Boy, this takes me back. I was an airbrush illustrator for many years, and the Paasche remains my favorite. It just felt so sturdy. My Iwata was capable of finer atomization but I just didn't feel comfortable using a device so finicky and, well, expensive. Most people don't know that a Paasche can give you a line of comparable thin-ness to an Iwata, although it won't last more than 30-60 seconds. Paint build-up on the aircap and needle will force you to do some cleaning. I never understood why anyone would use anything other than the long, tapered VL-1 aircap and needle, not pictured in this video. They give you the finest lines, but I also used them to spray large areas. The other sizes were useless to me. I found that a pointy tortillon or stomp, commonly available in art stores as a drawing accessory, was the perfect size to clean the longer VL-1 aircap. I used diluted ammonia as my cleaner. Nowadays, people frown on that practice, but ammonia proved to be the best at instantly dissolving Badger acrylic airbrush paint. Wow. Do they even make that paint anymore? In the '80s, it was all the rage in the world of airbrushing. I still have a few bottles around here somewhere.
Helpful video. I'm fairly new to airbrushing. I got a Paasche VL first and an Iwata Neo next. I have done a wide variety of projects with the VL. I really enjoy it, and so far don't feel the need for anything more expensive.
I’ve had my VL for 25+ years! Recently took it apart to get it working again (needs cleaning big time). Question: what is the dial (textured like a guitar string) on top of the shell body (it rotates left or right)? I’ve always wondered what that thing does but didn’t know (and my manual doesn’t mention it) so I never messed with it. Does it adjust the needle tension nut (how loose/tight the needle moves through the shell body)? Great video. When I first got my VL back in the 90’s there was no RUclips. Everything I learned was trial and error. I use an Iwata now (mainly for the top feeding cup feature which I much prefer) but I look forward to getting my old Paasche cleaned up and running again. Thanks.
Hello! Sorry for the delay in my reply. The roller in front of the trigger, pushes the trigger back to set line/spray width. Check out video #12 at 9min. 31 seconds where I show the adjuster. Hope this helps, and hope you get it cleaned up and airbrushing again.
Do you know how to get the "line adjuster" out of the body? I spun the wheel and the wall/stopper came out, but was kind of clueless after that. I was trying to clean/ rebuild bits of mom's VL (also 30 ish years old) I've accidently abused through learning recently. Thanks for all the informative uploads!
I've never taken this part out. If I do mess with it and get it out... I'll surely let everyone know how to put it back in. Thanks for watching my videos.
@@griffinartandairbrushing3174 got brave and figured it. You rotate the wheel until the stopper comes out. I had to help mine a little at the very end. Then you pinch the wheel and pull it out from the top, being careful, because it's a captured spring in between two discs. Awesome! I've basically got Mom's VL rebuilt. Probably not putting in the new style air valve stuff and trigger.
Boy, this takes me back. I was an airbrush illustrator for many years, and the Paasche remains my favorite. It just felt so sturdy. My Iwata was capable of finer atomization but I just didn't feel comfortable using a device so finicky and, well, expensive. Most people don't know that a Paasche can give you a line of comparable thin-ness to an Iwata, although it won't last more than 30-60 seconds. Paint build-up on the aircap and needle will force you to do some cleaning.
I never understood why anyone would use anything other than the long, tapered VL-1 aircap and needle, not pictured in this video. They give you the finest lines, but I also used them to spray large areas. The other sizes were useless to me.
I found that a pointy tortillon or stomp, commonly available in art stores as a drawing accessory, was the perfect size to clean the longer VL-1 aircap. I used diluted ammonia as my cleaner. Nowadays, people frown on that practice, but ammonia proved to be the best at instantly dissolving Badger acrylic airbrush paint.
Wow. Do they even make that paint anymore? In the '80s, it was all the rage in the world of airbrushing. I still have a few bottles around here somewhere.
Really Love your choice of intro music.
Helpful video. I'm fairly new to airbrushing. I got a Paasche VL first and an Iwata Neo next. I have done a wide variety of projects with the VL. I really enjoy it, and so far don't feel the need for anything more expensive.
Thanks DJ! Glad you enjoyed the video and that it was helpful!
I’ve had my VL for 25+ years! Recently took it apart to get it working again (needs cleaning big time). Question: what is the dial (textured like a guitar string) on top of the shell body (it rotates left or right)? I’ve always wondered what that thing does but didn’t know (and my manual doesn’t mention it) so I never messed with it. Does it adjust the needle tension nut (how loose/tight the needle moves through the shell body)? Great video. When I first got my VL back in the 90’s there was no RUclips. Everything I learned was trial and error. I use an Iwata now (mainly for the top feeding cup feature which I much prefer) but I look forward to getting my old Paasche cleaned up and running again. Thanks.
Hello! Sorry for the delay in my reply. The roller in front of the trigger, pushes the trigger back to set line/spray width. Check out video #12 at 9min. 31 seconds where I show the adjuster. Hope this helps, and hope you get it cleaned up and airbrushing again.
Do you know how to get the "line adjuster" out of the body? I spun the wheel and the wall/stopper came out, but was kind of clueless after that. I was trying to clean/ rebuild bits of mom's VL (also 30 ish years old) I've accidently abused through learning recently. Thanks for all the informative uploads!
I've never taken this part out. If I do mess with it and get it out... I'll surely let everyone know how to put it back in. Thanks for watching my videos.
@@griffinartandairbrushing3174 got brave and figured it. You rotate the wheel until the stopper comes out. I had to help mine a little at the very end. Then you pinch the wheel and pull it out from the top, being careful, because it's a captured spring in between two discs. Awesome! I've basically got Mom's VL rebuilt. Probably not putting in the new style air valve stuff and trigger.
@@ChapterMasterDad Cool, thanks for the info!
Wrong in so many ways!