I’ve been a HGV mechanic for nearly 17 years. You can always tell a good sparky because they make things look easy. Watching this video is like watching a master at work. The way you routed those wires, especially the ceiling fan. I thought Greg knows what he’s doing. Anyone that has worked on vehicles knows that the “easy or 5 min jobs” take the longest and are the most infuriating. I really liked this video. It’s very informative. You’ve earned a new subscriber.
Maybe you can help me with my concern of this setup? If you're going to have a huge battery bank constantly drawing on your alternator, won't it overheat and cut out? Then all of your electrics will drain the starter battery until the alternator cools enough to cut back in. If your starter battery drops too low too often you'll be constantly replacing it, not to mention replacing the alternator sooner as well. I get the advantage of being able to top up batteries on long drives if they're getting low, so maybe shield them and leave them disconnected in the box to connect when needed like during whole weeks of overcast days when the solar hasn't been charging as much?
So glad you showed the fuel tank located near the battery box. A strong warning to all that you need to be careful about drilling access holes. Check and double check that you are not going to be close to anything that could be damaged if you drill carelessly. I would agree with you that it is safer to remove items well out of harms way and follow all the rules of safety. Far too many vlogs on RUclips are just hair breadths away from disaster and injury. Bravo for showing us how to do it and explaining it. A trick to find out where rear cable access might be found is to follow official Tow Bar installation instructions. They will always try and use the Manufacturer's access points to the shell.
@@GregVirgoe I have a question. You did a 30A DC/DC charger but I was wondering if it is possible to do TWO 30A DC/DC chargers for a total of 60A? Because with only one 30A charger it would take over 3 hours of running the engine to charge up one 100Ah battery. That's a bit slow for winter camping where solar is at a minimum and the engine is the only real power source. You think this is possible?
Another great video. Thank you (and Lou's hand that made a couple guest appearances). I had half a dozen notifications of videos in my RUclips subscriptions today and, as always, I went for yours first as you make things so easy to understand with your clear explanations.
I know it’s a busy day on Sunday for videos because RUclips tells us that’s when most of our viewers are online. So I thank you for putting me first. That means a lot 😊
As usual, great instruction and motivation. One suggestion: Add a dead 1.5 mm wire to every length of conduit to use as a pull wire in the future. You never know what you might want to add in years to come. 👍😀
Thanks Greg for your easy to follow instructions. I am in Australia and just got my 1982 Toyota Coaster bus registered and know nothing about solar, Battery requirements or any other DC wirering but following you videos has been a great help and easy to understand.
I just can't get my head around electrics and running cables and what's needed and where. I feel overwhelmed just watching you do it, never mind actually doing it myself!
Started our build at the beginning of summer, we are now about a month away from completion. I've done it all "The Greg Virgoe Way"..thank you so much Greg.
The absolute best tutorials on van conversion. Thanks Greg. I’m working on my sprinter and am utilizing every single video you have posted. You have sincerely made my life and I’m sure the lives of all do it yourselfers much easier. Thanks again for a job well done!!!!!!!!! K / Oklahoma
Yet another proper sound video Greg my van build going so much better for watching your channel m8 keep them coming by the way just come off the back of 2 courses to do with work and found myself thinking these would be so much better if Greg was the tutor your are born to teach Greg 😊😊
How convenient that you are in the middle of a Ducato build. I've just bought a 2014 L4H3 Boxer last week for a campervan conversion and I will be following every step of your build and will likely copy a lot of your tips and ideas. Thank you for these videos.
I’m really pleased they are helping to motivate you. It’s a lot of work but if you break it down into bite size jobs with little goals it’s less daunting. Good luck 😉
I've seen a lot of builds with the cable just sitting in the voids. Apart from the possible short hazard, Conduit also makes it much easier to add new circuits if you have to. Well worth £10-15 up front (and you saved a lot more on the cable!)
Hello Greg Love your videos electric very informative and practical and the sizing for the cables and the materials used and tools your a top man for one man Greg 🔝😎🍻
Really enjoying all your Teaching Videos Greg....almost hypnotic.....Picking up some great tips along the way. You have a very enjoyable style !! Just mapping out my Vivaro Plan.
Hey Greg your video have always been a huge help and go to for help and ideas. Keep up the great work. All the best with the new channel. I have subscribed 😁
Another great video Greg. Might be worth mentioning that some of these Peugeot, Fiat, Citroen vans have a factory fitted converters electrical panel behind the plastic cover at the bottom of the drivers door pillar near the handbrake. If fitted it has a battery connection already supplied.
Some of the newer ones do but sadly most me does not have anything there large enough to connect a battery charger to. The route from drivers B pillar to my battery location would also be difficult. But it may benefit others 👍🏼😊
Some builds have the Converter upgraded harness, some don't, but realising where the manufacturer places these upgrades gives a clue as to where you might be able run a new harness within the shell.
UK is the only country in Europe that uses rigid copper wire for the household. I lived and worked in 4 European countries and all of them use fire retardant tubbing also flex wires 3x monophase fire retardant. It Is great that you recommend this type of wiring, very true it tends to last way longer than the rigid ones . Incredible videos, as usual, looking forward to seeing this van build.
That's not true. In germany house installations are done with solid copper core wires. When a wire is installed in a fixed position you use solid core, when the cable is used somewhere where it can move you use flex wires.
Welcome back Greg, thanks for such a clear explanation for the cabling and how to connect the dc2dc (haven't seen that before). I love the idea of two blade connectors.
14:39 it’s been 5 months since you’ve done anything on this build By subscribing to your channel we show our respect for your knowledge on this subject . I too have started a build on a fiat ducato maxi around the same time as yourself And was looking forward to tapping into your knowledge. Honestly think it’s time you gave your subscribers an update at least. All the best hopefully see you on the road sometime. Dave
Thanks Greg. Looking forward to seeing the next video. Plan is to start on my Boxer conversion in the new year, so please keep these coming, because your giving me so much needed info. 👍🏻
Thank you for this planning to get a Mercedes Vito Van to convert into a camper soon so invaluable information thank you for sharing clear instructional videos keep up the good work.
Greg, watched all your vids, I'm actually doing a steel boat build in Serbia, but many principles are the same. Learning lots from you, PS, thanks for not selling out to corporate. Regards, Mick Mc
The two are almost identical when it comes to off grid living and electrics. I always promote the products that I have researched and bought myself. Unless it’s of value to my viewers I won’t promote it. Thank you 🙏🏼😊
Once again a great video with top class info. Just starting my Peugeot Boxer build (new to all this) my brain was starting to hurt with electrics - now I can relax. Thanks.
See as soon as yo9u said "that needs a 10mm" that would be the day done for me. I probably wouldn't find it until the following Tuesday or something lol. Glad to see the project going on strong.
Just bought a MWB boxer and in the early stages of our first conversion. We stumbled across this series wondering what to do next after finishing sorting all the metal work. This series is going to be very helpful, looks like we will be converting along with you. You're officially our van build dad!
Guys I've just brought a fiat Ducato also my first camper build Greg you make it look so easy I've watched all your Ducato videos hopefully follow your build already starting to panic keep up the good work
it is amazing how similar your van is to my promaster is in the states, I put a relay in to the 12 volt power source in the rear, to cut the house batteries from the van battery'. great videos keep up the good work.
Great to see you back on this van build Greg, another video full of quality information for us, thank you. I have a campervan, it's an old conversion by EMC Campers, a basic conversion, with just a simple stove and rock and roll bed. However after looking at most of your videos, I now plan on installing electrics and a sink/ hob unit, so thank you so much !
Hi Greg, I have been watching your vlogs for a while and as everyone says, clear and concise information. I have a Fiat Ducato L3H2 that I plan to convert over the winter and your vlogs will be helping me along the journey as a point of reference. Thank you and keep up the excellent work.....ps great camera work by Mrs.Virgoe
Probably the most informative , helpful , easy to follow and actually engaging "how to guide" iv watched. And iv watched more than i care to admit. Good on ya Greg and thanks for helping me on my camper electrical system... Regards Jim
Entertaining and informative as usual. Only thing I can add is definitely works better to fit two fuse box's one each side of the van. Way less cable runs.
Greg, all your videos have been so helpful. i have just bougnht a van to do up and its also a fiat ducato so all of this is perfect. its all so detailed and super useful for someone who is starting a new project like this. thanks for all your video thus far and i look forward to watching more
Excellent video, I'm just about to buy a van to convert into the family camper, I like that you don't talk a load of pony, you get straight to the point, I'll be following you religiously, please keep the kids coming and prepare for some questions when I start, all the best Mark 👍
Another great video guys. It's the jobs like this that take time and although you get the benefit when the van is complete, you don't get to see the work that's gone into it as its hidden away. Looking forward to the next one.
Bought my first camper, stripped it all down and I'm now on to electrics so this has been a great help, thanks for taking the time to go through it all 👍
Thanks Greg. After having my wiring Wolfcraft loom stolen, when my caravan was robbed, I shall wire the campletely gutted T2 with your help (especially sizing cable)
As always, such a great video, and really love that you let us in on those moments where you show your weird side (ie crimped connection reaction). Perfectly laid out and edited video. I do a few things that add to you method, might be overkill. 1. I add grommet and/or edge guarding to the sharp edges where the conduit comes through, doubly ensuring protection of the system, especially if it gets squeezed. 2. I add labeling at all entrances and exits of 120vac (here in the US) as well as use orange colored extra rugged conduit. This is mostly for emergency responders in a just in case situation. The us hasn’t codified totally a color scheme so i went with the color my manufacturer uses for their EV in higher than 48v situations, in this case orange. I also use labels for the solar lines since they are always live even though it’s at non lethal voltages.
Another super clear video Greg. Just like to highlight how important it is to fit the 40A as close to the battery terminal as possible, just as you have shown. This prevents the cable from burning in case of a short circuit further down the line.
Would you mind explaining a bit more on what you mean here about putting the blade fuse holder near the leisure batteries, and putting the 40A (fuse?) near to the main battery?
@@junglegoose4648 Fuses are there to protect the cable from burning, in case of a short. So one side of the cable is protected but the other side is not. So placing the fuse as close as possible to the battery, means the unprotected part of the cable is as short as possible. (less likely to be damaged).
@@junglegoose4648 fuses are to protect the cable from overcurrent situation so the fuses need to be fitted close to the battery as possible then you can run your cable to wherever you want to fit your device.
You are the absolute best teacher, Greg!!! I love your videos. Thank you for the incredible knowledge you put out to us all the time, for years. I trust you because you are a certified electrical engineer in the UK so you know your codes and safety protocols. Beautiful work. Thank you!
Missed these Greg, got excited because starting to think about ours now , I got lost 🙈, shortly after the hole in the battery box 😮, I’ll watch it another 100 times 😂 hhhheeeeellllpppp 🤣 x
Thanks Greg. I have fitted fuse boards to both sides of my conversion in the top cupboards centrally. It's surprising how many cable runs one needs. Keep them coming, please.
Great video Greg as usual. Can't wait for the next one where you will be insulating the van as mine is condensation terribly at the moment due to painted metal surfaces. Good luck and best wishes to you Greg.
I've been watching your builds for a while and love your simple accurate explanations. Why do you use a negative between the batteries, could you not use the van chassis?
Great as always Greg ! I am at this stage of running cables & kind of bit lost ... but your videos help a lot to have a kind of vision of this global nightmare 🤣😂 All the best to you !!!
Perfect Greg... absolutely perfect. You've just saved me a few quid on cable. I dont know what I didn't think of locating the fuse box to the middle of the van (mines an L3) makes fishing cables through flexy conduit alot easier too with shorter runs. I'm doing a MEGA order next week to continue the build. That's so tidy aswell routing the DC DC charger cable underneath the van and again if there is any problems makes it accessible. I'll be picking your brains on solar on the solar video if thats ok as I'm still unsure what to order in terms of panels and want to go LITHIUM with my batteries. Thank you once again. Your a top mam and have helped 1000's I'm sure. 🙏🏻💚🙏🏻
I’m really glad this one helped you. Please do ask away I’ll be happy to help you if I can. Renogy have a fantastic deal on two 100Ah lithiums from their new core range for only £600 that’s amazing value for 200Ah of lithium from a brand leader.
@@iainhenderson8751 it would help but it needs more solar. It’s ok having a huge battery bank but you need to be able to recharge it. I wouldn’t go gas free if I had to run my van all the time to recharge the batteries that false economy.
Hi Greg, me again, I've come across a potential problem. If I'm running 2 Victron DC-DC 12/30 chargers...am i right in thinking that the voltage drop and amperage pulled (75a) potentially is gonna be too much for the 16mm2 cables running to the back from the starter battery. I've used the volt drop calculator on 12v planet and it says over a 6m run (approximately) the percentage volt drop is 1.13v or 8.9% of 12.6v So would we be better to go for 35mm² or even 50mm² just to account for the bolt drop?
Actually volt drop shouldn't come into it the minimum Input voltage for the Victron 12/30 is 10v so even with 25mm² cable the amperage would be fine with 2 running in parallel producing near 75amps. 25mm² cable Nominal Voltage 12.6v Current Draw 75a One way circuit length 8m (airing on the safe side length wise) Voltage drop 7.33% (0.924volts) I love maths 🤦🏻♂️.
Great video Greg keep up the good work, I've just started my van build
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I enjoy watching your videos, I've already learned a lot. I have a Fiat Ducato. Camper belongs to Fleurette. I installed a Vitron Multiplus myself and routed the power supply that was already present to the multiplus. Has been working for a few months. At one point I was standing at a camper place with electricity, I heard a bang or a lamp burst. After that everything still works. But when the engine is running, no voltage is supplied to the Multiplus. Also have a BMS. But when the engine is running, the refrigerator runs on 12 volts. I saw in this video that you connect the power supply for the camper with a fuse, but not a Cytrix. I've looked several times to see if I saw a link to support your channel, but I don't see it.
You should find any product links in the video descriptions. Please look at my recent wiring video as that has all the products in the description here is a link for you 12v Electrics for Off-Grid Campervan - Fiat Ducato Budget Build Ep12 ruclips.net/video/xCw7eARJKOg/видео.html
Great detail as always perfect timing I have a 25 ft fiat ducato low loader to convert so looking forward to the rest of your conversion videos , thankyou wondering if you ever did write a book ?
Greg, first I would like to thank you for your videos, you have inspired me to have a campervan.( I have spent an entire day in bed when I was following the first series of conversion videos, so educational ) My question is related to the black wire that you are running from your main battery to the DCDC converter, since the negative pole of your main battery is connected to the chassis of the vehicle, you could use the the chassis as your "black wire" . Like this you do not need the entire length of the black wire. If it is wired like that actually you can save a lot of black wire ( negative of the 12V ) since you have the vehicle chassis almost everywhere and you just need a short wire ( and maybe a rivnut ) . What would be the advantages and disadvantages of wiring the 12V electronics like that. If there would be a campervan conversion academy you would be the dean!
I prefer to wire it as an "isolated" 12v leisure side and not use the chassis for negative paths. This will avoid any poor ground connections infuture and alleviate any possible extra resistance, volt drop and loss of connections, making future trouble shooting also easier and avoiding any interference with the auto eletrics too. Hope that helps. I'm sure there are many people that will confirm their "non-isolated" system works ok but this is my preference. :D
Hi Greg, great stuff as usual...You have mentioned that you are going to do the insulation next. Have you considered using a product called Tyvek as a vapour permeable barrier. It is used extensively in the pitched roofing industry it is impervious from one surface but breathable from the other. Keep up the brilliant work. Cheers
No, because that is not what we need here. The reason building membranes are breathable is because timbers need to be ventilated to stop them rotting. In our van we need a 100% totally impervious barrier in both directions and the only material that will do that is foil. You cannot compare house building techniques with a steel van. Two very different applications 😊👍🏼
You did a GOOD JOB! I like your Van. I have a question for you; I need to insulate my Aluminium box truck of my FORD E-450 2003. The beams underneat are aluminium but they are a little a bit rusted. I wanted to protect them by adding R15 Insulation foam underit. and then put the coolant pipe and water pipes there. I want to know how to do that and protect that insulation and water pipes from snow, salt, dust etc?
3:00 Greg, Just so others understand, please make sure that you also use fuses the trunking cable at the battery itself as well. The fuses need to protect the cable, not the device! That is why you always size the fuses to the max the cable will support or less than that number. That way if a short happens, the fuse will burn out before the cable does and starts a fire. Safety first. Just remember that if a car/van/truck starts on fire, its almost guaranteed that it will be destroyed by the amount of flammable and toxic material in there. Get job. 🤠👍 Another thing is that you should always use at least the split loom tubing on any fixed cable in a moving car. And secure the cabling along the route. Ideally use a wire tie around the object you want to secure it to and then another wire tie around the tubing and through the first. That way the cable doesn't actually lay on the rigid part and rub. I have seen many rub outs of wires from either not being secure or secured directly to the item as the cable moves all the time. Conduit or split loom tubing really helps mitigate that issue for sure.
Hi ..some have used the chassis for the negative cable which goes to the leisure battery and the positive cable from the van battery to supply the split charger then to the positive side of the leisure battery.
Greetings from Brazil! Your videos are awesome and so inspiring! I built my Iveco Maxi Furgone based on your amazing job! Thank you very much! Watching this video a question come up: Why did you choose pass an entirely new negative cable to connect to the battery, instead of connecting directly into the chassis that is already negative? Thank you so much! My best wishes! Lucas Massena
Hi Greg. Can’t wait for the next video. How do you vapour barrier around the point where the cables that are buried in the insulation come through it? I’ve taken out all the cables in favour of putting them between the ply liner and the already vp’d insulation, but I’d prefer to do it your way.
Hi Greg, these are really helpful videos, and I'm sure many people enjoy your video just like I did. One question, in the video 8:20' why are we using a 40 amp fuse in a 30amp DC to DC charger? I thought the fuse needed to be smaller so it would blow first. (PS, this might be a silly question as I don't have any background knowledge of electrical ... thanks, looking forward to hearing from you or anyone who could help me understand this.
Hey Greg.....your videos are so professional, you have been a point of reference for so many of us DIY converters, you manage to be informative and entertaining which most mainstream TV can't pull off! Wee question for you, do you know of any decent van build forums that I could join?.....I have a Transit Custom and it would be invaluable to bounce some ideas off other owners.... Keep the videos coming Greg👍👍👍
Yes, I had a few "fat shaming" comments on previous videos so i've been back down the gym 3-4 times a week to get back into shape, to be fair i have missed it so needed the kick up the arse to do something about it. LOL
Hello Greg We are loving your videos, I am following them for my own MWB van conversion. It might seem dumb but am I right in thinking you use the 2.5 black rubber cable for all your connections from the blade fuse holder to the 12 volt items on your wiring plan marked as 1.5 mm cable? I also noticed that the cables for the bed head lights go back to where the main power cables are coming in and not back to the kitchen blade fuse holder. Is this because your going to have a 2nd blade fuse holder down in the garage space? I am just trying make sure I get it right first time. All the best Steve & Anita Wishing you happy traveling
Really enjoying watching your series on self builds! I have a mobile dog wash business from a Peugeot Boxer van lol I’d like your thoughts on the best water sealant many thanks for your videos and any help would be much appreciated!
Sika do a bathroom sealant which is brilliant for water www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265783645638?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=2ov-tsPQQ2y&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=IAwKHBzwQ6K&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Hi Greg we are in the first stages of converting a MK7 transit minibus and we have 2 batteries under the drivers seat which one woulkd be the best to use to attach to the leisure battery when we decide which to use (lithium etc),i have been told that one is a starter battery and the other is an auxillary battery ?...Thanks and love the videos as they are brilliant for novices like us.
Hi Greg, thanks as always for a great video with lots of helpful tips and tricks. You mentioned at the end of the video insulation and since this, along with condensation is your area of expertise I wonder if you had any thoughts on spray cork. Apparently it’s lightweight, thin, water and fire resistant, has great thermal/acoustic properties and needs no vapour barrier. I know your van is themed as a budget build and cork is expensive but I’m looking to live in my van so keeping temperature regulated and water/mold free is essential. There’s a great demo video called ‘What is Cork Sol?’ by the RUclipsr Trowel Talk with lots of info. In your previous video you discussed the dew point and I wondered how that would sit with cork?
Ok so I could write a paragraph about why it’s not a viable option but let’s just give you the facts. It has a thermal conductivity of 0.04 w/mk so only 10% better than any wool type loft insulation ie mineral wool, recycled plastic bottle insulation etc. it typically comes in 10mm thick sheets so you would need at least 9 layers to equal one application of 100mm loft insulation. That would cost you £100m2 and would weigh a ton. Stick to the conventional and best materials. PIR, closed cell foam and recycled plastic bottle loft insulation by Diall. You won’t go wrong. Did you know that it takes 9years for a cork tree to regrow its bark. That’s not really sustainable.
Oh wow, that’s interesting, it’s certainly marketed very differently! Thanks so much for the insight Greg, I really appreciate you taking the time to reply 🙏🏼
Greg, thank you so much for your videos, always making easier for beginners to understand, with very clear instructions! I've bought a van with a bed frame, all panels and floor already done, but the guy didn't run any cables or conduits through the pillars and the gaps available for this. To avoid opening those access to the pillars, I thought of attaching the conduits on top of the lined carpet. Do you think it can be too warm for keeping them "inside"? Or it's worth opening the area to run the conduits and cables and close it again?
I’ve been a HGV mechanic for nearly 17 years. You can always tell a good sparky because they make things look easy. Watching this video is like watching a master at work. The way you routed those wires, especially the ceiling fan. I thought Greg knows what he’s doing. Anyone that has worked on vehicles knows that the “easy or 5 min jobs” take the longest and are the most infuriating. I really liked this video. It’s very informative. You’ve earned a new subscriber.
Thank you very much 👍🏼
Hi Greg, hope you're well fella. Haven't seen any more videos since this one. Hope everything is ok 🙏. Really enjoy your in-depth videos.👍👍
Maybe you can help me with my concern of this setup?
If you're going to have a huge battery bank constantly drawing on your alternator, won't it overheat and cut out? Then all of your electrics will drain the starter battery until the alternator cools enough to cut back in. If your starter battery drops too low too often you'll be constantly replacing it, not to mention replacing the alternator sooner as well.
I get the advantage of being able to top up batteries on long drives if they're getting low, so maybe shield them and leave them disconnected in the box to connect when needed like during whole weeks of overcast days when the solar hasn't been charging as much?
So glad you showed the fuel tank located near the battery box. A strong warning to all that you need to be careful about drilling access holes. Check and double check that you are not going to be close to anything that could be damaged if you drill carelessly. I would agree with you that it is safer to remove items well out of harms way and follow all the rules of safety. Far too many vlogs on RUclips are just hair breadths away from disaster and injury. Bravo for showing us how to do it and explaining it.
A trick to find out where rear cable access might be found is to follow official Tow Bar installation instructions. They will always try and use the Manufacturer's access points to the shell.
So clear and concise, no messing around, and presented by a guy who obviously knows what he is talking about. What's not to like? Thank you very much.
Thank you very much 😃 that’s nice of you to say so 👍🏼
@@GregVirgoe I have a question. You did a 30A DC/DC charger but I was wondering if it is possible to do TWO 30A DC/DC chargers for a total of 60A?
Because with only one 30A charger it would take over 3 hours of running the engine to charge up one 100Ah battery.
That's a bit slow for winter camping where solar is at a minimum and the engine is the only real power source.
You think this is possible?
You’re are the best at explaining this van build stuff, thank you for making it understandable for us beginners. Awesome! Awesome! Awesome!
Another great video. Thank you (and Lou's hand that made a couple guest appearances).
I had half a dozen notifications of videos in my RUclips subscriptions today and, as always, I went for yours first as you make things so easy to understand with your clear explanations.
I know it’s a busy day on Sunday for videos because RUclips tells us that’s when most of our viewers are online. So I thank you for putting me first. That means a lot 😊
As usual, great instruction and motivation. One suggestion: Add a dead 1.5 mm wire to every length of conduit to use as a pull wire in the future. You never know what you might want to add in years to come. 👍😀
That or just a draw string. I did use an old cable to pull in two new ones before. 👍🏼😊
Thanks Greg for your easy to follow instructions. I am in Australia and just got my 1982 Toyota Coaster bus registered and know nothing about solar, Battery requirements or any other DC wirering but following you videos has been a great help and easy to understand.
I just can't get my head around electrics and running cables and what's needed and where. I feel overwhelmed just watching you do it, never mind actually doing it myself!
I used to think that but if you just do a few hours of research a day it can all gradually piece together.
Started our build at the beginning of summer, we are now about a month away from completion. I've done it all "The Greg Virgoe Way"..thank you so much Greg.
Sounds great! I'm sure it will give you many happy years of travelling :D
The absolute best tutorials on van conversion. Thanks Greg. I’m working on my sprinter and am utilizing every single video you have posted. You have sincerely made my life and I’m sure the lives of all do it yourselfers much easier. Thanks again for a job well done!!!!!!!!! K / Oklahoma
That’s what they are here for so I thank you for giving me great feedback it’s good to know they are valued. Thank you 🙏🏼
Yet another proper sound video Greg my van build going so much better for watching your channel m8 keep them coming by the way just come off the back of 2 courses to do with work and found myself thinking these would be so much better if Greg was the tutor your are born to teach Greg 😊😊
Oh thank you 🙏🏼 that’s really nice to hear. I know how you feel with work courses. Many are death by PowerPoint 😳🤣
How convenient that you are in the middle of a Ducato build. I've just bought a 2014 L4H3 Boxer last week for a campervan conversion and I will be following every step of your build and will likely copy a lot of your tips and ideas. Thank you for these videos.
No problem, hope they help you and good luck
I’ve had my van almost a year now, watching your vids has made the difference to me getting stuck in again. Thank you!
I’m really pleased they are helping to motivate you. It’s a lot of work but if you break it down into bite size jobs with little goals it’s less daunting. Good luck 😉
I've seen a lot of builds with the cable just sitting in the voids. Apart from the possible short hazard, Conduit also makes it much easier to add new circuits if you have to.
Well worth £10-15 up front (and you saved a lot more on the cable!)
I can't agree more, we have added cables to our Sprinter van over the years and so glad I could use the conduit to pull new ones in.
Hello Greg Love your videos electric very informative and practical and the sizing for the cables and the materials used and tools your a top man for one man Greg 🔝😎🍻
I’m really pleased you are enjoying this series. Thank you for watching. 👍🏼😊
Just laid a new floor in my van and this video has arrived in perfect time…my next job, running cables!😊
That is awesome! I Hope this helps you :D
Really enjoying all your Teaching Videos Greg....almost hypnotic.....Picking up some great tips along the way. You have a very enjoyable style !! Just mapping out my Vivaro Plan.
Thank you for taking the time to let me know. I really do appreciate your kind thoughts 👍🏼😊
Good to see latest van build video Greg. Very comprehensive as usual.
Thank you very much. I try to pack them with useful information so each one is a help to you 👍🏼😊
Hey Greg your video have always been a huge help and go to for help and ideas. Keep up the great work. All the best with the new channel. I have subscribed 😁
Fantastic clear and concise video explained in layman's terms , massive help ... Thank you
You are most welcome. Thanks for watching 👍🏼😊
Another great video Greg. Might be worth mentioning that some of these Peugeot, Fiat, Citroen vans have a factory fitted converters electrical panel behind the plastic cover at the bottom of the drivers door pillar near the handbrake. If fitted it has a battery connection already supplied.
Some of the newer ones do but sadly most me does not have anything there large enough to connect a battery charger to. The route from drivers B pillar to my battery location would also be difficult. But it may benefit others 👍🏼😊
Some builds have the Converter upgraded harness, some don't, but realising where the manufacturer places these upgrades gives a clue as to where you might be able run a new harness within the shell.
mine does. thats a really helpful comment thank you
Great work Greg , you are my favourite van builder on RUclips, Thank you .
Wow, thanks! Thats nice to hear :D
UK is the only country in Europe that uses rigid copper wire for the household. I lived and worked in 4 European countries and all of them use fire retardant tubbing also flex wires 3x monophase fire retardant. It Is great that you recommend this type of wiring, very true it tends to last way longer than the rigid ones . Incredible videos, as usual, looking forward to seeing this van build.
Thank you 🙏🏼
That's not true. In germany house installations are done with solid copper core wires.
When a wire is installed in a fixed position you use solid core, when the cable is used somewhere where it can move you use flex wires.
I love your work Greg and the clarity of your explanations. Thank you very much for posting your videos!
"put the wire into the conduit first" i'd never of thought of that thanks . It's so simple but so obvious. Great video thanks
It makes a massive difference because you just cannot push it through after it’s installed. 👍🏼😊
Good to see you back, I was worried I was going to have to guess how to do the next bit of our van ☺️👍
Sorry about that, will be cracking on with it form now on, no more guessing is needed. lol
@@GregVirgoe thanks so much Greg 👌
Yet another Top Quality vid. Well presented, informative and full of hard won advice. Thanks Greg you are my 'go to' for all things Van related.
That’s brilliant 🤩 I’m glad you’re enjoying the videos 👍🏼
Welcome back Greg, thanks for such a clear explanation for the cabling and how to connect the dc2dc (haven't seen that before). I love the idea of two blade connectors.
Yes, thanks, it makes sense to have them remote to where you need them to cut down on the number of cables in the van.
14:39 it’s been 5 months since you’ve done anything on this build
By subscribing to your channel we show our respect for your knowledge on this subject .
I too have started a build on a fiat ducato maxi around the same time as yourself
And was looking forward to tapping into your knowledge.
Honestly think it’s time you gave your subscribers an update at least.
All the best hopefully see you on the road sometime. Dave
Great to see an update, Greg - loving the new series. 🙂
Thank you very much
Thanks Greg. Looking forward to seeing the next video.
Plan is to start on my Boxer conversion in the new year, so please keep these coming, because your giving me so much needed info. 👍🏻
You got it! Loads more useful information to come soon 👍🏼😊
Thank you for this planning to get a Mercedes Vito Van to convert into a camper soon so invaluable information thank you for sharing clear instructional videos keep up the good work.
Glad to see you back! Just about to run my cables so this has come at the perfect time. Thanks Greg!
That's good I'm glad it has helped you :D
Greg, watched all your vids, I'm actually doing a steel boat build in Serbia, but many principles are the same. Learning lots from you, PS, thanks for not selling out to corporate. Regards, Mick Mc
The two are almost identical when it comes to off grid living and electrics. I always promote the products that I have researched and bought myself. Unless it’s of value to my viewers I won’t promote it. Thank you 🙏🏼😊
Once again a great video with top class info. Just starting my Peugeot Boxer build (new to all this) my brain was starting to hurt with electrics - now I can relax.
Thanks.
You can do it! Just take your time and planning is the key 👍🏼😊
Nice to see back . Hope family all OK. 😊❤
Thank you 🙏🏼 spending time with family 😊
Awesome video, this series will be the only guide I will need when I do my van, many thanks
I’m pleased about that. Wish you all the best with your own self build 👍🏼😊
See as soon as yo9u said "that needs a 10mm" that would be the day done for me. I probably wouldn't find it until the following Tuesday or something lol. Glad to see the project going on strong.
It helps to have a good plan up front and order what you need ahead of time so no time is lost when building 😊
Just bought a MWB boxer and in the early stages of our first conversion. We stumbled across this series wondering what to do next after finishing sorting all the metal work. This series is going to be very helpful, looks like we will be converting along with you. You're officially our van build dad!
Fantastic! I’m pleased to have you on board. Best wishes with your own build. 🤩
Guys I've just brought a fiat Ducato also my first camper build Greg you make it look so easy I've watched all your Ducato videos hopefully follow your build already starting to panic keep up the good work
it is amazing how similar your van is to my promaster is in the states, I put a relay in to the 12 volt power source in the rear, to cut the house batteries from the van battery'. great videos keep up the good work.
Amazing work, watching your videos increases my confidence. Your videos are so clear. Thanks
Happy to hear that! Hope all goes well with your own build
Great to see you back on this van build Greg, another video full of quality information for us, thank you.
I have a campervan, it's an old conversion by EMC Campers, a basic conversion, with just a simple stove and rock and roll bed.
However after looking at most of your videos, I now plan on installing electrics and a sink/ hob unit, so thank you so much !
Very nice! It’s great to do the upgrades yourself as you will have more knowledge about how it works 😊
Hi Greg, I have been watching your vlogs for a while and as everyone says, clear and concise information. I have a Fiat Ducato L3H2 that I plan to convert over the winter and your vlogs will be helping me along the journey as a point of reference. Thank you and keep up the excellent work.....ps great camera work by Mrs.Virgoe
Glad you like them! Hope all goes well with your build. Don’t tell the misses that she’ll be asking for a raise 🤣👍🏼
Probably the most informative , helpful , easy to follow and actually engaging "how to guide" iv watched. And iv watched more than i care to admit. Good on ya Greg and thanks for helping me on my camper electrical system... Regards Jim
Entertaining and informative as usual. Only thing I can add is definitely works better to fit two fuse box's one each side of the van. Way less cable runs.
Yes I have three in our sprinter, one in the garage and one either side in the high level cupboards. 👍🏼🤩
Greg, all your videos have been so helpful. i have just bougnht a van to do up and its also a fiat ducato so all of this is perfect. its all so detailed and super useful for someone who is starting a new project like this. thanks for all your video thus far and i look forward to watching more
That’s brilliant 🤩 hope all goes well with your own build 👍🏼😊
Excellent video, I'm just about to buy a van to convert into the family camper, I like that you don't talk a load of pony, you get straight to the point, I'll be following you religiously, please keep the kids coming and prepare for some questions when I start, all the best Mark 👍
Another great video guys. It's the jobs like this that take time and although you get the benefit when the van is complete, you don't get to see the work that's gone into it as its hidden away. Looking forward to the next one.
Very true! Most of the work in a van conversion is behind the scenes. The furniture is the easy bit that comes together quickly.
I bet if you were to have a look at a factory build and look closely at the work you don't see you would wonder why they are so expensive.
@@davidanderson5893 from what I’ve seen there’s no conduit it’s all loose cable held in place with masking tape and a prayer 🙏🏼🤣
Bought my first camper, stripped it all down and I'm now on to electrics so this has been a great help, thanks for taking the time to go through it all 👍
top video and it answered a question I asked in the off grid video, I'm enjoying this and feeling really confident , thanks .
oh did I miss your question? Do you mind me asking what it was?
I was with regards to taking just one live and earth feed from vehicle main battery.
@@Acookinthefield oh ok I have answer quite a few asking the same question.
Thanks Greg. After having my wiring Wolfcraft loom stolen, when my caravan was robbed, I shall wire the campletely gutted T2 with your help (especially sizing cable)
Very helpful video with all the product details in the descriptions. Your videos are there to help others clearly. Thank you!!!
As always, such a great video, and really love that you let us in on those moments where you show your weird side (ie crimped connection reaction). Perfectly laid out and edited video. I do a few things that add to you method, might be overkill. 1. I add grommet and/or edge guarding to the sharp edges where the conduit comes through, doubly ensuring protection of the system, especially if it gets squeezed. 2. I add labeling at all entrances and exits of 120vac (here in the US) as well as use orange colored extra rugged conduit. This is mostly for emergency responders in a just in case situation. The us hasn’t codified totally a color scheme so i went with the color my manufacturer uses for their EV in higher than 48v situations, in this case orange. I also use labels for the solar lines since they are always live even though it’s at non lethal voltages.
Never a bad idea to go the extra mile 😊 I shall be doing lots of labelling once complete 👍🏼
Good to see you back Greg 👍
Ah thank you so much 😊
Again, watching the next video. Brilliant. Thanks Greg for providing such usefull info 👍🏻
Good to see you back again! … and I must mention how quick you undo those nuts and bolts😉👍🍻
Thanks 😂 I’ve been in training while been away. Go Go Gadget hands 👍🏼
Great too see you back with another fantastic video 👍
Thank you very much :D
Another super clear video Greg. Just like to highlight how important it is to fit the 40A as close to the battery terminal as possible, just as you have shown. This prevents the cable from burning in case of a short circuit further down the line.
Thanks, Rob, also applies to the fuse for the blade fuse holder which will be right next to the leisure batteries. Cheers Greg
Would you mind explaining a bit more on what you mean here about putting the blade fuse holder near the leisure batteries, and putting the 40A (fuse?) near to the main battery?
@@junglegoose4648 Fuses are there to protect the cable from burning, in case of a short. So one side of the cable is protected but the other side is not. So placing the fuse as close as possible to the battery, means the unprotected part of the cable is as short as possible. (less likely to be damaged).
@@junglegoose4648 fuses are to protect the cable from overcurrent situation so the fuses need to be fitted close to the battery as possible then you can run your cable to wherever you want to fit your device.
Can you put a fuse straight off your battery terminal before you run your wire off it?
You are the absolute best teacher, Greg!!! I love your videos. Thank you for the incredible knowledge you put out to us all the time, for years. I trust you because you are a certified electrical engineer in the UK so you know your codes and safety protocols. Beautiful work. Thank you!
Missed these Greg, got excited because starting to think about ours now , I got lost 🙈, shortly after the hole in the battery box 😮, I’ll watch it another 100 times 😂 hhhheeeeellllpppp 🤣 x
You know you can always rely on me to help you guys anytime. Hope you are both well 😊
@@GregVirgoe❤ might message you for some guidance , and if you’re ever in Sutton Coldfield well . . . . 😊 x love to you both x
@@tinam7979 it would be a pleasure to see you both again. If I can be of any help just ask 👍🏼😊
@@GregVirgoeyou are lovely thanks Greg x
Enjoyed you firsts series and great to see a second series - I’m doing my second van and you helped me heaps on the first van 4 years ago. Cheers Greg
Thanks Greg. I have fitted fuse boards to both sides of my conversion in the top cupboards centrally. It's surprising how many cable runs one needs. Keep them coming, please.
Well done 👍🏼 it really does make more sense to have them mounted local to where they are needed 😃
fantastic vid as always Greg thanks a lot. especially enjoyed 8.50
Me showing my nutty side 😂😊
Great video Greg as usual.
Can't wait for the next one where you will be insulating the van as mine is condensation terribly at the moment due to painted metal surfaces.
Good luck and best wishes to you Greg.
I've been watching your builds for a while and love your simple accurate explanations. Why do you use a negative between the batteries, could you not use the van chassis?
Great as always Greg ! I am at this stage of running cables & kind of bit lost ... but your videos help a lot to have a kind of vision of this global nightmare 🤣😂 All the best to you !!!
Perfect Greg... absolutely perfect. You've just saved me a few quid on cable.
I dont know what I didn't think of locating the fuse box to the middle of the van (mines an L3) makes fishing cables through flexy conduit alot easier too with shorter runs. I'm doing a MEGA order next week to continue the build. That's so tidy aswell routing the DC DC charger cable underneath the van and again if there is any problems makes it accessible.
I'll be picking your brains on solar on the solar video if thats ok as I'm still unsure what to order in terms of panels and want to go LITHIUM with my batteries.
Thank you once again. Your a top mam and have helped 1000's I'm sure. 🙏🏻💚🙏🏻
I’m really glad this one helped you. Please do ask away I’ll be happy to help you if I can. Renogy have a fantastic deal on two 100Ah lithiums from their new core range for only £600 that’s amazing value for 200Ah of lithium from a brand leader.
@@GregVirgoe Great video, if you had these batteries would you consider going gas free ?
@@iainhenderson8751 it would help but it needs more solar. It’s ok having a huge battery bank but you need to be able to recharge it.
I wouldn’t go gas free if I had to run my van all the time to recharge the batteries that false economy.
Hi Greg, me again, I've come across a potential problem. If I'm running 2 Victron DC-DC 12/30 chargers...am i right in thinking that the voltage drop and amperage pulled (75a) potentially is gonna be too much for the 16mm2 cables running to the back from the starter battery. I've used the volt drop calculator on 12v planet and it says over a 6m run (approximately) the percentage volt drop is 1.13v or 8.9% of 12.6v
So would we be better to go for 35mm² or even 50mm² just to account for the bolt drop?
Actually volt drop shouldn't come into it the minimum Input voltage for the Victron 12/30 is 10v so even with 25mm² cable the amperage would be fine with 2 running in parallel producing near 75amps.
25mm² cable
Nominal Voltage 12.6v
Current Draw 75a
One way circuit length 8m (airing on the safe side length wise)
Voltage drop 7.33% (0.924volts)
I love maths 🤦🏻♂️.
Top Notch as usual Greg. just starting my first build and your videos are a great help . Thanks so much 🙏
Fantastic, as always clearly explained and neatly executed
Glad you liked it! Thank you for a great comment 🤩
Thanks for a thorough understanding of the electric, much appreciated 👍
Great video Greg keep up the good work, I've just started my van build
I enjoy watching your videos, I've already learned a lot.
I have a Fiat Ducato. Camper belongs to Fleurette. I installed a Vitron Multiplus myself and routed the power supply that was already present to the multiplus. Has been working for a few months. At one point I was standing at a camper place with electricity, I heard a bang or a lamp burst. After that everything still works. But when the engine is running, no voltage is supplied to the Multiplus. Also have a BMS. But when the engine is running, the refrigerator runs on 12 volts.
I saw in this video that you connect the power supply for the camper with a fuse, but not a Cytrix.
I've looked several times to see if I saw a link to support your channel, but I don't see it.
You should find any product links in the video descriptions. Please look at my recent wiring video as that has all the products in the description here is a link for you
12v Electrics for Off-Grid Campervan - Fiat Ducato Budget Build Ep12
ruclips.net/video/xCw7eARJKOg/видео.html
Thanks Greg, so helpful as always. Have been waiting for the next vid! Hope you're well 😃
Sorry I have been away for a while. Thank you for being patient. 🙏🏼
Worth waiting for!
You explain things so well that everything sinks in quickly without confusion. Thank you from downunder! 👍
Great detail as always perfect timing I have a 25 ft fiat ducato low loader to convert so looking forward to the rest of your conversion videos , thankyou wondering if you ever did write a book ?
Love these videos - Its giving me some good insight to reworking my T5 electrics properly. Thank you Greg!
As always - simply the best.
Wow, thanks! :D
Greg, first I would like to thank you for your videos, you have inspired me to have a campervan.( I have spent an entire day in bed when I was following the first series of conversion videos, so educational ) My question is related to the black wire that you are running from your main battery to the DCDC converter, since the negative pole of your main battery is connected to the chassis of the vehicle, you could use the the chassis as your "black wire" . Like this you do not need the entire length of the black wire. If it is wired like that actually you can save a lot of black wire ( negative of the 12V ) since you have the vehicle chassis almost everywhere and you just need a short wire ( and maybe a rivnut ) . What would be the advantages and disadvantages of wiring the 12V electronics like that. If there would be a campervan conversion academy you would be the dean!
I prefer to wire it as an "isolated" 12v leisure side and not use the chassis for negative paths. This will avoid any poor ground connections infuture and alleviate any possible extra resistance, volt drop and loss of connections, making future trouble shooting also easier and avoiding any interference with the auto eletrics too. Hope that helps. I'm sure there are many people that will confirm their "non-isolated" system works ok but this is my preference. :D
Thank you. I am aiming to do this for next summer.
Wonderful! I wish you all the best with your build.
Hi Greg, great stuff as usual...You have mentioned that you are going to do the insulation next. Have you considered using a product called Tyvek as a vapour permeable barrier. It is used extensively in the pitched roofing industry it is impervious from one surface but breathable from the other. Keep up the brilliant work. Cheers
No, because that is not what we need here. The reason building membranes are breathable is because timbers need to be ventilated to stop them rotting.
In our van we need a 100% totally impervious barrier in both directions and the only material that will do that is foil. You cannot compare house building techniques with a steel van. Two very different applications 😊👍🏼
Another really good informative video. Cheers Greg 👍
I'm glad you liked it :D
You did a GOOD JOB! I like your Van. I have a question for you; I need to insulate my Aluminium box truck of my FORD E-450 2003. The beams underneat are aluminium but they are a little a bit rusted. I wanted to protect them by adding R15 Insulation foam underit. and then put the coolant pipe and water pipes there. I want to know how to do that and protect that insulation and water pipes from snow, salt, dust etc?
Hi Greg , great content as always very informative 👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it. Thank you 😊
Just getting started with my first in a van solar setup, this was helpful.
3:00 Greg, Just so others understand, please make sure that you also use fuses the trunking cable at the battery itself as well. The fuses need to protect the cable, not the device! That is why you always size the fuses to the max the cable will support or less than that number. That way if a short happens, the fuse will burn out before the cable does and starts a fire. Safety first. Just remember that if a car/van/truck starts on fire, its almost guaranteed that it will be destroyed by the amount of flammable and toxic material in there. Get job. 🤠👍 Another thing is that you should always use at least the split loom tubing on any fixed cable in a moving car. And secure the cabling along the route. Ideally use a wire tie around the object you want to secure it to and then another wire tie around the tubing and through the first. That way the cable doesn't actually lay on the rigid part and rub. I have seen many rub outs of wires from either not being secure or secured directly to the item as the cable moves all the time. Conduit or split loom tubing really helps mitigate that issue for sure.
8:25 & 10:28 👍😁
Thank you very much for the wise lessons, again!
Glad you like them! My pleasure 😇
Hi ..some have used the chassis for the negative cable which goes to the leisure battery and the positive cable from the van battery to supply the split charger then to the positive side of the leisure battery.
Greetings from Brazil! Your videos are awesome and so inspiring! I built my Iveco Maxi Furgone based on your amazing job! Thank you very much!
Watching this video a question come up: Why did you choose pass an entirely new negative cable to connect to the battery, instead of connecting directly into the chassis that is already negative?
Thank you so much! My best wishes! Lucas Massena
Hi Greg. Can’t wait for the next video. How do you vapour barrier around the point where the cables that are buried in the insulation come through it? I’ve taken out all the cables in favour of putting them between the ply liner and the already vp’d insulation, but I’d prefer to do it your way.
Just use foil tape around the conduits or cables to seal any holes it’s really not difficult 😊
Great 17 part series, I’ve learnt so much. Did you film the rest of the build? Adding the insulation, walls, ceiling etc.
Hi Greg, these are really helpful videos, and I'm sure many people enjoy your video just like I did. One question, in the video 8:20' why are we using a 40 amp fuse in a 30amp DC to DC charger? I thought the fuse needed to be smaller so it would blow first. (PS, this might be a silly question as I don't have any background knowledge of electrical ... thanks, looking forward to hearing from you or anyone who could help me understand this.
Hey Greg.....your videos are so professional, you have been a point of reference for so many of us DIY converters, you manage to be informative and entertaining which most mainstream TV can't pull off!
Wee question for you, do you know of any decent van build forums that I could join?.....I have a Transit Custom and it would be invaluable to bounce some ideas off other owners.... Keep the videos coming Greg👍👍👍
Looks like you've been back down the Gym Greg! 💪💪 👍
Yes, I had a few "fat shaming" comments on previous videos so i've been back down the gym 3-4 times a week to get back into shape, to be fair i have missed it so needed the kick up the arse to do something about it. LOL
@@GregVirgoe
Putting us all (OK...me!) to shame! 😁
Top guy. Excellent teacher.
Hello Greg
We are loving your videos, I am following them for my own MWB van conversion.
It might seem dumb but am I right in thinking you use the 2.5 black rubber cable for all your connections from the blade fuse holder to the 12 volt items on your wiring plan marked as 1.5 mm cable? I also noticed that the cables for the bed head lights go back to where the main power cables are coming in and not back to the kitchen blade fuse holder. Is this because your going to have a 2nd blade fuse holder down in the garage space? I am just trying make sure I get it right first time.
All the best Steve & Anita
Wishing you happy traveling
Hey Greg! Thanks for the video and useful info and tips on the cabling! Always fun watching your guids!
Glad you like them! Thank you for taking the time to comment too. 👍🏼🤩
Really enjoying watching your series on self builds! I have a mobile dog wash business from a Peugeot Boxer van lol I’d like your thoughts on the best water sealant many thanks for your videos and any help would be much appreciated!
Sika do a bathroom sealant which is brilliant for water www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265783645638?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=2ov-tsPQQ2y&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=IAwKHBzwQ6K&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Thank-you Greg
Good stuff as usual 😎
Enjoying this build just as i enjoyed the first 👍
Thank you 🙏🏼 hope you enjoy the rest too 😊
Hi Greg we are in the first stages of converting a MK7 transit minibus and we have 2 batteries under the drivers seat which one woulkd be the best to use to attach to the leisure battery when we decide which to use (lithium etc),i have been told that one is a starter battery and the other is an auxillary battery ?...Thanks and love the videos as they are brilliant for novices like us.
Hi Greg, thanks as always for a great video with lots of helpful tips and tricks.
You mentioned at the end of the video insulation and since this, along with condensation is your area of expertise I wonder if you had any thoughts on spray cork.
Apparently it’s lightweight, thin, water and fire resistant, has great thermal/acoustic properties and needs no vapour barrier. I know your van is themed as a budget build and cork is expensive but I’m looking to live in my van so keeping temperature regulated and water/mold free is essential.
There’s a great demo video called ‘What is Cork Sol?’ by the RUclipsr Trowel Talk with lots of info. In your previous video you discussed the dew point and I wondered how that would sit with cork?
Ok so I could write a paragraph about why it’s not a viable option but let’s just give you the facts.
It has a thermal conductivity of 0.04 w/mk so only 10% better than any wool type loft insulation ie mineral wool, recycled plastic bottle insulation etc. it typically comes in 10mm thick sheets so you would need at least 9 layers to equal one application of 100mm loft insulation. That would cost you £100m2 and would weigh a ton.
Stick to the conventional and best materials. PIR, closed cell foam and recycled plastic bottle loft insulation by Diall. You won’t go wrong. Did you know that it takes 9years for a cork tree to regrow its bark. That’s not really sustainable.
Oh wow, that’s interesting, it’s certainly marketed very differently! Thanks so much for the insight Greg, I really appreciate you taking the time to reply 🙏🏼
@@SecrePeach sales people will try and sell Sand to the Arabs. Marketing will never focus on any negative points for obvious reasons 👍🏼😊
Greg, thank you so much for your videos, always making easier for beginners to understand, with very clear instructions!
I've bought a van with a bed frame, all panels and floor already done, but the guy didn't run any cables or conduits through the pillars and the gaps available for this.
To avoid opening those access to the pillars, I thought of attaching the conduits on top of the lined carpet.
Do you think it can be too warm for keeping them "inside"? Or it's worth opening the area to run the conduits and cables and close it again?