I made mine using a spring and also installed it in this location. However, when the pressure relief activated, all the material that is still inside the cyclone gets sucked up with the air flow. Redesign: I made a box that sits atop the cyclone that has the pressure relief valve on the top and vacuum hose on one of the sides. Perfecto! Now when the vacuum becomes plugged (downstream), the relief valve opens and the material in the cyclone falls into the dust bin. After I unplug the hose, the relief valve resets itself and I'm back in business. I used a Hoffmann SS hole plug (with its washer) connected to a coupling (for added weight) connected to a piece of threaded rod then a spring and nut ( for adjusting the regulator). The added weight really helped with the strength of spring I used.
having the valve at that location will send air back up the cyclone, bypassing the normal centrical spin causing any debris in the cyclone exit into the vacuum and not separate.. if you put the valve on the hose just before the cyclone, air coming in at the valve location will go through the normal cyclone separation.
I had made a relief valve with a spring only. I noticed that adjusting the spring tension is tricky. Either it is too stiff and the bucket collapses or with a loose spring the valve tends to leak and air flow is reduced. The magnet seems to be the solution. I'll try some combination with magnet to keep the valve shut and a spring mechanism to reset the valve when no vacuum is applied.
Hi Peter, do you sell a pressure release valve kit? If so, I'd be interested in getting one as my cyclone cylinder has just imploded. All the best, Charlie 👍🏻
Hi Charlie, No, I do not sell anything at all. However, many years ago I made a video showing how easy it is to make one: ruclips.net/video/wNBxce-HeCw/видео.html Good luck. Peter
There is a *much* better method if you think outside the box a bit that is professional and self resetting. Get a McAlpine VP2 air admittance valve, cost about £5. These are designed to use gravity to hold the valve down which is not quite enough as they are only for flushing toilets. However the top screws off and you can fit a compression spring to decrease the pressure at which they operate. I used one I had kicking about, but they can be had very cheaply on eBay if you don't have something to hand. No dicking about with magnets and the VP2 is threaded with a nut so all you need to do is cut a hole in the lid. Looking about I cannot believe nobody has thought of this before as I can see loads of crazy DIY pressure release valve ideas on RUclips.
Could do with a bit more info than fit a compression spring for someone who's not a plumber or used to seeking out this stuff please? Does the top stay off? Where to fit spring etc. Maybe do a video on it lol. :) Many thanks.
@@Mr_GadgeI imagine he meant to simply place a spring between the lid and the part that rises up during negative pressure. The hole in the lid would probably be to accommodate a steel rod to keep the spring in place. However, he mentions using a spring for decreasing the pressure, and what I'm describing increases the operating pressure.
The only problem with that design is that you need to stop and take off the lid to reset it. Have a look on Charlie DIYte's channel where he has just put out a new video using a spring-loaded, off-the-shelf valve, available on line, which is self re-setting as soon as the pressures re-equalise. That's the route I'm going to follow!
Hi Brian, Ages after making this video I introduced a new spring loaded design of my own using the same tin lid. However, now that I have the metal 4" cyclone from Axminster I do not need to worry about pressure relief valves. Cheers. Peter
This is excellent Peter. Thank you. I read that you changed to a an all spring system. Did you make a video of that? I have a mini cyclone on my shop vac. Would the same system work for that? I imagine the shop vacuum pressure is higher. How do I adjust the spring force to get the right balance?
I do not have a video of the latest pressure relief valve but it is the same as the other one with the addition of an extra spring underneath. Having a pair of springs ensures that the tin lid returns to the closed position after activation. The pressure can be adjusted by adding a third spring or changing the distance across which the springs are stretched. If you have an Oneida cyclone there is no need to have a safety valve as their cyclones are strong enough to resist crushing. Peter
I have a generic Chinese cyclone and it is true that the cyclone is strong. However I had to modify the collection bucket to prevent that from collapsing. I have also had to add bleed holes in the cyclone to make sure there is always air entering the unit even with the hose is blocked. Like on a domestic vacuum cleaner. This has solved my problem for now but I might create a pressure release in the future.
Hello Peter =) First off, thank you for sharing your insights on collapsing containers. I had been thinking about how to relieve the pressure inside, I just didn't know where to start. Until I found your video =D I wanted to ask, which might either be an elementary or stupid question... but I"ll ask anyway. What's the difference of having a pressure relief valve than leaving the hole open... or perhaps cover the hole with a foam (like the one used in the black Oneida bin), thereby preventing the pressure build-up at the start? Again, thank you and God bless! - Norman (Manila, Philippines) =)
Hi Norman, The pressure relief valve is only there in case the inlet hose gets blocked and all the vacuum is applied inside the cyclone. Having a foam covered hole will reduce the efficiency of the system. The pressure relief valve only operates in the emergency situation when a hose is blocked. Peter
New Brit Workshop Thank you for your response Peter :) I may just have to consider the frustrating conclusion that it’s the material my container is made of that’s causing it to collapse from the suction pressure. I have seen others make and use plywood for their container’s lid, but I’m not sure if that would not make the container implode. I may just have to get a more sturdier container :) Cheers!
Nice project and thanks for sharing. I love watching people think out of the box. As I was following along I came to a question? (Apologies if someone already asked.) Why put a valve in it at all? The vacuum supplies a constant air draw rate. We know that without an additional air inlet, the system is too restrictive and collapses the bucket. Why not just leave an open hole? In my mind, the hole is all that is required. Am I missing something? Again thanks for sharing.
Are you using a shop vac with that cyclone? If so, the cyclone is too large. It's hard to believe that a dust collector blower, which has 1/10th the vacuum as a shop vac, could collapse that cyclone. And if you did require a relief valve, it should be in the inlet, not the bin. A leak in the bin sends dust to your final filter.
Hi Bill, I am using a Numatic NVD 750 which has a very small tank for the debris. It has enough sucking power to easily crush that original cyclone. However, I now have a metal cyclone from Axminster which does not need any relief valve and it is much cheaper (here in the UK) than the Oneida equivalent. Peter
Good call on placing the valve at the cyclone inlet Bill. I was planning to place it next to the cyclone in the lid, unaware this would suck debris up into the shop vac.
I have tried to find it but failed. The design is so simple. I used the same tin lid as the valve and put 3 small holes, at 120 degree spacing, on the lip. I then found 3 fairly weak spring and fixed these to the tin lid and then to the underside of the drop box lid so that the tin lid covered the hole. I carefully experimented to check that it worked. Peter
I made mine using a spring and also installed it in this location. However, when the pressure relief activated, all the material that is still inside the cyclone gets sucked up with the air flow. Redesign: I made a box that sits atop the cyclone that has the pressure relief valve on the top and vacuum hose on one of the sides. Perfecto! Now when the vacuum becomes plugged (downstream), the relief valve opens and the material in the cyclone falls into the dust bin. After I unplug the hose, the relief valve resets itself and I'm back in business. I used a Hoffmann SS hole plug (with its washer) connected to a coupling (for added weight) connected to a piece of threaded rod then a spring and nut ( for adjusting the regulator). The added weight really helped with the strength of spring I used.
Hi Robert, That sounds like a brilliant solution. Many thanks. Peter
Any chance of a video Robert?
Robert, could you share some pictures?
This is genius!!! So happy I found this video! Thank you so much!
Glad it was helpful! Peter
having the valve at that location will send air back up the cyclone, bypassing the normal centrical spin causing any debris in the cyclone exit into the vacuum and not separate.. if you put the valve on the hose just before the cyclone, air coming in at the valve location will go through the normal cyclone separation.
Many thanks.
I had made a relief valve with a spring only. I noticed that adjusting the spring tension is tricky. Either it is too stiff and the bucket collapses or with a loose spring the valve tends to leak and air flow is reduced. The magnet seems to be the solution. I'll try some combination with magnet to keep the valve shut and a spring mechanism to reset the valve when no vacuum is applied.
Hi Hans, That should work. Good luck. Peter
Great fix ,I will be giving it a go,thanks for the info.
Very simple and perfect
Thanks a lot 😊
Hi Peter, do you sell a pressure release valve kit? If so, I'd be interested in getting one as my cyclone cylinder has just imploded. All the best, Charlie 👍🏻
Hi Charlie, No, I do not sell anything at all. However, many years ago I made a video showing how easy it is to make one:
ruclips.net/video/wNBxce-HeCw/видео.html
Good luck. Peter
There is a *much* better method if you think outside the box a bit that is professional and self resetting. Get a McAlpine VP2 air admittance valve, cost about £5. These are designed to use gravity to hold the valve down which is not quite enough as they are only for flushing toilets. However the top screws off and you can fit a compression spring to decrease the pressure at which they operate. I used one I had kicking about, but they can be had very cheaply on eBay if you don't have something to hand. No dicking about with magnets and the VP2 is threaded with a nut so all you need to do is cut a hole in the lid. Looking about I cannot believe nobody has thought of this before as I can see loads of crazy DIY pressure release valve ideas on RUclips.
Jonathan Buzzard that is the answer I’ve been looking for & I was a plumber & have plenty of them, many thanks for the fantastic tip 👍🏼
Could do with a bit more info than fit a compression spring for someone who's not a plumber or used to seeking out this stuff please? Does the top stay off? Where to fit spring etc. Maybe do a video on it lol. :) Many thanks.
@@Mr_GadgeI imagine he meant to simply place a spring between the lid and the part that rises up during negative pressure. The hole in the lid would probably be to accommodate a steel rod to keep the spring in place. However, he mentions using a spring for decreasing the pressure, and what I'm describing increases the operating pressure.
Is that correct Jonathan? Don't want to spread misinformation
@@lennartjuhh Yes I mean increase the pressure at which it opperates.
Thank you, Glad i found this, on my third drum! How strong should the magnet be ?
Hi Mart, About 1 -2 kg. Experiment as it will depend on your cyclone build. Peter
Thank you very much
excellent, thankyou.
Glad you liked it!
The only problem with that design is that you need to stop and take off the lid to reset it. Have a look on Charlie DIYte's channel where he has just put out a new video using a spring-loaded, off-the-shelf valve, available on line, which is self re-setting as soon as the pressures re-equalise. That's the route I'm going to follow!
Hi Brian, Ages after making this video I introduced a new spring loaded design of my own using the same tin lid. However, now that I have the metal 4" cyclone from Axminster I do not need to worry about pressure relief valves. Cheers. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshopdo you mean you don't need to worry about a pressure relief valve, as the attached hose is too wide to get blocked?
A magnet is not required. This can be also done with a spring. The spring has also the advantage, that the pressure can be regulated.
+OpenGL4ever You are right and my latest design just uses springs. Peter
Well, engineering has advanced such that one can have an self resetting relief valve!
+Carmel Pule' Yes, if you follow the discussion you will see that we have made that leap forward. Peter
This is excellent Peter. Thank you.
I read that you changed to a an all spring system. Did you make a video of that?
I have a mini cyclone on my shop vac. Would the same system work for that? I imagine the shop vacuum pressure is higher. How do I adjust the spring force to get the right balance?
I do not have a video of the latest pressure relief valve but it is the same as the other one with the addition of an extra spring underneath. Having a pair of springs ensures that the tin lid returns to the closed position after activation. The pressure can be adjusted by adding a third spring or changing the distance across which the springs are stretched. If you have an Oneida cyclone there is no need to have a safety valve as their cyclones are strong enough to resist crushing. Peter
I have a generic Chinese cyclone and it is true that the cyclone is strong. However I had to modify the collection bucket to prevent that from collapsing.
I have also had to add bleed holes in the cyclone to make sure there is always air entering the unit even with the hose is blocked. Like on a domestic vacuum cleaner. This has solved my problem for now but I might create a pressure release in the future.
Hello Peter =) First off, thank you for sharing your insights on collapsing containers. I had been thinking about how to relieve the pressure inside, I just didn't know where to start. Until I found your video =D
I wanted to ask, which might either be an elementary or stupid question... but I"ll ask anyway. What's the difference of having a pressure relief valve than leaving the hole open... or perhaps cover the hole with a foam (like the one used in the black Oneida bin), thereby preventing the pressure build-up at the start?
Again, thank you and God bless! - Norman (Manila, Philippines) =)
Hi Norman, The pressure relief valve is only there in case the inlet hose gets blocked and all the vacuum is applied inside the cyclone. Having a foam covered hole will reduce the efficiency of the system. The pressure relief valve only operates in the emergency situation when a hose is blocked. Peter
New Brit Workshop
Thank you for your response Peter :)
I may just have to consider the frustrating conclusion that it’s the material my container is made of that’s causing it to collapse from the suction pressure.
I have seen others make and use plywood for their container’s lid, but I’m not sure if that would not make the container implode.
I may just have to get a more sturdier container :)
Cheers!
Nice project and thanks for sharing. I love watching people think out of the box. As I was following along I came to a question? (Apologies if someone already asked.)
Why put a valve in it at all? The vacuum supplies a constant air draw rate. We know that without an additional air inlet, the system is too restrictive and collapses the bucket. Why not just leave an open hole? In my mind, the hole is all that is required. Am I missing something? Again thanks for sharing.
The hole would ruin the effectiveness. The system has to be sealed until a potential collapse - hence the valve. Peter
What size magnets web site closed
Hi Menna, They were 12 mm diameter and about 6 mm thick. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop thank's do you have any photo's of them ? did they have a hole in the middle of them
Hi Menna, I have no photos. They do not have holes in the middle. Peter
Contact Cyclone Central. They have quite a bit of information on their web site as well.
Peter
Are you using a shop vac with that cyclone? If so, the cyclone is too large. It's hard to believe that a dust collector blower, which has 1/10th the vacuum as a shop vac, could collapse that cyclone. And if you did require a relief valve, it should be in the inlet, not the bin. A leak in the bin sends dust to your final filter.
Hi Bill, I am using a Numatic NVD 750 which has a very small tank for the debris. It has enough sucking power to easily crush that original cyclone. However, I now have a metal cyclone from Axminster which does not need any relief valve and it is much cheaper (here in the UK) than the Oneida equivalent. Peter
Good call on placing the valve at the cyclone inlet Bill. I was planning to place it next to the cyclone in the lid, unaware this would suck debris up into the shop vac.
not a good fix, you still have to constantly go in to retrieve the cap
Hi Eulayses, I did in a later video modify the gadget using a pair of springs that return it to the right position every time. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop great! Do you have a link
I have tried to find it but failed. The design is so simple. I used the same tin lid as the valve and put 3 small holes, at 120 degree spacing, on the lip. I then found 3 fairly weak spring and fixed these to the tin lid and then to the underside of the drop box lid so that the tin lid covered the hole. I carefully experimented to check that it worked. Peter