Very good carburetor replacement. Looks like it was a success. The carburators on these two cycles are set slightly rich so the engine gets enough lubrication through the fuel and runs cooler. If it doesn't get enough fuel oil mixture the engine will get excessively hot. Between 550 and 700 degrees and the piston and cylinder will get scored up/ destroyed. Then the engine is toast unless you want to replace the cylinder and piston. I would rather my engines sputter/ run slightly rich a little on the top end and last a long time rather than they scream and burn the piston and cylinder up. When you are running wide open these engines are heating up between 400 and 500 degrees set at the factory. If I can keep my engine happy around 300 to 400 maximum degrees I'm cool with a tiny power reduction and have it running for years. When the carburetor is leaned out to top rpm they heat up between 550 to 700 degrees and begin to fry. At those temperatures they won't last long.
Be sure the top lever on the side of the blower handle the you grip to freeze the speed of the blower is all the way up so you can get full throttle. Sometimes that lever will get pushed down slightly and you will pull the trigger all the way back and it will not get to full throttle. The result is a decrease in blower force even though you are pulling the trigger all the way. It can act as though the blower has less power and make you look at the carburetor for a reason when it actually is in that lever setting.
I replaced carb on my bt 150 for same reason. it was fine but after less thaN 4 HOURS RUN TIME IT DID SAME EXACT SHIT AS OLD CARB. NEED A CARB THAT IS ADUSTABLE. THE EPA BS IS THE PROBLEM
Very good carburetor replacement. Looks like it was a success. The carburators on these two cycles are set slightly rich so the engine gets enough lubrication through the fuel and runs cooler. If it doesn't get enough fuel oil mixture the engine will get excessively hot. Between 550 and 700 degrees and the piston and cylinder will get scored up/ destroyed. Then the engine is toast unless you want to replace the cylinder and piston. I would rather my engines sputter/ run slightly rich a little on the top end and last a long time rather than they scream and burn the piston and cylinder up. When you are running wide open these engines are heating up between 400 and 500 degrees set at the factory. If I can keep my engine happy around 300 to 400 maximum degrees I'm cool with a tiny power reduction and have it running for years. When the carburetor is leaned out to top rpm they heat up between 550 to 700 degrees and begin to fry. At those temperatures they won't last long.
Be sure the top lever on the side of the blower handle the you grip to freeze the speed of the blower is all the way up so you can get full throttle. Sometimes that lever will get pushed down slightly and you will pull the trigger all the way back and it will not get to full throttle. The result is a decrease in blower force even though you are pulling the trigger all the way. It can act as though the blower has less power and make you look at the carburetor for a reason when it actually is in that lever setting.
This is the link to how to use the "W" gauge (gage) tool. ruclips.net/video/G7UdWQcVuNw/видео.html
I replaced carb on my bt 150 for same reason. it was fine but after less thaN 4 HOURS RUN TIME IT DID SAME EXACT SHIT AS OLD CARB. NEED A CARB THAT IS ADUSTABLE. THE EPA BS IS THE PROBLEM
Yup. Sucks. I work on these engines and it just keeps getting harder to work on them. Hidden adjustment screws or no adjustments. Really burns my tail