GOOD, BETTER, OR BEST? Viking Husqvarna Free Arm Machines & When Features Determined Prices !!
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- Опубликовано: 21 ноя 2024
- During the vintage era of sewing machines and many other consumer products, you would have choices in prices when shopping just like today. But back then, the quality was the same across the range of models offered. So what explains why customers were offered multiple price points on what appears to be the same product? It was all about features. The more features a machine offered, the higher the cost of production. And of course, some consumers were willing to paid more to get more bells and whistles; especially when new features/innovations were being introduced. All of the brands marketed their machines this way. This was just the price structure of the machines. Most accessories and all tables were available at extra cost.
I purchased a Viking 21 a few months ago...it was in its original case w the service guarantee tucked in its case. The B cam was the only cam with it. Aside from that & not able to find a 'pegged' bulb it's a clean, hard working little machine. So happy with Husqvarna!! Thank you for all the helpful info on it!
Sincerely, H Nelson
Thank you. I'm loving all your videos of working on these machines. I have recently come to own a 21A which came with the suitcase carrier, extension table, a wooden folding table that goes around the free arm or flips up, original cams A, B, C and extra cams A1, D, D1, and E. I'm ecstatic. It is gorgeous and sturdy, has a 7 1/2 between the needle and pillar which is important for me as a quilter. It is not in mint condition and has seen a lot of use and wear over it's life so far but is still making lovely stitches. I can't wait to get it fully cleaned up inside and out. It's probably the nicest sewing machine I will ever own, and green is my favorite color.
Wow, that is a great machine you have. What I think is even more rare is the table. I have only found one some years ago that I got with a 21A I restored. The table was some kind of Beechwood and in a wonderful 60's Mod shape. Don't know if your is like that but it was pretty Hip design back in the day.
It runs in excelent condition. Had it serviced once.
Oh this was extremely helpful.. I’ve had the Viking 19E Husqvarna which I got from my mom. Been trying to understand it for a while now and I found your channel. Super grateful❤️
Glad it helped!
Can you explain a little bit on how you cleaned the machine. You mention cleaning @3:50, soiling and old oil.
I have this machine and she’s a work horse she’s my favorite machine
I have a 21e. But there are some features that are on the 21. I have had it since 1961 when my mom went from a pedal to this. I still have the manual, cams, and receipt. Love it but afraid that I cant get it repaired. I live in New Mexico.
How great that you have your mom's machine Connie. If you find it challenging to get the machine serviced or repaired in this day and time, try joining one of the many vintage sewing machine groups on Facebook. It's a great way to network with others who love your brand of machine and you can get help to often find ways to repair it yourself or, alternately, to find others near you who can make repairs. There are lots of hobbyists out there like myself who enjoy working on these.
Hello from Philadelphia,
Thanks for all the great videos!! I wonder if you know what the difference is between the 21A and the 21E. . . was one an oscillating hook and the other a rotary? Also, where is your Viking Husqvarna listed for sale?
Hi. I have a 51E. I was wondering if you knew what size belt it should have. The 15" belt I have is too tight to position the motor below the door for the cams.
I picked up an old Husqvarna Viking 19e Special a number of years ago but it didn't have a drive belt installed to connect the motor. So I've never been able to use it. Any idea what size belt I need and where I can get one?
Hi Benjamin. You might try this site which carries some of the more tough to find parts. Be sure to specify whether you are needing the "LONG" or "SHORT" belt since those machines use two separate motor belts. Also, see their list of belts until you find the one that lists the 19E models for compatibility. If yours are both the same age, I would suggest ordering one of each. Here is the link:
sewingmachine221sale.bizland.com/store/page120.html
Hi! weird way to contact you, I know, but it was the best I could think of. I am looking for a old school heavy duty machine to fix my boat canopy and repair other canvas and leather type materials around the shop/house. Locally I can get a pfaff 360/362 or a Husqvarna automatic cl21a for about the same price. I know nothing about them , or sowing machines in general. And it looks like you ave had experience with both. I am a little worried that the husqvarna has a less powerfull motor here in europe (80w) then what I see in your videos (1,5a at 110v?). What is in your opinion the best machine of these two?
Based on what you describe wanting to sew, I would not use either of those models as they are not strong enough. Actually, I'm not sure if any vintage domestic machine would work well for you. What I WOULD suggest is finding an industrial machine (ideally a walking foot type) but others can be used. These machines will have stronger motors, wider work spacing, and can be purchased often for reasonable prices. Here is a link to a video I made on a basic Lock Stitch machine that I overhauled. There are lots of brands and model types since industrial machines are very project specific. Be SURE to measure the space under the presser foot to ensure that your materials are able to fit under the foot based on the projects you would work on. All machines vary in how much presser foot "Lift" they have. NOTE: If you do find a machine that works, you can replace the older style Clutch motor (such as the one you see in the video) to a SERVO type of motor which is a lot friendlier to sewing the projects you describe.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Thanks for the reply:) I am a bit surprised that neither is strong enough. There is a few videos floating around where they both sew multiple layers of various materials, and also some thin leather stuff. The canopy material does not seem that though, I would think my wifes machine could do it, but I dont want to risk it for obvious reasons hehe. Maybe I made it sound like I wanted to make saddles or shoes, I dont, but I do need something that can sew thicker materials. I will look more for something like what you describe, although the prices on the industrial machines are a lot tougher to swallow. And I prefer a smaller machine that I can put away when not needed and not something that comes built into a table. Out of curiosity how do you compare the pfaff 360 and the husqvarna cl21a ? They look similar to me, but I have no experience with this stuff.
Hello vintage sewing I own 21A . I wind the bobbin but when I try to sew it’s not work. It’s should switch automatically, but not in my case. Do you have tips , maybe I doing something wrong? Or she needed service? Thank you very much for yours videos I lorn a lot!!!!
It could be that part of the mechanism that allows the machine to switch back and forth from bobbin winding to sewing is stuck from lack of lubrication or dust etc. I would try to find a service center in your are that knows this brand of machine. Or, if you can get it to sew again, you might also try getting a separate bobbin winding box (sold new) and you can wind bobbins this way and still enjoy the sewing features of your 21A.
Thank you very much!
i have Viking 714 Vintage Sewing Machine.. how old is that model? thank you
Early to mid 1960's. That model is not a Husqvarna product. It was a Japanese made clone for the Eaton's Department Store chain. The name "Viking" was used for Husqvarna machines in the US but not in Canada.
Do these machines have metal gears? Thanks
Oh yes. All of the drive train is made of very hiqh quality steel with the exception of the hand wheel gear that engages the Worm gear of the direct drive motor. It is made of a fiberglass-like composite trademarked as "Textolite" by GE who invented it. It was used not to reduce costs but rather to create some play in the starting and stopping of the hand wheel. It has proven itself as being super durable over at least 75 years or more. Could it possibly fail? Sure, as can any material if stressed enough. But I can say that in over 10 years of enjoying this hobby and having seen several hundred vintage machines with multiples of Singer machines with this gear, I've yet to come across one that is cracked. So there is that.....
Thanks for that. I have lots of experience with the singer hand wheel so I know the kind of material you mean and the reason about the play. You are an excellent resource of information. I’m basically just a Singer hobbies so far. These Husqvarna machines look interesting. Oddly enough my wife just bought a new Husqvarna machine to replace her 25 hy old Husqvarna machine. She likes them. The only vintage machine she uses is her Featherweight for piecing quilt tops. Cheers and thanks for your help
What do you use to take the machine oil off? I am taking an old machine (Necchi Supernova Ultra) I bought in for a tune up, cleaning and oiling. The gasket around the bottom of my machine has come off at some point so it sits too low in the desk. Do you know of a place where old parts can be sourced. I have contacted a Necchi dealer but they said they handle only new machines and cannot help me.
Hello. I'm not surprised that your Necchi dealer has nothing to offer here. The original Necchi company, like most of the legacy brands, does not exist and is currently a "brand label" owned by a modern machine maker. ( I want to say Janome owns the rights but I would need to doublecheck that). In any case, restorers often have to find something to "make do" and find workarounds. You could investigate using something like felt pads that you can get in craft stores with self adhesive on them. You could shim with this until you got the machine level. You can also purchase cork sheets that can be used as a "gasket" to help level the machine if I understand your description of the issue correctly. For other parts needs, you can get vintage parts on sites like Ebay and Bonanza. Some new reproduction parts made for Singer class 15 machines will SOMETIMES work. Necchis from the time period yours were made are some of the finest consumer grade machines ever made IMHO.
Vintage Sewing Machine Garage: I had been thinking a bead of silicone might help but was concerned it would peel off too easily so your suggestion of felt or cork self adhesive material sounds like a much better alternative. So far as I know everything is working but I will know more after the cleaning and testing if that is actually the case. The fellow selling it (it was his mother's and was heavily used) plugged it in and ran it when he delivered it. However I was reluctant to use it until it was cleaned up. I didn't want to do any harm to it. It had sat unused for several years in a home where there was obviously heavy smoking as there is nicotine stain on everything. While the machine itself is in the shop I will get the desk cleaned up as best I can. Do you have any favourite products for that job? From what I have seen of it, it looks well constructed. I am sure once it is cleaned and set up properly I will be very happy with it. Thank you so much for your feedback. It certainly helps. I have never tried to this before but I was getting frustrated with my computerized machine that if you looked at the wrong way the stitch quality would act up.
I love my 21e but need spare parts. Do you know where I could obtain parts please Uk
Try EBay
Thank you
Can I get to chat with someone about a husqvarna Viking