Great video overall and very helpful. Did my drivers side today but it took over 5 hours due to some unforeseen issues needing multiple trips to the store. Here are some of the issues I had in case it helps anyone that is new to this like me. First, my 3/8 socket wrench was not long enough, and did not have enough leverage to break loose the bearing bolts. Needed to go out and get a 3/8 breaker bar, as I only had a 1/2. Second, when I finally knocked off the old hub and bearing assembly, the bearing was broken in half, leaving half stuck on the vehicle. Needed to buy a slide hammer to pound the second half of the bearing out. Lastly, I didn’t realize my bearing install kit required a socket much larger than anything I owned for the main driver bolt. Also, was my first time using the bearing press kit so took a minute to figure that out. So hopefully the passenger side will go much smoother tomorrow now that I know what to expect, and won’t have to make 3 trips to the store. Thanks @Foreign Werks and good luck to everyone else taking this project on!
@@rrusin1 I definitely hear ya! These bearings can be a hit or miss. Some are easy and some are stuck on there! I hope the passenger side goes smoothly and wish you the best of luck! I feel like you are armed with all the tool needed to knock it out! You got this!!
How did you get that fourth bolt out on the bottom left? Or did you just reuse it with the new bearing? I can’t get that one out because it is blocked by another bolt I think from a ball joint.
@@rrusin1 yes it’s the ball joint nut that’s on the way. You can remove the nut to give you room to remove the bolt. Or just go ahead and reuse the triple square no harm. I mean there are three fresh bolts that are going to be installed.
Sorry for the delay response! There are lots of different torques specs. I torqued my triple square hub bolts to 80nm +90 degrees. The main center axle bolt was torqued to 140 ft lb + 180 degree.
Why not just buy a preassembled hub and bearing unit? Especially if you’re replacing the hub anyway. Is there any advantage to pressing them together yourself?
@@brittonjohnson2306 I looked for a pre-assembled unit . I could not find one. FCP,Ecs and Rm European sell their units separately. Takes less than a minute to press the hubs in.
@@p5a0c3o it’s the same process. The only thing you might need is a swivel socket. The triple square bolts holding the hub are a tad bit in a tight space.
Great video overall and very helpful. Did my drivers side today but it took over 5 hours due to some unforeseen issues needing multiple trips to the store. Here are some of the issues I had in case it helps anyone that is new to this like me. First, my 3/8 socket wrench was not long enough, and did not have enough leverage to break loose the bearing bolts. Needed to go out and get a 3/8 breaker bar, as I only had a 1/2. Second, when I finally knocked off the old hub and bearing assembly, the bearing was broken in half, leaving half stuck on the vehicle. Needed to buy a slide hammer to pound the second half of the bearing out. Lastly, I didn’t realize my bearing install kit required a socket much larger than anything I owned for the main driver bolt. Also, was my first time using the bearing press kit so took a minute to figure that out. So hopefully the passenger side will go much smoother tomorrow now that I know what to expect, and won’t have to make 3 trips to the store. Thanks @Foreign Werks and good luck to everyone else taking this project on!
@@rrusin1 I definitely hear ya! These bearings can be a hit or miss. Some are easy and some are stuck on there! I hope the passenger side goes smoothly and wish you the best of luck! I feel like you are armed with all the tool needed to knock it out! You got this!!
I can’t get the bolts holding the bearing in place off on my s4. I’ve never been good with suspension. Great video cheers from Chicago
@@TheJosephhomere13 email me. I’ll help you take them off brother!
How did you get that fourth bolt out on the bottom left? Or did you just reuse it with the new bearing? I can’t get that one out because it is blocked by another bolt I think from a ball joint.
I can’t swap it out and put one of the new bolts in because I can’t get that one out of the housing
@@rrusin1 yes it’s the ball joint nut that’s on the way. You can remove the nut to give you room to remove the bolt. Or just go ahead and reuse the triple square no harm. I mean there are three fresh bolts that are going to be installed.
About to do this - what grease do you recommend ?
@@masssinner go with any high temp grease! I usually use the tacky red (Lucas).
@@Fwerks.1592 Just wondering do you have to put it into service mode - or anything in obd
@ nothing on the obd. Just make sure to put the S6 on jack mode through the MMI. Which is in the car Settings.
@@Fwerks.1592 sounds good, to late now but tomorrow morning, thanks!
What’s the torque specs for the 4 12mm bolts holding the bearing to the hub, and torque spec for the main 19 mm bolt?
Sorry for the delay response! There are lots of different torques specs. I torqued my triple square hub bolts to 80nm +90 degrees. The main center axle bolt was torqued to 140 ft lb + 180 degree.
@@Fwerks.1592thank you so much
Why not just buy a preassembled hub and bearing unit? Especially if you’re replacing the hub anyway. Is there any advantage to pressing them together yourself?
@@brittonjohnson2306 I looked for a pre-assembled unit . I could not find one. FCP,Ecs and Rm European sell their units separately. Takes less than a minute to press the hubs in.
Awesome video! Is it the same process for the rear?
@@p5a0c3o it’s the same process. The only thing you might need is a swivel socket. The triple square bolts holding the hub are a tad bit in a tight space.