Paint Spraying: Base coat application
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- From time to time unexpected end results pop-up when Standoblue Basecoat is already dry. A blending mistake or dust / dirt contamination are the most common problems that painters are faced with. Follow for my quick fix.
In this video my underlying base was still visible after I had applied the base coat so I had to come up with a solution to fix this issue. I reapplied the blender/wet bed and mixed my blender into my remaining base coat and reapplied this within the area of the wet bed.
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Awesome video buddy and thanks for sharing those tips with us you never to old learn 😂that finish was spot on keep it up I really enjoyed that video much love ❤️💪💪👌🙏👍💯💯
Thanks, I really appreciate it. 💪💪💪🤘🤘🤘
Fantastic viewing there , it answered a few questions i had . I v got a walcon hte clear and was wondering if there were fine for base. I v just got my first job in a dealer painting , i v come from a mechanic back ground . Your videos have been a massive help , especially as we use spies hecker . Thanks for all your tips and knowledge you share with everyone 👍👍
Thanks I really appreciate it 👍 I'm going to start making more content now. Maybe podcasting my thoughts on the industry here in the UK. How are you getting on with the transition from mechanic to painter?
Hi Paul, sorry for the late reply I was hoping to watch this again yesterday but real life got in the way. I've never heard of the basecoat not liking to be reapplied over itself when it's dry but as you said it looked covered when it was still wet but you did a great job sorting it out👌
I don't class myself as a proper painter for what I do but when I first started I used to get loads of nibs in my clearcoat they were always peppered in them and being self taught I had no idea what was causing the problem, after chatting with Tony for several days about it he said send a sample panel over to me, well it took him seconds to find what was wrong it was just loads of dirt nibs so was able to alter my prep and sort the problem, if it wasn't for all the help Tony has given me I wouldn't be painting now.
Anyway mate I really enjoyed the video and loved that it was a longer one, catch you in the next one (sorry for the long comment😁)
Hey John, no worries. I like the longer replies. I think your work is spot on mate, so whatever Tony told you has worked 💪 imagine what your work would be like in a booth mate 👌👌👌
The kind one visit paint I'm using in these videos is becoming more and more popular. Many body shops are moving over to it as is more efficient in speed and booth running costs. So I hope this trick will help someone out.
As always mate I really appreciate your support 🤘 Thanks
Another great video for sure Paul. I spray solvent for now but it's always good to hear you can get out of a bad situation. The only thing I can say I've been doing differently on the super transparent colors is the cell phone trick. You take a picture in decent indoor lighting of the panel and you edit the photo to black and white and using the edited photo you come up with your own gray shade for your sealer or sandable primer. If I'm doing a bumper I'll follow their rules but if I have room to blend it's all fair game and I choose a better shade than they suggest usually. If I had any brains I would have spray outs in every gray shade and take the photo with those included.
I appreciate your brutal honesty both the telling a job to get rucked and the theory on the cheap respray using insurance. Speaking of key jobs if it's a female doing the act there's way deeper scratches and boy are they longer. Continuous motion all down the side. Men don't seem to key cars as deep I've noticed.
Yea it's pretty crazy to think that people are doing it. Or there a just way to many crazy relationships in our catchment area 😆
100% I would have sealed this car with the appropriate gray shade and used blending solvent on the edges to melt it. Would have saved you a ton of work and base coat. I found the exact same thing as you with spies hecker when you have to go back and wet it up. I had a recommendation to use the hardner in low hiding basecoats and it won’t let it suck in as much.
That's a great tip I'll keep in mind (the hardener)
The primer was the correct grey shade it and it appeared to cover while wet it just looked transparent when It dried.
Thanks.
You did a nice job I forgot to mention that. Some of the axalta struggles are very very tiresome.
The other reason I seal it is because the spots you were seeing were the primer edge. When you seal it that edge is softened or blended out so it’s undetectable even id you don’t have full coverage. Hard to explain.
@logansmith7851 thanks. I know exactly what you mean. I did toy with the idea of sealing it but chanced it lol
We all get days where everything we touch turns to shit. Unfortunately In this trade, anything that can go wrong generally does from time to time. I myself are quite like you with regards to shitty management, there's no need for it and you are much better off in a place that you feel valued. Reds have always been a pain with coverage, but you caught it which shows an experienced painter compared with one that hasn't quite gained the experience yet. Good job.
Thanks Ed, that really means a lot 🙏 I always feel its better to spend a little extra time to double check so the job goes out 1st try.
You definately got out off a sticky situtaion there Paul but your experience got you through. I've had many times when things have gone tits uo but you have no choice you have too sort it. Also i can't understand why we in the uk can't get hold off coloured sealer all i can get my hands on is grey/black mipa ( i only use solvent base ). Unfortunately i work alone in a small unit so can't pass my skills on would love too employ a young lad but health and safety prevent me from doing this.
Thanks Jimmy, sometimes you just have to go for it. I figured I'd have to to re work it anyway, so it was worth a try.
Sikkens do tinted sealer/primers. But in a small shop situation, you could try Auto Air AutoBorne sealers (search for the on RUclips) my friend Simon Murray at smdesigns.co.uk sells them and they can be bought in small quantities. They are water base sealers but work with solvent. I've used them in the past.
It's ashame about not being able to take on an apprentice to pass your skills on to.
Hi brother nice work I am a car danter from Pakistan
Oh cool.
Well saved mate
Thanks 👍 i hate painting cars twice especially if it's my fault 😆
Really nice job👌 Like your style to share your skills and tips. I just start to use Spies Hecker Hi-Tec 480 and i try to learn that system.
Thanks, Spies hi tec is essentially standox standoblue. So a lot of my videos could be useful whilst you learn the system (shameless plug 🙈) also if you search for hi tec in RUclips they have their own videos on application
Great work, Sir! I have a question for you.. Can both a Volkswagen LA7W Standox solvent base (+60% of acrylic thinner) and the next 2K anti-scratch clear coat (mixing ratio: 2:1+10% of acrylic thinner) be sprayed with a H-2000 mini gun having a 0.5 mm tip? Or is it required a bigger tip? I have to do only a little spot repair. Thanks a lot!
Sorry for the delay, you've probably painted it by now? If so how did you get on?
Yes you can use smaller tip sizes, you might need a little extra thinners to help it flow though.
Getting a lot out of your videos Paul 👍🏻 can I ask which Stanford aerosol that is you’re using?? Is that you sorting rub throughs with it prior to basecoat application? Stupid question, can you just base over the aerosol primer without giving g it a key? Thanks, Stuart
Hey Stuart, sorry for the delay.
Thanks for the kind words. I appreciate it.
it's Standox u3010 they do them in different grey shades. And yes as soon as the aerosol primer is dry you can paint straight over it, it drys super smooth.
Thanks
If I had new panels, I would’ve for faster color coverage making sure that it was correct color match. No panels I would’ve mixed up the grey shade in base coat and achive the same result as using sealer (wow).
I agree, the primer was the recommended value shade (except the aerosol on the drivers door) so I expected it to cover better.
@@paulphillipspaintwork on repairs with no new panels, then the preferred g shade of primer works, if you have that system. Majority of the car we work on use new parts of some sort, so sealer is cheaper to use, (as in no need to buy the primer system to make grey shades, and my body guys prime their cars, don’t see them wanting to make my job eaiser🥴🤣) unless I get one that dosent have new parts, then I use g shade base.
The Americans use wet on wet, sealer because they’re way ahead of us brits.
Maybe, but looking back on it, the small patches that were visible could have been covered on the final coat of the high build primer. It wouldn't have made any difference to the amount of prep on the job and saved me a small headache 🙃
@@paulphillipspaintwork I wet on wet literally everything. Wow, is much cheaper than basecoat and it dries faster. Also, it helps massively with the cross link process. We all do it differently, I own my own garage, so it’s important to me the jobs last. 👍
@timdeakin2524 Great point 👍it probably is the way forward.
Can I ask for some advise Paul? I’ve just gone to spray some medium solids base coat in my garage but it’s spraying out lumpy/thick. Supplied and mixed from a local shop. Is it a simple case of adding more thinner or is it something else I should be looking at?
Yea could be I'd try that 1st .ate
#mate
@@paulphillipspaintwork thanks I’ll give it a go 👍🏻