contained by an air barrier. Someone needs to seal the joints and edges of this area as well before it is trapped behind sheetrock.
5. I noticed orange gun foam around your window jambs. It may be too late by the time this comment posts, but I'd encourage you to verify smooth operation of all windows before sheetrocking. The orange flavor of foam tends to expand a little more, and cure a little harder, than other "low-expansion" / "window and door" flavors of foam. Usually the low expansion stuff is white or light yellow in color, and will exert less pressure on the window frame. We've had to pay for a few window replacements over the years due to our air sealing foam bowing window frames and preventing the smooth operation of double-hung windows. This is most likely to happen when the gap we need to fill is very wide (3/4"+) and very long (4'+). I'm always on the hunt for the least risky window foam, and so far my favorites are Dow Great Stuff Pro Window and Door, and DAP 812 Draftstop. They showed the least amount of expansion in my comparison testing.
Ok, this comment is way too long, but I hope the information was helpful to someone out there. Thanks for all your content and for the element of professionalism you bring to our industry!
Wow! Thank you for this comment! This is why the comment section on our videos is the most worthwhile aspect! There is some background information to a couple of your points that I wish you had known before you posted but all in all you have educated me this morning and I appreciate it!
@@essentialcraftsman I certainly don’t mean to throw stones and know how hard it is to get 100% of the info into a RUclips video. I’d be curious to hear the background if you have the time and desire to share it!
This may be the most well informed comment I have ever seen on any building related video. You have the full depth of knowledge on your products/services that I would love to see in many more instances. Side note, I wish Scott had looked into sealed conditioned crawl spaces prior to starting this place.
North Carolinian contractor and builder of the last 20 years with one of the best mentors on the east coast who taught me the trade. I concur. This man insulates.
So the question on my mind is, if you’ve decided to do blown-in walls for a climate like this and cellulose and fiberglass are similar in cost, which would you go for in a house like this one? Elaborate on any downsides if you’d like. Appreciate your knowledge!
That triple speed insulation filling is oddly satisfying.
Glad im not the only one who thought so 🤣
And me haha
Real America loves you, Scott. Glad to see that number climbing to a million.
My home was built in 1959.
The insulation is long gone, flat and settled. I live in a very cold climate.
According to my utility providers I spend 20% to 30% more than other homes of my size and age should.
Thanks for the ideas and thanks for sharing!
Old boy putting in that insulation reminds me of the Precision Transmissions guy: an artist at work with no wasted movements or time.
Right on!
Richard and Trent are good people
Your right. Artists in my opinion
We love Richard and Trent here!
I see you are a man of culture.
I've never seen walls blown in like that. It's fun to watch.
Yeah, its almost power washer level satisfying
Looks a lot easier than spray foam!
Same
In Norway we have Hunton. It is a wooden alternative. The best thing with the complete system is that it is hygroscopic, and can actually transport away moisture from the construction. Also wood is a bit heavier and so reduces noise better. :-) ruclips.net/video/Tt5is1XrWEc/видео.html
i would think this will settle some after a few years, maybe not but it looked a little loose when he was pushing on it.
Amazing how much the sound quality changed in this video. Insulation is huge.
It's an incredible difference. A round will go from an echo chamber to a tinnitus chamber as fast as you can throw that stuff up
Scott, in my 25+ years in Architecture my continuous battle was reminding customers that the Code is the minimum requirement. Exceeding the code (as with insulating your garage) will have payback returns with every monthly energy bill. Love the channel & hi to Nate & to Kelly as well.
Perfect answer to the question. Build to the climate that you are in.
So good to watch an insulation video that is cost affective and practical. Everyone likes to over complicate it and spend way more money than it will ever save them.
I don’t mean to come off as a troll but I’ve got to share with you that I just had to remove all my blown in insulation. After about 10 years it completely failed. It compressed and settled in the walls. We figured this out by how cold the house was getting.
I was hoping someone would say something in regards to this. Cellulose is cheap, effective and effective but as you said it will settle with time and or moisture and a dead space will defeat a good deal of its purpose.
That sounds like an awefully expensive fix. Did you look into retro-foaming the walls?
@@ELIRAXPRT Well it was becoming more expensive to keep the house at comfortable temperature. My father is a retired contractor so we were able to do the work ourselves and replace it with Roxul. We also took the opportunity to make a few design changes in the house as well.
AMEN. I often remove blown in attic insulation and replace with batts for the same reason. The characteristics of each type at their installation lends a clue. When a tube of batt insulation is cut open it literally explodes due to being compressed, and will remain in the expanded condition indefinitely after installation. Blown insulation does not expand when the package is opened and has to be fluffed by the machine. It will settle and loose R value over time.
to be clear, he mispoke when saying it was cellulose. this is spider which is fiberglass, blown in fiberglass. it's very resistant to settlement. I was once hired to remove it after it filled an HVAC trunk line while blowing it in the ceiling cavity. it took hours to removed it via sucking it out with a shop vac and 4 extensions to reach the distance to the second floor. see the first comment at the top for more information about spider.
These videos are therapeutic
I enjoy watching EC videos: the subject matter, the narration, the intelligence and honesty, the common sense. I look forward to all of it. I’ve watched every video on this channel.
1. Foam rafter baffles must be carefully positioned and overlapped end-to-end about an inch shingle style to direct any possible moisture to the eave vents. No end-to-end gaps allowed between rafter vents.
2. If stacking insulation batts in the ceiling, top layer must be laid across the joists, lower layer between the joists. They must be stacked perpendicular to each other. Your contractor did what was fast and easy.
3. Living-area exterior walls are not blown with cellulose insulation. It looks like fiberglass wool and "Blowing Wool" is printed on the plastic bag being emptied into the hopper. Blowing wool is fiberglass.
4. Sound insulation would have been ideal in some, if not all, interior walls. Washroom walls at least. “We decided not.” Why? Failure to do so is cheap and/or misguided.
5. The knee-wall closets should be drywalled. Too much work? Too bad. Bite the bullet and do it. The foil-based covering (”... whatever it is ...”) is a shortcut that will deservedly puzzle most buyers. “Practical,” you say? Not by a long shot.
6. Will drywall lay vertically flat on studs where blown insulation is trapped? If not, some planing and other fussing in an earlier video seems wasted.
7. Paper-faced batts have a thin asphalt coating as a vapour barrier, albeit not wholly effective. The asphalt also adheres the fiberglass to the paper. Mould is no more an issue with the fiberglass paper-faced batts any more than the wood studs and paper-backed drywall. It’s all cellulose. “Keep it dry or it will die.”
8. Will there be plastic sheeting or some other vapour barrier applied before drywall? If not, why not? How can you effectively air seal--that is, draft-proof--the interior without a vapour barrier on the inside? (Never mind exterior housewrap: it’s intended to prevent water from contacting wall sheathing yet allow water vapour trapped behind it to escape. It’s not an effective air barrier in most builds.)
9. Fiberglass batts as a firestop in the stairwell walls? No way. Fire will melt it. Use rockwool, wood blocking, or sheet metal.
10. No gloves, no goggles, no masks? No thank you. Some professionals compare fiberglass fibers to asbestos. True or not, safety counts. Sub-contractor arrives on time, does the work on budget, and cleans up before departure? Not good enough.
Much better than anything I've seen in the field in coastal VA
Theres something about listening to the wise voice of the old man. So much wisdom, experience, and knowledge conveyed in what he says. This is one of my favorite channels and i get a certain joy when i see a new video is uploaded. I would like to thank the EC team for putting in the effort to share these experiences to the world. Keep up the EXCELLENT work men!
Might want to use the term "seasoned professional" instead of "old man"...otherwise Scott might give you a whoopin'! :)
Greetings from Bend, Oregon! Moved here recently after 30+ years on the wet side of the Cascades. I just recently found this series and have been catching up. I think it's the one of the finest on RUclips, and certainly the finest construction / trades series.
When I built my home I opted for cellulose in the attic. Forty years later the original 12" deep application had packed down to less than 4" and a significant loss of insulation had occurred requiring additional insulation be added. The supplemental material was blown fiberglass and the result was very satisfactory. It would seem to me that cellulose settling/packing in walls would be even more pronounced than what I experienced in my 12" attic application, quickly leaving significant uninsulated areas in the tops of stud wall cavities. Thanks for your great videos and bringing us along on your project. "Keep up the good work."
Was looking for videos on tying rebar....And came across your retaining wall videos.....And eversince then I'm hooked. Went back and started watching from episode 1 and boy do I sure appreciate it!!...Both the technical and logistics aspect of it. And also the documentation and permit acquisitions side. One must be thorough and meticulous when doing such projects. I am a recent engineering graduate and would like to own my own construction business in the future. Watching your videos is inspiring and motivational to say the least. Thank you so so much for being an example. Even when it comes to the farming and household stuff.....Its so satisfying to watch....And as always "Keep up the good work"..
Best wishes all the way from Fiji...!!!!
I watched this with full intentions of insulating the house ourselves since we are acting as the general contractor. I can't thank you enough to mentioning how subs can do the job for the same price due to bulk pricing. You were absolutely right, signing the contract tomorrow.
I'm into Commercial steel buildings and deal with a lot of insulation every now and then. How great would it be to see this man talk about pre engineered steel buildings.
The curtin rod backing block is a great idea.
The insulation and soundproofing is something I’d really be excited about if ever given the opportunity to build something for myself.
You were speaking of the hot countries that don't need insulation, because they leave the doors and windows open.
I live in Thailand, now, and see exactly that, where the poorer people, cannot afford to insulate, but in the cool season (our winter), it gets cold, down to 10/11°C. (not cold for you).
So there IS a requirement for insulation, on 2 fronts.
1. To stop the hear from leaving the house in the cool season.
2. To stop the heat from entering the house during the hot season.
Glazing needs to be double or treble glazed for the same reasons.
Love that Blown insulation, works fine on a timber frame house, but not on a concrete post and block house, where I think I will have to get a little more creative.
Fascinated by the series, Roll on the next episode.
Stu xx (retired Architect)
I had not watched this series for a while and I was amazed to see that they are just now insulating. They must have taken a couple months off.
I’m sure the future home owners will really appreciate you guys insulating the garage. We turned our garage into a rec room and had to have it insulated because it wasn’t when the house was built.
Loving Scott's presentation style and delivery on every subject he covers. I could listen to this man for hours 👏🏼👍🏼🙏🏼
That's the coolest way to insulate EVER!
I spent many summers when I was young insulating homes my Dad was building. Wearing long sleeves and long pants in 100 degree weather. I itched for days and days! Thanks for another great video Sir.
This is the best series on home building in all of YT. You continue to provide practical information in a way that is entertaining and
without bias. I cant wait for the next video.
As a car-nerd, I'll thank you on behalf of the first person who has to fix something in it mid-winter, for insulating the garage (also opting for an insulated door). Not much worse than trying to fight with tiny fasteners in tight spaces with frozen digits. I'm sure it'll also help dampen the noise of all the invariable shop swearing from the polite spaces as well 😅
Having done a bit of fiberglass insulation work, I've got a lot of respect for these guys. Looks like they did a fantastic job
I implore you to consider putting some insulation in the walls around the laundry! I'm sitting in my office in a newly-built house, and just on the other side of the wall behind me is the laundry. When the washer and/or dryer are on, it is noticeably noisier in here, making video calls much more difficult. It would be only a handful of bats, making the material and labor costs minimal. Unfortunately I didn't have enough detailed control over the build...
Increasingly important in today's work-at-home world.
As a former insulation pro from Utah I appreciate Nathan's comments. Coming from a climate of temperature extremes, 90 + degrees in the summer and -20s F at times in the winter, we installed almost exclusively cellulose insulation. The proof was certainly "in the pudding". In sheer numbers cellulose has 3.6 R's per inch while fiberglass has 2.2 R's per inch. That's nearly a 40% increase. We always used blown cellulose in ceilings. However, over the course of about 20 years we went from FG batts in walls to pressure packed cellulose in walls to a "wet spray" cellulose system in walls. You have to experience it to understand the performance difference between the systems. The "wet spray" cellulose system was by far the best in terms of living comfort and energy efficiency as well as sound control. Definitely worth looking into if it's available in your area. Of course, as in most things, finding a reputable installer is key.
I'm building my own home, started on March of 2020, yea, great year... Thanks for all of this golden advices, I'm not even near you, but your advices goes many many miles over the "Big Lake".
Thanks for this great content! Keep the good work.
I really enjoyed the pre spec house content, but I have been especially fond of the the spec house content. I have learned many things about my trade in a different climate and area than mine. All in all, thanks. I appreciate it.
Back when apprenticing, i'd spend days in the truck with the respirator, pushing and unpacking those celullose bails!! it was months until i could go up and fill the walls myself!! good times!!
Thank you for this series!!
One thing is for sure - the heating/energy cost is going to increase in the years to come - so the money you spend on insulation now are well spent!
Why do you assume so? Our energy prices today are about 30% cheaper in real terms than in 1960 for example. Technology makes most stuff cheaper. www.eia.gov/totalenergy/data/annual/showtext.php?t=ptb0810
@@themalacast so why not insulate and reduce energy costs further?
Insulation is a one off fixed cost, energy prices can fluctuate.
@CAD Thinking What's the reason? It's not obvious to me. We're heading for a mostly electric energy world, and the price of electricity from modern technologies is on a downward trajectory.
Your the best worker😎
Great timing on this one, as I'm moving into finalizing my insulation plans on my current house build. Planning to use Rockwool throughout the walls and roof but am debating on closed cell foam for the underside of the floor in the crawlspace area, as it will both provide great R-value as well as a moisture barrier. So many decisions!
as an apprentice drywaller (gyprocker as we call them) from Australia iv been waiting eagerly for this part of the house construction, cant wait! itch on my fibreglassing friends
Use spray foam everywhere for maximum comfort
@@christophergruenwald5054 and moisture control and structural stability, and time efficiency
@@christophergruenwald5054 You must like echo.
I did closed cell foam under my pier and beam shop and open cell foam in the walls and roof mainly for air sealing. I’ve been happy with the result so far.
I'm always a bit frustrated that my ONLY choices are either LIKE (Thumbs Up!!!) or DISLIKE (Thumbs Down). My appreciation of the Content and Delivery of this site goes far beyond a mere LIKE!!!! Thank You Mr. W!!!!!
Really gotta ask, who the heck would ever dislike a video from this guy? He is the reason i have the work ethic i do now. Must be some lazy boots.
Lads your content just keeps getting better and better.
Good morning! What a great way to start a day
I subscribed to your channel few months back n I want to Thank you for your Work!!!
It's a Great Joy to see there are still people out there in this old world who still the need of doing things Right!!!
Thank you!!!!
I was surprised not to see a vapor barrier go in'
Looking forward to seeing you guys break that 1 million subscriber mark! Keep up the good work.
Man, your channel is therapy. I love it, keep on keepin' on Sir.
I think the plastic vapor barrier does more than you would think. After the fire in 2005 I put R19 and a plastic vapor barrier in my house. It did have blown in foam before. After we moved back in the energy bills were about 30 % of what they were. The gas company changed the meter 3 times before I caught them and explained the situation. That little piece of plastic was well worth the small cost.
Another great vid -- thanks!
Just a comment about cold climates, though. I'm on the Canadian prairies, so I'm talking *cold*. What you learn is that you have to be just as concerned about internal air moving through external walls as you have to be about external air making its way inside. It's absolutely imperative to have a water-proof vapour barrier sealing the entire inside wall space. Your warm inside air is chock full of moisture, moisture that's being continually replenished by human activity in the house. When that humidity winds up in your exterior walls, it very quickly freezes and turns to frost and ice. People might be shocked at how much frost builds up over the course of a winter -- a lot! Of course, when the thaw comes this all melts at the same time, making a moisture problem into a much worse moisture problem.
If you live in cold weather and expect a lot of sub-zero temps in the winter, you need an interior vapour barrier.
Same thing in Norway. But if you insulate with cellulose or wood fiber, you could use a "vapour control" that lets some water vapour through (relatively low Sd value), as the fibers will transport that moisture to the outside. Basically how old log houses work. I should know, I'm typing this from inside one :)
yes, building science is a very complicated topic not easily understood. It varies from climate to climate, what works for hot climates won't work for cold climates. what works for sub zero climes may be less effective at more moderate cold climes. there is no blanket, one size fits all solution to insulation and vapor barriers. it's important to remember that EC is in the Pacific North West where it gets neither hot nor cold and A/C is often not needed in the summertime.
Hi Scott, I really enjoy your videos! You and I have chatted a few times at Gerretsens years ago when I also was a contractor in Roseburg, OR. I moved to Africa in 2007 so have not been working the trades in this area for quite a while. My ranch is just up the road from your place. Would love to come by sometime and say hello. I am very interested in learning to Blacksmith. I began watching your videos while living in Zimbabwe, realized very soon that I knew you. Keep up the good work and thanks again for emphasizing quality. Thanks, David
Keep up the good work!
Im just finishing up two drywall replacement jobs because someone put plastic sheeting behind the drywall and it caused condensation ,only between the wallboard and the plastic. And created a mold issue..I'm sure air infiltration and the inadequate insulation played a roll..and the fact both places were senior citizens who loved to keep the thermostat on 90..thats my story keep up the good work..!
I would say this about houses in hot climates. The use of silver-backed closed cell sheets in the roof space can really help to reduce radiative heat that comes off the roof tiles.
Would also assume you would want some insulation to keep the cool air from ac’s inside.
@@rogerandersen7046 hi, I was thinking about property I know in Brazil, they don’t have AC and use open windows for ventilation. After fitting this celotex under the roof, it dramatically reduced the radiative heat from the ceilings.
@@rogerandersen7046 and this too!
Good morning EC and the whole crew, and fellow subscribers and viewers. Greetings from Jamaica 🇯🇲. Scott you never stop amazing me on this built always ahead of the pack. This is the first am seeing this type of insulation. 👍👍👍
That is gonna be one super built beautiful home
Looks like a superb job 😉😉.
I'm in the process of insulating my crawl space ceiling "dining room floor". This was a beneficial video to watch right now:) thank you, for keeping up the good work, so we can keep up our good work👍🏻 enjoy the day everyone!
In the 45 years I've been in the building trades, there have been many changes. Gone are the days of rigid old timers saying things like, "This is the way it's always been done so, this is how we are doing it". And it's true that 100 year old houses, built on post and pier foundations are still standing here in Eureka, Ca. I learned a lot from the "Old Timers", and being one myself now, I can say with certainty that , In our profession , the only thing that never changes is the ethos of a Craftsman.
I've never seen it done this way... This is awesome!
Looks cozy.
Some input from a Euro-Carpenter in case anyone cares:
At my company the exterior walls and roof a usually structured like this (outside to inside):
> generic facade and roofing
> circulation layer
> ~2in wood fibre board
> structural timber and blow in cellulose (anywhere from 8-14in depending on the project)
> vapor retardant and "airtight" layer
> ~2in layer for pipes and cables, voids filled with wood fibre insulation
> wood chip board, like OSB but with much less bonding agent and from new not recycled wood
> sheetrock or loam boards, sometimes with internal coils for heating (like underfloor heating).
Interior walls are insulated with wood, hemp or jute fibre.
I should add that many of our clients value ecofriendly and "healthy" materials (no OSB for example, cause it releases VOCs over time) and i must say that working with such materials is quite enjoyable. On break you can literally pick up some hemp or wood fibre insulation and use it as a pillow and blanket to take a nap, which i would certainly not recommend with mineral wool ;)
That is a great choice! Well done too! The boys did a great job and your video was great as well!
Cellulose is a wonderful product. I've been installing it for over 20 years. It's what I put in my own home.
Always interesting to see the differences in construction from the US to the UK. If I've got my conversions right, I've just finished designing a house with walls (and roof) of an R value of 36. It's also compulsory to lay insulation between floors here in the UK to reduce sound transfer.
Interesting point about the windows, which is valid, but the detailing around the edges can be more troublesome than the units themselves - it's all about the detailing!
So glad to see that you didn't use spray foam as there are some horrible chemicals in it that I wouldn't want to be around with my family.
This video was really informative and satisfying to watch.
that garage is going to be a pleasure to get work done in in both summer and winter now. what a lovely investment you have made. awesome stuff. down in socal our biggest worry is keeping precious conditioned air in! I have since moved to central illinois where the biggest worry is keeping them toes warm when you're cozy in bed haha. be well.
Shaping up nicely Scott!
In the vaccum of space the challenge is not keeping warming it is actually keeping cool. With no air for heat to radiate through it just stays in one spot. So the ISS doesn't actually require a large amount of insulation, instead it requires a very sophisticated cooling system to help remove excess build up of heat.
That guy is a wizard with a staple gun. Check out that action at 1:25.
Yea I was watching that and was like I would like to hear some audio of that!! LOL Chicka Chicka Chicka Chicka Chicka Chicka Chicka Chicka Chicka Chicka Chicka Chicka
Three years ago I had two cabins built on the lake for rental income. Honestly they are not more than portable buildings (sheds) if I were able to have purchased off site and had them moved in I would have but due to trees they had to be site built. I'm in the south so cooling a place is more important than heating. The only thing I had different was I requested 2x6 exterior walls. Once it was built i finished everything out myself to save money and I used rockwool. One window in the bedroom one in the kitchen and one in the living room I used a minisplit to cool and heat the place and it's unbelievable how efficient those buildings are they do have double pane windows and are really tight. I've been pleased with rockwool, so much in fact this years I'll be building three more and plan on using rockwool in them as well
Good morning beautiful people!
Love to see the house coming together finally
Finally indeed!
House almost done so cool!
Been retired as a building inspector for 13 years. It just shows how quickly things change. This type of blown in insulation wasn't even known about here in central California when I retired in 2007. Wish I would have know about it when I built my house in 1997.
Dag gone it Scott, you did it again. I learned some today. Thank you.
That was amazing to watch
I built my 750 sq ft detached garage about 12 years ago. My plans was for a workshop/garage so I wanted insulation. The price of DIY insulation and having a contractor install was practically the same so opted for the contractor, (no brainer). WOW those guys were quick, efficient, and best of all comparable in price than DYI. Best move I could ever done. Firm believer in letting the pros (contractors) do their thing when at all possible.
Looks great. I wish the building that put my house together paid as close attention to these things as you do. It's hard to believe I have been watching your channel for over a year now watching this project transform. Can't wait to see how everything changes once dry wall is up.
cool lots of memories of the itch of fiberglass learned real quick to always have a loose long sleeved shirt or overalls or some kind of outer layer to get the glass in and a clean layer below close to the skin
Wondered about vapor barrier on the fiberglass wall insulation. Here in Delaware, all sill plates must be sealed and rock wool used for fire stop places, fiberglass doesn't cut there. Of course we also have 18" of blown in cellulose in the ceiling too.
In California here, we do dense packed cellulose in some of our high end homes. There's some benefits, insulating value doesn't degrade, and it does well around wires and pipes...which can get sloppy with fiberglass or rockwool. From my own experience its a better sound insulation than rockwool because the insulation is packed into the joist bay, so you get some of the air sealing you expect to get with a flash a batt system (2" close cell and rockwool or fiberglass). Basically gets you a lot of the benefits you get from a flash and batt at 1/3 the cost. It's actually really good value. The only drawback with these are the sheetrockers hate it. The problem with densepacking is it does budge outwards, no matter how you roll it, you will have a spot somewhere that pushes the drywall a little. We only use 5/8" so if you sequence your screws you can push it back in some, but sometimes you do get bellies in long walls usually right around waist level. I like the system a lot because of the value, but there are some drawback though.
It's good to see trades doing other trades work, I'm a roofer and I often do things like that during warranty inspections and fresh construction. We should be more involved and cooperative during the building process so we can provide a good product like you have built.
So fun watching the insulation being poured in.
One nice thing with Blown in solation you can run Electrical lines in the future because it’s blown in insulation will not block you from doing it
seriously, its pretty awesome. The spray foam stuff is a nightmare for the exact opposite reason, atleast with fiberglass you can kind of work with it with some elbow grease.
Insulation is a great topic it is my understanding that the use of the paper face or not depends on the need for a vapor barrier, I used unfaced on my walls because I have Tyvec on the outside and you don't want to trap vapor in the wall. I used faced on the ceilings because there is no vapor barrier on the attic side. At least that was how it was explained to me by an energy auditor. There is no one type of insulation that is correct for an entire house I used a combination of rock wool where I wanted fire resistance, I used fiberglass where I could to save money and help with sound insulation and provide for better zone heating and I used sheet Polyiso foam in areas where I needed a high R value in a small cavity. I also put a layer of XPS foam on the exterior to help with thermal bridging of the studs. As a do-it yourselfer you do pay more for materials because you're not buying in bulk but with the right advice from a professional you can save on installation, I also was able to buy a lot of the foam board at a discount because I got factory seconds, still perfectly good material I just had to cut and fit it a little more.
Nothing will make you appreciate a well insulated house quite like losing power for 24+ hours during a winter storm. That's why I'm at the girlfriend's nice newly remodeled place instead of my drafty old 1910 house with uninsulated walls. 😂
A decent wood stove wouldn't hurt either :)
Can u ask her if she has room for one more? Its freezing cold here
We went 11 days without power in the epic snow of 2019. A woodstove saved us most of the misery.
There is a reason why so many babies come 9 months after winter. 😉
More like, nothing makes you appreciate an alternative means of heating that doesn't require electricity.
Gettin' close! I'm both looking forward to, and dreading the end of this build.
Next comes the selling!
Can’t wait to see the drywall! I love this series it’s great information and entertainment
I love your videos! You've taught me so much about carpentry and using tools. I absolutely love when I'm doing a project and see you have a video that relates to it. I wish you'd do a video on MITER SAW tricks/tips like you did for the skil saw. Please!!
Hi Scott, Another great video. Over in the UK we have natural wool insulation available which is a great natural insulation, easy to handle, good comparable R value and none of the dangers of working with fibre glass. Andy UK
I did blown cellulose insulation here in NE Florida decades ago. Boy I hated that work in the middle of the summer in an attic space. Crawl down out of there looking like a gray abominable snowman. Worst of all was adding insulation to mobile homes. The static electricity discharge could blow you right off the ladder if you did not keep everything grounded.
It's mesmerizing to watch the cellulose being blown in place.
Windows are not always increasing energy cost !
More windows means less electrical light.
And south oriented window bring solar energy inside, it's even the only heat source in passives houses !
great video. they all are. really enjoy the explanation and narration. always worth watching
Savings by insulating floor space is highly underestimated. Bedrooms and living spaces are heated at different temperatures. Insulation brings some acoustic benefits too as you mentioned. I would always suggest insulating at least the bathrooms as they use fans and windows get opened more frequently. If a building contains two different heat zones (bedrooms - living space) insulate the two zones even if it is only an R10 (delta T in between the two is not as massive as to the outside of the house and definitely insulate Bathrooms to account for additional venting. Only my take on the matter. The construction of residential buildings get often a bit to based on codes and general practice - think how you use a house and where you spend time and what the air quality will be like in the rooms and then treat the areas as zones. I do enjoy your videos keep it up
I've watched every episode and continue to look forward to seeing the next lots of great info with out all the fuss
Looks like a great insulation job, just gotta make sure you have plenty of fresh air coming in.
You pretty much nailed it. There is another ease of no paper as well tho.. With the paper on it it's harder to get a good seal at the points where bitter ends meet the plates and each other in cases of cut pieces in the same 'cell'. (Stud bay as we call it in the midwest) the paper makes it much harder to "mash" the pieces together or into the plate. Also we've come along way in the materials used and the original (primary) reason for the paper was so the materials wouldn't be as much in contact with skin. Now adays the materials used are much less irritating to the skin...
Man! I want to live in that house!👍
Great video! I learn so much from you. Can't wait for the sheetrock.
You make a good point about what insulation you need per the climate. However, as far as insulation goes, air infiltration is the largest source of heat loss in a home. So for my dollar, a 2" application or spray foam by a qualified installer would do better than 6" of fiberglass. Technically the fiberglass is higher r value, but in practical applications the reduction of air movement will mean a more comfortable environment than the fiberglass.
Love the channel! I'm getting into welding and watching through your videos on the subject!