brother! around 4:09 i witnessed the coolest thing, as i have fought those little bastard rubber retainers for years!!! thank you friend....keep doing what you do, by the way, cool jams
Where can I find that orange check valve in the accelerator pump? Cleaned mine out and that fell apart then I tried to get it out and messed up the white plastic it presses into
8:40 Sudennly the brass choke butterfly are out but you didnt show how you removed the two bastard screws holding them in. I had to drill one of thes out last time because it snapped of trying to remove it. Do you have a solution to getting them out? They are the couter sunk screws that have had the end of them punched down so as to distort the thead.
Hello, thx for this great video ! "Cone should face the pump" Can you be more descriptive about that please ? I guess the little hole faces the pump ? is that correct ?
What do you think the problem could be if the rpm out the water on my seadoo 96 xp 800 starts off at 3000 then rapidly starts to decrease and won’t accelerate anymore
It’s hard to say without being there in person and diagnosing it. Always start with the three basics… fuel, spark, compression. Then ask yourself when was the last time your carbs were cleaned and rebuilt. Do you still have the original grey fuel lines?
@@2-smoke I don’t know what the problem was but it was definitely something to do with the carbs I just changed out everything in them and cleaned them and they run fine now
Also we have one more problem the linkage when idle tends to slowly move forward without pulling throttle I don’t know if that’s only happening because I am on land or something is wrong it.
Curious, is the T for the fuel lines just a standard one? My pto side carb isn’t getting fuel into the short line but it’s just going to the magneto carb, pulled it off and it’s not clogged. Any idea how to deal with that?
I wanna say I figured it out, I think I had a leak in the crankcase pressure line. Both sides are getting fuel and I’m going to tune it according to your video at the lake tomorrow. Thanks for the reply you definitely got a sub from me, also mines a grey ghost too but I got like 2.5 minutes out on the water after buying it and blew the motor up lol
First, off I use 2.0 n/s for all stock 951 carbs. There are 1 or 2 models that use 80 pilots. But, the real reason you should use 80s is because 951 engines crave fuel especially when generating low end torque. Seadoo dropped the pilot size from 80 to 75 after 1998 because of the need to pass EPA emissions tests. The tests are done at idle rpms.. so seadoo’s answer was to lean out the idle by lowering the pilot jet size… they figured the accl pump will prevent any hesitations on take-off.
Opening the low or high speed adjuster screws will richen the fuel-air mixture. But I doubt thats why you cant rev past 4000 rpms. If your carbs were insanely rich, you would be fouling plugs quickly. I would look at checking the following: Oil pump is hooked up, working properly (not clogged); MPEM and Voltage Regulator; Double check your carb settings. Should be factory. Do you know what size jets you have? Just food for thought...
@@2-smoke I bought this ski couple months ago supposedly ran got it home throttle cable was broke at the oil injection pump put a new cable on started it wouldnt idle acted like it was half trottle, problem was the throttle butterfly and throttle shaft was bent on the flywheel side of the motor got a used carb rebuilt both carbs and ran it today on the lake seemed to run rich to me and plugs were wet
@@sprintcardriver8 there’s a lot to unwind here… lol, because I’m not physically seeing and working on it, it’s hard for me to give you further direction.
@@2-smoke I guess I will have to check the high speed needles to make sure there 0 turns out my lows were at 1 1/2 never checked pop off pressure after rebuild used the same springs that were in the carb before rebuilding them and go from there
Also jets sizes should be stock because it has the stock spark arrestor on it, need to make sure my rave valves are opening and I don't have a check valve bad
I'm a little confused by the message you included in the video at the 3:04 mark. At this stage, you are taking apart the fuel inlet side (opposite side of the fuel accelerator) of the PTO carb, and the message seems to indicate the clear plastic and black diaphragms aren't needed and shouldn't have been used. I have the parts, service, and mukuni manuals, and I can't find any mention that these aren't needed. In fact, they all seem to suggest otherwise. Can you clarify your comment in the video?
Hello. The non fuel pump side does not require diaphragms. Both BRP and Mikuni service manuals do not provide any indication that diaphragms are used on the non fuel pump side (PTO side for most. The 97.5 GSXL is the only set up I can think of where the fuel pump is set up on the PTO carb). Also, when you buy any genuine Mikuni rebuild kit, you are provided diaphragms only for the fuel pump assembly. This is clearly evident in the micro fiches provided by Mikuni in the package. I am confused why you think they suggest otherwise. Looking at the anatomy and physiology of the design, fuel needs only to travel from the fuel inlet and then through the filter or through the out-fitting (to the other carb). The formed O-Ring and the aluminum casting is all that is required to create a nice seal. Hope this helps.
@@2-smoke Thanks for your reply! This is good info. I think some of the confusion is that Mukuni sells only one rebuild kit. When you buy two of them to rebuild both carbs, it'll have two sets of them. I have the micro fiches from the Mukuni kits, but it doesn't mention the carbs may be rebuilt differently. I ultimately fault Sea Doo for this as I think they should have mentioned it in the service manual. I think when you look at the micro fiches that are included, and it shows the diaphragm and gasket going over the o'ring and fuel filter, it leads one to believe both carbs would get the same treatment. I've also watched every carb rebuild video on RUclips I could find, and no one has mentioned this, until your video. In fact, most simply indicate or imply that you build both carbs the same way! I've also read a lot of rebuild threads on the forums, and I don't remember anyone mentioning either. Nonetheless, it's good info, so thanks for sharing!
Also, do you think it does any damage to use them (ie. alter the performance of the carb), or are you simply just wasting the diaphragm and gasket by using them?
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Floss trick - Genius!
Great video, where do you get your rebuild parts from?
www.osdparts.com
brother! around 4:09 i witnessed the coolest thing, as i have fought those little bastard rubber retainers for years!!! thank you friend....keep doing what you do,
by the way, cool jams
So intricate. Nice work. Thanks for sharing!
This was very helpful! Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Where can I find that orange check valve in the accelerator pump? Cleaned mine out and that fell apart then I tried to get it out and messed up the white plastic it presses into
The orange check valve is discontinued. You can’t really find it anywhere. If I were you I would just buy a square body accelerator pump.
Where did you get the rebuild kit from Im tryna rebuild mine before the middle of June. Thanks 🙏
I have a 1999 seadoo gsx limited with 951
Also where did you get your pressure tester from.
www.osdparts.com for kit.
The tester is from SBT.
Hi, the are same carbs than 2001 model? Can you tell me what products are you using and where I can find remplacement parts?
These carbs are the same on every other 951 model.
www.osdparts.com
Do you know the size of the hole in the recharge jet? Its missing in my used carbs and I cant find the jet available online.
@@asthekilnturns6880 please watch my Mikuni accelerator pump video I just posted, that will give you all of the information.
8:40 Sudennly the brass choke butterfly are out but you didnt show how you removed the two bastard screws holding them in. I had to drill one of thes out last time because it snapped of trying to remove it. Do you have a solution to getting them out? They are the couter sunk screws that have had the end of them punched down so as to distort the thead.
This is how you remove the peened screws. ruclips.net/user/shortsKYe-RboHoco?si=CO0803DeJtWLtWCG
I need a carburetor cleaning like this How much does it cost, Where is it located
Where does my pressure test hose go? What hoses do I block?
Hello, thx for this great video ! "Cone should face the pump" Can you be more descriptive about that please ? I guess the little hole faces the pump ? is that correct ?
The recharge jet is cone shaped. The cone should be facing the direction of the accelerator pump.
What would you charge to do mine from gsx ltd 951 im having major running issues
@@dwanetune4387 please reach out to my via my fb page
Where did you order this kit?
Just ordered one for my 97 gtx limited and the diaphragm gaskets were to small
www.osdparts.com
What do you think the problem could be if the rpm out the water on my seadoo 96 xp 800 starts off at 3000 then rapidly starts to decrease and won’t accelerate anymore
It’s hard to say without being there in person and diagnosing it. Always start with the three basics… fuel, spark, compression. Then ask yourself when was the last time your carbs were cleaned and rebuilt. Do you still have the original grey fuel lines?
@@2-smoke I don’t know what the problem was but it was definitely something to do with the carbs I just changed out everything in them and cleaned them and they run fine now
Also we have one more problem the linkage when idle tends to slowly move forward without pulling throttle I don’t know if that’s only happening because I am on land or something is wrong it.
Curious, is the T for the fuel lines just a standard one? My pto side carb isn’t getting fuel into the short line but it’s just going to the magneto carb, pulled it off and it’s not clogged. Any idea how to deal with that?
You probably have a crack in the line going to the pto carb or maybe the injector is clogged.
I wanna say I figured it out, I think I had a leak in the crankcase pressure line. Both sides are getting fuel and I’m going to tune it according to your video at the lake tomorrow. Thanks for the reply you definitely got a sub from me, also mines a grey ghost too but I got like 2.5 minutes out on the water after buying it and blew the motor up lol
What would you charge to do mine off gsx ltd 98 951
Any solution to a broken small umbrella check valve (red) for the fuel accelerator pump? I can’t find a replacement anywhere.
@@brandonfrancesconi-tn6gj send me a message through my Facebook page. I am the only person that sources them.
@@2-smoke great! What’s your Facebook account url?
@@2-smoke what’s your Facebook page called?
@@brandonfrancesconi-tn6gj 2-smoke carb rebuilding
Questions I have the same ski as you I can't get it over 5300rpm is 120 psi to low
1:48 Is that the idle adjust screw?
@@drysj yes
Why do you use 80 on the pilot Jet every where I looked it’s 75
Which needle and seats 1.8 or 2.0?
First, off I use 2.0 n/s for all stock 951 carbs. There are 1 or 2 models that use 80 pilots. But, the real reason you should use 80s is because 951 engines crave fuel especially when generating low end torque. Seadoo dropped the pilot size from 80 to 75 after 1998 because of the need to pass EPA emissions tests. The tests are done at idle rpms.. so seadoo’s answer was to lean out the idle by lowering the pilot jet size… they figured the accl pump will prevent any hesitations on take-off.
@@2-smoke thanks
well done!!
Thanks for watching!
What size recharge jet is that ??
What would happen if the recharge jet wasnt installed?
Ski might stall/shut off due to fuel starvation.
1.000.000 likes tks
What would cause these carbs to run overly rich and not want to rev past 4000 rpm
Opening the low or high speed adjuster screws will richen the fuel-air mixture. But I doubt thats why you cant rev past 4000 rpms. If your carbs were insanely rich, you would be fouling plugs quickly. I would look at checking the following: Oil pump is hooked up, working properly (not clogged); MPEM and Voltage Regulator; Double check your carb settings. Should be factory. Do you know what size jets you have? Just food for thought...
@@2-smoke I bought this ski couple months ago supposedly ran got it home throttle cable was broke at the oil injection pump put a new cable on started it wouldnt idle acted like it was half trottle, problem was the throttle butterfly and throttle shaft was bent on the flywheel side of the motor got a used carb rebuilt both carbs and ran it today on the lake seemed to run rich to me and plugs were wet
@@sprintcardriver8 there’s a lot to unwind here… lol, because I’m not physically seeing and working on it, it’s hard for me to give you further direction.
@@2-smoke I guess I will have to check the high speed needles to make sure there 0 turns out my lows were at 1 1/2 never checked pop off pressure after rebuild used the same springs that were in the carb before rebuilding them and go from there
Also jets sizes should be stock because it has the stock spark arrestor on it, need to make sure my rave valves are opening and I don't have a check valve bad
Awesome but white zip ties?
The zip ties are not exposed to light so white is appropriate.
I'm a little confused by the message you included in the video at the 3:04 mark. At this stage, you are taking apart the fuel inlet side (opposite side of the fuel accelerator) of the PTO carb, and the message seems to indicate the clear plastic and black diaphragms aren't needed and shouldn't have been used. I have the parts, service, and mukuni manuals, and I can't find any mention that these aren't needed. In fact, they all seem to suggest otherwise. Can you clarify your comment in the video?
Hello. The non fuel pump side does not require diaphragms. Both BRP and Mikuni service manuals do not provide any indication that diaphragms are used on the non fuel pump side (PTO side for most. The 97.5 GSXL is the only set up I can think of where the fuel pump is set up on the PTO carb). Also, when you buy any genuine Mikuni rebuild kit, you are provided diaphragms only for the fuel pump assembly. This is clearly evident in the micro fiches provided by Mikuni in the package. I am confused why you think they suggest otherwise. Looking at the anatomy and physiology of the design, fuel needs only to travel from the fuel inlet and then through the filter or through the out-fitting (to the other carb). The formed O-Ring and the aluminum casting is all that is required to create a nice seal. Hope this helps.
@@2-smoke Thanks for your reply! This is good info. I think some of the confusion is that Mukuni sells only one rebuild kit. When you buy two of them to rebuild both carbs, it'll have two sets of them. I have the micro fiches from the Mukuni kits, but it doesn't mention the carbs may be rebuilt differently. I ultimately fault Sea Doo for this as I think they should have mentioned it in the service manual. I think when you look at the micro fiches that are included, and it shows the diaphragm and gasket going over the o'ring and fuel filter, it leads one to believe both carbs would get the same treatment.
I've also watched every carb rebuild video on RUclips I could find, and no one has mentioned this, until your video. In fact, most simply indicate or imply that you build both carbs the same way! I've also read a lot of rebuild threads on the forums, and I don't remember anyone mentioning either.
Nonetheless, it's good info, so thanks for sharing!
Also, do you think it does any damage to use them (ie. alter the performance of the carb), or are you simply just wasting the diaphragm and gasket by using them?
god
I need a carburetor cleaning like this How much does it cost, Where is it located
Please reach out to me through my Facebook business page.