Now that’s a PID controller! Very nice job George, man I wish I had eyesight, I would definitely build something like that! But then I’d have to get a bigger boiler, right? To go with that 3 inch column! Oh boy!
George any electrical circuit has a max working load. An example of this would be a 30 amp circuit would have a max working load of 24 amps. Or 10 gage wire is rated at 30 amps, max working load is 24 amps and a max wire run of 50 feet, when you start running amps close to the max amperage a circuit is rated at heat will start building heat in your breaker which can lead to a failure. Please make sure the folks who buy this set up from you have the proper wiring where they plan to install your device. Your controller is really cool, and I’ve often wondered if one pid can control 2 electronic relays.
Hey George nice video. Just wondering why you didn't add a parts list and where we can get these parts? Also, I have build my current controllers with a analog rheostat and amp meter. My HERMS is wired with a 3 wire system, 2-120v and a ground. I run 2-120 volt pumps and 2-30 amp receptacles no problem for years 2-30amp SSRs. I have a 70 amp breaker coming into the brewery no neutral! Would you please give me info on the parts? Thanks Dave
Thank you George on for your insightful movies , I wanted to know if I have 3 heaters I can connect them according to the same principle of the connections you made
Hello George, running just one ta4 PID on two ss 50da relays?? Sharing output voltage from the PID, to both ss relays at one time is that cutting the voltage from the PID in half? Would that not be Causing you to lose total output from the ss relays, while only allowing both heater elements to work at half voltage? Further that much load on the small amp PID output, I think would smoke the PID transiters and broad. I notice that MyPin states that the PID is design for only one ss relay. I feel it's a good idea, but You should consider a PID for each Relay. Sorry George lol I don't think this design would pass UL certification...
Happy distilling! Been looking for something like this for brewing beer. Could this work for say a RIMS tube and boil kettle elements?? 30amp 240v and they would not be running at the same time... Happy brewing too!
hi George love your channel i was wondering how or if there is a way of knowing how much alc/vol after adding a flavoring.i made a coffee liqueur at 40%alc and would like to know how to tell what the alc is after adding the flavor and thickener if you could do a vid it would be so helpful thanks
Hello George! Will I'm ordering parts for my PID. My question is do I need a 10 gage 4 wire cable or can I use a 10 gage 3 wire cable? 240 coming into a MYPIN Universal Digital TD4-SNR PID Temperature Controller and Fotek SSR-50DA-H 50A SSR 50DA H DC to AC Relay Solid State Resistance Regulator for my 13 gallon milk can still. Thank God for your videos on these PID's, as well as the tips on distilling.
10 AWG for that size would be best. You only need 10AWG for the incoming power and then to and from the SSR. All other wiring can be 16 AWG and for signalling on pins 3,4 of the SSR you can use bell wire. George
I sent an email for a price on a dual element unit and an offer to purchase a wiring diagram. I haven't heard anything back from him. Hope everything is going well with George.
Hey George awesome videos. i watch u all the time...the the knowledge you share is priceless ....I am setting up a 3 wire 240v 20amp system running a 3500watt element . I have a couple questions I'm hoping you can answer 1. I am using the same mean well converter to power my dc fan that u are using....i am unsure how to connect it..i assume i connect one hot leg to my load line but which line do i connect for the neutral because i do not have a neutral line in a 3 wire system. 2. I want to use a lighted switch like u have. do i buy a 3pin switch or 4pin switch. I assume if it is a 3 pin switch then i only connect one hot leg to it and the other hot leg i run directly to my outlet????
Your second hot wire goes to the N pin on the meanwell IC block since you don't have a neutral. The IC block is rated to handle this. You will need a 4 pin lighted switch since you do not have a neutral to run a 120V circuit. Both hot wires go to the bottom of the switch and two hot wires come out the top and go to the PID power in pins. Do not run it to the outlet, the amperage will burn it up. The outlet should have one hot wire from Pin 2 on the SSR and one hot wire from the wall. This way you are switching the closed loop circuit with the SSR. George
Barley and Hops Brewing I’m using electric stove elements that average at 3k watts I was wanting run them of a heat control panel with a pid. What would that consist of?
Barley and Hops Brewing That’s interesting, and it didn’t blow out. Actually that’s perfect because I have a couple of 12 V red, I thought that being it’s putting out 32 V it would blow those up. Thanks for your help I’ll let you know if it all works out.
I know that is a great price. I have spent 500 in money time and aggravation. Finally with George’s video help I can run my set up flawlessly. Buy his box and be done. You will not regret it
Can anyone take this bag of snakes and lay them out for the rest of us non-electricians to understand? I have watched all of George's heater videos, and I've learned a lot,but I can't make sense of this with all those black wires.
Did you switch to the Fotek SSR-50 DAs because their 25DA and 40DA models are not actually rated for 25 and 40 amps respectively? RUclipsrs who have taken them apart found the Triacs inside them can only handle 10A for the 25DA and 16 amps for the 40DA models. . Anyone using them for controlling heating elements is taking a big risk unless they use quality SSRs that meet their specified ratings. There is also the problem with fake / counterfeit Fotek relays on the market protosupplies.com/inferior-counterfeit-fotek-ssr-25-solid-state-relays-on-the-market/
No, I used them because I always overbuild controllers for safety. I've seen this post you added about the counterfeit SSRs. I haven't run across one yet.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Have you tested any or taken any apart to check what TRIACs are used? Counterfeit Fotek SSRs have been sold by both Amazon and eBay, Even authenticate Fotek SSRs are made in China junk compared to quality SSRs from Crydom, Schneider, or Teledyne that meet US and CSA standards. Running Foteks without constant supervision is risky when operating very high watt instruments like heating elements that can start major fires, Also, not to be argumentative but you have posted several videos using Fotek 25DA and 40DAs. This video is the first one of yours I've seen using 50DAs.
This is because it is a dual 5500Watt element controller. A bit of an overbuild on my part. I did take one apart and can say that the BTA24-800 Triac used is rated for 25 amps at 800 volts. This is exactly what the label says. I see no reason why someone would disassemble one since it would render it useless. The components are embedded in a heat resistant solid paste. I am always suspicious when I see reports like the one you offered and the ones I've seen. There is also no financial benefit of using inferior triacs since the cost is so low (less than a $1) there is no savings by switching them. The primary problem I run into is people who get the 25 DA and then they try to run a 35,45 or 5500 Watt element which all would overload the triac immediately. My opinion is: No one wants to admit this or blame themselves, it is much easier to say that they are counterfeit and inferior. I have not seen any posts that even indicate the type of triac they discovered or its rating. Makes me wonder. George
@@BarleyandHopsBrewingMany people have reported serious problems with Fotek SSRs. A quick search of Google or RUclips proves that. In addition to the article I linked previously there are many others like this one for example, from home distillers like yourself who discovered melted Fotek SSRs in their controller boxes boxes.aussiehomebrewer.com/threads/counterfeit-ssr-warning-check-your-gear.90323/ As far as Foteks being filled with epoxy that it isn't always true. I have seen some with hardly any epoxy, Here is a video of an electrical engineer who works with SSRs taking apart a Fotek and showing how little epoxy it had ruclips.net/video/DxEhxjvifyY/видео.html You're incorrect to blame users when there are actual facts proving the poor quality of these SSRs. There are even news articles warning people about the problems www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/ul-warns-of-solid-state-relay-with-counterfeit-ul-recognition-mark-release-13pn-52-242919311.html If you know of a licensed Fotek dealer in the US please post the contact info. Foteks can't be found in the inventory of legitimate suppliers like Mouser or DigiKey Electronics. Foteks are cheap for a reason: *As they say you get what you pay for only in this case it can burn down your house.* Since you sell these SSRs to customers I wish you luck.
Thanks so much for that load of research. You are changing my mind quickly. Unlike some people who post here, you do your homework and I appreciate that. My eyes are always open to information from reputable sources and you are a reputable source to me. Greta job. I appreciate it. Please continue to comment as your comments have weight. George
I must be the only guy here with zero knowledge of electrics that is more confused now than at the start. No way can I follow this safely and build my own. Shame, off to watch more vids.
@@charleschapman2428 Wow, someone is quite the negative Nancy. It is a guide on how to, not a strict do as i do. It suited my purposes just fine, thanks George!
@@christoplerlee1 What are you, the body guard ? Don't get your panties in a wad over a comment, George can speak for himself. There's always a suck up.
Charles, many people would say the same thing. I can build these for you if you like. If you want a walk through video on one specific build I can't do that. It is not a good use of the time it takes to provide information to all of our subscribers and viewers. Let me know if I can help but until then be courteous to others and ask questions if you need help. A blurb about a walk through video is not a good way to get personal assistance. Before you blow p about this, I have hundreds of people that I have coached individually through an entire build and they seem to be very happy with their success. George
Thank you, George! I have completed all of the "Heating Sources" videos!! Thank you for the education!!
Now that’s a PID controller! Very nice job George, man I wish I had eyesight, I would definitely build something like that! But then I’d have to get a bigger boiler, right? To go with that 3 inch column! Oh boy!
Your videos are really helping please continue to do them I love them told a few of my friends too
Absolutely amazing application of top of the line heat control. Just bought the same enclosure
I enjoy all of your videos and learn all that I need to know. Thank you George.
George any electrical circuit has a max working load. An example of this would be a 30 amp circuit would have a max working load of 24 amps. Or 10 gage wire is rated at 30 amps, max working load is 24 amps and a max wire run of 50 feet, when you start running amps close to the max amperage a circuit is rated at heat will start building heat in your breaker which can lead to a failure. Please make sure the folks who buy this set up from you have the proper wiring where they plan to install your device. Your controller is really cool, and I’ve often wondered if one pid can control 2 electronic relays.
Hey George nice video. Just wondering why you didn't add a parts list and where we can get these parts? Also, I have build my current controllers with a analog rheostat and amp meter. My HERMS is wired with a 3 wire system, 2-120v and a ground. I run 2-120 volt pumps and 2-30 amp receptacles no problem for years 2-30amp SSRs. I have a 70 amp breaker coming into the brewery no neutral! Would you please give me info on the parts? Thanks Dave
nice job with the control panel
George, Nice work and videos! Can you tell me how you wired the indicator lights? I appreciate the help in advance.
Great info George Thanks
(Bump) If a voltage regulator was added, would it go before or after the PID? I.e. not having to run full power to element.
I need one George. love your work brother. Peace and be safe out there.
Shoot me an email.
Need me one too
Thank you George on for your insightful movies , I wanted to know if I have 3 heaters I can connect them according to the same principle of the connections you made
Hello George, running just one ta4 PID on two ss 50da relays?? Sharing output voltage from the PID, to both ss relays at one time is that cutting the voltage from the PID in half? Would that not be Causing you to lose total output from the ss relays, while only allowing both heater elements to work at half voltage? Further that much load on the small amp PID output, I think would smoke the PID transiters and broad. I notice that MyPin states that the PID is design for only one ss relay. I feel it's a good idea, but You should consider a PID for each Relay. Sorry George lol I don't think this design would pass UL certification...
Hey George!
Looking for that yellow plug for my thermal couple to attach to. You have a link or a proper name for me to look for?
Thanks!
I'm looking for a dual element controller for a powder coat oven. Would that be something you could do?
Nice
What kind of cooling fan transformer are you using 🤔
Happy distilling! Been looking for something like this for brewing beer. Could this work for say a RIMS tube and boil kettle elements?? 30amp 240v and they would not be running at the same time... Happy brewing too!
Quick question could you have one element on pid and other on scr and once you get to temp turn it down low.
Sure
I have the pdi and the ssr already. I don't currently have 220v hookup is why I ask if it needs 220v
Hey George what’s the best induction burner to use for distilling.
George, any chance you can link a parts list and schematic to this video?
hi George love your channel i was wondering how or if there is a way of knowing how much alc/vol after adding a flavoring.i made a coffee liqueur at 40%alc and would like to know how to tell what the alc is after adding the flavor and thickener if you could do a vid it would be so helpful thanks
There are several calculators on line for this. Just work out the volume additions to achieve the % you want.
George
what size box did you use?
How much for the box without pdi and ssr and voltage indicator? Is it ran on only 220v?
Also, do pids work well? I thought they would struggle trying to hit a moving target as the alcohol drops and temps change.
They work excellently. They cannot take into account alcohol volume so as the still stops producing you will need to increase the set point.
Hello George! Will I'm ordering parts for my PID. My question is do I need a 10 gage 4 wire cable or can I use a 10 gage 3 wire cable? 240 coming into a MYPIN Universal Digital TD4-SNR PID Temperature Controller and Fotek SSR-50DA-H 50A SSR 50DA H DC to AC Relay Solid State Resistance Regulator for my 13 gallon milk can still. Thank God for your videos on these PID's, as well as the tips on distilling.
10 AWG for that size would be best. You only need 10AWG for the incoming power and then to and from the SSR. All other wiring can be 16 AWG and for signalling on pins 3,4 of the SSR you can use bell wire.
George
@@BarleyandHopsBrewingThank you so much George. It seems that the older I get, the less I under stand. But I'm trying!
I know this is a older video but a great one . Do you have a parts list and a wiring diagram ?
I sent an email for a price on a dual element unit and an offer to purchase a wiring diagram. I haven't heard anything back from him. Hope everything is going well with George.
hi george hope i can get a diagram for this set up will use a two 5500 heat element hope you can help me thanks in advance
HI : George what parts are needed for a 240 Volt 30 amp dual element controller with a amp meter ?I want to try to build one
I sent him an email asking to buy plans/schematic. I'll let you know if it's an option.
Hey George awesome videos. i watch u all the time...the the knowledge you share is priceless
....I am setting up a 3 wire 240v 20amp system running a 3500watt element . I have a couple questions I'm hoping you can answer
1. I am using the same mean well converter to power my dc fan that u are using....i am unsure how to connect it..i assume i connect one hot leg to my load line but which line do i connect for the neutral because i do not have a neutral line in a 3 wire system.
2. I want to use a lighted switch like u have. do i buy a 3pin switch or 4pin switch. I assume if it is a 3 pin switch then i only connect one hot leg to it and the other hot leg i run directly to my outlet????
Your second hot wire goes to the N pin on the meanwell IC block since you don't have a neutral. The IC block is rated to handle this.
You will need a 4 pin lighted switch since you do not have a neutral to run a 120V circuit. Both hot wires go to the bottom of the switch and two hot wires come out the top and go to the PID power in pins. Do not run it to the outlet, the amperage will burn it up. The outlet should have one hot wire from Pin 2 on the SSR and one hot wire from the wall. This way you are switching the closed loop circuit with the SSR.
George
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Awesome info
i can't thank you enough for info you share with the distilling community
Where would you recommend the thermocouple be placed on a 40 gallon reflux running a 4" column.
I'm running a pid control with two 5500 watt elements
Where ever the vapor leaves the column.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing thanks
Building a diy powder coating oven with 6-10 elements running off 220 what are the requirements I would need to build a control panel?
You need to match your overall wattage with the proper wire and fuse.
Barley and Hops Brewing I’m using electric stove elements that average at 3k watts I was wanting run them of a heat control panel with a pid. What would that consist of?
Can you tell me what voltage the indicator lights are heating control that you used? Thanks.
12 volt led
Barley and Hops Brewing
That’s interesting, and it didn’t blow out. Actually that’s perfect because I have a couple of 12 V red, I thought that being it’s putting out 32 V it would blow those up. Thanks for your help I’ll let you know if it all works out.
If you have 2 elements plugged in and you turn both switches on and the both call for heat won’t it trip the breaker?
Yes if you don't match the power requirement with the proper circuit.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing any recommendations for a 30 amp 240 toggle switch.on-off-on?
Hi George,
Do you sell Ready made PID’s
Yes I do. Send me an email
george.duncan76@gmail.com
We will discuss your needs
You can also call if you like
254-681-1760
maybe get back to basics? a copper pot still using natural gas. i'd love to see that set up.
i feel you i use a stainless pot still and gas and chasing temps are a big thing
hey George nice job i want one just like that. also sign whats the cost.
Price is based o requirements so I do not have a base price. A standard single 240 V controller starts at $215 with free shipping.
I know that is a great price. I have spent 500 in money time and aggravation. Finally with George’s video help I can run my set up flawlessly. Buy his box and be done. You will not regret it
Could you wire the DC fan to the alarm pins on the PID & just set the alarm "always on" instead of using the rectifier?
Alarms pins do not produce any current. You need to provide that for these to work.
WOULD YOU SEND ME A DIAGRAM ON THE TWO ELEMENT CONTROL PANEL, OR i WILL PAY YOU
Can anyone take this bag of snakes and lay them out for the rest of us non-electricians to understand? I have watched all of George's heater videos, and I've learned a lot,but I can't make sense of this with all those black wires.
Yes guys two element 1 fan one motor auto control switch
my require
George where sis you order your volt meter
Amazon
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U28Z2QC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Did you switch to the Fotek SSR-50 DAs because their 25DA and 40DA models are not actually rated for 25 and 40 amps respectively? RUclipsrs who have taken them apart found the Triacs inside them can only handle 10A for the 25DA and 16 amps for the 40DA models. . Anyone using them for controlling heating elements is taking a big risk unless they use quality SSRs that meet their specified ratings.
There is also the problem with fake / counterfeit Fotek relays on the market
protosupplies.com/inferior-counterfeit-fotek-ssr-25-solid-state-relays-on-the-market/
No, I used them because I always overbuild controllers for safety.
I've seen this post you added about the counterfeit SSRs. I haven't run across one yet.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Have you tested any or taken any apart to check what TRIACs are used? Counterfeit Fotek SSRs have been sold by both Amazon and eBay,
Even authenticate Fotek SSRs are made in China junk compared to quality SSRs from Crydom, Schneider, or Teledyne that meet US and CSA standards.
Running Foteks without constant supervision is risky when operating very high watt instruments like heating elements that can start major fires,
Also, not to be argumentative but you have posted several videos using Fotek 25DA and 40DAs. This video is the first one of yours I've seen using 50DAs.
This is because it is a dual 5500Watt element controller. A bit of an overbuild on my part.
I did take one apart and can say that the BTA24-800 Triac used is rated for 25 amps at 800 volts. This is exactly what the label says. I see no reason why someone would disassemble one since it would render it useless. The components are embedded in a heat resistant solid paste.
I am always suspicious when I see reports like the one you offered and the ones I've seen.
There is also no financial benefit of using inferior triacs since the cost is so low (less than a $1) there is no savings by switching them.
The primary problem I run into is people who get the 25 DA and then they try to run a 35,45 or 5500 Watt element which all would overload the triac immediately.
My opinion is: No one wants to admit this or blame themselves, it is much easier to say that they are counterfeit and inferior. I have not seen any posts that even indicate the type of triac they discovered or its rating.
Makes me wonder.
George
@@BarleyandHopsBrewingMany people have reported serious problems with Fotek SSRs. A quick search of Google or RUclips proves that. In addition to the article I linked previously there are many others like this one for example, from home distillers like yourself who discovered melted Fotek SSRs in their controller boxes boxes.aussiehomebrewer.com/threads/counterfeit-ssr-warning-check-your-gear.90323/ As far as Foteks being filled with epoxy that it isn't always true. I have seen some with hardly any epoxy, Here is a video of an electrical engineer who works with SSRs taking apart a Fotek and showing how little epoxy it had ruclips.net/video/DxEhxjvifyY/видео.html
You're incorrect to blame users when there are actual facts proving the poor quality of these SSRs. There are even news articles warning people about the problems www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/ul-warns-of-solid-state-relay-with-counterfeit-ul-recognition-mark-release-13pn-52-242919311.html
If you know of a licensed Fotek dealer in the US please post the contact info. Foteks can't be found in the inventory of legitimate suppliers like Mouser or DigiKey Electronics. Foteks are cheap for a reason: *As they say you get what you pay for only in this case it can burn down your house.* Since you sell these SSRs to customers I wish you luck.
Thanks so much for that load of research. You are changing my mind quickly. Unlike some people who post here, you do your homework and I appreciate that. My eyes are always open to information from reputable sources and you are a reputable source to me.
Greta job. I appreciate it. Please continue to comment as your comments have weight.
George
I must be the only guy here with zero knowledge of electrics that is more confused now than at the start. No way can I follow this safely and build my own. Shame, off to watch more vids.
Same boat. Someone send him a pack of dry erase markers. If that drawing on the whiteboard was color-coded, I could follow along.
Come on George, you only have black wire, How wrong is that? It is a mess.
Yeah a mess but for my own personal use it works well. When you run out of colored wire you do what you can.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing First, you don't make a walkthrough video.
@@charleschapman2428 Wow, someone is quite the negative Nancy. It is a guide on how to, not a strict do as i do. It suited my purposes just fine, thanks George!
@@christoplerlee1 What are you, the body guard ? Don't get your panties in a wad over a comment, George can speak for himself. There's always a suck up.
Charles, many people would say the same thing. I can build these for you if you like. If you want a walk through video on one specific build I can't do that. It is not a good use of the time it takes to provide information to all of our subscribers and viewers. Let me know if I can help but until then be courteous to others and ask questions if you need help. A blurb about a walk through video is not a good way to get personal assistance. Before you blow p about this, I have hundreds of people that I have coached individually through an entire build and they seem to be very happy with their success.
George