That's a Sankyo mechanism in these , and I believe there are 2 different idler tyres recommended to be 0k for this mechanism, in reality, only one is probably the correct one , in the future, I will be fitting new idlers tyres to both BX-125 & BX-150 .
+Vidtech thanks for the info. While I don’t have a test tape... yet ...the tyre I ended up using hasn’t caused and strange pitch changes or other weirdness so I think I got lucky with the correct one. Thanks for the comment! Happy listening. 👍😎
Cool, I never saw a Nakamichi with a silver front like that. By the way, the rubber comes off that white plastic idler wheel just like a car tire....you can buy new ones on ebay for about 6 bucks and just replace it.
Another way to do this is to apply Rubber Renue on the idler tyre. This is a chemical that softens glazed rubber. Just done this with a BX300 I purchased and seems to have worked. I did not remove the mechanism, just the backplate. I did apply the Rubber Renue several times before enough torque was present again.
That’s a great suggestion. Unfortunately I didn’t have any available to me at the time. I was able to get a replacement tire and will be able to experiment on the old one. I will give that a shot. Thanks. 👍😉
True enough. All the sanding in the world can’t make it new again. But it got me through a time sensitive transfer while waiting on replacements from Japan. Thanks for watching! And maybe, subscribing???
This mechanism is so finicky! I've never been able to get my BX-300 to work reliably long term, even with a new idler tyre. I suspect that the "elbow" and "shoulder" joints of the idler arm benefit from some lubrication, as if they get stiff, the idler won't bed down as deeply against the other wheels.
@@TheRattlebunny Actually, I think it's just the elbow joint that needs to move freely - the shoulder (coaxial with the motor) needs some friction, and indeed there's a spring mechanism to help pivot the arm while still allowing the motor to spin. I have improved things a lot by using a fine diamond file to abrade the surface of the idler tyre (once you get down to soft rubber it suddenly gets grippier and starts shedding more material). It took a while (maybe 10 mins) and I think the exposed rubber hardens again quite quickly.
Rubber Renew is great in some applications. However, my recommendation will always be to replace the tire, roller, or other with new if it's available. In my experience Rubber Renew isn't a long term solution as the rubber will harden once again fairly quickly. But, that said, it is a very effective temporary fix to "get through the session". Again, all IMHO. In this case I had to use what I had around. ;-)
+Dubious Engineering I’ve always loved Nakamichi. They used to build the best transport mechs, sadly the warmth of the old analog systems is being lost in the digital age. I’m hoping to put together my dream system from back in my the day. There will be more videos.
Idler wheel tires are common problems with old decks. My Yamaha K-1020 is a beauty and worth keeping. Replaced both belts and I have a similar problem with FF and RW. I will clean and sand first and give it a try. If that doesn't work someone suggested going to local hardware or a gasket supplier and matching up the idler tire with an o-ring. This is a dying craft for these old decks. Thanks for the info.
Try to find seamless uniform looking o rings if you go that way. I was able to finally locate replacement tires through alley express. This has turned out to be a temporary fix. But it seems to work well for a couple to a few weeks. Ultimately a replacement is required.
@@TheRattlebunny I did a deep clean with 70% isopropal alcohol on all rollers, gears the idler tire contacts and it worked like a charm. Hardest problem was getting screws to come loose. Yamaha must of used lock tite on all fasteners. The simple solution was to heat each fastener directly with a solder iron and they came out so easy. Thanks for the update.
@@spunkybandy7418 you don’t have to do anything to the motor. There are two screws in the bottom of the unit. And two or three on the top part if you have a lid removed right above the cassette mechanism. Remove the two bottom screws and the ones on top of the cassette mechanism and the whole mechanism can be removed for easier access to the idler wheel. Generally all I do is replace the tire. The tire is removed and replaced similar to an O-ring just make sure it doesn’t get twisted. The tire can be removed and replaced without removing the cassette mechanism. There is a shield that covers the hubs and the idle tire. That shield has two screws in it as well and can come out without removing the mechanism. My hands are just simply too big to do it that way.
That's a Sankyo mechanism in these , and I believe there are 2 different idler tyres recommended to be 0k for this mechanism, in reality, only one is probably the correct one , in the future, I will be fitting new idlers tyres to both BX-125 & BX-150 .
+Vidtech thanks for the info. While I don’t have a test tape... yet ...the tyre I ended up using hasn’t caused and strange pitch changes or other weirdness so I think I got lucky with the correct one. Thanks for the comment! Happy listening. 👍😎
Wow that makes me feel really old ! Great job Bro Hope it lasy a long while longer
Cool, I never saw a Nakamichi with a silver front like that. By the way, the rubber comes off that white plastic idler wheel just like a car tire....you can buy new ones on ebay for about 6 bucks and just replace it.
True. At the time I was waiting on a tyre from Japan. It was on the slo-boat. There’s a second video where the tyre gets replaced.
Another way to do this is to apply Rubber Renue on the idler tyre. This is a chemical that softens glazed rubber. Just done this with a BX300 I purchased and seems to have worked. I did not remove the mechanism, just the backplate. I did apply the Rubber Renue several times before enough torque was present again.
That’s a great suggestion. Unfortunately I didn’t have any available to me at the time. I was able to get a replacement tire and will be able to experiment on the old one. I will give that a shot. Thanks. 👍😉
This is only a temporary solution. The idler tire must be replaced.
True enough. All the sanding in the world can’t make it new again. But it got me through a time sensitive transfer while waiting on replacements from Japan. Thanks for watching! And maybe, subscribing???
This mechanism is so finicky! I've never been able to get my BX-300 to work reliably long term, even with a new idler tyre. I suspect that the "elbow" and "shoulder" joints of the idler arm benefit from some lubrication, as if they get stiff, the idler won't bed down as deeply against the other wheels.
Sounds like a good possibility, though I can’t say for sure. I’d be interested in how you make out.
@@TheRattlebunny Actually, I think it's just the elbow joint that needs to move freely - the shoulder (coaxial with the motor) needs some friction, and indeed there's a spring mechanism to help pivot the arm while still allowing the motor to spin. I have improved things a lot by using a fine diamond file to abrade the surface of the idler tyre (once you get down to soft rubber it suddenly gets grippier and starts shedding more material). It took a while (maybe 10 mins) and I think the exposed rubber hardens again quite quickly.
There is product called "Rubber Renue" and it works great for rejuvenating idler tires.
Rubber Renew is great in some applications. However, my recommendation will always be to replace the tire, roller, or other with new if it's available. In my experience Rubber Renew isn't a long term solution as the rubber will harden once again fairly quickly. But, that said, it is a very effective temporary fix to "get through the session". Again, all IMHO.
In this case I had to use what I had around. ;-)
Very Good Brother ... BRILLIANT MIND
You are too kind. Thank you.
True talent my friend
I don't know about all that ... but at least I'm finally using what I learned back at good ole C.I.A.
OMG I have a nakamichi video too :-)
+Dubious Engineering I’ve always loved Nakamichi. They used to build the best transport mechs, sadly the warmth of the old analog systems is being lost in the digital age. I’m hoping to put together my dream system from back in my the day. There will be more videos.
Idler wheel tires are common problems with old decks. My Yamaha K-1020 is a beauty and worth keeping. Replaced both belts and I have a similar problem with FF and RW. I will clean and sand first and give it a try. If that doesn't work someone suggested going to local hardware or a gasket supplier and matching up the idler tire with an o-ring. This is a dying craft for these old decks. Thanks for the info.
Try to find seamless uniform looking o rings if you go that way. I was able to finally locate replacement tires through alley express. This has turned out to be a temporary fix. But it seems to work well for a couple to a few weeks. Ultimately a replacement is required.
@@TheRattlebunny I did a deep clean with 70% isopropal alcohol on all rollers, gears the idler tire contacts and it worked like a charm. Hardest problem was getting screws to come loose. Yamaha must of used lock tite on all fasteners. The simple solution was to heat each fastener directly with a solder iron and they came out so easy. Thanks for the update.
Really nice and informative video! If I don't mind asking, but what size of screwdriver do I need to unscrew the bolts off from the shell top?
I think a standard sized Phillips will do it, but some had torx screws if I remember correctly. Not sure of exact size.
Okay then, and so how do you unscrew the inside of the motor for the playable deck to replace the idler?
@@spunkybandy7418 you don’t have to do anything to the motor. There are two screws in the bottom of the unit. And two or three on the top part if you have a lid removed right above the cassette mechanism. Remove the two bottom screws and the ones on top of the cassette mechanism and the whole mechanism can be removed for easier access to the idler wheel. Generally all I do is replace the tire. The tire is removed and replaced similar to an O-ring just make sure it doesn’t get twisted. The tire can be removed and replaced without removing the cassette mechanism. There is a shield that covers the hubs and the idle tire. That shield has two screws in it as well and can come out without removing the mechanism. My hands are just simply too big to do it that way.
It's "resurrection". Double "r" in the middle.
Since it’s just a temporary fix, I figured shorter resurection. Kidding, but thanks for keeping me on point. 😉👍