Yes, the video was helpful. Had our system now for 3 months and I’m, umm obsessed with the fact we’re able to power with the sun. Constantly looking at it. Thanks for your schematics and videos. Very much appreciated. P.S. Loving both your shirts.
Store your lithum batteries at 50% I like dielectric grease on my larger connections but maybe that's bad?? Also, use a thermal camera and stress test your setup with a heavy load (i brew coffee). Hot spots are lost power and may suggest a bolt tightening or increase wire gauge needed
Each battery manufacturer has its own storage recommendations, and most are well above 50%, so the better recommendation there is: store your batteries according to manufacturer recommendations.
@@EXPLORISTlife That would be the better advice. Lead acids love to be full and kept that way... lithium hate a full charge and degrade rapidly if kept near 100%. (For no citable reason, I'd suggest 60 or 65% and maybe setting my controller to treat that as full if using the panels for extended storage.)
Again... follow manufacturers recommendations. Battle Born, for example, recommends charging to 100% and then disconnecting: battlebornbatteries.com/faq-how-to-winterize-your-batteries/
@@EXPLORISTlife . Wow. AIUI... Li-ion dendritic occurrence is an irreversible result of high capacity state duration... it's a function of the current chemistry. And it's a terminal 'disease' of same. If your sponsor Battle Born has a solution... I should think it would be either known, or widely flouted in their marketing. Yes?
Perhaps you should chat with Battle Born about that? They wouldn't make that recommendation AND warranty their batteries for 10 years at the same time if they felt it detrimental, I'm sure.
I hope you see this question. Because I’m confused! lol! I’m moving some electrical stuff in my van and I need to know if you have to run wiring above or is it okay to run it lower? Like below the flooring?? Wish I could show you a picture but can’t do that here. lol I’m moving the AC outlet wiring. Thank you so much 😊
Was wondering if you have any suggestions on how to ground my electrical system to and all aluminum trailer. I’m converting an all aluminum cargo trailer into a camper. Using a Bluetti AC 300 as my solar system. I have 30 amp shore power. I have the bluetti and shore power coming into a transfer switch. Not sure how to ground the progressive dynamics distribution panel with aluminum frame. Should I run separate grounds, one for ac and one for 12v, to the trailers distribution box or to the axles? Thanks
Great tips! On the washer tip, I did recently hear that in the rare event where your frame of your trailer is aluminum, when grounding your system, you should probably put a stainless steel washer between the copper lug and aluminum frame to prevent degradation of the aluminum. Thoughts?
You would be better off using a tinned copper lug as the tin acts like a galvanic bridge. If that is not an option, in HV applications we use a bi-metallic plate (google may reveal one for applications like this…not sure). Stainless is not a great conductor and would heat the interface like a standard washer as described in the video. Stainless is the appropriate bolt and washer for that application because it is not reactive with either metal, but you should either use anti-seize for the nut or find a silicon bronze nut to avoid galling.
By the way Nate I've been meaning to tell you nice hair ‼️ Mine is very similar, I've been wearing it that way for quite a number of years. Thanks again for all your videos you have helped me immensely. I didn't even think about about the washers. I'm notorious for doing that. But it sure sounds logical not too
You made a couple of points I've neglected which shows ya'll have been down in the ditches personally. Great channel and I do refer it to friends who ask me about fulltiming. It seems as our gooberment continues to make us poorer there are more and more peeps wantin' to explore-rrrr. ;-)
Always enjoy your videos for several years. I was wondering if you will be doing episodes on the next stages of your van build? I’m sure the construction component would be very interesting. Thanks.
We are just getting to a point where these projects take longer than a week, so to keep up with a once a week schedule, we've got to spread them out with these Shorter videos.
I’m expanding and upgrading my battery bank on my boat. In that case I have to move the battery to another place, in that case the battery switch will be about 1 to 2m from the battery bank. I was wondering if this matters or do I have to move the battery switch as well?
@gattaca: Every reputable battery manufacture provides a torque spec for their battery terminals. RTFM and don’t exceed this spec and you won’t damage the battery. A similar comment can be made for high quality components; e. g., bus bars, battery switches, BMS connection’s, etc. Since many fasteners used to connect to components are SS, and SS has a tendency to gall, we put conductive anti-seize on these threaded joints. Finally, barring a manufacturers’ torque spec, a general rule is that after the lock washer has been fully compressed, if you apply any additional torque, you are just showing off,
I don't know if my previous comment needed approval or if I didn't do it submit correctly. Asking again :). Purchased the complete kit this past year from ya'll, 400/600ah kit. Wired exactly as the guide. Would it be harmful to the batteries or charge controller if the Solar array Isolator was left in the "ON" position, but the main battery disconnect was in the "OFF"? Just noticed I did this when checking on my Van in storage. It works fine when powering on and updating my victron app/equipment. Curious if it could damage the controllers or batteries. Seeing as it goes back to the lynx, I'm imagining no?.. but unsure of how the victron 100/30 charge controller functions when not having battery power but hot PV wires
The solar isolator should indeed always be turned off before the master disconnect switch. If there were damage, it would be to the charge controller. Damage is unlikely because the Victron Charge controller is very well built, but it's still possible; so be sure to turn the solar isolator off before turning the master switch off.
Quick question! I am building my solar setup. Our van is only used part time for adventuring so sometimes it sits for extended periods. I was wondering if my Renogy DC-DC MPPT 30amp (p/n: DCC30S)combo could charge my auxiliary house batteries and my starter batteries if I wired in a 1, 2, 1+2 Blue Sea switch. My thought was to wire the house on 1, starter batteries on 2, so if I switched it to 1+2 while it sits not in use, would all of it get charged? Then switch back to 1 when driving/camping. I was hoping the solar could be my battery tender when the van isn’t in use. Thank you!
I'm not really familiar with that Renogy charger, so I can't say. Your starter battery shouldn't have any problems staying charged as long as the battery is good. If your starter battery is going flat after only a few months, maybe it's time for a replacement?
It doesn’t go flat, but I have the 7.3L diesel engine, and just seems a bit weak when starting after it’s been sitting a few weeks. The batteries are only a few months old, but the van has always been like that. In your opinion, would that 1, 2, 1+2 switch work as I’m thinking it would though? Thank you for your response. I really do value your opinion. I’ll do some more digging, and get in touch with Renogy.
I greatly appreciate the videos and information you provide. I have been trying to purchase a system from you but have a few questions (as anyone would) and there is no way to communicate with anyone at your facility. I have left three emails and have had no response. There is no phone number on your site to reach anyone at your business. If you are going to grow your business I would suggest you addressed this. Not too many people are going to speed $10,000.00 plus if they can not talk to anyone before the purchase.
Two things: 1: We have not had a support ticket go unanswered since we started our shop. If you are asking your questions as a comment on a blog post or RUclips channel, I don't always get to those. If you are submitting an order ticket through shop.explorist.life/support and are not getting a response, our response is likely going to your spam folder because those are indeed answered 100% of the time. A search for 'Albert Hull' yields no results in our emails, but perhaps you're using an alias here on RUclips. 2: We do not have a public phone number because we are a small team and simply can't spend all day on the phone AND still make these videos for you. When we DID have phone consulting, most of the questions asked needed an answer with a link to a product/tutorial/etc and it's simply better if we limit our support to email support so we can do just that. Saying that... please submit an order ticket through shop.explorist.life/support with whatever purchase questions you have and we will get back to you.
The emails I sent to your email.to your email. I did not submit a ticket. Is that the way to ask you questions about an order? Name the emails to you were Jack Hull
Yeah, so I do actually have two emails from you and I responded to both of them but they both bounced back as undeliverable to the email address outlook_25D7047F2536C31C@outlook.com which looks like some kind of privacy alias that doesn't allow emails? Not sure what's going on there... But yes... Submitting an order ticket at shop.explorist.life/support is the best way to get your order questions answered as you can put in your email you want us to reply to so there are fewer weird glitches like that. At any rate... here were your questions and my replies: Jack: 1/11/23 12:59PM I am interested in purchasing your Ford Transit 540 AH wiring system but I have a different plan for solar panels. I am interested in the 200 W panels. Can I purchase your system, except for the solar panels? Nate: 1/11/23 2:28PM You should just be able to add the full kit to your cart and then delete whatever you like, and then re-add whatever solar charging setup suits your fancy. Jack 1/12/23 10:27AM I am interested in your project kit/wiring kit for 600 Ah (2 Battbeborn 270 batteries) and 800 W of Solar (4-200 Watt solar panels). In your opinion are the Rich Solar panels are good as the Renogy panels? Nate 1/12/23 10:31AM Let me put it this way... If I thought the Renogy panels were better, I'd sell those instead. 🙂 They are both good panels.
Yo Explorists! You guys are probably no strangers to the multiple “victron” groups on Facebook and I wanted to share something with you Lots of people follow your wiring diagrams (after purchasing of course) for wire up Victron inverter systems and something continues to show up in the group feeds with issues using ferrules From what I’ve seen, most of your 3kva installs use a marine grade 10/3 romex multistrand wire, which works if people plan to always plug in to a 30 amp shore outlet. But with the multiplus’ being capable of 50a (shore) some people go for the 6/3 OR 6/4 SOOW (which I prefer for all installs). What continues to come up is the confusion with the wire ferrules used in your diagrams. They have little blue caps on them. People are buying 6awg soow and are trying to cram this in to the 10awg ferrules. Now I personally haven’t seen 6awg ferrules with “caps”, only the aluminum cylinder style. Is this something you coul maybe make a short video about (with all your expertise😉)? I would have sent an email Instead but I guess I couldn’t navigate your site well enough Always watching🤙🏼 Thanks
Yeah, I've seen that. I don't know what the issue is, though. We personally use the insulated Ferrules on the 6/3 wire and they work just fine. We do include 6ga with our kits with 6/3 soow. Trying to cram 10ga wire into a 6ga ferrule will obviously not fit. I know I saw one guy who trimmed off the end of the ferrule, for some reason, which will obviously make them too short.
So, like this post in particular... facebook.com/groups/3008836042495631/posts/5976181625761043/ The guy trimmed off the end of ferrule and then said he's having issues with it not being long enough. Like, yes... that action would indeed give that effect. Perhaps stripping back enough insulation and then not chopping the ferrule down is the answer here.
You said to top off your battery bank before you put your camper in storage. My understanding is for lead acid this is true. For lithium My understanding is leave them from 30% to 70@????
Charge your batteries to the manufacturers recommendation before storing. 100% in the case of Battle Born Batteries like I recommend on this channel, but consult your user manual or contact your manufacturer for other brands/types of batteries.
@@EXPLORISTlife I’m a little late to the game here, but I have a somewhat related question. You said it was okay to just keep the system up and running with all the loads shut off when in long-term storage, but battleborn recommends NOT charging in cold temps (below freezing I believe). Thoughts? BTW, thanks so much for all the great info you put out there. It’s been super helpful to me and countless others.
No one ever talks about the number of strands in their conductors. Even if they do talk about wire gauge, I have never seen them discuss how many strands they use in that wire.
I might add, have a fuse inline on every single system, make sure all the components used in the separate charging systems are compatible with all the other components and that no two charging systems are on at the same time. Do all your research, I've seen so many poor examples of DIY lithium conversions & installs on RUclips that it worries me, I know it's not my rig but doing it for someone else takes on a whole lot of liability, these lithium batteries are not toys.
Yes, the video was helpful. Had our system now for 3 months and I’m, umm obsessed with the fact we’re able to power with the sun. Constantly looking at it. Thanks for your schematics and videos. Very much appreciated. P.S. Loving both your shirts.
Hey Danielle Little, No problem! Glad its helpful! :)
Can you consider just turning off the Disconnect Switch adequate for "disconnecting for storage" after charging battery?
Thanks guys!
These Great Tips are Highly Appreciated!
Glad you like them! Thanks for watching!
Store your lithum batteries at 50% I like dielectric grease on my larger connections but maybe that's bad?? Also, use a thermal camera and stress test your setup with a heavy load (i brew coffee). Hot spots are lost power and may suggest a bolt tightening or increase wire gauge needed
Each battery manufacturer has its own storage recommendations, and most are well above 50%, so the better recommendation there is: store your batteries according to manufacturer recommendations.
@@EXPLORISTlife That would be the better advice.
Lead acids love to be full and kept that way... lithium hate a full charge and degrade rapidly if kept near 100%.
(For no citable reason, I'd suggest 60 or 65% and maybe setting my controller to treat that as full if using the panels for extended storage.)
Again... follow manufacturers recommendations. Battle Born, for example, recommends charging to 100% and then disconnecting: battlebornbatteries.com/faq-how-to-winterize-your-batteries/
@@EXPLORISTlife . Wow. AIUI... Li-ion dendritic occurrence is an irreversible result of high capacity state duration... it's a function of the current chemistry. And it's a terminal 'disease' of same.
If your sponsor Battle Born has a solution... I should think it would be either known, or widely flouted in their marketing. Yes?
Perhaps you should chat with Battle Born about that? They wouldn't make that recommendation AND warranty their batteries for 10 years at the same time if they felt it detrimental, I'm sure.
If you have a recessed terminal is it ok to use a copper spacer between the lug and the terminal.
I hope you see this question. Because I’m confused! lol!
I’m moving some electrical stuff in my van and I need to know if you have to run wiring above or is it okay to run it lower? Like below the flooring??
Wish I could show you a picture but can’t do that here. lol I’m moving the AC outlet wiring. Thank you so much 😊
Was wondering if you have any suggestions on how to ground my electrical system to and all aluminum trailer. I’m converting an all aluminum cargo trailer into a camper. Using a Bluetti AC 300 as my solar system. I have 30 amp shore power. I have the bluetti and shore power coming into a transfer switch. Not sure how to ground the progressive dynamics distribution panel with aluminum frame. Should I run separate grounds, one for ac and one for 12v, to the trailers distribution box or to the axles? Thanks
Great tips! On the washer tip, I did recently hear that in the rare event where your frame of your trailer is aluminum, when grounding your system, you should probably put a stainless steel washer between the copper lug and aluminum frame to prevent degradation of the aluminum. Thoughts?
Interesting
You would be better off using a tinned copper lug as the tin acts like a galvanic bridge. If that is not an option, in HV applications we use a bi-metallic plate (google may reveal one for applications like this…not sure). Stainless is not a great conductor and would heat the interface like a standard washer as described in the video.
Stainless is the appropriate bolt and washer for that application because it is not reactive with either metal, but you should either use anti-seize for the nut or find a silicon bronze nut to avoid galling.
@@tjmarrinan thank you sounds logical
By the way Nate I've been meaning to tell you nice hair ‼️ Mine is very similar, I've been wearing it that way for quite a number of years. Thanks again for all your videos you have helped me immensely. I didn't even think about about the washers. I'm notorious for doing that. But it sure sounds logical not too
Hey Vince Badovinatz, No problem! Glad it helped! :)
Thank you!
You're welcome!
You made a couple of points I've neglected which shows ya'll have been down in the ditches personally. Great channel and I do refer it to friends who ask me about fulltiming. It seems as our gooberment continues to make us poorer there are more and more peeps wantin' to explore-rrrr. ;-)
Hey HuangXingQing, Thanks so much! Cheers!
Always enjoy your videos for several years. I was wondering if you will be doing episodes on the next stages of your van build? I’m sure the construction component would be very interesting. Thanks.
Of course!
We are just getting to a point where these projects take longer than a week, so to keep up with a once a week schedule, we've got to spread them out with these Shorter videos.
I’m expanding and upgrading my battery bank on my boat. In that case I have to move the battery to another place, in that case the battery switch will be about 1 to 2m from the battery bank. I was wondering if this matters or do I have to move the battery switch as well?
That shouldn't matter.
agree on loose connections after cracking everything pretty tight (I thought) damaged a battery.
@gattaca: Every reputable battery manufacture provides a torque spec for their battery terminals. RTFM and don’t exceed this spec and you won’t damage the battery. A similar comment can be made for high quality components; e. g., bus bars, battery switches, BMS connection’s, etc.
Since many fasteners used to connect to components are SS, and SS has a tendency to gall, we put conductive anti-seize on these threaded joints.
Finally, barring a manufacturers’ torque spec, a general rule is that after the lock washer has been fully compressed, if you apply any additional torque, you are just showing off,
I don't know if my previous comment needed approval or if I didn't do it submit correctly. Asking again :). Purchased the complete kit this past year from ya'll, 400/600ah kit. Wired exactly as the guide. Would it be harmful to the batteries or charge controller if the Solar array Isolator was left in the "ON" position, but the main battery disconnect was in the "OFF"? Just noticed I did this when checking on my Van in storage. It works fine when powering on and updating my victron app/equipment. Curious if it could damage the controllers or batteries. Seeing as it goes back to the lynx, I'm imagining no?.. but unsure of how the victron 100/30 charge controller functions when not having battery power but hot PV wires
The solar isolator should indeed always be turned off before the master disconnect switch. If there were damage, it would be to the charge controller. Damage is unlikely because the Victron Charge controller is very well built, but it's still possible; so be sure to turn the solar isolator off before turning the master switch off.
@@EXPLORISTlife Thanks for the reply :)
Well said.
Quick question! I am building my solar setup. Our van is only used part time for adventuring so sometimes it sits for extended periods. I was wondering if my Renogy DC-DC MPPT 30amp (p/n: DCC30S)combo could charge my auxiliary house batteries and my starter batteries if I wired in a 1, 2, 1+2 Blue Sea switch. My thought was to wire the house on 1, starter batteries on 2, so if I switched it to 1+2 while it sits not in use, would all of it get charged? Then switch back to 1 when driving/camping. I was hoping the solar could be my battery tender when the van isn’t in use. Thank you!
I'm not really familiar with that Renogy charger, so I can't say. Your starter battery shouldn't have any problems staying charged as long as the battery is good. If your starter battery is going flat after only a few months, maybe it's time for a replacement?
It doesn’t go flat, but I have the 7.3L diesel engine, and just seems a bit weak when starting after it’s been sitting a few weeks. The batteries are only a few months old, but the van has always been like that. In your opinion, would that 1, 2, 1+2 switch work as I’m thinking it would though?
Thank you for your response. I really do value your opinion. I’ll do some more digging, and get in touch with Renogy.
Cool.
I greatly appreciate the videos and information you provide. I have been trying to purchase a system from you but have a few questions (as anyone would) and there is no way to communicate with anyone at your facility. I have left three emails and have had no response. There is no phone number on your site to reach anyone at your business. If you are going to grow your business I would suggest you addressed this. Not too many people are going to speed $10,000.00 plus if they can not talk to anyone before the purchase.
Two things:
1: We have not had a support ticket go unanswered since we started our shop. If you are asking your questions as a comment on a blog post or RUclips channel, I don't always get to those. If you are submitting an order ticket through shop.explorist.life/support and are not getting a response, our response is likely going to your spam folder because those are indeed answered 100% of the time.
A search for 'Albert Hull' yields no results in our emails, but perhaps you're using an alias here on RUclips.
2: We do not have a public phone number because we are a small team and simply can't spend all day on the phone AND still make these videos for you. When we DID have phone consulting, most of the questions asked needed an answer with a link to a product/tutorial/etc and it's simply better if we limit our support to email support so we can do just that.
Saying that... please submit an order ticket through shop.explorist.life/support with whatever purchase questions you have and we will get back to you.
The emails I sent to your email.to your email. I did not submit a ticket. Is that the way to ask you questions about an order? Name the emails to you were Jack Hull
The two orders I made to you for wire diagram and diagram for the 80/20 box were under Jack Hull
Yeah, so I do actually have two emails from you and I responded to both of them but they both bounced back as undeliverable to the email address outlook_25D7047F2536C31C@outlook.com which looks like some kind of privacy alias that doesn't allow emails? Not sure what's going on there...
But yes... Submitting an order ticket at shop.explorist.life/support is the best way to get your order questions answered as you can put in your email you want us to reply to so there are fewer weird glitches like that.
At any rate... here were your questions and my replies:
Jack: 1/11/23 12:59PM
I am interested in purchasing your Ford Transit 540 AH wiring system but I have a different plan for solar panels. I am interested in the 200 W panels. Can I purchase your system, except for the solar panels?
Nate: 1/11/23 2:28PM
You should just be able to add the full kit to your cart and then delete whatever you like, and then re-add whatever solar charging setup suits your fancy.
Jack 1/12/23 10:27AM
I am interested in your project kit/wiring kit for 600 Ah (2 Battbeborn 270 batteries) and 800 W of Solar (4-200 Watt solar panels). In your opinion are the Rich Solar panels are good as the Renogy panels?
Nate 1/12/23 10:31AM
Let me put it this way... If I thought the Renogy panels were better, I'd sell those instead. 🙂 They are both good panels.
Yo Explorists!
You guys are probably no strangers to the multiple “victron” groups on Facebook and I wanted to share something with you
Lots of people follow your wiring diagrams (after purchasing of course) for wire up Victron inverter systems and something continues to show up in the group feeds with issues using ferrules
From what I’ve seen, most of your 3kva installs use a marine grade 10/3 romex multistrand wire, which works if people plan to always plug in to a 30 amp shore outlet. But with the multiplus’ being capable of 50a (shore) some people go for the 6/3 OR 6/4 SOOW (which I prefer for all installs). What continues to come up is the confusion with the wire ferrules used in your diagrams. They have little blue caps on them. People are buying 6awg soow and are trying to cram this in to the 10awg ferrules. Now I personally haven’t seen 6awg ferrules with “caps”, only the aluminum cylinder style.
Is this something you coul maybe make a short video about (with all your expertise😉)?
I would have sent an email Instead but I guess I couldn’t navigate your site well enough
Always watching🤙🏼
Thanks
Yeah, I've seen that. I don't know what the issue is, though. We personally use the insulated Ferrules on the 6/3 wire and they work just fine. We do include 6ga with our kits with 6/3 soow. Trying to cram 10ga wire into a 6ga ferrule will obviously not fit.
I know I saw one guy who trimmed off the end of the ferrule, for some reason, which will obviously make them too short.
See any of the videos on our full installs to see them in use: Full Installs: ruclips.net/p/PLmvhcyi4n0TUU8FUc6LE38TBkdSLjdw_5
So, like this post in particular... facebook.com/groups/3008836042495631/posts/5976181625761043/
The guy trimmed off the end of ferrule and then said he's having issues with it not being long enough. Like, yes... that action would indeed give that effect. Perhaps stripping back enough insulation and then not chopping the ferrule down is the answer here.
You said to top off your battery bank before you put your camper in storage. My understanding is for lead acid this is true. For lithium My understanding is leave them from 30% to 70@????
Charge your batteries to the manufacturers recommendation before storing. 100% in the case of Battle Born Batteries like I recommend on this channel, but consult your user manual or contact your manufacturer for other brands/types of batteries.
@@EXPLORISTlife I’m a little late to the game here, but I have a somewhat related question. You said it was okay to just keep the system up and running with all the loads shut off when in long-term storage, but battleborn recommends NOT charging in cold temps (below freezing I believe). Thoughts? BTW, thanks so much for all the great info you put out there. It’s been super helpful to me and countless others.
No one ever talks about the number of strands in their conductors. Even if they do talk about wire gauge, I have never seen them discuss how many strands they use in that wire.
I might add, have a fuse inline on every single system, make sure all the components used in the separate charging systems are compatible with all the other components and that no two charging systems are on at the same time.
Do all your research, I've seen so many poor examples of DIY lithium conversions & installs on RUclips that it worries me, I know it's not my rig but doing it for someone else takes on a whole lot of liability, these lithium batteries are not toys.