I just came back to a gym after 4 years and they taught this method for a top rope test. It felt like the most awkward, clumsy and inefficient way to do it. Every new step in a process creates a chance for a mistake and a slower method lets the climber get ahead of you. Their justification was that the technique is transferable.
@@ggleisshitit's assisted blocking, it's not designed or intended to be solely relied upon. If you and your climber are happy with risk of deliberately misusing a piece of safety critical gear thats your choice, but no instructor should ever tell you to do that. And should a gym instructor tell you to do that, and then it fails, they're liable and their insurance is invalid
@@ggleisshitno a gri gri locks as long as you actually go into break, there can and has been instances where a belayer lets go assuming it will lock and there climber has fallen off the wall, like the other commenter said please do not misuse these devices
No, PBUS seems to be only used for top rope belaying in gyms. SSS has been around since hip belays were new; I've never heard of an accident caused by a knowledgeable climber using SSS. If you want some hard and fast rules of belaying I'll give you three: 1) never let go of the rope with your brake hand; 2) if you think there's a chance of being pulled off your stance, anchor in; 3) keep your mind on your job, your attention on your climber.
You shouldn't really slide your hand up the rope as if the person fell and there was slack the rope would run through your hands and burn and cut your skin, personally, I find the "Create a V, down to the knee, 1, 2, 3" method far better purely for this reason
I just came back to a gym after 4 years and they taught this method for a top rope test. It felt like the most awkward, clumsy and inefficient way to do it. Every new step in a process creates a chance for a mistake and a slower method lets the climber get ahead of you. Their justification was that the technique is transferable.
Same at local climbing gym. They don’t understand that the grgri self locks. It’s not an atc. I can hip belay a climber safely without these steps.
@@ggleisshitit's assisted blocking, it's not designed or intended to be solely relied upon. If you and your climber are happy with risk of deliberately misusing a piece of safety critical gear thats your choice, but no instructor should ever tell you to do that. And should a gym instructor tell you to do that, and then it fails, they're liable and their insurance is invalid
@@ggleisshitno a gri gri locks as long as you actually go into break, there can and has been instances where a belayer lets go assuming it will lock and there climber has fallen off the wall, like the other commenter said please do not misuse these devices
@@ggleisshit Even with a GriGri you still have to keep your brake hand on the rope. It has its advantages but IMO the disadvantages outweigh them.
No, PBUS seems to be only used for top rope belaying in gyms. SSS has been around since hip belays were new; I've never heard of an accident caused by a knowledgeable climber using SSS. If you want some hard and fast rules of belaying I'll give you three: 1) never let go of the rope with your brake hand; 2) if you think there's a chance of being pulled off your stance, anchor in; 3) keep your mind on your job, your attention on your climber.
Great clear instructions!😊
why would you leave out the part about lowering them down
I have been belaying like this for 15 years, I have held 100 foot whippers from aid climbers using this. Just saying.
You shouldn't really slide your hand up the rope as if the person fell and there was slack the rope would run through your hands and burn and cut your skin, personally, I find the "Create a V, down to the knee, 1, 2, 3" method far better purely for this reason
you cant tell me thats not Veritasium
That's not Veritasium
Perfect
V to the Knee 1-2-3
Darren Sharpston that’s how I do it
really really bad method, do not do it this way
first: comment view
Horrible method, most of his time was spent looking down…no climber down there
You do it without looking at it lmao