I also use the tracing wheel and paper to mark the cutting lines for the actual pattern. That way I can use all the different sizes of the pattern. As my son grew I was able to use the pattern from a small all the way up to a large. This tutorial helped my daughter very much. She understands the importance of having different options for tranfering the marks. Thank you 💖
Amazing tutorial. I've only been sewing for a year and never with a store bought pattern. I opened it, got overwhelmed and closed it! But with this tutorial, I'm so much more confident! Thank you!
Seriously, the store bought ones are very intimidating at first glance! I bought my first stuffed animal pattern and the second I looked at all the lines and dots and symbols I was like “uh oh 🙃”
Awesome video! I have two tracing wheels that I picked up from thrift stores, even though I had no idea how to use them. Now I do!! Having to do all the cutting and tracing the details onto the fabric and such is always the most daunting part of sewing for me, which has put me off from trying to sew for several months now. This tutorial actually is very informative and makes the daunting task seem a bit easier. Thank you. Also, I tend to cut the pattern out at the largest size, so I can trace out any size I wish. Multiple use makes more sense. I am starting back to learning to sew after my husband bought me a box of over 200 patterns at a benefit yard sale for $2.00, half the patterns are for 18" dolls. I figured it's a good way to learn each step/technique as I go and not waste a lot of fabric along the way. Plus doll clothes would be a great item to donate along with new dolls of course to homeless shelters and such, and with Christmas coming up it would help many moms get some nice gifts for little girls!
Wow, so helpful! Now I feel a little more confident. When I first opened my pattern I got so overwhelmed and ignored most of the symbols, and guess what, I cut an important piece backward. Now I know how to do it correctly. Thanks so much!
This is very informative! I've been trying to make a dress from a Simplicity pattern and I had NO idea where to even begin. Thanks so much for making this video!
Thank you for taking the time to create videos. Sometimes when I visit I forget to press the like button. I appreciate your time and effort. Your videos are very helpful to me.
Thank you!!!!!!! You are so thorough and made this easy and not scary. I bought a pattern to make a sweater for my little man and just didn’t even know where to start. I subscribed to you! Gonna watch your videos thanks again :)
Wow, excellent tutorial. Coming back to sewing in middle age, confused by pattern directions despite repeated readings. This clarified everything I needed to know. Love all of your lessons. Thank you. (Do you happen to have a tutorial about making a tunic style blouse with color and interfacing?) I mean collar' and interfacing.
I don't know if we have one specifically like that but you can see all the full pattern tutorials that we've created here: www.professorpincushion.com/videos/?category=commercial-pattern-tutorials
Great introduction to sewing. Will you consider doing a video tutorial on a pants pattern? If you do please use a pattern that includes plus size. Thanks!
you can get the beeswax from your local craft or fabric store. It should just rub out In my example I was just showing how to use the tracing wheel on some scrap fabric I had so it wasn't for an actual project. That's why I just did it to the wrong side. To do it to the other side, just unpin it and flip the pattern to the other side. Good luck! :)
Since patterns are nothing more than tissue paper, I have issues using the serrated tracing wheel because it often tears thru my pattern pieces, making that pattern less usable every time I trace markings. With the non-serrated tracing wheel, I have the opposite problem...the tracings don't go thru to the fabric clearly so I have to press extra hard to make them visible on some fabrics.
Have the same problem. The only way around it is to make a paper copy of your pattern pieces. Haven't tried it yet. I'm exploring how to use Floriani products instead. Expensive. Sigh.
There are a couple of tricks to preserve your original patterns. One is to back your original pattern with fusible interfacing - see this page: www.thesprucecrafts.com/how-to-preserve-paper-sewing-patterns-2978115. Another approach is to always trace a copy of the individual pattern pieces onto lightweight interfacing so you never cut into your original pattern. This is especially beneficial with multi-size patterns - you can make tracings of various sizes from the original pattern without damaging it.
Thank you so much for these videos! I have a question about this one though.. If I don't have transfer paper and want to copy lines with chalk or a pen - how do I do that? The pin trick makes sense for smaller areas like the circles but what about lines?
Thank you so much for your videos, they are so easy to understand for a beginner like me! Just wondering, is it necessary to use carbon paper and a tracing wheel for some markings? Such as certain long lines? Or is it possible to do them all without carbon paper?
the carbon paper is what is making the marks. If you just use a tracing wheel, you may be depending on it making an imprint in the fabric and that may not happen.
It really depends on the mark. If it's something like a dart, I usually do it on the wrong side. If it's a pocket placement mark, then I do it on the right side. If I'm not sure, I default to the wrong side.
You mentioned using "bee's wax" to mark fabric. Where do you find wax based marking tools? Does bee's wax leave a permanent mark on the garment when you press it during the sewing process? You said you mark pleats and folds on the right side of the fabric but when you demonstrated with tracing wheel and transfer paper weren't you marking the wrong side of the fabric? How do you mark them on right side of the fabric while the pattern piece is pinned down? Thanks for responding :-)
Hi! I have a pattern that says cut pleat lines (on the pattern and transfer the markings with chalk onto the gabric) but there are solid and dashed lines on the pleated markings. It is unclear which to cut and if both the solid or dashed lines should be transferred.
I am having a very big issue with McCall's M6760 pattern where it calls for piece number 3 (the midriff) to be placed on "center front on fold" but it looks like single thickness of fabric. I think that it I'm just to mirror its image
yes, if the pattern piece is saying to be placed on fold, you can do it if there's enough fabric. Sometimes, they'll still show the layout on a single layer of fabric with one side of the pattern white and the other side shaded. They usually do this if there's not enough fabric or its too awkward to have a real fold. If you have enough, I say put it on the fold.
I’ve been using transfer paper for years, but now lately it won’t mark the fabric. It’s too faint to see. Even when pressing down hard with a serrated tracing wheel. What to do? I’ve been using tailor’s tacks, but the process is long and laborious. Any suggestions on the transfer paper?
they may have changed the formula from what it used to be. I mainly use the fabric marker for most of my projects. It's not as fast as transfer paper but it works.
Professor Pincushion I always get confused of how to place the paper pattern on fabric so grain line is in the right place especially when one is using a piece of fabric that has no clear selvedge edge. Where should the straight grain line be?
All the grainline arrow is doing is helping to ensure that when you're fabric is all sewn together, the fabric fibers are all going in the same direction. It is not a hard fast rule that the grainline arrow goes parallel to the selvage. In fact, I can lay out my patterns so the grainline arrow is going perpendicular to the selvage. The important part is it's all consistent. So even if you don't have a selvage, you don't need to stress and pick a direction and stick with it. Hope that helps!
I have a commercial pattern that I am going to use. I cut the pattern to my corresponding size. Then I cut the fabric not the same size as the pattern but I put a 5/8 allowance, So now the cut fabric is bigger than the pattern. What I thought is the edge of the pattern is my guideline to stitch/sew the fabric pieces together. There is a direction here saying stitch 5/8" seams unless otherwise stated. So now my understading is seam allowance already included. Am I correct. I'm glad I cut my fabric larger than the pattern itself. Please confirm if I have to cut the fabric right on the edge of the pattern and that seam allowance is already included in the pattern. Thanks. I will wait for your response before I proceed to my dewing. Thank you so much. Gloria
It sounds to me like the seam allowance is already included and you do not need to cut beyond the lines. For all the major pattern companies like Simplicity, McCall's, Butterick, Kwik Sew, and Vogue, they do include the seam allowance so you can cut directly on the line when cutting out your fabric. Good luck and please post a pic when you finish :)
Usually I have the right side of the fabric on the inside when it's folded so I'm placing my pattern pieces on the wrong side of the fabric. But you can do it on the on the right side, especially if you're trying to match the designs or something.
+J Treadway usually patterns are laid out so that the grainline arrow goes parallel to the selvage. You can watch out pattern layout tutorial here: ruclips.net/video/lNjulZzkTL8/видео.html
I also use the tracing wheel and paper to mark the cutting lines for the actual pattern. That way I can use all the different sizes of the pattern. As my son grew I was able to use the pattern from a small all the way up to a large. This tutorial helped my daughter very much. She understands the importance of having different options for tranfering the marks. Thank you 💖
Amazing tutorial. I've only been sewing for a year and never with a store bought pattern. I opened it, got overwhelmed and closed it! But with this tutorial, I'm so much more confident! Thank you!
+Jasmine Lozano you can do it! :)
I had the same experience. The first time I gave. The second time...Pincushion came to the rescue !!!!
Right there with you, these videos were amazing
Seriously, the store bought ones are very intimidating at first glance! I bought my first stuffed animal pattern and the second I looked at all the lines and dots and symbols I was like “uh oh 🙃”
Awesome video! I have two tracing wheels that I picked up from thrift stores, even though I had no idea how to use them. Now I do!!
Having to do all the cutting and tracing the details onto the fabric and such is always the most daunting part of sewing for me, which has put me off from trying to sew for several months now. This tutorial actually is very informative and makes the daunting task seem a bit easier. Thank you.
Also, I tend to cut the pattern out at the largest size, so I can trace out any size I wish. Multiple use makes more sense.
I am starting back to learning to sew after my husband bought me a box of over 200 patterns at a benefit yard sale for $2.00, half the patterns are for 18" dolls. I figured it's a good way to learn each step/technique as I go and not waste a lot of fabric along the way. Plus doll clothes would be a great item to donate along with new dolls of course to homeless shelters and such, and with Christmas coming up it would help many moms get some nice gifts for little girls!
I have been “sewing” for years and always get intimidated by the pattern markings. You just opened up a whole new world for me. Thanks!
Thanks! We're glad you're a fan of our tutorials :D
Wow, so helpful! Now I feel a little more confident. When I first opened my pattern I got so overwhelmed and ignored most of the symbols, and guess what, I cut an important piece backward. Now I know how to do it correctly. Thanks so much!
so glad our video helped :)
This is very informative! I've been trying to make a dress from a Simplicity pattern and I had NO idea where to even begin. Thanks so much for making this video!
+Thanatosimpulse don't give up. just take it one step at a time :)
Thank you for taking the time to create videos. Sometimes when I visit I forget to press the like button. I appreciate your time and effort. Your videos are very helpful to me.
Thank you!!!!!!! You are so thorough and made this easy and not scary. I bought a pattern to make a sweater for my little man and just didn’t even know where to start. I subscribed to you! Gonna watch your videos thanks again :)
thanks so much for subscribing! :)
You are amazing and the way you explain every part of the patterns make it so much easy for me to understand. Thank you,Thank you and Thank you 😊
So glad you found out tutorials helpful! :)
good for anybody who wishes to know how to construct the patterns.
01:00 thru 05:48 should be titled: WHAT to mark...the rest of the video is the HOW to mark
Finally you talked about what to use for marking fabric and how somewhat…
I love it that your video was clear and concise without a lot of extra chit chat!!
Wow, excellent tutorial. Coming back to sewing in middle age, confused by pattern directions despite repeated readings. This clarified everything I needed to know. Love all of your lessons. Thank you. (Do you happen to have a tutorial about making a tunic style blouse with color and interfacing?) I mean collar' and interfacing.
I don't know if we have one specifically like that but you can see all the full pattern tutorials that we've created here: www.professorpincushion.com/videos/?category=commercial-pattern-tutorials
I needed this👊
Thank you so much for clarifying this. Jayne x
Did a blind search on 'transfer pattern markings....etc' and end up back at Dr. P's. Thank you.
all roads lead to Dr.P - thankfully
I love how you say fold!!!!
I love this, please post videos like this
love your videos and your nails are always on point girl!
+Sandrine kow thank you so much! :)
Thanks for all of your lovely videos. They're very helpful for me as a complete beginner!
So helpful! Thank you!
Great introduction to sewing. Will you consider doing a video tutorial on a pants pattern? If you do please use a pattern that includes plus size. Thanks!
you can get the beeswax from your local craft or fabric store. It should just rub out In my example I was just showing how to use the tracing wheel on some scrap fabric I had so it wasn't for an actual project. That's why I just did it to the wrong side. To do it to the other side, just unpin it and flip the pattern to the other side. Good luck! :)
Doesn’t the tracing wheel cut right through the pattern? That would be a big problem if one planned to use the pattern again.
Thank you.
Since patterns are nothing more than tissue paper, I have issues using the serrated tracing wheel because it often tears thru my pattern pieces, making that pattern less usable every time I trace markings. With the non-serrated tracing wheel, I have the opposite problem...the tracings don't go thru to the fabric clearly so I have to press extra hard to make them visible on some fabrics.
Have the same problem. The only way around it is to make a paper copy of your pattern pieces. Haven't tried it yet. I'm exploring how to use Floriani products instead. Expensive. Sigh.
There are a couple of tricks to preserve your original patterns. One is to back your original pattern with fusible interfacing - see this page: www.thesprucecrafts.com/how-to-preserve-paper-sewing-patterns-2978115. Another approach is to always trace a copy of the individual pattern pieces onto lightweight interfacing so you never cut into your original pattern. This is especially beneficial with multi-size patterns - you can make tracings of various sizes from the original pattern without damaging it.
Thank you so much. I am getting back into sewing and this is so helpful.
What is a good transfer paper? So much seems to not work as well.
Thank you for this!
Thank you so much for these videos! I have a question about this one though.. If I don't have transfer paper and want to copy lines with chalk or a pen - how do I do that? The pin trick makes sense for smaller areas like the circles but what about lines?
what can you substitute the tracing wheel with
love your blood dipped nails!
I have the marker with purple on one end and blue on the other. It doesn't come with
instructions. Thank you for explaining.
Thank you so much for your videos, they are so easy to understand for a beginner like me! Just wondering, is it necessary to use carbon paper and a tracing wheel for some markings? Such as certain long lines? Or is it possible to do them all without carbon paper?
the carbon paper is what is making the marks. If you just use a tracing wheel, you may be depending on it making an imprint in the fabric and that may not happen.
I'm a newbie. Trying to make a pair on shorts. My fabric is diagonal.How do lay it out? Thanks
Do you transfer the marks on the right side of fabric?
It really depends on the mark. If it's something like a dart, I usually do it on the wrong side. If it's a pocket placement mark, then I do it on the right side. If I'm not sure, I default to the wrong side.
You mentioned using "bee's wax" to mark fabric. Where do you find wax based marking tools? Does bee's wax leave a permanent mark on the garment when you press it during the sewing process?
You said you mark pleats and folds on the right side of the fabric but when you demonstrated with tracing wheel and transfer paper weren't you marking the wrong side of the fabric? How do you mark them on right side of the fabric while the pattern piece is pinned down?
Thanks for responding :-)
So helpful!
I chose a pattern recomended fo jersey or tshirt material but I'm using crepe material. Will this be an issue?
Great video
Thanks! :D
so I'm making a purse from simplicity . do I sew on the pattern too or just transfer the marks to my fabric
+Emily Voorhis you just transfer the marks. Once you start sewing, the patterns themselves can go back in the envelope. Good luck on your purse! :)
I don't mark on fabric i just pin the pattern on fabric then i cut it out round the pattern
Hi! I have a pattern that says cut pleat lines (on the pattern and transfer the markings with chalk onto the gabric) but there are solid and dashed lines on the pleated markings. It is unclear which to cut and if both the solid or dashed lines should be transferred.
Both. One line is the fold of the pleat, the other is where you fold the pleat *to. Hope that helps!
Thanks
I am having a very big issue with McCall's M6760 pattern where it calls for piece number 3 (the midriff) to be placed on "center front on fold" but it looks like single thickness of fabric. I think that it I'm just to mirror its image
yes, if the pattern piece is saying to be placed on fold, you can do it if there's enough fabric. Sometimes, they'll still show the layout on a single layer of fabric with one side of the pattern white and the other side shaded. They usually do this if there's not enough fabric or its too awkward to have a real fold. If you have enough, I say put it on the fold.
I’ve been using transfer paper for years, but now lately it won’t mark the fabric. It’s too faint to see. Even when pressing down hard with a serrated tracing wheel. What to do? I’ve been using tailor’s tacks, but the process is long and laborious. Any suggestions on the transfer paper?
they may have changed the formula from what it used to be. I mainly use the fabric marker for most of my projects. It's not as fast as transfer paper but it works.
Professor Pincushion I always get confused of how to place the paper pattern on fabric so grain line is in the right place especially when one is using a piece of fabric that has no clear selvedge edge. Where should the straight grain line be?
All the grainline arrow is doing is helping to ensure that when you're fabric is all sewn together, the fabric fibers are all going in the same direction. It is not a hard fast rule that the grainline arrow goes parallel to the selvage. In fact, I can lay out my patterns so the grainline arrow is going perpendicular to the selvage. The important part is it's all consistent. So even if you don't have a selvage, you don't need to stress and pick a direction and stick with it. Hope that helps!
@@ProfessorPincushion Thank you so much for replying to me. Your answer has helped. I just have to look up the meaning of 'perpendicular' now.
I have a commercial pattern that I am going to use. I cut the pattern to my corresponding size. Then I cut the fabric not the same size as the pattern but I put a 5/8 allowance,
So now the cut fabric is bigger than the pattern. What I thought is the edge of the pattern is my guideline to stitch/sew the fabric pieces together.
There is a direction here saying stitch 5/8" seams unless otherwise stated. So now my understading is seam allowance already included. Am I correct.
I'm glad I cut my fabric larger than the pattern itself.
Please confirm if I have to cut the fabric right on the edge of the pattern and that seam allowance is already included in the pattern.
Thanks. I will wait for your response before I proceed to my dewing.
Thank you so much.
Gloria
It sounds to me like the seam allowance is already included and you do not need to cut beyond the lines. For all the major pattern companies like Simplicity, McCall's, Butterick, Kwik Sew, and Vogue, they do include the seam allowance so you can cut directly on the line when cutting out your fabric. Good luck and please post a pic when you finish :)
Seams are always 5/8" on commercial patterns unless otherwise noted like the NK SA. The lines you cut already have a 5/8" SA built in.
Ooooohhhhh...I feel so silly now! I couldn't figure out how to do those darts!!
I'm having trouble finding the next video for starting to sew your pieces together once you have transfered your markings and remove the pattern.
The next video after this is pattern directions overview. You can find it here: How to Read Commercial Pattern Directions - Updated
Medicine budda
when your cutting that pattern is the material on the right side or wrong side?
Usually I have the right side of the fabric on the inside when it's folded so I'm placing my pattern pieces on the wrong side of the fabric. But you can do it on the on the right side, especially if you're trying to match the designs or something.
thank you bunches, and your a super teacher, very easy to understand. I did find another lesson of yours where you said to have it inside out.
YAYEET
Cut
I'm a newbie. Trying to make a pair on shorts. My fabric is diagonal.How do lay it out? Thanks
+J Treadway usually patterns are laid out so that the grainline arrow goes parallel to the selvage. You can watch out pattern layout tutorial here: ruclips.net/video/lNjulZzkTL8/видео.html