Hey, thank you! I'm not used to getting compliments on this video, lol! I do actually have a few ideas for the next time I do one of these that should make the whole thing a bit better.
Love the AC idea. I'm going to use it in a camper build myself. I have plans to elevate the unit and build it closer to the wall for the exhaust and make a little door to open whenever i need to use it. I was going to ask about the drain but reading your reply on the same question was good. Your channel is great! Thank you for taking the time to film it.
Thanks! I will point out that while it seems to work, I really haven't been able to give it a good workout because the weather cooled waaay off the week after I finished it, lol! But yeah, it'll work better mounted up higher for sure. I did give in and drill a drain hole in the floor, but I still question if it was necessary. Good luck and thanks for watching!
I have a Scotty and installed AC under the bed. AC is extremely sensitive to airflow, much more than you'd think. Exhaust must be wide open, as large as the back of the unit. We have to keep the hatch open and have a small fan pulling in air, blowing toward the unit. It cools well though. I also recommend one with electronic controls. Ours has a remote and it turns on periodically to test the air temp and shuts off if cool enough. Having these running all night long is really noisy in this small space.
You know I really haven't even had the opportunity to try this out since I finished installing it. I went camping a week or two after finishing it and the overnight temperature had dropped to something like 22⁰F, so I wound up using my new power outlet for a space heater instead!
I did this to my 65 Shasta. It was under the Goucho bed. I would put a small fan under the dinette table and point it to the ceiling. It would circulate the cold air up and make it a lot better.
That's the way to do it if you've got a low mounted AC! They sell a little fan at Target called a Wozoo that has oscillation and elevation, and it's actually pretty quiet. I highly recommend it! You can also get it a bit cheaper at Costco.
You will find that an exaust fan will help a lot. Just a little box fan the size of the rear opening will do. Also you will want to put some 1/4 inch wire screen underneath to keep critters from trying to get up in there.
Great suggestions! I had kinda thought about adding an exhaust fan and getting all complicated with it, but a box fan sounds like a practical solution. We had an inline fan with ducting in our camper with the darkroom to provide positive pressure in the back and to pipe in fresh/cooler air. I'm gonna go back and install a drain line on the A/C now that I know it works so I'll upgrade the mesh when I do that. Thanks!
I checked in with the current owners of this camper recently and they haven't had any trouble with condensation, but I think perhaps the "cookie sheet" is maybe a worthwhile suggestion for the future.
So now that has been a year or so, how has it been? Do you have a problem with the water draining? I didn’t see you address that and I’m not sure if you got one of those “dripless trays“ where it sits and the compressor dries it up
This AC unit is one of the dripless types, but I actually sold the camper before I really had a chance to use it much. I checked in with its current owners recently, and their only complaint was that when parked in full sun it was a bit too small of a unit to keep the camper cool, but otherwise it worked great with a fan on the floor to help circulate the air. They haven't had any issues with condensation either.
@@TrailerTrashtoTreasure A few improvements that would make the AC more efficient. This unit has singular motor to run both condenser (axial) and evaporator (centrifugal) fans blades. The condenser blades suck air in from the sides and pushes it out from the back. If you open up the hole big and wide enough, the AC will condense better. On the evaporator side with how you have set up, the AC circulation zone will be barely 2 to 3 feet so the it will feel cold toward where the AC is although the rest of the camper will be hot. Cold air will come out the fins, drops down as cold air sinks, and will get sucked right back in from the return side. The AC's thermostat will think it's cold enough and shut off the compressor. If you install the AC high enough, the cold air will drop to the bottom and you will not have this issue. Alternatively, you could duct the cold air to various sections of the camper. I installed my AC underneath the van and had to run ducted returns to better distribute the conditioned air.
Great video! Thank you! I was trying to figure out how to install a window a/c by opening the floor rather than a window. you helped me immensely. I appreciate it.
I like your attitude. "I don't care, it's my camper.". That's how it should be. We all make mistakes and that's how we learn. I am curious though. Since a year has gone by has there been any issues with the AC being somewhat enclosed. Any overheating issues, cooling issues etc,? I don't know enough about window AC's to know how it differs from wide open space. Just curious about any input you might have since this time has passed. Thanks for sharing your build.
Ha ha, well thanks! Unfortunately it's not my camper anymore, but I have followed up with the new owners and the only issue they've had is that it's not quite powerful enough on the hottest days when the camper's sitting in the sun. There's some things I'll be doing differently on the next one. They should really be placed higher up in the interior of the camper so that the air can mix naturally without the need for an extra fan on the floor. And instead of taking in air under the floor I'll draw it in through the roof and exit it directly out of the side of the camper. I'll probably also try to go with a slightly larger unit; that one was 5000 BTU and it would've been fine in a home with a small room, but campers aren't insulated like a home. Now if you have the budget, I recently saw one of these: www.pioneerminisplit.com/products/pioneer-9-000-btu-under-bench-rv-heat-pump-air-conditioner and I think that'd be ideal for a vintage camper build.
Looking good. You won't know yourselves next time you camp in the heat. You'll be nice and cool. Our little caravan is 15 foot and has an airconditioner about the same size as yours and it cools that space really nicely in the heat. Thankfully here in South Australia it isn't generally a humid heat but it definitely gets hot, many days over the 100F during Summer so it's nice to be able to sleep well at night when camping.
We'll see, we're thinking of taking it out soon, but we're actually getting a bit of a break from the heat so I might not even really need it at night.
Your channel is great. I'm surprised you don't have more subscribers. Any chance you aren't including enough key words like reno, rehab, DIY, problem solving, design, how-to, tools, repairs, construction......you do it all.
Thanks for saying that! I actually think it's been growing pretty well. I meant to mention when we got 5000 subscribers, but by the time I got to it we were already almost to 5200!
Hi I and doing something similar just wanted to see how is the foam insulation holding up for the vent duct , looks a lot easier to do it using that that what I was planning to use on my, I will probably prefer to do it like yours instead of sheet metal , if you could tell me if the material is good and holding up the heat and everything ok, I will do the same thanks
I actually sold that camper recently and I never really had much opportunity to use the A/C as I mostly did cold weather camping. It worked fine the few times I used it, and I can't think of any reason it wouldn't hold up long term.
Very cool idea The only question I have is what did you do with the condensation under the unit. I know mine puts out over roughly 5 gallons a day What keeps it from leaking all over the floor. Thanks great job
If you read the owners manual for most of these newer units you'll find that they're designed to evaporate the condensate to improve efficiency. There is a drain plug, but the manual specifically recommends against opening it. That said, I did open it and drain it through the floor.
@@TrailerTrashtoTreasure Yes I am redoing an 1975 airstream land yacht And it’s kicking my butt lol But getting ready to close the walls up Can’t wait to get it done.
These newer AC units aren't designed to drain. They use the condensate by throwing it onto the condenser coil to evaporate it and get higher efficiency, but I did drill a hole in the floor for it to drain out. The manual specifically recommends against it though. For a drip pan I've seen some people use a baking pan with a hole, a hose barb, and a tube.
Newer AC units like these aren't supposed to be drained. They evaporate the condensate to increase their efficiency. That said, I did add a drain line later for peace of mind, even though the instructions specifically recommended against doing so.
Newer AC units like these aren't supposed to be drained. They evaporate the condensate to increase their efficiency. That said, I did add a drain line later for peace of mind, even though the instructions specifically recommended against doing so.
@@TrailerTrashtoTreasure Monitor it closely. I do a little RV repair and during Covid and the supply shortage a lot of manufacturers went to window units on small campers. Just came from one that leaked and rotted out the whole wall and even dripped on the bed. I’m currently installing mine in my home built RV.
These AC units are designed so that they tilt naturally when resting on a flat surface so that condensation collects where it can kick it up on the coils and increase its efficiency. That being said, although the manufacturer specifically recommends against it, I opened the drain port to allow it to drain through the floor.
I suppose he's not going to do anything with it since these newer AC units evaporate the condensate to increase their efficiency, and the manual specifically recommends against opening the drain plug. Thanks for watching!
Whats the verdict after what 9 months of use? I have a 66 playmor and trting to figure which way to put ac in as well. Mine is a usable camper and not a show piece.
Well, I actually sold that camper and I only ever used it once, but it worked well that one time! I'm thinking about installing one in our Cal-Craft when I get back to it, but I think I'd install it high up on the street side wall and exhaust it straight out of the side with the intake air coming through the roof like I see on a lot of newer teardrop campers. It'd probably work a bit more efficiently that way, and I wouldn't lose a bunch of storage.
I use the browser based free version of SketchUp, and I made a video about it here: ruclips.net/video/HPl3DprhscQ/видео.html You can undercoat your camper if you like, but there's a likelihood that anything you coat it with could prevent the wood from drying out naturally when it inevitably does get wet. I don't generally undercoat my campers and it's never been an issue. Typically what rots the floors in these campers are leaky windows and vents, not road spray.
I’ve enjoyed watching both videos on the a/c install. Are you concerned at all about water splashing up into the intake hole while traveling in the rain? We’re headed to Branson this week for the vintage trailer rally. It’s our first rally and our first trip in the ‘69 Gold Star since I finished the rebuild. Wish us luck….No a/c. Just a tower evap cooler which I’m sure works better in dry Colorado than humid Missouri!
I'm not really. If you look at where you get water splashed up it's almost entirely behind the tires and not to the sides, but I am thinking of adding some sort of closure to the intake at some point. Good luck on your trip! We were just in Branson a few weeks ago for a little family getaway, and it was unseasonably cool when we were there.
I don't actually own this camper any more, but I followed up with the current owners a few months back and they said that they hadn't had any trouble with moisture. They did say it maybe wasn't quite large enough for the times when the camper was parked in full sun, and that a fan on the floor circulating the air is a big help.
I did not. Now I know lots of folks will say you need to undercoat the wood to protect it from road spray, but that same undercoating will actually prevent wood from naturally drying out if/when it does get wet. Also if you go and drive through a rainstorm and get down there and look at the parts that get wet, it's almost entirely just the areas behind the wheels, and mud flaps would protect the underside far better than any coating.
I did add a drain line, but if you read the owners manual it specifically recommends against opening the drain as the design is intended to fling the condensate onto the coils to provide additional cooling. In my test of the unit so far, I could feel moisture at the drain hole, but it wasn't enough to ever actually drip.
The ac's now days do not drip (I am not fully covinced) but I put a partner mine just in case, I put my box through the cargo hold to exit the flow of air. Mine is also under the bed.
If you read the owners manual for most of these newer units you'll find that they're designed to evaporate the condensate to improve efficiency. There is a drain plug, but the manual specifically recommends against opening it. That said, I did open it and drain it through the floor.
I mean, it COULD be removed, but it's kind of a pain to do it. These newer units are not supposed to have a drain, but there is a plugged port that you can open up to provide one. I kinda think I'm going to go back and open it up and run a line to it, but that might not make it into a video.
I’m messing with this in my trailer (25’Aljo). I have a good juice sucking AC on top, but I’m wanting to be able to go completely off grid, and still have a viable way to cool my trailer. So far I’m thinking it’s just not vented properly yet. I slid it into the microwave spot over my stove. So far the compressor would kick off within minutes of start up, I’m assuming it was getting too hot. So I cut another vent in the adjacent cabinet, ducted it into the ACs new cabinet, and added two small vent fans that real move the air. So the compressor runs much longer but still kicks off. At this point I’m assuming I need to isolate the mid-area vents so that the air will be pulled just through that area, and out the condenser. Be working on that tomorrow.
You need to have an exterior intake and an exterior exhaust. Those vent holes around the sides of the unit are meant to draw in exterior air to run over the condenser coil. The front of the unit has the interior intake running over the evaporator coil and the front exhaust where you get your cool air back into your room. You don't want interior air going over your condenser coil, so you don't want to draw air in from within the camper for that purpose. The easy thing to do with a unit mounted in an upper cabinet is to exhaust the condenser coil out the side of the camper and draw in the intake from the roof through some sort of roof vent. You actually see this a lot these days on smaller, less expensive, new campers. Good luck!
@@TrailerTrashtoTreasure I cut a hole in the back of the microwave hole and put a screened vent on it. Then I went into the cabinet beside it and cut a hole, to access it, and then a hole to the outside in that cabinet and screened it off. Made kind of a duct with some ply that isolated it to the microwave hole. But it’ll run for a while then I hear the compressor shut off. I figured I’d put in some baffles like you did to isolate the intake so that all that air goes through that and runs over the exhaust coil. Kind of concentrate it into that area.
Yeah, you want to also make sure you're getting plenty of airflow to the intake portion of the condenser, so try to cut down on any restrictions there.
These newer AC units aren't designed to drain. They use the condensate by throwing it onto the condenser coil to evaporate it and get higher efficiency, but I did drill a hole in the floor for it to drain out. The manual specifically recommends against it though.
So you believe the engineers when they told you that they did not need to be drained ? I can 100% promise you you will be addressing this issue very shortly because it is absolutely going to leak all over your floor. Please give us an update on your fix for the leaky water, thank you
What makes you think you disappointed me? I'm just stating a fact. that the air conditioner is 100% going to leak all over that floor no matter what you say. And no matter how many times you repeat that they are designed not to , you my friend are mistaken.
My friend, all I can do is report my experience with it, and I had no issues. I did go ahead and contact the current owners of the camper to see what their experience has been after their first season with it, and they reported no issues with condensation either.
I'm gonna have to watch what I say I guess, lol. Maybe I should say, "I do stupid things, 'cause I don't know any better." I don't know, I'll work on it.
Most contemporary window units are designed to evaporate any condensate and actually cool more effectively without draining it away. That said, there is a place for an optional drain plug on this unit, and I've been contemplating installing a drain line even though the manual specifically recommends against it.
I have no clue why people do this.. Just take a normal AC window unit. Separate the inside from outside. Add a a few feet more in compressor lines and wiring. Cover them back up using the old cover. Then you have a cheap mini split..... Takes about a day to make one...
That's an interesting thought, but I would think most units would require a tad more modification than just tubing and wiring; I suppose it could be made to work though, and I'd love to see one that's been done that way.
@@TrailerTrashtoTreasure Nope.. That is all you're doing with a Mini Split..Just longer refrigerant lines and some wires.. This does require you cut the lines. Add some valves. Extend them. Then pull a vacuum. Then add the right amount of Refrigerant back in plus 1oz extra for the extended lines.. Why you look for units that use R410a.. You can get that stuff anywhere...
@@TrailerTrashtoTreasure Look for one that does not have that sling blade on them.. As that is what they are for.. To sling the condensation on the rear coils.. As it captures the condensation in a tray... If you really want that brand. Then just add a fan to it. I seen people do that.. As they actually make fans to increase air across the coils... And remove the blade on the rear slinger shaft...
You mean louvered grill? It could work, I really didn't want to add any other restriction though, so I was thinking a more open sheet of what I think they usually call expanded steel, and then an extra sliding cover to keep out dirt and weather when I'm traveling. I've got a better idea for doing this in the future.
@@TrailerTrashtoTreasuresorry depending on which language my keyboard is set sometimes it try’s to auto correct it’s not 100% but yes that’s what I meant
😂It’s my camper, I’ll do what I want😂. That’s the spirit! Make it work for your needs. Always enjoy your videos and learn something!
Well thanks for following along! It's always easier to experiment on your own projects than others'.
As someone in the HVAC industry you did a great job, Thanks again
Hey, thank you! I'm not used to getting compliments on this video, lol!
I do actually have a few ideas for the next time I do one of these that should make the whole thing a bit better.
Love the AC idea. I'm going to use it in a camper build myself. I have plans to elevate the unit and build it closer to the wall for the exhaust and make a little door to open whenever i need to use it. I was going to ask about the drain but reading your reply on the same question was good. Your channel is great! Thank you for taking the time to film it.
Thanks! I will point out that while it seems to work, I really haven't been able to give it a good workout because the weather cooled waaay off the week after I finished it, lol! But yeah, it'll work better mounted up higher for sure. I did give in and drill a drain hole in the floor, but I still question if it was necessary. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Brilliant work. They’re not mistakes, they’re adjustments.
Well we're always adjusting over here. Thanks!
I have a Scotty and installed AC under the bed. AC is extremely sensitive to airflow, much more than you'd think. Exhaust must be wide open, as large as the back of the unit. We have to keep the hatch open and have a small fan pulling in air, blowing toward the unit. It cools well though.
I also recommend one with electronic controls. Ours has a remote and it turns on periodically to test the air temp and shuts off if cool enough. Having these running all night long is really noisy in this small space.
You know I really haven't even had the opportunity to try this out since I finished installing it. I went camping a week or two after finishing it and the overnight temperature had dropped to something like 22⁰F, so I wound up using my new power outlet for a space heater instead!
I also have a scotty and put mine under the bed. So far all good
It works pretty well if you have another fan somewhere to circulate the air.
I did this to my 65 Shasta. It was under the Goucho bed. I would put a small fan under the dinette table and point it to the ceiling. It would circulate the cold air up and make it a lot better.
That's the way to do it if you've got a low mounted AC! They sell a little fan at Target called a Wozoo that has oscillation and elevation, and it's actually pretty quiet. I highly recommend it! You can also get it a bit cheaper at Costco.
You will find that an exaust fan will help a lot. Just a little box fan the size of the rear opening will do. Also you will want to put some 1/4 inch wire screen underneath to keep critters from trying to get up in there.
Great suggestions! I had kinda thought about adding an exhaust fan and getting all complicated with it, but a box fan sounds like a practical solution. We had an inline fan with ducting in our camper with the darkroom to provide positive pressure in the back and to pipe in fresh/cooler air.
I'm gonna go back and install a drain line on the A/C now that I know it works so I'll upgrade the mesh when I do that.
Thanks!
A lot of small ac units now do not drip like they used to. They fling the water on the coil and evaporate it. A small cookie sheet may be enough.
@@AmandaHugenkiss2915 That's a great improvement.
I checked in with the current owners of this camper recently and they haven't had any trouble with condensation, but I think perhaps the "cookie sheet" is maybe a worthwhile suggestion for the future.
So now that has been a year or so, how has it been? Do you have a problem with the water draining? I didn’t see you address that and I’m not sure if you got one of those “dripless trays“ where it sits and the compressor dries it up
This AC unit is one of the dripless types, but I actually sold the camper before I really had a chance to use it much. I checked in with its current owners recently, and their only complaint was that when parked in full sun it was a bit too small of a unit to keep the camper cool, but otherwise it worked great with a fan on the floor to help circulate the air. They haven't had any issues with condensation either.
@@TrailerTrashtoTreasure A few improvements that would make the AC more efficient. This unit has singular motor to run both condenser (axial) and evaporator (centrifugal) fans blades. The condenser blades suck air in from the sides and pushes it out from the back. If you open up the hole big and wide enough, the AC will condense better. On the evaporator side with how you have set up, the AC circulation zone will be barely 2 to 3 feet so the it will feel cold toward where the AC is although the rest of the camper will be hot. Cold air will come out the fins, drops down as cold air sinks, and will get sucked right back in from the return side. The AC's thermostat will think it's cold enough and shut off the compressor. If you install the AC high enough, the cold air will drop to the bottom and you will not have this issue. Alternatively, you could duct the cold air to various sections of the camper. I installed my AC underneath the van and had to run ducted returns to better distribute the conditioned air.
Great video! Thank you! I was trying to figure out how to install a window a/c by opening the floor rather than a window. you helped me immensely. I appreciate it.
Well let me know how it turns out. I still haven't even had warm enough weather to really see how well this works!
@@TrailerTrashtoTreasure For sure. I'll let you know :)
I posted an update on the AC in my shorts. Turns out it works really well!
I like your attitude. "I don't care, it's my camper.". That's how it should be. We all make mistakes and that's how we learn.
I am curious though. Since a year has gone by has there been any issues with the AC being somewhat enclosed. Any overheating issues, cooling issues etc,? I don't know enough about window AC's to know how it differs from wide open space. Just curious about any input you might have since this time has passed. Thanks for sharing your build.
Ha ha, well thanks! Unfortunately it's not my camper anymore, but I have followed up with the new owners and the only issue they've had is that it's not quite powerful enough on the hottest days when the camper's sitting in the sun.
There's some things I'll be doing differently on the next one. They should really be placed higher up in the interior of the camper so that the air can mix naturally without the need for an extra fan on the floor. And instead of taking in air under the floor I'll draw it in through the roof and exit it directly out of the side of the camper. I'll probably also try to go with a slightly larger unit; that one was 5000 BTU and it would've been fine in a home with a small room, but campers aren't insulated like a home.
Now if you have the budget, I recently saw one of these:
www.pioneerminisplit.com/products/pioneer-9-000-btu-under-bench-rv-heat-pump-air-conditioner
and I think that'd be ideal for a vintage camper build.
Looking good. You won't know yourselves next time you camp in the heat. You'll be nice and cool. Our little caravan is 15 foot and has an airconditioner about the same size as yours and it cools that space really nicely in the heat. Thankfully here in South Australia it isn't generally a humid heat but it definitely gets hot, many days over the 100F during Summer so it's nice to be able to sleep well at night when camping.
We'll see, we're thinking of taking it out soon, but we're actually getting a bit of a break from the heat so I might not even really need it at night.
Your channel is great. I'm surprised you don't have more subscribers. Any chance you aren't including enough key words like reno, rehab, DIY, problem solving, design, how-to, tools, repairs, construction......you do it all.
Thanks for saying that! I actually think it's been growing pretty well. I meant to mention when we got 5000 subscribers, but by the time I got to it we were already almost to 5200!
You forgot #MistakeMaker
Good one!
Really like how you did it, thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Man U r so cool.I❤ that b cute trailer!! So classic great job on camper perfect colors & wheels 👍 👍💯
Thanks, I was really happy with how it turned out, and it helped me learn a lot that's going into the next camper!
Hi I and doing something similar just wanted to see how is the foam insulation holding up for the vent duct , looks a lot easier to do it using that that what I was planning to use on my, I will probably prefer to do it like yours instead of sheet metal , if you could tell me if the material is good and holding up the heat and everything ok, I will do the same thanks
I actually sold that camper recently and I never really had much opportunity to use the A/C as I mostly did cold weather camping. It worked fine the few times I used it, and I can't think of any reason it wouldn't hold up long term.
Very cool idea
The only question I have is what did you do with the condensation under the unit.
I know mine puts out over roughly 5 gallons a day
What keeps it from leaking all over the floor. Thanks great job
If you read the owners manual for most of these newer units you'll find that they're designed to evaporate the condensate to improve efficiency. There is a drain plug, but the manual specifically recommends against opening it. That said, I did open it and drain it through the floor.
@@TrailerTrashtoTreasure
O ok good to know thanks so much
Love the idea
Your welcome. I'm planning a slightly different install in the next camper, whenever I get back to it.
@@TrailerTrashtoTreasure
Yes I am redoing an 1975 airstream land yacht
And it’s kicking my butt lol
But getting ready to close the walls up
Can’t wait to get it done.
Yeah Airstream's are a whole different kind of project than canned hams. Good luck with it; it'll all be worth it in the end!
What about adding a drain pan? Just in case it leaks or if the angle of the trailer is not completely level.
You could add a drain pan if you wanted for added peace of mind. I did ultimately open up the drain plug and drill a hole through the floor for it.
Just the information I needed!! Fantastic!
Glad to help, hope it works out for you!
What about the condensation? I’m doing somthing similar but idk what to do for a drip rail?
These newer AC units aren't designed to drain. They use the condensate by throwing it onto the condenser coil to evaporate it and get higher efficiency, but I did drill a hole in the floor for it to drain out. The manual specifically recommends against it though.
For a drip pan I've seen some people use a baking pan with a hole, a hose barb, and a tube.
Where does the condensation go? I didn't see a drain.
Newer AC units like these aren't supposed to be drained. They evaporate the condensate to increase their efficiency. That said, I did add a drain line later for peace of mind, even though the instructions specifically recommended against doing so.
I didn’t catch any sort of drain pan? Gonna lead to major water issues if not drained properly
Newer AC units like these aren't supposed to be drained. They evaporate the condensate to increase their efficiency. That said, I did add a drain line later for peace of mind, even though the instructions specifically recommended against doing so.
@@TrailerTrashtoTreasure Monitor it closely. I do a little RV repair and during Covid and the supply shortage a lot of manufacturers went to window units on small campers. Just came from one that leaked and rotted out the whole wall and even dripped on the bed. I’m currently installing mine in my home built RV.
It hasn't been an issue so far, but I actually sold this camper to some folks down the street from me. Last I heard it was working great for them.
If you didn’t tilt that air conditioner for the condensation you’re gonna grow mold and also it’ll leak and rot your floor!!!
These AC units are designed so that they tilt naturally when resting on a flat surface so that condensation collects where it can kick it up on the coils and increase its efficiency. That being said, although the manufacturer specifically recommends against it, I opened the drain port to allow it to drain through the floor.
What is he going to do from the water that's going to come out of the AC is it supposed to rain right on the floor and make a big mess
I suppose he's not going to do anything with it since these newer AC units evaporate the condensate to increase their efficiency, and the manual specifically recommends against opening the drain plug. Thanks for watching!
Whats the verdict after what 9 months of use? I have a 66 playmor and trting to figure which way to put ac in as well. Mine is a usable camper and not a show piece.
Well, I actually sold that camper and I only ever used it once, but it worked well that one time! I'm thinking about installing one in our Cal-Craft when I get back to it, but I think I'd install it high up on the street side wall and exhaust it straight out of the side with the intake air coming through the roof like I see on a lot of newer teardrop campers. It'd probably work a bit more efficiently that way, and I wouldn't lose a bunch of storage.
@@TrailerTrashtoTreasure thanks for the reply and I have unused vents where something was before so I'll go that route as well.
No problem, good luck!
What about rain getting in the back hatch?
I was going to try and solve that by leaving the hatch partially open, but I never got around to it before I sold the camper.
What program did you use to make your model?
Should the floor have an under coating? I have to do a new floor that's why I ask. Ty
I use the browser based free version of SketchUp, and I made a video about it here:
ruclips.net/video/HPl3DprhscQ/видео.html
You can undercoat your camper if you like, but there's a likelihood that anything you coat it with could prevent the wood from drying out naturally when it inevitably does get wet. I don't generally undercoat my campers and it's never been an issue. Typically what rots the floors in these campers are leaky windows and vents, not road spray.
I’ve enjoyed watching both videos on the a/c install. Are you concerned at all about water splashing up into the intake hole while traveling in the rain?
We’re headed to Branson this week for the vintage trailer rally. It’s our first rally and our first trip in the ‘69 Gold Star since I finished the rebuild. Wish us luck….No a/c. Just a tower evap cooler which I’m sure works better in dry Colorado than humid Missouri!
I'm not really. If you look at where you get water splashed up it's almost entirely behind the tires and not to the sides, but I am thinking of adding some sort of closure to the intake at some point.
Good luck on your trip! We were just in Branson a few weeks ago for a little family getaway, and it was unseasonably cool when we were there.
How is the AC working out? Any mold/ mildew issues?
I don't actually own this camper any more, but I followed up with the current owners a few months back and they said that they hadn't had any trouble with moisture. They did say it maybe wasn't quite large enough for the times when the camper was parked in full sun, and that a fan on the floor circulating the air is a big help.
I have a pneumatic staple gun sitting in my closet brand new! Now I have reason to use yippee!!
They're really useful for all kinds of projects!
Did you paint the wood on the bottom of your camper?
I did not. Now I know lots of folks will say you need to undercoat the wood to protect it from road spray, but that same undercoating will actually prevent wood from naturally drying out if/when it does get wet. Also if you go and drive through a rainstorm and get down there and look at the parts that get wet, it's almost entirely just the areas behind the wheels, and mud flaps would protect the underside far better than any coating.
Dd you tilt it 3 degrees?
I don't know if it was three degrees, but it was the recommended amount in the owners manual.
What about the water that drips from the ac
I did add a drain line, but if you read the owners manual it specifically recommends against opening the drain as the design is intended to fling the condensate onto the coils to provide additional cooling. In my test of the unit so far, I could feel moisture at the drain hole, but it wasn't enough to ever actually drip.
The ac's now days do not drip (I am not fully covinced) but I put a partner mine just in case, I put my box through the cargo hold to exit the flow of air. Mine is also under the bed.
Yeah I really didn't ever run out very much, but I never noticed condensate dripping below it.
Where does the water goes
If you read the owners manual for most of these newer units you'll find that they're designed to evaporate the condensate to improve efficiency. There is a drain plug, but the manual specifically recommends against opening it. That said, I did open it and drain it through the floor.
I have a 1980 19ft motorhome how many btu you think I would need?
I'm not really an expert on AC units, but I think for that size they usually recommend about 10k BTU, give or take.
Ok thanks
Good luck.
will the unit be removeable? a condensation port? it looks like a great solution, good job.
I mean, it COULD be removed, but it's kind of a pain to do it. These newer units are not supposed to have a drain, but there is a plugged port that you can open up to provide one. I kinda think I'm going to go back and open it up and run a line to it, but that might not make it into a video.
@@TrailerTrashtoTreasure did you end up adding a drain?
@@Rockwell108 I did, yes.
I have air conditioner on roof but pour too much power so I put one in the window on my Camper and I love it My lights don't even freckle
The new ones are really pretty efficient, so it's a viable option for a small camper for sure!
I’m messing with this in my trailer (25’Aljo). I have a good juice sucking AC on top, but I’m wanting to be able to go completely off grid, and still have a viable way to cool my trailer. So far I’m thinking it’s just not vented properly yet. I slid it into the microwave spot over my stove. So far the compressor would kick off within minutes of start up, I’m assuming it was getting too hot. So I cut another vent in the adjacent cabinet, ducted it into the ACs new cabinet, and added two small vent fans that real move the air. So the compressor runs much longer but still kicks off. At this point I’m assuming I need to isolate the mid-area vents so that the air will be pulled just through that area, and out the condenser. Be working on that tomorrow.
You need to have an exterior intake and an exterior exhaust. Those vent holes around the sides of the unit are meant to draw in exterior air to run over the condenser coil. The front of the unit has the interior intake running over the evaporator coil and the front exhaust where you get your cool air back into your room. You don't want interior air going over your condenser coil, so you don't want to draw air in from within the camper for that purpose.
The easy thing to do with a unit mounted in an upper cabinet is to exhaust the condenser coil out the side of the camper and draw in the intake from the roof through some sort of roof vent. You actually see this a lot these days on smaller, less expensive, new campers.
Good luck!
@@TrailerTrashtoTreasure I cut a hole in the back of the microwave hole and put a screened vent on it. Then I went into the cabinet beside it and cut a hole, to access it, and then a hole to the outside in that cabinet and screened it off. Made kind of a duct with some ply that isolated it to the microwave hole. But it’ll run for a while then I hear the compressor shut off. I figured I’d put in some baffles like you did to isolate the intake so that all that air goes through that and runs over the exhaust coil. Kind of concentrate it into that area.
Yeah, you want to also make sure you're getting plenty of airflow to the intake portion of the condenser, so try to cut down on any restrictions there.
Where is your drain hole going to go? looks like it will leak in your camper.
These newer AC units aren't designed to drain. They use the condensate by throwing it onto the condenser coil to evaporate it and get higher efficiency, but I did drill a hole in the floor for it to drain out. The manual specifically recommends against it though.
So you believe the engineers when they told you that they did not need to be drained ? I can 100% promise you you will be addressing this issue very shortly because it is absolutely going to leak all over your floor. Please give us an update on your fix for the leaky water, thank you
Sorry to disappoint you, but it isn't an issue. Thanks for watching!
What makes you think you disappointed me? I'm just stating a fact. that the air conditioner is 100% going to leak all over that floor no matter what you say.
And no matter how many times you repeat that they are designed not to , you my friend are mistaken.
My friend, all I can do is report my experience with it, and I had no issues. I did go ahead and contact the current owners of the camper to see what their experience has been after their first season with it, and they reported no issues with condensation either.
Great idea!
Thanks!
Nice job
Thanks!
Hey I make the mistakes around here.... You're stealing my mantra.
I'm gonna have to watch what I say I guess, lol. Maybe I should say, "I do stupid things, 'cause I don't know any better." I don't know, I'll work on it.
I need to do this on my starflyte.
Honestly it was pretty easy, but I'm still a little skeptical as to how well it's going to work. Time will tell!
@@TrailerTrashtoTreasure keep us posted?
Will do!
It’s my camper I do what I want 😂 Yes it is 🎉
Well it was a good learning experience anyway!
You'll be vacuuming out the construction dust and debris, right?
It's either vacuum it up, or box it in, lol!
a/c leak water so need a drain for it or water will be on your wood floor!!!!
Most contemporary window units are designed to evaporate any condensate and actually cool more effectively without draining it away. That said, there is a place for an optional drain plug on this unit, and I've been contemplating installing a drain line even though the manual specifically recommends against it.
Used to have a friend who was a sheet metal guy.They can build you amything.
My dad and younger brother both work in sheet metal, and I did think of asking them to build everything for me, but what's the fun in that?
I have no clue why people do this.. Just take a normal AC window unit. Separate the inside from outside. Add a a few feet more in compressor lines and wiring. Cover them back up using the old cover. Then you have a cheap mini split..... Takes about a day to make one...
That's an interesting thought, but I would think most units would require a tad more modification than just tubing and wiring; I suppose it could be made to work though, and I'd love to see one that's been done that way.
@@TrailerTrashtoTreasure Nope.. That is all you're doing with a Mini Split..Just longer refrigerant lines and some wires..
This does require you cut the lines. Add some valves. Extend them. Then pull a vacuum. Then add the right amount of Refrigerant back in plus 1oz extra for the extended lines..
Why you look for units that use R410a.. You can get that stuff anywhere...
What do you do about the fan on the condenser coil? All of the window units I've seen for the last several years combine the fans onto one motor.
@@TrailerTrashtoTreasure Look for one that does not have that sling blade on them.. As that is what they are for.. To sling the condensation on the rear coils.. As it captures the condensation in a tray...
If you really want that brand. Then just add a fan to it. I seen people do that.. As they actually make fans to increase air across the coils... And remove the blade on the rear slinger shaft...
So with that arrangement you'd definitely need a condensate drip line from the evaporator coil, correct?
Just a Lou red grill on the outside
You mean louvered grill? It could work, I really didn't want to add any other restriction though, so I was thinking a more open sheet of what I think they usually call expanded steel, and then an extra sliding cover to keep out dirt and weather when I'm traveling.
I've got a better idea for doing this in the future.
@@TrailerTrashtoTreasuresorry depending on which language my keyboard is set sometimes it try’s to auto correct it’s not 100% but yes that’s what I meant
Ah yep, mine is only ever set to English and I still have to correct about every other sentence.
your making it too easy for someone to steal that a/c.
I'm not too worried. They'd have to break into the camper to tear that AC out. It'd be easier to just pry open someone's window and take one that way.
I've heard so many theft horror stories.
Like I said, I'm not too worried about it. My refrigerator is a bigger target.