One very important point regarding the V12 engine that has caused big problems to some owners regarding overheating, is that one of the thermostats sticks closed. If a change of coolant hoses is planned, along with a flush of the system with the possibility of debris being loosened and being transported from one location to another inside the engine block or manifolds, remove the thermostats, whilst doing this, or better still replace them with genuine OEM new parts. Peace of mind is everything when embarking on a long journey with a Jaguar, and knowing that the cooling system is clean throughout, and secure with new hoses and clips, contributes to the pleasure of driving these lovely cars.
Very good issue! When I bought my XJS straight six, the FIRST thing I did was to replace the coolant, thermostat, ALL hoses, and I made a complete cleaning of the radiator. The hoses were in very good shape, but they were 25 years old and I prefered to be prudent. It was time consuming, but when I think of what happens to these engines when they overheat, I consider that the time and money was a great investment.
GREAT VIDEO ! + the second. SOME MORE RECOMMENDATIONS. I had some heat problems with my DD6. Inspired by the video I started to fight it. Follow the steps of the video !. But: If your car has been treated with a coolant sealer a simple water hose is too weak. Use the HAZET Water/Preassure tool to powerfloat the system reverse. As there is quite a pressure you have to block certain galleries. Thermostates out (oportunity to check them in wifes pot with boiling water) , housing back again and backflushing through the main cirquit. Block the heater hose. The short circuit needs to be blocked. That means the filler gallery has to be removed from the thermostate housings. You can leave it hanging in place. No work at the belts necessary whatsoever When powerflushing the cooler you have to block the hoses to the reservoir. The cooler has 2 circuits mixing each other somewhere in the cooler. You need to powerflush BOTH circuits. Block the second circuit while flushing the other. For all blockings you can use the old hoses cramping them. Check the BREATHERPIPES properly. My left bank pipe was totally corroded. My heat problem was probably caused by this. If necessary just cut it off and put some secured rubberhoses in place. This part is not available new. You need to flush from the hole of the banjo bolt. When I pressed it out I found at least 1 litre of old coolant hiding there. Once the cooler top cover out of the way you can easily replace the viscous and install the fabiolous el. fan from Jag-Improvers. 16 hrs workingtime. Hope this helps
Did mine at the start of the lock down including a new ally radiator too. Found that the pipe (10mm?) that runs on the top of the slam panel was blocked and the banjo bolts to it. Glad I found out before too late. Great informative job as usual Adam.
It's a good lock down activity since it takes a bit of time. Good job on finding that! In part 2 I check over the pipe on this car and clean it out a little. Thanks for watching!
Living With A Classic You don’t need to thank me, it’s a must watching your clips. Thank you for taking the time to do them, it is very much appreciated by me.
I replaces my rad with a dual-pass Alum radiator, all the hoses and the water pump/ therms and belts. Jaguar has the best tensioner design. Don’t F around with old cars. Spend some $$, saves time and embarrassment.
Another fantastic video my friend, I have just replaced all coolant hoses on my S3 4.2, the original hoses from 1984 were a real mess, very swollen. Working outside in street as usual, quite an awkward job with engine in situ. I test drove for the first time tonight, thankfully no leaks. I now need to change automatically transmission hoses as matter of urgency, they too are in perilous swollen state.
I know what it’s like to just work outside. I’ve done it for years and I’m not jealous. Your car will be back on the road soon in better shap than it’s been in years
Hi Adam, very nice channel ! Since you have a lot of experience, I would appreciate your view: I have recently bought a 1993 facelift 5.3 XJS with only 62'000 kms and kept very well in originary status. I would like to have it as safe as possible to be used but have no ability to work on it myself like you. Option 1. for me is to keep it well, maintain regularly and fastidiously with the help of an expert mechanic on old Jags, but apart from some obvious thinks (e.g. fuel hoses or belts to be replaced), I would tend this way to keep the car as it is and to change things, in the end, when they get broke; or option 2. is (very expensive indeed) to go through a kind of "massive preventive" refresh / renovation of the car e.g. by sending it to KWE in England to have it back "like new". I am tempted by option 2. since I am not experienced like you but I also fear to make an unnecessary (and excessive) expense for a car that actually seems to be very OK and well maintained. In other words, do you go "preventive" a lot, or just step by step ? And what would be your suggestion ? I am really doubtful about the best option... For example, do you change preventively the marelli ignition cap? The fuel pump? The starting engine? The fuel tank hoses? The cooling system (or e.g. you simply flush it sometimes)? What is the approach, that with your experience, you would suggest on one side not to spend unnecessary money and on the other to feel confident to take a 2'000 trip without too much fear? Thank you very much, very appreciated.
Hi Sarastro, It's a bit of a difficult question to be honest. If the car has been standing still for a few years I'd go through pretty much almost everything if you want to be able to trust it 100%. If it has been used pretty regularly I would change all the rubber hoses (fuel, coolant, breaks, etc.) and give it a major service. Where are you located?
Sarastro, Don’t wait for things to fail on a 2000 mile trip. Here’s a idea: this is where the lightbulb lights up. Change the usual suspects, hoses, antifreeze, all fluids, cap and rotor, wires and plugs. You can buy a starter, Fuel pump and other spares. Leave in the trunk. That way if your in Istanbul, a mechanic won’t have to source spares. I saw many Triumphs and Mg’s With parts in the boot. If $$ are an issue, every 2nd payday buy something. Believe me, most classic car guys have spares in the boot.
Did my XJS v12 coolant this weekend after many months of avoiding due to the perceived problems of hose removal. I guess the previous owner may have done it in the past because they came right off! Thanks for the tips!
You’re lucky! Some of these took forever to get off! A few of the hose clamps had been fitted before the engine was in the car and they were a real pain
Top man Adam, ive been waiting for this................................................in the fullness off time, how about one on the vac lines for a late V12 ;)
Adam, I think it has been mentioned but don't forget to blow out that bypass line that runs across the top of the rad. Mine was solid as was the banjo bolt, a new brass banjo is available from Jonas though. I eventually bought a new aluminium radiator though and that made a tremendous difference. As I mentioned to you some time ago, my top hose burst at speed not long after I got the car; it wasn't a pleasant experience but, so far at least there doesn't appear to have caused any problems - touch wood!
@@LivingWithAClassic I got mine from Alicool www.alicool.co.uk/rad-jaguar.html not cheap by any stretch but well made and a lot lighter than the standard ones. They would also do a fuel tank as well - if they could have a pattern from someone.
Yebb. second that. Have came across a couple off issues with that bypass line and also some recommend sising out the holes in the sides of the banjo bolt as they sometimes dont line up with the pipe wery well. Also raising the front end a little bit makes filling and air bleeding the system easyer.
I've recently changed all the hoses in my XJ6, the radiator got a complete new web from a specialist and the system has been flushed twice. If I drive now an hour at 30+ outside temperature, the gauge is not even hitting the "N" in "Normal" and I have 84 degrees celsius at the thermostat an 52 degrees at the radiator outlet. So this car is save in summer 😃
@@LivingWithAClassic Great to hear, that your XJ6 is running fine, too! I'm so confident in my new cooling system - I plan a road trip over the alps to northern Italy. Imagine a fine XJ 6 Coupé in front of the opera in Verona or in the city of Florence, especially with an open folding top! But first, I have to convince my wife 😅
Great video! I have watched several (multiple times....) as I work on an 89 XJS V12 that happened into my life. Question: how do you replace the heater hose that runs behind the block from the drivers side to the passenger side? I am replacing all of the hoses and can't get to that one. (I've rebuilt the fuel rail and installed a new water pump using your videos).
Could there be a playlist created with all of the V12 repairs? I have a ‘85 HE V12 with 20k miles that sat in a garage for 8 years since it’s last use and this is the only source of information on how to repair, I can find.
Hi Adam, thanks for the great videos, love your channel. I have been following your recommendations by flushing the cooling system and replacing hoses on my 1986 XJSC V12. I have come across a problem - when trying to flush the engine block I cannot get any flow through the coolant bypass pipe ports on the front of the engine. Any advice would be very much appreciated. Thank you. Vadim.
Adam, is there any trick to removing the lower radiator hose and the hose from the heater tap? These are really hard to get to and space is very limited. Thanks for your helpful videos.
Good work! I’ll add this to the list of jobs to do on mine. It’s a long list. By the way, completely unrelated to this, but do you happen to know how to route the speedometer cable on a series 2 xj12? I’ve connected it to the speedometer, but I’ve no idea how to connect it to the gearbox. Is is through this firewall? Or somewhere else?
I personally wouldn’t since it would be heard to prove that it’s all out of the system. If it was very dirty I’d fill it up with plan water and run that for a week maybe and then flush it out again
Metal, rubber (wipe off after. I would not spray open electrical connections. We used to spray the whole engine/ swing arm on our Motocross bikes.easier to clean after a mudd race.
@@LivingWithAClassic Oh, I did... i used JB water weld to fix the vapor pipe that runs on top and very nice copper paint when done looks and works super ... note when using JB water weld on that thin pipe... make sure you cut a dowel to place in that pipe so you don't fill it in with the JB water weld... then just pull it out when it hardens...
@@LivingWithAClassic Great, locally or are you getting one imported ? Does your father still "muck in " (help you) ? Well, best of luck ! That XJS looks to be a very nice car by the way.
It’s pretty local, a few hours away but I’m having it shipped on a pallet. Should arrive next week sometime. He does when he’s here. My parents live in another country but whenever they visit we usually go out into the workshop a bit. Thanks! It’s a really nice example. Low mileage and in really good condition
Hi Adam, Interesting project. I am replacing the hoses on my 40 and have decided as the coolant will be drained to replace the themostat as well. These are pretty cheap. So I was wondering will you be replacing the themostat on your V12?
If I didn’t know how old the thermostats are or if they were 5 or more years I’d replace them. The ones in the XJS are only a few years old so I’m leaving them this time
Interesting Adam. I wonder how long this whole process would have taken from start to finish? Also wonder if a laser pointer would be useful when trying to point out parts of the engine?
Great idea with the laser pointer! I’ll try and count the total time in part 2. It’s always a little difficult to calculate since I new to remove the extra time it takes to film
The Jaguar V12 is a complicated engine! I seen one in a hot rod ( Jag V12 ) with aftermarket inlet manifold and a four barrel carby, much much much less complicated!!
The cooling system is kind of sketchy in these cars. Often people modify the radiator or swap a custom one in to eliminate the 1-1/2 pass design. Also if they were serviced by the dealer regularly, it was standard practice for them to add Barrs Leaks stopper even if not needed. If you haven't read it yet, Kirby Palms book is a great resource for solutions to some of the lousy British Leyland "features" on the XJ/XJS.
His book is good but from personal experience I’ve found that if they are in good stock condition they work as intended. A lot of the improvements in his back I find unnecessary. Yes the Barr’s Leak is a very dumb idea. It’s mentioned in the next part that’s up in a few days. Thanks for watching 🙂
I printed his 900 page book years ago. Has great trouble-shooting ideas. IMO all British Leyland switches are cheap crap. Newer Range Rovers had them cheap POS switches. They need to come to 2021 with all electricals. Fire Lucas! My opinion, i’m Not alone.
Hey! Do you happen to have any info on cooling solutions? Mine is in with the mechanic after sitting for years and needed a new rad - but I'm trying to figure out how to never have to worry about an overheating engine
your channel is saving my life as a new xjs owner.
I'm glad I can help!
One very important point regarding the V12 engine that has caused big problems to some owners regarding overheating, is that one of the thermostats sticks closed. If a change of coolant hoses is planned, along with a flush of the system with the possibility of debris being loosened and being transported from one location to another inside the engine block or manifolds, remove the thermostats, whilst doing this, or better still replace them with genuine OEM new parts. Peace of mind is everything when embarking on a long journey with a Jaguar, and knowing that the cooling system is clean throughout, and secure with new hoses and clips, contributes to the pleasure of driving these lovely cars.
Very good issue!
When I bought my XJS straight six, the FIRST thing I did was to replace the coolant, thermostat, ALL hoses, and I made a complete cleaning of the radiator. The hoses were in very good shape, but they were 25 years old and I prefered to be prudent. It was time consuming, but when I think of what happens to these engines when they overheat, I consider that the time and money was a great investment.
It’s a great investment! I’m about to do it on my new to me XJ40 they seem to be 25-30 years old too
GREAT VIDEO ! + the second. SOME MORE RECOMMENDATIONS. I had some heat problems with my DD6. Inspired by the video I started to fight it. Follow the steps of the video !. But: If your car has been treated with a coolant sealer a simple water hose is too weak. Use the HAZET Water/Preassure tool to powerfloat the system reverse. As there is quite a pressure you have to block certain galleries. Thermostates out (oportunity to check them in wifes pot with boiling water) , housing back again and backflushing through the main cirquit. Block the heater hose. The short circuit needs to be blocked. That means the filler gallery has to be removed from the thermostate housings. You can leave it hanging in place. No work at the belts necessary whatsoever
When powerflushing the cooler you have to block the hoses to the reservoir. The cooler has 2 circuits mixing each other somewhere in the cooler. You need to powerflush BOTH circuits. Block the second circuit while flushing the other.
For all blockings you can use the old hoses cramping them. Check the BREATHERPIPES properly. My left bank pipe was totally corroded. My heat problem was probably caused by this. If necessary just cut it off and put some secured rubberhoses in place. This part is not available new.
You need to flush from the hole of the banjo bolt. When I pressed it out I found at least 1 litre of old coolant hiding there.
Once the cooler top cover out of the way you can easily replace the viscous and install the fabiolous el. fan from Jag-Improvers. 16 hrs workingtime. Hope this helps
Did mine at the start of the lock down including a new ally radiator too. Found that the pipe (10mm?) that runs on the top of the slam panel was blocked and the banjo bolts to it. Glad I found out before too late. Great informative job as usual Adam.
It's a good lock down activity since it takes a bit of time. Good job on finding that! In part 2 I check over the pipe on this car and clean it out a little. Thanks for watching!
Living With A Classic You don’t need to thank me, it’s a must watching your clips. Thank you for taking the time to do them, it is very much appreciated by me.
I replaces my rad with a dual-pass Alum radiator, all the hoses and the water pump/ therms and belts. Jaguar has the best tensioner design. Don’t F around with old cars. Spend some $$, saves time and embarrassment.
Nice one 👍 It was the first job I did on my XJ6 Series 3 when I got it.
It really is the first big job to do. Need to do it on the Daimler XJ40 too
Another fantastic video my friend, I have just replaced all coolant hoses on my S3 4.2, the original hoses from 1984 were a real mess, very swollen. Working outside in street as usual, quite an awkward job with engine in situ. I test drove for the first time tonight, thankfully no leaks.
I now need to change automatically transmission hoses as matter of urgency, they too are in perilous swollen state.
I know what it’s like to just work outside. I’ve done it for years and I’m not jealous. Your car will be back on the road soon in better shap than it’s been in years
I’m 59 now, remember in my youth, changing a starter on the snow/ gravel driveway. Now I work in a tight 2.5 car garage with machinist tools.
Hi Adam, very nice channel ! Since you have a lot of experience, I would appreciate your view: I have recently bought a 1993 facelift 5.3 XJS with only 62'000 kms and kept very well in originary status. I would like to have it as safe as possible to be used but have no ability to work on it myself like you. Option 1. for me is to keep it well, maintain regularly and fastidiously with the help of an expert mechanic on old Jags, but apart from some obvious thinks (e.g. fuel hoses or belts to be replaced), I would tend this way to keep the car as it is and to change things, in the end, when they get broke; or option 2. is (very expensive indeed) to go through a kind of "massive preventive" refresh / renovation of the car e.g. by sending it to KWE in England to have it back "like new". I am tempted by option 2. since I am not experienced like you but I also fear to make an unnecessary (and excessive) expense for a car that actually seems to be very OK and well maintained. In other words, do you go "preventive" a lot, or just step by step ? And what would be your suggestion ? I am really doubtful about the best option... For example, do you change preventively the marelli ignition cap? The fuel pump? The starting engine? The fuel tank hoses? The cooling system (or e.g. you simply flush it sometimes)? What is the approach, that with your experience, you would suggest on one side not to spend unnecessary money and on the other to feel confident to take a 2'000 trip without too much fear? Thank you very much, very appreciated.
Hi Sarastro,
It's a bit of a difficult question to be honest. If the car has been standing still for a few years I'd go through pretty much almost everything if you want to be able to trust it 100%. If it has been used pretty regularly I would change all the rubber hoses (fuel, coolant, breaks, etc.) and give it a major service.
Where are you located?
Sarastro, Don’t wait for things to fail on a 2000 mile trip. Here’s a idea: this is where the lightbulb lights up. Change the usual suspects, hoses, antifreeze, all fluids, cap and rotor, wires and plugs. You can buy a starter, Fuel pump and other spares. Leave in the trunk. That way if your in Istanbul, a mechanic won’t have to source spares. I saw many Triumphs and Mg’s With parts in the boot. If $$ are an issue, every 2nd payday buy something. Believe me, most classic car guys have spares in the boot.
Thank you Adam. This is my next project for my 94 XJS 6 liter. Though it has only gone 33,000 mi. and has been just a fair weather car
It’s good preventative maintenance. This is a low mileage car too but they still get bad
Did my XJS v12 coolant this weekend after many months of avoiding due to the perceived problems of hose removal. I guess the previous owner may have done it in the past because they came right off! Thanks for the tips!
You’re lucky! Some of these took forever to get off! A few of the hose clamps had been fitted before the engine was in the car and they were a real pain
Top man Adam, ive been waiting for this................................................in the fullness off time, how about one on the vac lines for a late V12 ;)
I’m glad you liked it! Sure I can do that, there’s a lot of them! Thanks for watching 🙂
Adam, I think it has been mentioned but don't forget to blow out that bypass line that runs across the top of the rad. Mine was solid as was the banjo bolt, a new brass banjo is available from Jonas though. I eventually bought a new aluminium radiator though and that made a tremendous difference. As I mentioned to you some time ago, my top hose burst at speed not long after I got the car; it wasn't a pleasant experience but, so far at least there doesn't appear to have caused any problems - touch wood!
In part 2 I’m cleaning out the lines along the top of the radiator. Where did you get your aluminum radiator from?
@@LivingWithAClassic I got mine from Alicool www.alicool.co.uk/rad-jaguar.html not cheap by any stretch but well made and a lot lighter than the standard ones. They would also do a fuel tank as well - if they could have a pattern from someone.
Yebb. second that. Have came across a couple off issues with that bypass line and also some recommend sising out the holes in the sides of the banjo bolt as they sometimes dont line up with the pipe wery well.
Also raising the front end a little bit makes filling and air bleeding the system easyer.
I've recently changed all the hoses in my XJ6, the radiator got a complete new web from a specialist and the system has been flushed twice. If I drive now an hour at 30+ outside temperature, the gauge is not even hitting the "N" in "Normal" and I have 84 degrees celsius at the thermostat an 52 degrees at the radiator outlet. So this car is save in summer 😃
That’s great to hear! I’ve been driving my XJ6 in 30 degree weather now for a few weeks and it’s been perfect too. Never gets hot
@@LivingWithAClassic Great to hear, that your XJ6 is running fine, too! I'm so confident in my new cooling system - I plan a road trip over the alps to northern Italy. Imagine a fine XJ 6 Coupé in front of the opera in Verona or in the city of Florence, especially with an open folding top! But first, I have to convince my wife 😅
Hi Adam, I see you upgrade you air filters and intake. Where can I buy those from?
Great video! I have watched several (multiple times....) as I work on an 89 XJS V12 that happened into my life. Question: how do you replace the heater hose that runs behind the block from the drivers side to the passenger side? I am replacing all of the hoses and can't get to that one. (I've rebuilt the fuel rail and installed a new water pump using your videos).
It’s a bit tight back there but there’s no real trick to replacing that hose.
Thanks for watching!
Hello I need some help I have a 1986 jaguar xjs and I can't get the car to run off a fuel cell but it will run on a gas can
Could there be a playlist created with all of the V12 repairs?
I have a ‘85 HE V12 with 20k miles that sat in a garage for 8 years since it’s last use and this is the only source of information on how to repair, I can find.
Hi Adam, thanks for the great videos, love your channel. I have been following your recommendations by flushing the cooling system and replacing hoses on my 1986 XJSC V12. I have come across a problem - when trying to flush the engine block I cannot get any flow through the coolant bypass pipe ports on the front of the engine. Any advice would be very much appreciated. Thank you. Vadim.
where did you get those aftermarket air filters?
Adam, is there any trick to removing the lower radiator hose and the hose from the heater tap? These are really hard to get to and space is very limited.
Thanks for your helpful videos.
I see the KN air intake like mine!
what did you do to the air intake/
Good video, Adam!
Thanks Gregory!
Good work! I’ll add this to the list of jobs to do on mine. It’s a long list.
By the way, completely unrelated to this, but do you happen to know how to route the speedometer cable on a series 2 xj12? I’ve connected it to the speedometer, but I’ve no idea how to connect it to the gearbox. Is is through this firewall? Or somewhere else?
It goes down into the transmission tunnel. If you remove the center console it’s pretty easy to see where it goes. Hope that helps
Living With A Classic Thanks very much!!!!
Only coolant in the radiator yeah my p6 3500s Rover was like that
Question, should/could you add a drop or two of dawn dish washing liquid into the place you are putting your flush water in ?
I personally wouldn’t since it would be heard to prove that it’s all out of the system. If it was very dirty I’d fill it up with plan water and run that for a week maybe and then flush it out again
@@LivingWithAClassic mine was very clean, due to the 1 gallon to get to work, then 1 gallon to get home... 😅
Can you spray wd40 onto your electrical conections & onto any bare metal contact areas to prevent rust & corrosion
Metal, rubber (wipe off after. I would not spray open electrical connections. We used to spray the whole engine/ swing arm on our Motocross bikes.easier to clean after a mudd race.
3 pin holes in one of the top runs accros the top of the radiator... ...
Replaced it w a al. Radiator... kept the org to repair later...
It’s a good idea to check those metal lines that run up there
@@LivingWithAClassic
Oh, I did... i used JB water weld to fix the vapor pipe that runs on top and very nice copper paint when done looks and works super ... note when using JB water weld on that thin pipe... make sure you cut a dowel to place in that pipe so you don't fill it in with the JB water weld... then just pull it out when it hardens...
Hi Adam . Is a change as good as a rest ? ( The "S" type ) A tedious but vital operation .
Yes It probably is John. I have however ordered a good used engine for the S-type
@@LivingWithAClassic Great, locally or are you getting one imported ? Does your father still "muck in " (help you) ? Well, best of luck ! That XJS looks to be a very nice car by the way.
It’s pretty local, a few hours away but I’m having it shipped on a pallet. Should arrive next week sometime.
He does when he’s here. My parents live in another country but whenever they visit we usually go out into the workshop a bit. Thanks! It’s a really nice example. Low mileage and in really good condition
Hi Adam, Interesting project. I am replacing the hoses on my 40 and have decided as the coolant will be drained to replace the themostat as well. These are pretty cheap. So I was wondering will you be replacing the themostat on your V12?
If I didn’t know how old the thermostats are or if they were 5 or more years I’d replace them. The ones in the XJS are only a few years old so I’m leaving them this time
Interesting Adam. I wonder how long this whole process would have taken from start to finish? Also wonder if a laser pointer would be useful when trying to point out parts of the engine?
Great idea with the laser pointer! I’ll try and count the total time in part 2. It’s always a little difficult to calculate since I new to remove the extra time it takes to film
The Jaguar V12 is a complicated engine! I seen one in a hot rod ( Jag V12 ) with aftermarket inlet manifold and a four barrel carby, much much much less complicated!!
Just done all the water hoses on my xj6 a very frustrating job to say the least
It sure is frustrating! There’s a reason why these hoses have been on my shelf for 6 months
Same here for the BMW valve cover gasket, Vanos seals.lol
The cooling system is kind of sketchy in these cars. Often people modify the radiator or swap a custom one in to eliminate the 1-1/2 pass design. Also if they were serviced by the dealer regularly, it was standard practice for them to add Barrs Leaks stopper even if not needed. If you haven't read it yet, Kirby Palms book is a great resource for solutions to some of the lousy British Leyland "features" on the XJ/XJS.
His book is good but from personal experience I’ve found that if they are in good stock condition they work as intended. A lot of the improvements in his back I find unnecessary. Yes the Barr’s Leak is a very dumb idea. It’s mentioned in the next part that’s up in a few days. Thanks for watching 🙂
I printed his 900 page book years ago. Has great trouble-shooting ideas. IMO all British Leyland switches are cheap crap. Newer Range Rovers had them cheap POS switches. They need to come to 2021 with all electricals. Fire Lucas! My opinion, i’m Not alone.
Hey! Do you happen to have any info on cooling solutions? Mine is in with the mechanic after sitting for years and needed a new rad - but I'm trying to figure out how to never have to worry about an overheating engine
v12 is very problematic engine :
Bollocks, more likely you either brought a dog, made poor choices in mechanics, or have a lack of skills. ''A bad workman always blames his tools''
They are very reliable engines. Out of all my Jaguars the V12s are pretty much the most reliable
MarksBikeExports You sound as passionate as me when it comes to jag V12. 😆
@@paulfitzgerald7513 yep to much :]
@@paulfitzgerald7513 l do, but not in the manner you are insinuating. l just have no time for bullshit statements from the ill informed.