So after 2 hours of trying to understand the terminology of the "manual" I googled for instructions and this wonderful video showed up, i really hope that Ink bird pays you for each person who uses this video for the setup. Thank you very much
Thank You So Much George! All I needed was one simple explanation (out of this maze - which the manual did not provide) but *You did* awesome sir. I am using ITC-100 as my temperature controller, I've connected a washing machine heating element to the RC as my heating source which I am using to warm up a body of water in a metal container in which a bucket of solidified honey is sitting. The crucial piece I was missing was to set the 'run' function to *Automatic* Bingo!! Your Clarity of explanation is Top Notch! Thanks Again George!🙏
By far the absolute best video on PID setup. I use a PID in my temp controlled forge for knife making and this was the video that helped me understand everything in order to set it up properly!
Just finished building my PID last night and I did a test run with water in my still. Amazing to watch it work. Looking forward to running my rum wash later this week using the PID controller. Thanks for all of your help George!
Built and programmed controller as per your instructions. IT WORKS GREAT. Thanks for your instructions. I also used a glass with a lot of ice and little water, let it sit for 15 minutes, inserted my probe and it read 32.5 degrees F.. I also checked the upper limit with boiling water, as you suggested. Thanks again.
Thank you. This was very useful and easy to understand. Was looking for the PID setting from burning out my mechanical high power relay and accessing buffer setting. For commercial kitchen water boiler replacing analog thermostat.
Thank you for doing this. I build an oven for heat treating steel. It will operate around 1550 degrees F. Now all I have to do is figure out this controller and what you have put out here I hope will get rid of my head ache, lol.
Awesome tutorial, but i have a 100VL which has a different menu/settings/ and symbols. Some of the menu system is similar which was a huge help in figuring out at least half of my controller.
Incredibly well done instructions! Thank you. Could you elaborate on how to use the Autotune setting? You skipped over it to use PID instead of AT. My heat treat oven needs a little finer control than the settings that you suggested.
Finished my first PID assembly and settings/parameters setup; it's working great! For the settings, I watched your video, and marked on the instruction sheet what settings you use or underlined what the settings should be. At least that way I have a hard copy of what I want if I mess something up later. You made this easy. Finding the parts, cutting, layout, everything you need is in your videos. It doesn't matter to me how long your videos are, you make it so anyone can understand what needs to be done, and how to do it - at least one way to do it easily. Don't let the nay-sayers get you down. Happy distilling!
Thank you for this video. I used it to get up and running. I have one thing that I'd like to do. I'm using the inkbird to operate a water pump on my heating system. I would like to turn the pump on when the water gets to 130 degrees F and shut off at 150 degrees. I'm operating in on/Off mode. I tried to set the P value but it didn't seem to work.
Brilliant thank you, this helped me setup my Inkbird IPB 16-S which is effectively the same PID I guess, best instructional Inkbird video on the internet by far.
Great video! Thank you for hat you do! I just finished my PID. Is there a way to factory reset the settings and start over again? My PID’s light isn’t blinking when it gets close to temp. Also, I’m using mine for a smoker if that makes any difference. Thank you in advance!
Hey George, Great video. My question is for controlling an electric smoker. The PID settings of 1-540-200 work but because the heating element stays hot longer when powered down and takes longer to heat when energized, the range is still around 20 degrees. Can you recommend setting to help tweak this range a bit tighter? Which setting should I play with (P, I, D) to experiment with for a closer range. Thanks so much for your information and lessons in layman's terms.
I think I'm having a problem with my inkbird pid unit. I wired it correctly, installed it in my electric smoker, set the parameters as you described. At first it seemed to be working great. I set the temp at 120, It came up to temp and held there within a couple degrees plus minus. I placed my summer sausage in the smoker for an hr, turned the set temp up to 160 and it never read above 130 actual temp, but the sausage came up to 160?? Do I need to calibrate the thermocouple? Please help!
I wanted a better controller for my smoker. I looked into a PID controller but was overwhelmed by the complexity. Once I found your channel and heard your explanation of a PID, I ordered an Inkbird controller and set it up. You took the fear out of the whole process. The company should have you write the instruction page. You provide a great service. Thanks for all you do! Jeff
Awesome series of videos. Thank you. There is a setting that may have an obvious answer but not to me. Hit the set button once an a100 display appears. The number is adjustable from 0-100 and I assume that it is a power adjustment but am not sure. Can you clear up what the function of this setting is. Tia.
Hi, Great video. Just got one of these to retrofit on my Rancillio Silvia espresso machine. It's working Ok but trying to tune up the PID values better. The autotune function works but I think I can get it much better as I tune PID controllers at work in a chemical plant. My question is: What are the units for P, I and D on these? For example, is I seconds, 1/sec, etc. The manual doesn't say.
Thanks for this walkthrough. I installed this PID on my single boiler espresso machine with a desired temperature around 98c. Can I use your proposed settings of P:1, I: 540, d: 200. Because I have heard from other espresso PID users advised that values should be around the following: P: 15-25, I:10-40 and D: 1-3 (near to zero). I am interested in the differences in configuration. A am curious to hear your vision. Currently (Ctl:4, P:18, I:35, D:8) the machine overshoots 16c and undershoots 6c. Thanks for advice
I'm using this controller cooling. is there a way to lengthen the cycle time or loop ? the blower motor on my chiller keeps cycling on and off. Any help you might provide would be greatly appreciated.
Great video. I am wondering do I need a special contactor. The one I used is just a typical contactor. 240v but when it gets to 3 degrees of set point it cycles on and off which I'm afraid will burn the contactor prematurely. Any help is appreciated
I have rechecked all my parameters, still my control high and low runs from 15 to 20 degrees above and below my set temp! Could it be my k probe! It on my powder coat oven I built.
Thank you for this video. I’ve got one of these on an injection moulding machine and for some reason I can’t change the set value. it just has a decimal place the blinks on the right hand side when you press the up and down keys. So I’m hoping some of your guidance on the menus will help me resolve this issue.
I set up the parameters exactly this way but my boil stops and temp is not held. It probably has about a three degree swing, when Im over sp power turns off as it should bit boiling stops at that point as well. Power kicks back on about 2.5° under sp, boiling starts again and this is the loop.... Heeeelp
Hi George, I have watched your clip and I enjoyed your way of presenting the PID set up details. I am just in the beginning, but what I am interested is the "ramp an soak" set up by use of a PID controller. So, could the 106V controller be used for a ramp and soak controlling of a ceramic kiln?
Is hysteris the setting for the degrees in temp between on and off? For example, if I want a 5 degree high/low swing from my set temp, do I set hysteris to 5?
Would you possibly be willing to outline the specific settings you use and recommend for beer brewing using a RIMS tube type recirc mash? I’m having issues with overshoot and have tried multiple times to auto tune. TIA.
I bought a PID controller from you George. I just went through the video again and set all perimeters to what you said. My controller always fluctuates about 7-10 degrees up and down during a run. Not understanding why. My D is set at 200. Any advice would be helpful. I also have to change the df to 0.1 each time. Have a great day
Hey George big fan thank you for your insights. I need your help after following you on this vid my PID inkbird is still not working. I have the same volt display as you do on this vid and it reads 244v and 12 amps my pid shows only 100% power at the start then tapers off when my SV is reached but the iout put light on the PID is on the power is at 0% but my volt meter is showing 11 amp and 245v and if i understand my burner is still getting power as my volt meters round thingy has only one wire from my burner going through it. so how do i get this PID to turn off the power if its saying 0% ? please help
I've got this PID controller wired up to 2-40 watt ceramic heat bulbs for my home made incubator. I used your settings here. The controller is over shooting and undershooting 2 degrees from set temp of 99.5 fereinheight. Is there a way to fine tune this more? Thanks for the video!!
How do you get it to remember the set value. When power-cycled mine always goes back to the default of 122F (same as yours in the vid). Other PIDs I've used have remembered the last set value when power cycled.
my screen on the bottom jumps to the 600 degrees then down to 38 degrees then shows oral and keeps switching numbers. it’s on my heat press and the bottom plate isn’t heating up. any help would be greatly appreciated!
We have the inkbird 106rh operating Asco valves on our brewstand for brewing beer. We are using the on/off feature so as not to have the propane going on and off so frequently. The problem we are having is the lag of reading and displaying temp. Is there any way to remove the lag on what it is reading on a K type probe?
Does the mypin have the option somewhere for manual mode to set the percentage of power that goes to the elements or is that only available on the inkbird.
Hey there, I loved the video, it was very helpful. But I have a small issue right now. I am building a small kiln, I have got everything set up, I am using a SSR and Kenthal coils as a heat source. I connected a door switch and It all turned up grate. I programmed my controller exactly like you showed in the video but when I turned it on the display shows some strange things (the “ALM” and “RUN” LEDs turns on and off as long as the “OUT” LED) and the voltage on the coils runs on 220V for a sec and then goes to 0V for like 6 sec, and the temperature is far from the wanted temperature. I have no idea what to do and I will love some help. Thanx a lot
I set my PID controller exactly has you said and it works great. Thank you! Now I did all you that you said, but I do not understand why these values are to be what they are. It would be very enlightening if you explain this a bit more. Your explanation was great, thank you again.
Great video -lots of needed detail! I built as similar one and am doing a dry run on it now on an electric smoker. I set it up per your recommendations. I also went ahead and calibrated it to 212F by putting the probe into boiling water and adjusting the calibration display until it matched. For the trial, the target temperature is set to 130F. Reportedly this unit is accurate to +/- 1F. The best I can get it to the 130F target is +/- 7F. (Actually it's +14/-0) To get this I set it 7 degrees under the target (123F) so it runts 123-137F based on a very accurate thermometer. With a smoker, has anybody had better luck due to it turning the element on at the target temperature, shutting off, and the heat continues to carry over and overshooting? Granted, it's WAY more accurate than the controller that came with it but would like to get closer to the stated specs. Any Suggestions?
My InkBird 106VH controller seemed to work fine, but when the OUT light turned off, as it should have at the desired temp, the relay stayed open and my heater stayed on, almost killing all my fish in my pond. I found in OP settings it was set to manual inhibit, instead of auto. I HOPE this will solve the problem. If not, what could it be?
can I test the still with just water? plugged it in put water in the kettle and set the PID for 100F. the kettle gets to 200 or a little more but the 2" reflux still never gets past 74 or 75. concerning to me. I have always ran this same still on Propane without any issues, but that was always with a Mash or sugar wash. not with just water. Any advice?
First off, GREAT VIDEOS!!! I purchased this PID for my espresso machine, so i‘ll be using this for a heat PID. I wanted to verify the accuracy of the temperature of the PID and thermocouple combination.Would I use a boiling hot bath or ice water bath to adjust my calibration offset?Thanks for your time!!!
I used both ice water and boiling water to check my system. I used a lot of ice and a little water, let it sit for 15 minutes to stabilize, inserted the probe and it read 32.5 degrees F.. On the boiling water test I previously had set my Calibration Offset (SC) to +4 degrees. As a reminder, check your altitude to determine water boiling point.
Hi George, I currently run a Rex PID that's okay but it has it's limitations, I think I would like to upgrade it to a 106VH, however I can't seem to find this information anywhere, does it have a time control setting on this unit as our steriliser runs for 14 hours when it reaches temperature, that can cause many inconveniences. Ta, Ian
I listened to your video on how to set up the Inkbird PID. Initially everything looked fine. I changed the factory set parameters to what you had suggested. Went back to the initial screen and the PV value reads 528 instead of 20. I am using a K TC, pulled one lead off the PID and put it back on but it is still reading 528 and it appears to fluctuate as if it is sensing temperature. But the TC is sitting on the bench. Is there a factory setting I changed that caused this problem?
Auto-Tune? Im setting up a 1800w countertop commercial Pizza oven im modding for PID .. its working but ive not used inkbird but now I boughgt one since they seem to get good reviews ! i have a few fancier programmable PIDs of different brand I dont need for this.. just want to control temps and get em there quickly as i can and stable for baking things
@@SkyShupe I got really fed up with PID’s. Now I use a potentiometer type of controller to adjust the amount of power going to the coil instead of a temperature probe. Once the system balanced I don’t have to keep constantly adjusting the temperature. Mine runs perfectly at 75% through the whole run.
Absolutely incredible and informative. I just built my PID for my BBQ smoker element. It works great! One question - the smoker cabinet is so well insulated it overshoots my SV of 200° by +25° initially. It's so well insulated and apparently the element is so efficient once it overshoots it'll take 10-15 minutes to cool back down to 200° then it will maintain that temp until it's time to open the door. Once I do, the +25° overshoot cycle happens again. Any PID parameters to help control this overshoot?
@@Acribus1 I did play with settings I found in some other pages. This helped a lot. I also had a lot of flickering and flashing of my patio lights which were in the same circuit with the suggested settings from this page. Whatever I changed definitely reducted the on/off frequency so the flickering is less annoying and the temp doesn't overshoot initially by 20°. Next time I get it out I will look at what they are and send a reply.
Hi guy's, I'm new to this and have put together inkbird ITC-100 I wish I bought the 106 as George programmed and having issues understanding how to program the 100. If anyone can point me in the right direction I would be very much appreciate the time taken, thanks
My ink bird 107vh was working fine but is now stuck on and will not stop sending power to my heating element. The red light doesn’t show on or off anymore
So after 2 hours of trying to understand the terminology of the "manual" I googled for instructions and this wonderful video showed up, i really hope that Ink bird pays you for each person who uses this video for the setup.
Thank you very much
This video is amazing! Made it so easy. The whole series made this painless and fun.
Totally agree!
I just finished my 20 gallon 220 30 amp from a dryer plug. Thank you George without these videos I never would have figured it out👍👍
Glad to help
Thank You So Much George! All I needed was one simple explanation (out of this maze - which the manual did not provide) but *You did* awesome sir.
I am using ITC-100 as my temperature controller, I've connected a washing machine heating element to the RC as my heating source which I am using to warm up a body of water in a metal container in which a bucket of solidified honey is sitting. The crucial piece I was missing was to set the 'run' function to *Automatic* Bingo!!
Your Clarity of explanation is Top Notch! Thanks Again George!🙏
hello from Puerto Rico im so thankful for this kind of masterclass you bring to us waoo so helpful god bless you man
By far the absolute best video on PID setup. I use a PID in my temp controlled forge for knife making and this was the video that helped me understand everything in order to set it up properly!
Incredibly helpful. Thank you for explaining the context of the settings on each "page" of the book! Well done.
George. Happy distilling. I just wanted to say you vids are still helping. And I hope you are having a happy life.
Just finished building my PID last night and I did a test run with water in my still. Amazing to watch it work. Looking forward to running my rum wash later this week using the PID controller. Thanks for all of your help George!
Built and programmed controller as per your instructions. IT WORKS GREAT. Thanks for your instructions. I also used a glass with a lot of ice and little water, let it sit for 15 minutes, inserted my probe and it read 32.5 degrees F.. I also checked the upper limit with boiling water, as you suggested. Thanks again.
Thanks George completed my PID today with alot of your help much appreciated 🙏
Wow. This was phenomenal, and so instructive. Thank you!
Thank you. This was very useful and easy to understand. Was looking for the PID setting from burning out my mechanical high power relay and accessing buffer setting. For commercial kitchen water boiler replacing analog thermostat.
Thank you for doing this. I build an oven for heat treating steel. It will operate around 1550 degrees F. Now all I have to do is figure out this controller and what you have put out here I hope will get rid of my head ache, lol.
Awesome tutorial, but i have a 100VL which has a different menu/settings/ and symbols.
Some of the menu system is similar which was a huge help in figuring out at least half of my controller.
Incredibly well done instructions! Thank you. Could you elaborate on how to use the Autotune setting? You skipped over it to use PID instead of AT. My heat treat oven needs a little finer control than the settings that you suggested.
So very helpful as always. Thank you for taking the time to do these fantastic video's Cheers from Scotland :)
You actually managed to help me understand the basics of PID. Well done!
Finished my first PID assembly and settings/parameters setup; it's working great! For the settings, I watched your video, and marked on the instruction sheet what settings you use or underlined what the settings should be. At least that way I have a hard copy of what I want if I mess something up later. You made this easy. Finding the parts, cutting, layout, everything you need is in your videos. It doesn't matter to me how long your videos are, you make it so anyone can understand what needs to be done, and how to do it - at least one way to do it easily. Don't let the nay-sayers get you down. Happy distilling!
Still relevant and useful, thanks for all the help George.
Thank you for this video. I used it to get up and running. I have one thing that I'd like to do. I'm using the inkbird to operate a water pump on my heating system. I would like to turn the pump on when the water gets to 130 degrees F and shut off at 150 degrees. I'm operating in on/Off mode. I tried to set the P value but it didn't seem to work.
Can someone explain how the inkbird manual mode works. Thanks
Hi George, I just built my first PID controller with the help of your videos, and it's working great. Thanks so much for the great content!
Thanks George for all the videos and information.
Great VIdeo. I wish I someone like you to go through the settings on my VFD now.
Brilliant thank you, this helped me setup my Inkbird IPB 16-S which is effectively the same PID I guess, best instructional Inkbird video on the internet by far.
Great video! Thank you for hat you do! I just finished my PID. Is there a way to factory reset the settings and start over again? My PID’s light isn’t blinking when it gets close to temp. Also, I’m using mine for a smoker if that makes any difference. Thank you in advance!
Thanks George, I haven't used mine in a while and I can't find the manual. Once again you are a great help
That was a great presentation. Thank you!!
Easy, straightforward explanation of what is for me, a sometimes confusing topic. Thanks George...
Hey George, Great video. My question is for controlling an electric smoker. The PID settings of 1-540-200 work but because the heating element stays hot longer when powered down and takes longer to heat when energized, the range is still around 20 degrees. Can you recommend setting to help tweak this range a bit tighter? Which setting should I play with (P, I, D) to experiment with for a closer range. Thanks so much for your information and lessons in layman's terms.
Thank You. You explain everything clearly so it makes following along easy & stress free! Much Appreciate!!
I think I'm having a problem with my inkbird pid unit. I wired it correctly, installed it in my electric smoker, set the parameters as you described. At first it seemed to be working great. I set the temp at 120, It came up to temp and held there within a couple degrees plus minus. I placed my summer sausage in the smoker for an hr, turned the set temp up to 160 and it never read above 130 actual temp, but the sausage came up to 160?? Do I need to calibrate the thermocouple? Please help!
What an amazing video! Very easy and informative, thank you so much for your work!
I wanted a better controller for my smoker. I looked into a PID controller but was overwhelmed by the complexity. Once I found your channel and heard your explanation of a PID, I ordered an Inkbird controller and set it up. You took the fear out of the whole process. The company should have you write the instruction page. You provide a great service. Thanks for all you do! Jeff
Awesome series of videos. Thank you. There is a setting that may have an obvious answer but not to me. Hit the set button once an a100 display appears. The number is adjustable from 0-100 and I assume that it is a power adjustment but am not sure. Can you clear up what the function of this setting is.
Tia.
Your video on how to wire, and this video made for a seamless install and set up. Thank you!
George, this is an awesome video but do you have one on setting up the Inkbird 100 PID?
dude, you are an unsung HERO!!!!!!!!!!!!, thanks
Hi, Great video. Just got one of these to retrofit on my Rancillio Silvia espresso machine. It's working Ok but trying to tune up the PID values better. The autotune function works but I think I can get it much better as I tune PID controllers at work in a chemical plant. My question is: What are the units for P, I and D on these? For example, is I seconds, 1/sec, etc. The manual doesn't say.
Did you ever get an answer? I need to know as well, I and D are in seconds, what unit is P? thx
I literally just received my inkbird in the mail 2 days ago. Perfect timing!
Wow! You are a perfect teacher! Thanks a lot!
Watching this before work and I'm excited to get home to finally program the PID & have it working as it can!
Yes, excited to get into the PID lol.
You’ve been instrumental in getting my first PID set up. Thank you so much. Is this available in a print version?
Thanks so much for this excellent walk through. Helped me tremendously!
How do you use the factory reset setting
Thanks for this walkthrough. I installed this PID on my single boiler espresso machine with a desired temperature around 98c. Can I use your proposed settings of P:1, I: 540, d: 200. Because I have heard from other espresso PID users advised that values should be around the following: P: 15-25, I:10-40 and D: 1-3 (near to zero). I am interested in the differences in configuration. A am curious to hear your vision. Currently (Ctl:4, P:18, I:35, D:8) the machine overshoots 16c and undershoots 6c. Thanks for advice
I'm using this controller cooling. is there a way to lengthen the cycle time or loop ? the blower motor on my chiller keeps cycling on and off. Any help you might provide would be greatly appreciated.
Great video. I am wondering do I need a special contactor. The one I used is just a typical contactor. 240v but when it gets to 3 degrees of set point it cycles on and off which I'm afraid will burn the contactor prematurely. Any help is appreciated
I have rechecked all my parameters, still my control high and low runs from 15 to 20 degrees above and below my set temp! Could it be my k probe! It on my powder coat oven I built.
I’ve been looking for this video!! Thanks George. Happy Distilling!
Could I get more information on lowering the power output using the "output setting-Operation mode" on the Inkbird 106VH?
Thank you for this video. I’ve got one of these on an injection moulding machine and for some reason I can’t change the set value. it just has a decimal place the blinks on the right hand side when you press the up and down keys. So I’m hoping some of your guidance on the menus will help me resolve this issue.
I set up the parameters exactly this way but my boil stops and temp is not held. It probably has about a three degree swing, when Im over sp power turns off as it should bit boiling stops at that point as well. Power kicks back on about 2.5° under sp, boiling starts again and this is the loop.... Heeeelp
George on my inkbird itc106vh on the ALP set the DF will not stay at 1 it goes back to 0.3 do you know why
Same issue. Did you figure it out?
@@dutchhungry no not yet
Same issue here.
Make sure you hold down set until it goes back to the home page and then it will change the number
Hi George, I have watched your clip and I enjoyed your way of presenting the PID set up details. I am just in the beginning, but what I am interested is the "ramp an soak" set up by use of a PID controller. So, could the 106V controller be used for a ramp and soak controlling of a ceramic kiln?
Is hysteris the setting for the degrees in temp between on and off? For example, if I want a 5 degree high/low swing from my set temp, do I set hysteris to 5?
Would you possibly be willing to outline the specific settings you use and recommend for beer brewing using a RIMS tube type recirc mash? I’m having issues with overshoot and have tried multiple times to auto tune. TIA.
I bought a PID controller from you George. I just went through the video again and set all perimeters to what you said. My controller always fluctuates about 7-10 degrees up and down during a run. Not understanding why. My D is set at 200. Any advice would be helpful. I also have to change the df to 0.1 each time. Have a great day
Hey George big fan thank you for your insights. I need your help after following you on this vid my PID inkbird is still not working. I have the same volt display as you do on this vid and it reads 244v and 12 amps my pid shows only 100% power at the start then tapers off when my SV is reached but the iout put light on the PID is on the power is at 0% but my volt meter is showing 11 amp and 245v and if i understand my burner is still getting power as my volt meters round thingy has only one wire from my burner going through it. so how do i get this PID to turn off the power if its saying 0% ? please help
I've got this PID controller wired up to 2-40 watt ceramic heat bulbs for my home made incubator. I used your settings here. The controller is over shooting and undershooting 2 degrees from set temp of 99.5 fereinheight. Is there a way to fine tune this more? Thanks for the video!!
How do you get it to remember the set value. When power-cycled mine always goes back to the default of 122F (same as yours in the vid). Other PIDs I've used have remembered the last set value when power cycled.
Great information in the video!
How do I run this PID but use it only when the RUN is manually turned in?
George, do these settings work for the 110 volt heater element
OK, but where in the PID do you go to set the temperature you want to maintain ?
George can I get a digital copy of the white board ? Thank You
Beautifully explained. Thanks
Awesome video! I have one question. Is there any need to run the "At" or self tune under the oP menu?
my screen on the bottom jumps to the 600 degrees then down to 38 degrees then shows oral and keeps switching numbers. it’s on my heat press and the bottom plate isn’t heating up. any help would be greatly appreciated!
We have the inkbird 106rh operating Asco valves on our brewstand for brewing beer. We are using the on/off feature so as not to have the propane going on and off so frequently. The problem we are having is the lag of reading and displaying temp. Is there any way to remove the lag on what it is reading on a K type probe?
Do you still help folks out with trouble shooting??? My oven turns on and goes... Doesn't stop no matter where I set my set temp at.
Does the mypin have the option somewhere for manual mode to set the percentage of power that goes to the elements or is that only available on the inkbird.
Hey there, I loved the video, it was very helpful. But I have a small issue right now.
I am building a small kiln, I have got everything set up, I am using a SSR and Kenthal coils as a heat source. I connected a door switch and It all turned up grate. I programmed my controller exactly like you showed in the video but when I turned it on the display shows some strange things (the “ALM” and “RUN” LEDs turns on and off as long as the “OUT” LED) and the voltage on the coils runs on 220V for a sec and then goes to 0V for like 6 sec, and the temperature is far from the wanted temperature.
I have no idea what to do and I will love some help.
Thanx a lot
Very Nice channel. Thank you George.
On mine i can change my df to 1 but it doesen't save. Any tips?
I set my PID controller exactly has you said and it works great. Thank you! Now I did all you that you said, but I do not understand why these values are to be what they are. It would be very enlightening if you explain this a bit more. Your explanation was great, thank you again.
Great video -lots of needed detail! I built as similar one and am doing a dry run on it now on an electric smoker. I set it up per your recommendations. I also went ahead and calibrated it to 212F by putting the probe into boiling water and adjusting the calibration display until it matched. For the trial, the target temperature is set to 130F. Reportedly this unit is accurate to +/- 1F. The best I can get it to the 130F target is +/- 7F. (Actually it's +14/-0) To get this I set it 7 degrees under the target (123F) so it runts 123-137F based on a very accurate thermometer. With a smoker, has anybody had better luck due to it turning the element on at the target temperature, shutting off, and the heat continues to carry over and overshooting? Granted, it's WAY more accurate than the controller that came with it but would like to get closer to the stated specs. Any Suggestions?
Can i please get a printout of what you wrote in the whiteboard?
Thank you !!! This was a Huge help and put very well together.
Great instructional video. I'm having a problem tho. My temperature goes down when it gets hotter. Did I wire or program something wrong?
You have the probe wires backwards. They are polarity specific. If you connect it backwards it reads backwards. Switch the red and black wires.
Thanks George I just finished my PID build will be using it soon thanks my friend for great info Cheers!!!
My InkBird 106VH controller seemed to work fine, but when the OUT light turned off, as it should have at the desired temp, the relay stayed open and my heater stayed on, almost killing all my fish in my pond. I found in OP settings it was set to manual inhibit, instead of auto. I HOPE this will solve the problem. If not, what could it be?
can I test the still with just water? plugged it in put water in the kettle and set the PID for 100F. the kettle gets to 200 or a little more but the 2" reflux still never gets past 74 or 75. concerning to me. I have always ran this same still on Propane without any issues, but that was always with a Mash or sugar wash. not with just water. Any advice?
Hi George,Iam in the process of building one and this explanation is very useful,but I missed how set point is enter.Thanks
Likely doesn’t apply to those fine Texas types...but would setting the offset to compensate for altitude adjustment be worthwhile?
First off, GREAT VIDEOS!!!
I purchased this PID for my espresso machine, so i‘ll be using this for a heat PID. I wanted to verify the accuracy of the temperature of the PID and thermocouple combination.Would I use a boiling hot bath or ice water bath to adjust my calibration offset?Thanks for your time!!!
I used both ice water and boiling water to check my system. I used a lot of ice and a little water, let it sit for 15 minutes to stabilize, inserted the probe and it read 32.5 degrees F.. On the boiling water test I previously had set my Calibration Offset (SC) to +4 degrees. As a reminder, check your altitude to determine water boiling point.
I have this one also on my epsresso machine but on recovery it overshoots 20c. How did you configured the PID values?
Hi George,
I currently run a Rex PID that's okay but it has it's limitations, I think I would like to upgrade it to a 106VH, however I can't seem to find this information anywhere, does it have a time control setting on this unit as our steriliser runs for 14 hours when it reaches temperature, that can cause many inconveniences. Ta, Ian
This was excellant good for the InkBird...can you do this with the MyPin TA-4? It would be nice...I thank you.
Will the 106vh 240 volt run a 3600 watt element with a large heatsink installed George. Cheers mate
What is the significance of having your integral at 540
Can you wire up two 40amp SSR’s to one PID controller. I want run four burners two off one SSR and two off another for my powder coating oven
I listened to your video on how to set up the Inkbird PID. Initially everything looked fine. I changed the factory set parameters to what you had suggested. Went back to the initial screen and the PV value reads 528 instead of 20. I am using a K TC, pulled one lead off the PID and put it back on but it is still reading 528 and it appears to fluctuate as if it is sensing temperature. But the TC is sitting on the bench. Is there a factory setting I changed that caused this problem?
Auto-Tune? Im setting up a 1800w countertop commercial Pizza oven im modding for PID .. its working but ive not used inkbird but now I boughgt one since they seem to get good reviews ! i have a few fancier programmable PIDs of different brand I dont need for this.. just want to control temps and get em there quickly as i can and stable for baking things
So if there’s no light on the OUT1 is there a problem with the relay or the PID?
I would like to know this
@@SkyShupe I got really fed up with PID’s. Now I use a potentiometer type of controller to adjust the amount of power going to the coil instead of a temperature probe. Once the system balanced I don’t have to keep constantly adjusting the temperature. Mine runs perfectly at 75% through the whole run.
Hi George, I need to have my set value at 680F and i need it to be precised, does that change any parameter? Thanks.
What do you do if the pid is not saving my savings
Absolutely incredible and informative. I just built my PID for my BBQ smoker element. It works great! One question - the smoker cabinet is so well insulated it overshoots my SV of 200° by +25° initially. It's so well insulated and apparently the element is so efficient once it overshoots it'll take 10-15 minutes to cool back down to 200° then it will maintain that temp until it's time to open the door. Once I do, the +25° overshoot cycle happens again. Any PID parameters to help control this overshoot?
I have the same thing happening to mine. Did you figure it out?
@@Acribus1 I did play with settings I found in some other pages. This helped a lot. I also had a lot of flickering and flashing of my patio lights which were in the same circuit with the suggested settings from this page. Whatever I changed definitely reducted the on/off frequency so the flickering is less annoying and the temp doesn't overshoot initially by 20°. Next time I get it out I will look at what they are and send a reply.
@@JodiandRich Thank you :) I appreciate it.
Hi guy's, I'm new to this and have put together inkbird ITC-100 I wish I bought the 106 as George programmed and having issues understanding how to program the 100.
If anyone can point me in the right direction I would be very much appreciate the time taken, thanks
I did not see how to adjust the SV for the temp. Can you show an example?
My ink bird 107vh was working fine but is now stuck on and will not stop sending power to my heating element. The red light doesn’t show on or off anymore