Thank you for your kind words. I've built so many brackets like this that they seem simple at this point. There isn't too much to them, really; the speed holes make them look more complicated than they truly are.
@@MrJermbob Brackets remain one of my favorite pieces to build. The BOV trick is one of the most beneficial I've learned over the years. While I wish I had learned it sooner, I'm happy to have it in my arsenal now.
@@AlexLindner I might change my state of mind about brackets. Im going to say they are my most fave challenge to tackle and see how i feel about them going forward :) hehe.
Question on welding aluminum charge pipes... how much penetration is too much? I've been practicing, but I think I'm adding too much filler cause the bead significantly protrudes inside the tubing and my welds on the outside are relatively flat. Like, the bead on the inside bulges more than on the outside. I would imagine if the beads bulge too much on the inside that it'll reduce the effective inner diameter of the tubing. Then again, maybe that really doesn't matter. I suppose I could try to take a burr tool to the inside if it's too bad...
I, personally, don't worry much about too much penetration, but I can't see how much you're talking about. Getting full penetration is what you should be after, firstly. Then dial it back to where you're getting full pen, but not getting excessive reinforcement. Play with different size rods. I go between 1/16th and 3/32 4043, and they yield very different results. Anyways, that's just my $.02.
I wouldn't worry too much about over penetration on them unless it's incredibly excessive. Being that an intercooler tubing system is pressurized, air is being shoved into the engine as opposed to being solely sucked in as a naturally aspirated setup functions. As Brandy said, the goal should be full penetration as that's the most structurally sound way to join two pieces of tubing together. You can certainly port the penetrative ridge down on the inside of the tubing if you'd like, although I think your time is better spent elsewhere.
I've been curious about those Pegasus clamps. I'd love to hear how you like them after you've run them for a while. You mentioned you had one on the mk4. How long did you run it, and how much boost did it see?
I had good luck at 30-35psi with the one I had on the MKIV. I believe I ran it for a season before tearing the car apart for changes. I did boost leak test the SC300 out of curiosity and realized the O-rings included with these Pegasus assemblies don't seal very well which I suspected from the onset of this project. They aren't thick enough to offer enough of an interface between the ferrules and the sealing sleeve. I ordered authentic XRP O-rings to replace them which should hopefully solve that problem. If it works, it's an easy $50 fix that saves a significant amount of money over authentic Wiggins or XRP coupling assemblies, although those name brand assemblies are certainly higher quality overall.
@AlexLindner that tracks with what I've heard about some of the cheaper ones. It seems like theybdont some the o rings very well. I had a customer buy his own off Amazon (PQY brand), and he will be running around 40lbs of boost, I think, so it should be a good test. There is also a couple motion raceworks ones on the system, so I'm curious if he has any issues with any of them. We will find out next season, as the racing season is over in Alaska.
Thankfully they're simple devices that are easy to rectify if they don't work properly. The only ways they can really cause issues if aligned properly are if the O-rings don't interface with the sleeve well enough or if the clamp fails/comes off. Those PQY clamps look nearly identical to earlier versions of Vibrant's Vanjen assemblies. I suspect your customer will be fine with them. Alaska is a place I'd love to visit at some point.
Well, if I would have finished theblast 5 minutes of the videos, I would have seen you talk about the o rings haha! I'm excited to see the results if you do test them. If you come up here, I'd love to meet you! If you want to see some coop car events happening up here, 4th of July weekend is good. There's the the Glacierview car launches (look it up on RUclips if you don't know what I'm talking about), and 1320 has been coming up here the last 2 or 3 years on that weekend, in which some cool events at Alaska Raceway Park have spawned from (Alaskas only nhra drag strip). We had our first roll races this year and we had our second cash days no prep event at the end of the drag strip. Super cool. But of you're just looking to see the vast nature, anytime between June and July should be your best chances, weather wise. Fall is usually pretty wet, and springtime just ain't all that pretty haha. Regardless of everything I just said, you should absolutely come up here. I'd think that a glacier tour would be one of the most Alaska specific activities. If you come up here towards the end of the summer, you can do some fishing on the Kenai. The Kenai River is beautiful. Anyways, cheers! Hope you're feeling better!
I'm sure I'll go over the O-ring swap in an upcoming video. I've seen 1320's coverage of the car launch and drag strip. Their footage of the helicopter glacier tour in their most recent Alaska video looked amazing and is certainly a bucket list item now. It would be cool to put a face to a name if/when I do make the trip. It sounds like you'd be a good tour guide. I'm feeling much better now. I was down for about a week - it was the first time I've been truly sick in years. A funny story from it is the SC's throttle cable. I very badly wanted to get that bit squared away and powered through feeling like ass to do so. That day I ended up leaving the shop before noon, I believe, and retreated to the couch. I ended up finding out the chills I was having were the result of a 101° fever that I worked through but was in no mood to film. I felt like trash for a bit after playing around under the dash, but I wanted the throttle cable to be finished more than I didn't want to feel like garbage.
"Just gonna make simple locating tabs on each side" -proceeds to whip out some of the most beautiful brackets I've ever laid my eyes upon.
Thank you for your kind words. I've built so many brackets like this that they seem simple at this point. There isn't too much to them, really; the speed holes make them look more complicated than they truly are.
Nice job bro 👍
Thank you for your kind words.
I love the mounting brackets. Brackets are always so tricky and you do such a great job of it.
I will remember that welding on the blow off flange next time. Good tip that. Just failsafe a bit.
@@MrJermbob Brackets remain one of my favorite pieces to build. The BOV trick is one of the most beneficial I've learned over the years. While I wish I had learned it sooner, I'm happy to have it in my arsenal now.
@@AlexLindner I might change my state of mind about brackets. Im going to say they are my most fave challenge to tackle and see how i feel about them going forward :) hehe.
Thanks So much for the Info and lessons and peace be with you
It's my pleasure, thank you for your kind words and continued viewership.
really nice work mean hope I can weld ally like you soon.
Keep at it. Consistent practice is the only way I've found to progress with this skill set.
🔥🔥🔥
Thank you.
Question on welding aluminum charge pipes... how much penetration is too much? I've been practicing, but I think I'm adding too much filler cause the bead significantly protrudes inside the tubing and my welds on the outside are relatively flat. Like, the bead on the inside bulges more than on the outside. I would imagine if the beads bulge too much on the inside that it'll reduce the effective inner diameter of the tubing. Then again, maybe that really doesn't matter. I suppose I could try to take a burr tool to the inside if it's too bad...
I, personally, don't worry much about too much penetration, but I can't see how much you're talking about. Getting full penetration is what you should be after, firstly. Then dial it back to where you're getting full pen, but not getting excessive reinforcement. Play with different size rods. I go between 1/16th and 3/32 4043, and they yield very different results. Anyways, that's just my $.02.
I wouldn't worry too much about over penetration on them unless it's incredibly excessive. Being that an intercooler tubing system is pressurized, air is being shoved into the engine as opposed to being solely sucked in as a naturally aspirated setup functions. As Brandy said, the goal should be full penetration as that's the most structurally sound way to join two pieces of tubing together. You can certainly port the penetrative ridge down on the inside of the tubing if you'd like, although I think your time is better spent elsewhere.
Thanks for the input guys
I've been curious about those Pegasus clamps. I'd love to hear how you like them after you've run them for a while. You mentioned you had one on the mk4. How long did you run it, and how much boost did it see?
I had good luck at 30-35psi with the one I had on the MKIV. I believe I ran it for a season before tearing the car apart for changes. I did boost leak test the SC300 out of curiosity and realized the O-rings included with these Pegasus assemblies don't seal very well which I suspected from the onset of this project. They aren't thick enough to offer enough of an interface between the ferrules and the sealing sleeve. I ordered authentic XRP O-rings to replace them which should hopefully solve that problem. If it works, it's an easy $50 fix that saves a significant amount of money over authentic Wiggins or XRP coupling assemblies, although those name brand assemblies are certainly higher quality overall.
@AlexLindner that tracks with what I've heard about some of the cheaper ones. It seems like theybdont some the o rings very well. I had a customer buy his own off Amazon (PQY brand), and he will be running around 40lbs of boost, I think, so it should be a good test. There is also a couple motion raceworks ones on the system, so I'm curious if he has any issues with any of them. We will find out next season, as the racing season is over in Alaska.
Thankfully they're simple devices that are easy to rectify if they don't work properly. The only ways they can really cause issues if aligned properly are if the O-rings don't interface with the sleeve well enough or if the clamp fails/comes off. Those PQY clamps look nearly identical to earlier versions of Vibrant's Vanjen assemblies. I suspect your customer will be fine with them.
Alaska is a place I'd love to visit at some point.
Well, if I would have finished theblast 5 minutes of the videos, I would have seen you talk about the o rings haha! I'm excited to see the results if you do test them.
If you come up here, I'd love to meet you! If you want to see some coop car events happening up here, 4th of July weekend is good. There's the the Glacierview car launches (look it up on RUclips if you don't know what I'm talking about), and 1320 has been coming up here the last 2 or 3 years on that weekend, in which some cool events at Alaska Raceway Park have spawned from (Alaskas only nhra drag strip). We had our first roll races this year and we had our second cash days no prep event at the end of the drag strip. Super cool. But of you're just looking to see the vast nature, anytime between June and July should be your best chances, weather wise. Fall is usually pretty wet, and springtime just ain't all that pretty haha. Regardless of everything I just said, you should absolutely come up here. I'd think that a glacier tour would be one of the most Alaska specific activities. If you come up here towards the end of the summer, you can do some fishing on the Kenai. The Kenai River is beautiful. Anyways, cheers! Hope you're feeling better!
I'm sure I'll go over the O-ring swap in an upcoming video.
I've seen 1320's coverage of the car launch and drag strip. Their footage of the helicopter glacier tour in their most recent Alaska video looked amazing and is certainly a bucket list item now. It would be cool to put a face to a name if/when I do make the trip. It sounds like you'd be a good tour guide.
I'm feeling much better now. I was down for about a week - it was the first time I've been truly sick in years. A funny story from it is the SC's throttle cable. I very badly wanted to get that bit squared away and powered through feeling like ass to do so. That day I ended up leaving the shop before noon, I believe, and retreated to the couch. I ended up finding out the chills I was having were the result of a 101° fever that I worked through but was in no mood to film. I felt like trash for a bit after playing around under the dash, but I wanted the throttle cable to be finished more than I didn't want to feel like garbage.