As a postscript to this, a few people have asked about Work VSKFs and Work VS series wheels in general. VSMX, VSXX, etc are all not welded because the bolts go all the way around and they are nice and close together. But VSKFs are welded. This is because there is a gap in the bolts under the spokes. Some VSKFs have a couple of bolts under the spokes but are still welded. This is because those underspoke bolts are only screwed into alloy. As I said in the vid, wheel manufacturers aren't idiots. They do countless hours of testing in the lab and they get feedback from real world situations. It's pretty simple:- if the manufacturer has welded up the wheel, that is how the wheel should be.
Love it how most of the big state side wheel joints don't weld bigger size wheels. Seen a few posts of peoples 17-19 inch wheels just having lips cut off and new ones bolted on. Scary to think that people are willing to drive around on 17-19 inch wheels with 20 or so bolts holding it all together.
The bolt gap under the spokes is the problem. I'll give you an example. Work VS wheels, VSMX, VSXX etc, not welded. VSKF on the other hand are welded. Same lip and barrel sets, but there is a bolt gap under the spokes. The later ones came with a couple of extra bolts that screw into the back of the spoke but they are still welded because those bolts are screwing into alloy not a steel nut.
I know it’s a old video but whats your thoughts on not welding a 18” ssr agle strusse that has 20x holes on the face? Ideally what is your take on what the minimum spacing should be between fasteners where it is ok to not have the wheel welded? Cheers
15" step type is about as big as you can go unwelded with 20 bolts. Agle Strusses are reverse type, and they have gaps in the bolts where the spokes are. The large gap between the bolts means the lip/barrel can move, which will cause metal fatigue and cracking. It won't happen straight away but it will definitely happen. It's a ticking time bomb, only a matter of time. I've seen stuff cracked after only a couple of weeks.
@@BarrelBros I appreciate your input, I wish to one day be as knowledgeable as you are! It’s pretty scary to think that there are certain people I have seen re lip their wheels similar to the strusse, and not re weld them. Speaking of welds, is tig welding the most preferred way to do onto wheels to prevent warping? I guess warping comes down to heat settings on the welder I suppose
I have 18" SSR Koenig 40 hole wheels. The last owner split them and didn't reweld (he sealed the barrel gap with silicon), judging by your video the bolt gap is small enough where that should still be quite strong?
Those little Bridgestones are pretty cool, and they aren't welded from factory. It's about the gap between the bolts. Those have a large bolt and a small centre, the bolt gap is only small so fine to be not welded.
SSR mesh are a bit of a tricky one. Formula Mesh (step lip) in 15" are fine to run unwelded. Reverse Mesh (flat lip) in 15" are a bit past the comfort zone so for safety we weld them. Again it's about the bolt gap. These have 20 bolts so the bigger the centre, the further apart from each other the bolts are, because physics.
As a postscript to this, a few people have asked about Work VSKFs and Work VS series wheels in general.
VSMX, VSXX, etc are all not welded because the bolts go all the way around and they are nice and close together.
But VSKFs are welded.
This is because there is a gap in the bolts under the spokes.
Some VSKFs have a couple of bolts under the spokes but are still welded.
This is because those underspoke bolts are only screwed into alloy.
As I said in the vid, wheel manufacturers aren't idiots.
They do countless hours of testing in the lab and they get feedback from real world situations.
It's pretty simple:- if the manufacturer has welded up the wheel, that is how the wheel should be.
Love it how most of the big state side wheel joints don't weld bigger size wheels. Seen a few posts of peoples 17-19 inch wheels just having lips cut off and new ones bolted on. Scary to think that people are willing to drive around on 17-19 inch wheels with 20 or so bolts holding it all together.
I run no bolts - much lightener :)
Racing spec.
I know this is an old video but wondering if Ssr Vienna g luck are fine to rebuild unwelded? Their 16” faces with 23 bolt holes
The bolt gap under the spokes is the problem.
I'll give you an example.
Work VS wheels, VSMX, VSXX etc, not welded.
VSKF on the other hand are welded.
Same lip and barrel sets, but there is a bolt gap under the spokes.
The later ones came with a couple of extra bolts that screw into the back of the spoke but they are still welded because those bolts are screwing into alloy not a steel nut.
weld them up yourself... get your mate to weld them... get barrelbros to weld them!
I know it’s a old video but whats your thoughts on not welding a 18” ssr agle strusse that has 20x holes on the face? Ideally what is your take on what the minimum spacing should be between fasteners where it is ok to not have the wheel welded? Cheers
20 bolts on an 18"?
Definitely needs welding.
Bolt gap should be about 25mm with no gaps.
@@BarrelBros Thanks for the tip! Appreciate your help cheers
15" step type is about as big as you can go unwelded with 20 bolts.
Agle Strusses are reverse type, and they have gaps in the bolts where the spokes are.
The large gap between the bolts means the lip/barrel can move, which will cause metal fatigue and cracking.
It won't happen straight away but it will definitely happen.
It's a ticking time bomb, only a matter of time.
I've seen stuff cracked after only a couple of weeks.
@@BarrelBros I appreciate your input, I wish to one day be as knowledgeable as you are! It’s pretty scary to think that there are certain people I have seen re lip their wheels similar to the strusse, and not re weld them. Speaking of welds, is tig welding the most preferred way to do onto wheels to prevent warping? I guess warping comes down to heat settings on the welder I suppose
Yep, tig welding is what we always use.
I have 18" SSR Koenig 40 hole wheels. The last owner split them and didn't reweld (he sealed the barrel gap with silicon), judging by your video the bolt gap is small enough where that should still be quite strong?
Yep, should be okay.
@@BarrelBros local wheel builder recommends upgrading to M7 bolts. Do you know if the holes need to be tapped for those?
@@BarrelBros thanks for the fast response!
I'd definitely upgrade to 7mm. Much stronger bolt. Basically just drill the holes out to suit. Easy as pie.
my 13x6 bridgestone 3pc are 12bolt not welded
Those little Bridgestones are pretty cool, and they aren't welded from factory.
It's about the gap between the bolts. Those have a large bolt and a small centre, the bolt gap is only small so fine to be not welded.
Hey are those ssr mesh wheels welded or just sealed? Thinking about relipping mines but they’re welded. Could I just reseal or have to reweld?
SSR mesh are a bit of a tricky one. Formula Mesh (step lip) in 15" are fine to run unwelded. Reverse Mesh (flat lip) in 15" are a bit past the comfort zone so for safety we weld them. Again it's about the bolt gap. These have 20 bolts so the bigger the centre, the further apart from each other the bolts are, because physics.
I've seen a lot of wheels being rebuilt recently and not welded. It's scary to think anyone is driving around on an unwelded 12j with 12 bolts in it 😱
Time and leverage will do the dirty work.
Baye them up
?
@@BarrelBros listen to the vocals