Relatively few people in the world got a chance to meet Toby Guynn. For years he ran "Toby" a small speaker manufacturing company in Fort Worth, Texas. He was once the bassist for the famed NTSU One O'clock Jazz Band, and I met him about 15 years into his speaker making career. My first experience with his speakers were one of his oldest transmission-line designs, an oddity at the price point he managed to hit. The bread and butter of his operation was bandpass subwoofers. Probably anyone much outside the Dallas/Fort Worth area who knows of Toby was introduced to his work by those car subs. He knew his market well. And because he designed every component of them, they were extremely flat for bandpass designs...they'd rearrange your guts if you weren't careful with them. I met Toby right after I graduated from college, because I wanted to actually meet the guy who'd designed those amazing transmission line cabs (and to know why the ones I tried to design had failed so miserably). He spent an afternoon with me, and that led to a whole series of afternoons as the years went by. Whenever I was closeby and had a little time, a stop at Toby's place was always a treat. Once when I'd needed a small set of monitors to take on the road, I'd bought a set of Dynaudio BM5As, which sounded great for their size and fit a flight case I already had. I brought them by his place once, knowing he'd grumble about them, and take them straight to the "lab" and measure them every way but loose. By the time I left, he'd modded the ports and was proud of himself for making them flatter for the price of a couple db output. The guy loved what he did. But he constantly worked on large dipole designs. That was his secret passion. If he knew you were a musician or serious audiophile, he'd sit you down in the "showroom" and play his latest for you. Toby always listen-tested those with acoustic music. He had a whole set of recordings selected, those he felt had the best soundstages for judging imaging. His passion was small group jazz, trying to perfect the soundstage to the point you could pinpoint each player. And those dipoles he designed (if you had the kind of scratch to design a room around them, which is pretty much what it would take to hear them properly) were absolutely the most thrilling speakers I've heard in my entire life, bar none. You could not sit in that seat and deny what you were hearing. Toby was never in the best of health, and he was not particularly careful in his habits, so he died relatively young. And there probably are not that many people in the world who sought him out, and sat in that room to listen to his Franken-dipoles du jour. But there's definitely something to it. Like I said, you'd have to dedicate a room to them if you were really serious about it. There's no other practical way to create them--not to the degree which there are just literally no compromises. The baffles themselves simply have to be too large, even for mids/highs. And Toby was the first to admit there was a threshold at which you had to cross the lowest frequencies to a sub unless you had an entire 7500 foot lot to devote to your listening room. But all practicality aside, I've never heard anything before or since like that.
What a great story. I highly recommend checking out Spatial Audio. Clayton Shaw is the man behind them, and they build incredibly innovative open baffle speakers in Utah. I have a pair of M3s and they blow every other speaker I've heard out of the water. When done right, open baffle is really hard to beat.
Audio enthusiast, sound engineer, recording artist... love your insights...use to build speaker cabinets with my dad back in the old 60-70s Wharfedale / Tannoy days...
I don't think one can discount one speaker design over another; however, I have a small pair of full range open baffles being run by a Decware single ended tube amp, and I think for the kind of music I listen to, they are the best I've heard to date. I know if I were to put the speakers, or even the amp on a bench test, they'd spec out horribly-- but there we are...
Well thats the problem with hifi, its only as good as what you have heard, but I remember going from the old mission 760's to where I am today and the difference is staggering even though back then I thought it sounded great, in your case bass is going to be the problem, sub bass is only good upto 80Hz unless you are running 2, then you have alignment problems between sub and speaker, open baffle not used back in the day and speaker tech has not really improved except for DSP assistance, unless I had that I would not bother with open baffle as I want a full range sound.
Paul. I love your no nonsense interpretation and GIVING A SHOUTOUT TO YOUR KIDS ! I have 4 as well. Don’t know if you will see this but I love your products and your style!
Paul, your favorite speaker, the Infinity IRS-V is a hybrid with OB for the mid and treble and a closed servo controlled sub. This is a very typical OB configuration where OB is used for everything down to mid bass and its then augmented by a closed box sub woofer. An open baffle is not defined as a cone driver on a baffle, its any kind of transducer on a baffle as opposed to a box. So your favorite speakers are open baffle.
Yes, and he was good enough to make that distinction in the vid with separate commentary from woofers. Just didn't give the benefits enough for the mids. Porting a midrange cabinet is something too few manufacturers do because you need to build a separate midrange cabinet, but it gives many advantages of an open baffle. Removing the back panel gives you a transmission line midrange with a good blend of benefits. These "open baffle" derivatives would make a great follow-up video also.
@@lukerabin5079 Its not about the driver, its physics, get a calibrated mic and test with REW, you will be missing a large chunk of bass unless you have resorted to DSP-at frequencies that becomes problomatic for adding subs.
As an advocate of subwoofers I'm surprised Paul did not speak about open baffle speakers with subs supporting the bottom end. This is what I have at home, it's fantastic!! OB speakers are super efficient, airy, have immense soundstage and dynamics. With a set of subs they are very very hard to beat. For relatively cheap (I have a pair of sealed SVS subs and a set of entry level spatial audio speakers) they will blow away any box speaker that is double or more the price.
You can only run 2 subs with open baffle quite high into the frequency band where bass starts becoming directional, its horrid to get any kind of usable flat response...PERIOD.
@@engjdsI'm now using 15 inch high sensitivity coaxial full range drivers in open baffles supported by two REL subs. The sound is absolutely glorious.....very full range, very realistic sounding and the system eats up very dynamic music without breaking a sweat. I can throw anything at this system and it doesn't even begin to struggle. I have a gigantic listening room (40 feet by 60 feet with 18 foot ceilings) and the entire space is filled with sound. Anybody who has not tried very large very efficient open baffles with very good subs is missing a real experience. The plus side is the open baffle speakers are diy and cost me 1000$ to build the pair.
@@engjds🤣🤣😂. Physics! That's awesome 🤣. There are literally countless driver types, enclosure styles, sizes and specifications. Then there are literally unlimited sizes of rooms with endless degrees of treatment or lack there of. Then there are countless amps paired to said driver types in said unlimited rooms. Then there is a never ending variety of recordings with tremendous variety in the information they contain. Then there is the incredible diversity of human hearing. You: "physics". 😂😂😂😂😂. Have you checked out open baffles with 15 inch coaxial drivers + 18 inch sub drivers + two REL subs? If yes, we can talk. If no, fuck off.
I sometimes (or actually often) mess around and experiment with speaker setups, and the one time I tried an open baffle setup, I really loved the sound even though I didn't have any really good drivers. It just sounded so alive and fun, but indeed there was no proper bass except for a little bit of extremely low bass.
I go back and forth-sealed, ported. I had an older but we’ll know pair of 18 inch subwoofers Kove Armageddons 4 inch coils 55 pounds each 2500-3k rms dual 2ohms out of lazy ness and inexperience I but then in a sealed box-separate chambers of course only had a 3k rms amp one bass track witch is well known to “bass heads”- Bass I love you by Bassotronics sounded beyond incredible. I ended up blowing the subs by 1.not having proper current and I didn’t know I was clipping almost all the time but the coils held up UNTIL I not knowing better started putting 4 inch ports in the box. But it lead me to meet my sub builder so hey I guess it was worth it. Fast forward to today I still play the same song with twice the rms 6k got more then enough current my amp has a clip light so that is awesome. Like I’ve mentioned I’m set to 28-19 hz but that song just does not have the same impact as when I had those 18’s in sealed box and a 3k rms amp. Maybe it’s the cone surface or It wasn’t as loud and powerful as I remember. If my subs were not 90 pounds each-Adire Audio 3001kh’s custom made as well I love to play around with different boxes. Some days I fantasize about just that :). Some do infinite baffle,isobaric chambers you know all different means of getting bass it’s just so much fun being an audiophile.
Hey Paul! What do you think about the "Danny Richie side of open-baffleness"?... because im watching all of his videos in the New record day channel here on youtube, and it looks like he has found a way to have all the benefits that you mentioned about open baffles and minimize all the down sides with high quality crossover networks and smart baffle cabinet designs
I know your comment is old, but I have just seen the videos from N(e)RD and I think most of the "problem" is not so great after all. The sound from the back has to use time to get to the front and equally does the front sound weaves is using time to get to the back, this means that the front and back sound waves meets in the sides and chancels out there, meaning that you get full sound in the front and back but no sound in the sides, resulting in that you can place your speakers closer to the side wall. Also, if you use some absorbing material to place a little behind the speaker, will you even get a louder bass. Paul says he is familiar with more box-speakers that he likes than open baffle, and yes it's guaranteed true, but to that story may I add there are only a very few open baffle speakers out there. What he says is a bit like, I know of more Lada cars I like to drive in than Ferrari testarossaes. :-)
Bob Carver developed a open baffle speaker that didn't need an equalizer & had solid bass response down to 20 Hz and was reasonably efficient. Fed a strong enough signal I was able to rattle windows at 10hz. I could not hear the bass at 10 Hz but the fact that it was rattling windows meant that was definitely reproducing it & not only that but there was no audible harmonics at 10 hz meaning very low distortion even at that low frequency. The window in question were in a fairly large room & the speakers were along the far wall facing the wall with the windows. Oh this was with an Adcom 100 watt per channel amp so not a huge powerhouse amp. The only problem is they were quite large & were often referred to as the surfboards from hell. They required a reasonably large room as well. The version I had had 3 twelve inch woofers each with 2 inches of travel & very small magnets for a twelve inch drivers. Those small magnets are in large part how Bob achieved bass response without requiring equalization. There was a larger version with 4 of those 12 inch woofers.
I still use a pair of Carver AL-III's that I bought in "95". I've since totally rebuilt the crossovers with much better parts and they're pretty awesome, but they are power hungry and always have been at 86db. The newer OB speakers are much better and I'm looking hard at these : )
I don't know why Magnepan, or electrostats in general were not mentioned. Different driver, similar issues, well loved by a lot of people. Also, open vs. closed headphones. Many ways to experiment in how different things sound when drivers drive free air in both directions.
What would happen if we place a kind of horn facing backwards from the driver so waves won't interfere with the front projection? Would it fix the wave phase problem?
I’ll have to get a copy of The Rock and The Tree. This sounds completely assinine, but I didn’t think about phase cancellation. It makes perfect sense now. Thanks for clarifying the topic for me!
So there is no advantage of an open baffle speaker except spatial. The reflected sound output yields the depth and spaciousness that we find with live sound in a good space.
Would love to see a video of correct sealed box density ...for example a sealed speaker will sound way different in a thick concrete walled box vs a wooden one....so how thick should wooden walls be for a particular sub/midbass ? Depending on the wood material chosen of course
Love seeing the Rocket RS250 speaker in the background! I still love my Rockets in my home theater. Wish things didn't go down the way they did at AV123. I still am enjoying many of their products.
Obivoiusly I'm a car audio guy but I come here to learn a different side of audio. But yeah, Open baffle or 'infinite baffle' is a very helpful application in a cars when using doors or rear decks as the speaker baffle. But in a home, where you have the room for boxes upon boxes.. not sure I would opt to go that route. Thanks for the video.
I find it's easier to get the same pitch and texture definition in speakers, top to bottom, with hybrid open baffles. I do fill in below about 60 Hertz with stereo sealed subs. My current favourite is the Dayton Audio RSS265HF-4, in 1 foot boxes. Sealed, magnet side out, for maximum internal volume, in the smallest box. Saves a set of connectors, too.
I built a set of Open Baffle MTM using 2ea. Audax HM130CO 5 1/4" and Vifa aluminum Dome tweeter with the rear damping chamber removed so the rear sound of the tweeter is also released. These sit on top of my DIY woofer system each made with HiVi 2ea. W10 woofers in each enclosure to produce the bass frequencies below 200 Hz. I am using a TDM Design 24CX-4 24db per octave Linkwitz Reiley Electronic Crossover set up Stereo 3 way. It sounds great. I have built several closed box systems using active setups and these sound the best to me. More realistic and larger sound stage Amplifiers i have and use are 2ea. ATI AT2505 Emotiva LPA-1, Yamaha DSP-A and many more in the past. Yamaha M-60's Yamaha M-85, Sansui AUX-,1 Sansui B2103's and many others. I have also used many different Electronic Crossovers in the past and still have several.
Open baffle speakers are velocity sources, closed/ported (including transmission lines) are pressure sources, therefore the biggest difference presents itself in the placement of these in the listening room. You can not place the open baffle where you place the closed/ported box. Closed/ported designs excite the room efficiently when they are placed at the pressure maximums of the room modes, ie. all the room modes have a pressure maximum at the corners, you place them there, you get the maximum room gain (boomy bass). You place the open baffle at the corner, nothing happens, because when there is a pressure maximum, there is a velocity minimum. Velocity is minimum by the walls, therefore you have to move the open baffles towards the center of the room.
Sorry, but this is not the case. Sound is all pressure and zero "velocity". The speed of sound is dependant on the density of material it flows through. Air has density. There is no pressure in space, and no sound. Yet there is still velocity. That velocity makes zero sound. Therefore, velocity's contribution to sound is zero. [Perhaps you confused the pressure equation of PV=nRT. V is Volume here, not velocity.] Room modes are entirely geometrically dependant. Wave interference patterns result when the speakers are equidistant from two walls. When you put them into (or near) a corner their distance between each side wall becomes equivalent. You have now generated a node. That node is what you are observing. This is why 12x12 rooms don't sound as good as 10x12 rooms. As you can see, those dimensions are independent of velocity (which is constant in a room at the same altitude). Hopefully this mathematical approach is constructive and allows you to eliminate a "red herring" in your endeavor. Cheers.
@@onebylandtwoifbysearunifby5475 I am extremely sorry that you have received false information from somewhere.Whatever you are saying is so not true, I don't even know where to start. Therefore, it is best that you find it out yourself in your journey because it looks like, with the level of knowledge you have, you are going to oppose to anything I say anyway.
@@oturgator Sound is a pressure wave that travels in a medium at a constant velocity. That velocity is entirely dependant on the density and physical characteristics of the medium. That is why helium balloons make your voice sound higher. Lower density medium.[ Also, take your speakers into a vacuum chamber. No sound? But they still have velocity?? Velocity is therefore Zero contribution. ] But if we are talking listening rooms, we are talking nitrogen medium. And velocities are all equal. Hearing is 100% pressure detection. It is a mechanical system. It cannot detect velocity. More pressure is interpreted as louder. More oscillations interoperate frequency. There are no variables for velocity in audition. Extraneous variable will only serve to confuse. The point here is that all speakers from ear-buds to cones to electrostatic are exclusively pressure drivers and have to obey the same physics regardless of type. Hopefully that confusion has been clarified for all parties. Cheers.
You (or maybe not you) may also consider there is no hard line between "open baffle" and "closed baffle". It is a continuum. There are transmission line midranges that do much of the same by simply taking out the back panel of the box. "Boxes" made from Acoustic felt is another option. They are sonically transparent, yet still provide some needed pressure wave for the driver to work against. They are "open baffle" with felt behind the driver. (I use these for open baffle mids below 100Hz design criteria with good success). One great solution is ported midrange. You get a driver with less (cone) travel, so is more accurate with less piston effect. So "open baffle" is a continuum between air only and ported enclosures (for air pressure mitigation, not ported bass in this context). All of which change the pressure behind the driver, and all have benefits and compromises. Hopefully this helps readers to consider some new approaches in their next design or purchase. (Sorry for any sour grapes, but physics is physics, as they say. Cheers.)
I am an OB fan. If you use woofers of the proper Q and sufficient cone area there is no problem down to somewhere in the 40-50 Hz range. I have no problem augmenting with a sub. It is also not unreasonable to use OB for the mid and up with a sealed woofer enclosure but you do give up some of the natural sounding bass from the OB. Generally if I am OK with 40Hz lower limit I would go OB for the woofers but my next project I am looking for 30Hz f3 so will probably go with sealed below about 500Hz.
We trust your opinion. I'm with you on the sealed box over open baffle. I run infinite baffle not open subs which is the deepest possible sounds. I'm getting by with open baffle mids for sometime now. They seem to be somewhat thin sounding. Better than loading in boxes that are too small, but... However a propper sealed box is in the works. Your take on horns was also very helpful. I have lots of horns. Echoing, honking but loud! I run ribbon tweeters from now on.
I have some open baffle 12" vintage zenith speakers that came from an old radio cabinet and they sound stunning beyond belief. The bass isn't too great so I use my 8" polk audio sub and it fills the gap perfectly.
I remember going to a local audio store back in the mid 1980's and being flabbergasted by the bass that I heard (and felt). This was the first time I ever heard bass down to 20hz and it was amazing, you couldn't tell where it was coming from, it seemed to be coming from everywhere and it vibrated your insides. Anyway I walked into the "high end" room where the speakers were, they used transmission line loading and they were quite large, don't recall the brand ... could have been Fried. Nowadays of course you can get bass like that from a "small" subwoofer that has a 12" - 15" driver with a huge motor connected to a 1000-watt amp. I never listened to open baffle speakers but I've seen them before, I would imagine they have a much better (3-D) imaging though believe it or not imaging can be improved greatly by using quality interconnects. About 10 years ago I purchased a used set of Monster M-1 interconnects to go between my Denon surround receiver which I was using as a pre-amp and my Parasound 5-channel power amp. The difference in imaging was amazing!! I was hearing my CDs like I never heard them before, with some sounds being way out in front of the speakers! My B&W 602 S3 speakers never sounded so good.
I'm using open baffle speakers and its sound more natural compared to my boxed type, just my personal preference, but all my audiophile friends love it too. It need to place a little bit further from wall to perform correctly though.
30 years ago when I had no knowledge of Bose and dipole speakers, I had great success with Philips Hi-Q speakers which I opened the back and had them placed at the L + R corners of my room, couple of feet away from the corner walls.
If I accept your explanation, and I know your right that phase cancellation is the key to why noise canceling headphones make long trips on planes so much more bearable, however, why can we hear something from an open baffle speaker if it is subject to phase cancellation? It doesn’t make sense.
Hello the only reason I was considering an open baffle is I am running some 12in field coil speakers that are extremely high efficiency with a 20 watts per channel tube amplifier I was expecting very minimal low frequency response out of the speakers and was considering running 2 modern 12 in speakers under the baffled array with a class D amplifier for the low end and using the field coil woofers between 200 and 4000 Hertz for sound quality
Excuse me I wish to know what happens if you put a subwoofer in a sealed box separate in two equal parts, in one part there is the front wave and in the other part there is the back wave ? Phase cancelation ? No sound at all ? The box isn't vribating or resonating ? Please let me know...?
I'm gunna make some open baffle speakers with 10" coaxial drivers (that I built up from separate 1" dome tweeters and 10" "guitar/PA drivers). And a 10" closed box woofer facing down onto the floor beneath the open baffle driver. I have done that before with woofers and I like it. The floor is a "horn" and very effective. On just about all my floor standers, the woofers have to be resisted by several ohms to decrease bass output (to get the best blend with the "bass" on my med/treble drivers). I already have everything to make the open baffle speakers (working on 2 other pairs of speakers @ the moment). Voicing my latest big floorstanders (with semi open cone over a box). And some tiny desk speakers with some "magic" 3" FR drivers and 4" woofer. The 3" ones are really mellow for the driver type and extended highs and cheap. Not one sour note even without any filter thing! Cheers audio nerds!
The 10" guitar speakers will be open baffle? I have always thought they would be good for that because they have a stiff suspension and are often designed to be a unsealed boxes like guitar amp combos.
Paul, I build amplifiers today (at 35) as I did when I was 13. Push-pull mosfet designers are my bread and butter. I love your videos man. They scratch my itch in a way that you may not understand. Also, I really need to box my table top test subwoofer. It sounds like garbage. ;)
I made yea4s ago open back square for some pioneer dual cone and a craig fm 8 track powerplay 12w. They sat on the back dash of 69 4D nova facing forward just fit into the window where they would stay. Couple years later I closed the backs and even my buddy said they were louder open back.
hi Paul. i'm sure you've heard about the QUALIO IQ speakers.. they're semi-open. the Midrange and Tweeter are outside , then the woofer and sub-woofer are boxed in. what do you think about this concept ?. to me. they sound awesome... thank you . great episode
Here's a question for a future video. Many people are changing to efficient LED light bulbs these days. Most of these bulbs contain a small switching power supply to drive the LED. To what extent do you find that these add harmful noise to the AC power that can affect your audio system?
gotham61 all modern electronics use SMPS operating above audio band- the only catch is El cheapos use little or no line filters like capacitors and ferrite chokes causing electrical noises to travel or emit along the line. Triac based electronic fan regulaters also introduce lots of interference if they are not properly designed These would mostly affect more on AM SW FM radio in that order. So just keep sensitive input & speaker cables isolated, well designed modern amps will take care of noises.
Always Great videos. For an open design concept, one may want to take a look at the Legacy Whisper. I don't get it since it needs a sub but... Oh well!
I wonder if one is to use a lot of sound deadening material around the back side of the speaker without boxing it in if that would have a bit of the advantages of an open air system (no resonance and not a lot of back pressure) and not the disadvantage of an open system (freq cancellation due to reflection)? I am currently rebuilding a radio in a classic car with a single speaker on the front middle part of the dashboard so an open baffle would make my life a lot easier but if the sound improves with sound deadening around the back I would certainly do it. I only have room for a maximum of 3.5 liter enclosure and I am using the 6.5” retrosound stereo speaker. The enclosure would make the build a lot less fun.
I have heard pure audio project open baffle that uses four Eminence 15" drivers per channel and the bass to my ears finally sounded real. If you look at bass guitar cabinets and guitar cabinets the big boys with 4 12" drivers inside they all have open backs the boxes are not tuned or ported or sealed just bracing and an open back. If you take a look at drums they are all open back no drum is sealed or ported. Instruments play in open air not inside boxes. If you want to be true to the instruments open baffle is it. I have heard many open baffles in the past and never licked them. Once I heard 8 15" speakers in a pair of open baffle speakers I fell in love
All nice, but I think it very depends where the speakers located, and how you build an open baffle. 4 example, I’m building a cinema room in a basement, so the room will be sound isolated. I have no much experience with an open one, but I guess it will be the best experience on a live concerts with open baffles, I hope to make a maximum vibration with a minimum volume. I guess to reduce the cancellation effects, the panel should be big enough, at least 8 -10 inch around the woofer?! I guess open baffles are not for a regular living room, it will shake everything 🤷🏽♂️ Thank you for video.
Well the funny thing is if you want a box speaker to go down to 40 hz for example you need a big box and a big woofer... And if you want an open baffle to go down to 40 hz... You still need 3 feet behind it and a large enough baffle so basically the front of the box and some space except the open baffle has the benefit of going deeper with less energy lost and it sounds more open and better and they don't shoot sound in all directions just at you so less room interference. I honestly think it's just a lot of hate for open baffles but they're honestly amazing.
Paul said early on in this video it's something he doesn't fully understand (Open Baffle Speakers) you can get where he's coming from I hope, Enclosed Speaker systems are his forte obviously open baffle systems are not. Both designs if done right can sound amazing. Open Baffle designs are not something new they've been around long before I was born but until recently they haven't been explored to see what can be done with them but now we're seeing the design possibilities and advantages the can have and the music realism they can produce.
After having gone with a set of huge baffle for 6 years, its impossible for me to listen to anything else. Everything else sounds like a hollow box almost regardless of the cost.
@@LCRLive687 I agree. Making a non box sounding boxed speaker is incredibly difficult. After hearing open baffles, there are only few speakers I've heard that Id' say are non boxy. The Kef Muon, JBL Synthesis (flagship I heard), and a couple others.
Sorry but you comparison is extremely lopsided. You can't just say take the speakers out of the box put them on a baffle and they won't sound as good as in the box. For starters you are talking about completely different types of drivers to optimise both scenarios. Also OB bass is far superior to boxed bass, but you are going to need 8 times as many bass drivers to achieve the same dB due to roll off. But the bass you get will be far superior. How can you compare a driver that is subject to cone distortion to one free to move as it sees fit? You sung the praises of servo woofers saying that through time alignment with the amplifier, you could overcome the limitations of the box as the woofer excursion increased. As the woofer travels further and further to produce deeper bass it changes the pressure ratio / timing in the box. With an open baffle the driver is infinitely closer to your servo woofer because it can move freely and unimpeded by back pressure. To be honest I don't believe you have heard truly great open baffle speakers if you can dismiss them so quickly.
Yes, but since you need so much more drivers, then you must put much more money into an OB speaker than a CB speaker. Hence the question is for a given amount of money, what is best. And that is closed always, since for a given sound pressure it will be cheaper with a CB speaker than OB. If budget is not involved in the equation, then OB can be the right choice.
@@oysteinsoreide4323 For me the question is more like : do I want to spend twice (or more) on bass drivers for the added quality of the bass : my answer is absolutely yes , no doubt whatsoever
Not sure you need 8x the drivers if you choose the right one. I have experimented for 15 years with OB and have actually built and tested dozens of designs, not theorised from an armchair. My experiments have lead me to what I consider the finest bass/speaker system I have ever heard. * No baffle. Speakers hung in free air. All baffles colour the sound and cause resonances. In the mid and upper frequencies I found the narrower the baffle, the better the imaging.....but eliminating the baffle altogether gave holographic results. Sure, you lose bass, but you compensate with the woofers. Woofers on baffles, U-Frames, H-frames etc, may increase the bass, but not in a good way......creates room artefacts, nulls & nodes. * Choose the right woofer. The light paper cone, fabric surround high efficiency designs dont give what I consider bass, even if optimised. What works best are heavy cones, inefficient high Xmax designs with an Fs below 20Hz. I am using 4 Dayton UM18's, locked together in pairs using M6 bolts with 11cm spacers with cones facing each. They are suspended on metal cables by the magnets on a metal hammock style frame and operate in acoustic phase, similar to the Celestion SL6000 system. They are powered by a pair of iNuke NU3000DSP amps and given only dynamic roll-off compensation getting flatter as volume increases. The bass on this setup is gut wrenching, pure and detailed. It can do subtle jazz, it can do Kraftwerk. It stuns people that have heard it and reaches 110db. No room nodes or nulls. Cost of this setup, with amps is well under $2k. Not making this up. 15 years led to this: mediaprocessor.websimages.com/width/240/crop/0,0,240x500/www.trans-fi.com/System/UMA2.JPG
I don't get open baffle systems becuase how do you design and all around crossover? I think you have to design a crossover base on every pacific room type are using them in. The room itself is a box/cabinet correct?
Walter sells the Emerald Physics open baffles. I have the EP 4.3 and use it with Acourate for a flat response. There is also quintet from pure audio. I need to upgrade mine to EP4.8 someday. Anyways i have no issues with my Ep4.3 over the last 3 years :)
the best open baffle speakers is the linkwitz lx521 and the lx521.4 goes down to 16 Hz, running a ASP. have you listened to one at all Paul and what's your opinion if any! really keen in build one
well, its not a open baffle in his setup. its endless baffle... different thing. and his woofers in this setup are in sealed boxes so his argument stands
He said open baffle is good in midrange and up. Woofers don't do as well. This is correct, btw. It has to do with wave launch area of the baffle. Newton showed forces are equal and opposite. In audio that means they need something to push against. Paddle a canoe in water and then use your paddle in air only. Both fluids are moving at the same speed and displacement. The reason you get propulsion when your paddle is in the water is because the fluid has a denser (higher pressure) wave than in the air. Without that pressure you don't get much done. Same with baffle pressure. The bigger the baffle, the lower frequency a driver can produce. You can get 60Hz from a 1 meter square baffle with a 6in woofer. But that is a big speaker. Midrange is not so limiting. Open baffle mids and transmission line mids can sound fantastic without the drawbacks of O.B. woofers. That is what he was saying as far as a gathered. So it shouldn't be surprising he has exactly those speakers. He doesn't strike me as a 'dope' or dishonest. [Perhaps you are jaded by american politics ;) ]
So I just built my first sealed subwoofer box and, i suppose based on the internet, i built it the wrong way i.e. Perfect square. Will i experience Phase cancellation or Standing waves? If so what type of filling will I need to compensate this mistake
this type of people i love - this guy is 100% a good guy - that shares his honest opinion . . . we need more people like this ! ! !
It's always great to see someone be proud of his/her children
I really enjoy your videos Paul. It’s nice that they are like a conversation between friends and not a stodgy lecture. Thank you!
Relatively few people in the world got a chance to meet Toby Guynn. For years he ran "Toby" a small speaker manufacturing company in Fort Worth, Texas. He was once the bassist for the famed NTSU One O'clock Jazz Band, and I met him about 15 years into his speaker making career. My first experience with his speakers were one of his oldest transmission-line designs, an oddity at the price point he managed to hit. The bread and butter of his operation was bandpass subwoofers. Probably anyone much outside the Dallas/Fort Worth area who knows of Toby was introduced to his work by those car subs. He knew his market well. And because he designed every component of them, they were extremely flat for bandpass designs...they'd rearrange your guts if you weren't careful with them.
I met Toby right after I graduated from college, because I wanted to actually meet the guy who'd designed those amazing transmission line cabs (and to know why the ones I tried to design had failed so miserably). He spent an afternoon with me, and that led to a whole series of afternoons as the years went by. Whenever I was closeby and had a little time, a stop at Toby's place was always a treat. Once when I'd needed a small set of monitors to take on the road, I'd bought a set of Dynaudio BM5As, which sounded great for their size and fit a flight case I already had. I brought them by his place once, knowing he'd grumble about them, and take them straight to the "lab" and measure them every way but loose. By the time I left, he'd modded the ports and was proud of himself for making them flatter for the price of a couple db output. The guy loved what he did.
But he constantly worked on large dipole designs. That was his secret passion. If he knew you were a musician or serious audiophile, he'd sit you down in the "showroom" and play his latest for you. Toby always listen-tested those with acoustic music. He had a whole set of recordings selected, those he felt had the best soundstages for judging imaging. His passion was small group jazz, trying to perfect the soundstage to the point you could pinpoint each player. And those dipoles he designed (if you had the kind of scratch to design a room around them, which is pretty much what it would take to hear them properly) were absolutely the most thrilling speakers I've heard in my entire life, bar none. You could not sit in that seat and deny what you were hearing.
Toby was never in the best of health, and he was not particularly careful in his habits, so he died relatively young. And there probably are not that many people in the world who sought him out, and sat in that room to listen to his Franken-dipoles du jour. But there's definitely something to it. Like I said, you'd have to dedicate a room to them if you were really serious about it. There's no other practical way to create them--not to the degree which there are just literally no compromises. The baffles themselves simply have to be too large, even for mids/highs. And Toby was the first to admit there was a threshold at which you had to cross the lowest frequencies to a sub unless you had an entire 7500 foot lot to devote to your listening room.
But all practicality aside, I've never heard anything before or since like that.
What a great story. I highly recommend checking out Spatial Audio. Clayton Shaw is the man behind them, and they build incredibly innovative open baffle speakers in Utah. I have a pair of M3s and they blow every other speaker I've heard out of the water. When done right, open baffle is really hard to beat.
I love the videos. It’s so refreshing to watch you as you seem like a genuinely happy person.
Audio enthusiast, sound engineer, recording artist... love your insights...use to build speaker cabinets with my dad back in the old 60-70s
Wharfedale / Tannoy days...
I don't think one can discount one speaker design over another; however, I have a small pair of full range open baffles being run by a Decware single ended tube amp, and I think for the kind of music I listen to, they are the best I've heard to date. I know if I were to put the speakers, or even the amp on a bench test, they'd spec out horribly-- but there we are...
Well thats the problem with hifi, its only as good as what you have heard, but I remember going from the old mission 760's to where I am today and the difference is staggering even though back then I thought it sounded great, in your case bass is going to be the problem, sub bass is only good upto 80Hz unless you are running 2, then you have alignment problems between sub and speaker, open baffle not used back in the day and speaker tech has not really improved except for DSP assistance, unless I had that I would not bother with open baffle as I want a full range sound.
Paul. I love your no nonsense interpretation and GIVING A SHOUTOUT TO YOUR KIDS ! I have 4 as well. Don’t know if you will see this but I love your products and your style!
That’s awesome, your son is very talented! Best of luck to him and Tina. I hope your grandchild is born healthy and stays healthy!
Paul, your favorite speaker, the Infinity IRS-V is a hybrid with OB for the mid and treble and a closed servo controlled sub. This is a very typical OB configuration where OB is used for everything down to mid bass and its then augmented by a closed box sub woofer.
An open baffle is not defined as a cone driver on a baffle, its any kind of transducer on a baffle as opposed to a box. So your favorite speakers are open baffle.
Yes, and he was good enough to make that distinction in the vid with separate commentary from woofers. Just didn't give the benefits enough for the mids.
Porting a midrange cabinet is something too few manufacturers do because you need to build a separate midrange cabinet, but it gives many advantages of an open baffle. Removing the back panel gives you a transmission line midrange with a good blend of benefits. These "open baffle" derivatives would make a great follow-up video also.
Open baffle all the way! The new Spatial Audio M3 & M5 Sapphire speakers are game changers.
Open baffle is horrid. Very thin sound and no midbass.
@@LCRLive687 you’re not listening to the right driver if you think that.
@@lukerabin5079 Its not about the driver, its physics, get a calibrated mic and test with REW, you will be missing a large chunk of bass unless you have resorted to DSP-at frequencies that becomes problomatic for adding subs.
Love the conveyor desk
A pleasure to listen to you Paul as always. A Hifi fountain of knowledge.
As an advocate of subwoofers I'm surprised Paul did not speak about open baffle speakers with subs supporting the bottom end. This is what I have at home, it's fantastic!! OB speakers are super efficient, airy, have immense soundstage and dynamics. With a set of subs they are very very hard to beat. For relatively cheap (I have a pair of sealed SVS subs and a set of entry level spatial audio speakers) they will blow away any box speaker that is double or more the price.
You can only run 2 subs with open baffle quite high into the frequency band where bass starts becoming directional, its horrid to get any kind of usable flat response...PERIOD.
@@engjdsI'm now using 15 inch high sensitivity coaxial full range drivers in open baffles supported by two REL subs. The sound is absolutely glorious.....very full range, very realistic sounding and the system eats up very dynamic music without breaking a sweat. I can throw anything at this system and it doesn't even begin to struggle. I have a gigantic listening room (40 feet by 60 feet with 18 foot ceilings) and the entire space is filled with sound. Anybody who has not tried very large very efficient open baffles with very good subs is missing a real experience. The plus side is the open baffle speakers are diy and cost me 1000$ to build the pair.
@@billbones1000 Physics says no...
@@engjds🤣🤣😂. Physics! That's awesome 🤣. There are literally countless driver types, enclosure styles, sizes and specifications. Then there are literally unlimited sizes of rooms with endless degrees of treatment or lack there of. Then there are countless amps paired to said driver types in said unlimited rooms. Then there is a never ending variety of recordings with tremendous variety in the information they contain. Then there is the incredible diversity of human hearing. You: "physics". 😂😂😂😂😂. Have you checked out open baffles with 15 inch coaxial drivers + 18 inch sub drivers + two REL subs? If yes, we can talk. If no, fuck off.
@@engjdsyour wrong.
Nice intro with the book.
I myself will build a Martin King OB system and A/B test with a box system. Thank you for the pros and cons.
Room placement is generally more critical with an OB speaker as well.
Awesome desk sir... Amazing work of your son.
I sometimes (or actually often) mess around and experiment with speaker setups, and the one time I tried an open baffle setup, I really loved the sound even though I didn't have any really good drivers.
It just sounded so alive and fun, but indeed there was no proper bass except for a little bit of extremely low bass.
I go back and forth-sealed, ported. I had an older but we’ll know pair of 18 inch subwoofers Kove Armageddons 4 inch coils 55 pounds each 2500-3k rms dual 2ohms out of lazy ness and inexperience I but then in a sealed box-separate chambers of course only had a 3k rms amp one bass track witch is well known to “bass heads”- Bass I love you by Bassotronics sounded beyond incredible. I ended up blowing the subs by 1.not having proper current and I didn’t know I was clipping almost all the time but the coils held up UNTIL I not knowing better started putting 4 inch ports in the box. But it lead me to meet my sub builder so hey I guess it was worth it. Fast forward to today I still play the same song with twice the rms 6k got more then enough current my amp has a clip light so that is awesome. Like I’ve mentioned I’m set to 28-19 hz but that song just does not have the same impact as when I had those 18’s in sealed box and a 3k rms amp. Maybe it’s the cone surface or It wasn’t as loud and powerful as I remember. If my subs were not 90 pounds each-Adire Audio 3001kh’s custom made as well I love to play around with different boxes. Some days I fantasize about just that :). Some do infinite baffle,isobaric chambers you know all different means of getting bass it’s just so much fun being an audiophile.
excellent explanation. Thanks Paul
Hey Paul! What do you think about the "Danny Richie side of open-baffleness"?... because im watching all of his videos in the New record day channel here on youtube, and it looks like he has found a way to have all the benefits that you mentioned about open baffles and minimize all the down sides with high quality crossover networks and smart baffle cabinet designs
I would love to listen to Paul's answer to that one.
I know your comment is old, but I have just seen the videos from N(e)RD and I think most of the "problem" is not so great after all.
The sound from the back has to use time to get to the front and equally does the front sound weaves is using time to get to the back, this means that the front and back sound waves meets in the sides and chancels out there, meaning that you get full sound in the front and back but no sound in the sides, resulting in that you can place your speakers closer to the side wall. Also, if you use some absorbing material to place a little behind the speaker, will you even get a louder bass.
Paul says he is familiar with more box-speakers that he likes than open baffle, and yes it's guaranteed true, but to that story may I add there are only a very few open baffle speakers out there. What he says is a bit like, I know of more Lada cars I like to drive in than Ferrari testarossaes. :-)
Bob Carver developed a open baffle speaker that didn't need an equalizer & had solid bass response down to 20 Hz and was reasonably efficient.
Fed a strong enough signal I was able to rattle windows at 10hz. I could not hear the bass at 10 Hz but the fact that it was rattling windows meant that was definitely reproducing it & not only that but there was no audible harmonics at 10 hz meaning very low distortion even at that low frequency.
The window in question were in a fairly large room & the speakers were along the far wall facing the wall with the windows. Oh this was with an Adcom 100 watt per channel amp so not a huge powerhouse amp.
The only problem is they were quite large & were often referred to as the surfboards from hell. They required a reasonably large room as well.
The version I had had 3 twelve inch woofers each with 2 inches of travel & very small magnets for a twelve inch drivers.
Those small magnets are in large part how Bob achieved bass response without requiring equalization. There was a larger version with 4 of those 12 inch woofers.
I still use a pair of Carver AL-III's that I bought in "95". I've since totally rebuilt the crossovers with much better parts and they're pretty awesome, but they are power hungry and always have been at 86db. The newer OB speakers are much better and I'm looking hard at these : )
Rob seems to really have a great Dad! Thank you so much for all the awesome and interesting videos!
Mr paul ....transistors AB class power amplifiers ,why ? transitor stage 3, 4,5,6,7 ,,,,10...varias type??
I don't know why Magnepan, or electrostats in general were not mentioned. Different driver, similar issues, well loved by a lot of people.
Also, open vs. closed headphones. Many ways to experiment in how different things sound when drivers drive free air in both directions.
What would happen if we place a kind of horn facing backwards from the driver so waves won't interfere with the front projection? Would it fix the wave phase problem?
I love the introduction
I’ll have to get a copy of The Rock and The Tree. This sounds completely assinine, but I didn’t think about phase cancellation. It makes perfect sense now. Thanks for clarifying the topic for me!
So there is no advantage of an open baffle speaker except spatial. The reflected sound output yields the depth and spaciousness that we find with live sound in a good space.
What about building very wide open baffle speakers so cancellations will be lower then?We will not have a box so no boxy natural sound?
Stunning videos ! thanks !
Would love to see a video of correct sealed box density ...for example a sealed speaker will sound way different in a thick concrete walled box vs a wooden one....so how thick should wooden walls be for a particular sub/midbass ? Depending on the wood material chosen of course
I’ve always found that when we used 1” mdf or thicker, we would get great sounding bass vs .75 with all other things being equal
Legacy - LW10RDS 10" Square Woofer 1000W I have these old school woofers I'm trying to figure out what kind of box they go in
Love seeing the Rocket RS250 speaker in the background! I still love my Rockets in my home theater. Wish things didn't go down the way they did at AV123. I still am enjoying many of their products.
Obivoiusly I'm a car audio guy but I come here to learn a different side of audio. But yeah, Open baffle or 'infinite baffle' is a very helpful application in a cars when using doors or rear decks as the speaker baffle. But in a home, where you have the room for boxes upon boxes.. not sure I would opt to go that route. Thanks for the video.
I find it's easier to get the same pitch and texture definition in speakers, top to bottom, with hybrid open baffles.
I do fill in below about 60 Hertz with stereo sealed subs.
My current favourite is the Dayton Audio RSS265HF-4, in 1 foot boxes. Sealed, magnet side out, for maximum internal volume, in the smallest box. Saves a set of connectors, too.
I built a set of Open Baffle MTM using 2ea. Audax HM130CO 5 1/4" and Vifa aluminum Dome tweeter with the rear damping chamber removed so the rear sound of the tweeter is also released. These sit on top of my DIY woofer system each made with HiVi 2ea. W10 woofers in each enclosure to produce the bass frequencies below 200 Hz. I am using a TDM Design 24CX-4 24db per octave Linkwitz Reiley Electronic Crossover set up Stereo 3 way. It sounds great. I have built several closed box systems using active setups and these sound the best to me. More realistic and larger sound stage Amplifiers i have and use are 2ea. ATI AT2505 Emotiva LPA-1, Yamaha DSP-A and many more in the past. Yamaha M-60's Yamaha M-85, Sansui AUX-,1 Sansui B2103's and many others. I have also used many different Electronic Crossovers in the past and still have several.
Spatial audio changed me and alot of people
a mega cool father ....cool kids...thats the way...thanks you all from ps audio
Sound engineering is just amazing thanks Paul
Gee Paul, seems every audio related question I Google returns one of your videos. Great stuff!
Open baffle speakers are velocity sources, closed/ported (including transmission lines) are pressure sources, therefore the biggest difference presents itself in the placement of these in the listening room. You can not place the open baffle where you place the closed/ported box. Closed/ported designs excite the room efficiently when they are placed at the pressure maximums of the room modes, ie. all the room modes have a pressure maximum at the corners, you place them there, you get the maximum room gain (boomy bass). You place the open baffle at the corner, nothing happens, because when there is a pressure maximum, there is a velocity minimum. Velocity is minimum by the walls, therefore you have to move the open baffles towards the center of the room.
The fact that dipoles do not pressurize the room also results in less listening fatigue in my experience
Sorry, but this is not the case. Sound is all pressure and zero "velocity". The speed of sound is dependant on the density of material it flows through. Air has density. There is no pressure in space, and no sound. Yet there is still velocity. That velocity makes zero sound. Therefore, velocity's contribution to sound is zero. [Perhaps you confused the pressure equation of PV=nRT. V is Volume here, not velocity.]
Room modes are entirely geometrically dependant. Wave interference patterns result when the speakers are equidistant from two walls. When you put them into (or near) a corner their distance between each side wall becomes equivalent. You have now generated a node. That node is what you are observing. This is why 12x12 rooms don't sound as good as 10x12 rooms. As you can see, those dimensions are independent of velocity (which is constant in a room at the same altitude). Hopefully this mathematical approach is constructive and allows you to eliminate a "red herring" in your endeavor. Cheers.
@@onebylandtwoifbysearunifby5475 I am extremely sorry that you have received false information from somewhere.Whatever you are saying is so not true, I don't even know where to start. Therefore, it is best that you find it out yourself in your journey because it looks like, with the level of knowledge you have, you are going to oppose to anything I say anyway.
@@oturgator Sound is a pressure wave that travels in a medium at a constant velocity. That velocity is entirely dependant on the density and physical characteristics of the medium. That is why helium balloons make your voice sound higher. Lower density medium.[ Also, take your speakers into a vacuum chamber. No sound? But they still have velocity?? Velocity is therefore Zero contribution. ]
But if we are talking listening rooms, we are talking nitrogen medium. And velocities are all equal.
Hearing is 100% pressure detection. It is a mechanical system. It cannot detect velocity. More pressure is interpreted as louder. More oscillations interoperate frequency. There are no variables for velocity in audition. Extraneous variable will only serve to confuse.
The point here is that all speakers from ear-buds to cones to electrostatic are exclusively pressure drivers and have to obey the same physics regardless of type. Hopefully that confusion has been clarified for all parties. Cheers.
You (or maybe not you) may also consider there is no hard line between "open baffle" and "closed baffle". It is a continuum. There are transmission line midranges that do much of the same by simply taking out the back panel of the box.
"Boxes" made from Acoustic felt is another option. They are sonically transparent, yet still provide some needed pressure wave for the driver to work against. They are "open baffle" with felt behind the driver. (I use these for open baffle mids below 100Hz design criteria with good success).
One great solution is ported midrange. You get a driver with less (cone) travel, so is more accurate with less piston effect.
So "open baffle" is a continuum between air only and ported enclosures (for air pressure mitigation, not ported bass in this context). All of which change the pressure behind the driver, and all have benefits and compromises. Hopefully this helps readers to consider some new approaches in their next design or purchase.
(Sorry for any sour grapes, but physics is physics, as they say. Cheers.)
Yes, but there are fixes or ways around phase cancellation that are very simple to implement. I have an OB with plenty of bass from an 8 inch.
care to elaborate on the simple ways?....
Wide baffle, baffle step compensation and some felt upon the front baffle.
Another simple way is to mount the speakers into a brick wall between two rooms. Works well, but not often implemented.
I still prefer the open baffle, it sounds much more natural
If phase cancellation reduces bass output, how will eq compensate for this? Is there a way to eq the rear output different from the front output?
But what is mechanically different between them? What classifies a sub "open air" thanks
I am an OB fan. If you use woofers of the proper Q and sufficient cone area there is no problem down to somewhere in the 40-50 Hz range. I have no problem augmenting with a sub. It is also not unreasonable to use OB for the mid and up with a sealed woofer enclosure but you do give up some of the natural sounding bass from the OB.
Generally if I am OK with 40Hz lower limit I would go OB for the woofers but my next project I am looking for 30Hz f3 so will probably go with sealed below about 500Hz.
The Mr. Rogers of audio! Great job!
We trust your opinion. I'm with you on the sealed box over open baffle. I run infinite baffle not open subs which is the deepest possible sounds. I'm getting by with open baffle mids for sometime now. They seem to be somewhat thin sounding. Better than loading in boxes that are too small, but... However a propper sealed box is in the works. Your take on horns was also very helpful. I have lots of horns. Echoing, honking but loud! I run ribbon tweeters from now on.
I have some open baffle 12" vintage zenith speakers that came from an old radio cabinet and they sound stunning beyond belief. The bass isn't too great so I use my 8" polk audio sub and it fills the gap perfectly.
your videos are the BEST thing on the internet!!! also Captain Q Yacht Hunter is awesome too!! but for audio your videos rule! rule!!!
Thanks, Matt!
It as a grip on eardrum , the beat sounds better in a cosed box , good solid box , good solid sound
I think the Linn Ninka was a closed speaker. It sounded good.
Are the speakers that are used in open baffle configurations physically different from speakers used in box configurations?
What about ported?
Thanks Paul 👍l totally agree with you
I remember going to a local audio store back in the mid 1980's and being flabbergasted by the bass that I heard (and felt). This was the first time I ever heard bass down to 20hz and it was amazing, you couldn't tell where it was coming from, it seemed to be coming from everywhere and it vibrated your insides. Anyway I walked into the "high end" room where the speakers were, they used transmission line loading and they were quite large, don't recall the brand ... could have been Fried. Nowadays of course you can get bass like that from a "small" subwoofer that has a 12" - 15" driver with a huge motor connected to a 1000-watt amp. I never listened to open baffle speakers but I've seen them before, I would imagine they have a much better (3-D) imaging though believe it or not imaging can be improved greatly by using quality interconnects. About 10 years ago I purchased a used set of Monster M-1 interconnects to go between my Denon surround receiver which I was using as a pre-amp and my Parasound 5-channel power amp. The difference in imaging was amazing!! I was hearing my CDs like I never heard them before, with some sounds being way out in front of the speakers! My B&W 602 S3 speakers never sounded so good.
I'm using open baffle speakers and its sound more natural compared to my boxed type, just my personal preference, but all my audiophile friends love it too. It need to place a little bit further from wall to perform correctly though.
30 years ago when I had no knowledge of Bose and dipole speakers, I had great success with Philips Hi-Q speakers which I opened the back and had them placed at the L + R corners of my room, couple of feet away from the corner walls.
Hi Paul ... is there any new information about open baffle speakers ... Following your channel from Saudi Arabia
If I accept your explanation, and I know your right that phase cancellation is the key to why noise canceling headphones make long trips on planes so much more bearable, however, why can we hear something from an open baffle speaker if it is subject to phase cancellation? It doesn’t make sense.
What a nice chap... subscribed
Hello the only reason I was considering an open baffle is I am running some 12in field coil speakers that are extremely high efficiency with a 20 watts per channel tube amplifier I was expecting very minimal low frequency response out of the speakers and was considering running 2 modern 12 in speakers under the baffled array with a class D amplifier for the low end and using the field coil woofers between 200 and 4000 Hertz for sound quality
Super cool desk
Infinity woofer looks like a Rola unit, probably made by Rola for Infinity
Excuse me I wish to know what happens if you put a subwoofer in a sealed box separate in two equal parts, in one part there is the front wave and in the other part there is the back wave ?
Phase cancelation ? No sound at all ? The box isn't vribating or resonating ? Please let me know...?
The JBL SB-5 had this with 2x 6.5" as a dipole. 3 ports because it was a stereo sub, so the middle port was shared by both channels.
I'm gunna make some open baffle speakers with 10" coaxial drivers (that I built up from separate 1" dome tweeters and 10" "guitar/PA drivers). And a 10" closed box woofer facing down onto the floor beneath the open baffle driver. I have done that before with woofers and I like it. The floor is a "horn" and very effective. On just about all my floor standers, the woofers have to be resisted by several ohms to decrease bass output (to get the best blend with the "bass" on my med/treble drivers). I already have everything to make the open baffle speakers (working on 2 other pairs of speakers @ the moment). Voicing my latest big floorstanders (with semi open cone over a box). And some tiny desk speakers with some "magic" 3" FR drivers and 4" woofer. The 3" ones are really mellow for the driver type and extended highs and cheap. Not one sour note even without any filter thing! Cheers audio nerds!
The 10" guitar speakers will be open baffle? I have always thought they would be good for that because they have a stiff suspension and are often designed to be a unsealed boxes like guitar amp combos.
Paul, I build amplifiers today (at 35) as I did when I was 13. Push-pull mosfet designers are my bread and butter. I love your videos man. They scratch my itch in a way that you may not understand. Also, I really need to box my table top test subwoofer. It sounds like garbage. ;)
Hi Paul, your love for Magnepans, they are a open baffle speaker too, as are all planner speakers. 😀
Absolutely correct.
thank you for you videos they are Great paul they are Educational
what about building them into the wall? Than you have the benefits of both types, baffle and box right?
I made yea4s ago open back square for some pioneer dual cone and a craig fm 8 track powerplay 12w.
They sat on the back dash of 69 4D nova facing forward just fit into the window where they would stay. Couple years later I closed the backs and even my buddy said they were louder open back.
hi Paul. i'm sure you've heard about the QUALIO IQ speakers.. they're semi-open. the Midrange and Tweeter are outside , then the woofer and sub-woofer are boxed in. what do you think about this concept ?. to me. they sound awesome... thank you . great episode
Here's a question for a future video. Many people are changing to efficient LED light bulbs these days. Most of these bulbs contain a small switching power supply to drive the LED. To what extent do you find that these add harmful noise to the AC power that can affect your audio system?
gotham61 all modern electronics use SMPS operating above audio band- the only catch is El cheapos use little or no line filters like capacitors and ferrite chokes causing electrical noises to travel or emit along the line. Triac based electronic fan regulaters also introduce lots of interference if they are not properly designed
These would mostly affect more on AM SW FM radio in that order. So just keep sensitive input & speaker cables isolated, well designed modern amps will take care of noises.
Always Great videos. For an open design concept, one may want to take a look at the Legacy Whisper. I don't get it since it needs a sub but... Oh well!
thanks Bruce great story
Well done Paul, nice explanion as always... I think that you should all of the rest of the "Ask Paul" vlogs from right there at your new desk...
I wonder if one is to use a lot of sound deadening material around the back side of the speaker without boxing it in if that would have a bit of the advantages of an open air system (no resonance and not a lot of back pressure) and not the disadvantage of an open system (freq cancellation due to reflection)?
I am currently rebuilding a radio in a classic car with a single speaker on the front middle part of the dashboard so an open baffle would make my life a lot easier but if the sound improves with sound deadening around the back I would certainly do it. I only have room for a maximum of 3.5 liter enclosure and I am using the 6.5” retrosound stereo speaker. The enclosure would make the build a lot less fun.
I have heard pure audio project open baffle that uses four Eminence 15" drivers per channel and the bass to my ears finally sounded real. If you look at bass guitar cabinets and guitar cabinets the big boys with 4 12" drivers inside they all have open backs the boxes are not tuned or ported or sealed just bracing and an open back. If you take a look at drums they are all open back no drum is sealed or ported. Instruments play in open air not inside boxes.
If you want to be true to the instruments open baffle is it. I have heard many open baffles in the past and never licked them. Once I heard 8 15" speakers in a pair of open baffle speakers I fell in love
Exctly : a bass drum IS a dipole like any other Open Baffle and that's why OB bass is the only way to replicate the sound of a bass drum !
There are not many speakers I would lick either without a Klipsch badge on, sorry just my taste.
Bob Springer if you like horns, then you can make a horn open baffle :)
I think "Emerald Physics" is the name of Liedermann's company.
All nice, but I think it very depends where the speakers located, and how you build an open baffle. 4 example, I’m building a cinema room in a basement, so the room will be sound isolated. I have no much experience with an open one, but I guess it will be the best experience on a live concerts with open baffles, I hope to make a maximum vibration with a minimum volume.
I guess to reduce the cancellation effects, the panel should be big enough, at least 8 -10 inch around the woofer?!
I guess open baffles are not for a regular living room, it will shake everything 🤷🏽♂️
Thank you for video.
Well the funny thing is if you want a box speaker to go down to 40 hz for example you need a big box and a big woofer... And if you want an open baffle to go down to 40 hz... You still need 3 feet behind it and a large enough baffle so basically the front of the box and some space except the open baffle has the benefit of going deeper with less energy lost and it sounds more open and better and they don't shoot sound in all directions just at you so less room interference. I honestly think it's just a lot of hate for open baffles but they're honestly amazing.
That's a cool desk.
What's the difference between open and infinite baffled speakers? Is it just terminology?
Paul said early on in this video it's something he doesn't fully understand (Open Baffle Speakers) you can get where he's coming from I hope, Enclosed Speaker systems are his forte obviously open baffle systems are not. Both designs if done right can sound amazing. Open Baffle designs are not something new they've been around long before I was born but until recently they haven't been explored to see what can be done with them but now we're seeing the design possibilities and advantages the can have and the music realism they can produce.
Thanks you very much for the wise words you have helped me a lot
After having gone with a set of huge baffle for 6 years, its impossible for me to listen to anything else. Everything else sounds like a hollow box almost regardless of the cost.
If you could hear the 'box', then it was not made right.
@@LCRLive687 I agree. Making a non box sounding boxed speaker is incredibly difficult. After hearing open baffles, there are only few speakers I've heard that Id' say are non boxy. The Kef Muon, JBL Synthesis (flagship I heard), and a couple others.
Sorry but you comparison is extremely lopsided. You can't just say take the speakers out of the box put them on a baffle and they won't sound as good as in the box. For starters you are talking about completely different types of drivers to optimise both scenarios. Also OB bass is far superior to boxed bass, but you are going to need 8 times as many bass drivers to achieve the same dB due to roll off. But the bass you get will be far superior. How can you compare a driver that is subject to cone distortion to one free to move as it sees fit?
You sung the praises of servo woofers saying that through time alignment with the amplifier, you could overcome the limitations of the box as the woofer excursion increased. As the woofer travels further and further to produce deeper bass it changes the pressure ratio / timing in the box. With an open baffle the driver is infinitely closer to your servo woofer because it can move freely and unimpeded by back pressure. To be honest I don't believe you have heard truly great open baffle speakers if you can dismiss them so quickly.
Violently agree with the quality of OB bass ! OB is also an easy route to constant directivity speakers !
Yes, but since you need so much more drivers, then you must put much more money into an OB speaker than a CB speaker. Hence the question is for a given amount of money, what is best. And that is closed always, since for a given sound pressure it will be cheaper with a CB speaker than OB. If budget is not involved in the equation, then OB can be the right choice.
@@oysteinsoreide4323 For me the question is more like : do I want to spend twice (or more) on bass drivers for the added quality of the bass : my answer is absolutely yes , no doubt whatsoever
Not sure you need 8x the drivers if you choose the right one. I have experimented for 15 years with OB and have actually built and tested dozens of designs, not theorised from an armchair. My experiments have lead me to what I consider the finest bass/speaker system I have ever heard.
* No baffle. Speakers hung in free air. All baffles colour the sound and cause resonances. In the mid and upper frequencies I found the narrower the baffle, the better the imaging.....but eliminating the baffle altogether gave holographic results. Sure, you lose bass, but you compensate with the woofers. Woofers on baffles, U-Frames, H-frames etc, may increase the bass, but not in a good way......creates room artefacts, nulls & nodes.
* Choose the right woofer. The light paper cone, fabric surround high efficiency designs dont give what I consider bass, even if optimised. What works best are heavy cones, inefficient high Xmax designs with an Fs below 20Hz. I am using 4 Dayton UM18's, locked together in pairs using M6 bolts with 11cm spacers with cones facing each. They are suspended on metal cables by the magnets on a metal hammock style frame and operate in acoustic phase, similar to the Celestion SL6000 system. They are powered by a pair of iNuke NU3000DSP amps and given only dynamic roll-off compensation getting flatter as volume increases.
The bass on this setup is gut wrenching, pure and detailed. It can do subtle jazz, it can do Kraftwerk. It stuns people that have heard it and reaches 110db. No room nodes or nulls.
Cost of this setup, with amps is well under $2k.
Not making this up. 15 years led to this:
mediaprocessor.websimages.com/width/240/crop/0,0,240x500/www.trans-fi.com/System/UMA2.JPG
@@vangelo2252 How can the speakers not interact with the room? They are in a room? Not?
I don't get open baffle systems becuase how do you design and all around crossover? I think you have to design a crossover base on every pacific room type are using them in. The room itself is a box/cabinet correct?
Like a Magnepan?
Well, certainly a Magnepan is an open baffle speaker though I was more referring to a dynamic type with cone woofers.
Walter sells the Emerald Physics open baffles. I have the EP 4.3 and use it with Acourate for a flat response. There is also quintet from pure audio. I need to upgrade mine to EP4.8 someday. Anyways i have no issues with my Ep4.3 over the last 3 years :)
Open baffle is fine for midrange ..200Hz and upwards
I would classify the Infinity IRS V Reference Speakers as an open baffle.
the best open baffle speakers is the linkwitz lx521 and the lx521.4 goes down to 16 Hz, running a ASP. have you listened to one at all Paul and what's your opinion if any! really keen in build one
His fav speaker is open baf. In the show room lol
Hey Paul how are you doing I would love to have an audiobook if you have any magazines thanks
That odd. He doesn't like open baffle speakers but his super setup is open baffle.
well, its not a open baffle in his setup. its endless baffle... different thing. and his woofers in this setup are in sealed boxes so his argument stands
He said open baffle is good in midrange and up. Woofers don't do as well. This is correct, btw.
It has to do with wave launch area of the baffle. Newton showed forces are equal and opposite. In audio that means they need something to push against. Paddle a canoe in water and then use your paddle in air only. Both fluids are moving at the same speed and displacement. The reason you get propulsion when your paddle is in the water is because the fluid has a denser (higher pressure) wave than in the air. Without that pressure you don't get much done.
Same with baffle pressure. The bigger the baffle, the lower frequency a driver can produce. You can get 60Hz from a 1 meter square baffle with a 6in woofer. But that is a big speaker.
Midrange is not so limiting. Open baffle mids and transmission line mids can sound fantastic without the drawbacks of O.B. woofers. That is what he was saying as far as a gathered. So it shouldn't be surprising he has exactly those speakers. He doesn't strike me as a 'dope' or dishonest. [Perhaps you are jaded by american politics ;) ]
Has anyone listened to Jamo R907 or R909?
Are they any good? What about the bass in them? (l am listening to electronic music only)
Great Video thanks
Has anyone heard open baffle speakers designed by Siegfried Linkwitz (R.I.P.), or any other folded baffle designs like RiPole?
I've build Ripoles for 12 and 15 inch subs , also have a near perfect constant directivity pair of 3-way dipoles with dipole AMT tweeters
So I just built my first sealed subwoofer box and, i suppose based on the internet, i built it the wrong way i.e. Perfect square. Will i experience Phase cancellation or Standing waves?
If so what type of filling will I need to compensate this mistake
Hello budy, how are you? Can I use my SEX10D4 subwofeer Re audio in my hatchback car in the cap to make infinite bafle?