Your videos are always perfect. Great angles, so you can see exactly what's being done; and great instructions ( even telling us the nut sizes which is my favorite thing lol ).
They make it look so easy in the video. Yea....getting the bottom bolt off of the front strut on a 25 year old Fox....I have PB blastered the hell out of it and used a Torque gun. Still not budging. Then when I thought I need the car and cannot complete the project right now, I broke a brake caliper bolt. FML lol.
I know this is and old thread but still priceless info; a couple shots of kroil or any other break free spray the night before or at least maybe an hour before you want to start this job, and then, when ready, using a 1/2" breaker bar with a length of pipe over the end of the breaker bar will give you more leverage and torque than just the breaker bar alone. Or a couple long "interlinked" (end to end) wrenches would be the second best option. Hope this helps
I was very skeptical about these struts/shocks since everyone online (including me) swears up and down that unless it's Koni, Bilstein, or Tokico then it's junk. I actually had Tokico Illumina 5-ways on the car and have had them for a little over 15 years. I never liked the Tokicos. I figured for the money these would be worth a try. Here's the honest truth. I've owned my '88 GT since brand new and have had many other foxes. This kit is exactly what it's made for, stock replacement. This was what I was looking for. They don't make the car feel unstable on the freeway and they are adequate on a curvy road. A huge factor for me since I'm older now is I was tired of a bone-jarring ride. These are NOT harsh. They don't make the car ride like a Lincoln but they are good for me. As long as they last and don't start leaking I'll say I'm very happy with them. The single best thing I've done to help ride quality for me was MM full length subs from LMR....the seat supports are awesome. I could not believe how many rattles they eliminated.
Hey Wayne, i know this is a old comment but just wanted to say, i have the same situation you have, Ive had a few of these cars and i have a 91 GT that Ive owned since new, it is a Convertible and i know all about them (rattle and twisting etc) and all that however when the car was newer it had a a great ride i loved,as the car got older of course the ride just got from bad to worse,well about a year ago i installed Bilsteins all around,a new steering rack and and a new pump, put it on the ground and i was heartbroken,the ride didn't improve hardly at all,i guess the bilsteins are too harsh? i was wanting to try something new and i read your comment,i was wondering about those KYB adjustables or would that be a waste of money and get this (whats on the video) instead? i have a rear and front strut tower brace,not really wanting to do subframe connectors but i will eventually and i know i should had done that waaay back then, anyhow thank you for your time, my name is Carlos BTW
I’ve tried all of these methods but one factor that doesn’t make it possible to remove the bolt is the strut shaft spinning in the cylinder, and there’s no where to grab onto the shaft to keep it still. Would this mean I have to resort to a nut splitter?
@@rushbullet892 Where did you order the struts? If you purchased them from us, give us a call so we can assist you. To elaborate more on the issue, 79-93 4-cylinder cars and 79-86 V8 cars used the same spindle. It had a wider ear where the strut attaches. 87-93 V8 cars had a different spindle to accommodate the 11" front rotors and had a thinner ear where the strut attaches. -Landan Checkout the article we wrote covering this topic: lmr.com/products/what-is-the-difference-between-fox-body-spindles
Exactly! for the rear shocks too! Mine were seized and had to heat them up after PB Blasting the crap out of em. Strippd the slot with my big screw driver and finally had to use a thick Chisel to hold in the slot with Vice Grips and then turn the bolt.
coming from a person without the funds for an impact gun, i just used a dremmel to shear the whole top nut off since the new strut should come with its own nut anyway doesn't look as clean but its just as functional
If the strut shaft is slotted, use a large flathead screwdriver to hold it while you loosen the nut. Also, pulsating an impact gun can help as well. If all else fails, you'll have to use a nut splitter. Good luck! -Landan
Ok so between these and the Koni oranges, what’s the difference? Are they both about the same in ride quality and handling? Thank you for the info. Trying to decide on what I want for my ‘93 LX 5.0
On paper, the Koni "Oranges" would be slightly better than the KYB shocks/struts shown in this video. I've driven cars with both options that are being discussed and you're splitting hairs on which is better. -Landan
If you purchased the upper strut mount bushing kit that provides the spacer, we recommend using that one. The difference in spacer length is more threads being available. There isn't much of a difference when installing them.
I understand where you're coming from. "Easy" depends on a few factors. Equipment selection, skill level, and even the condition of the car will play a role in the complexity of the procedure. -Landan
Your videos are always perfect. Great angles, so you can see exactly what's being done; and great instructions ( even telling us the nut sizes which is my favorite thing lol ).
Thank you very much, Jon!
Thank you super helpful. Me and my dad are working on a 1987 mustang 5.0 fox body and we struggled until we found your video
I’m so glad I found this channel I’m restoring an 88 mustang hatchback and doing a 5.0 swap on it these videos are invaluble to me
Dave - We're glad you found us, too! Let us know if you have any questions. -Landan
Perfect! I only wish I had a lift! Did many jobs on the ground in the dirt.
Just got my KYBs installed today… I’m running cut springs and man!!! It’s a night and day difference, thanks for the video guys!
Now how did you get them off? My front struts are spinning the shaft in the cylinder and making it impossible to take the nut off
@@sto1asgoetia600 it might be seized in there, do you have a impact?
They make it look so easy in the video. Yea....getting the bottom bolt off of the front strut on a 25 year old Fox....I have PB blastered the hell out of it and used a Torque gun. Still not budging. Then when I thought I need the car and cannot complete the project right now, I broke a brake caliper bolt. FML lol.
I have an 83 Tbird. Heat and a 3/4 ratchet worked wonders on the lower bolts
I know this is and old thread but still priceless info; a couple shots of kroil or any other break free spray the night before or at least maybe an hour before you want to start this job, and then, when ready, using a 1/2" breaker bar with a length of pipe over the end of the breaker bar will give you more leverage and torque than just the breaker bar alone. Or a couple long "interlinked" (end to end) wrenches would be the second best option. Hope this helps
I'm doing this now, that lower 24mm nut is a NIGHTMARE
I was very skeptical about these struts/shocks since everyone online (including me) swears up and down that unless it's Koni, Bilstein, or Tokico then it's junk. I actually had Tokico Illumina 5-ways on the car and have had them for a little over 15 years. I never liked the Tokicos. I figured for the money these would be worth a try. Here's the honest truth. I've owned my '88 GT since brand new and have had many other foxes. This kit is exactly what it's made for, stock replacement. This was what I was looking for. They don't make the car feel unstable on the freeway and they are adequate on a curvy road. A huge factor for me since I'm older now is I was tired of a bone-jarring ride. These are NOT harsh. They don't make the car ride like a Lincoln but they are good for me. As long as they last and don't start leaking I'll say I'm very happy with them. The single best thing I've done to help ride quality for me was MM full length subs from LMR....the seat supports are awesome. I could not believe how many rattles they eliminated.
Hey Wayne, i know this is a old comment but just wanted to say, i have the same situation you have, Ive had a few of these cars and i have a 91 GT that Ive owned since new, it is a Convertible and i know all about them (rattle and twisting etc) and all that however when the car was newer it had a a great ride i loved,as the car got older of course the ride just got from bad to worse,well about a year ago i installed Bilsteins all around,a new steering rack and and a new pump, put it on the ground and i was heartbroken,the ride didn't improve hardly at all,i guess the bilsteins are too harsh? i was wanting to try something new and i read your comment,i was wondering about those KYB adjustables or would that be a waste of money and get this (whats on the video) instead? i have a rear and front strut tower brace,not really wanting to do subframe connectors but i will eventually and i know i should had done that waaay back then, anyhow thank you for your time, my name is Carlos BTW
@@dntlss did you get KYB gas-a-just? I have an 83 GT and looking to replace the rears, did it help ride quality?
Ya'll make the best videos!
Thanks! -Landan
Im literally about to buy these as a kit.
DO IT!
would it not make sense to give torque specs, in stead of just tighten them?
Tighten then jokers right. I’m sure you know how to feel for it
This project is going down soon ....kits on its way !!!!!
Thank you!! Very helpful
You guys don’t give any torque specs On any bolts . At the very end it shows him torquing the bolts back on the wheels but no torque specs .
I’ve tried all of these methods but one factor that doesn’t make it possible to remove the bolt is the strut shaft spinning in the cylinder, and there’s no where to grab onto the shaft to keep it still. Would this mean I have to resort to a nut splitter?
Yep! -Landan
If using SVE caster camber plates, do I keep all the bumstops the same way you just installed them?
You guys rock
Do you guys use any grease on the upper strut poly bushings? Cant find a solid answer anywhere but feels wrong putting them in dry.
Using the correct grease won't hurt. Make sure it's the grease that is recommended by the manufacturer. -Landan
For some reason my new front shocks are too thin where the bolt holes are supposed to go
Are you referring to the ear of the spindle where the strut attaches? -Landan
@@latemodelrestoration yes, that's what I'm referring to
@@rushbullet892 Where did you order the struts? If you purchased them from us, give us a call so we can assist you. To elaborate more on the issue, 79-93 4-cylinder cars and 79-86 V8 cars used the same spindle. It had a wider ear where the strut attaches. 87-93 V8 cars had a different spindle to accommodate the 11" front rotors and had a thinner ear where the strut attaches. -Landan
Checkout the article we wrote covering this topic: lmr.com/products/what-is-the-difference-between-fox-body-spindles
@@latemodelrestoration this helped a lot thank you very much
Do you have a recomendation for a 95 Mustang GT 500
James - A recommendation for what? Shock and struts? Thanks. -Landan
Should really add how to remove the nut on top of the strut. Not as simple as you guys make it seems
Exactly! for the rear shocks too! Mine were seized and had to heat them up after PB Blasting the crap out of em. Strippd the slot with my big screw driver and finally had to use a thick Chisel to hold in the slot with Vice Grips and then turn the bolt.
Impact....
coming from a person without the funds for an impact gun, i just used a dremmel to shear the whole top nut off since the new strut should come with its own nut anyway
doesn't look as clean but its just as functional
I can't break the top nut loose to even get it out... I've tried everything... anyone got any ideas
If the strut shaft is slotted, use a large flathead screwdriver to hold it while you loosen the nut. Also, pulsating an impact gun can help as well. If all else fails, you'll have to use a nut splitter. Good luck! -Landan
@latemodelrestoration yea that's the route I'm going to have to take thanks for the reply
Ok so between these and the Koni oranges, what’s the difference? Are they both about the same in ride quality and handling?
Thank you for the info. Trying to decide on what I want for my ‘93 LX 5.0
On paper, the Koni "Oranges" would be slightly better than the KYB shocks/struts shown in this video. I've driven cars with both options that are being discussed and you're splitting hairs on which is better. -Landan
@@latemodelrestoration Thank you for the reply. I actually placed my order last night, for the kyb’s.
You guys are awesome!!
@@dm7097 You're welcome! Glad we could help. Thank you for your business! -Landan
Do i use the smaller spacer provided or do i use the original longer one as shown in the vid?
What are the differences if either can be used?
If you purchased the upper strut mount bushing kit that provides the spacer, we recommend using that one. The difference in spacer length is more threads being available. There isn't much of a difference when installing them.
Is LMR item# PT-61213BL the right kit for Excel G Strut?
Yes, that kit will work!
Don’t believe it’s that easy to install front shocks… 😢
I understand where you're coming from. "Easy" depends on a few factors. Equipment selection, skill level, and even the condition of the car will play a role in the complexity of the procedure. -Landan