The sotac items are of a good quality, I have some flashlights and laser boxes and they are extremely functional, good choice. Greetings from Mexico and thanks for sharing the video.
i had the same issue with my M ax mount replica . my M600 head wouldnt thread on and then i bought a 300 c i think and that didnt work then i saw it was only compatible with 300v, a and b i think i know it was v and b for sure but not positive if a was in there, once i got the 300V it worked perfectly and threads on perfectly, Your right icant even justify spending over 200 on a piece of aluminum when you can get a replica that is literally just as good. ive ran it for the last 9 months pretty hard and havent had a single issue. Someone below said the ball joint will wear from metal on metal contact and the screws wont hold for long periods of time. I threw a dash of gun oil in the ball joint to prevent any wear, and used blue loctite on the screws and adjusted til it was right where i wanted it. i havent had to adjust it since and it feels the exact same as when i assembled it.
I got ahold of 2 of those ma-x mount replicas and was incredibly disappointed in them. They are not designed well and I bought them to see if the real one would be worth it. The issue is (at least with the replicas) is you have low quality aluminum half circles clamping around another metal ball joint. First, it's hard to get the proper torque on the two halves clamped around the ball joint to keep it stable and not move around when you wiggle the helmet, additionally whatever torque your able to achieve loosens over time because you have metal clamped on metal and simply moving the ball joint reduces that pressure as the metal of the ball joint and clamping metal wears down. Second because the quality of aluminum that clamps around the ball joint is low quality, and the tapped holes aren't deep enough and the screws you tighten aren't long enough, it's easy to strip out the threads by over torquing (I did it to both the mounts i had) I'm in the process of drilling out the screw holes in the base larger for a stronger screw and being able to add a nut (and longer screw) to be able to properly clamp down on the ball join tight enough. Another issue is the ball joint is attached to the light body arm with a small set screw which isn't very good and loosened by just moving the arm around. I tried loctiting it and applying enough torque to keep it firm but it hasn't improved and eventually became loose. Best of luck though, from a mechanical design standpoint I'm glad I picked these up because I can't imagine the real s&s precision body would work any better. Ball joints provide the greatest degree of freedom/motion but are the weakest joint design.
Mark, I'd love to see some sort of updated airsoft belt situation. I knew you bought a TMC holster. Would love to see some updates on it and how you're running everything.
Hi i've got the same mount from alieexpres, so only correct ale head and the presure from sf scout M300B? I only se on alie sotac flashlight, can you link, or something to correct flashlight to compare with this mount ☺️ its hard to find nowadays
Is it me or is the color far off? From the pics I’m seeing of the real ones, the color has more of a matte finish while the Chinese ones are more shiny… any input would help
post more pls😢
The sotac items are of a good quality, I have some flashlights and laser boxes and they are extremely functional, good choice.
Greetings from Mexico and thanks for sharing the video.
i had the same issue with my M ax mount replica . my M600 head wouldnt thread on and then i bought a 300 c i think and that didnt work then i saw it was only compatible with 300v, a and b i think i know it was v and b for sure but not positive if a was in there, once i got the 300V it worked perfectly and threads on perfectly, Your right icant even justify spending over 200 on a piece of aluminum when you can get a replica that is literally just as good. ive ran it for the last 9 months pretty hard and havent had a single issue. Someone below said the ball joint will wear from metal on metal contact and the screws wont hold for long periods of time. I threw a dash of gun oil in the ball joint to prevent any wear, and used blue loctite on the screws and adjusted til it was right where i wanted it. i havent had to adjust it since and it feels the exact same as when i assembled it.
I got ahold of 2 of those ma-x mount replicas and was incredibly disappointed in them. They are not designed well and I bought them to see if the real one would be worth it. The issue is (at least with the replicas) is you have low quality aluminum half circles clamping around another metal ball joint. First, it's hard to get the proper torque on the two halves clamped around the ball joint to keep it stable and not move around when you wiggle the helmet, additionally whatever torque your able to achieve loosens over time because you have metal clamped on metal and simply moving the ball joint reduces that pressure as the metal of the ball joint and clamping metal wears down. Second because the quality of aluminum that clamps around the ball joint is low quality, and the tapped holes aren't deep enough and the screws you tighten aren't long enough, it's easy to strip out the threads by over torquing (I did it to both the mounts i had)
I'm in the process of drilling out the screw holes in the base larger for a stronger screw and being able to add a nut (and longer screw) to be able to properly clamp down on the ball join tight enough.
Another issue is the ball joint is attached to the light body arm with a small set screw which isn't very good and loosened by just moving the arm around. I tried loctiting it and applying enough torque to keep it firm but it hasn't improved and eventually became loose.
Best of luck though, from a mechanical design standpoint I'm glad I picked these up because I can't imagine the real s&s precision body would work any better. Ball joints provide the greatest degree of freedom/motion but are the weakest joint design.
Yeah, main reason I wanted to test a replica first. Design does not seem to be the best.
@@ExtraordinaireThe had the same issue, if you tighten it too much it'll ruin the thread, I got a new one and used blue lock tight works fantastically
Mark, I'd love to see some sort of updated airsoft belt situation. I knew you bought a TMC holster. Would love to see some updates on it and how you're running everything.
does the Surefire m300v clone give off a faint red glow when you have it in IR mode?
Hi i've got the same mount from alieexpres, so only correct ale head and the presure from sf scout M300B? I only se on alie sotac flashlight, can you link, or something to correct flashlight to compare with this mount ☺️ its hard to find nowadays
Got the same issue with my M300v sotac but it's the tail cap that don't fit very well
Is it me or is the color far off? From the pics I’m seeing of the real ones, the color has more of a matte finish while the Chinese ones are more shiny… any input would help
Can you post links of the items that fit ?
I had a question about your belt setup, dos the 63do fit on a safariland qls?
Yeah, it comes with a QLS set up.
@@ExtraordinaireThe oh alright! Thank you
Also I had 1 more question, your pistol and msg pouches for your overlord belt, is it a 2 in 1? Like are they connect together or are they separate?
The pistol pouch is the dual. Rifle pouch is single.
@@ExtraordinaireThe oh aright! Thanks, also love the content, keep it up!
Where did you get the replica S&S mount ? Thanks in advance man
AliExpress
Nice brah!
Did you ever get these to work?
Yeah, I got one working in this video.
Can you link me the one you ended up using
😱
bro get your self a good helmet
This is an airsoft channel.
Probably spent as much chasing for a clone 🫡
Not even close.
Mount was $13, these lights were around $60 for both.
The real mount alone is $154.