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- Опубликовано: 9 фев 2025
- Today we take a look at a standing dead red oak tree and determine if it is ready to burn as firewood, Im using the Kubota MX 5400 and the Stihl MS 261 Chainsaw and an inexpensive general moisture meter.
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I cut, split and burn mostly White Oak because we have an abundance on our place in Northeast Ohio, but for me "Seasoned" means cut, split, and stacked out of the weather for at least a year. My experience with "standing dead" is a cold smokey fire with little heat.
The view from the camera of the tractor coming toward it was beautiful! The lighting through the trees and the shadows was stunning. Great work, Mike! What a wonderful way to start the day.
Have a great day guys. Today is my wife Joyce and my 48th Anniversary and what better way to do it than watching outdoors with the Morgans.!
Thanks for the tip !!! Great to know the range for dry !!! Hello to Hunter !!!
I have cut a lot of those standing dead red oak at our property in upstate NY . Once those logs are split and put out in the sun they will be below 20 percent moisture within a month .
Great Instruction on dry or not dry wood !!👍👊
I have been cutting, and burning wood for about 50 years, and the only wood I have found that will dry on the stump is Sycamore. Ash will burn green, because it has a low moisture content, but still does way better dried.
Another good one! I would have guessed that tree had been dead 3-5 years but I also know that you know a lot more about firewood than I do. Moisture meter sounds like a good Father’s Day gift ❣️ Marcus from Chesapeake VA.
The ole Red Oak is the King of hangin on to moisture...I've seen many people think a standing dead tree just like that can be cut & burned same day...lol....nope! The other mistake people make is thinking they just need to buck it up & it will dry, nope... larger diameter rounds have to be split to properly season. 👍😎🍻
Regardless of the diameter I always think it's good idea to split. Makes drying 100% faster.
Yup, those centers must be exposed to air. They hold moisture as long as they can. Cannot finish until split.
@@markpashia7067 I don't care if it's 3 inches in diameter. I still split it! I agree with you 100%
Left thumb around top chainsaw grip! Thank You!
Mike, here in central Missouri we use a lot of exterior boiler type heating systems with very little chimney so less worry about chimney fires and folks burn that wood all day long as it burns slower and plenty hot. However those who have indoor stoves or fireplaces and even wood furnaces are more careful. Best system I saw was I guy I use to help years ago and we never cut wood until the sap was down so fall/winter cutting. He always would ring the trees he wanted to harvest in Feb when sap was down and let them stand a year dead. Next year we would cut firewood and haul. At home he would split, stack, and cover with barn roofing. When we were done cutting all that he had ringed the year before, he would ring the ones for next year. Meanwhile the ones we split and stacked would air dry for another year before burning to finish off the drying. So yeah, standing dead still needs to be split and such to finish off the drying but that year of standing dead got it very far along the way. And maybe feed a few woodpeckers along the way. Of course he was "improving his woodlot" by harvesting the lesser trees to give his prime lumber trees less competition in order to make more off of his timber harvest which was usually about ten years apart depending on lumber pricing when ready. PS here in Missouri the vast majority of firewood is oak and hickory. Hard to sell anything else except for campfire wood. Personally I kind of like to throw a stick of cedar in once in a while for the aroma.
One other thing. A few folks have figured out that the left over tops of a timber harvest of walnut can make for some easy cheap firewood also. They leave a lot because the tops twist and turn on the mill when trying to make lumber out of walnut. They leave most everything about eight inches diameter and smaller. Walnut does not have as many BTUs but burns nicely and decent heat, so if free it is worth it.
Mike you are so right about the moisture content in firewood. We burn a lot every year, occasionally the wood will be seasoned. Most times we have to let it sit for a year.
Glad you guys like firewood propane guy here after growing up cutting wood with my dad. Turning the thermostat on the wall is a beautiful thing don’t miss it one bit
Awesome advise and very true. A meter will eliminate 1/2 of the firewood sellers. So many selling seasoned wood and surprise it’s NOT seasoned. Mike you touched on another important fact geography/climate. These are definitely different by location. The moisture in the air effects the drying time to cure or season. Well seasoned wood may require mechanical ventilation to aid in that process as well in some areas.
In my neck of the woods, it would wipe out about ninety percent. They cut and split in the woods and then load it sell to avoid handling it more. So it is up to the buyer to stack and dry if they want seasoned. But I guess that is ok if the price takes that into consideration. Firewood is much cheaper here than in the city an hour away.
The red oak was brilliant red and smelled fresh
Hey Mike, Most of my standing dead trees have been Ash and Cherry and the have all read below 20 on the meter. I believe the red oak takes longer to season.
This man has no clue what he’s talking about. Always trust your own gut and do your own research. Oak always takes 2-3x longer :)
There's nothing like the smell of a rack of fresh split oak drying in the summer sun.
mcycle12,
Some people hate the smell! I wonder what is wrong with them?
I don’t trust them!!!
Mike - Great information regarding moisture in trees, even those that are standing dead trees. Wish I had known about moisture meters back in the 70s and 80s when I was heating my home with wood in Missouri. I had a flu fire as a result of burning green wood, and chose to purchase from a different guy from then on. The second guy was honest, and we did a fair amount of business over the years. Blessings to you, Melissa, and your family. Hi Hunter - always great to see you and your sisters in the videos.
Not dry but alot harder to cut. In NE Ct I cut standing dead red oak and it is like rock compared to green wood. Great topic.
Great video! Thanks for clearing that up!
Mike, consider splitting this and then testing it every 10 days or so to show the rate of drying. Perhaps even compare it to a green split round. In central PA many of the oak burning folks like their wood to be cut, split, covered, and dried for 2 years prior to burning.
Same thing for a lot of folks in Minnesota. Less creosote in the chimney.
@@maryblaylock6545 Mary what part of Mn. are you from? I am near Cloquet.
I have a old wood/coal furnace not air tight like the newer ones the older gentleman that put my flue liner in told me years ago seasoned wood was ready in 6 months. I cut mine a year in advance and sometimes if I need a load in a pinch I will cut a dead oak or ash and burn it with no problem. Like mike said u can tell as soon as u cut it if its to damp.
Yep depending on the weather that could below 15% in a month?
@@waltermattson5566 Twin Cities. I haven't been to Cloquet in about 15 to 20 years. We got rain very early this morning.
I learned something in today’s video about the moisture content of firewood. Thanks Mike!
I am selling firewood as fast as I can get it in. Around here if the bark is off, the top 1/3 of dead standing oak trees is ready to sell. I cut up the limbs too. Those are usually quite dry down to the first "Y" of the tree. The next 1/3 is around 24 to 26%. It is ready in a week or two once its split and stacked. The bottom is around 30 as you showed on your video. That can take a long time to dry.
If the bark is on, it has a higher moisture content by far.
Hi Mike. I use same moisture meter and prefer to get down to 15% in oak and 20% in ash. The 2 most common wood I burn here in SE Pa. Have about 120 ash logs to buck and split due to ash bore.
Very true Mike, some of the wettest wood I have handle is dead Red Oak. And that almost all that I cut.
I seem to lose that weight fast, once you split it.
And it loses a lot of weight as It dries.
Greetings from Central NH (Lake) - Good video, major misconception about standing dead. Thanks for passing along the real situation.
The bottom will always be wetter, the tops of trees die first, and sap gets pulled to the stump trying to save itself. It’s why fatwood is made of pine stumps, that’s where all the pine resin is. Also, as you know, the bigger the wood, the longer it takes to season. Once it’s split it will dry fast. Good video.
Good morning Mike. Have a great day. God Bless.
That makes sense Mike. Out here in Alberta we are semi-arid in the foothills of the Rockies at 4400' ASL. We get Chinook winds all year around and once a spruce or pine dies it is dry and ready to burn in two years. On the other hand trembling aspen or black poplar, which is a cottonwood type tree, will NOT be ready to burn as standing dead after two years. Once wood is split and stacked here with the dry air you can season wood in 6 or 7 months in the summer. Like you said depends on where you live.
I'd place the lower section on the bottom of the wood stack and the top on the top. Hope to find dryer trees/logs along the time. Not a bad summer start !
Dead standing trees in my area, the PNW, are usually dry in a couple of years. We mostly have soft woods like pine, douglas fir, white fir and western larch. I have found that the lodgepole pine will dry the fastest if cut dead standing. Its a fair firewood but can burn quickly. The local preferences are the doug fir and larch which burn much hotter and longer.
Good morning Mike, really good advice about the moisture meter 👍👍. Looking good around there, got lots of wood to be harvested so you all will be busy all summer around there with all your planned projects. Thanks for sharing with us. Fred.
Good information, thanks for sharing!
Great video.....yes, Red Oak is a very dense wood and holds moisture longer then most hardwoods, even standing dead. But it’s shows most wood holds moisture longer, the closer it is to the base. Not much can beat a good moisture meter...the best way to tell. Thanks for showing the real deal! 🤴🏻👍🤠
I learned something new today. Thanks Mike
The only standing dead tree I would say is good to burn in our area, SE Wisconsin, is dead elm with no bark. I consider it emergency firewood. Our only heat for nearly 40 years has been wood. There have been a few occasions where standing dead elm got us through the winter. It actually burns a little better to get it under cover for a week or two after cutting before burning.
In SE Ohio, dead barkless Osage Orange is very dry and burns hot.
Nice video & tip. Some people will burn wet wood and be upset with all the smoke or the fact it won't burn. Stay safe
Just purchased a sthil 291 from my local Rural King today
Good One will go out and get a moisture meter.
great job
I found a few of them call them bleached bone wood no bark on them and their bleached white never had a problem with them straight to the wood burner when you hit them together they sound Halo. Maybe was lucky nice video
Mike I seen right away like you that the second piece of wood was wet , but the first piece I wood put it into a fire that is going pretty good, the heat from the fire will dry it petty fast and also it will last longer.
I purchased that exact same meter after watching the video by Life In Farmland. I love removing the guesswork but mine seems pretty spiratic. Different readings when checking the same spot on the same peace of wood several times.
You sure can give some great advice. I got me one of those meters , works great takes all the guess work out 👍
Great way to start the day with a little knowledge. Have a wonderful day!
Good information, Thanks
After watching this video, I was curious about a standing dead walnut tree that has been standing in one of my fence lines for about two years. After I took it down, I cut a section, split it and tested it with a moisture meter and was quite surprised to find that it had a moisture content of 15 percent. This is probably due to the fact that since it was in a fence row surrounded by open fields as compared to the one you had that was in a shaded woods.
Mike going old school with the double bit axe. Buckin' Billy Ray would be proud.
7úsx we
Would like to hear what your thoughts are on what would make good boots for working in the woods and operating the tractor. Is there a significant difference between boots for use in a shop, on a construction site, and in the woods?
Dave S. I purchased a pair of logging boots from a American Company called 'Westcos' great boot for line work, logging, steel shank,speed laces, great arch support, and they will rebuild them when needed. They were hard to break in, but you could wear them 16 hrs a day. Pricey, but better than Red wings, Danners, Carolina's.
I got a cheaper pair from redwing (their cheap is still a lot) and so far they've held up great and are pretty comfortable once they're broken in. I haven't cut much firewood on them because they're not steel toe and my cheaper boots are. I know people say that you don't need steel toe if the surface you're standing on isn't solid, but it's a nice added security when you're messing with things that weigh more than a truck.
@@JohnSmith-tv5ep Thank you! I feel like picking a new pair of boots is tougher than buying an older used truck.
@@foolwithatool2052 Thank you. I appreciate your thoughtful advice.
@@daveschmidt5713 They're a bear to break in, but what a difference! As I said before, They're pricey, but comfortable after breaking them in,and when I sent them back, they kept my uppers and rebuilt the whole bottoms from the ankle seam down! Leather color didn't match, but my feet didn't care!
Bark holding on to the bottom part will hold more moisture in. Figured it should be higher. Nice comparison Mike. Keep up the great content ✌️
I cut standing dead every year. I cut two or three weeks worth and burn it and go get more. I stay away from oak cuz it does take a few days to dry. Hickory is my favorite. From the woods to the stove with no problems. I burnt 12 cords every year if that means anything
Mike, enjoy the videos. I have a 271 Stihl and it is therapeutic every time I have an opportunity to run it. I had the honor of getting a lot of training and tips on chainsaw operation from a very renowned chainsaw trainer. I find myself watching how others operate their saws. I noticed that you tend to have your left thumb on the handle rather than around it. As much as I prefer that way also, I have found it to be much better to wrap the thumb around the handle as recommended by all operation trainers. Safest way to operate.
The worse thing about cutting down a completely dead tree, like a green ash, is once it hits the ground, all the smaller branches just shatter making an awful mess to clean up. That is why I prefer to cut down a dying tree as it keeps most branches intact or really close to the tree after it has fallen.
When you cut a live, healthy tree for firewood, what would that one read on the moisture meter?
Definitely a moisture meter does help but I don't sell wood I gave a couple of loads to my neighbor and we just burn it I can kinda tell if it's seasoned or not thanks for the video mike
Hey Mike I absolutely agree with you on this. I do think once the wood is cut and split it will dry much faster than a it’s brother that was cut live. Never did a meter test to compare, but that’s my impression after cutting my own firewood in upstate NY since 1977. Great video as always!!
Great video you could hear it when you hit the stump piece I guessed 35%
I’ve just started cutting up a fallen tree that has been down for 30 years and was in the range of 30’s, 70’s and 80’s. This tree is an Australian hardwood “Gum” tough as nails! It looked in the same condition as your tree did, but a bit bigger in size and approximately 150’ long and approximately 4’ dia at the base down to about 2’ dia at the top. It’s taken a bit of doing to cut it up, but I’m getting there. Hopefully it burns ok when properly dry? The moisture meter really comes in to a class of its own In these situations. Thanks for sharing your video.
I can tell if it is "dry" or not but that meter takes all the guess work out for sure. I may be investing in 1.
I have the same one that moke has and i love it. I try to burn under 15% moisture.
Great video. I learned a lot!
Good info. Thx
if the bark is off and at the base of the tree is moist, then split it, store inside. it will dry out quickly
Mike, thank you for posting a link to the moisture metre. I have been trying to find one of those in my area for a while and nobody has one like that. Just ordered one thanks again.
Good morning Mike Great video very interesting topic , learned something today ,. Hunter , have a day .
Nice demonstration. Have a great day.
i did a video about moisture meters and how essential they were for firewood production / buying , my god the negative comments i got were unreal
You are so right Mike. I have my trusty moisture meter and when I go to see about firewood (if I buy any) I check the moisture content before I make any decision. sometimes the seller gets a panicked look on their face when you pull out the meter. lol Have a day
Great topic, Mike. I know a lot of guys fall over themselves to get that wood. Looks like the lesson is no rush needed!
🪓🪓🪓
Just curious. Why are you concerned about the moisture when you won't be selling it for quite awhile?
Jimmy and Kathy Harrell really? The whole time he did this was to show the moisture content in that log. At no time was he saying he was gonna sell it.
Totally an information video for those not as experienced in the woods. I found it very informative, and feel if an emergency I could cut a standing tree down and go to the higher branches to burn.
Good discussion.
MC is also affected by humidity amongst other factors
Mike I agree standing dead are not ready to burn but when I was cutting my own firewood I removed the dead standing dead first because of the hazard they are presenting. I never cut and split and immediately burned. That wood sat in the wood house for 10-12 months before burning. I do not believe any wood really dries well until it is split and the interior wood is exposed.
The ambient humidity has an impact on the moisture content of firewood... Here in the N.E., if you measure it in the middle of February it will likely be dryer than at the end of May. As such that tree may have passed the 20% test a few months ago. That's why even if I've had hardwood boards in my lumber shed for 10 years I still let them sit in my warm dehumidified shop before I use them for fine woodworking. This matters now but 200 years ago the inside of homes weren't much different from the outside in regards to humidity so it was less of an issue.
That was a good demonstration Mike.
Mike, Good to see you haven't forgot how to split wood with an ax. No hydraulics needed.
Not so sure about the "no hydraulics" part. Seems like my heart is pumping pretty good when splitting by hand!!! Just a different fluid.
I can vouch for oak, the limbwood may dry in a year or so but anything over about 4 inches will not be dry in a year, over six in two, and that is without the bark. Oak dries about 1-1 1/2 inches a year and some species of oak start at almost 50% moisture.
Great video Mike and I was wondering the same thing. I have a standing oak that died last year and was thinking when to drop it. I have the same moisture meter as well.
Be safe out there and God Bless :)
That was a great video, thanks 👍
Have you considered a smallish trailer for hauling rounds.
Just my opinion. I think the statement ready to burn means. A standing dead tree is ready to burn after a few months drying out. A dead log will loose the little moisture it has very fast. If you don’t have a moisture meter you can do the old take two pieces and snack them together. Lol Very big difference of sound when two dry logs are smacked then when not ready to burn are smacked. Great videos. I like and appreciate the frequency of you doing so many. I almost always can count on one when I wake up with my coffee. So what’s your opinion on the grapple? I remember it didn’t seem to work as well as the other one. Or maybe you addressed this and I just missed the comment.
Good morning everyone!
Great video Mike. I'm curious as to what moisture content would be in the same tree species of it was alive and kicking.
I live in N.C. and cut down a live willow oak. I used the same moisture meter as Mike. I checked the moisture the next day on top of the stump and it was 35%.
there are a lot of variables with that question. If you cut with the sap up in summer it will be a whole lot higher than if you cut in the dead of winter with the sap down. Also standing dead that died with sap up is different than standing dead that died with sap down.
I always check my wood with a moister meter, and so far it has been between 17% and 12%
I bought one of those moisture meters after you showed it in one of your earlier videos. I am trying to flatten a 9' long X 22" wide slab of ash and the content is low enough but it keeps warping. It was stickered and stored log enough but the day after I hauled it home and brought it into my shop, it lost the flatness it had. It will be expensive if I have to turn it into firewood. Nah, I wouldn't do that. I'll wait.
Stickered and stored is not enough for green wood. You need the weight of a whole stack to where the forces that warp are offset by other boards trying to warp and twist in other directions. Best to buy kiln dried unless you can stack multiples and weigh them down with something long enough to dry to the meter.
Mike, why is there still that much moisture in a standing dead tree. That's how I do or fire wood, I drop a few dead one's each year. I never new to look. Thanks Jay
Nice one Mike nice looking axe too
Good luck 👍
I burn alot of red oak and tryin split and stack it as i bring it home. I usually get wind blown or storm damaged trees thatd been alive. I split mine about 3x3" to 4x4" and stack it in direct sun so the wind blows over it mist if the time,and i dont cover it unless we're expecting snow. If i get it cut in early spring its usually down to around 18% by late fall. I have had it dry earlier depending on the weather and humidity. I have even got myself in situations where i had to burn greener wood with a 25%+ moisture content. It sucked,but we didnt freeze to death. It burns liw smokey,and is hard to keep goin. As far as ruining your chimney,ive never seen excess creasote or buildup
Hello, i gave a few red oak here in Sardis City, Alabama that ill be cutting down soon. Do you think those kinda trees would make for lumber?
love the instructional videos
Need a dump trailer like you had before
Thanks for the information mike I've been scammed before but not anymore love from TEXAS
Very good information. Did not know this.
Mike you should track those pieces of wood to see how long it takes to get under 20% moisture.
I rarely consider wood that hasn't been cut & split to be dry. What I was told is that 1. It doesn't dry till you split it. 2. Bark keeps it from drying, the less bark, the better. 3. Air movement is better than sun for drying. Having said that, there are some trees around here that have been dead for longer than this one. All of the bark AND sapwood is gone, leaving only the center. Even that stuff seems reluctant to burn. Occasionally, I'll run across a small (less than 4 inch) standing maple that's dry.
i'd like to know moisture of a dead tree with all the bark....and a live tree just cut...
Very interesting. I happen to have the very same moisture meter and use it on occasion, though the firewood that I cut and burn is an outdoor fire not a fireplace. One thing that I am curious about... I don't store my cut/split firewood under cover, it's just outside in a stack. In my climate (north Florida) we get a lot of rain. I wonder how much moisture cut/split wood takes in when it rains and how quickly it dries out.
The rain falls and dries without much effect, although lengthy rains and extended humidity eats at drying time. Time in heat/sun and airflow determines.
The dead gray limbs on standing red oak are the best biscuit wood you’ll ever find.
Hallo morgans your new video right after work that rocks the day
Mike, how do you deal with ticks, chiggers, mosquitoes, and/or poison ivy? And what do you use on Piper, Ruger, and Archie? (Inquiring Minds in Northern Virginia want to know...)
Hey Mike , great tip using a cheap moisture meter, it cuts to the chase, no guessing .......also, who won the pair of Boots?