I do autobody and paint professionally and I have a few tips for people that this video either didn’t touch on or did incorrectly, so before primer sand to 150, before base sand to 400, not 800. And a red scotchbrite can be used to help prep before primer, and a black one before base, it will help get in the nooks and crannies. And this is extremely important and he forgot to do it. PRIMER THE WINDOW SEAL AREA. If you don’t you will get moisture in there and it will ruin the seal overtime and can get into the fiberglass hardtop. Also for clear coat, do one light coat and once it flashes (is not as shiny) hit it with a thick coat , the clear under will be sticky and will help hold the thick coat and stop runs. Also 3-4 coats primer, 3 coats base (or more if it isn’t covered), 2-3 coats clear. Also masking is extremely important, don’t just assume you won’t spray there. Also I suggest not being as heavy handed with the guide coat.
Great video! I have a question: Could this be accomplished removing rear window TRIM ONLY (leaving the rear window in.. masked of course).. Then installing new trim after (?)
![KSI - Dirty [Official Visualiser]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoDh1h1dPUE/mqdefault.jpg)
using this as a guideline for my hardtop right now!
thanks for watching, please subscribe
Omg that end result is CRAZY! ❤️🔥
you can do it too
I do autobody and paint professionally and I have a few tips for people that this video either didn’t touch on or did incorrectly, so before primer sand to 150, before base sand to 400, not 800. And a red scotchbrite can be used to help prep before primer, and a black one before base, it will help get in the nooks and crannies. And this is extremely important and he forgot to do it. PRIMER THE WINDOW SEAL AREA. If you don’t you will get moisture in there and it will ruin the seal overtime and can get into the fiberglass hardtop. Also for clear coat, do one light coat and once it flashes (is not as shiny) hit it with a thick coat , the clear under will be sticky and will help hold the thick coat and stop runs. Also 3-4 coats primer, 3 coats base (or more if it isn’t covered), 2-3 coats clear. Also masking is extremely important, don’t just assume you won’t spray there. Also I suggest not being as heavy handed with the guide coat.
You made that look easy, with very nice results!
It's really not that hard
@@HyperspeedMedia the hardest part is being patient and taking your time
@@mrskitz338 That's true..
Great video! I have a question: Could this be accomplished removing rear window TRIM ONLY (leaving the rear window in.. masked of course).. Then installing new trim after (?)
they sell special tape where you don't have to remove the molding at all, I believe it call Trim Masking Tape by 3M.
Very well done video.
Thanks for watching, more to come
Where did you get your paint?
I got the paint at a local automotive supply store.
How long did this take you ? Did you get a new window moulding
if you know what you're doing, it can be done in one afternoon, yes, I used new OEM windows molding, some people use generic molding.
Thank you
Next do a video on how to BUY a hardtop for less than a whole miata costs... lol
Those good old days are gone.. brother..
@@HyperspeedMedia HAHA I know right!!! cheapest in my area is $1800 with a crack in the back window.... paid $900 for my WHOLE car...
@@pawpatina LOL
Importing one from the Uk is prolly cheaper thb, picked one up yesterday for 250 pounds
Not enough details of grits used paint type just a speeded up version
180, 220, 320, and 400. 600 is optional to remove fine scratches