My hubs were not at all sealed so rain got in and rusted the magnets locking up the wheel. Thanks to your great video I was able to take apart the wheel, clean and lubricate and most importantly seal the hubs so this doesn't happen in future. Excellent demonstration.
Thanks mate. i bought the Bosch first gen motor it did over 10,000ks. 70km 4 times a week and never missed a beat. Then one day just about to start my journey to work grinding and locking up it died.. now going thru the warranty process, will post how that turns out.. i really hope these electric bicycle are not a ticking time bomb.
Thanks for this video dude. I've got 2 volimart 1000w hub motors that just seemed to give up the ghost for no good reason. At least now you've given me some idea as to what might be the problem.
Thanks a lot for taking the trouble to show me how to do that. I didn't realize the little cut out places where the hall sensors fit on the rotor. That makes it a lot easier doesn't it.
I think the best thing about this video is the problems you had along the way. Like the difficulty removing the hall sensor. Or even after completing the job it still didn't work until you found another issue. I have found a lot of repairs require never go as smooth as anticipated. Any bloopers for this video. I found the one with Sandy dropping in humorous. Ever think of a blooper reel?
I love it! I love your pad, too. You either have a motorhead wife or you're a bachalor! Either way, I'm jealous! Nice work and, thanks for the video. Looking forward to the next "electric motor" video...
If the motor will run fine when lifted off the ground, the controller is ok.. the hall sensors are also ok.. but you likely have one of 2 things going on.. 1- the battery voltage is dropping and cutting out under load.. 2- the motor wires are partially damaged and are unable to carry high power causing the controller to shut down when weight is applied to the bike... there could be other reasons but those are the most likely.. when the sensors themselves are bad, the motor will run very rough, or not at all... otherwise it's a wire problem.
+Ypedal my motor when lifted of the ground runs fine, like you said, but when i place it on the ground with the weight of the bycicle, it start to give little punchs and all the bike starts to shake and barely goes foward. could that be the hall sensors? like you said "when the sensors themselves are bad, the motor will run very rough", and it is.
So, did you fix the little punchs? It happend the same to me in a Gotway unycicle and I don't really know what to do. Any advice? Kind regards and great video!
Mine did the same, would run great with no weight, but when you add a load to it just jumps and no acceleration. Did a test of the hall sensor’s all good. Test the controller all good. I was stumped. So took the throttle apart, found there’s a sensor in there, did a test on that one ,it test bad. Yeah found the problem. Now I can’t find a sensor.
Hi John, I built up a DIY yuba mundo cargo bike with a used bmc V3 48 V hub , new CA 3 , lyen controller, 3 way switch , twist throttle. I have quite a bit of experience and tools working on bicycles, cars, and homes. Very limited experience working with electricity :) No experience on bikes. this is the note I sent to Edward. Hi Edward, Re : BMC V3 hub died mid ride So making sure I had a good ground this time ... I think that was why I was getting no reading on main blue, now all read 11.88 main yellow, main blue, main green... with throttle on or off, in any 1,2,or 3 switch setting. Still reading 53.9 V from Battery to Controller Moving to smaller Hall Sensor wires , while plugged in to power no throttle first testing main power or red and black 4.29 DC V all from controller side of casing black and blue rotating slowly backwards 5V /.034 V/ 0V / 5.0 V black and green 5V/.034 V / 0V / 5 V black and yellow 4.81V / .034V / 0 V/ 4.81 V Thanks Donny :) note I sent to endless sphere built this bike up from a frame last year and thought I finally had the bugs out. BMC V3 Hub 48V 1000 W Used Lyen Controller twist throttle 3 speed switch I just pulled this bike out for the new season, it charged to 54V ( full for my battery) and started up once I reconnected everything. At the end of last season I was just figuring out the CA but seemed to have it running smooth and also with in the pedal speeds that suited the three settings 1) set for starting and town, if I pedaled more then 10 mph the motor cuts out. 2) set for Bike Path 20 mph 3) 30 mph... I am late picking up kids. I have quite a bit of experience building bikes , limited electrical experience, no ebike experience. On the first ride into town the motor cut out mid ride I checked my connections and they seem fine, also checked battery charge fine Their is no motor noise in any speed setting or any throttle position. The hub moves fine by hand and still pedals fine I have contacted Edward and he is a great help but need to learn more about how these entire systems work. We are working on diagnosing the problem. What I have checked With My fluke I have 54 V to controller While plugged in I have 11.88 V DC coming off my main Blue, Yellow, and Green larger Gauge wires running to the hub. This does not change when I change the 3 speed setting , this does not change when I have the throttle full or off . Testing the smaller wires running from the hub to controller ( Hall sensor) ... All from the controller side...... everything plugged in .... I have 4.29 V from red to black from black to blue and turning the wheel slowly in reverse I read 5V to .034 V to 0 V back to 5V from black to green I read 5V to .034 V to 0V back to 5V from black to yellow I read 4.81V NOT 5V then .034 V to 0 V then back to 4.81V Any tips? Also I would love to understand how electrical bike systems run from the ground up, so I'll be better equipped to diagnose problems understanding what electricity/voltage/watts/amps all mean and how they relate to the system and how the systems components relate to each other. Any suggested readings???? after watching your video I did check for continuity from my phase wires to sensor wires and get nothing between any of them? So not sure why I do get a voltage reading when rolling the hub backwards at each hall sensor wire even though only 4.81 at yellow vs 5 at the green and blue. This is all foreign to me so excuse anything I have mentioned that makes no sense and please explain! Thanks !! Appreciate your time Donny
good video,how do you lube the bearings or do they need it,,i have a 36v 700w motor but don't want to take it apart if I have to,,can you just drip some oil on them from the outside like a regular bike wheel,,its all working fine for now,,,thanks for poasting.
Hey man it was very helpful.for me. I have the same issue with my 60v 2000w hub motor. Motor is not starting without a small push and runs for a second maximum. The interesting thing is i see all the sensors alive. Tomorrow i'll open the motor.and take a look. I will share the result here.
the wires you are soldering? the negative, positive, and blue. Are they from the same type of wire or are they specific types for each? I'm new to electrical but I may have damaged my wiring inside the motor during a dropout brake on my bike. All wires got twisted and now after 6 times or riding I get no running or it tried but then won't. Much like a short of some sorts.
Great vid well done my question is the wire thats wrapped around the shaft at the end where the cable goes out and up is it connected to anything inside the motor? and could this be my problem for the reading of e 9 on my display? it has a break and was wondering if that is it before opening the hub? any help would be helpful before it end up opening it and then have to buy new one lol thank you Steve
I was wondering if you could help me with a question about cut off brakes? I love my hydraulic brakes and I am getting a front wheel conversion and it has disk or v-bakes but I love disc for stopping power and how easy or hard is it the take the cut off switch from there kit and add to my hydraulic set? Many thanks for any help
Hey Ypedal, Very enlightening video. I've been having issues involving an excessively hot controller since upgrading my motor. And through lengthy trouble shooting and diagnostics, I discovered that my controller is now running sensorless. Somehow the sensor circuit must've gotten fried. To make it more frustrating, I think I have some defective hall wires in the new motor. Early on, when I started getting excessive heat in my controller (we're talking burnt fingers to the touch hot), I assumed my controller was under spec'd and I needed to upgrade to a 1200 Watt controller. (My current one is only 600) but after doing some tests with the new controller (which I haven't been able to get working on both my new motor and my old motor) I found that the halls of my new motor \ weren't responding to the new controller (I'm talking about the spin test where you see it alternate between the 0v and 5v as you slowly spin the wheel). After watching your video here, I got an idea to determine if there' just a damaged wire between the mootor and the hall connector. What was that continuity test you shoed at the end? What setting would I need to set my multimeter? And were you putting yellow hall to yellow phase, blue hall to blue phase and green hall to green phase?
yeah, for the time involved in a fet swap, depending on the controller's cost, and what your time is worth to you, it's sometimes just easier and quicker to get a new one.
Ypedal, can we get some information? Like what system is that, and where do I get one of those tools? I thought I heard 9 continent, googled it, yup, that is a brand. At 1:07, using a 3 donk gear puller? Really, found that on google too. Expensive.
Great instructional video. I own 5 Motorino XPD's. And personally believe from my experience the best electric motor scooters on the road. 1) 2 48 volt 500 watt (1 is original 8 yrs old) 2) 2 48 Volt 500 watt converted to 60 volt. 3) 1 60 volt 500 watt Question When converting a 48 volt 500 watt to a 60 volt 500 watt do the bikes have the necessary electrical components to handle the 60 volt upgrades? In other words, rather than just replacing just the 48 volt controller, to a 60 volt controller, is there additional upgrading of other components to handle 60 volts? Recently, (after approximately 2300 klms) after going up a rather steep incline, the bike stopped. No power. After a tow truck home, I turned the key on and there was power, the rear wheel turned but had a rub sound. Turned key off. Turned key on and the breaker now flashes and kicks off and the wheel now takes significant effort (few pounds) to turn, making that rubbing sound, in either direction. Also, note, I'm running 60 V 35Ah LIPO batteries in all 60 volt 500 watt electric scooters. And are you in Vancouver, BC? And do you run a shop? (I thought I heard "Vancouver" mentioned on the background radio) TIA Cheers 😀🍺👍
Need some help.. I recently bought a 5000 watt hub motor with a 96V 100A controller hooked it up and didn't run. Looks like when I turn the throttle the motor turns to a specific spot and stops dead(locks up) then the controller turns off. How do I safely determine if the problem is related to the motor or the controller?
The number of turns of copper determine rpm per volt, all motors spin faster with higher voltage, but depending on how many turns of copper it was built with, the rpm of a given voltage can vary.... with hub motors, smaller diameter rims use lower count turn motors ( less turns = faster ... more turns = slower , per volt )
It's typically called a Three Jaw Puller, search it on google and it comes up readily, found at most auto parts stores, NAPA, Princess Auto, Canadian Tire, or just by one online... 10 to 30 $.. well worth having on hand.
Dunno if anyone answered ya but that's typically known as a gear puller and can usually be found at your bigger hardware store (like Home Depot or Lowes) I think, or most definitely at automotive stores (like O'Reilly's or NAPA).
hey man great video ive got a sparta bike and i pulled up te motor too use the hall sensors but there are non in the motor so can you help me put some in or is it a not done task ?
@Davina Smith , First step is to measure your battery voltage.. if this is a 36v battery, it should be 36v+ .. if it's at 32v or less the pack needs to be charged and it would explain the bike having no power with wheel on the ground..
they are sealed cartridge bearings, unlike loose bearings like in the head tube. They do not need to be relubricated for many years, if you ever have to open the motor for any reason (* like water inside or hall problems ) then you could lube the bearings by removing the thin plastic film on the bearing and repacking them ... but again.. not required specially if you never ride in rain.
Hello, Ypedal, where can you buy the hall sensors? are the inexpensive? I have a motor from an ebike called a Keshan will it work with other models of bikes? also is there a way to test the motor to see if it will work once repaired? because I don't have an extra set of batteries.
I have to replace the 3 hall sensors on my motor 48volts 1000 w. I can buy a honeywell sensor but I don't know how to select the correct reference. Could you please advise?
i know that i have a bad hall sensor on my bike. my bike still runs ok. but it kinda jerks a little here and there without me even pressing on the throttle could this be tha hall sensor or is there another issue?
dude i have a simple question..I bought my self two hub motors from the internet..Ones a 48v 1000w rear and and a 36v 500w. they look just alike with the same hard ware but the charge controller ones bigger(48v) .Yeah i know over kill but the batteries for those hover boards are cheap right now (36v 4.4ah). Anyway my 36v got damaged (wires on the wheel).Can i use my 48v 1000w wheel with the 36v controller?.All the hardware is the same and they look just alike
how big does this motor measure across, mines about 23cm but looking at a this video paused and my hub photos you have more metal from the ''holes'' to the pressed ''spokes'' than i do so i think this is larger. I'm just looking at the possibilities of sandwiching two of those motors together, dissemble them both, put all the lamination's together, rewind, join the two stator rings and then struggle to spoke it up... why? i can buy 2 HK wheels cheaper than one decent US wheel shipped to UK.
@Ypedal Hello, I just saw your video and I have a question , if you can help me. Recently I received an Flyer E-Bike F Series (made 2000-2003) and I wonder if you can help me with repair . It doesn't have tork but battery is perfect . The bike have mid hub motor that I can't find anywhere on internet . Regards.
Great video. Question. My ebike works fine, but when I do the motor phase wire test and turn wheel (backwards) for resistance I don't get any but motor works fine and hall sensors work fine. This is not normal but it hasn't caused problems. And ideas why? /bklyn 👑
usually they are teflon coated, very thing high heat teflon is ideal but if you run at normal power levels and the motor is not getting smoking hot.. any wire will do.. network cable works good for hall sensor wires, very thin.. If the wire outside the motor is long enough, you can cut it off and pull in some good section.
If i understand your question, yes. . the hall sensors have 3 pins, Pos+ , Neg- and Signal ( Blue / Yellow / Green ) .. separate wires for the hall sensors, The hall sensors are not soldered to the 3 large gauge power/phase wires.
Hi, the cable comes with an adhesive at the entrance to engine that sealant . that glue is ? like teflon base but I fail to find the right and do not want to put silicone
Unless you plan to over-power your motor severely, anything will do, including silicone and you can also get high temp silicone, they use what looks to be liquid tape, black stuff.. some time ago i recall someone saying that certain silicone blends have solvents harmful to electronics but i can't remember the details at the moment... you could use epoxy as well, a bit harder to remove in tight places tho if you ever have to go in there again, but i rarely have to repair a motor twice..
you're a bit rough with the magnets but ok. good video. ;) , idk about the difference in operation of the motor, but i would cross the wires an then solder it ,wouldn't that make them a bit stronger on the connections ? talking about the short wires.. it would help if you can tell me would crossing them effect it in a bad way ?
Hiya found out it was my speed controller/transmitter. :( trouble I don't know we're to get one? Could you let me know of anywhere other than ebay? As they do fit. Ty again Dee :) x
This is really good info too bad we don't have the clarity or camera angles to really see what he is doing.the soldering part is a bit better as far as seeing what he does. Nice video.
can you help me?? I just bought a hub motor kit all my connections to the controller are ok but the hub doesn't spin when I twist the throttle.. what tests should I do to see what's the problem. Thanks.
my wire are broke off at end the gears where the gears are.can not take off cap because gears in the way . can i just pop off that metal an d rubber seal witn screw driver or iam i going to damage it?
Is the hall sensors/wires the weakest link in the chain in hub motor? Are they the ones that can break first? I have a 2800w motor that stopped working.. It jerks for a micro-second and stops... Learning wire did not make any difference.
my brand new scooter with only 1 minute ride, refuse to do anything. even if i lift the wheel or give it a push start, nothing happened. according to the meter, the battery is in good shape. however i don't fully understand how to test the controller and motor. i also got a new throttle from the seller but that didn't help anything. i am wondering if any of this could be related?
Good video. I have a few Questions about a rear hub 1000w motor and controller set up if you might have time to help. Could use the knowledge of a pro! Thanks.
can u please help me their are 2 different unbranded 3000w ebay hub motors one of them have the wires that come out both sides of the motor and the other one for sale just has them coming out of one side
That entirely depends on exactly what controller you have... " most " controllers can be fooled into allowing more amps by soldering up the shunt, but the battery voltage is what determines rpm.. Other factors to consider are LED throttle vs regular throttles.. display units also can be affected by modifications. Register on Endless Sphere and post pictures of your setup for detailed help.
Hey I learned alot from your video thank you, but I'm having trouble with my 500watt hub motor maybe you can help, so I took the motor apart, and the magnets are fine so that's good, so using my multimeter on the continuity setting and my hall sensor plug unplugged from the controller, I put my black lead from my meter to the black on the plug and my other lead to each pin on all three sensors, on each sensor I get a continuity, which is good I beleave, same story with the red, and if I put one of my leads on the blue for example and my other lead to the sensor that has the blue wire I get continuity, same with the yellow and same with the green, I'm stumped, CA. The sensors still be blown, or what else could be the problem, and I know my controller is fine because I'm testing my faulty motor on my daily driver ebike, and that bike is fine
man I hope you see this comment. I have a gotrax glx scooter. Im trying to figure out why it wont run. Anyways, I have the hub motor cover removed and I do not see hall sensors or wires that even go to them. All i see is green blue and yellow. Only 3 larger wires run to that wheel/hub drive. Is this normal and what is it called, so I can search efficiently on a solution?
Thanks! Very helpful video. I am rebuilding a relatively new Golden Motor that was not at all sealed well. Water got in the motor and rotted out the connections to my hall sensors. It looks like it will be a relatively easy repair. But this is a very large 5Kw motor that can run very hot. Should I worry about the lead-content of the solder that I use? Also - I am thinking I need to find an epoxy rated for high heat to seal the sensors back in. If you had any thoughts on materiels, please share! :-)
I HAVE BEEN TRYING TO FIND A VIDEO LIKE YOUR FOR ALMOST 2 MONTHS, THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR KNOWLEDGE
My hubs were not at all sealed so rain got in and rusted the magnets locking up the wheel. Thanks to your great video I was able to take apart the wheel, clean and lubricate and most importantly seal the hubs so this doesn't happen in future. Excellent demonstration.
HERE WE ARE YEARS LATER AND I WANT TO THANK YOU FOR THE EASY TO FOLLOW VIDEO!
Thanks mate. i bought the Bosch first gen motor it did over 10,000ks. 70km 4 times a week and never missed a beat. Then one day just about to start my journey to work grinding and locking up it died.. now going thru the warranty process, will post how that turns out.. i really hope these electric bicycle are not a ticking time bomb.
Very nice video hubmotor HAL sensor fitting and wairng diagram full details thanks 👍 sr
Very nice many ebike user in phillippines depends in watching tutorials in utube youve been a big help for them by showong video blogs
I m fm INDIA 🇮🇳 LOVE u sir thanks a lot to encourage me to do my
by cycle proper work
Me same problem as u face now i m going to check my wire first 😊
Thanks for this video dude. I've got 2 volimart 1000w hub motors that just seemed to give up the ghost for no good reason. At least now you've given me some idea as to what might be the problem.
Thanks for a very useful video. I have a dead motor and what you showed is a big help for the next step in fixing it.
Your video helped me repair my motor with similar issues. Thank you for your posting.
Thanks a lot for taking the trouble to show me how to do that. I didn't realize the little cut out places where the hall sensors fit on the rotor. That makes it a lot easier doesn't it.
I think the best thing about this video is the problems you had along the way. Like the difficulty removing the hall sensor. Or even after completing the job it still didn't work until you found another issue. I have found a lot of repairs require never go as smooth as anticipated. Any bloopers for this video. I found the one with Sandy dropping in humorous. Ever think of a blooper reel?
Saw you were Canadian and doing ebike motors repairs and I subbed. About to build my first one and am going with a front hub.
Thanks, Ypedal! Great instructions on opening a motor. Very helpful.
Out standing videos 👍👍☺️ that is what I have to do to mine thanks for the update on the hall ☺️
Thanks for your videos very useful. Will try your continuity test for wires as wheel won't fire up from dead start. Thanks again
I love it! I love your pad, too. You either have a motorhead wife or you're a bachalor! Either way, I'm jealous! Nice work and, thanks for the video. Looking forward to the next "electric motor" video...
Damn it. I've been prying the plate with chisels until I could fit the gear puller underneath :( Another great vid.
If the motor will run fine when lifted off the ground, the controller is ok.. the hall sensors are also ok.. but you likely have one of 2 things going on.. 1- the battery voltage is dropping and cutting out under load.. 2- the motor wires are partially damaged and are unable to carry high power causing the controller to shut down when weight is applied to the bike... there could be other reasons but those are the most likely.. when the sensors themselves are bad, the motor will run very rough, or not at all... otherwise it's a wire problem.
+Ypedal my motor when lifted of the ground runs fine, like you said, but when i place it on the ground with the weight of the bycicle, it start to give little punchs and all the bike starts to shake and barely goes foward. could that be the hall sensors? like you said "when the sensors themselves are bad, the motor will run very rough", and it is.
So, did you fix the little punchs? It happend the same to me in a Gotway unycicle and I don't really know what to do. Any advice? Kind regards and great video!
Pablo Lacasa could be the sensors or tray to switch the wires i have the same thing sometimes it runs sometimes it just dont
Ypedal
Mine did the same, would run great with no weight, but when you add a load to it just jumps and no acceleration. Did a test of the hall sensor’s all good. Test the controller all good. I was stumped. So took the throttle apart, found there’s a sensor in there, did a test on that one ,it test bad. Yeah found the problem. Now I can’t find a sensor.
loved your video..... HATE fun lol heard them in the background and almost didn't finish watching lol
Hi John,
I built up a DIY yuba mundo cargo bike with a used bmc V3 48 V hub , new CA 3 , lyen controller, 3 way switch , twist throttle.
I have quite a bit of experience and tools working on bicycles, cars, and homes. Very limited experience working with electricity :) No experience on bikes.
this is the note I sent to Edward.
Hi Edward, Re : BMC V3 hub died mid ride
So making
sure I had a good ground this time ... I think that was why I was
getting no reading on main blue, now all read 11.88 main yellow, main
blue, main green... with throttle on or off, in any 1,2,or 3 switch
setting. Still reading 53.9 V from Battery to Controller
Moving to smaller Hall Sensor wires , while plugged in to power no throttle
first testing main power or red and black 4.29 DC V all from controller side of casing
black and blue rotating slowly backwards 5V /.034 V/ 0V / 5.0 V
black and green 5V/.034 V / 0V / 5 V
black and yellow 4.81V / .034V / 0 V/ 4.81 V
Thanks
Donny :)
note I sent to endless sphere
built this bike up from a frame last year and thought I finally had the bugs out.
BMC V3 Hub 48V 1000 W Used
Lyen Controller
twist throttle
3 speed switch
I
just pulled this bike out for the new season, it charged to 54V ( full
for my battery) and started up once I reconnected everything.
At the
end of last season I was just figuring out the CA but seemed to have it
running smooth and also with in the pedal speeds that suited the three
settings
1) set for starting and town, if I pedaled more then 10 mph the motor cuts out.
2) set for Bike Path 20 mph
3) 30 mph... I am late picking up kids.
I have quite a bit of experience building bikes , limited electrical experience, no ebike experience.
On the first ride into town the motor cut out mid ride
I checked my connections and they seem fine, also checked battery charge fine
Their is no motor noise in any speed setting or any throttle position.
The hub moves fine by hand and still pedals fine
I have contacted Edward and he is a great help but need to learn more about how these entire systems work.
We are working on diagnosing the problem.
What I have checked
With My fluke I have 54 V to controller
While
plugged in I have 11.88 V DC coming off my main Blue, Yellow, and Green
larger Gauge wires running to the hub. This does not change when I
change the 3 speed setting , this does not change when I have the
throttle full or off .
Testing the smaller wires running from
the hub to controller ( Hall sensor) ... All from the controller
side...... everything plugged in ....
I have 4.29 V from red to black
from black to blue and turning the wheel slowly in reverse I read 5V to .034 V to 0 V back to 5V
from black to green I read 5V to .034 V to 0V back to 5V
from black to yellow I read 4.81V NOT 5V then .034 V to 0 V then back to 4.81V
Any tips?
Also
I would love to understand how electrical bike systems run from the
ground up, so I'll be better equipped to diagnose problems understanding
what electricity/voltage/watts/amps all mean and how they relate to the
system and how the systems components relate to each other. Any
suggested readings????
after watching your video I did check for continuity from my phase wires to sensor wires and get nothing between any of them?
So not sure why I do get a voltage reading when rolling the hub backwards at each hall sensor wire even though only 4.81 at yellow vs 5 at the green and blue.
This is all foreign to me so excuse anything I have mentioned that makes no sense and please explain! Thanks !!
Appreciate your time
Donny
best instructional ive found, bad video angles and lighting tho
good video,how do you lube the bearings or do they need it,,i have a 36v 700w motor but don't want to take it apart if I have to,,can you just drip some oil on them from the outside like a regular bike wheel,,its all working fine for now,,,thanks for poasting.
Hey man it was very helpful.for me. I have the same issue with my 60v 2000w hub motor. Motor is not starting without a small push and runs for a second maximum. The interesting thing is i see all the sensors alive. Tomorrow i'll open the motor.and take a look. I will share the result here.
Thanks a lot for this video! I have just successfully replaced the sensors and my motor is spinning back!
Pls how do I get the sensor I'm from Nigeria
How do I get a sensor
@@innocentanigbogu8890 what was his response how do I get one
Todays sensorless controllers are nice. Dont be afraid to cut the hall sensors out and beef up the 3 phase wires👍
the wires you are soldering? the negative, positive, and blue. Are they from the same type of wire or are they specific types for each? I'm new to electrical but I may have damaged my wiring inside the motor during a dropout brake on my bike. All wires got twisted and now after 6 times or riding I get no running or it tried but then won't. Much like a short of some sorts.
Great vid well done my question is the wire thats wrapped around the shaft at the end where the cable goes out and up is it connected to anything inside the motor? and could this be my problem for the reading of e 9 on my display? it has a break and was wondering if that is it before opening the hub? any help would be helpful before it end up opening it and then have to buy new one lol thank you Steve
Good job.
@Karmabike, very true on all counts.
Great video.
Question…does it matter if the hall sensor replacement is unipolar or bipolar?
Can’t find any information online or on RUclips.
/Bklyn👑
I was wondering if you could help me with a question about cut off brakes?
I love my hydraulic brakes and I am getting a front wheel conversion and it has disk or v-bakes but I love disc for stopping power and how easy or hard is it the take the cut off switch from there kit and add to my hydraulic set?
Many thanks for any help
Very informative video. Thanks for the upload!
I did the same thing was about to rip it apart. It was the green ground thank god I caught it. People CHECK your connections before freaking out
Hey Ypedal,
Very enlightening video. I've been having issues involving an excessively hot controller since upgrading my motor. And through lengthy trouble shooting and diagnostics, I discovered that my controller is now running sensorless. Somehow the sensor circuit must've gotten fried.
To make it more frustrating, I think I have some defective hall wires in the new motor. Early on, when I started getting excessive heat in my controller (we're talking burnt fingers to the touch hot), I assumed my controller was under spec'd and I needed to upgrade to a 1200 Watt controller. (My current one is only 600) but after doing some tests with the new controller (which I haven't been able to get working on both my new motor and my old motor) I found that the halls of my new motor \ weren't responding to the new controller (I'm talking about the spin test where you see it alternate between the 0v and 5v as you slowly spin the wheel).
After watching your video here, I got an idea to determine if there' just a damaged wire between the mootor and the hall connector.
What was that continuity test you shoed at the end? What setting would I need to set my multimeter? And were you putting yellow hall to yellow phase, blue hall to blue phase and green hall to green phase?
Giving the tool a few hits with a hammer helps to seat the tool before you turn it and I think the shock wave helps loosen it as well.
Very nice and informative video...may i ask what hall sensor you used?.
yeah, for the time involved in a fet swap, depending on the controller's cost, and what your time is worth to you, it's sometimes just easier and quicker to get a new one.
Will the 6 kmh walk mode work if the sensors are bad ?
thanks a lot Man. Thats really worth watching!
Ypedal, can we get some information? Like what system is that, and where do I get one of those tools? I thought I heard 9 continent, googled it, yup, that is a brand. At 1:07, using a 3 donk gear puller? Really, found that on google too. Expensive.
Great instructional video.
I own 5 Motorino XPD's. And personally believe from my experience the best electric motor scooters on the road.
1) 2 48 volt 500 watt (1 is original 8 yrs old)
2) 2 48 Volt 500 watt converted to 60 volt.
3) 1 60 volt 500 watt
Question
When converting a 48 volt 500 watt to a 60 volt 500 watt do the bikes have the necessary electrical components to handle the 60 volt upgrades?
In other words, rather than just replacing just the 48 volt controller, to a 60 volt controller, is there additional upgrading of other components to handle 60 volts?
Recently, (after approximately 2300 klms) after going up a rather steep incline, the bike stopped. No power.
After a tow truck home, I turned the key on and there was power, the rear wheel turned but had a rub sound. Turned key off. Turned key on and the breaker now flashes and kicks off and the wheel now takes significant effort (few pounds) to turn, making that rubbing sound, in either direction.
Also, note, I'm running 60 V 35Ah LIPO batteries in all 60 volt 500 watt electric scooters.
And are you in Vancouver, BC? And do you run a shop?
(I thought I heard "Vancouver" mentioned on the background radio)
TIA
Cheers
😀🍺👍
Absolut coool!!! ALso zuerst am besten das Kabel prüfen, jede einzelne Lietze. Dann ran an den Motorsensor, falls noch nötig.
Need some help.. I recently bought a 5000 watt hub motor with a 96V 100A controller hooked it up and didn't run. Looks like when I turn the throttle the motor turns to a specific spot and stops dead(locks up) then the controller turns off. How do I safely determine if the problem is related to the motor or the controller?
The number of turns of copper determine rpm per volt, all motors spin faster with higher voltage, but depending on how many turns of copper it was built with, the rpm of a given voltage can vary.... with hub motors, smaller diameter rims use lower count turn motors ( less turns = faster ... more turns = slower , per volt )
I feel that much more confident that I won't squish my fingers when I take apart my motor now.
hi, where does one find this 3-way vice you use to pry the motor open ? What kind of shops/mechanics would typically have/use these ? Thanks
It's typically called a Three Jaw Puller, search it on google and it comes up readily, found at most auto parts stores, NAPA, Princess Auto, Canadian Tire, or just by one online... 10 to 30 $.. well worth having on hand.
Dunno if anyone answered ya but that's typically known as a gear puller and can usually be found at your bigger hardware store (like Home Depot or Lowes) I think, or most definitely at automotive stores (like O'Reilly's or NAPA).
That tool is a bearing puller
hey man great video
ive got a sparta bike and i pulled up te motor too use the hall sensors
but there are non in the motor
so can you help me put some in or is it a not done task ?
@Davina Smith , First step is to measure your battery voltage.. if this is a 36v battery, it should be 36v+ .. if it's at 32v or less the pack needs to be charged and it would explain the bike having no power with wheel on the ground..
they are sealed cartridge bearings, unlike loose bearings like in the head tube. They do not need to be relubricated for many years, if you ever have to open the motor for any reason (* like water inside or hall problems ) then you could lube the bearings by removing the thin plastic film on the bearing and repacking them ... but again.. not required specially if you never ride in rain.
Can a brushless motor controller will match to any brushless hub motor. I mean there are different numbers on hall sensors.
How big is your 3 jaw gear puller? Im trying to buy one but don’t want it to be too small.
Hello, Ypedal, where can you buy the hall sensors? are the inexpensive? I have a motor from an ebike called a Keshan will it work with other models of bikes? also is there a way to test the motor to see if it will work once repaired? because I don't have an extra set of batteries.
What size jaw puller did you use to remove the cover?
my motor make that noise when i accelerate and does not run do you think is probably the blue cable having the problem?
I have to replace the 3 hall sensors on my motor 48volts 1000 w. I can buy a honeywell sensor but I don't know how to select the correct reference. Could you please advise?
Intelligent and informative. Thank You
Amazingly informative! Thank you.
Is there anyway I could connect a battery straight to the hub without the controller to see if it runs?
i know that i have a bad hall sensor on my bike. my bike still runs ok. but it kinda jerks a little here and there without me even pressing on the throttle could this be tha hall sensor or is there another issue?
Awesome video! great troubleshooting
dude i have a simple question..I bought my self two hub motors from the internet..Ones a 48v 1000w rear and and a 36v 500w. they look just alike with the same hard ware but the charge controller ones bigger(48v) .Yeah i know over kill but the batteries for those hover boards are cheap right now (36v 4.4ah). Anyway my 36v got damaged (wires on the wheel).Can i use my 48v 1000w wheel with the 36v controller?.All the hardware is the same and they look just alike
how big does this motor measure across, mines about 23cm but looking at a this video paused and my hub photos you have more metal from the ''holes'' to the pressed ''spokes'' than i do so i think this is larger.
I'm just looking at the possibilities of sandwiching two of those motors together, dissemble them both, put all the lamination's together, rewind, join the two stator rings and then struggle to spoke it up...
why? i can buy 2 HK wheels cheaper than one decent US wheel shipped to UK.
@Ypedal Hello, I just saw your video and I have a question , if you can help me. Recently I received an Flyer E-Bike F Series (made 2000-2003) and I wonder if you can help me with repair . It doesn't have tork but battery is perfect . The bike have mid hub motor that I can't find anywhere on internet . Regards.
Great video. Question.
My ebike works fine, but when I do the motor phase wire test and turn wheel (backwards) for resistance I don't get any but motor works fine and hall sensors work fine. This is not normal but it hasn't caused problems. And ideas why?
/bklyn 👑
Excellent tutorial. Learnt a great deal. Thanks buddy :)
usually they are teflon coated, very thing high heat teflon is ideal but if you run at normal power levels and the motor is not getting smoking hot.. any wire will do.. network cable works good for hall sensor wires, very thin.. If the wire outside the motor is long enough, you can cut it off and pull in some good section.
What is the name of that gizmo you got from Lyon to test the wires in the hub?
Hi there, does the wires soldered directly to the hall sensor poles?
If i understand your question, yes. . the hall sensors have 3 pins, Pos+ , Neg- and Signal ( Blue / Yellow / Green ) .. separate wires for the hall sensors, The hall sensors are not soldered to the 3 large gauge power/phase wires.
Why do these hall sensors burn out ? Do high quality bikes have better sensors ?
...wollten Dich fragen wie die Bezeichnung der Hallsensoren ist, die Du verwendest und wo ich die kaufen kann?( Hallsensor SS41F), danke im vorraus!!!
Hello, I have a 48 volts 1000 watt wheel and I think I must change transistor. Which model ? It's written very small ..... Thank you
Hi
Good video. Have you ever taken apart a E-Bikekkit motor? It requires different technique than the gear puller you used here.
Awesome repair work! Well done!
Hi, the cable comes with an adhesive at the entrance to engine that sealant . that glue is ? like teflon base but I fail to find the right and do not want to put silicone
Unless you plan to over-power your motor severely, anything will do, including silicone and you can also get high temp silicone, they use what looks to be liquid tape, black stuff.. some time ago i recall someone saying that certain silicone blends have solvents harmful to electronics but i can't remember the details at the moment... you could use epoxy as well, a bit harder to remove in tight places tho if you ever have to go in there again, but i rarely have to repair a motor twice..
Well done, amazing video, good logic, i've learn'd a lot, thank you very much!!
you're a bit rough with the magnets but ok. good video. ;) , idk about the difference in operation of the motor, but i would cross the wires an then solder it ,wouldn't that make them a bit stronger on the connections ? talking about the short wires.. it would help if you can tell me would crossing them effect it in a bad way ?
Hiya found out it was my speed controller/transmitter. :( trouble I don't know we're to get one? Could you let me know of anywhere other than ebay? As they do fit. Ty again Dee :) x
Great info video. Thank You!
This is really good info too bad we don't have the clarity or camera angles to really see what he is doing.the soldering part is a bit better as far as seeing what he does. Nice video.
can you help me??
I just bought a hub motor kit all my connections to the controller are ok but the hub doesn't spin when I twist the throttle..
what tests should I do to see what's the problem.
Thanks.
Yeah... also, the number of turns determines the wattage of the motor. So it follows that the wattage determines the max rpm for a given voltage.
my wire are broke off at end the gears where the gears are.can not take off cap because gears in the way . can i just pop off that metal an d rubber seal witn screw driver or iam i going to damage it?
que tipo de sensor hall estas colocando??
Where do you get the hall sensors for the replacement?
Is the hall sensors/wires the weakest link in the chain in hub motor? Are they the ones that can break first? I have a 2800w motor that stopped working.. It jerks for a micro-second and stops... Learning wire did not make any difference.
Where did you get your since did he reply to you
22:34 wow, that's gotta be some significant stall torque :P
my brand new scooter with only 1 minute ride, refuse to do anything. even if i lift the wheel or give it a push start, nothing happened. according to the meter, the battery is in good shape. however i don't fully understand how to test the controller and motor. i also got a new throttle from the seller but that didn't help anything. i am wondering if any of this could be related?
Good video. I have a few Questions about a rear hub 1000w motor and controller set up if you might have time to help. Could use the knowledge of a pro!
Thanks.
Could u tell me where i can get hall sensor is there any cd player or something i can take parts out of
can u please help me their are 2 different unbranded 3000w ebay hub motors one of them have the wires that come out both sides of the motor and the other one for sale just has them coming out of one side
Just out of interest where would you buy or sell a damaged hub motor I might have one - interesting video!
That entirely depends on exactly what controller you have... " most " controllers can be fooled into allowing more amps by soldering up the shunt, but the battery voltage is what determines rpm.. Other factors to consider are LED throttle vs regular throttles.. display units also can be affected by modifications. Register on Endless Sphere and post pictures of your setup for detailed help.
Where can I get this tool to open the hub?
Hey I learned alot from your video thank you, but I'm having trouble with my 500watt hub motor maybe you can help, so I took the motor apart, and the magnets are fine so that's good, so using my multimeter on the continuity setting and my hall sensor plug unplugged from the controller, I put my black lead from my meter to the black on the plug and my other lead to each pin on all three sensors, on each sensor I get a continuity, which is good I beleave, same story with the red, and if I put one of my leads on the blue for example and my other lead to the sensor that has the blue wire I get continuity, same with the yellow and same with the green, I'm stumped, CA. The sensors still be blown, or what else could be the problem, and I know my controller is fine because I'm testing my faulty motor on my daily driver ebike, and that bike is fine
I wonder if you can help me with my elite problem
Thanx for this video, what hall sensors did you use, what is the part number....Thanx
3144s
man I hope you see this comment. I have a gotrax glx scooter. Im trying to figure out why it wont run. Anyways, I have the hub motor cover removed and I do not see hall sensors or wires that even go to them. All i see is green blue and yellow. Only 3 larger wires run to that wheel/hub drive. Is this normal and what is it called, so I can search efficiently on a solution?
How did you remove the other side with the wires?
Thanks! Very helpful video. I am rebuilding a relatively new Golden Motor that was not at all sealed well. Water got in the motor and rotted out the connections to my hall sensors. It looks like it will be a relatively easy repair. But this is a very large 5Kw motor that can run very hot. Should I worry about the lead-content of the solder that I use? Also - I am thinking I need to find an epoxy rated for high heat to seal the sensors back in. If you had any thoughts on materiels, please share! :-)
Wash your hands after soldering with soap and water.
can you work on a hall sensor without removing the entire motor?
Nice Job Ypedal