Never been a step when youre supposted to tightned the head after you got i warm with a steel headgasket.. Om the other hand, with the other gasket, its 40,60,70 someting 90 degree, 90 degree, go to working temp, 90 degree, go 1000km then 90 degree again.. Could be wrong but pretty sure i never seen that the steel gasket never is supposted to be tightned after working temp🤔
Just d24t swapped a 760 here in alberta. got the whole thing installed and then realized it was missing a rod bearing, took the whole engine apart and am in the middle of swapping the crank and connecting rods from one of my parts engines. very rare engines on this continent and glad to see someone else is putting some love into them.
Being an owner of a 740 with the D24T (in a small european country) , brought me to this here channel. Great videos with a great sense of humour. Keep up the good work, Mr. Baked Beans :-)
Rebuilding my d24t in my pinzgauer after a front timing belt failure. Big damage. I’ve got a video to add soon looking at what the failure did in a few very short second. The pinzgauer d24s have hydraulic tappets and the front belt has a tention pulley instead of tensioning with the water pump. Great video put out at the best possible time. Thanks from the UK
Sorry to hear about your engine, but thanks for the info! Will certainly work it into the next video! At least parts aren't too hard to come by yet. Best wishes from BurgerLand!
Great video, I know exactly what is feels to have a fresh d24t! I have a d24tic that I just did everything too also! And ima build another one this summer 🎉
34:15 "... make sure your mating surfaces are clean and dry..." then proceeds to wipe surface with dirty finger :D (RIBBING! I love your vids and am a subscriber!)
5:00 in I would say what small residual water or moister would burn off with the heat of the oil, and the metal, it’s going to steam out the crank case when it hits operating temperature. But thank you for the videos! Not many out there! I have a numbers matching 83 I’m the second owner and 188k trying to get it running again! Keep up the great work!
Nice looking nugget! D24 owner and if you want to keep that head flat a tight consider loosing the viscous clutch cooler and do the electro cooler retrofit. Also a proper oil cooler with thermostat,15 row mounted wherever it fits in front of the rad. And running a whole quart more oil that what states the book will do wonders to lengthen the life. Please use full synthetic oil. 5w40 or if you're going to up the boost run 0w40 but always full synthetic. This engine can do a million kms no problem if you can manage temps properly, cold starts uphill are killers. And pulling trailers on a slope for a long time is another classic killer. The head gasket Will pop. Head studs are great upgrade but an extra 400 bucks. Any how, thanks again and I hope to show my rebuild soon.
Luckily, this thing will be relatively light duty. I will probably do a transmission cooler, but given how cold it will be sometimes, I will probably stick with the OEM oil cooler.
I don't know if it has been mentioned before, but I genuinely believe you are the funniest RUclipsr out there. I absolutely admire your intelligent and well-crafted sense of humor. Kudos to you! If you ever happen to be in Germany, feel free to reach out - I'll treat you to a beer!
Yes, you are correct. But these are D24TIC after modernisation (after 1992 think). With hydraulic lifters and EGR valve too. I have one of the first D24TIC (1987) without hydraulic lifters and EGR.
Great video you have made there thank you for taking the time to do it. Could you possibly tell me what torque setting you used for the con rod caps? The data I have is 30NM the 180 deg but it feels way too much, i get to 90 deg and dont dare go any more...
Amazing video! Great effort and detail! Just in time as I will be putting D24T from Volvo 740 into my VW LT mK1 which have the same engines pretty much. Currently have D24 non turbo, 60 ponies...
Hi I am rebuilding a d24td from my Vw mk1 lt 4x4 and have found this video extremely helpful with the whole process. I have come up against a big problem with the con rod bolts as the bolts I have are the stretch bolts and I need to replace them but cannot find them anywhere. I was wondering if you know of a replacement bolt or where I could get the original bolts from. Regards Lee
Do you know the torque settings for the screws holding the gear cover on the inside of the oil pump? I used a regular phillips screwdriver to tighten until "tight." The green book says "install cover" without any additional specs. Wondering if there's a chance that they might back out over time.
hey ! your videos are helping me a LOT as my first diesel engine, ( been building engines +10 gears)(but absolutelly never ever before i have had touchen a Diesel. I had a really bad time figuring out about the timiing and the pump , and i just saw that you have a manual, wich one is ? as i'm keeping this car as my daily i would love to buy so i can read and understand everything from this (for me,at least for now) complicated engine. thanks in advice !!
Hello can you tell me what front camshaft belt you recommend i can't get genuine volvo in uk there is one for sale in germany ridicules money i sent of for a contitech belt but it was very poor construction so i sent it back im thinking of a gates belt , but need the best one available ,i have ,the genuine idler fully,belt tensioner, i have a SKF water pump, and a INA water pump, not sure which one of these is best tools just need the belts now , your videos are really good keep up the great work , regards jim
I'm not 100% sure what the OEM would be, but I have never had a problem with continental belts. Gates, Dayco and Conti are all I could get in the states. Of those 3 i'd trust the Conti. What made you think it was poor quality?
hello, have been enjoying your D24t diesel over haul videos, all well done and informative, as I am getting ready to turbo my D24 natural ,are you able to recommend a aftermarket turbo for my project please? just want a bit more of omff not going crazy thanks
From what I have read, the best option is the original hot section with a larger t4 compressor. The original turbine wheel has an unusually low trim to spool at low rpms and you'll want to keep that for streetability.
Hi! Do you have Anu tips for getting the air out of the fuel lines after installing new fuel lines for the diesel filter and replasing the throttle shaft O-ring. I cant get diesel coming from the fuel lines that go to the injectors when i try starting it
As long as you are getting power to the shut-off solenoid, you should be able to crack the lines at the injectors and bleed it no problem. My "will it run" video might have some useful info. A recent problem I had with my rabbit is that it would power the shut off solenoid in the "run" position, but not while cranking. Not sure if it is different with other chassis, but could be worth looking into.
I would probably just gap the fuel lines with zip ties if the original gappers is hard to get😅. Also why rebuild the turbo and not just put a bigger one in for the extra ponies? I do believe I have a spare 16T from a 850 T5 if you can make it fit somehow.
you have stupid high compression in that engine if you have a machined head and a 1,4 gasket. lucky the valves dont hit the pistions. VW states that the d24 head cannot be machined and you can only have a tollerance of 0.5mm.
no the m45/m46/m47 did not come with the d24 engine in any shape or form. The m46 OD gearbox was the ONLY gearbox to come with the d24 up until the 940 and the m90.
Hello from Burgerland! Thank you for the input and corrections! My injectors are 155 bar, I may have misspoke because they came from a company that pretty much exclusively deals with 1.6s. they just happened to have them. As far as the head gasket and compression, I just followed the green book exactly by measuring the piston protrusion and landed on one dot. Not sure the specifics of the pistons, but safe to assume they're aftermarket. It's funny you should comment today, I actually just got it running, but it's kicking my ass with air in the fuel. It starts and idles fine but has an inconsistent miss and will die when I blip the throttle and the pump gets a nice big bubble.
@@bakedbeansgarage116 well try and run it from a gas can in the enginebay. Also check your banjo bolts 1 is fuel in and 1 is fuel out. The fuel out has a pressure regulator and you Will Stavre the pump if you have those wrong. It says OUT on the head of the bolt
a tip for the 1.6 and 1.9s lock cam and pump, and when putting the belt on, ofc pull it tight between the pump and crank, then turn the crank one tooth backward slide the belt on and well every time i have tried. It put the correct tension between the pump and crank. Btw i may be forced to unsubscribe you are not barefoot this time :P
Yes, this! A great tip that has also worked every time for me. I'll be doing a video about a timing job on my rabbit eventually, I'll have to include it. And worry not, the piggies will be free once the shop floor isn't freezing!
Dont use the factory tightening spec with mls gasket !!! they are for composite only use the ones that come with the gasket on the paper ! 40nm 60nm then 90 degrees then another 90 degrees it usualy is for mls vw diesels
Thank you for the heads up! This has already been brought to my attention lol. I will have to add an annotation to the video when I get home. Luckily, the three stages I used are about right for this gasket, it just does not need to be retorqued when it's warm.
Just another point for future reference a cheaper option instead of arps is PD150 head bolts this is a later TDI engine that got stronger 12.9 grade bolts thiese can be cut down or purchased pre cut for use in all ve engines they are capable of more power than most will ever push through a d24 but still can't quite beat arp studs
Awesome video ! Can you scan the book and post it or send it to me via email i would really appreciate it because im gonna need it for my 940 D24tic engine😅
Never been a step when youre supposted to tightned the head after you got i warm with a steel headgasket..
Om the other hand, with the other gasket, its 40,60,70 someting 90 degree, 90 degree, go to working temp, 90 degree, go 1000km then 90 degree again..
Could be wrong but pretty sure i never seen that the steel gasket never is supposted to be tightned after working temp🤔
Correct, no additional tightening with the MLS. According to Volvo, the MLS has to be done with 40, 60, 75 and ONLY 180 degress.
I'm glad you brought that up, I hadn't considered the sequence might be different for the MLS. I'll annotate the video and pin your comment. Thanks!
@@VolvodennisYes thats right id do 2 90s instead of 180 in one go tho
I’ve just fitted one of those erling gaskets and the fitting instructions with the gasket stated 40Nm 60Nm 90degree 90degree 1000km 90degree
@@choppergray1 I'm glad I'm using arps as the angle tightening isn't used 😂 still people will debate the last torque spec instead 😭 🤣
Just d24t swapped a 760 here in alberta. got the whole thing installed and then realized it was missing a rod bearing, took the whole engine apart and am in the middle of swapping the crank and connecting rods from one of my parts engines. very rare engines on this continent and glad to see someone else is putting some love into them.
nice to see the model railroad track getting new uses
Being an owner of a 740 with the D24T (in a small european country) , brought me to this here channel. Great videos with a great sense of humour. Keep up the good work, Mr. Baked Beans :-)
Thank you for the kind words! Greetings from North America!
Rebuilding my d24t in my pinzgauer after a front timing belt failure. Big damage. I’ve got a video to add soon looking at what the failure did in a few very short second. The pinzgauer d24s have hydraulic tappets and the front belt has a tention pulley instead of tensioning with the water pump.
Great video put out at the best possible time. Thanks from the UK
Sorry to hear about your engine, but thanks for the info! Will certainly work it into the next video! At least parts aren't too hard to come by yet. Best wishes from BurgerLand!
@@bakedbeansgarage116 I haven’t found anything I can’t get so far and my one has awkward 24v parts to find.
Cannot wait for this thing too run
Great video, I know exactly what is feels to have a fresh d24t! I have a d24tic that I just did everything too also! And ima build another one this summer 🎉
34:15 "... make sure your mating surfaces are clean and dry..." then proceeds to wipe surface with dirty finger :D (RIBBING! I love your vids and am a subscriber!)
Don't worry, finger is calibrated.
5:00 in I would say what small residual water or moister would burn off with the heat of the oil, and the metal, it’s going to steam out the crank case when it hits operating temperature. But thank you for the videos! Not many out there! I have a numbers matching 83 I’m the second owner and 188k trying to get it running again! Keep up the great work!
Nice looking nugget! D24 owner and if you want to keep that head flat a tight consider loosing the viscous clutch cooler and do the electro cooler retrofit. Also a proper oil cooler with thermostat,15 row mounted wherever it fits in front of the rad. And running a whole quart more oil that what states the book will do wonders to lengthen the life. Please use full synthetic oil. 5w40 or if you're going to up the boost run 0w40 but always full synthetic. This engine can do a million kms no problem if you can manage temps properly, cold starts uphill are killers. And pulling trailers on a slope for a long time is another classic killer. The head gasket Will pop. Head studs are great upgrade but an extra 400 bucks. Any how, thanks again and I hope to show my rebuild soon.
Luckily, this thing will be relatively light duty. I will probably do a transmission cooler, but given how cold it will be sometimes, I will probably stick with the OEM oil cooler.
That was intense, great video. Im used to merc om617 engines. I dunno why but this seems way more difficult
Yeah, a little bit. It's the belts. The OM617 drives the injection pump from the correct end of the engine lol.
I don't know if it has been mentioned before, but I genuinely believe you are the funniest RUclipsr out there. I absolutely admire your intelligent and well-crafted sense of humor. Kudos to you! If you ever happen to be in Germany, feel free to reach out - I'll treat you to a beer!
Thank you for the kind words and support!❤️. I'll take you up on that if I get the chance!
Be sure to put the clamp over the #1 injection line when you set your timing with the timing light.
I'm glad someone caught that lol.
really nice for a change seeing peopele care about thes cars in steed of makinging a-traktor of it
Great video mate
as a swede I must say, she's looking mighty fine!
Thanks for the kind words!
Hey! good video! Whats the camshaft tools thickness that you welded the tangs on to?
good video!
and yes the D24 did get hydraulic lifters in the TIC model if im not incorrect
Yes, you are correct. But these are D24TIC after modernisation (after 1992 think). With hydraulic lifters and EGR valve too. I have one of the first D24TIC (1987) without hydraulic lifters and EGR.
Great video.
Great video you have made there thank you for taking the time to do it. Could you possibly tell me what torque setting you used for the con rod caps? The data I have is 30NM the 180 deg but it feels way too much, i get to 90 deg and dont dare go any more...
you got a talk show radio voice
Lovely vid as always!! 🤩
Amazing video! Great effort and detail! Just in time as I will be putting D24T from Volvo 740 into my VW LT mK1 which have the same engines pretty much. Currently have D24 non turbo, 60 ponies...
The d24tic in the 940is and late 760is has hydraulic lifters,mine 1992 945 got it
I usually use the peace sign orientation for my ring spacing. Just alternate oil rings to the sides
Use green locktight on the crank bolt! Unless you will snapp off the lock tab on inner sprocket
Thank you, this would have been a good thing to mention. Wouldn't want to send that torque all the way through the crank anyway.
Excellent 👏🏻
love this engine
great video
Hi
I am rebuilding a d24td from my Vw mk1 lt 4x4 and have found this video extremely helpful with the whole process. I have come up against a big problem with the con rod bolts as the bolts I have are the stretch bolts and I need to replace them but cannot find them anywhere. I was wondering if you know of a replacement bolt or where I could get the original bolts from.
Regards
Lee
Where is your Donate-Button? And also: What Engine-Oil are YOU putting in that Engine? All the best and cheers from Germany.
I hadn't even thought of that, I'll have to look into it!
I usually use Rotella T4 for pretty much everything.
Do you know the torque settings for the screws holding the gear cover on the inside of the oil pump?
I used a regular phillips screwdriver to tighten until "tight." The green book says "install cover" without any additional specs.
Wondering if there's a chance that they might back out over time.
As far as I know, it's just German torque. They're right up against the block, so not like they can go anywhere haha.
very nice
awsome vids
hey ! your videos are helping me a LOT as my first diesel engine, ( been building engines +10 gears)(but absolutelly never ever before i have had touchen a Diesel.
I had a really bad time figuring out about the timiing and the pump , and i just saw that you have a manual, wich one is ? as i'm keeping this car as my daily i would love to buy so i can read and understand everything from this (for me,at least for now) complicated engine.
thanks in advice !!
awesome video 👍, did you add thrust washers at camshaft cap nr. 4? I didn't see you mention them
The way the piano in the background held its note during “mental math”
I'm have a few bellhousings now, thinking of getting some more cast if you're interested?
I actually ended up finding one, but thanks! Do you have a company that casts them based on an original?
grazie 1000
Hello can you tell me what front camshaft belt you recommend i can't get genuine volvo in uk there is one for sale in germany ridicules money i sent of for a contitech belt but it was very poor construction so i sent it back im thinking of a gates belt , but need the best one available ,i have ,the genuine idler fully,belt tensioner, i have a SKF water pump, and a INA water pump, not sure which one of these is best tools just need the belts now ,
your videos are really good keep up the great work ,
regards jim
I'm not 100% sure what the OEM would be, but I have never had a problem with continental belts. Gates, Dayco and Conti are all I could get in the states. Of those 3 i'd trust the Conti. What made you think it was poor quality?
hello, have been enjoying your D24t diesel over haul videos, all well done and informative, as I am getting ready to turbo my D24 natural ,are you able to recommend a aftermarket turbo for my project please? just want a bit more of omff not going crazy thanks
From what I have read, the best option is the original hot section with a larger t4 compressor. The original turbine wheel has an unusually low trim to spool at low rpms and you'll want to keep that for streetability.
I may have a bell housing if I upgrade to my bmw ZF 5 speed
Zdravo, da li se ovakav motor ugrađivao i u vw lt,
да
Hi! Do you have Anu tips for getting the air out of the fuel lines after installing new fuel lines for the diesel filter and replasing the throttle shaft O-ring. I cant get diesel coming from the fuel lines that go to the injectors when i try starting it
As long as you are getting power to the shut-off solenoid, you should be able to crack the lines at the injectors and bleed it no problem. My "will it run" video might have some useful info. A recent problem I had with my rabbit is that it would power the shut off solenoid in the "run" position, but not while cranking. Not sure if it is different with other chassis, but could be worth looking into.
it can also help to try and put air pressure to the fuel tank to help push the air out of the filter and prime the injection pump.
Thanks bro, i purchased non steel head gasket, but also im not polish head, is it great mistake?
Nah, the regular gaskets are even more forgiving for surface imperfections, so it'll be good as long as it's flat and clean.
@@bakedbeansgarage116 thanks for calm, d24 must live!)
I would probably just gap the fuel lines with zip ties if the original gappers is hard to get😅. Also why rebuild the turbo and not just put a bigger one in for the extra ponies? I do believe I have a spare 16T from a 850 T5 if you can make it fit somehow.
I considered it, but given the no power I'm trying to make, the original turbo is more than plenty.
the head gasket is not a 1,6mm gasket it is a 1,4mm for the N/A engine. 1dot=1,4 2dot=1,5 3dot=1,6. greeting from sweden!
you have stupid high compression in that engine if you have a machined head and a 1,4 gasket. lucky the valves dont hit the pistions. VW states that the d24 head cannot be machined and you can only have a tollerance of 0.5mm.
no the m45/m46/m47 did not come with the d24 engine in any shape or form. The m46 OD gearbox was the ONLY gearbox to come with the d24 up until the 940 and the m90.
and if you bought injectors from a 1,6 those are 130 BAR injectors and the d24T are 155 bar.
Hello from Burgerland! Thank you for the input and corrections!
My injectors are 155 bar, I may have misspoke because they came from a company that pretty much exclusively deals with 1.6s. they just happened to have them.
As far as the head gasket and compression, I just followed the green book exactly by measuring the piston protrusion and landed on one dot. Not sure the specifics of the pistons, but safe to assume they're aftermarket.
It's funny you should comment today, I actually just got it running, but it's kicking my ass with air in the fuel. It starts and idles fine but has an inconsistent miss and will die when I blip the throttle and the pump gets a nice big bubble.
@@bakedbeansgarage116 well try and run it from a gas can in the enginebay. Also check your banjo bolts 1 is fuel in and 1 is fuel out. The fuel out has a pressure regulator and you Will Stavre the pump if you have those wrong. It says OUT on the head of the bolt
So there will be Volvo 240 rebuild series? :D
Yup! It's not going to be a full restoration, but I will be doing more dumb and fun mods because it's for myself!
What is that instruction book called?
It's just the factory Volvo workshop manual or "green book"
@@bakedbeansgarage116 do you have the article number for it so I can find it?
the one with the d24 engine
a tip for the 1.6 and 1.9s lock cam and pump, and when putting the belt on, ofc pull it tight between the pump and crank, then turn the crank one tooth backward slide the belt on and well every time i have tried. It put the correct tension between the pump and crank. Btw i may be forced to unsubscribe you are not barefoot this time :P
Yes, this! A great tip that has also worked every time for me. I'll be doing a video about a timing job on my rabbit eventually, I'll have to include it. And worry not, the piggies will be free once the shop floor isn't freezing!
do a b230 rebuild
I will...
Lacquer head knows but one desire
May have specifically had you in mind during that line ❤️
@@bakedbeansgarage116 stop it you 🥰
Dont use the factory tightening spec with mls gasket !!! they are for composite only use the ones that come with the gasket on the paper ! 40nm 60nm then 90 degrees then another 90 degrees it usualy is for mls vw diesels
Im going to be using arps in mine tho they go to roughly 150nm in 3 equal stages
Thank you for the heads up! This has already been brought to my attention lol. I will have to add an annotation to the video when I get home. Luckily, the three stages I used are about right for this gasket, it just does not need to be retorqued when it's warm.
@@bakedbeansgarage116 yeah I'd say you'd be absolutely fine as you are it's done now not worth changing it
Just another point for future reference a cheaper option instead of arps is PD150 head bolts this is a later TDI engine that got stronger 12.9 grade bolts thiese can be cut down or purchased pre cut for use in all ve engines they are capable of more power than most will ever push through a d24 but still can't quite beat arp studs
very useful thanks!
Are you interested in an d24tic intake manifold? I can sell you one. Good video btw!
How old are you bro
Six, plus or minus thirty.
@@bakedbeansgarage116 plus thirty i guess.. I just complet that vidéo right now. Do u got insta? Wanna show my 1990 740 d24tic
I have bellhousing for sale and d24tic intake if you’re interested
I appreciate you reaching out! I actually just found one state side literally an hour after the video uploaded lol. Thanks for the lifter info!
HOWDY PARTNER
GREETINGS, INTROVERT
want to have a engine that lives longer ❓ delete the vacuum pump youse an electric vacuum pump instead.
I would never
Awesome video ! Can you scan the book and post it or send it to me via email i would really appreciate it because im gonna need it for my 940 D24tic engine😅
Yeah, I can get it to you. I'll have to bring it to work next week to scan it.