Finish Sanding Wood Before Paint (GRITS and TOOLS)
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 10 июл 2024
- In this video we talk about what grits to sand to before painting, staining, or sealing your guitar. We also talk about what tools to use to do that sanding, and how to make sure you have a nice smooth surface before you move on to the painting stage.
Find the sanding blocks etc.: www.amazon.com/shop/bradangove
(commission link)
Check out the guitar kits and luthier tools I use: www.solomusicgear.com/?ref=1512
Support the channel: / bradangove
Or by PayPal donation to: Brad@Angove.biz
Follow me on instagram: / brad.angove
Follow my Facebook: / bradangovepainting
My favourite spray guns: www.warwickspraytools.com/dea... (Use coupon code: BRAD10%)
Don't forget to ask your questions in the comment section.
Thanks for watching.
To get in touch with me with your questions, photos, etc. use the links below!
Follow me on Twitter: / brad_angove Видеоклипы
I don’t use power tools to prep sand anymore. You end up spending just as long getting the little swirls out than any time it saves. Hand sanding guitars is also therapeutic.
just about to order my first DIY kit...just discovered this amazing channel...sometimes life is good!
Glad I could help
I use a small piece of rubber garden hose and wrap the paper around it. If it's warm out the hose is very malleable. If it's cold out dunk the hose in hot water for 30 seconds. Perfect for curvy areas. FYI
Intriguing idea
Perfect timing! I’m building right now!
Rocking video Brad!!!! As always, super practical and very useful!
Thanks Jay!
Todays sanding class was spot on, Brad.
Thanks Brian. A necessary evil of finishing. I wish I could outsource all my sanding haha.
I've never been a sanding block fan either, I'll have to look at some of your other content to be fair teaching and looking after the missus has got me pretty bogged down at the moment especially with the covid , take care, enjoyed the content, have a great new year 👍
This is great. I wish I'd found this before I started. Great channel Brad.
Thank you
Hey Brad! I got the body about a week and a half ago, and I love it! With scrapers, you do not sharpen them, they must be burnished to maintain a perfectly straight edge. The eraser is a great tip. I never thought of that in all the years I've worked with wood!
Hi George; glad to hear you like the body. I’m looking forward to seeing what you do with it.
You can burnish scrapers a few times between sharpening, but after enough use you actually do need to sharpen them to square everything back up and get the burs smooth again. Then you re burnish and you’re back in business.
Good info. I use white bar erasers for a lot of finish sanding.
Thanks for this video
It helps my confidence before making custom body
Btw I love the idea of this huge block. I'll try to get myself one for sanding flat surfaces flat
Thanks Arther. Yeah the huge block is nice.
I used your videos on a guitar I built. I got the color scheme right but I was incredibly impatient regarding sanding and clear coat. Lol. This will be put to use. On to the next one! Thanks for the video.
Thanks Colton. I hope the next one goes well!
Your videos always make me want to build more guitars.
I assume that’s a good thing?
@@BradAngove definitely!
Brad, you don't talk too much. You learn by listening to people.
Thanks Andy.
Wow bro so adorable work 👍😍and I am very motivated from you ,,,... So I love your videos always love from India 🇮🇳
Thanks Barun
7:10 that’s what she said! Anyway, I’m working on this les Paul diy project and you have answered all my questions, thanks dude
Glad I could help
Automotive paint stores sell a variety interesting shaped sanding blocks that will handily accommodate any curve in a guitar body. I've also wrapped sandpaper around empty vitamin bottles to sand the upper bouts and sides on a Telecaster body.
Vitamin bottles is a great idea!
Brad, I wish I would have watched this a week ago. I'm finishing a guitar for the first time in gun stock oil over dye. I usually do 320 then filler then 320 then sealer then work up to about 600 then paint. Next time I'll go higher. I keep several pieces of various diameter PVC pipe for sanding cutaways both for dry and wet sanding. Thanks for the video.
Sounds like you’re doing just fine John. I assume it’s working for you? I’m not sure I told you anything in this video you don’t already know.
PVC pipe for sanding cutaways is a good idea. Thanks.
These vids are perfect for me , building a Tom delonge replica strat so will be using these for each step
Excellent. Glad I could help.
i remember seeing microscope images of wood fibres after both scraping and sanding to the same smoothness, the scraped/blade cut surface clearly showed the pores of the wood as oval-shaped holes whereas the sanded surface was all chewed up and ragged looking, the pores were barely visible. it's arguable, but i think that's a clear win for scraping before application of finish.
If you’re doing a finish that’s intended to accent grain pattern, scraping is fantastic.
Prep is everything, 90% of any paint job or staining. Do not put any coating on till you have it right. Sometimes I will prime it lightly to see if I have any flaws, then sand again to get it right, but staining does not give you that option. Thanks for the video.
Hi Brad, when you mention sandpaper grits - are you talking FEPA grading (P-prefix) or CAMI grading (USA)?
Always useful information Brad, thanks. What's the difference between a clearcoat and a varnish on top of a dye job?
Varnish is a type of clear coat in a sense. There are many different types.
Nice. I was spoiled by being on some construction projects with a variety of big adhesive backed sandpaper rolls that we cut to fit various shapes and sizes of sanding apparatus. Lol Just letting go of the grip on the paper noticeably reduced fatigue in my jack hand. Lol
You can put it on almost anything. A lot like portlandia puts a bird on it. Lol
Almost had to switch hit for a while? Dangerous game.
Exactly. Lol carpal tunnel ain’t easy. Lol
Hmmmmmmmm Dura Block.....very, very good call!!
They’re great. In most cases when it comes to sanding and finishing I think - if it’s good enough for a car it’s probably good enough for a guitar.
👍👍
Hey brad little confused on something that I hope you can help with, in your two videos on dupi color spray cans you said you can spray the filler/primer over sealer on a guitar body I believe, but in the videos you sanded on the sealer off. I have a strat body right now I want to paint but it has sealer on it so not sure if I should sand it before I start painting. Thanks.
I sanded the sealer smooth. You don’t necessarily sand it off, but it raises the grain when it gets sprayed on so you need to sand it smooth before moving on to your paint.
Hey Brad, would you recommend using a scraper on a carved top? I have thought about it on the LP that I’m building, but I haven’t tried it. The top is redwood and heavily grained with high and low spots between the grain; sort of like quilted maple. I have had to strip it once, because of the high harder grain lines being exposed, because shrinkage of the clear coat before level sanding. Not realizing that, I sanded through the clear coat. Redwood is a real challenge, but I will get there. I won’t give up on it, but I would like to get it right this time. I believe I am going to switch to nitrocellulose instead of lacquer, but I am cautiously optimistic about that.
They make curved scrapers, so in short, yes I think a scraper is a good option for a carved top.
So, I am paint my first body. Can just use primer, or what do I use for filler prior to primer? Final grit prior to primer/filler is 320?
320 is fine. On the other question it depends on how porous the wood is.
I stop at 320 and still feel like a light swipe with a fresh piece of sandpaper will knock some fuzzies off similar to a scraper.
I'll only go into 800+ grit if I'm gonna do a ton of coats and then buff it.
I would have thought it would be the opposite.
@@BradAngove I hear you. But I think theory and proper preparation answers both methods.
- When we surface wood, it's just like cutting a bundle of straws at a slight angle. You get these long whiskery ends on some straws, so you can go back with a multi-blade razor that grabs them and cuts them flush sooner, ala sharp sandpaper like cubitron ii.
-- The cabinet scraper idea seems to be also valid, because the sub fibers support the upper fibers in a way that gives you a perfect cut, which implies that I'm bad at using a scraper, and that's a very real possibility.
Oh, I meant the opposite aka 800 grit vs 320 grit.
@@BradAngove I agree, 800 is super fine for bare wood. Red cedar with white sap wood is the only time I've ever benefitted from going over 320. It smells good when you sand it. I never finish it anymore. Great for closets. Keeps the moths out.
good video. Im thinking of using water based acrylic spray paint because its to cold to paint outside. Have you ever used water based clear coat? Is it any good? PS Im with Carl on this one, If somebody hooks up with Vang Come back and let us know whats up...
I’ve used water based options before. Some of them work quite well they are just a slower process.
Vang must have just gotten dumped by Johnny 5. Maybe wall-e is available.
Can you do a video on candy paint? Like low rider style
I’ve done some videos about candy paint.
How much sanding should be done at the very early stage of applying grain filler?
Enough to flatten it out without sanding past the filler.
I found 400 for stain does not penetrate. It does depend on the wood itself obviously, but this is what I have found. Dyes certainly penetrates better.
Makes sense. On oily woods a light wipe with acetone can also help.
A belt sander is ok for your floor not a guitar lol finish sanding is almost always done by hand to get the best results. On flat guitar body's I've even used my big crimson leveling beam and that works great also. Nice on Brad.
I like using the larger side of leveling beams for that sometimes. Not the crimson one though because of that wicked texture paint job.
@@BradAngove mine is the old old beam that was just aluminium not the new fancy one lol
That’s works haha
What grit you recommend to be the last at each step?
exemple:
360 on bare/filled wood
800 on sealer/primer
1200 on clear.
It depends on what the finish is, but I usually go 220 on bare wood before stain or 320 for dye or paint. 400 on primer or sealer unless I’m spraying metallic, in which case it’s 800. 800 before clear. 3000 or 4000 on clear before polishing.
@@BradAngove you said 800 before clear. Should I sand the color coat? I'm using PU. was about to spray the clear without sanding the color.
I would generally suggest sanding the color coat to help with adhesion.
Quick question -
grain/pore fill first,
then applying stain dye by hand (my choice for a specific project vs spray) (like a sunburst)
then sealer, then finish?
Thanks for everything Brad.
Did you ever get the email I sent of the 'flame tele" I did based on your inspiration?
Ya, that’s the general process that I follow.
I don’t know if I got the email. I get hundreds of them every week, so I basically can’t read them.
@@BradAngove you are very good at responding to YT messages, sent the email with the flame tele pics again, hope you get them
Just got my Les Paul build. Should I sand before I stain at all? I have plans of using a "paint marker" and also a stain.
Yes, you’ll want to sand the surface to make sure everything is smooth before you stain.
@@BradAngove It's a spalted maple veneer. 400 grit?
Yes, and as lightly as you can while still getting it smooth.
It would be nice to see how to do translucent finishes
Yes, I have done a few of those on here.
@@BradAngove 😱, i will check them out
I think “220g to finish” is from the cabinet builder side of the woodshop. Most of the auto body guys like to use higher grits.
Indeed
The only time I use a belt sander on a guitar is for carving the forearm/tummy cuts on a body.
Good choice
Hey Brad, Who did you punch? Knuckles look a bit tenderized.
Brad looks like he is in pretty good shape maybe he hits a heavy bag or boxes.
I either screwed them up a bit in the shop (I hardly notice anymore) or they are just kinda raw from a combo of dry weather and chemicals.
How to clean the dust, if you don't have a compressor?
Vacuum is probably your best option. Soft brush so works.
*also
Brad, are you taking part in the great guitar build off this year ?
Hi Steve. I can’t say for sure. I’ll likely do some videos about it, but I doubt I’ll enter as an individual. I’d get my butt kicked too badly by all my viewers haha.
If they happen to reach out to me about the invitational contest I’ll probably participate. I think the whole idea is wonderful and I love the way they have it set up this year and the cause they’ve chosen to prioritize.
@@BradAngove would be great to see you on there again.
Thanks Steve. Ben seemed to put out a request for people to let him know who they wanted. I’ll have to go back to the video at some point and see if my name ended up in the comments haha.
So i am painting my guitar. I have sanded it with p 400 = 600 grit. When i sanded through the finish i saw that i had about double the layer than i sanded with some epoxy or something. Sry im a noob in this area so. Well i am not going to sand that epoxy layer. I spent 7 hour just to sand the finish off. It is a pretty cheap guitar 200$.
Question: Do i need to have primer put on or can i skip it. Cuase it is acting like a primer i guess, the epoxy. I dont want a unnessecary tick coat/layer.
Maybe you said it in the video. I wrote this the whole time:)
You don’t need a primer on that. You should be able to go ahead and paint right over it.
Did you use grain filler before the sanding? The body I'm working on is mahogany
On mahogany I would sand lightly, then grain fill and sand again.