The ONE Trick they Don’t Teach at Carpenter University!!!
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- This trick is an ace up your sleeve for baseboards and crown mouldings that get cut too short! I wish I knew it earlier in my career. I’m happy to share it with you and hope it proves helpful! If your painting your baseboards this is the easiest way to professional results: • How To Paint Baseboard...
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What’s w the crazy loud soundtrack? We just need woodworking advice
How do I handle floor molding transition from a tile to carpet surface? The tile is about 1/4 higher. Do I just line up the top of the molding and hope the carpet guys tuck the carpet under?
My wife bought me a laser guided power miter saw when we bought our first flipper/fixer-upper. It allowed me to miscut things with a lot greater accuracy.
😂🎉
Don't you love that! :D
What did you get her? Some cookware?
@@jomama3804 I got her a self-propelled lawn mower, like any respectable husband would do.
Haha! Then drink coffee - do stupid things faster with more energy!
I didn't have a belt sander, I just got in my car, and with my door open a bit, held the piece to the ground while I drove to the dispensary. Worked pretty good. Theres a rough edge, but you can't see it if you look from a certain angle.
Innovation can’t be stopped…😂
Best advice I've seen!
So what's the weather like in Florida? Lol
I used to sharpen knifes with a rock and a piece of glass.
I'd move
Buy three times more than I need, cut loads then rage quit and put something in front of it. That's the way I roll.
Hahaha yeahh
Lmfao
I like your style. +1 RUclips how to fix your F*ckups, proceed to big box store and buy new tool that has 0 to do with original problem. Come home and stare at unfinished bathroom with discontent for $$ you just spent on stupid stuff you didn’t need.
Yup. Hit it with a bigger hammer is how I roll LOL,
Good tip.
Also, I’ve found this is caused by the taper leaving extra mud at the bottom of the corner bead. Sometimes you can simply scrape the corner in either side with a flat bar and it’ll gain back that 1/16”, hopefully saving you a trip to the belt sander.
Excellent point
This is the way. We usually just smash the corners with a hammer to get rid of the mud buildup. Which is on 75% of the corners in a house.
Or measure to the sheetrock corner and cut the miter at 46 degrees. That extends the Long point out to compensate for the out of square corner. Also put a return on that short piece on the left and you will a better looking end as you're coming up the stairs. Caulk the top of Base , fill the nail holes and paint it. All done. Finish Carpenter
Please explain what a return is.
@@soniaskolnick3868 You cut a 45% angle on the end that goes into the stair string, and another small 45% returned into the wall. 2 part superglue works well for sticking the little piece on.
I always cut at 46 👍
That's what I do. Lol. Tried and true
I always cut at a 46 as well. I also cut both pieces about 1/32 long and put both piece in, nail the corner last so I can match it up perfect. Caulk the top, spackle the seams and nail holes, paint and it looks perfect
Best part: You’re a carpentry guru! Then it doesn’t fit! With the music and sound effects. I’m still rolling! 😂 I thought dude was totally serious! He got me good!😎
Thanks a lot Donald! Some fun was had making this video!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter
L🤫L Worthy of a Sub! 🤭
Hoping you were joking
@SEAL CYCLE lot quicker to cut a new piece
I did my best and caulked the rest.
Cut angles first, then adjust the length of the pieces with straight cuts at the other end. Always cut a shade too long. You can always cut again.
Also, test fit before securing permanently.
@@kevinbedard27 thats what I did, it takes more cuts but it fits nice
Caulk and paint, makes a carpenter what he ain't.
The painters will take care of that....
Caulk n paint, makes you the carpenter you ain't !!
Just mark up the back of the skirting at the wall corner that’s your length and your 45 cut point, easy! Works every time.
Hmmm, now that I know this, leaving the tiny gap makes me lazy, instead of just unskilled.
for that little bit just pull the other off the wall a 1/16" and caulk it... done!
Cowboy 🤠
I.also do this occasionally. I always caulk trim to wall...cleaner edge for paint.
Make you right. Fart arsing about not needed..but if your doing top notch work like hardwood panelling your gonna get your bevel out to get those little mitres spot on.
@@douglas60040 so true, even post paint, no little grooves for dirt to collect. Also keeps bugs out and + insulation.
2:47 Nicely done, problem might be that such work in private homes is done only once. So people do not buy all the equipment and tools that usually only a professional cabinetmaker's workshop has?
For anyone afraid of their ability to rectify the problem with sanders etc, sawdust and carpenters white glue mixed together fills up the gap and can be sanded off to perfection later
Yes, did same with pressure treated lumber
I use drywall compound sand, for painted boards obviously
So...realistically, you should never nail in the trim at corners until you test fit the pieces since it appears you might have cut the shorter piece on the left too short and positioned it wrong. I always pinch the corner and do a test and then nail with all pieces in place.
I always take my measurements on the wall at the top of the base. It helps minimize gaps. If an outside miter is closed at the top but open at the bottom I scrape any mud at the corner, if that doesn't work I plane the backside of base until miter closes. We always use construction adhesive so if I plane too much off it's no prob cuz the adhesive will act like a shim when it dries.
Woosh
Belt sander is too much effort. I would just try for a closer fit at first, then carefully trim some with a blade. It will be fine. Btw I love the hopeless tragic face he makes when it doesn't fit. People who never work with tools just don't know how hard it is to accomplish things.
But your profiles did not match up, top bead is opposite of other piece, looks like two separate mouldings
Ghost Five bad camera angle, with two types of light
Or just do it correctly I've been doing trim carpentry for years and it baffles me on how people can do this and get away with it
My thoughts exactly
Thanks for the useful tip. Too bad I didn't learn it 20 years ago. The music could use dialing back a bit or eliminating. Near the end I could hardly hear you over the music. I don't think the readers will miss any of it.
Thanks for checking out the video, good points on the music, the sound mixing was terrible. I’ve learned a few things since then!
This dude sounds just like Joel from Mystery Science Theater 3,000. Maybe they are brothers or come from the same town.
As someone who’s done carpentry for 16 years, (300+ pieces of baseboard just yesterday!) I can tell you that this “fix” takes 8 times longer than simply replacing the short piece. Even faster: remove the short piece and simply slide it 1/16” over and re-nail it. In this case the left side will now have a small gap but it will get caulked. Another tip: unless the baseboard is abnormally tall, or you have a fisher-price miter saw, you can usually stand it upright on the miter saw for cutting those angles; you don’t have to put the saw on a compound angle.
I'm not even a professional but yeah, I think you're right. You gonna tell me you don't have a piece of cutoff scrap in that length? Yeah, right. Just replace it, so much faster, or yes, move it over and caulk the straight gap.
Either way you’re walking back to the saw. So realistically maybe 1.2 times as long🙃. I like cutting on flat, especially with the Kapex. I made a video showing a handy tip that will work for crown, furniture kick, etc. You’d be wrong assuming I’d cut that piece short under regular circumstances. 🍻
@@TheFunnyCarpenter All I can say is that for me, in the time that it takes to prepare the belt sander I could’ve made the one to three cuts needed to make the piece. But if I were cutting with compound angles I’d consider using a belt sander IF it were already plugged in and ready.
I 100% agree with you. Just finished doing 1000 sq foot of trim. I just bring the saw in the house and make the cut. Lets be honest if worse I cut at 46 degrees and use DAP. This is over dramatic.
The context you said was it’s your last piece and you don’t want to go to the store. At this point your video is actually a great way to think of an alternative.
tack the two pieces together before nailing to wall.
Thats pretty clever
If I wanted drama I would watch my wife’s daytime soaps...🙄
Soaps still run
This is where that sliding bevel mitre angle finder located on the back of the Kapex comes into play. Measure twice, cut once.
If I was cooking, I could just eat it and try again
Doesnt stop you cutting something short though does it.
KAPEX?
@@danrook5757 10X comment!
Measure 8 times, cut twice, patch with putty, then hope the paint covers it...
When I watched this video I was sure this guy was in my bathroom snooping around the woodwork. Your crack fitting was good, I use latex calking, and lots of it, if that doesn’t cover the cracks, all I do is put a small waste basket or vase of flowers in front of the corner, works every time. But I will try your method next time. E.J.
Know what yyyy;5
Bob Villa would be proud
Ha, Caulk n paint makes things what they ain't.
But, the floor is uneven to the baseboard. Now, we take all the flooring up, and level it off to the baseboard. Now, the whole floor is uneven, tune in next week when we even out the whole house to the baseboards
Floors uneven so scribe the base, easy.
If somebody notices the tiny floor gap.....they need to find a new hobby.
Must have screwed something up seeing you cut the two pieces out of the same board at the beginning of the video but the profiles don’t match on the last shot.
Ya my bad, it was a bad camera angle.
I just let my kids run into the corners with some trucks and toys and it smooths it right out. :)
I’ve only been doing carpentry for 30 years but I have to say I’ve never seen anyone measure to the long point on a corner. Interesting.
Too funny
Thanks for showing us how to remedy these base board corner joints, PLEASE drop the sound track, it just clutters up this useful information.
Hold skirt to Wall on both sides, small pencil line on floor, strike through the points, (wall corner to pencil line crossing point) Bevel it and take to the mitre saw, measure from pencil to end, mitre cut, glue, then pin. But a very nice fix for a easy mistake we all have made.
The dark arts of carpentry 🤣
Well that's one way to do it . Or if you were really smart you 'd carefully pry the piece you just nailed of and put a packer behind it .It would beat all that sanding .But what would I know I am just a dumb engineer
When I worked in the trade we just used the board stretcher...worked all the time. The real trick is not allowing this to happen and THATS where the art of carpentry truly is, and there is a few tricks to do that.
Here is some hints...items in your toolbelt; pencil, knife, 2 small flathead screwdrivers, finishing hammer, small sandpaper block, a small piece of trim cut at a perfect 45(both ends or have 2 with each having different end cut at 45), glue bottle and for last resort...measuring tape(seldom used)...HAVE CHOP SAW IN THE SAME ROOM AS YOU ARE WORKING IN OR VERY NEAR BY. When cutting, think in terms of heel and toe and in hair thicknesses. In the trade we often worked in pairs, one doing the sizing(measuring) and the pinning and the other the cutting. OH...and do the corners 1st and trim to size on the straight ends if possible. Most professionals will bead the top of the trim with silicone, white or clear, if wall is finished with paint or wallpaper.
Some good tips, thanks for the post.
Who doesnt stand up their base when cutting it ? Way more accurate and quicker than adjusting the bevel
Balls
Block of wood at the stair end and whack it with a hammer until it slides over that 1/16". You will likely want some mud and wall paint to fix the dents in the wall when you miss the block of wood you are trying to hit.
three wrongs don’t make a right.
wrong #1. replace the short piece, don’t be lazy.
wrong #2. there’s a gap under the short piece.
wrong # 3. the feathered base doesn’t look right from the top.
but i guess it’s good enough for you since you have to look at it.
hopefully it’s not for a customer, because they deserve better.
Replacing the piece is always option #1, but if you install things long enough you will have this happen on your last piece, and this trick will work awesome. Once you caulk the top of the baseboard to the wall, the difference of thickness is extremely difficult to pick up. Cheers and thanks for checking out the channel.
It must be nice to live in your perfect world
First thing I do is scrap all the extra mud off the corner where the drywallers leave it built up making the corner out of whack.
bassfan41 the Richards little red bar is perfect for that task
I remember the first time I used a belt sander. I put the piece of wood on a work surface (not thinking about clamping it) . Put the belt to the board, and zing!! The board shot off the work table and into the wall, creating a nice hole in the drywall. Even more funny was my wife and I both watched the board as it flew into the wall . . just like you would see in a comedy show. We still laugh about this over 30 years later. One of the fun memories we have of building our house. That was a great tip.
lol great story thanks for sharing
made me laugh
Oh to live in a house where things fit and switches worked. This made me laugh, some how i got here from custom truck interior. Just fyi, dont build a dash from expanding foam.
No fluff no bs love these videos with the occasional joke from the funny guy
Thanks buddy
No fluff is the key word(s).. Too many videos are filled with 90% rambling about their skills or what others do wrong. This guy is a breath of fresh air
Nice tip. If i might make one suggestion, mix the dramatic music lower than your voice. It makes it hard to hear you. Thankfully youtubes auto captions came to the rescue :)
I learned a valuable lesson on this one🙃
I just caulk the gap....and then try to ignore it whenever i walk by...problem solved
Haha
Yes, I have seen your work.
There are many of you.
Your thinking and actions have invaded the building industry.
And the even more painful reality is 99% of the clients in the world don't know any better either.
And you are really expensive.
In that photo you showed was that body of water on the other side of the mountain from the valley with the houses where the neighborhood was that lake body of water water at a higher elevation than the homes?
So...first...that was the funniest “Funny Carpenter “ I’ve seen since subscribing, last week,
Hats off to the writing staff...”Of course it will fit, you’re a carpentry guru”.
Secondly...why didn’t you do the old way...cut off the back end of the piece in very, very, very short passes...returning back to the work area say...three times...then...realizing that third and final cut was too much so that now the back piece doesn’t touch and you simply moved the gap from the miter end to the more obvious back end. Yeah that’s what I do. 😁
Thirdly...why not blame the equipment...if you show your wife these kind of issues and explain that a brand new miter saw would’ve solved this issue...now you’re approaching “ husband guru” status...
Thanks for the chuckle this morning.
Update:
I just watched the vid posted about your Kapex miter saw purchase. ($1500 worth of mistakes might call for some serious self reflection) That being the case my assumption is that you used option three from my message earlier. Sorry...on both fronts.
Thanks Ted! Lol I've definitely used the blame the equipment tactic many times:)
My "fix" is putting white caulk into the gap. Now you know why I don't make my living as a carpenter! But....it works.
Wouldn’t it have been easier to just cut 1/16” off the other end???
No, because then both pieces would be too short. You want to maintain the overall length of the piece, but alter the thickness at the last 12 inches or so (in this example) so that you have some play to match the outside corner mitre up.
Nice video - but why the extremely loud music to almost cover what you are telling??!
Sorry about that, bad editing
My late Dad was a joiner, learnt his trade in the shipyards on the Tyne in the 30's cut mitres, mortice and tenons by hand as cabinet making was part of his apprenticeship. No power tools in those days just real craftsmen.
That’s awesome! I like checking out houses from that era, the carpenters didn’t specialize back then so they would built everything on-site with like you said their hand tools.
I'm 67. Never had power tools till turned 35 and by then just DIYing (in heavy duty way for self, friends, and family. Bosch green range was mostly excellent
cracked me up!🤣. happened to me the other day.. of cos they'll fit perfectly...silence.😅
Yup been there and then casually look around for the wife 😂
... NEVER measure these cuts... always mark the back of the pieces held against the wall for the short point measurement, make your angle adjustment as per the video, and JUST take the line when you cut. You need a relatively fine saw blade to cut from the back and avoid tearout, but measuring the long point on base trim is a recipe for misery.
That being said, the spackle buildup on corners is a problem, and sometimes you do need to grind things down before the mark if it is extreme and caulk is not an option.
Measuring the front of the miters with a scrap piece is rock solid in my experience. I just cut the piece short for the purpose of the video. In reality that method of measuring can go for houses at a time without error. Any rate what ever works for you😁
@@TheFunnyCarpenter lol... I knew you missed on purpose... nevertheless, I avoid the tape when a scribe will do. Can't say I ever went one house without an error, never mind multiple houses, so hats off to you.
Paul Shepherd 😂I’ve trimmed out a few apartment buildings. When you have to cut 8 or so units from one unit, you end up getting pretty dang precise, otherwise you’ll spend most of the day walking around😬
@@TheFunnyCarpenter professionals don't use measuring tape for trim as a rule. Once in a blue maybe but nope...use the wall to mark the trim. We rarely screwed up as a result.
Well, you fixed the end-matching problem, but now the top edge reveal is tapered. (This will be noticed if you stand close to the wall and look down.)
Once it is caulked to the wall it will never be noticed.
Joint compound. Works beautifully. Overfill gaps (along top and bottom too). Let it stick out a little for shrinage. When dry, damp sponge to flush in seconds.
Wow..... just wow
I’m a Union Millman by trade. We specialize in showcase and interior woodwork.
No journeyman worth his salt would have nailed either piece in place without first dry fitting. This is such a rookie mistake, and a backyard mechanics way of fixing it.
Back in 1973 when i was an apprentice, the old timers back then said I would someday see this kind of hog doctor work.
Boy they knew their chit, and I am grateful to have been taught the art by them.
If by hog doctoring you mean turning a mistake into a perfect fit, then thanks:). I appreciate you taking the time to comment, 🍻!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter
Hahahahaha.........yes you showed a resolve, but a good journeyman would have shown the proper way too.
I know by watching your videos that you know better than to make such a mistake.
Show the audience the right way as well.
All wood crafting is becoming a lost art these days.
BTW I get a charge out of your tool reviews too.....especially the Milwaukee vs Dewalt organizer video. Awesome comparison and shows your knack to inform snd teach.
Mike Morgan thanks Mike. It’s best practice not to make the videos drag on forever and cover every possibility. This trick comes in supper handy for me on prefinished cabinet crown moulding. Say the piece is 1/64 short. Then you can literally take a handy sanding block and shave off the adjoining piece and get a perfect fit when there ain’t no caulking or filler that’s going to save you.
Dude that intro was spot on!!!! I was getting frustrated jusr remembering. "I'm a woodworker with lots of expensive tools, of course it will fit!" Lmfao!!!!!! 👍🏼🤣
Thanks Andres I had fun making that video
Best thing about that video was when it ended!!!
Nice fit, but the music and outdoor scenes were unnecessary. Don't underestimate the intelligence of your viewers.
Don’t overestimate my intelligence😂 sometimes it’s fun to make a silly video.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Ha! You are a Funny Carpenter.:)
I don’t watch your videos for the tips-I watch for the hilarious acting😂. Just kidding. I watch for the tips as well👍
Lol, would you believe I spent 7 years at acting school?.................(not true)
Sorry, way too much work. It's paint grade. Use a knife to cut the bulk of the protrusion, following the profile, from the short side. Fine tune to perfection with sand paper. Fill like a nail hole (if you even need to). Paint.
Great video - thanks. Wish I knew this when remodeling My Old House where there is no such thing as a straight wall or angle.
Can you turn the music up...I can still hear you jabbering on about something?
😢ya it was a bad mix🙃check out future vids, the Talking music mix has been sorted. Thanks for checking out the vid.
Great tip . Too bad I could've used this tip a year ago . But I'll be ready for the up and coming Honey Do...... because another honey do will happen
I'm thinking your wife and my wife are related!?!?! LOL
Sorry but how can you be a carpenter guru, with carpenter university degree and knowledge of carpenter dark arts if you don't even have a carpenter's pencil in your ear?
Can you explain that?
Great video, man!
I would lay a nice TIG bead over that and grind it smooth with a flapper wheel. But I mostly work with metal so I could be wrong.
Or…. You just tap the crap out of the drywall near the floor with your hammer to crush it to the right thickness and then tack the base board on. Quick and simple
I’ve prayed to God about this exact problem
Great videos and love and respect your humor keep it up! But I'd lose my $h!t if one of my guys put that trim piece up. I'd run his you know what down to the lumber yard...after making those for pieces kindling.
Nah in real life the piece is likely only 1/16”- 1/32” short and the concept of this trick is solid AF. Unless you’re the type of guy that watches over his guys every move you’d never know.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter .. No what I saw was the miter joints didn't even line up, at least that's the way it looked in the video.
D Jaquith lol well that makes sense:). Yes that is very annoying, it’s some type of camera angle allusion. I didn’t even notice it until people have pointed it out… 100’s of time:( in real life it’s spot on.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter .. Apologies, I didn't notice that anyone was commenting about it. My main point was I like your attitude, humor and techniques. What RUclips really needs is another Project Farm Channel. Good luck!
D Jaquith thanks a lot-Project farm is a great channel!
A little “caulk” goes a long way!
Hahahaha
do not let putty be your buddy
….just informed hubs that we need a belt sander since we only have an orbital one. He usually doesn’t balk at any reason to get a new tool and neither do I. :-)
Love this guy, He literally acts like I do at work
So you artificially inseminate horses for a living?
Hows about a sharp hand planer? The art of using hand tools is going to be lost eventually with these modern carpenters and their power tools for everything.
Interesting solution. A couple of other suggestions though.
Measurements are always subject to error. Better to hold the piece on the wall, then hold another piece of molding on the other wall (on top) and with a very sharp pencil draw a line on top of the lower molding to mark the inside point of the miter.
On the "short piece", you just cut the end by the stairs square. It ideally should have a return cut on the end and a return piece glued in, or depending on how you want it to look,
If you don't have an angle gauge to show the exact angle of the corner, a bevel gauge and a plastic compass (from high school) can be used to get the exact angle needed.
Bang on about returning the butt end. All the other butt ends in my house are done the same way, so I didn't want to introduce a new look. Marking the piece they way you suggest is a good suggestion for a piece or two, but it's no way to trim out a house or an apartment building. I just cut the piece short for the purpose of the video and to share a cool trick. Lol in reality I would be measuring and cutting to the 64th all day(unhumble brag). Thanks for checking out the vid!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter You'd be surprised how fast it goes. Just finished helping a friend of mine finish his basement, and the only time we measured was when the piece was an "inside corner to inside corner", and even then the measurement didn't have to be exact as one end is coped, and the other end left square for the next piece to cope into, so leaving it 3/16 short was fine. Granted, we had the chop saw in the room where we were doing all the cuts (or in the next area) so no great time loss going back and forth.
Cut 46 degrees on next piece to be installed, also base should t ie directly into skirtboard, if ya know what your doing. 🤔 Usually 20 degree cuts give or take a couple degrees. If you'd like use 2 pieces of dummy wood and mock up your cuts ,before final install
I measure and cut from the inner joint then you do not cut short also invest in a laser to shade line upgrade from eBay so you can make perfect cuts from a shadow line.. perfect mitres.
Great video! Block planes, even the tiny guys, work pretty good for board stretching too. It may require a bit of elbow grease depending on harder material but softer stuff like mbf, hemlock, n pine should b easy.
This is a last result and a belt sander, other than a wide belt machine,is a dinosaur. I have been a carpenter and cabinet-maker for 30 years... Haven't used my porter cable belt sander in over a decade. Perhaps.... recutting the short piece might be an option?
I recut the piece a few times it was still too short:).
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Hey come on man, it's on only short on one end, no need to get dramatic about it.
I would have just filled the gap with caulk and smoothed it out with my finger....but then I look at dead people for a living. That, and I cannot cut a straight line.
😂😂
Brilliant thanks. Doing some skirtings tomorrow, hoping I don’t need this but .....🙏🤔👌
A lot of work instead of just tearing off the short piece and cutting a new one. Kind of an advanced way of thinking for a person who doesn't know how the cut outside liters well. Always better to cut long. Never short. Always buy an extra piece of molding. This way you aren't trying to belt sand base molding. Duh.
Maybe one day you’ve installed a 15’ piece in a basement, or a you’re down to your last piece of furniture kick and they’re a little too short....if that happens to you- lay back in your shack and play this track:)
Haha 😄. You got me! I still use a pencil with an eraser cuz I am not perfect. Props for putting it out there. There are a lot of haters. Thanks for the tip. I would rather see tight miters than gaps. 😜
miters?
I would have just cut the 90degree end, shorter by the amount my part was too long.
I laughed. I don't know why. It's not funny. It's a lot like putting sugar in your lemonade only to find out after the first sip that it wasn't sugar.
I hate getting cocaine in my lemonade
You can spot that from 10 feet..........Instead, fill the gap with Quick grab PL and use a small, scrap, straightedge to conform it as best you can to remove all excess.. When it dries, carve off what little is above plane and cover the joint with a coat of good filler. Maybe 2. Sand and it's perfect. No compromise at all.
Not a bad idea.
Please turn down the music. For hard of hearing folks, it makes it hard to hear you.
Yes, it was a terrible mix on this video. Sorry about that
Ah....I get it now... I thought you were trying to
match two pieces of the same profile.
"45 & 3/4 INCH degrees"? I was done at that point. LOL!
Plus if it's 45 3/4 degrees, the angle is NOT acute, it's obtuse! No wonder his miters don't like up.
...but it really is an acute outside corner..you are thinking backwards like you would be putting baseboard on the inside part of it.
45 and 3/4inch degrees.Lo fing L . The dark side of carpentry. Its real.
Needs “(This is a Dramatization)”
Sorry man, i know you think your helping, but this is bad advice video. A 16th is acceptable for caulk or filler at the butt end of the board. Always glue and pin nail outside corners before you nail them to the wall. If you have to caulk, fill it and follow contour with a wet, flexible putty knife.
Chris Lane nah
was thinkin "proper youtuber this guy eh... complete with christmas cracker jokes and ott editing", then i saw the name of the channel..........
I’m taking this as a compliment:)
That worked surprisingly well! I thought for sure you were going to pull out a protractor as they work surprisingly well as well ;)
Beautiful corner grafting techniques.
The best way to avoid this is to cut and glue/pin a mitred corner with pieces exactly 50mm long (wastes 100mm of board, but worth it in the long run) then fit it over the corner and measure back. Add 50mm onto each measurement and bingo! If you're working with "right" angles that are too acute, a couple of extra dummies made to fit these works. You can usually find offcuts which fit the bill. It's not always the best way but it works for me.
There you go again...being a wood weezard.....unlisennced too!?
Thank you! For novice people like me, who would keep cutting ends at different angles in an attempt to match , this if very handy. I don't mind using a "bit" of wood filler, silicone, etc., but learning tricks of trade to make the best fit possible, even if it takes a little more time is a great life lesson. This is a very good method of taking "just a bit at at time" to make it a very good fit.
My solution to the problem is a bit barbaric, but when I come across this, I just get my pocket knife out and hack off pieces of the back edge, basically whittling it down until it fits.
Definitely what i do quite often as well
Handheld Power planar is a great tool to use as well. Start with a deep cut at the mitre and reduce to zero as you move along the base. Less dust too!
It's math and you didn't know the simple math. in all of my 35 years of carpentry, i would have never sanded the back edge or side? what are you teaching people?
A handy trick. Works for crown moulding, furniture kick etc. I don’t get to use it very often so it was fun to dust it off for the video. Thanks for checking it out.
This..... or go to "Caulking saved north america" solution.😀
Um no. That's when you cut the tip on the caulk gun really deep and slather that caulk thickly in there! And this is why I don't have my own YT channel. Thank you ladies and gentlemen!
🤣
Now I just feel stupid. 😂😂😂😂
I barely passed Caulk and Paint 101🤷♂️
Ahh those were the good ole days!
The reveal on top would not look right
You would never notice it after it’s caulked.
I just shoot the 45s together on the ground to make perfect angel then slide baseboard in. Go little long bc the cap will cover any gap between baseboard and wall
Excellent tip, thanks for checking out the video.