@TheHoody999 Well, the best I can find Copper Electrolite online is about $120/gallon, and I think that tote he used is about 12 gallons.... so ouch. In addition, the powersupply is probably about $90, the helmet is about $5 in materials, the paints are around $25 (definitely more in the long run), the palladium is about $30, an airbrush is about $40, the clamps/brushes are about $40, and the rotary setup probably cost about $25 for wire servos and switches, and the copper sheets about $20. I'm thinking for the base setup, with a gallon of copper sulfate, it's about $300 to get everything you need (not including the 3D printer). But for this video, we are probably looking at about $1,500 investment, unless he has a better chemical supplier, which I certainly hope so. Source: I'm thinking about investing in a small electroplating setup.
He would easily get $1200 for a helmet like that. Had he wanted he could have kicked out 20 in the same time with a little assembly process. Considering he made a one of kind theres far more value.
@@butterfinger4393 Did some testing over stainless steel with automotive ceramic coating. It works wonders. Nevermind the lacquer, it would most likely peel off.
I would love to see a video covering the different metals options, example finishes they offer and other characteristics like durability to help choose materials for projects. You have the best results I've seen from those attempting this.
Most epoxy resins are way safer than polyester resins, and they work just as well. Whenever I fibermat or reinforce a print, I use a 2 part epoxy (normally SmoothOn 300) and have great results. Great outcome! They helmet looks great!
@@hen3drik Try you local shipmaker/shipwright/guy who works on smaller wood and composite boats. They usually buy it in 200liter drums as non UV protected variant, so its dirt cheap comparing to say Total Boat products. I got mine from local guy for 30€/liter of ready product, where total boat seems to be 90€/liter plus taxes and imports over here. Since you will be putting paint on top anyways its irrelevant how well it handles UV. Been doing this on my own crafts and it seems just layer or urethane lacquer is giving good protection. Hell just CA glue layer does the work based on objects that have been in sunlight in north for a year so far. Next to no off gassing compared to polyester resin so way pleasant to work with.
why not just use a iron solder and melt the plastic or just drop melted plastic to solder both parts? i always do that cuz is easy, fast and provides a strong bond
One thing I have done in the past to reduce the volume inside the bigger tank is to use empty glass jars which takes up space in the tank so you don't need as much solution. I used pickle jars, and the tank was low enough that the mouths of the jars were above the surface of the liquid.
Wow this is a really great result. I tried electroplating my sculptures and never got close to the quality shown here. The palladium pen coating is a great alternative to Nickel. Well done. Very well explained/documented and really impressive outcome.
Much more expensive... but I suppose much less bio-reactive? Nickel plating bath is easy to make and not very toxic... I used it on my water-cooled rig because a liquid-metal heatsink compound will just eat copper over time...
Try those fingernail file boards for sanding, the foam blocks can be useful as well. They're cheap and gentle enough that it's not so easy to make a big mistake.
That was pretty good! I'm struggling right now with the conductive paint getting stuck on the airbrush. Looks like mine thinner isn't reacting with the paint. I will try this one that you are using.
As cool as electroplating is, its really overkill for this. Movie prop wise mirror finishes are done with chemical silver plating. Which is a two part spray on version of tollens reagent, which is then followed with a clear coat to prevent oxidation. For example Phasma's suit was done in exactly this method. While things such as Din Djarin suit were not plated at all, it was just resin cast and air gunned with Alumaluster (Bit pricy for a hobbyist though)
Hey! Awesome video, I'm in Austria, and would love to start this next level of 3D printing :) Could u possibly give me a budget of how much it would cost? I only have the 3D printer and need to figure out the budget for such an upgrade :) Thanks for the great video, I am subscribed ;)
If you brush a thin layer of resin on the workpiece before applying the fiberglass cloth, it's easier to avoid bubbles and fully saturate the cloth for the best adhesion. Excellent work.
Plating something so large is extremely challenging and you absolutely nailed it! Incredible surface finish! If only I knew you could buy galvanic pens a few years ago 😅
@@hen3drik yeah there is definitely a reason I don't pen plate or brush plate often at all (and I stick to cheap(ish) electrolytes that I can fill a 20L tub with).
With this type electro plating, does the printing become resistant to heat and to some degree water? I wonder if this allows protection for the interior that one can make a daily wearable object like a necklace for example? Truly wonderful work
Ich suche seit Jahren noch genau so einem Video. Die Videos die ich bis jetzt über das Thema gesehen habe hatten immer keine schönen Ergebnisse oder Ergebnisse wo man sagen würde, da sollte man sich eher einfach doch metallerne Sprühfarbe holen, aber das hier wirklich fantastische Arbeit, vielen Dank!
You would need less electrolyte solution if you used something inert to take up volume inside the tank. I don't know enough about electroplating to say what could be used but we do the same thing in our sinker edms, maybe filled water bottles? Anything that takes up volume will not need to be filled with the solution.
You are right, although a bit difficult to insert bottles in this setup. Following the Archimedes principle, the volume of the fluid displaced is equal to the volume of the object immersed. In my case, I want to plate sculptures that are closed, so although the surface area may be large, and comparable to Hendrik’s helmet, the volume of my sculptures would require considerably less electrolyte.
Buddy, you're a frigging mad genius. That was some hardcore makery but the finished piece: holy smokes! You can't cheat perfection. WOW. The final finish was jaw dropping. Thanks so much!
This is great, Amazing job! Although I wonder if it would be cheaper with a similar effect to use something like Born Chrome finish or AlClad with similar results. Either way, Amazing job
Dude, u are awesome! Love the personality! I'm not sure I'm ready to get into chemicals yet. I would have to kit the whole " I have poisons in my hobby space" thing. But man, I want to get into this! I NEED a Mandalorian suit for emergencies!! Also, this can have huge implications for my 3D prints and their marketability. Do you have thoughts on First Surface Mirroring?
Your content is amazing, I've been going through every video! Quick question: At @7:50 in the areas where the copper plating did not stick(above the eye), did you just use the galvanic pen with copper electrolyte to cover those areas? How did you remedy? I noticed the helmet is fully covered by the time you polish and plate it with nickel/palladium.
what acidified copper sulfate solution were you using? you could probably just buy it as a powder, add acid to the solution until you get the desired pH. if I can get ahold of an SDS sheet or something, could ghetto up a recipe for you, see if we can't get the production costs down for you. edit: should also say it's looking very very nice, all the prep work you do definitely makes a difference! just whenever anyone is doing electroplating stuff, my brain switches straight into electrochemistry research lab mode
Looks fantastic. I'm making my own helmet of samus from metroid prime. It won't look as nice and shiny as this but I've found for comfort creating a crown like tpu headband like inside builders helmets helps to stop it spinning about and place my eyes in the right place.
Just a heads up that there's something called "spray putty" that's even thicker than high build auto primer. It requires a normal primer afterwards, but I've found it to be quite excellent. I only needed 2 coats when printing at 0.1layer heights to get a nice smooth finish. When printing a helmet with 0.3 layer height, I found smearing flexible auto body filler thinly across the layer lines was better, as the auto filler primer just didn't have the mass to fill even after many, many coats and tens of hours of hand sanding. Amazing helmet, looks fabulous.
@@skywardsoul1178 i just looked it up. It says spritzspachtel and that’s exactly what my stuff say as well. I have to say that it also builds up a big layer.
Hey I know how to calculate the surface area, but the parts are anything but flat. Did you just calculate it roughly, or is there a function in Cura or something like that? Or did you use an unwinding function in a 3D program? Hope you understand what I mean, I used DeppL as a translation aid.
Electro forming is fun, if you are based in the uk i found these guys who do kits, Gateros Plating , they are a father and son, i've purchased a few things from them, always very helpful and knowledgeable.. great project and great video
This is incredible, I've been trying and failing at this for a few months. I'm curious what electrolyte brand you're using and how you avoided makes from the wires, aka "rack marks"
I mostly use tifoos stuff. Ahh, the rack marks, I have these, a lot! I try to avoid these by constantly moving the wires. Then I usually sand away these marks. I got rid of the vertical lines when a lot of copper is deposited by constantly moving the parts. I will set up an air bubble system to get even more motion in the bath.
@@hen3drik thanks, I'm using a bubbler and have also tried a magnetic stirrer. Really not sure at this point what I'm missing. I'm getting a lot of artifacts on the prints, even though they are sanded super smooth, and th deposition is not consistent, especially near the wires (though I'm using one big copper wire and not lots of small ones so maybe thats a big part of the problem. been using MG chemicals nickle conductive paint. Back to the drawing board I suppose.
soooo, how much do i have to pay you for chroming a helmet for me :) you do great work, serious question tho. Ive tried contacting companies that do it industrially but never got a reply back ...
The sanding process is time consuming and laborious but I find it rewarding and kind of zen while doing it. I recently did a project involving sanding with 220/400/600 grits 1200/1500 wet sanding, then polishing with a sequence of different grades of diamond pastes. In between I had to apply layers of a materials akin to the car finish spray to been out tiny imperfections (a slurry of a porcelain like plastic mixed with a phosphorescent compound) Overkill? Yes but the final result was unique. .
This was amazing to witness!!! the end result couldn't be any better. Now for people that doesn't have all the space, skills, and tools needed to do this, please consider making a tutorial showing how to achieve a metallic look the easiest and cheapest way...i don't know, just something better than the PLA plastiquy look! Anyhow, thanks for this video!
Looking for help getting started with a 3D Printer set up. I have a 2015 🖥️ OS. Where do I start. Judging by your products you have spent some time testing and know a quality set up.
You can save a ton of time by using bondo, applied with a flexible plastic/rubber scraper in small sections since it hardens fast. If you put it on too thick, use a very sharp tool like a good chisel to shave the bondo once it hardens enough where it's not sticky. You gotta movce quick to remove excess before it fully hardens, otherwise you'll be doing a lot of sanding.
I would have used a smooth cast to reinforce the seams. Instead of fiberglass and resin. It's also less toxic. Doesn't have much of a smell either. Oh yeah don't poor chems down any drain. The city waterworks can trace it exactly to which drain it came from. Someone at my job didn't think pouring 15% concentrate Hydrochloride acid was a big deal. Until the business was fined $2 mill and the city had to replace 3+ miles of piping. Just in case anyone wanted to know why you can't pour chems down drains.
Could anyone enlighten me: how does one select a power supply? Some have 2 dials, some 4, and the 30A units I found supplied between 25-30, which might be too much?
hello Hen3drik i am writing from turkey. First of all, thank you for your quality and beautiful sharing. I am also a 3d printer. I want to cover my models like you. tifoo brand products are not shipped to Turkey. What are the materials and proportions you use in the solution you use for the coating? Thank you from now. I'm looking forward to your new videos.
I want to bath nickel plate my helmet instead of brush plating it with palladium. The issue is I don't know how to calculate the voltage and amperage for nickel plating. Can you provide some insight? Is it the same as the 1a/dm^2?
I used to work for a chrome plating place that would have costed about $74-100 to copper, nickel, then chrome plate all of it (they always used nickle because it reinforces the chrome and makes it shine brighter. That was a very unnecessary, expensive process. I does show a lot of dedication but after spraying with the conducting layer anyone would have done it and saved you lots of money and what did you do with all those chemicals when you were done? They can't be disposed of they have to be sent away.
The result of the technique looks great, however for any aspiring prop builder, Mandalorian helmets like this should never be left standing upright on their cheeks like this for longer, especially not if they are not reinforced at the lower chin area and do not have a very solid visor holding the cheeks together. You can actually see during the course of the videos how the cheeks bent outwards and warped a little simply due to the weight of the helmet resting on them. I had this happen even with a full resin-fiberglass cast that was much thicker and sturdier than this 3d-print. Either put them upside down on the dome or get a helmet stand that has the contact point on the inside of the dome, never the sides. That's how I store and display my finished helmet as well. Seeing Mando helmets with the cheeks warped and bent outwards due to improper storage is a bit of a pet peeve of mine.
Have you found a way to fix that Daft Punk helmet. I have a similar issue with a helmet that I’m electroplating and I’m asking around for a good route to take.
![Tee Grizzley - Blow for Blow (feat. J. Cole) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wNLN5xsx5dc/mqdefault.jpg)
This was such a wild video! You absolutely killed it!
Indeed. A wild ride.
Agreed Uncle Jessy. Would love to know the cost !
@@TheHoody999 i too
@TheHoody999 Well, the best I can find Copper Electrolite online is about $120/gallon, and I think that tote he used is about 12 gallons.... so ouch.
In addition, the powersupply is probably about $90, the helmet is about $5 in materials, the paints are around $25 (definitely more in the long run), the palladium is about $30, an airbrush is about $40, the clamps/brushes are about $40, and the rotary setup probably cost about $25 for wire servos and switches, and the copper sheets about $20.
I'm thinking for the base setup, with a gallon of copper sulfate, it's about $300 to get everything you need (not including the 3D printer). But for this video, we are probably looking at about $1,500 investment, unless he has a better chemical supplier, which I certainly hope so.
Source: I'm thinking about investing in a small electroplating setup.
Looks like a crazy amount of work. The end result looks equally amazing. Nice work, you clearly have a ton of skill, and patience as well!
He would easily get $1200 for a helmet like that. Had he wanted he could have kicked out 20 in the same time with a little assembly process. Considering he made a one of kind theres far more value.
I would protect the finish with either some lacquer, or even better, ceramic coat the 💩 out of such a nicely done metal finish.
I'm not even sure how lacquer would adhere to the smooth surface
@@butterfinger4393 Did some testing over stainless steel with automotive ceramic coating. It works wonders. Nevermind the lacquer, it would most likely peel off.
Actually, depending on what you're doing, I'd suggest waxes. There is a ton of color control that goes into in producing a patina on sculptures.
I would love to see a video covering the different metals options, example finishes they offer and other characteristics like durability to help choose materials for projects. You have the best results I've seen from those attempting this.
Good idea
I never thought that you could electroplating a 3d printed object,thanks for the ideas bro... It's a long process but worth trying 😄
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏🧢💫🧢💫🧢💫🧢🏆🧢🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆🎓🎓🎓🎓🎓🙏👍🙏👍🙏👍🙏👍🙏💯💯💯💯💯💎🛸💡🛸💡🛸💡🛸💡🌐🌐🥏🎧🧢🎧🧢🎧🧢🎧👏💫👏💫👏🎓🏆🎓🏆🎓🏆💯👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍💯🏆📢🏆💯🏆
BRAVOOOO MAESTRO!!!!!!!👏🎓👏🎓👏🎓👏🎓👏🎧🧢💫👏🙏💎🙏🛸🛸💡🎓📢📢💯🌐🥏🏆💯🏆💯🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆
Most epoxy resins are way safer than polyester resins, and they work just as well. Whenever I fibermat or reinforce a print, I use a 2 part epoxy (normally SmoothOn 300) and have great results. Great outcome! They helmet looks great!
Thanks for the info! I‘ll try this next time.
@@hen3drik Try you local shipmaker/shipwright/guy who works on smaller wood and composite boats. They usually buy it in 200liter drums as non UV protected variant, so its dirt cheap comparing to say Total Boat products. I got mine from local guy for 30€/liter of ready product, where total boat seems to be 90€/liter plus taxes and imports over here. Since you will be putting paint on top anyways its irrelevant how well it handles UV. Been doing this on my own crafts and it seems just layer or urethane lacquer is giving good protection. Hell just CA glue layer does the work based on objects that have been in sunlight in north for a year so far. Next to no off gassing compared to polyester resin so way pleasant to work with.
why not just use a iron solder and melt the plastic or just drop melted plastic to solder both parts? i always do that cuz is easy, fast and provides a strong bond
This is so awesome. Loving this series of electroplating props!
A red chick and his carrier brought me here
One thing I have done in the past to reduce the volume inside the bigger tank is to use empty glass jars which takes up space in the tank so you don't need as much solution. I used pickle jars, and the tank was low enough that the mouths of the jars were above the surface of the liquid.
You could just fill them with concrete
@@glennedward2201 concrete is brittle, could ruin the liquid and it may not be usable again.
He means fill the jars with concrete.....
Wow this is a really great result. I tried electroplating my sculptures and never got close to the quality shown here. The palladium pen coating is a great alternative to Nickel. Well done. Very well explained/documented and really impressive outcome.
Thank you for your kind words!
Yes because the surface on sculpts can be difficult to rework with sandpaper. So it will be not so glossy
Much more expensive... but I suppose much less bio-reactive?
Nickel plating bath is easy to make and not very toxic... I used it on my water-cooled rig because a liquid-metal heatsink compound will just eat copper over time...
@@PCPointerDE I'd be tempted to try ABS with an acetone vapor polish. Sanding my car took wayy too long...
Wow ! Did we have to learn electroplating after just managing to learn resin printing ? 😢
can i just say though, the copper helmet was sexy!
Great job! It looks amazing!
You're one of my favorite channels to see a new upload from.
Great way to end the year!
Thank you, happy new year!
I came looking for instructions but I draw the line at electroplating.
Großen Respekt für die im gesamten Prozess steckende Arbeit - speziell das Schleifen und Polieren! 👍 Das Ergebnis spricht aber für sich! 🤘
Vielen Dank!
Not for mere mortals, but that is some amazing work 👌
Try those fingernail file boards for sanding, the foam blocks can be useful as well. They're cheap and gentle enough that it's not so easy to make a big mistake.
Amazing, can you do Monster Hunter Rise Shields tutorials?
It seems that COVID-19 wasn't so useless as you can use a face shield in a proper way.
That was pretty good! I'm struggling right now with the conductive paint getting stuck on the airbrush. Looks like mine thinner isn't reacting with the paint. I will try this one that you are using.
Erstmal bei tifoo die Bude leer gekauft
AWESOME!!! you make plastic look like baskar steel...i want to build my nephew one like it!
Glue it with acetone and it will stay stuck forever.
As cool as electroplating is, its really overkill for this. Movie prop wise mirror finishes are done with chemical silver plating. Which is a two part spray on version of tollens reagent, which is then followed with a clear coat to prevent oxidation. For example Phasma's suit was done in exactly this method. While things such as Din Djarin suit were not plated at all, it was just resin cast and air gunned with Alumaluster (Bit pricy for a hobbyist though)
probably how they made the actual one in the movie
Klingt wie nen Deutscher, mach doch deutsche Videos.
Brichst dir nicht so die Zunge bei.😁
Das hast Du aber mal nice gemacht 🤙ich kleb' Dir mal nen Abo an. Gruss René
solltest sowas auch auf deutsch machen ^^ , obwohl ich der meinung bin das die meisten nicht so eine werkstatt haben wie du :-)
Amazing work but for all that I rather spend the $131 the Black Series Hasbro helmet.
Legit!
wow, it is so amazing and very cool what you do.
Hey! Awesome video, I'm in Austria, and would love to start this next level of 3D printing :) Could u possibly give me a budget of how much it would cost? I only have the 3D printer and need to figure out the budget for such an upgrade :) Thanks for the great video, I am subscribed ;)
I’d love to know the base cost of this setup as well, and the cost of materials for this project. Amazing work - new subscriber here
If you brush a thin layer of resin on the workpiece before applying the fiberglass cloth, it's easier to avoid bubbles and fully saturate the cloth for the best adhesion.
Excellent work.
Not sure where you got this helmet file, but the finish is something I have never seen on a 3d print. Well done!
Plating something so large is extremely challenging and you absolutely nailed it! Incredible surface finish!
If only I knew you could buy galvanic pens a few years ago 😅
Still mean, you have to have four hands to work as fast as lightning. Electrolyte is acidic and copper oxidizes and so on and so.. thanks Brodie
@@hen3drik yeah there is definitely a reason I don't pen plate or brush plate often at all (and I stick to cheap(ish) electrolytes that I can fill a 20L tub with).
With this type electro plating, does the printing become resistant to heat and to some degree water? I wonder if this allows protection for the interior that one can make a daily wearable object like a necklace for example?
Truly wonderful work
Yes, it basically a metal coating with all its physical properties. A delicate coat of 200um to be precise.
Ich suche seit Jahren noch genau so einem Video. Die Videos die ich bis jetzt über das Thema gesehen habe hatten immer keine schönen Ergebnisse oder Ergebnisse wo man sagen würde, da sollte man sich eher einfach doch metallerne Sprühfarbe holen, aber das hier wirklich fantastische Arbeit, vielen Dank!
Sir, what type of filament did you use? PLA or ABS??
Generic PLA.
You would need less electrolyte solution if you used something inert to take up volume inside the tank. I don't know enough about electroplating to say what could be used but we do the same thing in our sinker edms, maybe filled water bottles? Anything that takes up volume will not need to be filled with the solution.
You are right, although a bit difficult to insert bottles in this setup. Following the Archimedes principle, the volume of the fluid displaced is equal to the volume of the object immersed. In my case, I want to plate sculptures that are closed, so although the surface area may be large, and comparable to Hendrik’s helmet, the volume of my sculptures would require considerably less electrolyte.
Looks better than the one in the show.
now make a Daft Punk Helmet!!
Buddy, you're a frigging mad genius. That was some hardcore makery but the finished piece: holy smokes! You can't cheat perfection. WOW. The final finish was jaw dropping. Thanks so much!
Way too much work for a nerdy helmet.
But I would do it for a Darth Vader helmet!
See, it just has to be the right prop! 😉
This is great, Amazing job! Although I wonder if it would be cheaper with a similar effect to use something like Born Chrome finish or AlClad with similar results. Either way, Amazing job
Dude, u are awesome! Love the personality! I'm not sure I'm ready to get into chemicals yet. I would have to kit the whole " I have poisons in my hobby space" thing. But man, I want to get into this! I NEED a Mandalorian suit for emergencies!! Also, this can have huge implications for my 3D prints and their marketability. Do you have thoughts on First Surface Mirroring?
Your content is amazing, I've been going through every video! Quick question: At @7:50 in the areas where the copper plating did not stick(above the eye), did you just use the galvanic pen with copper electrolyte to cover those areas? How did you remedy? I noticed the helmet is fully covered by the time you polish and plate it with nickel/palladium.
Oh it sticks there. It‘s just that electrolyte residues etched the copper hours later. You can just polish it away.
@@hen3drik ah gotcha, thank you! I am hoping to try this soon
Why not directly plate nickel on top of the conductive paint?
I would have needed 50l nickel electrolyte + copper is better (deposits fast, soft, bigger layers)
what acidified copper sulfate solution were you using? you could probably just buy it as a powder, add acid to the solution until you get the desired pH.
if I can get ahold of an SDS sheet or something, could ghetto up a recipe for you, see if we can't get the production costs down for you.
edit: should also say it's looking very very nice, all the prep work you do definitely makes a difference! just whenever anyone is doing electroplating stuff, my brain switches straight into electrochemistry research lab mode
Total time invested: 100 hours. You gotta really want this helmet.
Ahaaha this guys my hero 😮😂
Looks fantastic. I'm making my own helmet of samus from metroid prime. It won't look as nice and shiny as this but I've found for comfort creating a crown like tpu headband like inside builders helmets helps to stop it spinning about and place my eyes in the right place.
Good idea, I had worn the leftovers from the face shield on top of my head 😅
Just a heads up that there's something called "spray putty" that's even thicker than high build auto primer. It requires a normal primer afterwards, but I've found it to be quite excellent. I only needed 2 coats when printing at 0.1layer heights to get a nice smooth finish. When printing a helmet with 0.3 layer height, I found smearing flexible auto body filler thinly across the layer lines was better, as the auto filler primer just didn't have the mass to fill even after many, many coats and tens of hours of hand sanding.
Amazing helmet, looks fabulous.
Alright, i‘ll try that stuff next! Thanks!
@@hen3drik Forgot to mention, the brand I've used is called Motip. I think it's a European company, so should be available.
@@skywardsoul1178 i just looked it up. It says spritzspachtel and that’s exactly what my stuff say as well. I have to say that it also builds up a big layer.
Hey
I know how to calculate the surface area, but the parts are anything but flat.
Did you just calculate it roughly, or is there a function in Cura or something like that? Or did you use an unwinding function in a 3D program?
Hope you understand what I mean, I used DeppL as a translation aid.
Use blender. I showed some screens in the video. Hit pause to see how.
TOTALLY EPIC !! ❤😃👍
methyl ethyl Ketone to pre treat the plastic binding point will make that Polystyrene resin stick permanently to the 3d print.
Wow amazing work!!!
Electro forming is fun, if you are based in the uk i found these guys who do kits, Gateros Plating , they are a father and son, i've purchased a few things from them, always very helpful and knowledgeable.. great project and great video
Where do I get a galvanic brush?
It looks awesome. A really nice project.
How many hours did you spend sanding the helmet?
Btw. the copper already looks awesome!
The copper layer is actually the best :-). Took 6-8 hrs, I guess. Listened to podcast that time, so that was fine..
@@hen3drik Good idea. I suppose you made a break in between?
The result is mind blowing!
This is incredible, I've been trying and failing at this for a few months. I'm curious what electrolyte brand you're using and how you avoided makes from the wires, aka "rack marks"
I mostly use tifoos stuff. Ahh, the rack marks, I have these, a lot! I try to avoid these by constantly moving the wires. Then I usually sand away these marks. I got rid of the vertical lines when a lot of copper is deposited by constantly moving the parts. I will set up an air bubble system to get even more motion in the bath.
@@hen3drik thanks, I'm using a bubbler and have also tried a magnetic stirrer. Really not sure at this point what I'm missing. I'm getting a lot of artifacts on the prints, even though they are sanded super smooth, and th deposition is not consistent, especially near the wires (though I'm using one big copper wire and not lots of small ones so maybe thats a big part of the problem. been using MG chemicals nickle conductive paint. Back to the drawing board I suppose.
@@rochesterjudo4330 i get copper crystal at sharp edges and points. „Shield“ these with copper wire.
soooo, how much do i have to pay you for chroming a helmet for me :) you do great work, serious question tho. Ive tried contacting companies that do it industrially but never got a reply back ...
The sanding process is time consuming and laborious but I find it rewarding and kind of zen while doing it. I recently did a project involving sanding with 220/400/600 grits 1200/1500 wet sanding, then polishing with a sequence of different grades of diamond pastes. In between I had to apply layers of a materials akin to the car finish spray to been out tiny imperfections (a slurry of a porcelain like plastic mixed with a phosphorescent compound) Overkill? Yes but the final result was unique.
.
This was amazing to witness!!! the end result couldn't be any better. Now for people that doesn't have all the space, skills, and tools needed to do this, please consider making a tutorial showing how to achieve a metallic look the easiest and cheapest way...i don't know, just something better than the PLA plastiquy look! Anyhow, thanks for this video!
Beautiful work. This could have been a longer video!
this is amazing and 100% will try recreating I have 2 helms I will be trying this on
In Northern Germany we say Moin and i think its beautyful 😂👌 FIRE Video!
I know this voice. Docm77?
Could you elaborate on your rotary jig?
Also looking at the m2 area, how did you get 30 amps @ 2amp/dm?
Vielen Dank
What a brilliant result. I love this. Well done!
Looking for help getting started with a 3D Printer set up. I have a 2015 🖥️ OS. Where do I start.
Judging by your products you have spent some time testing and know a quality set up.
You can save a ton of time by using bondo, applied with a flexible plastic/rubber scraper in small sections since it hardens fast. If you put it on too thick, use a very sharp tool like a good chisel to shave the bondo once it hardens enough where it's not sticky. You gotta movce quick to remove excess before it fully hardens, otherwise you'll be doing a lot of sanding.
Amazing work! Looks great, i would like to try this…
I would have used a smooth cast to reinforce the seams. Instead of fiberglass and resin. It's also less toxic. Doesn't have much of a smell either.
Oh yeah don't poor chems down any drain. The city waterworks can trace it exactly to which drain it came from. Someone at my job didn't think pouring 15% concentrate Hydrochloride acid was a big deal. Until the business was fined $2 mill and the city had to replace 3+ miles of piping. Just in case anyone wanted to know why you can't pour chems down drains.
For all the lazy people out there, Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome spray paint works well to get a chrome finish.
Could anyone enlighten me: how does one select a power supply? Some have 2 dials, some 4, and the 30A units I found supplied between 25-30, which might be too much?
hello Hen3drik i am writing from turkey. First of all, thank you for your quality and beautiful sharing. I am also a 3d printer. I want to cover my models like you. tifoo brand products are not shipped to Turkey. What are the materials and proportions you use in the solution you use for the coating? Thank you from now. I'm looking forward to your new videos.
I want to bath nickel plate my helmet instead of brush plating it with palladium. The issue is I don't know how to calculate the voltage and amperage for nickel plating. Can you provide some insight? Is it the same as the 1a/dm^2?
Awesome 👏, just absolutely awesome 🤩.
Thanks 🙏🏻
Colour me impressed. The final product was amazing.
I used to work for a chrome plating place that would have costed about $74-100 to copper, nickel, then chrome plate all of it (they always used nickle because it reinforces the chrome and makes it shine brighter. That was a very unnecessary, expensive process. I does show a lot of dedication but after spraying with the conducting layer anyone would have done it and saved you lots of money and what did you do with all those chemicals when you were done? They can't be disposed of they have to be sent away.
amazing!!!! 👏👏
So much work but the result is really something special
This is the way
Ok this is awesome. Waiting for my 2 head Prusa XL - definitely going to be printing full helmet - and man I may have to try this!!!
I do copper electroforming on my glass artwork (my other yt name is hefeglass)
I wish it was lighter and could have a proper mirror polish. Maybe by reducing the wall thickness and adding more foam.
i'm guessing this strengthens the 3d prints quite a bit. Have you done any strength testing of plated parts?
The result of the technique looks great, however for any aspiring prop builder, Mandalorian helmets like this should never be left standing upright on their cheeks like this for longer, especially not if they are not reinforced at the lower chin area and do not have a very solid visor holding the cheeks together. You can actually see during the course of the videos how the cheeks bent outwards and warped a little simply due to the weight of the helmet resting on them. I had this happen even with a full resin-fiberglass cast that was much thicker and sturdier than this 3d-print.
Either put them upside down on the dome or get a helmet stand that has the contact point on the inside of the dome, never the sides. That's how I store and display my finished helmet as well.
Seeing Mando helmets with the cheeks warped and bent outwards due to improper storage is a bit of a pet peeve of mine.
You make it look so easy!!!! Been trying to do this process on my Daft Punk Helmets and things seem to go wrong 😢
Keep on!
Have you found a way to fix that Daft Punk helmet. I have a similar issue with a helmet that I’m electroplating and I’m asking around for a good route to take.
How much Beskar did this require? 1 bar? 2? Where did you find the right forge? 😀
I'm watching you dumping all that electrolyte and thinking to myself "sorry about your wallet". lol.
what a project!!! Perhaps you´ll make a detailed video series on how to electroplating.
Wow
Geez
wow
@10:00 You could always use empty waterbottles of something to displace some liquid and reduce the need of more to fill the container?
damn...thats alot of work! Its all too technical for me.. I'll just stick to spray painting lol
Krasser Effekt, hätte nicht gedacht, dass es so toll wird. Tolles Video, einen Like und mein Abo haste.
Extraordinary thanks for the wicked video amazing.