@YSIB trust me. I have. It’s gotten to the point where they’re just saying “hey I got something for you” 😂😂🙈🙈 those are too common to be put on a block list
Good on you for not defaulting to wide aperture and ISO advice. Like one may not be available and the other is a whole different problem. This is just good advice for actually making photos- rather than just leaning on simplistic exposure basics. Also, Batis ftw! Such a great set of primes. We're so spoiled by lens choices in the Sony ecosystem.
This is the way. You need at least f2.8 to set shutter speed to 1/15 and have a portable light so you could take a picture person in front of you and night city behind. Preferably to have a full frame for better ISO noise reduction. I remember Sony a65 (APS-C) had a feature like Night Portrait, that does a double exposure in one (well double) shot. It does one shot with flash and right away second shot without flash at one release button click. Then it automatically process it in the camera. It's not the best solution, but at least you can see night City on background of person.
Just a tip as well that if you have a built in camera flash, if it has a little hinge you can always point it up and try to bounce the light down if you're in the right environment. :)
That napkin tip is so, so useful! I've used small diffusers before for in-camera flash but I'm usually only using it if I didn't bring any other gear, this will be a lifesaver.
Been following you for a few years. You have a rare tallent to make "same" videos over and over and make em fresh. Always a new angle to an old theme (y)
On the on camera flash. X-t30 you can layer about 2-3 scotch tape(very small). It will defuse the on camera flash making it more useable and not over powering. At the same time allow you to still close the camera flash on top of the camera. You can also apply a layer of wax paper with the scotch tape to provide more diffusion. In the session for jpeg set it to recover shadows and put noise reduction to 2. It should allow for pretty good jpegs when shooting at night. Still shoot raw+jpeg. Can really make great portraits with the X-t30 with just the 56mm f1.2 and using flash. Just a note for the X-t30 the lenses hoods will effect the flash. So remove the lenses hood on large lenses like the 56mm f1.2 or even the 18-55mm f2.8-4.
Then you going to hit your head of a brick wall trying to figure out why your image is not sharp. Camera calculate exposure based on that flash and knows nothing about your tape. It's better to reduce in camera settings the flash power if your camera is not that cheap that you don't have it in settings. Anyway, the flash makes flat images, unless you use external flash, bouncing from ceiling.
What helps most is a big sensor and a fast prime lens that cost that sweet sweet dough. Same thing with a better IBIS (for lower SS) and a faster processor (for better results at higher ISOs), which come with newer models. Again, just throwing cash at the problem. There's only so much you can achieve with a budget zoom and a budget APS-C camera, for example. Also, for those portable constant light sources - it'd be nice to mention how you're supposed to arrange them for the shoot. You're probably using both hands (and maybe even a wall or your torso) to squeeze every bit of stability of that camera in the dark, so you can't hold the light yourself. So you're either asking the model to hold the light and directing'em (so you have to frame tightly with a longer focal length) or you have an assistant, like in your vid (which is quite a big requirement, esp. for spontaneous, low budget stuff or just scheduling).
perfect timing! finally returning to japan in december shooting full frame for the first time (last few trips were shot w/ aps-c and micro4/3) - thanks always for the motivation dude :D
Thank you for the napkin trick ! : ) I have a gold 1/8 CTO gel on the pop up flash and that renders a much better color temperature than the out-of-control harsh white, but always been looking for a portable easy to use diffuser... ; )
I paused at 3:48 so I could find Waldo before continuing the video. Also, I like the trick with placing a napkin over the flash, I had never seen that before!
Here's another Low Light mistake I've done recently! Forgetting that your screen brightness is set brighter than usual for a sunny day... All pictures looked alright on the camera screen, but they were considerably underexposed on the computer.
@@SourPlanet Right! Good point! I don't look at the histogram much during night time, (since it mostly be to the left, anyway). But if I had it opened that night, I would've probably saw how everything was way too much to the left side.
@@JonathanBriseboisLamarche Yeah, it's an easy thing to have happen. Especially when you're psyched for a shot or two and get in the moment before double checking settings.
I really appreciate this video. I’ve struggled for years getting any decent night photos and they come out just a grainy mess. Looks like I need to get one of those LED lights, I didn’t know that existed!
This is twice in like five days @anocam has popped up in someone's RUclips channel I saw him a UK RUclips channel based in London using the Fuji XT5. Great photographer.
Without bright lights in the scene, when shooting in low light, I underexpose by two stops and bring those back in post. Good trade for having more flexibility in iso and aperture. I'd wish cameras would have a configurable mode to do this and bringing exposure up just for the preview image by the value you defined to underexpose it.
For A7riii(or a camera with flash sync port). Neo 2/3 with the flash sync port will grant you LED with a flash. Great setup for portrait photography if you want on camera flash. expose for highlight and pull the shadows. great low light photography option. Just keep in mind LED can be blinding. So don't go full power when trying to use it to get focus.
A warning to those who plan doing this, the flash synch port on the a7r3 is known to be a weak point and a part from it tends to snap off. This had happened twice to the person who I bought my a7r3 from.
Jason thanks for this I am doing a low light portrait session today aswell as a day one today in Central London United Kingdom with my Nikon D5500 these tips I shall use. Stay blessed
Yep! It's official you da man, good stuff brother I'm picking up what your putting down, thanks for sharing, I'm sure if I continue to work hard my photos will start looking less like I used a 1970s Polaroid camera and more like J V's ✌️
4:53 boosting the shadows will bring up all noise from dark image like that. Then you return shadows back just to hide all that noise. The only thing is useful is Full frame camera portable light, fast lens (f2.8 or f1.8) with stabilization with shutter speed usually 1/15.
I finally watched this video. Oddly, like a Find Waldo momment, I found myself at 3:29. Great video, some really good points. I'll be heading to Japan again next week. Going to explore the Western part of Japan and maybe Fukouka in the South for this trip along with doing the Ikebukuro Halloween Cosplay Festival again this year. If I run into you again in Japan, I will buy you and your wife a drink.
Great video as usual! I hate the built in flash for everything except one thing: fill light in counter light. I never managed to get as even of a look with my speedlite mounted on the camera as with using the built in pop-up flash. But for anything else, external, off-camera speedlites ftw!
@@JasonVong Nice !!! is any video I can see disneyland Paris in your channel? Now I film DLP with a cinema rig on my AS7II .. I think I'm the only one youtuber in disneyland with this set 😜 tilta cage- tilta hand (focus and batterie npf 570 ) +16 35 zeiss f4 - tilta mirage with nucleus and VND + vfx blue streak + 5" feelworld monitor + tilta follow focus for zoom... 😁
hey, great videos you are doing! wanted to ask if you can make a like detailed guide to low light street photography with setups and settings and stuff :)
Excellent video @JasonVong ! Very useful info. I definitely will look into getting some of the constant output LED lights. This time of year I rarely get off work before dark. I find if I want to do any shooting (almost always for fun), I will be in constant “negotiation” mode about how to set up exposure. I generally shoot with a Nikon Z6 and a Nikkor Z 24-70 MM F4 S Line lens. I sometimes use an f1.8 prime, but find compositionally, it is more limiting to be at fixed focal length than to shoot at F4 after dark. I have not figured out how to isolate a subject who is a good distance away using a 35 MM lens. I need more practice to understand the options with fixed length lenses at night.
Great tips indeed. But for still photography and street lighting with neon lights all around similar to yours. My camera has nop flash, so I wouldn’t be forced to use it..! But…AV versus M..? ( canon 6d ii with a 24-70mmm f/2.8 lens ) ISO..? Speed..? F..stop setting..? Always RAW, of course! I’m curious to see what answers i get. I would never be at your level, so the ad showed would be wasted on me sadly!
Thank you for the great video. I believe using a light source is not exactly a low light situation, I consider the introduction of a light source as light pollution. What is the best camera beyond Sony Alpha S series for true low light or near black out non IR conditions?
good video. Thanks . The only thing is it is so fast its hard to read the comments that appear like the into about hair light. I am needing to replay and replay to read it all. Perhaps slow the info down?
Just random thought, but what if you put duct tape on your built on flash to cover half of it, so it only fires from either the left or right? Would that give the subject more shadows than a full flash?
Thankyou so much for this i am a new photographer and learning so much from you, do have any recommendation on how i can improve my sports photography pictures? i am using nikon D3100 is it to old? thanks
Another mistake is thinking you need an expensive full frame setup with bright glass. Use proper technique and even adapting f1.4 vintage glass can get you good results with APSC or MFT. Even phones can get good results. I’d also add go out in the rain, street lights, car lights or billboards look more vivid in the rain. Make your own Blade Runner pic 🤓
Surre, grab any cheap F0.75 lens w/o or with 1 layer of coating, get a shot, vomit, and forget photography or videography for rest of your life (as with astronomy with plastic 50 mm telescope). Cinema ppl so dumb inventing hundreds of layers of T-coating, Noctilux light path design trickering to avoid flare. But we, smart ppl do same with "skill". Damn liers. Night photo is most gear demanding thing that require insane amount of money to get rid of flare, Sony GM, selected Zeiss, insanely absurd coastly hand made Leika, ~20k NIkon, and you get your "skill".
@@AABB-px8lc sure whatever dude absolutely don’t dare try unless you’ve got 20k to spare. Just keep putting down other peoples work that you haven’t even seen (or were even invited to CC) and go ahead spending large sums of money…all sounds a little joyless to me though
@@LouieFerdinand but vintage bright is cheaper to start with no point blowing hundreds or even thousands on AF bright glass to then discover you don’t like night photography
At 4:00 setup is: 1/60 f2.8 iso 12,8k but how that pic was taken at 1/60 while movine in dark? Think is extreme importat the Body, with my setup at that settings will be just a mess blurred and with huge noise…
PSA: Just a reminder, I'm NOT doing any giveaway. Any replies you receive asking you to message them and "claim a gift" is a scam.
@YSIB trust me. I have. It’s gotten to the point where they’re just saying “hey I got something for you” 😂😂🙈🙈 those are too common to be put on a block list
It's great how RUclips hasn't figured out a way to thwart them and now we all get to deal with it
Lies!!!!! Lies!!!! 😂
So now they are saying “I got a surprise for you” that sounds dirty 🫣
❤
Good on you for not defaulting to wide aperture and ISO advice. Like one may not be available and the other is a whole different problem. This is just good advice for actually making photos- rather than just leaning on simplistic exposure basics.
Also, Batis ftw! Such a great set of primes. We're so spoiled by lens choices in the Sony ecosystem.
Thanks! I felt the wide aperture thing is such a cop out. (but I'm also sure I mentioned it before in a previous Low Light video 🤣)
This is the way. You need at least f2.8 to set shutter speed to 1/15 and have a portable light so you could take a picture person in front of you and night city behind. Preferably to have a full frame for better ISO noise reduction. I remember Sony a65 (APS-C) had a feature like Night Portrait, that does a double exposure in one (well double) shot. It does one shot with flash and right away second shot without flash at one release button click. Then it automatically process it in the camera. It's not the best solution, but at least you can see night City on background of person.
Huh? What is batis ftw?
@@michaelmcclellanjr9831 Zeiss Batis lenses. Really nice rendering a color.
3.35 i spat my drink out my mouth. Bro your humour is out of this world. honestly, you are such a fun guy to watch. i wish u all the best in this life
I laughed my ass off when he revealed he knows nothing about flash exposure compensation. Funny guy.
I love the look of on camera flash for nights out with friends, super nostalgic looking
Just a tip as well that if you have a built in camera flash, if it has a little hinge you can always point it up and try to bounce the light down if you're in the right environment. :)
This exactly, my favorite part of the old A6000
I made a diffuser for mine from a coffee filter. Also I use a handkerchief sometimes
@@ShadowDaNet That’s one reason I like my a6500, built-in flash.
That napkin tip is so, so useful! I've used small diffusers before for in-camera flash but I'm usually only using it if I didn't bring any other gear, this will be a lifesaver.
If possible, bounce. Diffuser in low light somehow may yield weird cut out look
Been following you for a few years. You have a rare tallent to make "same" videos over and over and make em fresh. Always a new angle to an old theme (y)
On the on camera flash. X-t30 you can layer about 2-3 scotch tape(very small). It will defuse the on camera flash making it more useable and not over powering. At the same time allow you to still close the camera flash on top of the camera. You can also apply a layer of wax paper with the scotch tape to provide more diffusion.
In the session for jpeg set it to recover shadows and put noise reduction to 2. It should allow for pretty good jpegs when shooting at night. Still shoot raw+jpeg. Can really make great portraits with the X-t30 with just the 56mm f1.2 and using flash.
Just a note for the X-t30 the lenses hoods will effect the flash. So remove the lenses hood on large lenses like the 56mm f1.2 or even the 18-55mm f2.8-4.
Good tip for Fuji users!! Thanks!
Then you going to hit your head of a brick wall trying to figure out why your image is not sharp. Camera calculate exposure based on that flash and knows nothing about your tape. It's better to reduce in camera settings the flash power if your camera is not that cheap that you don't have it in settings. Anyway, the flash makes flat images, unless you use external flash, bouncing from ceiling.
What helps most is a big sensor and a fast prime lens that cost that sweet sweet dough. Same thing with a better IBIS (for lower SS) and a faster processor (for better results at higher ISOs), which come with newer models. Again, just throwing cash at the problem. There's only so much you can achieve with a budget zoom and a budget APS-C camera, for example. Also, for those portable constant light sources - it'd be nice to mention how you're supposed to arrange them for the shoot. You're probably using both hands (and maybe even a wall or your torso) to squeeze every bit of stability of that camera in the dark, so you can't hold the light yourself. So you're either asking the model to hold the light and directing'em (so you have to frame tightly with a longer focal length) or you have an assistant, like in your vid (which is quite a big requirement, esp. for spontaneous, low budget stuff or just scheduling).
Love this thumbnail! Really eye-catching. Great vid man!
perfect timing! finally returning to japan in december shooting full frame for the first time (last few trips were shot w/ aps-c and micro4/3) - thanks always for the motivation dude :D
Illumination Season!!!
Thank you for the napkin trick ! : ) I have a gold 1/8 CTO gel on the pop up flash and that renders a much better color temperature than the out-of-control harsh white, but always been looking for a portable easy to use diffuser... ; )
Great tips. Many thanks. I recently found your channel and have been enjoying your videos! Useful information is always appreciated!
Your semi dad jokes have really grown on me! You're favorite photo RUclipsr, keep it up!
And I don’t even have a kid yet 😂
Also love the positivity and humour in your vids
a "like" for Tokyo Shinjuku 🤩😍
I paused at 3:48 so I could find Waldo before continuing the video. Also, I like the trick with placing a napkin over the flash, I had never seen that before!
This covered actually a ton of basics in photography in such a short video, great and helpful watch!
Here's another Low Light mistake I've done recently!
Forgetting that your screen brightness is set brighter than usual for a sunny day...
All pictures looked alright on the camera screen, but they were considerably underexposed on the computer.
Histogram up fixes that no problem 👍
@@SourPlanet exactly have a histogram open
@@Menosfilms Sadly, my entry level Nikon d3500 doesn't have that option..
@@SourPlanet Right! Good point! I don't look at the histogram much during night time, (since it mostly be to the left, anyway).
But if I had it opened that night, I would've probably saw how everything was way too much to the left side.
@@JonathanBriseboisLamarche Yeah, it's an easy thing to have happen. Especially when you're psyched for a shot or two and get in the moment before double checking settings.
I really appreciate this video. I’ve struggled for years getting any decent night photos and they come out just a grainy mess. Looks like I need to get one of those LED lights, I didn’t know that existed!
This is twice in like five days @anocam has popped up in someone's RUclips channel I saw him a UK RUclips channel based in London using the Fuji XT5. Great photographer.
Your videos and information are so great, I just had to sub! Thanks bro!
Thank you for this video! I'm planning to go to Disney next month.
Finally learned how to use the histogram! Thanks!
Not me actually pausing the video to look for Waldo loll.
Great advice, I am definitely going to start carrying a LED light with me.
Thank you so much! That's my weakness, now i know how to solve my problems about low light. Fist bump
Out of all the times you've been to Disney, I've never had the opportunity to bomb your vids 😂. Your renewed energy is 👍
Find us at Tokyo DisneySea!
@@JasonVongopposite ends now. At Epcot 🤣
Without bright lights in the scene, when shooting in low light, I underexpose by two stops and bring those back in post. Good trade for having more flexibility in iso and aperture.
I'd wish cameras would have a configurable mode to do this and bringing exposure up just for the preview image by the value you defined to underexpose it.
For A7riii(or a camera with flash sync port). Neo 2/3 with the flash sync port will grant you LED with a flash. Great setup for portrait photography if you want on camera flash. expose for highlight and pull the shadows. great low light photography option. Just keep in mind LED can be blinding. So don't go full power when trying to use it to get focus.
A warning to those who plan doing this, the flash synch port on the a7r3 is known to be a weak point and a part from it tends to snap off. This had happened twice to the person who I bought my a7r3 from.
Jason thanks for this I am doing a low light portrait session today aswell as a day one today in Central London United Kingdom with my Nikon D5500 these tips I shall use. Stay blessed
Most enjoyable, fun and informative, thank you.
Grain... is GOOOD.
Thanks JV
Yep! It's official you da man, good stuff brother I'm picking up what your putting down, thanks for sharing, I'm sure if I continue to work hard my photos will start looking less like I used a 1970s Polaroid camera and more like J V's ✌️
Nice simple tips all in 5 minutes.
keeping it short and sweet!
Great suggestion on the histogram. Ill try that.
4:53 boosting the shadows will bring up all noise from dark image like that. Then you return shadows back just to hide all that noise. The only thing is useful is Full frame camera portable light, fast lens (f2.8 or f1.8) with stabilization with shutter speed usually 1/15.
Back in Japan? Welcome back ☺️
The (obvious) problem with an LED is you need an assistant to hold it (if you aren't shooting with a tripod/monopod).
Thanks a lot Jason, I really appreciate this.
I make flash diffusers out of empty plastic milk cartons. I can fold them any way from a single thickness to multiple thicknesses.
Thanks for the tips, so easy and practical.
great update
I finally watched this video. Oddly, like a Find Waldo momment, I found myself at 3:29. Great video, some really good points. I'll be heading to Japan again next week. Going to explore the Western part of Japan and maybe Fukouka in the South for this trip along with doing the Ikebukuro Halloween Cosplay Festival again this year. If I run into you again in Japan, I will buy you and your wife a drink.
This was actually good....
This video is fantastic
Great video!!! Depending on lens size, also try using slowest shutter speed that you can with without a tripod and avoid camera shake.
Great Video!
Great video as usual!
I hate the built in flash for everything except one thing: fill light in counter light. I never managed to get as even of a look with my speedlite mounted on the camera as with using the built in pop-up flash.
But for anything else, external, off-camera speedlites ftw!
Disneyland is the right place for learning photographie and making film 😍 I saw where you was... but not Disneyland paris !
Disneyland made me a better photographer haha! I went to Disneyland Paris last year! My Tamron 35-150mm Review has some footage there!
@@JasonVong Nice !!! is any video I can see disneyland Paris in your channel? Now I film DLP with a cinema rig on my AS7II .. I think I'm the only one youtuber in disneyland with this set 😜
tilta cage- tilta hand (focus and batterie npf 570 ) +16 35 zeiss f4 - tilta mirage with nucleus and VND + vfx blue streak + 5" feelworld monitor + tilta follow focus for zoom... 😁
Built in flash? Bounce it!
hey, great videos you are doing! wanted to ask if you can make a like detailed guide to low light street photography with setups and settings and stuff :)
Excellent video @JasonVong ! Very useful info. I definitely will look into getting some of the constant output LED lights. This time of year I rarely get off work before dark. I find if I want to do any shooting (almost always for fun), I will be in constant “negotiation” mode about how to set up exposure. I generally shoot with a Nikon Z6 and a Nikkor Z 24-70 MM F4 S Line lens. I sometimes use an f1.8 prime, but find compositionally, it is more limiting to be at fixed focal length than to shoot at F4 after dark. I have not figured out how to isolate a subject who is a good distance away using a 35 MM lens. I need more practice to understand the options with fixed length lenses at night.
niiiiiice tips 🤩🔥🙌
Bruh the algorithm, I just went out a did street photography with a friend last night 🤣🤣
Great content!
Very nice video. I love the tips u gave appreciate it alot thanks!
Banger vid as always, just in time for my 1st trip to japan!
Great tips indeed.
But for still photography and street lighting with neon lights all around similar to yours.
My camera has nop flash, so I wouldn’t be forced to use it..!
But…AV versus M..? ( canon 6d ii with a 24-70mmm f/2.8 lens )
ISO..?
Speed..?
F..stop setting..?
Always RAW, of course!
I’m curious to see what answers i get.
I would never be at your level, so the ad showed would be wasted on me sadly!
Good video, i actually learned something :)
Hello, great video! What native ISO did you set? 800-3200?
Thank you !
Thank you for the great video. I believe using a light source is not exactly a low light situation, I consider the introduction of a light source as light pollution. What is the best camera beyond Sony Alpha S series for true low light or near black out non IR conditions?
Thx! The last 2 are really helpful!
happy to hear that!
Great tips
This was really helpfull thx!
nice tuto
Very helpful video thanks.😀
for low light photography which lens do you prefer?
Is that Frame of Travel? Love their photography
Yes he is!
hahahah man had me choking on my food 🤣 WHERE IS HE!?
Jason I use Godox led lights on my Nikon D5500
So which focus mode should you shoot then ?
I got a d3300. Whats a good budget lens for long exp night photography like light painting and different things
Does flash compensation help with using on-camera flash?
good video. Thanks . The only thing is it is so fast its hard to read the comments that appear like the into about hair light. I am needing to replay and replay to read it all. Perhaps slow the info down?
Yet another killer vid Jason!
Question: do you have a video for shooting in harsh lighting? When the sun is at its peak?
I dont have a video on this! I don't often shoot in harsh lighting but i can collab with someone who does!
@@JasonVong Awesome! Looking forward to it!
What if i dont want to use any picture profile? Can i still get just as good low light results with shooting straight from the camera?
Just random thought, but what if you put duct tape on your built on flash to cover half of it, so it only fires from either the left or right? Would that give the subject more shadows than a full flash?
What is the name of the small flash or portable flash I don’t see it recommended, thank you.
Thankyou so much for this i am a new photographer and learning so much from you, do have any recommendation on how i can improve my sports photography pictures? i am using nikon D3100 is it to old? thanks
Excellent video. I definitely needed this. Hoping I could put these tips to work soon at Disney world.
You’re gonna have a blast! Disney always has great back drops!
@@JasonVong yeah, I’m excited.
What would you recommend for metering? Partial for portrait and matrix for total scene?
You use UV fliter?
I love the content
Bro you are the best dude you can be my teacher anytime bro
I'm confused if I'm filming in the dark should the minimum iso be at 12,800, or should the maximum be set at 12,800 ?
Max
Would love a colab with Pat Kay
You didn't mention anything about using a lens with a wider aperture or time exposures combined with flash
hey what's your opinion about the new fuji film XT 5 for low light photography
who found waldo?
Great tips!
How would you use the led if you’re solo?
great video thanks!
What’s the best iso for night
ruclips.net/video/1z-rq4RM2go/видео.html check out 9:29 !
@@JasonVong I just did thank you 🙌🏽🙌🏽🙏🏼
Another mistake is thinking you need an expensive full frame setup with bright glass. Use proper technique and even adapting f1.4 vintage glass can get you good results with APSC or MFT. Even phones can get good results. I’d also add go out in the rain, street lights, car lights or billboards look more vivid in the rain. Make your own Blade Runner pic 🤓
Surre, grab any cheap F0.75 lens w/o or with 1 layer of coating, get a shot, vomit, and forget photography or videography for rest of your life (as with astronomy with plastic 50 mm telescope). Cinema ppl so dumb inventing hundreds of layers of T-coating, Noctilux light path design trickering to avoid flare. But we, smart ppl do same with "skill". Damn liers. Night photo is most gear demanding thing that require insane amount of money to get rid of flare, Sony GM, selected Zeiss, insanely absurd coastly hand made Leika, ~20k NIkon, and you get your "skill".
@@AABB-px8lc sure whatever dude absolutely don’t dare try unless you’ve got 20k to spare. Just keep putting down other peoples work that you haven’t even seen (or were even invited to CC) and go ahead spending large sums of money…all sounds a little joyless to me though
Lol 1.4 is bright glass
@@LouieFerdinand but vintage bright is cheaper to start with no point blowing hundreds or even thousands on AF bright glass to then discover you don’t like night photography
If so, why do they add a flash?
At 4:00 setup is: 1/60 f2.8 iso 12,8k but how that pic was taken at 1/60 while movine in dark? Think is extreme importat the Body, with my setup at that settings will be just a mess blurred and with huge noise…
Or you can reduce the amount of the Flash light instead of using a napkin...
wasn't aware you can control the light output for the built-in camera flash - i will look into it!