So have many others. You have to be most cautious with Carbon Fiber (see below) and some aluminum bikes. But the clamp can scratch the paint job or decals on any bike frame. My repair stand has rubberized lining to the clamp (a DIY project many years ago which may not work on all clamps) so that I can also clamp the seat tube (the tube that goes from the top tube down to the chainrings and crank). However, I prefer the seatpost for most maintenance and repairs and have marked the seat post with tape (and have a quick release seat post clamp) to make it easy to return the saddle to the correct height. ***Of importance is to make sure that the seat post clamp is tightened to manufactures specifications when one returns the saddle to the correct height.** For those of you with carbon seat posts: You can hold the bike by the carbon post if it's round (or your clamp can accommodate an aero seat post) and you clamp it gently, but you may scratch it unless you're very careful and the jaws of the repair stand clamp are safe (keep them clean of dirt and wrap a piece of wax paper around the seat post to help prevent scratches). But your best bet is to buy an alloy or steel seat post (they're fairly cheap) and switch out the carbon for the alloy or steel post when working on your bike. See: brainybiker.com/can-you-clamp-a-carbon-seat-post/ Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Hi Tony. Just found your channel and really like your straight to the point, no bs narrative. This top tube vs seat post clamp discussion is eternal. My bike is aluminium, no external routing and the top tube is quite thin, so when i close the clamp it is just holding it, not squeezing it. What i find most advantageous of top tube clamping is that you barely need to actualy clamp it if the bike is resting on its center of gravity. Anyway, that's just my approach and since the clamp is all plastic with nylon lining, there is no damage risk from my point of view. Cheers
You're good technique is one of the exceptions. I recommend the seat post because I seen too many individual dent the aluminum or crack the carbon by overtightening the clamp and / or scratch the paint job because the clamp was not lined. Can you damage a carbon seat post by over clamping? Yes but at least you can easily replace the seat post as opposed the bike frame. Thanks for your comments and may all your maintenance and repairs go well. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thank you. One never stops learning, including myself. That's what make this fun. Sometimes one makes mistakes, but that to is a learning event. Keep the brain active. Also visit our RUclips home site at: ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Glad I watched this….I’m 53 and just got back into cycling and bought a repair stand to clean and maintenance…I was clamping it the top tube…..now I’ll know better…thank you sir
Instead of blue painter’s tape, I wrap a few turns (approx 1ft) of duct tape around the post just above binder bolt, and just leave it there. Not only is it a permanent insert depth guide, but also great for many roadside repairs. I also got an old cheap 27.2 seat post that I leave on the repair stand, and brutally clamp onto that rather than raising and protecting my pretty/expensive post.
Using an old cheap seat post is a great approach, especially if the seat post is carbon fiber. The blue tape I'm using is not "painter's tape" but colored electrical tape (I have a variety of colors I use for different applications). Black Gorilla tape is probably the strongest (although I wouldn't use it on carbon fiber in case you ever want to remove it). Thanks for the tip on using the old cheap seat post. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
You're welcome Ukraine and may support for all your hopes and dreams continue. Also visit our RUclips home site at: ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony
can a seat post clamp mount and/or seat stay adapters holding a 10-30kg package at the rear rack damage the frame on on-off pavement bumps rides in city/ off roads?
You hit on a controversal point as noted in the following comments of this posting: www.reddit.com/r/bikepacking/comments/1bbpmrz/safe_to_mount_to_carbon_frame/ I personally don't like the weight on the carbon fiber seat tube and/or carbon fiber chain stays alone and would rather see a axle mounted rack with stabiliztion on the seatpost. However, I'm not an expert in this area and would suggest more research and also to ask your local bike store for more advise. Regards, Tony
Absolutely. This allows indexing front and rear derailleur cables, adjusting brakes and more. If you can not, you are severely when doing maintenance and repairs. If you're doing your own work, a good bike repair stand is worth the money.
Was specially made by Park Tools for my 25+ year old all steel Park bike stand. Unfortunately, it's no longer offered. Now, many of the stands have plastic parts and are not very stable. I get asked this question quite a bit and am still looking for something of equal quality and value. I'll publish my finding when I find an equivalent. Regards, Tony
on a very fancy seat post I'll spray it with furniture polish so it is slippery then wrap news paper. a twisting force will slip better than rubber/leather. not damage the decals or printing or finish as much. those leather pads get tiny aluminum particles over time that will scratch some posts.
Not sure what you mean about the furniture polish and newspaper, but sounds interesting. Haven't had problems with the lined clamps causing scratches on steal or carbon seatposts, but have since "rubberized" clamp head with an old mtb inner tube as shown in the video. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed the furniture polish makes the seatpost slippery.. and wrap the paper same as you did the towel.on those evt clamps a business card works good. this just in case the bike twists in the clamp. rubber/leather will wipe off the brand name print or the graduated markers more than scratch carbon or aluminum (that could be polished ).. but the printing on them is gone forever.
thanks Tony. what will be the best way to have the rear wheel down and the handle bars up? i want to bleed the rear wheel and lever a little up the front part and only by the seatpost isnt working..thanks
Note how the bicycle is in the stand in the following video. Also note toward the end the need to remove the rear brake caliper. Look and listen closely and this may help: ruclips.net/video/nYnTfjPV-fA/видео.html Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed Thanks Tony, mine actually has the right orientation for the bleeding, which helps. i couldnt fit the block between the rear calipers and had to do it with the pads in. luckely it was a clean job.
Bikehand Repair Stand (about $120 on Amazon) or the Park Tool PCS-10.2 (about $250 on Amazon) would be at the top of my list (depends on how much you want to spend). If you do your own maintenance, you save this and more by not having it done at you're local shop. Even if you use the stand only for cleaning the drivetrain and lubricating the chain, the one time cost is minimal compared to the cost of the bicycle your riding. Any one else have any suggestions? Regards and safe cycling, Tony
No. Just be sure to clean and lubricate the seat post clamp at yearly maintenance. When you remove it from the stand after working on your bike, be sure to tighten the seat post clamp to manufacturers specs. Too loose and the seat post will slip while when you put your weight on the saddle. Too tight and you may damage the post or frame. I use a torque wrench to tighten the clamp.
@@robertosladic3430 Today, most bicycle manufacturers recommend clamping the seatpost, even when your bike has a dropper post. See: pedalchile.com/blog/repair-stand-clamp#:~:text=Today%2C%20most%20bicycle%20manufacturers%20recommend,bike%20has%20a%20dropper%20post. and the forum: www.reddit.com/r/MTB/comments/q7yj83/clamping_on_dropper_post/ However, I'd keep the following in mind: • Check the manufacturer's guidance: Some dropper posts may not like to be clamped. • Clean the clamp: Make sure the jaws of the clamp are clean. • Cover the jaws: Use a rag to cover the jaws of the clamp to avoid marking the seatpost. • Raise the post: Raise the post to its full height before lifting it into the stand. Regards, Tony
It's an all metal Park Tool add on for the all metal stand that allows adjustment of height. The clamp is lined with rubber to prevent scratching the seat post. The clamp and repair stand are over 25 years old and, unfortunately, no longer available. No plastic parts. Very durable and continues to serve me well.
The only one that I've seen available (other then a very expensive Pro Repair Stand) is the Bikehand e-Bike Repair Stand (max 110 lbs). For more details see: www.amazon.com/Bikehand-Bike-Repair-Stand-Maintenance/dp/B07R452R8K/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=ZVOO1RN2M0GB&keywords=bikehand+e+bike+repair+stand+max+110+lbs&qid=1658519698&sprefix=Bikehand+e%2Caps%2C115&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFMOFY4N1c3MFpVSk4mZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAzMzU4NDMyTEFTNjNQSk5DOVBGJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA4ODYwOTNLMFBQNDNFM05ZS1Ymd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
Not sure why you're using a carbon post on an aluminum frame. The question is, can one clamp a carbon seat post on a carbon frame? You can hold the bike by the carbon post if it's round (or your clamp can accommodate an aero seat post) and you clamp it gently, but you may scratch it unless you're very careful and the jaws of the repair stand clamp are safe (keep them clean of dirt and wrap a piece of wax paper around the seatpost to help prevent scratches). But your best bet is to buy an alloy or steel seat post (they're fairly cheap) and switch out the carbon for the alloy or steel post when working on your bike. See: brainybiker.com/can-you-clamp-a-carbon-seat-post/ Thanks for the question and safe cycling, Tony
Some bike stands have groves in the clamp to prevent bending or breaking the shift cables but you have to be so careful to make sure the cables are in the grove. Then there are stands that require you to take off the front wheel and mount using the fork and rear wheel. The problem with these is that it doesn't allow work on the front wheel, front breaks or headset. For the rest of the bike stands, it's always better to clamp the seatpost when possible. It's a learning experience and at least you didn't damage the frame. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Doing your own maintenance and repairs turns owing a bicycle into a job as far as I am concerned. I’ll do only the most minor maintenance tasks. Hardest part is holding the bike with one hand and clamping it with the other hand. Be sure to remove any heavy bike accessories-water bottles, panniers, tools, locks, pumps and other weighty equipment that’ll make the bike possibly too heavy or unwieldy to lift. Try not to abuse your bike when riding so there’ll be fewer things to repair. I created a simple, portable, and inexpensive platform two feet off the ground in front of my stand to place my bike on so I’ll have both hands free to do the clamping and alignment. Don’t want to hold a 45 pound bike a few feet off the floor with one hand and risk spraining my wrist or experiencing some other injury. My philosophy is to enjoy riding your bike and let a professional mechanic fix it.
Certainly your choice as it is for many cyclist. You mentioned that your bike weighs 45 lbs. Is this an ebike? If so, I can see your reluctance in fixing it yourself and the difficulty in putting up on a stand. Most road bike weigh under 20 lbs as well as many mountain bikes.
Long as your bikes not damaged, you can still prevent problems (especially with carbon fiber bikes). You can even carefully clamp a carbon post if you wrap the post with a cloth to prevent scratching and clamp it firmly but not tight. P.S. We're all learning something new every day (my self included). Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks! I had no idea,I've clamped the top tube all this time.
So have many others. You have to be most cautious with Carbon Fiber (see below) and some aluminum bikes. But the clamp can scratch the paint job or decals on any bike frame. My repair stand has rubberized lining to the clamp (a DIY project many years ago which may not work on all clamps) so that I can also clamp the seat tube (the tube that goes from the top tube down to the chainrings and crank). However, I prefer the seatpost for most maintenance and repairs and have marked the seat post with tape (and have a quick release seat post clamp) to make it easy to return the saddle to the correct height. ***Of importance is to make sure that the seat post clamp is tightened to manufactures specifications when one returns the saddle to the correct height.**
For those of you with carbon seat posts: You can hold the bike by the carbon post if it's round (or your clamp can accommodate an aero seat post) and you clamp it gently, but you may scratch it unless you're very careful and the jaws of the repair stand clamp are safe (keep them clean of dirt and wrap a piece of wax paper around the seat post to help prevent scratches). But your best bet is to buy an alloy or steel seat post (they're fairly cheap) and switch out the carbon for the alloy or steel post when working on your bike. See: brainybiker.com/can-you-clamp-a-carbon-seat-post/
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Hi Tony. Just found your channel and really like your straight to the point, no bs narrative.
This top tube vs seat post clamp discussion is eternal. My bike is aluminium, no external routing and the top tube is quite thin, so when i close the clamp it is just holding it, not squeezing it. What i find most advantageous of top tube clamping is that you barely need to actualy clamp it if the bike is resting on its center of gravity. Anyway, that's just my approach and since the clamp is all plastic with nylon lining, there is no damage risk from my point of view. Cheers
You're good technique is one of the exceptions. I recommend the seat post because I seen too many individual dent the aluminum or crack the carbon by overtightening the clamp and / or scratch the paint job because the clamp was not lined. Can you damage a carbon seat post by over clamping? Yes but at least you can easily replace the seat post as opposed the bike frame. Thanks for your comments and may all your maintenance and repairs go well. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
There is no risk of damaging the top tube by clamping it correctly.
Always excellent tips, Dr. Tony. I’m 62 and just started riding 1 1/2 years ago so I’ve got a ton to learn. I appreciate you and your channel.
Thank you. One never stops learning, including myself. That's what make this fun. Sometimes one makes mistakes, but that to is a learning event. Keep the brain active.
Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
At your age, there should not be any learning curve as you know that wrong decisions lead to a visit to the hurtspital.
Glad I watched this….I’m 53 and just got back into cycling and bought a repair stand to clean and maintenance…I was clamping it the top tube…..now I’ll know better…thank you sir
You're Welcome. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Instead of blue painter’s tape, I wrap a few turns (approx 1ft) of duct tape around the post just above binder bolt, and just leave it there. Not only is it a permanent insert depth guide, but also great for many roadside repairs.
I also got an old cheap 27.2 seat post that I leave on the repair stand, and brutally clamp onto that rather than raising and protecting my pretty/expensive post.
Using an old cheap seat post is a great approach, especially if the seat post is carbon fiber. The blue tape I'm using is not "painter's tape" but colored electrical tape (I have a variety of colors I use for different applications). Black Gorilla tape is probably the strongest (although I wouldn't use it on carbon fiber in case you ever want to remove it). Thanks for the tip on using the old cheap seat post. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
A simple solution to a complicated minds within us thank you for this ,,🥰
You're Welcome. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Hello from Ukraine Tony Marchand, thank you for your work.
You're welcome Ukraine and may support for all your hopes and dreams continue. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Good hack on extending the seat post.
Thanks Reid. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Well done video, Tony! I found it concise and informative.
Thank you. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Cheers Tony from Manchester UK. Short. Informative and sweet
Thank you. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Cheers for the USA and safe cycling, Tony
Thank you very much Tony for your advice much appreciated 👍
You're Welcome. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
can a seat post clamp mount and/or seat stay adapters holding a 10-30kg package at the rear rack damage the frame on on-off pavement bumps rides in city/ off roads?
You hit on a controversal point as noted in the following comments of this posting:
www.reddit.com/r/bikepacking/comments/1bbpmrz/safe_to_mount_to_carbon_frame/
I personally don't like the weight on the carbon fiber seat tube and/or carbon fiber chain stays alone and would rather see a axle mounted rack with stabiliztion on the seatpost. However, I'm not an expert in this area and would suggest more research and also to ask your local bike store for more advise. Regards, Tony
Are you able to peddle while the bike is on the stand .. incase we need to fix the gear?
Absolutely. This allows indexing front and rear derailleur cables, adjusting brakes and more. If you can not, you are severely when doing maintenance and repairs. If you're doing your own work, a good bike repair stand is worth the money.
Very helpful tip!!.. Thanks.! 👍👍
Thank you. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
? Here. That clamp on your repair stand looks perfect! Is it custom or part of the stand? Do you have a link?
Was specially made by Park Tools for my 25+ year old all steel Park bike stand. Unfortunately, it's no longer offered. Now, many of the stands have plastic parts and are not very stable. I get asked this question quite a bit and am still looking for something of equal quality and value. I'll publish my finding when I find an equivalent. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed honestly Tony, you probably will not find anything better than what you have without spending thousands of dollars.
on a very fancy seat post I'll spray it with furniture polish so it is slippery then wrap news paper. a twisting force will slip better than rubber/leather. not damage the decals or printing or finish as much. those leather pads get tiny aluminum particles over time that will scratch some posts.
Not sure what you mean about the furniture polish and newspaper, but sounds interesting. Haven't had problems with the lined clamps causing scratches on steal or carbon seatposts, but have since "rubberized" clamp head with an old mtb inner tube as shown in the video. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed the furniture polish makes the seatpost slippery.. and wrap the paper same as you did the towel.on those evt clamps a business card works good. this just in case the bike twists in the clamp. rubber/leather will wipe off the brand name print or the graduated markers more than scratch carbon or aluminum (that could be polished ).. but the printing on them is gone forever.
@@carnyshill684 Thanks for the clarification Carny. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@carnyshill684 Thanks Carny. Regards, Tony
thanks Tony. what will be the best way to have the rear wheel down and the handle bars up? i want to bleed the rear wheel and lever a little up the front part and only by the seatpost isnt working..thanks
Note how the bicycle is in the stand in the following video. Also note toward the end the need to remove the rear brake caliper. Look and listen closely and this may help:
ruclips.net/video/nYnTfjPV-fA/видео.html
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed Thanks Tony, mine actually has the right orientation for the bleeding, which helps. i couldnt fit the block between the rear calipers and had to do it with the pads in. luckely it was a clean job.
looking to buy a bike stand for my Trek Checkpoint SL6 gravel bike , do you have any recommendations please ??
Bikehand Repair Stand (about $120 on Amazon) or the Park Tool PCS-10.2 (about $250 on Amazon) would be at the top of my list (depends on how much you want to spend). If you do your own maintenance, you save this and more by not having it done at you're local shop. Even if you use the stand only for cleaning the drivetrain and lubricating the chain, the one time cost is minimal compared to the cost of the bicycle your riding. Any one else have any suggestions? Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Will you damage the seatpost by moving it up and down before or after clamping?
No. Just be sure to clean and lubricate the seat post clamp at yearly maintenance. When you remove it from the stand after working on your bike, be sure to tighten the seat post clamp to manufacturers specs. Too loose and the seat post will slip while when you put your weight on the saddle. Too tight and you may damage the post or frame. I use a torque wrench to tighten the clamp.
@@tony10speedwhat about dropper post ? It seems kore vulnerable than the frame itself.
@@robertosladic3430 Today, most bicycle manufacturers recommend clamping the seatpost, even when your bike has a dropper post. See:
pedalchile.com/blog/repair-stand-clamp#:~:text=Today%2C%20most%20bicycle%20manufacturers%20recommend,bike%20has%20a%20dropper%20post.
and the forum:
www.reddit.com/r/MTB/comments/q7yj83/clamping_on_dropper_post/
However, I'd keep the following in mind:
• Check the manufacturer's guidance: Some dropper posts may not like to be clamped.
• Clean the clamp: Make sure the jaws of the clamp are clean.
• Cover the jaws: Use a rag to cover the jaws of the clamp to avoid marking the seatpost.
• Raise the post: Raise the post to its full height before lifting it into the stand.
Regards, Tony
Good video ❤
Thank you. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
What red clamp head is that you're using? It's a nice one
It's an all metal Park Tool add on for the all metal stand that allows adjustment of height. The clamp is lined with rubber to prevent scratching the seat post. The clamp and repair stand are over 25 years old and, unfortunately, no longer available. No plastic parts. Very durable and continues to serve me well.
Do you recommend a heavy duty stand for ebikes?
The only one that I've seen available (other then a very expensive Pro Repair Stand) is the Bikehand e-Bike Repair Stand (max 110 lbs). For more details see:
www.amazon.com/Bikehand-Bike-Repair-Stand-Maintenance/dp/B07R452R8K/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=ZVOO1RN2M0GB&keywords=bikehand+e+bike+repair+stand+max+110+lbs&qid=1658519698&sprefix=Bikehand+e%2Caps%2C115&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFMOFY4N1c3MFpVSk4mZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAzMzU4NDMyTEFTNjNQSk5DOVBGJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA4ODYwOTNLMFBQNDNFM05ZS1Ymd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
Will a plastic clamp scratch or damage any decals?
Yes. Another reason for clamping the seat post as opposed to the frame.
What if the seatpost is Carbon and the frame is aluminium?
Not sure why you're using a carbon post on an aluminum frame. The question is, can one clamp a carbon seat post on a carbon frame? You can hold the bike by the carbon post if it's round (or your clamp can accommodate an aero seat post) and you clamp it gently, but you may scratch it unless you're very careful and the jaws of the repair stand clamp are safe (keep them clean of dirt and wrap a piece of wax paper around the seatpost to help prevent scratches). But your best bet is to buy an alloy or steel seat post (they're fairly cheap) and switch out the carbon for the alloy or steel post when working on your bike. See: brainybiker.com/can-you-clamp-a-carbon-seat-post/ Thanks for the question and safe cycling, Tony
Wish I watch this video first before using my new bike stand. I now know why my shifters cable is broken.
Some bike stands have groves in the clamp to prevent bending or breaking the shift cables but you have to be so careful to make sure the cables are in the grove. Then there are stands that require you to take off the front wheel and mount using the fork and rear wheel. The problem with these is that it doesn't allow work on the front wheel, front breaks or headset. For the rest of the bike stands, it's always better to clamp the seatpost when possible. It's a learning experience and at least you didn't damage the frame. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Doing your own maintenance and repairs turns owing a bicycle into a job as far as I am concerned. I’ll do only the most minor maintenance tasks. Hardest part is holding the bike with one hand and clamping it with the other hand. Be sure to remove any heavy bike accessories-water bottles, panniers, tools, locks, pumps and other weighty equipment that’ll make the bike possibly too heavy or unwieldy to lift. Try not to abuse your bike when riding so there’ll be fewer things to repair. I created a simple, portable, and inexpensive platform two feet off the ground in front of my stand to place my bike on so I’ll have both hands free to do the clamping and alignment. Don’t want to hold a 45 pound bike a few feet off the floor with one hand and risk spraining my wrist or experiencing some other injury. My philosophy is to enjoy riding your bike and let a professional mechanic fix it.
Certainly your choice as it is for many cyclist. You mentioned that your bike weighs 45 lbs. Is this an ebike? If so, I can see your reluctance in fixing it yourself and the difficulty in putting up on a stand. Most road bike weigh under 20 lbs as well as many mountain bikes.
@@tony10speed it’s a hybrid bike but setup almost like a touring bike. Out of the box the bike weighs around 25lbs. I added quite a few accessories.
@@dolittle6781 Thanks for you reply and comments. Safe cycling, Tony
Welp should’ve watch this first
Long as your bikes not damaged, you can still prevent problems (especially with carbon fiber bikes). You can even carefully clamp a carbon post if you wrap the post with a cloth to prevent scratching and clamp it firmly but not tight.
P.S. We're all learning something new every day (my self included). Regards and safe cycling, Tony
🫡🫡🚴🏼🚴🏼🚴🏼
Thank you. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony