The most important thing to remember running a lathe or mill is they don’t stop. Regardless of what gets in that chuck it’s not stopping. So make sure you don’t wear long sleeves while running one and keep your appendages away from it. Get yourself some good measuring tools and take your time.
Safety first! A lathe will chew you up and spit you out if you not careful! No strings or dangling things that could catch the chuck and ruin your day...
Pretty cool guys. You could have chucked the 6 hole flange in the lathe then trapped the outputshaft in place with a live center (pointy bearing) in the tailstock which would keep the output shaft centered then tack and weld with the lathe turning very slowly...😉 Next time.
Greet ideas, but you need to get that crankshaft out of there. Make a new straight replacement shaft on the lathe. That one is going to vibrate like crazy with no rod and piston. And it may not take the torque either depending on how it’s pressed together. You will be able to do wonders with that lathe! What a great addition to your shop! You also need a dial indicator.
I wanted to do something like this for my go cart back when i was a teenager, had an old blown up motor bike but didn't have the machining skills back then. got rid of the go cart and moved on to real cars before it happened. Cool to see this idea coming to fruition through you guys!
The addition of a lathe to the shop is gonna open up a whole new world to your builds and allow you to fabricate things never before possible. Hope y'all used grade 8 hardened bolts in that flywheel plate to handle the stress?
I dig the innovative workarounds using what's on hand. It reminds me a bit of one of my favorite old shows Junkyard Wars (previously Scrapheap Challenge from the UK)
I remember junkyard wars! Loved that show... Believe it helped steer me towards engineering! The episode where they made the planes was incredible! The show winner went WELL ABOVE the height they stated. It was an awesome piece of kit!
This is a great project, but you should definitely take the extra effort, split the cases, eliminate the crankshaft and make a new jackshaft. The stock crank without the rod and the piston is very unbalanced, the whole thing will vibrate a lot😅 Otherwise love your work, the lathe is a great add to the shop :)
Hey guys, running your drive power through the crankshaft will likely twist the counterweight of the crank and become violently out of alignment and destroying the end bearings and possibly the case, The rod journals on those are only pressed in and are not keyed or splined, I think the best way to do this would be using your new lathe and make your own shaft to drive the transmission, just a thought. Keep up the good work guys.
You three should made a tier list on some (more likely the most notable) builds you've created over the years and rank them all from favorite to least favorite.
@@brandonwyatt3901 dude ive been watching these guys since before i was in hs and I'm in college now. please show me when they have other than a few race videos. i don't even know if they still have some of the old karts
3 jaw chucks are convenient, but 4 jaw chucks will allow you to center your pieces much more accurately. Looking forward to what else y'all do with the lathe.
I ran a CnC Hardeing cobra 42 for may years, I also ran a manual lathe... the two things I can give for advise is makes usure your running the correct speeds and feed and the proper incerts for the material you are running and make sure everything is as true straight as possible. the 3 jaw you can manipulate in all different ways, uses a dial indicator to make sure its straight and true. watch some older Abom32 videos to learn and for the love of god make sure you use a center on the opposite end if its longer then and inch or so sticking out of the collet.
I like the four wheel drive option, and I would definitely use it. even though it would be much more time consuming. I believe it would be so much better. to go with a solid steel shaft to replace the crankshaft. it would be so much stronger and you would get rid excess rotating mass.
I have to say, I’ve watched your videos for yours and you guys always keep me entertained but the level of engineering and machining you guys have got to is incredible, kudos!
Holy cow you guys have come such a long way in such a short time! It won't take long before you guys are machining some decent stuff. Ike has been such a good mentor for John, and now for Charles. Keep it up guys, you're really doing well and improving your skills!
I don't understand why they didn't just make a bearing support on the lathe and weld it on. The bearing would be press fit and they could have cut a small groove in the shaft for a snap ring to retain the bearing.
I really love how yall are slowly getting bigger and more complex tools and the projects also seem to follow the same trend. I cant wait to see what yall are doing in like 5 years with a full workshop.
THIS! 100% get a flexible holder and a magnetic base. 3 jaw chucks in theory self center, they do a lot of times, but always double check run out! Y’all are talking 0.001” of inches now. Big step up in precision and perfection is required for the full potential of that lathe.
@@gavincline209 Typically a new 3 jaw chuck will center within .003". Since it's a scroll chuck as it wears it's ability to center gets worse and worse. A 4 jaw chuck, while more time consuming to center parts, can get you within a tenth (.0001") without too much fuss with practice. A good dial indicator and holder is critical. Even the best indicator is worthless without a good holder. IMHO a Noga holder is one of the very best.
@@pyromedichd1 agreed. And they did say an old machine from an old machine shop, so I’d bet it more worn out then not. I figured throwing out the whole 4 jaw stuff was probably a bit much for them right now. They require more skills and experience to run, then someone new like them probably have. Would just make things more complicated on there learning curve then it needs to be. IMO
@@gavincline209 I am in high-school and I took a machinetool class and my teacher made me use a 4 jaw. And sometimes a collet machine. After a few weeks u could center anything in like 3 minutes
@@Jambroni_1 with a good teacher to show you and stuff, sure. I think I herd them say they had someone helping, but overall I’m kinda thinking they will just be figuring it all out on there own mostly.
you guys came a long way up till now. cant wait to see what comes of the new shop, new tools and new sponsors. exciting stuff coming this year for sure
I bought one of these GY6 kandi karts about 8 months ago. Didn't wanna go to crazy and bought a Honda Rebel 250 Inline 2 to throw on it. Still sitting in my garage lol haven't had time to mess with it anymore. But this has me stoked.
My recommendation is to do all welding with slightly oversized plates and shafts and then machine all critical surfaces afterwards. No matter how "good" you think the concentricity will be you will never get it completely correct. Out of true components will eventually start cracking and then fail. Also now that you have a lathe add bearing pockets and machine them for more high tech goodness. Respect the lathe! It's a great tool but will tear you up so fast you wont know what happened. NEVER pull chips out out of the way with your hands, NEVER EVER EVER!!! Those chips are like razor wire and will cut all the way to the bone. I've seen it happen.
Great Job Gents. A couple of hints get some micrometers, a 0-1", 1-2" will do you great service. Your digi calipers will be good enough for the larger work. A dial indicater with a magnetic base. When you attached the outer shaft you could have used it, but the keyway was in your way. Look up feed and speeds online or go to libraray and check to see if they have a machinist handbook. The larger the diameter the slower you turn the piece. smaller is faster. When facing a plate the FPS changes as you go in towards the center. Please be careful as that lathe will not stop with your arm in the way. No loose clothes, tatterd, ripped sleaves! Be extremly careful of STRING chips as they can wrap around you .
Your crankshelf have offset weight to offset for the connecting rod and the piston. Since you cut off the connecting rao your crank shaft will have more weight on one side which will cause more vibration.
I’ve been watching y’all’s videos since the beginning. Glad y’all are finally reusing motors as the transmissions. I keep up with the RUclipsrs y’all have done collabs with and have watched some of them from their beginning too. The coolest part is seeing the progress of someone’s fab skills go up.💪🏻💯
Hey fellas. You could’ve centred (centered for you US English folks) the 6 bolt flange into the chuck on your lathe, then held the output shaft in alignment using the tail stock of your lathe. 😉👍
Delays is a great addition to your shop. A few tools to go with it for measuring. The one I see you need right now is a dial indicator to get your rotating masses absolutely true
Instead of welding the bearing to the plate, machine a cup with a flange that can retain the bearing. Make it bolt to the outer round plate. Replaceable bearing and protected.
great work again guys , john when using the lathe in future id always recommend standing well to the side of the chuck & dont get your face up to close to the part to avoid any mishaps also should avoid any long sleeved clothing when running the machine , a really solid machine with a lot of potential looks to be a flat top clausing / colchester , i have recently restored my own 15"x50" colchester triumph TR2000 & colchester Master 13"x30" machines if your intrested have a browse over some of my videos.
You guys are awesome! Seeing you work together reminds me of when I was younger. Except that, in my experience, one of us brothers would work, while the other three would watch, criticize, and wait for a mistake so we could laugh.
Jhon mentioned it already, that the crankshaft is going to be out of balance missing the rod and piston. Y’all could add a counterbalance, although there will be an oscillating secondary couple imbalance. Try to add the balance as close to the crankshaft lobe/counterweight as possible, because the further away it’s mounted the worse the secondary couple imbalance will be.. or something like that. Good job gents keep up the good work👏
Nice colchester! I work on the same exact machine making drill heads. It's a great machine. Things you need are: 1.Way oil 2. Dial indicator 3. A good set of calipers and micrometer 4. I'm sure it came with a live center if not get one. Also slow them rpm's down when cutting steel and try to cut no more then .05 each pass. .010 to .005 finish pass. That's with a carbide insert. Also the black lever closer to the in feed will be your best friend, but practice first with scrap. I tell yea I've been watching you guys way back in your pops garage and haven't missed an episode yet. Keep up the good work and if you guys have any questions regarding that lathe I'm here to help.
You guys are so creative and I love it. I've always loved to create stuff like this. My thing has always been garden tractor creations. Keep up having fun.
Order of operations on a machining project is very important. In this case you would have been better off welding you shaft to the flange as centered as possible and then taking the assembly to the lathe, out it between centers and machine the final diameter of the shaft. By doing so you would insure concentrically and parallelism with the engine crankshaft. It would also be prudent to match mark the flange so it goes back on in the same position every time. I suggest a reprint of South Bend's How to Run A Lathe as a good text to get started with your lathe work. You can probably find it as a download online or buy a hard copy for very little money.
Did you guys ever, while working in John's parents' garage, consider you would be working with plasma table, lathe and other professional style fabrication equipment?!? I'm proud of you all for how far you've come.
I'm excited for this build! 4wd will be so fun. You guys scored on that lathe, I've ran one like that for years and they cut good. When you see sparks cutting steel like that ir usually means it's been hardened, chipped cutting insert or it's a tool steel. Maybe invest in a digital readout it makes it a lot easier and faster for new turners.
@@johnsonoutdoors8117 awesome, good luck! Run it slow and use coolant or oil on your finish passes to hold a good finish and tolerance. Blue chips are normal it puts a lot of heat into the chip, part and tool
@@smallblocktommy581 the lathe is my favorite machine to run. I go an hour away for a high school class. But the shoo is probably the best school shop 3-4 hours one way on a US-2.
Great video gentleman, I'm so glad you guys finally got a lathe. This will be an absolute game-changer for you! It opens the doors to so many possibilities and cuts back on the restrictions for parts that don't exist. If you lathe it they will come. Congratulations boys! Looking forward to the content in 2023.
Get a decent dial test indicator (.0005" increments) with a magnetic base that you can use to indicate the part in the chuck to run more round before you turn it, will help a lot in centering. Also, make sure your tooling is at correct center height and cut with the tip of insert.
Hell yeah. I've been saying yall need a lathe and or mill. Glad to see ya got one. Truly life changing. BTW the machines aren't the expensive part. It's all the other tools, fixtures, gages, and consumables that really add up.
I promise when yall learn how the manual lathe works yall are gonna have fun... I took classes for it in high-school and loved working with the machine it's a lot of math and patience but it's worth it
Use a pocket scale to place along the side of the turned material in a vertical mode, put the tip of your cutting tool against the pocket scale. When the cutting bit is touching the gauge, the gauge should be perfectly vertical, not leaning back for sure. If the gauge is leaning back, your cutting bit is above center, if the gauge is leaning toward the operator, the cutting bit is too low. You can get away with a couple of thousandths below center, but not above center. There are many tips you'll receive and you'll end up using most if not all. Cutting threads is the most fun for me. But, more than anything making pieces for the Little Red Wagon Wheel Stander while it was running out of my old Machine Shop. I was lucky enough to build some things for a lot of professional fuel, alcohol cars, dirt cars, asphalt cars and I never tired of it. Miss my Machine Shop more than any of my businesses. If you have questions, hit me up in my gmail and I'll give you my digits to try to answer your questions.
I think the best way to do that collar and shaft would have been to make it of soild piece of steel on your new lath or in the same 2 parts and welded like you and then stick it back in the lath and resurfaced it so that it would be more balanced piece and less vibration and fit the as well. Love your channel!
Coming from someone that works in a machine/fabrication shop. Any little variance in the squareness* of that shaft will eventually** wear out that bearing and commence to eating your cover plate! I'd also like to see you all invest in a tig welder, it is much cleaner and elegant weld. Using that mig is kinda like taking a cannon to a fist fight... great video b.t.w.!
Very nice for a first lathe! My first was a 9” south bend. I have moved up to a 13X40 Clausing like bran new! I love it! I spent hours and hours to learn it then I bought a Bridgeport mill which you guys really should get next so you can mill your own heads. Machine work is a lot of fun! Be super careful with long sleeves! You need a dial indicator on there
The sparks are not coming from too much RPM. They are coming from a dull or poorly setup tool. If the stock is rubbing against the tool or tool holder rather than the cutting edge of the insert or if the insert is dull you'll get a little light show. I strongly recommend using cutting oil. It will make your insert last longer, and provide some cooling as well.
The flange that mounts to the flywheel should have been welded to the shaft and then turned. That would give you some circumference of the shaft to turn down and true the piece.
You could've made a collar for the bearing, then welded that to the cover, then if you had any bearing issues you just pull old bearing out and replace it.
I love the time-lapse footage, maybe a "real-time" clock on screen to depict actual shop time each task takes, as we all know these projects become massive rabbit holes sometimes....You guys are absolutely fantastic as individual presenters and ensemble... great show gents....cheers from Toronto....
O hell yeah, you guys got a lathe.... Can't wait to see what you can make w/ that. You should watch This Old Tony and Paul Brodie.... They're both very talented machinists and Paul is an amazing bike builder who has built some of the craziest looking frames and he taught welding and how to build a bike frames too.
I'm a long time subscriber I have v watched you guys from almost nothing with basic tools building Go-Karts with everyday tools all the c way to the new shop and all the lovely new tools and such you guys are putting out awesome content. Keep up the great work!!!
Where is the Clutch? I’m glad to see that this is working for y’all. I remember mentioning doing this in a previous video maybe one of the drag rail video’s since the chopper transmission idea didn’t fly I believe I said to do what you three are doing now scrapping a bad engine with good transmission hybrid. Keep it going guys, more videos please.
Just be aware that the key on that fly wheel will be your torque weak link. You will also feel some vibration from not having the rod and piston on the crankshaft (out of balance). It should still work , have fun. 🤟
Now that you have a lathe it makes sense to buy some proper indicators with a magnetic indicator stand. It is also a useful tool to align sprockets and diskbreaks, axels, and what not. That is much better as fiddling with a sharpy.
suggestion... Flywheel jackshaft extension thingamy centering... Once you had resolved the length and got it tacked on. Remove the flywheel cover you made, put the cover back in the lathe and use the floating centre to get it close, then use a dial indicator, true it in spot on and keep adding tacls while still on the lathe, Chuck and floating centre will keep it where you need it once trued in (99% - maybe some weld distortion)
Word to the wise, don't be tempted to cut round stock with a saw while lathe Is running...I did it with 50mm nylon round stock , the off cut broke off and smacked me across the chest knocking the wind clean out of me...and some sense in... your vids are 1st class!!!
I'd recommend cutting off the support bearing and making a press-in cup for it on the lathe. You can weld the cup to the outer plate, and that way, the bearing is replaceable. I'm a little saddened at the choice of transmission. The Arctic Cats have a centrifugal clutch built into the transmission, so you won't be able to do clutch dumps or have fully manual shifting. This is looking cool, can't wait to see the outcome. For lathe tips, I always run the lathe as slow as it will go for a parting tool cutting steel. Might want to bump it up a bit for aluminum, but still run pretty slow
Great video, informative and entertaining. Love engine rebuilds, like 2vintage channel, I am okay with "shade tree" general maintenance but rebuilding engines are a little beyond my cranial capacity
The most important thing to remember running a lathe or mill is they don’t stop. Regardless of what gets in that chuck it’s not stopping. So make sure you don’t wear long sleeves while running one and keep your appendages away from it. Get yourself some good measuring tools and take your time.
Well said.I used to train people to run lathes and read the equipment,(micrometers and calipers)so they did it right,and Safely.
Also, NO GLOVES!!!
And DONT forget the chuck key in the chuck and start it, easy to miss the tree in the forest.
I was just going to say invest in your measuring tools I personally use mostly starret
Safety first! A lathe will chew you up and spit you out if you not careful! No strings or dangling things that could catch the chuck and ruin your day...
Pretty cool guys. You could have chucked the 6 hole flange in the lathe then trapped the outputshaft in place with a live center (pointy bearing) in the tailstock which would keep the output shaft centered then tack and weld with the lathe turning very slowly...😉 Next time.
You took the words out of my mouth! I think Charles will end up being very good at machining stuff he seems like the kinda guy that has it in him.
Glad I started perusing the comments so I didn't duplicate.
Exactly what I was thinking. I have seen that done before
First thought after the low down at the beginning….
That’s ambitious 😮
Greet ideas, but you need to get that crankshaft out of there. Make a new straight replacement shaft on the lathe. That one is going to vibrate like crazy with no rod and piston. And it may not take the torque either depending on how it’s pressed together. You will be able to do wonders with that lathe! What a great addition to your shop! You also need a dial indicator.
I wanted to do something like this for my go cart back when i was a teenager, had an old blown up motor bike but didn't have the machining skills back then. got rid of the go cart and moved on to real cars before it happened. Cool to see this idea coming to fruition through you guys!
That cutoff con rod makes this a VIBRATION machine
I have concerns about the longevity of the bearings with all that abrasive disk dust and metal shavings in the engine case as well.
The addition of a lathe to the shop is gonna open up a whole new world to your builds and allow you to fabricate things never before possible. Hope y'all used grade 8 hardened bolts in that flywheel plate to handle the stress?
I dig the innovative workarounds using what's on hand. It reminds me a bit of one of my favorite old shows Junkyard Wars (previously Scrapheap Challenge from the UK)
I remember junkyard wars! Loved that show... Believe it helped steer me towards engineering! The episode where they made the planes was incredible! The show winner went WELL ABOVE the height they stated. It was an awesome piece of kit!
This is a great project, but you should definitely take the extra effort, split the cases, eliminate the crankshaft and make a new jackshaft. The stock crank without the rod and the piston is very unbalanced, the whole thing will vibrate a lot😅
Otherwise love your work, the lathe is a great add to the shop :)
Hey guys, running your drive power through the crankshaft will likely twist the counterweight of the crank and become violently out of alignment and destroying the end bearings and possibly the case, The rod journals on those are only pressed in and are not keyed or splined, I think the best way to do this would be using your new lathe and make your own shaft to drive the transmission, just a thought. Keep up the good work guys.
Maybe, but wouldn't that make some cool noises?.. and the thought of all that mechanical carnage!
You three should made a tier list on some (more likely the most notable) builds you've created over the years and rank them all from favorite to least favorite.
They do it every time at the end of the every video .
Great podcast content
@@brandonwyatt3901 dude ive been watching these guys since before i was in hs and I'm in college now. please show me when they have other than a few race videos. i don't even know if they still have some of the old karts
The best accessories for a lathe are set of dial indicators and comparators, and they're also perfect when welding on shafts straight.
Finally I have been seeing this in the background of the past good few videos now. Keep it up. I have been viewing since ‘17.
That lathe will take your creations to the next level for sure. Keep at it, guys!
You guys keep upping your game slowly but surely. Just think of how far you guys have come. Good job.
3 jaw chucks are convenient, but 4 jaw chucks will allow you to center your pieces much more accurately. Looking forward to what else y'all do with the lathe.
if each jaw is set properly it will still center the stock just fine
I ran a CnC Hardeing cobra 42 for may years, I also ran a manual lathe... the two things I can give for advise is makes usure your running the correct speeds and feed and the proper incerts for the material you are running and make sure everything is as true straight as possible. the 3 jaw you can manipulate in all different ways, uses a dial indicator to make sure its straight and true. watch some older Abom32 videos to learn and for the love of god make sure you use a center on the opposite end if its longer then and inch or so sticking out of the collet.
I like the four wheel drive option, and I would definitely use it. even though it would be much more time consuming. I believe it would be so much better. to go with a solid steel shaft to replace the crankshaft. it would be so much stronger and you would get rid excess rotating mass.
I have to say, I’ve watched your videos for yours and you guys always keep me entertained but the level of engineering and machining you guys have got to is incredible, kudos!
Holy cow you guys have come such a long way in such a short time! It won't take long before you guys are machining some decent stuff. Ike has been such a good mentor for John, and now for Charles. Keep it up guys, you're really doing well and improving your skills!
Love that y'all are always evolving. That lathe set up is yet another step forward. You have come a long way.
Nice workmanship on the driveshaft extension….. Enjoyed the lathe video portions👍
If you haven't already, you're gonna learn why you don't weld to bearing steel. That said, points for creativity on the rest of the adapter.
I don't understand why they didn't just make a bearing support on the lathe and weld it on. The bearing would be press fit and they could have cut a small groove in the shaft for a snap ring to retain the bearing.
The musical Timelapse with voice overs were AMAZING. really enjoyed it
So much potential!
Cool
Pleat do dust bowl
Smoke another one! Fire it up!
I really love how yall are slowly getting bigger and more complex tools and the projects also seem to follow the same trend. I cant wait to see what yall are doing in like 5 years with a full workshop.
The creatively is there. But what about the piston being cut off won’t that create an imbalance on the crank creating a vibration?
Get a dial indicator with a magnetic 🧲 base to check runout in the lathe and on engines,jackshafts,welded extensions etc.
you need to get a dial indicator, could of been used instead of a marker on the shaft. and is used to center a thing on a lathe with a 4 post chuck.
THIS! 100% get a flexible holder and a magnetic base. 3 jaw chucks in theory self center, they do a lot of times, but always double check run out! Y’all are talking 0.001” of inches now. Big step up in precision and perfection is required for the full potential of that lathe.
@@gavincline209 Typically a new 3 jaw chuck will center within .003". Since it's a scroll chuck as it wears it's ability to center gets worse and worse. A 4 jaw chuck, while more time consuming to center parts, can get you within a tenth (.0001") without too much fuss with practice. A good dial indicator and holder is critical. Even the best indicator is worthless without a good holder. IMHO a Noga holder is one of the very best.
@@pyromedichd1 agreed. And they did say an old machine from an old machine shop, so I’d bet it more worn out then not. I figured throwing out the whole 4 jaw stuff was probably a bit much for them right now. They require more skills and experience to run, then someone new like them probably have. Would just make things more complicated on there learning curve then it needs to be. IMO
@@gavincline209 I am in high-school and I took a machinetool class and my teacher made me use a 4 jaw. And sometimes a collet machine. After a few weeks u could center anything in like 3 minutes
@@Jambroni_1 with a good teacher to show you and stuff, sure.
I think I herd them say they had someone helping, but overall I’m kinda thinking they will just be figuring it all out on there own mostly.
What about machining a new shaft to replace the entire crank. It would eliminate the rod and counterbalance as well? Just a thought.
When using the lathe, heat is your enemy, cutting fluid is your friend, patience and awareness are a must
you guys came a long way up till now. cant wait to see what comes of the new shop, new tools and new sponsors. exciting stuff coming this year for sure
I bought one of these GY6 kandi karts about 8 months ago. Didn't wanna go to crazy and bought a Honda Rebel 250 Inline 2 to throw on it. Still sitting in my garage lol haven't had time to mess with it anymore. But this has me stoked.
My recommendation is to do all welding with slightly oversized plates and shafts and then machine all critical surfaces afterwards. No matter how "good" you think the concentricity will be you will never get it completely correct. Out of true components will eventually start cracking and then fail. Also now that you have a lathe add bearing pockets and machine them for more high tech goodness. Respect the lathe! It's a great tool but will tear you up so fast you wont know what happened. NEVER pull chips out out of the way with your hands, NEVER EVER EVER!!! Those chips are like razor wire and will cut all the way to the bone. I've seen it happen.
I love these builds. No one does it like you guys.
Really enjoyed the mix of casual and techy filming/ commentary 👍👍
The lathe and plasma are gonna take you guys to the next level for sure.
Love it, I might suggest to use a bearing holder welded to the outer plate so you can change the bearing down the road.
I don't see anything stopping them changing the existing bearing?
They did
Nothing better to watch after a trip to the pub than a Carsandcameras vid
Great Job Gents. A couple of hints get some micrometers, a 0-1", 1-2" will do you great service. Your digi calipers will be good enough for the larger work. A dial indicater with a magnetic base. When you attached the outer shaft you could have used it, but the keyway was in your way. Look up feed and speeds online or go to libraray and check to see if they have a machinist handbook. The larger the diameter the slower you turn the piece. smaller is faster. When facing a plate the FPS changes as you go in towards the center. Please be careful as that lathe will not stop with your arm in the way. No loose clothes, tatterd, ripped sleaves! Be extremly careful of STRING chips as they can wrap around you .
Can't wait to see how it goes, all the best to yous and your loved ones
Your crankshelf have offset weight to offset for the connecting rod and the piston. Since you cut off the connecting rao your crank shaft will have more weight on one side which will cause more vibration.
Finally! You guys got yourselves an honest to gosh lathe! Whoop! (can a Bridgeport be too far behind? mmmm..?)
I’ve been watching y’all’s videos since the beginning. Glad y’all are finally reusing motors as the transmissions. I keep up with the RUclipsrs y’all have done collabs with and have watched some of them from their beginning too. The coolest part is seeing the progress of someone’s fab skills go up.💪🏻💯
Well done my boys,it's all about the build. Thats why I watch you guys.
Y’all need a magnetic base and a dial indicator to check concentricity on the lathe and when checking adapters
Hey fellas. You could’ve centred (centered for you US English folks) the 6 bolt flange into the chuck on your lathe, then held the output shaft in alignment using the tail stock of your lathe. 😉👍
Delays is a great addition to your shop. A few tools to go with it for measuring. The one I see you need right now is a dial indicator to get your rotating masses absolutely true
Instead of welding the bearing to the plate, machine a cup with a flange that can retain the bearing. Make it bolt to the outer round plate. Replaceable bearing and protected.
great work again guys , john when using the lathe in future id always recommend standing well to the side of the chuck & dont get your face up to close to the part to avoid any mishaps also should avoid any long sleeved clothing when running the machine , a really solid machine with a lot of potential looks to be a flat top clausing / colchester , i have recently restored my own 15"x50" colchester triumph TR2000 & colchester Master 13"x30" machines if your intrested have a browse over some of my videos.
You guys are awesome! Seeing you work together reminds me of when I was younger. Except that, in my experience, one of us brothers would work, while the other three would watch, criticize, and wait for a mistake so we could laugh.
Can't wait for next episodes on this one 👍☮️
Digital micrometer and caliper are a must for use with a lathe..
Been waiting for a build like this forever, appreciate it
Jhon mentioned it already, that the crankshaft is going to be out of balance missing the rod and piston. Y’all could add a counterbalance, although there will be an oscillating secondary couple imbalance. Try to add the balance as close to the crankshaft lobe/counterweight as possible, because the further away it’s mounted the worse the secondary couple imbalance will be.. or something like that. Good job gents keep up the good work👏
Nice colchester! I work on the same exact machine making drill heads. It's a great machine.
Things you need are:
1.Way oil
2. Dial indicator
3. A good set of calipers and
micrometer
4. I'm sure it came with a live center if
not get one.
Also slow them rpm's down when cutting steel and try to cut no more then .05 each pass. .010 to .005 finish pass. That's with a carbide insert.
Also the black lever closer to the in feed will be your best friend, but practice first with scrap. I tell yea I've been watching you guys way back in your pops garage and haven't missed an episode yet. Keep up the good work and if you guys have any questions regarding that lathe I'm here to help.
A dial indicator and a magnetic base would do wonders for getting that "output shaft " straight ..
Remember - weld THEN finish machine if possible. Its the best way to get minimal runout on parts like this
You guys are so creative and I love it. I've always loved to create stuff like this. My thing has always been garden tractor creations. Keep up having fun.
Order of operations on a machining project is very important. In this case you would have been better off welding you shaft to the flange as centered as possible and then taking the assembly to the lathe, out it between centers and machine the final diameter of the shaft. By doing so you would insure concentrically and parallelism with the engine crankshaft. It would also be prudent to match mark the flange so it goes back on in the same position every time. I suggest a reprint of South Bend's How to Run A Lathe as a good text to get started with your lathe work. You can probably find it as a download online or buy a hard copy for very little money.
Did you guys ever, while working in John's parents' garage, consider you would be working with plasma table, lathe and other professional style fabrication equipment?!? I'm proud of you all for how far you've come.
Glad to see yall got a lathe now. Now with the crossfire pro + lathe, parts will be much easier to make. You guys are awesome !
I'm excited for this build! 4wd will be so fun. You guys scored on that lathe, I've ran one like that for years and they cut good. When you see sparks cutting steel like that ir usually means it's been hardened, chipped cutting insert or it's a tool steel. Maybe invest in a digital readout it makes it a lot easier and faster for new turners.
Ha I’m going to have fun. I’m going to work with tool steel in class possibly S-7.
@@johnsonoutdoors8117 awesome, good luck! Run it slow and use coolant or oil on your finish passes to hold a good finish and tolerance. Blue chips are normal it puts a lot of heat into the chip, part and tool
@@smallblocktommy581 the lathe is my favorite machine to run. I go an hour away for a high school class. But the shoo is probably the best school shop 3-4 hours one way on a US-2.
Great video gentleman, I'm so glad you guys finally got a lathe. This will be an absolute game-changer for you! It opens the doors to so many possibilities and cuts back on the restrictions for parts that don't exist. If you lathe it they will come. Congratulations boys! Looking forward to the content in 2023.
I haven't watched in a while and I can tell your fabrication and video production skills have greatly improved. Keep up the good work!
One channel y'all might appreciate in y'all's pursuit of lathe-iness is This Old Tony. Very knowledgeable and funny. Keep it janky, fellas!
Get a decent dial test indicator (.0005" increments) with a magnetic base that you can use to indicate the part in the chuck to run more round before you turn it, will help a lot in centering. Also, make sure your tooling is at correct center height and cut with the tip of insert.
Keep up the good work guys loving the projects got a couple myself hope I save up this year to go out there and ride with you guys
Hell yeah. I've been saying yall need a lathe and or mill. Glad to see ya got one. Truly life changing.
BTW the machines aren't the expensive part. It's all the other tools, fixtures, gages, and consumables that really add up.
Ike's look of bewildredness @ 6:45 had me crackin up. Another great vid., guys. Thanks.
So great to see the shop grow and your capabilities with it, well done!
love seeing charles gain confidence on camera and really lean into his sense of humor. dude is legit funny and i love his remarks 100% of the time.
Definitely a great addition to the team
I promise when yall learn how the manual lathe works yall are gonna have fun... I took classes for it in high-school and loved working with the machine it's a lot of math and patience but it's worth it
I might recommend some dial indicators, will help you guys true up everything. Mag base would have helped with the shft welding too.
Good episode guys looking forward to more in this series.
Nice work on the lathe Charles! I have a feeling your going to come up with some cool and useful parts on that lathe! Keep up the hard work Charles!
Use a pocket scale to place along the side of the turned material in a vertical mode, put the tip of your cutting tool against the pocket scale. When the cutting bit is touching the gauge, the gauge should be perfectly vertical, not leaning back for sure. If the gauge is leaning back, your cutting bit is above center, if the gauge is leaning toward the operator, the cutting bit is too low. You can get away with a couple of thousandths below center, but not above center.
There are many tips you'll receive and you'll end up using most if not all. Cutting threads is the most fun for me. But, more than anything making pieces for the Little Red Wagon Wheel Stander while it was running out of my old Machine Shop. I was lucky enough to build some things for a lot of professional fuel, alcohol cars, dirt cars, asphalt cars and I never tired of it. Miss my Machine Shop more than any of my businesses. If you have questions, hit me up in my gmail and I'll give you my digits to try to answer your questions.
Lathes are serious machines. Be careful 🙏And yes, so much potential!! Can’t wait…
I think the best way to do that collar and shaft would have been to make it of soild piece of steel on your new lath or in the same 2 parts and welded like you and then stick it back in the lath and resurfaced it so that it would be more balanced piece and less vibration and fit the as well. Love your channel!
Coming from someone that works in a machine/fabrication shop. Any little variance in the squareness* of that shaft will eventually** wear out that bearing and commence to eating your cover plate! I'd also like to see you all invest in a tig welder, it is much cleaner and elegant weld. Using that mig is kinda like taking a cannon to a fist fight... great video b.t.w.!
Very nice for a first lathe! My first was a 9” south bend. I have moved up to a 13X40 Clausing like bran new! I love it! I spent hours and hours to learn it then I bought a Bridgeport mill which you guys really should get next so you can mill your own heads. Machine work is a lot of fun! Be super careful with long sleeves! You need a dial indicator on there
"Rusty Spline" Isn't that the name of a famous Kart racer? 😁 Thanks for the vids! 😎
Love the integration of the new filming and the group of guys put effort into this. Keep going, enjoying the content! Keep going!
The sparks are not coming from too much RPM. They are coming from a dull or poorly setup tool. If the stock is rubbing against the tool or tool holder rather than the cutting edge of the insert or if the insert is dull you'll get a little light show. I strongly recommend using cutting oil. It will make your insert last longer, and provide some cooling as well.
The flange that mounts to the flywheel should have been welded to the shaft and then turned. That would give you some circumference of the shaft to turn down and true the piece.
You could've made a collar for the bearing, then welded that to the cover, then if you had any bearing issues you just pull old bearing out and replace it.
I can’t wait to see how this one turns out compared to the last one. Definitely inspiring me to build myself one of these in the future
Good measuring tools and a DRO (digital read out) will do wonders for your new lathe
I love the time-lapse footage, maybe a "real-time" clock on screen to depict actual shop time each task takes, as we all know these projects become massive rabbit holes sometimes....You guys are absolutely fantastic as individual presenters and ensemble... great show gents....cheers from Toronto....
O hell yeah, you guys got a lathe.... Can't wait to see what you can make w/ that. You should watch This Old Tony and Paul Brodie.... They're both very talented machinists and Paul is an amazing bike builder who has built some of the craziest looking frames and he taught welding and how to build a bike frames too.
I've been awaiting the day you guys do some legit machining! This was great!
I'm a long time subscriber I have v watched you guys from almost nothing with basic tools building Go-Karts with everyday tools all the c way to the new shop and all the lovely new tools and such you guys are putting out awesome content.
Keep up the great work!!!
Where is the Clutch? I’m glad to see that this is working for y’all. I remember mentioning doing this in a previous video maybe one of the drag rail video’s since the chopper transmission idea didn’t fly I believe I said to do what you three are doing now scrapping a bad engine with good transmission hybrid. Keep it going guys, more videos please.
Just be aware that the key on that fly wheel will be your torque weak link. You will also feel some vibration from not having the rod and piston on the crankshaft (out of balance). It should still work , have fun. 🤟
Now that you have a lathe it makes sense to buy some proper indicators with a magnetic indicator stand. It is also a useful tool to align sprockets and diskbreaks, axels, and what not. That is much better as fiddling with a sharpy.
If the lack of piston and rod give you too much vibration you can always weight the extension shaft adapter plate.
suggestion...
Flywheel jackshaft extension thingamy centering...
Once you had resolved the length and got it tacked on.
Remove the flywheel cover you made, put the cover back in the lathe and use the floating centre to get it close, then use a dial indicator, true it in spot on and keep adding tacls while still on the lathe, Chuck and floating centre will keep it where you need it once trued in (99% - maybe some weld distortion)
Yessss, don't know if yall seen my comment but this was exactly what I saw coming, its going to be so cool!
Word to the wise, don't be tempted to cut round stock with a saw while lathe Is running...I did it with 50mm nylon round stock , the off cut broke off and smacked me across the chest knocking the wind clean out of me...and some sense in... your vids are 1st class!!!
I'd recommend cutting off the support bearing and making a press-in cup for it on the lathe. You can weld the cup to the outer plate, and that way, the bearing is replaceable. I'm a little saddened at the choice of transmission. The Arctic Cats have a centrifugal clutch built into the transmission, so you won't be able to do clutch dumps or have fully manual shifting. This is looking cool, can't wait to see the outcome. For lathe tips, I always run the lathe as slow as it will go for a parting tool cutting steel. Might want to bump it up a bit for aluminum, but still run pretty slow
You southern boys have definitely gone posh with a decent lathe .
Greetings from England 🇬🇧
Great video, informative and entertaining. Love engine rebuilds, like 2vintage channel, I am okay with "shade tree" general maintenance but rebuilding engines are a little beyond my cranial capacity