*I'll look around some more...Honda 'Metropolitan' has no cotter-pin, and retaining-nut has never been removed since new in '08!* (I put a steel-post thru the wheel to lock it in place...used a 3-ft. long cheater- bar...and the scooter had so much torque on it it was trying to flip-over on me!) *AND STILL IT WON'T MOVE!* Even oiling after heating w/a blow-torch on that nut does nothing! (no rust...but it's been on there for 11-years and 10-k miles!)
Thank you so much for this video. I have a flat rear tire and the scooter shop wanted almost 300 bucks to do the tire. Now I can just but the tire for 70 bucks and do it myself. Thank u
I have a few cracked piaggio fly panel's on my scooter is it better easier to complete strip down all panels and repair from the inside if so how long would a complete strip down take
Hi mitch .. quisiera saber si la piaggio fly ..es igual ala Thyfhoom 125 .. es decir ala hora de dar mantenimiento..y todo eso .. te estaré agradecido ... excúsame por no escribir en inglés de antemano gracias...👍
You see the shoes in the last shot in this picture. You should see two springs with hooks, you can take the shoes and wiggle them out from the two round pins they rest on. The shoes should come out together, then you can remove the springs and separate them. It is worth cleaning the springs using brake cleaner, as well as the inside of the brake drum - check the drum diameter is within manufacturer spec, if not, it is worn and you will have to replace the tyre, but this happens less often than needing to replace the shoes. Clean the inside of the drum with brake cleaner and 600 grit wet and dry sandpaper. Inspect the shoes - ensure you have to replace them, you will know this if the material left on the pad is under manufacturer spec, or if there are deep gouges, grooves, excessive wear on only one shoe - then replace them as a set. If possible, sintered brake pad material is much more robust, but it might be hard to find for a rear drum set of brake pads. If the brakes are not below wear limit, clean with brake cleaner and scuff out any scratches with 600 wet and dry sandpaper using the brake cleaner as a lube. To save money, you can use dish soap and water (make sure the soap doesn't have salt in it and is very mild) and then finish by drying and spraying with a coat of brake cleaner which will dry and displace any left over water. Put the springs back into the pads and then align them with the pins they rested on and wiggle them back into place. Hope this helps.
You see the shoes in the last shot in this picture. You should see two springs with hooks, you can take the shoes and wiggle them out from the two round pins they rest on. The shoes should come out together, then you can remove the springs and separate them. It is worth cleaning the springs using brake cleaner, as well as the inside of the brake drum - check the drum diameter is within manufacturer spec, if not, it is worn and you will have to replace the tyre, but this happens less often than needing to replace the shoes. Clean the inside of the drum with brake cleaner and 600 grit wet and dry sandpaper. Inspect the shoes - ensure you have to replace them, you will know this if the material left on the pad is under manufacturer spec, or if there are deep gouges, grooves, excessive wear on only one shoe - then replace them as a set. If possible, sintered brake pad material is much more robust, but it might be hard to find for a rear drum set of brake pads. If the brakes are not below wear limit, clean with brake cleaner and scuff out any scratches with 600 wet and dry sandpaper using the brake cleaner as a lube. To save money, you can use dish soap and water (make sure the soap doesn't have salt in it and is very mild) and then finish by drying and spraying with a coat of brake cleaner which will dry and displace any left over water. Put the springs back into the pads and then align them with the pins they rested on and wiggle them back into place. Hope this helps.
the front callipers usually have two bolts connecting the callipers to the fork. you only need to undo these to slide the brake calliper assembly off, if it's stiff you can wiggle it loose. the way it works is with piston/s that push on the pads via hydraulic pressure from the fluid system. one way to refresh front brakes is to apply pressure to the brake overnight to release any trapped air within the system - literally just use a winch tie or cable ties to hold the front brake on overnight. anyway, once the calliper is off there will be a few things to look for... the pads are usually held in by a retaining pin, it's going to be thick and held in place by cottier pins - like in this video holding the wheel on, but smaller. you can use pliers to get these off, and usually you will be told to replace these if you remove them. once the pin is out, the pads should pivot freely on the other pin they slide on to - they actually aren't held in by much at all. the best thing to do is to take pictures of the assembly once you have it off the fork, and lay out anything you take off in the same orientation and general position as you took them off. i like to have a towel laid down so it's easy to see all the parts and not lose anything. there will probably be a metal retaining clip in the calliper that keeps the pads orientated correctly, and this metal clip will only sit in the calliper in one orientation. clean everything as before, I like to use an old toothbrush to get into the brake pads - they will look like two squares of material and often have a lot of crud built up in the middle and sides, just carefully use a flathead screwdriver to get most of the crap out then finish with a scrub, and. finally spray with brake cleaner and let dry. again check the material left, check they are evenly worn and have no cracks, gouges or grooves - if they look bad, replace - very cheap for a moped and very important to your safety. next the calliper - inside is the piston, which has a rubber seal that keeps the fluid inside. check for wear on the gasket - very bad if they're broken or leaking as then you have brake fluid all over your brakes... things that can cause wear to this seal is corrosion on the piston. so, very gently apply a little front brake to see the piston/s push out to where you can see the shiny part Vs the dirty part. be careful as if you apply the brake too hard you could shoot the pistons right out and need a whole rebuild. once you can see the shiny part of the piston, clean the whole assembly and check the piston for corrosion - rust pits, chips, etc. if there's some rusting, you can use 600 grit wet and dry to rub it off. the piston should be able to rotate around, so check all sides and the rim, give it all a good clean and spray with brake cleaner to finish. the best way to put the pistons back in is to use the pads, put the back of the pad up against the piston and press it back in witb your hands- shouldn't take too much force. then put everything back together - taking pictures beforehand is really useful, don't underestimate it! some people like to put copper grease on the back of the brake pads as this helps dissipate heat and keep them moving... however on a moped, it's really not a performance machine, it's not a big deal. another thing you can do if you're interested in building your garage materials is use rubber grease around the piston seal to keep that area lubed and looked after - but both these things, copper slip and rubber grease, come in large tubs, so it's not exactly worth it if you're only going to do this job once. up to you though! once you have the calliper bolted back on, you will need to pump the brake system. it will be very light and loose at first then stiffen up (the lever). before you go out on the road, test the brakes down the street - first walking and then slowly on the moped to make sure everything is working. last thing you want is to find out something is wrong in the middle of a busy road
James Lada if you want any more detail just look up Delboys Garage front brake, he does bikes but they are very similar at the end of the day especially when it comes to brakes
Tools you need:
Breaker bar 1/2 drive - amzn.to/2HenuMI
24mm socket 1/2 drive - amzn.to/2Cd9aoC
Cottor pin -.156 X 1.25
Velcro strap - amzn.to/2HFGPXl
Rubber mallet - amzn.to/2BsqAMz
nose pliers - amzn.to/2yetDDj
Flathead screwdriver - amzn.to/2jN7lpE
SHOP MY SCOOTER STUFF: amzn.to/2CbqQku
Pre 2013 Piaggio Fly 150 videos: bit.ly/2fB7mdS
Want more free Scooter Tip / Tutorial videos - Please support MicBergsma!
Paypal donation: bit.ly/2fghrwN
Rånar lastbil
*I'll look around some more...Honda 'Metropolitan' has no cotter-pin, and
retaining-nut has never been removed since new in '08!*
(I put a steel-post thru the wheel to lock it in place...used a 3-ft. long cheater-
bar...and the scooter had so much torque on it it was trying to flip-over on me!)
*AND STILL IT WON'T MOVE!* Even oiling after heating w/a blow-torch on that nut does nothing! (no rust...but it's been on there for 11-years and 10-k miles!)
Thanks, removed and reinstalled my wheel in no time following your instructions. Keep doing this channel!
Thank you so much for this video. I have a flat rear tire and the scooter shop wanted almost 300 bucks to do the tire. Now I can just but the tire for 70 bucks and do it myself. Thank u
You're welcome!! Glad to hear that! HIGH FIVE!
Nice! Great vid
@@missclix2895 Thank you!
Glad your still put here doing scooter vids.
😄👍🏼 A lot more coming!
Great videos! Quick question ... do you need to completely remove the exhaust or can you just remove those bolts near the rear wheel to create space?
Once again, this novice sends sincere thanks.
Thanks Mitch! You saved me a lot of dough with your videos!
You're welcome Dan! Glad to help out!
hi Mitch ,do you have a video on a 2006 125 piaggio liberty please
I have a few cracked piaggio fly panel's on my scooter is it better easier to complete strip down all panels and repair from the inside if so how long would a complete strip down take
Love the video simple with good camera quality and camera view
Appreciate it ! :)
Thank you very much for your video, have a blessed and a wonderful day to your whole loving family and friends.
Thanks for that. Unfortunately I can't do the cool surfer hair and flip flops. But I did get the wheel off. Cheers
You're welcome! Haha! :)
hello sir love your content I also wanted to change some stuff on my scooter but i don't know how to find the correct stuff it's a old 2t scooter
good tip on the brake lever strap!
Thanks for sharing so many useful videos!
Gracias por tus tutoriales, sigue así.
Saludos desde España
Hi Mitch Torque of Nut ?? I have Piaggio Skipper 150 4t 2004
nice video showed each step in detail not far away where you can't see like a lot of videos some keep you guessing at wat they are doing and can see.
How do I get the wheel off if it's rusted on there and shitty?
Try wd40?
Get a bigger hammer. Be prepared to buy more parts
thanks man that helped out alot 😁😁
Hi mitch .. quisiera saber si la piaggio fly ..es igual ala Thyfhoom 125 .. es decir ala hora de dar mantenimiento..y todo eso .. te estaré agradecido ... excúsame por no escribir en inglés de antemano gracias...👍
Thank you for a great video 👍
devin doing a oil change my bike take 5w 40 but i can only get 5w 40 synthetic for car will that be ok
thanks
jimmy
Is the X9 125 a similar process ?
Hi i have a 2016 euro 50 and the nut is so stuck it broke 2 breaker bars what else can i try?
Impact
hey dude is the tyre tubeless???
Yes 👍🏼
@@MitchsScooterStuff thanks
Yo my lug nut is different to this and it's so stuck it broke 2 breaker bars and bent a hammer what can I try to get it off?
Impact
This was so easy that you can doit with your flip flops on lol.Thanks Bro
hello please how do i change the brakes then after that
You see the shoes in the last shot in this picture. You should see two springs with hooks, you can take the shoes and wiggle them out from the two round pins they rest on. The shoes should come out together, then you can remove the springs and separate them. It is worth cleaning the springs using brake cleaner, as well as the inside of the brake drum - check the drum diameter is within manufacturer spec, if not, it is worn and you will have to replace the tyre, but this happens less often than needing to replace the shoes. Clean the inside of the drum with brake cleaner and 600 grit wet and dry sandpaper. Inspect the shoes - ensure you have to replace them, you will know this if the material left on the pad is under manufacturer spec, or if there are deep gouges, grooves, excessive wear on only one shoe - then replace them as a set. If possible, sintered brake pad material is much more robust, but it might be hard to find for a rear drum set of brake pads. If the brakes are not below wear limit, clean with brake cleaner and scuff out any scratches with 600 wet and dry sandpaper using the brake cleaner as a lube. To save money, you can use dish soap and water (make sure the soap doesn't have salt in it and is very mild) and then finish by drying and spraying with a coat of brake cleaner which will dry and displace any left over water. Put the springs back into the pads and then align them with the pins they rested on and wiggle them back into place. Hope this helps.
What size cotter pin do i need?
I had to use 24
@@vincehoffman179 what is the measurement in inches?
@@Freebird1765 2,4mm
I have a 3.0 x 40 mm will that work?
That's what I call FOOT POUNDS @ 1:30!!! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
How do u know if there is a pin in it
Why aren't all tutorial videos as simple this? Cheers mate
I can't seem to remove my cotter pin as it is stuck! What to do?
Spray with WD40
Sounds like your over your head stop now seek experienced tool handler.. cotter pin forreal...
How ca i change the starter i think its wrong all the electricity gone
Blimey I lost concentration when u came into view on camera 😂😂🔥🔥🔥
haha :)
Bravo
ya mitch help please how do i change the brakes then after that
You see the shoes in the last shot in this picture. You should see two springs with hooks, you can take the shoes and wiggle them out from the two round pins they rest on. The shoes should come out together, then you can remove the springs and separate them. It is worth cleaning the springs using brake cleaner, as well as the inside of the brake drum - check the drum diameter is within manufacturer spec, if not, it is worn and you will have to replace the tyre, but this happens less often than needing to replace the shoes. Clean the inside of the drum with brake cleaner and 600 grit wet and dry sandpaper. Inspect the shoes - ensure you have to replace them, you will know this if the material left on the pad is under manufacturer spec, or if there are deep gouges, grooves, excessive wear on only one shoe - then replace them as a set. If possible, sintered brake pad material is much more robust, but it might be hard to find for a rear drum set of brake pads. If the brakes are not below wear limit, clean with brake cleaner and scuff out any scratches with 600 wet and dry sandpaper using the brake cleaner as a lube. To save money, you can use dish soap and water (make sure the soap doesn't have salt in it and is very mild) and then finish by drying and spraying with a coat of brake cleaner which will dry and displace any left over water. Put the springs back into the pads and then align them with the pins they rested on and wiggle them back into place. Hope this helps.
devin thank you so much for the help...do you know how to do the front to THANKS jimmy
devin thank you so much for the help...do you know how to do the front to THANKS JIMMY
the front callipers usually have two bolts connecting the callipers to the fork. you only need to undo these to slide the brake calliper assembly off, if it's stiff you can wiggle it loose. the way it works is with piston/s that push on the pads via hydraulic pressure from the fluid system. one way to refresh front brakes is to apply pressure to the brake overnight to release any trapped air within the system - literally just use a winch tie or cable ties to hold the front brake on overnight. anyway, once the calliper is off there will be a few things to look for... the pads are usually held in by a retaining pin, it's going to be thick and held in place by cottier pins - like in this video holding the wheel on, but smaller. you can use pliers to get these off, and usually you will be told to replace these if you remove them.
once the pin is out, the pads should pivot freely on the other pin they slide on to - they actually aren't held in by much at all. the best thing to do is to take pictures of the assembly once you have it off the fork, and lay out anything you take off in the same orientation and general position as you took them off. i like to have a towel laid down so it's easy to see all the parts and not lose anything. there will probably be a metal retaining clip in the calliper that keeps the pads orientated correctly, and this metal clip will only sit in the calliper in one orientation. clean everything as before, I like to use an old toothbrush to get into the brake pads - they will look like two squares of material and often have a lot of crud built up in the middle and sides, just carefully use a flathead screwdriver to get most of the crap out then finish with a scrub, and. finally spray with brake cleaner and let dry. again check the material left, check they are evenly worn and have no cracks, gouges or grooves - if they look bad, replace - very cheap for a moped and very important to your safety. next the calliper - inside is the piston, which has a rubber seal that keeps the fluid inside. check for wear on the gasket - very bad if they're broken or leaking as then you have brake fluid all over your brakes... things that can cause wear to this seal is corrosion on the piston. so, very gently apply a little front brake to see the piston/s push out to where you can see the shiny part Vs the dirty part. be careful as if you apply the brake too hard you could shoot the pistons right out and need a whole rebuild. once you can see the shiny part of the piston, clean the whole assembly and check the piston for corrosion - rust pits, chips, etc. if there's some rusting, you can use 600 grit wet and dry to rub it off. the piston should be able to rotate around, so check all sides and the rim, give it all a good clean and spray with brake cleaner to finish. the best way to put the pistons back in is to use the pads, put the back of the pad up against the piston and press it back in witb your hands- shouldn't take too much force. then put everything back together - taking pictures beforehand is really useful, don't underestimate it! some people like to put copper grease on the back of the brake pads as this helps dissipate heat and keep them moving... however on a moped, it's really not a performance machine, it's not a big deal. another thing you can do if you're interested in building your garage materials is use rubber grease around the piston seal to keep that area lubed and looked after - but both these things, copper slip and rubber grease, come in large tubs, so it's not exactly worth it if you're only going to do this job once. up to you though!
once you have the calliper bolted back on, you will need to pump the brake system. it will be very light and loose at first then stiffen up (the lever). before you go out on the road, test the brakes down the street - first walking and then slowly on the moped to make sure everything is working. last thing you want is to find out something is wrong in the middle of a busy road
James Lada if you want any more detail just look up Delboys Garage front brake, he does bikes but they are very similar at the end of the day especially when it comes to brakes
You forgot to tell that the tyre doesen't come off that easily. You need to loosen the rear brake before this.
Wow
I JUST CHANGED MY TIRE .I HAVE AN 2008..
lets see some gopro vids
subd.
😂😂😂
first
niçe
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