I've found the 4 on a 40x40 base is just right for moving around terrain. They sit just nicely on bridges , roads , inside houses , inside cemeteries. Then fence lines and bush fences that run a different angle to your line that wants to fire they can be separate enough to still look good. I just go to 32 large unit , 24 average. 75x 50 for Cav and whatever for artillery. You will only need 2 per 4 regiments. Get a Horse artillery unit for your cavalry is a big tip
I understand that its a scale people play its not one that i have played i tried to cover 3 different scales i.e 28mm 15mm and 6mm. 1/72 is a great scale but i didnt want the video to drag on for to long, With all the different scales. Most other non historical systems will be used to 28mm or 15mm i.e 40k players for example i was trying to aim the video towards them. But cheers for the feedback.
I'm a 6mm general de armee player I have a 5 x 3 table and manage at least 20 - 30 units per side which still leaves gaps and open flanks. My 6mm battalion in line consistes of 54 figures for nations using 3 ranks or 36 figures for two ranks ( British and allies) The frontage of one of your battalions is 240mm.. where my frontage is 120mm ( two bases of 40 x20 and 2 x flank companies on 20 x 20 ). Also I know that black powder is not everyone's cup of tea. However if you try General de armee and do a comparison you'd be surprised in how black powder is a bit vanilla for a Napoleonic battle.
Agree general de armee is to me for a more advanced user that's why I recommend black powder to start and then move on to other rule systems. But big up the 6mm love it!
Don't forget about 10mm, 15mm, 15/18mm and even 20mm or 1/72. Plenty of scales for Napoleonic warfare gaming. Just depends on what the player wants as well as what some of the different gaming groups use. Plenty of other rules other than BP, which I don't find to be that great, that's my opinion. Age of Eagles, Napoleon's Battles, LaSalle, General d'Brigade, Et Sans Resultat! (ESR) to name a few.
Please revise...the grammar as it appears is self-contradictory and makes no sense. If it's worth making time to comment, might as well do so properly. (For all our sakes.) Thank you!
I'm currently doing ACW in 10 mm, which seems to be working well, but I suspect I'll want to scale up to 20 mm for Napoleonics-- those uniforms can only be displayed in their full majesty! Would be interesting to figure out how to play 20 mm in this one-bedroom apartment, though...
Expect years of painting an army, especially in larger scales. If you don't enjoy the painting aspect then what is the point? That's why I chose 1/72 scale because I can put in as much detail as I want (nearly so) which I find enjoyable. I may even move to 28mm so I can do even more but no way will I touch 2mm or 6mm as painting would become a chore. If you have gaming clubs go visit and watch games using various scales and rules. This way you can find opponents while you decide what is best for you. Also expect to spend most of your "extra" money on figures, paints, scenery and rule books. It is expensive any way you look at it so consider it all an investment in your gaming future.
This is really helpful. I’ve decided on 28 mm, but my biggest concern is the basing. I have no idea about rules sets or anything, so I want my figures to be able to be used across multiple systems. What’s the safest way to base my figs?
@@3dWargamer black powder and sharpes practice are the two I’ve looked at the most. With all the other miniature games out there, those models are on single bases. So you can usually use them for other games. But napoleonics seems to have multiple figures per base. I’d hate to go and put several on a base if they could only be used for one system
@@mattcappelli5822 most use multibases but sharp practice uses single bases so if you really want to have versatility I would base individually and have some baces tray fo them
Basing often is the hardest decision when starting. If you plan to play against armies owned by other players you usually want to match what they do. But it helps to remember 4 figures on a 40 mm square is identical to the same figures in individual 20mm squares or rounds (the modern UK penny is 20.3 mm diameter and magnetic, so you see a lot of figures on those). You can rank up those individual figures in trays to form easily moved units for mass battle games. Or In friendly skirmish games many players use their unit bases of 4 or 6 and place casualty markers to mark a partially depleted stand (anything from red beads or a red D6 or a set of painted fallen troopers). Edit - That said, i based my 28mm AWI on individual 1” rounds (25mm), 3D printed my own sabot bases to rank them up, and collected both sides so they will match. If I really needed to match someone else’s base sizes exactly I could make new sabots, though my number of figures might vary due to my wider spacing.
@@3dWargamer Lost track of this comment, sorry for the delay. Yeah, painting the ESR 10mm stuff was pretty fast and progress was made quickly. I still haven’t started work on my BP stuff as I’m fixated on a 15mm 7YW project that I end up feeling guilty about if I paint something other than this. 😂
15mm is a much better scale for Napoleonics. 28mm figures are TOO big and take up too much table space. There is a lot more room for nice looking terrain and maneuvering with 15s. And better figure manufacturers out there as well.
Agreed. Since I broke into tabletop Napoleonics miniatures in the middle-80's, 15mm are all our small Midwestern hobby shop club played--for versatility, affordability and looks. Way back then in the USA, Empire II and the ubiquitous 15mm Minifigs Napoleonics set the standard...but my word, Old Glory's 18mm-ish Blue Moon line is stunning, and can base up the same as 15mm. 15s are a visual and functional feast for the soul
if you have space problems it is . If you live ( and no idea why ) in a High rise just go 10mm. We have 10 chaps who use the gaming area of local modelling shop. I have put 3 folding Tables in the Garage before for a 8x 6 Table
I have a qustion am painting lot of napolonica from 1/72 scale my question is is 28 milimeter figures also possible to add to the 1/72 ones? Or is thier difrence in hight ?
Hi, Quick question if I want to put a skirmish game together what would be the best rule set. also a bit cheeky but for a beginner what army should I be looking at?
first 5 mins great basic stuff , then you say the 2 words which made me leave, "BLACK POWDER", dreadfull rules might as well call them warhammer horse and musket!
Fair play it's a good system for people looking to start naps with if they have never played wargaming and then can move on to more crunchy systems that why I recommend it for new players but thanks for you feedback.
Please please please you tubers we don’t care about your face. Just give us the relevant info. We don’t need to stare at your mug off angle and nearly out of frame for the entire video
Miniature Wargaming Warriors I liked the video I thought it was really helpful. I like the presentation style it’s more relaxed and personal. If you don’t like it don’t watch it.
I disagree on the point of jumping in with just the 'scale' study. PLAY loads of games with other people's minis. Don't have anyone around to game with? Then that's your real challenge. Better to put in the time of finding out what the others are using to play. Unless you are gonna solo game or want the challenge of constantly seeking players - trust me when I say that this is the real issue. Once you have decided on what game you want to do, then have chosen scale and decided to get some: BOTH SIDES get both sides of some tabletop battle action. Why? You will often become the host of games, so better to have BOTH SIDES of at least one battle before pushing to find a 'partner' to build only one part of a battle. Please note that you could do a skirmish game or even a sword duel and only need 2 (grand total) minis to get a game going. GO DEEP once the first battle is run on the tabletop a few times, expand on what you have and grow from there. This is why having the scale choice made early on is so important - it sets you on a certain pathway. Going really deep could mean having things like all the camp followers and supply trains. Maybe even going into details of the battlefield. check out more here: murdocksmarauders.blogspot.com/2022/01/new-player-advice-play-both-sides-go.html
28mm for me as i`m more of a painter than a wargamer so i like to be able to see what i paint
I feel exactly the same. Paint a lot, never play!
Mate, super helpful and informative. Always love a good "getting started" vid to keep communities going!
I've found the 4 on a 40x40 base is just right for moving around terrain. They sit just nicely on bridges , roads , inside houses , inside cemeteries. Then fence lines and bush fences that run a different angle to your line that wants to fire they can be separate enough to still look good. I just go to 32 large unit , 24 average. 75x 50 for Cav and whatever for artillery. You will only need 2 per 4 regiments. Get a Horse artillery unit for your cavalry is a big tip
No mention of 1/72 scale? The perfect balance of the detail, size, availability, and cost.
I understand that its a scale people play its not one that i have played i tried to cover 3 different scales i.e 28mm 15mm and 6mm. 1/72 is a great scale but i didnt want the video to drag on for to long, With all the different scales. Most other non historical systems will be used to 28mm or 15mm i.e 40k players for example i was trying to aim the video towards them. But cheers for the feedback.
I'm a 6mm general de armee player
I have a 5 x 3 table and manage at least 20 - 30 units per side which still leaves gaps and open flanks. My 6mm battalion in line consistes of 54 figures for nations using 3 ranks or 36 figures for two ranks ( British and allies)
The frontage of one of your battalions is 240mm.. where my frontage is 120mm ( two bases of 40 x20 and 2 x flank companies on 20 x 20 ).
Also I know that black powder is not everyone's cup of tea. However if you try General de armee and do a comparison you'd be surprised in how black powder is a bit vanilla for a Napoleonic battle.
Agree general de armee is to me for a more advanced user that's why I recommend black powder to start and then move on to other rule systems. But big up the 6mm love it!
Don't forget about 10mm, 15mm, 15/18mm and even 20mm or 1/72. Plenty of scales for Napoleonic warfare gaming. Just depends on what the player wants as well as what some of the different gaming groups use. Plenty of other rules other than BP, which I don't find to be that great, that's my opinion. Age of Eagles, Napoleon's Battles, LaSalle, General d'Brigade, Et Sans Resultat! (ESR) to name a few.
Don’t forget ‘Rank and File.’
I did 18 n 20mm ... BUT LOVE HOW 28MM POPS LOOKS GREAT AND CAN GET THE SAME AS 28 ON TABLE ....
Please revise...the grammar as it appears is self-contradictory and makes no sense. If it's worth making time to comment, might as well do so properly. (For all our sakes.) Thank you!
Project is coming along nicely mate, good job.
Thanks mate I am really enjoying them
28mm I’m starting, I’m a royal artillery simp
I'm currently doing ACW in 10 mm, which seems to be working well, but I suspect I'll want to scale up to 20 mm for Napoleonics-- those uniforms can only be displayed in their full majesty! Would be interesting to figure out how to play 20 mm in this one-bedroom apartment, though...
Expect years of painting an army, especially in larger scales. If you don't enjoy the painting aspect then what is the point? That's why I chose 1/72 scale because I can put in as much detail as I want (nearly so) which I find enjoyable. I may even move to 28mm so I can do even more but no way will I touch 2mm or 6mm as painting would become a chore. If you have gaming clubs go visit and watch games using various scales and rules. This way you can find opponents while you decide what is best for you. Also expect to spend most of your "extra" money on figures, paints, scenery and rule books. It is expensive any way you look at it so consider it all an investment in your gaming future.
This is really helpful. I’ve decided on 28 mm, but my biggest concern is the basing. I have no idea about rules sets or anything, so I want my figures to be able to be used across multiple systems. What’s the safest way to base my figs?
When you say mulitpule rule sets which ones did you have in mind? 40x40 is prob best but again what rules systems did you have in mind
@@3dWargamer black powder and sharpes practice are the two I’ve looked at the most. With all the other miniature games out there, those models are on single bases. So you can usually use them for other games. But napoleonics seems to have multiple figures per base. I’d hate to go and put several on a base if they could only be used for one system
@@mattcappelli5822 most use multibases but sharp practice uses single bases so if you really want to have versatility I would base individually and have some baces tray fo them
Basing often is the hardest decision when starting. If you plan to play against armies owned by other players you usually want to match what they do. But it helps to remember 4 figures on a 40 mm square is identical to the same figures in individual 20mm squares or rounds (the modern UK penny is 20.3 mm diameter and magnetic, so you see a lot of figures on those).
You can rank up those individual figures in trays to form easily moved units for mass battle games. Or In friendly skirmish games many players use their unit bases of 4 or 6 and place casualty markers to mark a partially depleted stand (anything from red beads or a red D6 or a set of painted fallen troopers).
Edit - That said, i based my 28mm AWI on individual 1” rounds (25mm), 3D printed my own sabot bases to rank them up, and collected both sides so they will match. If I really needed to match someone else’s base sizes exactly I could make new sabots, though my number of figures might vary due to my wider spacing.
Great information, thanks im just starting off
No problem glad it helped I'll be doing more of these types of videos.
Great intro, appreciate all the info!
I’ve got ESR and Black Powder. I’ve finished painting the ESR starter box, but haven’t started on the BP one.
Nice are you enjoying painting it and looking forward to the BP one?
@@3dWargamer Lost track of this comment, sorry for the delay. Yeah, painting the ESR 10mm stuff was pretty fast and progress was made quickly. I still haven’t started work on my BP stuff as I’m fixated on a 15mm 7YW project that I end up feeling guilty about if I paint something other than this. 😂
Penninsular British for me after I finish my AWI British.
I will be looking at penninsular war at some point just really like waterloo.
6mm Adler for the big historical battles!
Yes but a pain for people that are new with there ordering system that's why I didnt mention it
15mm is a much better scale for Napoleonics. 28mm figures are TOO big and take up too much table space. There is a lot more room for nice looking terrain and maneuvering with 15s. And better figure manufacturers out there as well.
Agreed. Since I broke into tabletop Napoleonics miniatures in the middle-80's, 15mm are all our small Midwestern hobby shop club played--for versatility, affordability and looks. Way back then in the USA, Empire II and the ubiquitous 15mm Minifigs Napoleonics set the standard...but my word, Old Glory's 18mm-ish Blue Moon line is stunning, and can base up the same as 15mm. 15s are a visual and functional feast for the soul
if you have space problems it is . If you live ( and no idea why ) in a High rise just go 10mm. We have 10 chaps who use the gaming area of local modelling shop. I have put 3 folding Tables in the Garage before for a 8x 6 Table
Great video very helpful for Napoleonic gamers!
Cheers mate may get you into it!
If your on the groups i am in i have loads of internet links to help with (I just dont do Prussians or spanish portugese)
Alot of very cool tips mate
Thanks, that was useful.
Glad that it helped
I have a qustion am painting lot of napolonica from 1/72 scale my question is is 28 milimeter figures also possible to add to the 1/72 ones? Or is thier difrence in hight ?
They are different hights 1/72 are 20mm
If I’m looking for heavier, more detailed rules, what do you recommend?
general de brigade
Republic to Empire. Great rules if you want to use them regularly. Not so good for occasional use.
@@samb2052 general d'armee - the update of general de brigade
Hi, Quick question if I want to put a skirmish game together what would be the best rule set. also a bit cheeky but for a beginner what army should I be looking at?
Shako and bayonets is what i would go for tules wise army to be honest what ever you fancy. I would start with french or Austrian.
@@3dWargamer Many thanks for your help. Now the fun begins...
Why did you go for 6 for a base, rather than 4 to a base, ie one for each company?
Just think of looked better 2 be honest
Because more figures can fit per base reducing clutter. But really it doesn’t matter that much
What is the series called please Ken also i enjoyed your introduction
O yes I'll put it in show notes now
Update show notes for you.
Love the videos and will continue to watch but I found this video really quiet.
Should be strange I have listened to it back sound ok u def got turned up?
@@3dWargamer up to the max mate.
Strange even on the windows audio tab part very strange nobody else has mentioned it sorry if it's made it bad for you to watch it.
@@3dWargamer not at all. Still enjoyed it! Ill check on another device mate
Same -same. Straining to hear at max volume. Ah well, the world's an imperfect place. The content was worth the effort! =)
thank you sir
No problem glad u liked it
6mm best rules general d'armee
10mm!
first 5 mins great basic stuff , then you say the 2 words which made me leave, "BLACK POWDER", dreadfull rules might as well call them warhammer horse and musket!
Fair play it's a good system for people looking to start naps with if they have never played wargaming and then can move on to more crunchy systems that why I recommend it for new players but thanks for you feedback.
was interested untill you said those 2 words.
Black Powder. How much are you paid to promote them?.
Nothing i wish i was paid to then i would not need to go to work.
Please please please you tubers we don’t care about your face. Just give us the relevant info. We don’t need to stare at your mug off angle and nearly out of frame for the entire video
Glad you liked it. Please dont feel you have to watch them. Have a great day ken
Miniature Wargaming Warriors I liked the video I thought it was really helpful. I like the presentation style it’s more relaxed and personal. If you don’t like it don’t watch it.
Cheers Callum like I say I am not forcing anyone to watch the video lol
I disagree on the point of jumping in with just the 'scale' study.
PLAY loads of games with other people's minis. Don't have anyone around to game with? Then that's your real challenge. Better to put in the time of finding out what the others are using to play. Unless you are gonna solo game or want the challenge of constantly seeking players - trust me when I say that this is the real issue.
Once you have decided on what game you want to do, then have chosen scale and decided to get some:
BOTH SIDES get both sides of some tabletop battle action. Why? You will often become the host of games, so better to have BOTH SIDES of at least one battle before pushing to find a 'partner' to build only one part of a battle. Please note that you could do a skirmish game or even a sword duel and only need 2 (grand total) minis to get a game going.
GO DEEP once the first battle is run on the tabletop a few times, expand on what you have and grow from there. This is why having the scale choice made early on is so important - it sets you on a certain pathway. Going really deep could mean having things like all the camp followers and supply trains. Maybe even going into details of the battlefield.
check out more here:
murdocksmarauders.blogspot.com/2022/01/new-player-advice-play-both-sides-go.html