Top-tier tutorial! Not only is this a great technique, it's a swiss-army-knife type setup to basically always have handy, and even if you have a more complex/elaborate setup that isn't working it's so confidence inspiring to know you can fall back on a simple, minimal setup.
Great video, Thank You. I have two questions... What if there are no light colored walls, and many times black ceilings. Can this technique with manual and ttl work with a large umbrella? Say a 60inch? Also how far from the bounce surface was the flash? Thanks Again!
Couple of things here: the truth is that not every situation is a good one to use this technique. Sometimes it just won't work. That doesn't mean it's not a good technique to have in the old tool box, right? That being said, I have rarely ever been in a situation on a location where there isn't any neutral colored surface to bounce off, most commercial spaces tend to go pretty neutral on wall colors. As an alternative, you could use a large umbrella, the light wouldn't likely be as soft, but it would work. The light was maybe 10 feet from the wall here :) Thanks for watching!
This is why I keep a big reflector (one of the 6'/people sized ones) in the car at all times, it's like a little portable wall you can either bounce off or shoot through. super quick to setup and very portable
Great question. I do believe that the camera and flash would come up with a slightly different recipe in that case. The camera might just adjust itself to a correct exposure and the flash would fire at a different power level. Your exposure would likely be correct but the lighting ratio would be different :)
Does not make sens to me, the "locked into underexpose.." with "TTL knows" etc. That flashing direction thing : sure agree, the "softness (spreading) thing. But that is ONE thing. The other : If now You exposed "correctly although jet without flashing (meaning not "too dark" as you choose), but then do add TTL-flash, that would simply "flash less (to compensate for)", since you already manually locked sufficient light. Thus; (and you still leave the flash orientation as is, meaning "not bang on to the subject") it would/will be even less "a flashed face". The more You manually, do not expose enough, the more the TTL induced compensation will be visible (the "flash"). Say you underexpose by 5 stops : you'll "feel the flash in the picture", for sure. Wouldn't You. However if You overexposed by only 1, the (TTL-flash will still fire "a littlr" thus perhaps only lighten up a bit the darker areas (not saying it will be perfect, only debunking...).
Top-tier tutorial! Not only is this a great technique, it's a swiss-army-knife type setup to basically always have handy, and even if you have a more complex/elaborate setup that isn't working it's so confidence inspiring to know you can fall back on a simple, minimal setup.
GARY!!!! lets GOOOOO
Just trying to use TTL like you!
Really enjoyed this tutorial. Very straight forward and the results are stunning. Going to try this out. Thanks again!
Thank you
:)
Great video, Thank You. I have two questions... What if there are no light colored walls, and many times black ceilings. Can this technique with manual and ttl work with a large umbrella? Say a 60inch? Also how far from the bounce surface was the flash? Thanks Again!
great questions! i look forward to gary's response. (and if you don't know gary's headshot work, his YT channel is fabulous!)
Couple of things here: the truth is that not every situation is a good one to use this technique. Sometimes it just won't work. That doesn't mean it's not a good technique to have in the old tool box, right? That being said, I have rarely ever been in a situation on a location where there isn't any neutral colored surface to bounce off, most commercial spaces tend to go pretty neutral on wall colors. As an alternative, you could use a large umbrella, the light wouldn't likely be as soft, but it would work. The light was maybe 10 feet from the wall here :) Thanks for watching!
@@smalltalk.productions9977 thank you! Happy that you found me here too :)
This is why I keep a big reflector (one of the 6'/people sized ones) in the car at all times, it's like a little portable wall you can either bounce off or shoot through. super quick to setup and very portable
Does this work in aperture priority ?
Great question. I do believe that the camera and flash would come up with a slightly different recipe in that case. The camera might just adjust itself to a correct exposure and the flash would fire at a different power level. Your exposure would likely be correct but the lighting ratio would be different :)
@ thank you
Are you bouncing the light to the side, not behind you?
Does not make sens to me, the "locked into underexpose.." with "TTL knows" etc.
That flashing direction thing : sure agree, the "softness (spreading) thing. But that is ONE thing.
The other : If now You exposed "correctly although jet without flashing (meaning not "too dark" as you choose), but then do add TTL-flash, that would simply "flash less (to compensate for)", since you already manually locked sufficient light. Thus; (and you still leave the flash orientation as is, meaning "not bang on to the subject") it would/will be even less "a flashed face".
The more You manually, do not expose enough, the more the TTL induced compensation will be visible (the "flash"). Say you underexpose by 5 stops : you'll "feel the flash in the picture", for sure. Wouldn't You.
However if You overexposed by only 1, the (TTL-flash will still fire "a littlr" thus perhaps only lighten up a bit the darker areas (not saying it will be perfect, only debunking...).