Upgrade Your Router by Adding a Network Switch
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- The new smaller routers are awesome, but they lack one thing; Ethernet Ports. That is where a Network Switch comes to save the day. Today I show you how to add a switch by upgrading my 8-Port switch, to a 16 port switch to give more devices a dedicated Ethernet connection.
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Is my network room under control or a complete mess? Did I miss anything?
Looks well thought out, arranged and cable managed etc. I'd say more than good enough imo. Especially for a room dedicated to just this one task.
Nice video Brett
Surprised you didn't go with POE, it's always a good option to have in the future.
I wanna start building my smart home network and Im gonna copy your network room. Haha
Brett, how were you able to plug your TV into the network switch? The TV's ethernet cable has to be extremely extremely long, from the living room, to this little room? Thanks for an answer!
To help translate some of the stuff you didn't understand: First off the switch is operating in Full-Duplex natively but auto-senses the connection speed and connection type being either full-duplex (meaning like having a conversation over a normal phone call where one person can talk over the other), versus half-duplex (like having a conversation over walkie-talkies where only one person can transmit at a time and the other must listen). This full duplex effectively allows for 1000mbps transmission simultaneously in both directions giving your new 16-port switch a 32Gbps non-blocking (i'll get to this in a second) switching fabric. Now non-blocking basically means what it says; the switch does not block other ports from communicating when another port is busy with traffic. Jumbo frames are great to use if the high use devices on your network support it. Otherwise stick to the traditional 1500 bytes MTU size. The reason Jumbo frames work better in high use is less decoding of header traffic and more transmission of payload data per Ethernet Frame at layer 2, the datalink layer.
Wow this a great summation! I always felt that using an unmanaged switch wouldn't take advantage of his gig internet and would have to share that data rate cross all 15 devices if he had all of the ports active. Not as dumb of a switch as I thought. I currently have the same 8 port switch that he replaced and only have devices connected that don't need gig speeds. I might see if a more demanding device can access the full duplex through one of my switch's ports.
Yeah but can I still get porn 😆
One of the best "fools guide to home networking" available.
I surely cannot mess up my setup now.
Nice one.
0:03 Wait, how did you know I was going to ask that?! Love that setup you did for your home Network, 👍 earned.
Lol.
A simple and easy solution. And switches aren't expensive at all. I had to get one as my video camera system needed ethernet connection. It's plug and play, with no headaches.
I have a 4 port switch and its great for me at the moment.
I did not know there were so many devices you could connect to a switch!
You'd be amazed to see a switch weighing 150kg and having 192 ports. 🙃
Level 2 switches are a great way to expand your network. They are typically cheaper than routers and usually have more ports as well. In a home environment, there is no reason to have more than one router.
If you upgrade from an older router, you can disable the routing functionality on the old one and basically just use it as a switch/wireless access point. Good way to repurpose older stuff
Also there is one thing where wired networks have great advantage over Wi-Fi. Wired networks are working almost everytime in Full Duplex mode and also switches have fast backplane, that can handle a lot of traffic among multiple ports. That means if for instance NAS communicates directly with PC and takes 800 Mbit/s of bandwith in direction PC -> NAS, then there is still free 1 Gbit/s bandwith in direction into PC, then second PC can pull 800 Mbit/s for instance from internet uplink to the switch.
On the other hand Wi-Fi can be imagined as "wireless hub". Hubs used to resend incoming packets to all other ports and could run only half duplex so for example 100 Mbit/s Ethernet line was shared bandwith for both directions. The same applies for Wi-Fi.
As an example: If Wi-Fi has theoretical speed 400 Mbit/s (practical 250 Mbit/s), then you can either use whole bandwith in single direction and get full 250 Mbit/s, but not 250 Mbit/s on Rx and Tx at the same time. However if Full Duplex Gigabit ethernet has 1000 Mbit/s, then there is dedicated 1000 Mbit/s Tx link and dedicated 1000 Mbit/s Rx link and they can be used at the same time unlike on WiFi or archaic hubs.
I love your clear articulation and explanation. Easily one of the most pleasant sounding narrators on RUclips! (IMHO)
If you put a door hinge on the right side of the wooden board, you can route the wires behind it and use holes in the board for routing them to the devices. The swivel board will let you manage the cables easily
To simplify if it even more, the switch is like a power strip to give more plugs to more devices. Or it basically adds more connections to the router.
Yep!
Saves thirteenth minutes of your life.
One thing that you missed is IGMP snooping. It is very very very important with routed IPTV (which a lot of providers use if you are not using cable-tv) or any other multicast streams with traffic going through that switch, the Chromecast for example. Every switch in a home-situation should be one with IGMP Snooping if people don't know what they are doing. Buy a switch without this and very weird problems can occur on the network from speeds slowing down back to 10Mbps or just plain lost data-sessions with the ISP. Unfortunately I see this more than often at my job working for an ISP.
Brett, the proper way to wire your network is from your modem/router to the switch and then the Nest WiFi Mesh point should be cascaded down from the switch along with all your other devices. Unless of course the Nest WiFi device is performing some type of firewall. Which leads me to my next point, using a broadband supplied modem/router from your provider could leave you very vulnerable. Get a good firewall/router behind that modem and use cloudflare as your DNS. I've been doing this for over thirty years and cut my teeth on some of the first routers in the industry from Wellfleet and Cisco and worked with some of the first switches from Kalpana and Creshendo so I'm glad to help with advice.
In some case you might want to use a switch with link aggregation. Some NAS make use of this. Generally you would need a managed switch to achieve this.
GREAT JOB DONE. WHEN I WAS RUNNING RJ45 CABLE TO ALL THE ROOMS AND ALL THRU THE HOUSE, I WAS INFORMED IT IS TOTAL WASTE WHEN WIFI AND EXTENDER AND REPEATER ARE AVAILBALE. BUT THE SPEED FOR ALL CONNECTIONS WAS NOT ACHIVED THRU WIFI EVEN WITH THE HELP OF EXTENDERS. THANKS A LOT NOW I AM ALSO PLANNING TO USE THE NETWORK SWITCHES WHERE EVER REQUIRED TO GET THE FULL INTERNET SPEED. THANKS AGAIN KESAVAN RAM FROM BANGALORE, INDIA
Here the cable/fibre modem should be in NAT mode with a firewall using a fixed local IP at the output. This is your front door so you should have mayor security there. The wifi modem arguably could be the second device in the line to the switch. From a speed point of view it would be better to have the output of the modem directly plugged into the switch and plugging the wifi access point into one of the switch ports. Access to the NAS from a wifi device would be much faster that way as the packets only go through the switch, not up the line that's used for internet access.
Another thing to consider is not using firewall functions in a modem or wifi AP device. These device work much faster in bridge mode because they tend to have limited cpu power. Using a dedicated firewall device (like cisco, ubiquiti or mikrotik) will give a far better overall throughput and way better security as they don't have ARP table overflow issues that result in lost connections. This is very noticeable when using home IOT. Thus the setup would be: modem -----> firewall -----> switch -----> wifi AP and others.
For the truly paranoid connecting the switch directly to ISP modem and the rest to the switch means the ISP won’t see any of your internal traffic, which might matter when there’s a NAS.
Love the video! Would love to know why you chose for Google Nest Wifi. Since most people with big smart homes use unifi gear.
Great question. My original reason was for simplicity and the fact that I am already controlling most of my home through the Google Home app so it it just made the most sense.
Lately I have been hearing great things about the Unifi system and might possibly upgrade after I have 1GB fiber in the home. It all depends if the Nest Wifi can push those types of speeds without an issues.
I use the Archer AX 6000 from Tp Link, have 3 floors plus terrace and front porch. Wifi goes full blast everywhere ( About 900 sq feet per floor, 3 floors). Unifi is the apple of routers, very expensive, well designed, but not better
@@philipperostin, can you tell me more about your setup? I have three floors and connection in basement. Second floor is spotty. Thank you
@@lucaslegz My house has TV cable (Coaxial) installed everywhere so I use a MOCA adapter connected to my router that send Ethernet back in the CABLES , and with anotheranotherM0ca adapter at any available cable outlet you can have ethernet any where in the house, thus you can connect an access point (or an old wifi router) any where You may need it. Its an expensive solution because these adapters are expensive but I have full speed on 3 floors and 2200 sq ft
@@philipperostin Does moca support full gigabit Ethernet speeds?
You need to take care of that cable management! Maybe a good video idea?
You should've seen what it use to look like... Definitely something I have thought about covering. I'm still trying to figure out the best way to do it.
The best and smartest network for the money is all Ubiquit my man! I keep everything ubiquiti! I have UDM Dream machine pro router/firewall/NVR/security gateway with 8 ports. Than I have 5 ubiquiti AP's that broadcast a wireless signal through out my home. I have a 16 port ubiquit unifi lite switch. I also have a ubiquiti 5 port switch. All of this is controlled via a built in controller on the UDM dream machine pro and monitored on a dashboard URL. I also have 2 ubiquiti wireless g3 instant cameras and a Ubiquit G4 doorbell camera! This is the best solution I have found ,but it does cost a pretty penny, but you get what you pay for!
Wouldn't it be best to have your own modem instead of connecting it to that and having to trouble running double nat
Plus the fact that he can save about $12 a month in rental fees.
You won't get a double NAT as long as you put the modem/router combo unit into bridge mode.
@@TurboSpeedWiFi That maybe true. But when the cable company pushes a firmware update. Modem won’t be in bridge mode any more. At least that has happened in the past.
@@robertsteich7362 Yes that stinks. I really wish ISPs would do away with these modem / router combos.
I have fiber to my home, and no modem is required. My router is plugged directly into the wall and everything works great. Speed tests are extremely variable depending on which site I use and the time of day. For example, my download speed has been less that 1 Mbps to over 888 Mbps depending on which site I use. My best upload speed is about 506 Mbps. That's in the late afternoon.
He most likely has cable internet and not full fiber line since he mentions that his isp's box is a modem router most likely a docsis router combo. If he's mistaken about this, then yeah he's stacking 2 routers for no reason and can use his nest as his main router. Also he's getting robbed for renting a router he doesn't need because all he would need is a moca to ethernet adapter or ask his isp to change the signal from coxial into cat 6/5e. When I got my fiber, I made sure the installer gave me an ethernet connection 20 years ago. Now they do this by default since they realize than a dedicated cat is better than splitting coax for gigabit speeds.
@@riopato2009 probably.
Why wouldn't you connect the wireless access point to one of the ports on the switch and then connect the switch directly to the modem? Currently all the switch traffic is having to slog through the WAP to get to the router and the internet. The WAP is a bottle neck. If you want to prioritize wireless connection to the WAP, you can prioritize traffic from the WAP through the switch to the modem and the internet.
Why not Modem -> Switch -> Wifi and the rest equipment?
Ha I just asked the same question. If the nest is managing the routing it would make sense to connect to the nest but if the nest acts as a Wifi access port, then it wouldn't matter since the switch and nest would be on the same ip address. He would be better off just getting a cheaper modem the way he has it setup now instead of stacking 2 routers.
You need a router that will give internal IP addresses for the devices (DHCP is required when you are using more than a single device) and a simple firewall is a requirement these days.
@@avivb2766 Normally thats the cable modem unless its setup in bridge mode (if you say, wanted to use a pfsense firewall, or ubiquiti security gateway, for example).
Contrary to what is written on the box, I would not consider that switch a "business solution". For about 50% more in price, you could have gotten a Cisco managed switch with layer-3 inter-VLAN routing, Link Aggregation Grouping (LAG), SNMP and a whole lot more, which really is a business solution. Also, the switch should connect directly to the router and everything else should be connected to the switch. Even though your switch is a layer-2 device, it can transfer packets far faster than your router.
Was thinking the same thing. Though some people just want plug and play.
Nice info, great video as always.👍
Great vid! I connect the cat 6 cable directly from the xfinity Modem router to the switch and it works. But again you did a great job.
Is there an advantage to plugging the modem to the router and then the switch, rather than plugging the modem directly to the switch and plugging the router to the switch as a device?
Great question. The benefit of doing it the way I did is those devices can then be secured under the the router settings I have set and it allows me to monitor their usage as well, instead of relying on the modem to do that. It would work as your have mentioned but then there would be no tracking of those devices.
Many routers required to have a direct connection to modem. Putting the switch before the router will not work.
I am very jealous of your Internet speeds. I live in Parkes, which is in CW, NSW Australia (4.5hrs west of Sydney) and the highest speed we have managed is 25mbps ⬆️ & 5mbps ⬇️ Our service is Fibre to the Node then Copper to our house, 4yrs ago we were only getting 1mbps so this was an upgrade but with the update in technology it’s starting to play up.
Nice video. Suggestions if I may, with so many types of devices you really should be using a router that supports VLANs and a smart switch that supports VLANs and separate out your network for security reasons. For instance make a VLAN for your IoT devices, make a VLAN for your Synology NAS, Make a main network VLAN and a guest network VLAN and so on. If you have security devices such as an alarm and cameras make a VLAN for them. Your already using the great NAS by Synology pickup one of there routers and you'll have a great router that supports VLANs and built in security and reporting all FREE of charge. Just my 2 cents
I dont think your unmanaged switch supports link aggregation with that Synology NAS you may want to take a closer look into it
No way that thing is doing any kind of link aggregation.
The switch doesnt the nas does. Afaik both dont need to.
@@angrynerd2103 true aggregation requires bo th sides. The NAs may be able to do load-balancing or active-standby on its own.
When I saw that network room of yours @0:57sec, I clicked subscribed immediately 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Just trying to set the right expectations for what you can do. Haha!
You can also add a switch to every room if you need more connections. I have 4 sub-switches connected to my main switch.
We just did this as well in my parents home. We have now wired all of the things.
Can you connect an ethernet cable from the main switch to each switch and get the best connection or is better to run an ethernet cable from the router to each individual switch?
@@cordellboss I assume by "main switch" you mean the modem (?), so, the modem has only one output which has to go to the router and everything goes from there. I don't know any other way.
@@TheProgrammerGuy Main switch refers to the first switch in the signal chain and not the modem. A modem is not a switch.
@@TurboSpeedWiFi Exactly why it is in quotes and with (?)...
I use to have a lot of different hubs like you have and I just found it was painful to try and look after them all. I have just moved to one central hub now, in my case Home Assistant, but there are others around as well. It took my Home Automation from 5 hubs, 5 ethernet cables and 5 power outlets down to 1 power outlet and 1 ethernet connection and a central place to configure everything. :)
Thanks for the great video . I have been considering the Nest WiFi and wasn't sure if the router base had an additional ethernet port.
I find it interesting how you have your stuff just mounted to a wooden panel, as I use an IKEA SKÅDIS pegboard instead and mount most of my networking stuff (and the power boards for those) to that using the variety of accessories available for it.
I recently switched to a new ISP and on the plan the salesperson recommended to me (after I told them what I had with my previous ISP), they provide a combined modem and router that doesn't have Wi-Fi, then provide two separate Wi-Fi mesh units that are solely access points.
I replaced my network switches to match what the ISP provided for their pay TV service. StarHub, my previous ISP, provided D-Link DGS-1005A for connecting multiple receivers to their Fibre TV service (that they stopped offering to new residential subscribers but still offer to business subscribers), but Singtel, which I switched to, provides the TP-Link TL-SG105 instead for Singtel TV, and the contractor handing the installation mentioned that the D-Link switch caused video lag issues in their testing.
As such, I replaced my second D-Link DGS-1005A and DGS-1008A with TP-Link TL-SG105 and TL-SG108 respectively, just so they they'd match. I can't really use a 16 port switch because the router doesn't support link aggregation.
However, I didn't stop there, as instead of buying the regular SG108, I went for the SG108E as that's what I would consider to be semi-managed and that supports link aggregation, then I'll replace the regular SG108 already in my bedroom with another SG108E.
I do like how TP-Link coloured the regular network switch and Easy Smart Switch models differently!
Nice, I went with the TP-Link 8-Port POE 4/4 switch, to go along with my 3 TP-Link EAP225. To which I'm seeing 600 Mbps on wifi, 950 Mbps Wired (AT&T Fiber).
I have modem that have built in 8 port switch and all my device connect to modem and it’s work great
Got any old wi-fi routers in your home? With most you can switch off the wi-fi and use them as a switch hub as most have one in and four out ports. Videos on RUclips show this.
You can also use them as range extenders and access points
If you have free ethernet ports available around your home you might consider switching to a mesh network that supports backhauling. It's a great way to ensure your wifi maximizes the bandwidth you're paying for.
Nice overall, worst thing about your setup is the Nest WiFi! You'll get better WiFi speeds if you change it.
Take your old switch 8 port and make that the switch for just hubs. Keep the 16 for other ports.
Do you have other google home wifi access points too?
Great idea. I have a Wifi point but it is just mesh. No port available on it.
Damn Brett you with the business! I love it
I did this a few months ago because of the issue you mentioned. I have a mesh network and for whatever reason, the connection between the “pucks” is horrid and I get terrible speeds on Wi-Fi.
I ran cable to each puck and plugged everything into a switch. I also hardwired a hand ful of other items such as my PS5 since that can take full advantage of the speed.
I would recommend the purchase of a POE switch instead, so you can power poe capable devices and eliminate power adapters.
I agree, cabling devices is ever most stable. Switch should be with ports looking down, to avoid dust in the physical ports..
But what if I use all 16 ports...??? Muhaaahaaahaaaahaaaaaaaa.
@@TechWithBrett same thing my friend.. networking best practices makes the devices works properly. Another suggestion would be sell that mesh kit and buy a good AP ac/ax PoE (more or less for the same price), and you can get the same internet speed wirelessly and wired, remembering that the wifi Mesh is a solution created to avoid cabling. Best of lucks
Very clear explanations, thank you very much!
Hey Brett. I have a similar setup at my home with a 16-port switch (also from tp-link) and I realized that for me, you gotta just reboot the switch once in a while to avoid hiccups/slow connections. Not sure if this is applicable but just putting it out there
Great recommendation. Getting everything setup I had to once but since then it was been working well. That will be my first troubleshooting steps of issues come up.
Small switches like this typically don't need to be rebooted as they don't really have any intelligence. The routers should be rebooted once in a while.
You must have Comcast/Xfinity...Have never had to reboot anything with FIOS...Xfinity was everyday.
It's not the switch at fault but probably something else. Usually a switch needs no reboot at all except when it stops working entirely, from the small 5-port switches by TP-Link up to de 48-ports. My switch had an uptime of over a year without any problems. Had to reset it because I messed up some settings in the SDN. Some switches aren't even ment to be rebooted as a bad IT guy didn't save the config into boot.
@@NickyHendriks You are correct. The switch is not the problem. The problem got solved because all connections in the router were closed when the switch got rebooted. This is because the ARP table in the router got emptied. The loss of connections is mostly due to filling up the ARP table to its limits, overflow results in connection loss. Small routers are known to have these problems. Wifi routers typically have a 32 connections limit because of the limited cpu power.
“wifi fiber” 😂😂😂😂
I have one available Ethernet port left. I have only one remaining device that needs it; I just have to snake the cable to that spot, and then terminate it. All my other connections don’t do enough traffic to warrant a direct Cat6 run, or don’t have an Ethernet jack.
Why not plug switch directly to router? Is there advantage to going through nest device?
Why don't they call these splitters? Makes a lot more sense since it's not really switching anything. Am I missing something? Thanks 😊👍
Good video. i think you should upgrade the cables- most of your cables are CAT5 or 5E its time to move to CAT 6 at least or even CAT7
good tips. I have however fibre Internet (maximum is 1Gbps/500Mbps), however I'm paying for 250 and I'm getting through the Wifi exactly 250/100, which is for now enough for me.
Yes, I have not watched the entire video nor if I read the comments but you could use a patch panel and clean up the wires.
One thing missing from this. Documentation and/or labelling! With so many devices and cables you need a way of keeping track of what things are what and where they go.
If purchasing new cables or putting in a permanent solution make sure to get CAT 6 ethernet cables. It will be more than you need, but future proof your wiring.
I think you did a fine job, I have one question what was the program on your phone to check you lines - thanks
Gary
9th hi btw
I like your guide and how you explaining everything, do u have a review of Managed Switch? :(
Thanks! Awesome show. I like the details and that you don't assume, I know the obvious. Thanks.
Yea, I think I want my firewall/IPS first after my cable modem, then my L3 switch and from there my AP and other switches, devises, etc
WIFI in my system dropped after 15 (at most) minutes connection. I stopped using it way back in 2000, Now I use only LAN wires.
Quick question. Could you connect another switch from one of the cables from the first switch? Very informative video, thank you.
Technically yes. It's called daisy chaining; just a short cable between and they're good. The problem with this is that you create a bottle neck from the second switch to the first so it's not advised. Example: this theoretical and ideal but its the basic gist. you have 1gb internet and a network storage (nas) on switch 1 (sw1). On sw2 you have 10 internet hungry devices . That means each device can still have 100mb of internet because of the gig connection from sw1 to sw2. The problem comes in if any of your devices start accessing from the nas at high speeds. Let's say one computer downloads from the nas at 200mb per second. Because of the bottle neck every other device on sw2 now has to split 800mb of throughput (about 90 mb each) even though your internet is faster. That may not sound like a lot but when you consider all the devices in a home that can talk to each and in some use cases it can be a major issue. Most everyone will recommend a bigger switch but some cases can't be avoided so its a matter if your situation has the wiggle room to not have it be an issue.
@@kevinvlsqz Very informative. Explained it perfectly, thank you.
Yes.
A Cisco Catalyst 29xx Series Switch does work the best in a residential environment.
Thanks for the recommendation.
i got one in my network for my poe setup
I have a modem/router and another router. When i connected the router to the modem I used a Ethernet cable to connect my Xbox to the new router, but I got a double NAT problem. (Both routers were assigning up adresses) would the switch help this??
I just replied to this. You need to put the modem/router in bridge mode so it is not acting as a router and DHCP server. It is a simple fix.
Why is it important to use router instead of connecting the switch to modem? Is it because of security risk or isn't capable of providing IPS address to each device it is plugged to?
Helpful video,Will your router be the dhcp server ? Or the switch will ?
I love TP link stuff, I just don't like the placement of the power port and leds, I like to see the leds but not see all the wiring, its like its meant to be rack mounted but not rack mountable
Do you have a video on how you have Ethernet cables in every room?
I started my comp time with DOS 2 and the first modem I got was a 28.8 which cost me almost $300.00. I still cannot believe I loved the speed I had then :) haha
Thanks for the video. I also use a switch but it is an unmanaged switch. I don’t have as many devices as you do. But I do not think you really need the faster fiber connection because the speed you are getting now is fast enough for just about any task that you have. So if the fiber is going to cost more I would pass on it.
Fiber is getting cheaper by the day that a lot of isps are planning to offer multi gig speeds in the next 5 years maybe sooner. The latest routers are starting to add 2 wan ports that link together and some already setup to take 2.5 gig speeds.
@@riopato2009 why would a normal household need that kind of speed? It's still going to be more expensive than what is actually needed.
Gonna be paying a premium to dl your new video games every so often twice as fast.
@@Dannyuh7 that's what they use to say with DSL internet. Eventually gigabit internet will be what 100mbs use to be. 2.5 gbs will be the norm and 5gbs will be the premium. Technology just improves over time and costs less when infrastructure is finally in place.
@@riopato2009 nah, it was understood that we needed faster speeds at those times to achieve streaming and gaming but what else is there now? The rate at which this growth is needed is slowing down is all I'm saying. No one has need for a gigabit dl in a normal household today. It's a waste of money.
@@Dannyuh7 depends on the needs of some households. Home automation is taking a big chunk out of gigabit bandwidth and most RUclipsrs have ridiculous needs for their channel. Technology isn't going to slow down for the people who don't need it. As a perspective, I've had gigabit Internet for the past 4 years. The prior 15 years was over 300mbs. Costs from my perspective and my wallet pretty much stayed the same and in some cases became cheaper through service deals. Idk what it's like to be satisfied with what I had before when I've already have what I got now for a period of time and paying almost the same price.
To many cables for 2022. I don’t know how big your house is but I think you’ll have a great wifi connection for your whole house if you get 2 or 3 wifi 6 asus routers and mesh then together. Or have them all wired with that system you have and put the routers all around your house. It seems like you really enjoy doing all that.
Wouldn't it be better to go from the IP modem to a managed switch with a firewall to the other LAN devices? Give an extra layer of protection to everything??
I just upgraded to the GOOGLE NEST WiFi , I tried to connect to my old google wifi (hockey pucks) with no success. Is there an updated video on that or do you have an video on connecting them to make them work with my new goggle nest WiFi. Please let me know. Thanks
I started off with Linksys then I went to D-link, Netgear and finally TP-link. I'll have to say I am quite please with TP-Link products. The main gripe I have and it's not confined to TP-link is that I have been scouring the internet for a switch that has 1-16 ports with the lights on the front and ports on the rear, a true desktop switch. Not one manufacturer makes this configuration except for TP-Link and that switch is not gigabit ethernet, only fast ethernet.
Curious why you don't have fiber FIP instead of coax cable?
Nice setup and presentation, thank u.
Get rid of the company cable/wifi modem. Cox panoramic modems, you can access the modem and turn off both radio's, but Cox still leaves one turned on for Cox guest access. There is no way around it except for turning it in and buying your own cable modem.
Would you make a video for wired network for tall building having five floors.
Hi Brett, great work and video as always. How does one go about connecting their devices to the switch, like if my computer desk is in the living room and the switch is tucked away in a cupboard space how long of a cable might I need, or would I have to get a specialist to come and install cables properly to every room so that I can get a wired connection?
Excellent question and I just recently did this in my parents home and will see if I can turn the footage into a full video about it. We bought Cat 5e cables in 100' lengths and started at were the switch was and use some fish line to route it through the attic and then drilled a hole in the frame of the wall to drop the cable down in the rooms. Then you need a crimper to crimp each end of the cable. There are quite a few videos on this you can find by searching "how to run ethernet cable." It can certainly be done DIY but for more hard to reach places and installer might be worth the price.
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. I am working on the same and wondering whether you can plug your switching hub directly to your modem, and plug your router into the switching hub?
No, you can’t really do that because the router needs to come before the switch in the line.
So it’s the modem then router then switch.
The router is what enables your home devices on the switch to get out to the internet. The switch cannot get to the internet on its own. Routers communicate *between* different networks, like your home network and the internet. Whereas switches help the devices on the *same* network communicate with each other and the router. Hope this helps!
You have a combined modem/router device. Unless you turn off any NAT, WiFi, Dhcp, and firewall services in this device--essentially turning the device into an IP bridge--expect these duplicated services to cause problems.
True hopefully it is in bridge mode. It is amazing how many people do not know about double NAT causing issues.
I have purchased 4 different brand of 5 ports switches over the years. Only one of them is a managed switch. I don't want to waste my money. Shall l connect them to one router?
Can I connect a second old router that i have to the switch and use it as an access point to extend my wifi range
don't want to mount the ports up, dust will get in them...I always mount sideways or down, like you had it at first.
nice, just the tight cables turn, is that stressing the cables or just fine?
As long as you are not pinching the cable it should be fine.
I'm surprised the wifi is that slow. My mesh system averages 500Mbps at 100 feet from the house with the outdoor router. I get 600Mbps indoors. My ethernet averages 820Mbps with 6ms of latency.
Your network closet is a good start but I highly recommend you make a video on going from that to a rack, patch panel and poe switch that you can rack.
P.S. why don't you have the synology in your I.T. closet?
Thanks for the recommendation. Where to people store that kind of thing? I had the Synology in there but this is actually the water main, furnace, and water heater room as well. We had some drain issues and I moved the NAS to another room, once that is also less dusty.
@@TechWithBrett got it, keep up the good work.
@@TechWithBrett when you start getting rack stuff it can get big and loud so a dedicated closet or room is useful.
@@TechWithBrett It depends on your situation, in your case the basement where you have the it stuff is not a good place. The best place is one with sufficient ventilation, a controlled steady temperature and preferably where noise doesn't matter. A NAS is really a server so should be treated as one. Also a UPS for the NAS is a good idea.
Get a pfsense box and set the cable modem to bridge / modem only mode
I have connected a 7" monitor that only requires 7W and the right LED diode lights up green, but the left one lights up orange. Why? My network has constantly 107 Mbit and 12 ping.
Why not use 2 smaller switches (connected to each other) to allow for some redundancy in case one dies?
Even though I already know how to network my house, I like seeing other people's solutions.
For mine I have the modem/router in my living room where the phone socket is, connected to three devices, one goes to the TV box which is provided by the same company as my ISP, the other to a switch in my living room, then the 3rd cable goes into a powerline socket.
Upstairs I have a powerline socket linking to a switch in my bedroom/office that connects my PC and some game consoles, and another powerline socket that connects to another switch in the entertainment room to a TV and some other game consoles.
If I had the time I'd run ethernet through the walls instead of relying on powerline, but it's a brick house so running cables isn't as easy as some American homes which are all drywall and hollow spaces. That'll maybe be a future project.
It may be worth moving the Nest wifi to a more central location, keeping it in the cupboard means reducing the amount of signal around the rest of the house, even though you have another Nest upstairs for it to mesh with.
wouldnt your network work better by connecting your switch to your isp router and add your devices to your switch, then connect your nest wifi router to one of the remaining 3 ports on the isp router and configure it as a wifi access point? This would avoid double NAT and having to go thru two networks
Yep. And did he say he has a 1 gbps connection now but will have a 1000 mbps connection after switching to fiber?
Google wifi is holding your wifi speeds back. I've been doing a lot of research on this lately. Choose a different wifi mesh system and watch your system speed up dramatically.
Here is an update: ruclips.net/video/nL8mdH5y49U/видео.html
Just started watching your channel,, enjoyed the video. Just one suggestion is to move your hubs away from each other. This will help signal from colliding into each other. I would for a WISP and signal is one of my specialty. I also run a smart home and moving my hubs has increased connectivity to my smart devices.
you went through all that effort to mount em on that fancy piece of wood just to use mismatched ethernet cables xD
One step at a time.
Yeah 😂 he is starting out RUclips money will help as soon he buys his Tesla 😂. I will say I am surprised you didn’t go for UniFi Dream machine . It’s surprisingly powerful and will meet your needs way better. However, you do lose the integrated smart stuff in google home. That said, if you travel a lot and need access to network from anywhere from the world it can provide its VPN and UniFi amplify routers another might be better as it’s dead simple.
Hey Brett, just came across your video, great job!! Two questions, first, what Category of Ethernet Cable are you using from your devices to your switch? Have you found any issues with the cable distances from devices to the switch?
Right now I am using Cat 5e. My cables aren't that long so I haven't had any issues. If you are going to run some lines I would recommend Cat 6 as it supports 1Gbps from up to 100m away.
Nice setup.
Why not run from the modem to the switch then from the switch to the wifi router?
Great video. Does the link aggregate on your nas work by just plugging it in with 2 cables? Was there any software adjustment needed?
It won't do link aggregation without both the NAS and the switch configured for it. In this case the switch is not capable so he can not do link aggregation. However, the NAS could be configured for load-balancing or Active/Standby with this switch.
I’d connect the switch directly to the router unless you’re running it in modem mode and only one port is active.