Greg Olson Good point! Yes safety is important and we will be sure to get jack stands. Hopefully they read the comments and take some advice from you guys also.
Jackstands are definitely important but at least they weren't beneath a low import while the car is on jackstands. I was thinking the same as well til I realized they never got underneath the Jeep so I didn't think it was a big deal :P
The drilled/slotted usually slip cleaner, but it's highly recommended you clean new rotors thoroughly (brake cleaner, then soap and water) to remove machining debris and oils. And of course, USE JACK STANDS!
Here's a tip, before you take the calipers off take a pry bar and pry in between the pad and rotor to compress the pistons that way you dont have to use a clamp, lol it will same a lot of time
I just installed StopTech's Sport Select Slotted and Drilled Rotors and pads that came with them just in the front on my WRX and the stopping power is a lot better, installed myself. Only $177 for the front kit. I've been installing parts myself for about 4 months now because it was just too expensive to do what I want at a shop and I've installed a lot of parts, mostly suspension and it's really not that difficult. Anyone out there looking to save some money, consider watching a video on how to install something and decide within your ability or not. For suspension, it usually will be.
@@SaintChicagoJay feels good knowing you got it done and saving yourself some money huh!! I’ve bin watching, helping, and wrenching since I was a lil boy. Now at 31 I pretty much do it all I even got into going in on motorcycles.
Seriously...i went to the shop and they were quoting $1200 for front and rear brakes and rotors... when i bought front and rear brakes and rotors on my own for $360. I saved $840 for opting to get the parts on my own and do thr job myself!
Safety guys!! don't start to work on the front of your Jeep with just the lop-sided trolley jack holding it up!! put it on jack/axle stands first before starting to work!
Or at the very least, lay the wheels on their inside surfaces under the frame rails. Better to loose an expensive, oversized rim than to have a 1,500 lb wheel hub land on your balls.
Great video thanks for sharing if I may add I've had Jack's fail on their own before nice brand new ones really dangerous to go under a car and do anything with just the Jack holding it it could slip out and so on jack stands or something else to support the vehicle with the jack, I know you didn't ask for opinions but since this is a public RUclips video I thought to add on with y'all ready skill and knowledge
Drilled rotors have a design flaw, they are known to crack under pressure. The same can be said for nearly any type of rotor but the drilling process causes a few fundamental issues, most notable micro fractures in the rotors (which has been improved by better manufacturing and improvements in the drilling process) but this is a all to common issue with no name brands. Another issue is rotors expand and contract slightly once in use, this is very minor in day to day usage but over time it does add up (especially if the rotors are cheap and the drilling was poor) this encourages them the crack along the drill marks. You can find photos all over the net of rotors that came to this type of demise it's a common issue with cheaper rotors, slotting was the solution to this as it allowed for the rotors to cool without the risk of cheaper rotors having the same faults of cheaper drilled rotors. You may think drilling isn't a issue but it's highly recommended to avoid them in towing applications and racing (the same type of stuff they where designed to benefit by improved cooling). Slotted tho are far more stable and while not perfect either (less contact area along with eating pads quicker) they are a more viable solution. You wanna try and avoid these types of rotors tho if you plan to use ceramic pads ... idk they are always bundled but slotting and drilling do effectively cool a rotor but ceramic pads work best hot (a good bit warmer than normal pads) so the extra cooling will effect their braking performance. If you ever watch a race and you see glowing red rotors it's because they are using ceramic pads, they produce more heat and benefit from it but by using slotting/drilled rotors with ceramic pads you effectively defeat the advantage of both (better cooling, and better braking when hot).
Any motorcyclist who has ridden with basic rotors vs. those which are drilled and slotted can tell you the difference on braking while wet. However, drilled and slotted rotors will not greatly improve braking performance if there is insufficient time for the limited additional cooling effect to lower temperatures. Once the rotors are glowing from excess heat the only remedy is to avoid using the brakes until they cool down.
Dokk Tekk yeah but they take a decent amount of hard braking to get up to an optimal temperature for any benefit. If you’re just driving on the street there really isn’t a point. Plus they are much more expensive than the other types.
Nice jeep. Agree with the Jack stand comments as well as chocking those wheels. I would be careful using your air impact wrench to completely tighten those lug nuts. You will over torque them. Better off final tightening to torque spec by hand with a torque wrench.
Giacomo Battilana Ferla Yea safety is important! Mainly if your going to be crawling under the rig. We’ll be sure to be safer next time. Hope you get that excellent stopping power
You’re not suppose to come to a complete stop when breaking the rotor in. Go up to 30-40mph brake moderate down to 5-10mph then back up to 30-40mph and repeat
Jack stands and don't let the caliper hang from the line and be pulling those lines either. Always check brake fluid level in reservoir also, and follow manufacturer's procedures for new rotors.
Man....I am thinking about get some of these so I just on the old "You find it Tube" and low and behold I see the family....... Goonzquad boys!!!!! Man Thomas was soooo small. #humblebeginning
My beagles name was the name "buddy" also I see your German shepherd is named buddy. Had to put him too sleep yesterday 😢 he rode with me on the truck over the road. He was a good boy y'all give buddy a hug for me and Thomas ok thanks for the videos guys
Blank rotors have more metal and therefore can handle more heat. Blanks also have more surface area and brake better because more pad surface is on the rotor.
I have tried the drilled and slotted and you have to clean them out - those holes get gunked up with brake dust and no more hole/ventilation/cooling. Also watch out if you get a pebble in those holes it will chew up the pads. The best way to increase stopping power is probably just getting better/bigger calipers and pads/rotors. What do you think? I read the directions on how to break in new brakes and I'm pretty sure that it is breaking from 40ish down to 5-10 without stopping and repeat a bunch of times. You may look like a crazy person and annoy anyone driving behind you but the brakes will be good to go lol!
The ACDelco Drilled & Slotted rotors as installed on the famous 95 MERC are marked "L" and "R" because they ARE directional, which means that the slots wipe the pads properly, which does not allow the slots to clog up. My ACDelco Drilled & Slotted Rotors have been in service for nearly eight (8) years, with no clogging of the slots or the holes. These rotors work best with the Motorcraft Severe Service Brake Pads. www.mercuryforum.com/forum/grand-marquis-14/1995-grand-marquis-restoration-8937/
Drilled & Slotted Rotors should be marked with "L" for left, and "R" for right side positioning. My ACDelco rotors were marked -- with no chance to get 'em on the wrong side.
@@abc1099 My rotors are high-performance rotors made especially for severe service on POLICE interceptors. They were marked "L" and "R" at the ACDelco manufacturing facility. These rotors ARE DIRECTIONAL, and the direction of rotation DOES matter. Yes, there are several brands of rotors which claim to be non-directional, but tthe FACT is that the slots ARE directional, and it DOES matter the direction of wheel rotation -- it effects the dissipation of the gasses from the brake pads. Your notion that ALL drilled & slotted rotors are non-directional is blatantly incorrect. www.mercuryforum.com/forum/grand-marquis-14/1995-grand-marquis-restoration-8937/
Should always clean new rotors off with brake clean, bc they are shipped with a protective oil coating to prevent rusting during delivery and can mess up the new pads
I just did the same thing on my 2013 JK (might even be the exact same set), and they have been noticeably better. I upgraded the lines and all new fluid, and it stops like a champ.
Hot tip, if you have an older vehicle or they salt the roads in winter where you live, make sure you clean your hubs before you swap the new rotors on. Even a millimeter of rust or debris can cause uneven wear on your new rotors and deform your pads because of uneven contact. Can even cause warping if it's really bad. Drill with a wire brush and a healthy amount of brake cleaner until it's clean all around, a thin layer of high heat anti sieze never hurt anybody neither.not an issue on a newer vehicle like this, but good to remember as she ages.
These slotted and drilled rotors are shipped to auto parts store aka (white box rotors) in turn performance wise the slotted and drilled are excellent on cars smooth rotors are better for truck application also slots and those drill holes will fill with brake dust and cause rust build up causing rotors to eventually crack
Did you clean the oil off the rotors that keeps them from rusting in shipping? I assume you did, but I'd highlight that as a step for a video about brakes. I followed a guide for brakes in the past that didn't say to clean the oil off the rotors/drums and so I didn't and the parking brake never really worked and likely the rear brakes didn't do much stopping at all. Luckily I only did the rear brakes at that time. Happily I've since known about the oil on the rotors and my most recent brake job was quite successful.
I enjoy watching your videos. Keeping it real with the community and doing positive things. You guys are gonna make it to the big leagues. keep it up! lets see another truck in the future
Hey bro, from Cali. I like the fact that you guys kept it true with where you’re from! I believe more people need to take pride in that shit! Because people out here, don’t respect people who simply try to adapt to us! Be real
Depends if you have disk and drums brakes but If you have all disk brakes yea because when you brake all the force goes to front which is why front rotors are bigger than the rear but if you want to make it easier on the brakes due change all around. It's like if to say you changed only one rotor on one side and you drive and brake that new side is gonna work harder than the old side causing it to press harder and wear it down faster while pulling to that side. But no If you use the stock rear brakes your fine because the front is what does the most braking.
With experience with customers cars, I work on the slots of the rotors pack in with brake dust and prematurely wear out the pads. Also you guys should look into the WJ grand cherokee 2 piston caliper swap you swap the knuckles hub and uses a WJ rotor and just back drill the WJ rotor against the D30 TJ XJ MX rotor
Great vid ! Have a question i recently installed 7 inch lift with 37’s , every time I hit brakes they seem to pulse like a jerk and when I let go of brakes it jerks also , any idea?
DOT 3 Brake Fluid is not suitable for high-performance applications. Minimum upgrade is DOT 4, but the new Bosch ESI6-32N has the the highest boiling point of any non-silicone brake fluid that's currently available. The new Bosch fluid is compatible with Dot 3, Dot 4, and DOT 5.1. If you rely on your brakes, this ESI6 is the right stuff !
Do you guys keep you vehicles, or do you sell them, if so can you make videos on the wheeling and dealing of the vehicles, would be nice to know what you paid, how much it cost to rebuild and how much you get for them.
Hi, think these will be good on a Land Rover discovery 4 with 22” wheels ? About to buy a set with brembo brake pads, I asked on the Land Rover forum and just got shot down from the original activists, might have something to do with me asking about an ls swap as well though 😂
I always said why when I get in the car it stops instantly but as I drive for a while it feels like I have to press longer.. I'm gonna try the drilled rotors
Installing larger caliper wouldn't help much with stoping what it could do make the front lock up which in a corner can cause snap over steer what would help is stopping is haven larger rotor for example going from a rotor that has a 11in diameter to a 12in diameter or larger rotor
Any debris that might get in the slots & rotors is thrown off by centrifugal force -- not a problem. I have been running ACDelco Drilled & Slotted Rotors for several years, with "Police" Severe-Duty Brake Pads and D.O.T. 4 Brake Fluid. Great for long-distance, hi-speed touring.
Curious what brand ceramics you guys used. I gave up on ceramics on my LJ and switched to carbon-metallic. More brake dust, noise, and rotor wear but they stop better than the auto parts store ceramic. Stay out of the mud with those fancy drilled and slotted rotors, just asking for grit to get into your pads. Keep your eyes out for some WJ knuckles at your local salvage yard. Have to swap one ball joint per side, get some weld on unit bearing spacers, modify steering linkage, and re-drill the WJ rotors but gets you true crossover high-steer and bigger brakes and calipers.
@@texmextu2 yes we decided to leave the rotors on and change them maby next year. I did some research and found that drilled rotors are not necessary these days because of better pads.
There is no right answer to that question -- Google "Brake Pad Break-In" and check with the Pros. Some brake pad & rotor sets come with break-in instructions.
For bigger tyres,bigger disk brakes and calippers helps.This its just a waste of money.Tested and tested again,not much of a difference,so in my opinion,its just a waste of money
goonzquad As an offroader driver,they are uselles.Bigger tyres needs bigger disk brakes and callipers,thats the law of fizic.If you want to do a research,have a look on the racing cars.The bigger the wheel,the bigger are the disk brakes.And what I am sayng its tested in the field,where brakes are really stressed and abused.Those vented disk brakes,where an improvement for the stock ryres,not for oversized wheels
Cross-drilled brake disks are a hangover from the days when pads were made from inferior materials 30+ years ago when the old pads heated up gases would be emitted from the pads causing brake performance degradation so hole where drill in the disks to dissipate the gases. With modern materials this no longer necessary cross drilled disk are probably less effective than sold one because of slightly less surface area.
looks like your rear new rotor is solid no cooling fines You might want to try EBC green stuff brake pads I did and my Jk stops on a dime But I only have 33 with drilled and slotted rotors
As everyone else said, Jackstands! There are a lot of kids who watch this and they will follow your lead..
Greg Olson Good point! Yes safety is important and we will be sure to get jack stands. Hopefully they read the comments and take some advice from you guys also.
dont worry hes got a goonzquad hat, he’s immortal
Jackstands are definitely important but at least they weren't beneath a low import while the car is on jackstands.
I was thinking the same as well til I realized they never got underneath the Jeep so I didn't think it was a big deal :P
Hi, I too in my channel I take these videos, soon I will do this work on my car;)
Sounds like what I tell me dad all the damn time. They are sitting just on the other side of the garage 🤷♂️
Legend has it, he can still be heard explaining how rotors heat up and lose stopping power.
Really just wear out faster. Tires and clean fluid are more important for performance than any rotor.
On them big 35ss
@@jdigitalseven7 Uhm no - not actually
The drilled/slotted usually slip cleaner, but it's highly recommended you clean new rotors thoroughly (brake cleaner, then soap and water) to remove machining debris and oils. And of course, USE JACK STANDS!
just a little tip I’m sure you guys know. Try not to let the caliper hang it can ruin brake lines even though you have those hefty ones on the front.
Here's a tip, before you take the calipers off take a pry bar and pry in between the pad and rotor to compress the pistons that way you dont have to use a clamp, lol it will same a lot of time
I just installed StopTech's Sport Select Slotted and Drilled Rotors and pads that came with them just in the front on my WRX and the stopping power is a lot better, installed myself. Only $177 for the front kit. I've been installing parts myself for about 4 months now because it was just too expensive to do what I want at a shop and I've installed a lot of parts, mostly suspension and it's really not that difficult. Anyone out there looking to save some money, consider watching a video on how to install something and decide within your ability or not. For suspension, it usually will be.
Right there with you … 3 months installing my own parts for the first time in my life at age 29. Long overdue
@@SaintChicagoJay feels good knowing you got it done and saving yourself some money huh!! I’ve bin watching, helping, and wrenching since I was a lil boy. Now at 31 I pretty much do it all I even got into going in on motorcycles.
Seriously...i went to the shop and they were quoting $1200 for front and rear brakes and rotors... when i bought front and rear brakes and rotors on my own for $360. I saved $840 for opting to get the parts on my own and do thr job myself!
Safety guys!! don't start to work on the front of your Jeep with just the lop-sided trolley jack holding it up!! put it on jack/axle stands first before starting to work!
Put some jack stands under there, kinda sketch
Or at the very least, lay the wheels on their inside surfaces under the frame rails. Better to loose an expensive, oversized rim than to have a 1,500 lb wheel hub land on your balls.
he has gloves, it's safe bro
there kids.
Right I was thinking the same thing I've had Jack's fail before
Great video thanks for sharing if I may add I've had Jack's fail on their own before nice brand new ones really dangerous to go under a car and do anything with just the Jack holding it it could slip out and so on jack stands or something else to support the vehicle with the jack, I know you didn't ask for opinions but since this is a public RUclips video I thought to add on with y'all ready skill and knowledge
Drilled rotors have a design flaw, they are known to crack under pressure. The same can be said for nearly any type of rotor but the drilling process causes a few fundamental issues, most notable micro fractures in the rotors (which has been improved by better manufacturing and improvements in the drilling process) but this is a all to common issue with no name brands. Another issue is rotors expand and contract slightly once in use, this is very minor in day to day usage but over time it does add up (especially if the rotors are cheap and the drilling was poor) this encourages them the crack along the drill marks.
You can find photos all over the net of rotors that came to this type of demise it's a common issue with cheaper rotors, slotting was the solution to this as it allowed for the rotors to cool without the risk of cheaper rotors having the same faults of cheaper drilled rotors. You may think drilling isn't a issue but it's highly recommended to avoid them in towing applications and racing (the same type of stuff they where designed to benefit by improved cooling). Slotted tho are far more stable and while not perfect either (less contact area along with eating pads quicker) they are a more viable solution. You wanna try and avoid these types of rotors tho if you plan to use ceramic pads ... idk they are always bundled but slotting and drilling do effectively cool a rotor but ceramic pads work best hot (a good bit warmer than normal pads) so the extra cooling will effect their braking performance.
If you ever watch a race and you see glowing red rotors it's because they are using ceramic pads, they produce more heat and benefit from it but by using slotting/drilled rotors with ceramic pads you effectively defeat the advantage of both (better cooling, and better braking when hot).
Well stated. Thanks
What about sanding down the wheel hub to get rid of that rust? Wouldn't that cause brake pulsation if you do not do it?
Any motorcyclist who has ridden with basic rotors vs. those which are drilled and slotted can tell you the difference on braking while wet. However, drilled and slotted rotors will not greatly improve braking performance if there is insufficient time for the limited additional cooling effect to lower temperatures. Once the rotors are glowing from excess heat the only remedy is to avoid using the brakes until they cool down.
Carbon ceramic pads will resist heat more. I use them on my cars. They hold up really well in the canyons especially, no brake fade due to heat.
Dokk Tekk yeah but they take a decent amount of hard braking to get up to an optimal temperature for any benefit. If you’re just driving on the street there really isn’t a point. Plus they are much more expensive than the other types.
I'd feel a lot more comfortable if you had a couple more jacks under that axle....
Talez From the DashCam that’s true but since we we’re crawling under it, should be fine. More safety coming soon
A couple more? He didnt have any. Just a jack. He needs a couple before he get a couple more
Safety last, I guess!
@Dino Ververis look at there channel now. I don't think there afraid to get their hands dirty. You spoke to soon.
@@goonzquadbro your dog was sitting under it ….
Nice jeep. Agree with the Jack stand comments as well as chocking those wheels. I would be careful using your air impact wrench to completely tighten those lug nuts. You will over torque them. Better off final tightening to torque spec by hand with a torque wrench.
You need a big brake kit for them tires. Also thanks for showing love to the Mexican. Says a lot in these times we are in.
come on guys! safety! use them jackstands! I'm trying the powerstop kit for my dad's expedition....hope they improve!
Giacomo Battilana Ferla Yea safety is important! Mainly if your going to be crawling under the rig. We’ll be sure to be safer next time. Hope you get that excellent stopping power
Also shouldn't let the calipers hang on the hose!
You’re not suppose to come to a complete stop when breaking the rotor in. Go up to 30-40mph brake moderate down to 5-10mph then back up to 30-40mph and repeat
Jack stands and don't let the caliper hang from the line and be pulling those lines either.
Always check brake fluid level in reservoir also, and follow manufacturer's procedures for new rotors.
I tried them on my TJ. They offered no more stopping power over stock and the pads wore out quicker.
Man....I am thinking about get some of these so I just on the old "You find it Tube" and low and behold I see the family....... Goonzquad boys!!!!! Man Thomas was soooo small. #humblebeginning
My beagles name was the name "buddy" also I see your German shepherd is named buddy. Had to put him too sleep yesterday 😢 he rode with me on the truck over the road. He was a good boy y'all give buddy a hug for me and Thomas ok thanks for the videos guys
chad harmon Im sorry to hear that man. Respect for Buddy 👊🏽
chad harmon Sorry to hear that! I’ll be sure to give buddy a big ole hug for you!
@@goonzquad
Nice! If they hold up on a jeep that size the ones i ordered for my hatch back small car will do fine.
Blank rotors have more metal and therefore can handle more heat. Blanks also have more surface area and brake better because more pad surface is on the rotor.
Detroit axles set from Amazon right? Just had mines installed and I love em!!07 jgc laredo 3.7 sick rig brah!
I have tried the drilled and slotted and you have to clean them out - those holes get gunked up with brake dust and no more hole/ventilation/cooling. Also watch out if you get a pebble in those holes it will chew up the pads. The best way to increase stopping power is probably just getting better/bigger calipers and pads/rotors. What do you think? I read the directions on how to break in new brakes and I'm pretty sure that it is breaking from 40ish down to 5-10 without stopping and repeat a bunch of times. You may look like a crazy person and annoy anyone driving behind you but the brakes will be good to go lol!
The ACDelco Drilled & Slotted rotors as installed on the famous 95 MERC are marked "L" and "R" because they ARE directional, which means that the slots wipe the pads properly, which does not allow the slots to clog up.
My ACDelco Drilled & Slotted Rotors have been in service for nearly eight (8) years, with no clogging of the slots or the holes.
These rotors work best with the Motorcraft Severe Service Brake Pads.
www.mercuryforum.com/forum/grand-marquis-14/1995-grand-marquis-restoration-8937/
Drilled & Slotted Rotors should be marked with "L" for left, and "R" for right side positioning.
My ACDelco rotors were marked -- with no chance to get 'em on the wrong side.
No. Just no. They are not directional. Unless specifically marked as directional, slots do not matter what direction they face
@@abc1099 My rotors are high-performance rotors made especially for severe service on POLICE interceptors. They were marked "L" and "R" at the ACDelco manufacturing facility.
These rotors ARE DIRECTIONAL, and the direction of rotation DOES matter.
Yes, there are several brands of rotors which claim to be non-directional, but tthe FACT is that the slots ARE directional, and it DOES matter the direction of wheel rotation -- it effects the dissipation of the gasses from the brake pads.
Your notion that ALL drilled & slotted rotors are non-directional is blatantly incorrect.
www.mercuryforum.com/forum/grand-marquis-14/1995-grand-marquis-restoration-8937/
How do you get brake fade on a Jeep? What kind of crappy brakes did you fit to it before?
always degrease those before using because they are usually coated with a thin coat of oil for protection!
Should always clean new rotors off with brake clean, bc they are shipped with a protective oil coating to prevent rusting during delivery and can mess up the new pads
Crazy I found a OG goonzsquad video 😅
respect, you guys reminded me of my group back in the 90s and you got yourself another sub. A++++++
I just did the same thing on my 2013 JK (might even be the exact same set), and they have been noticeably better. I upgraded the lines and all new fluid, and it stops like a champ.
How long do they last till you have to change them slotted rotors with new ones?
Glad to see you helping fellow Jeepers out! Good Video!
Hot tip, if you have an older vehicle or they salt the roads in winter where you live, make sure you clean your hubs before you swap the new rotors on. Even a millimeter of rust or debris can cause uneven wear on your new rotors and deform your pads because of uneven contact. Can even cause warping if it's really bad. Drill with a wire brush and a healthy amount of brake cleaner until it's clean all around, a thin layer of high heat anti sieze never hurt anybody neither.not an issue on a newer vehicle like this, but good to remember as she ages.
These slotted and drilled rotors are shipped to auto parts store aka (white box rotors) in turn performance wise the slotted and drilled are excellent on cars smooth rotors are better for truck application also slots and those drill holes will fill with brake dust and cause rust build up causing rotors to eventually crack
Y’all put a lot of faith in that jack to not put any jack stands!
he did not read the fine prints on the jack....
Right
I know its a weird question but what is the song that yall were playing in the jeep at 7:19?
Tyler Langley honestly don’t know
Did you clean the oil off the rotors that keeps them from rusting in shipping? I assume you did, but I'd highlight that as a step for a video about brakes. I followed a guide for brakes in the past that didn't say to clean the oil off the rotors/drums and so I didn't and the parking brake never really worked and likely the rear brakes didn't do much stopping at all. Luckily I only did the rear brakes at that time. Happily I've since known about the oil on the rotors and my most recent brake job was quite successful.
That’s ur fault bud
You Guys built a very nice looking jeeps very Detailed👍
I like these old style goonzquad videos
I enjoy watching your videos. Keeping it real with the community and doing positive things. You guys are gonna make it to the big leagues. keep it up! lets see another truck in the future
In USA you can go on the road with cracked wind schield?
Hey bro, from Cali. I like the fact that you guys kept it true with where you’re from! I believe more people need to take pride in that shit! Because people out here, don’t respect people who simply try to adapt to us! Be real
how do 20 something year old kids afford such nice rides that took me my whole life to buy
Wait til you see their recent videos and the fleet they got now!
Why you got ya brake calipers hanging from the brake cable?
I just put some new ones on and I'm hearing a loud humming when I stop. What is this??
Is it dangerous if you only change the front brake with the big brake and rear use back the original brake?
Depends if you have disk and drums brakes but If you have all disk brakes yea because when you brake all the force goes to front which is why front rotors are bigger than the rear but if you want to make it easier on the brakes due change all around. It's like if to say you changed only one rotor on one side and you drive and brake that new side is gonna work harder than the old side causing it to press harder and wear it down faster while pulling to that side. But no If you use the stock rear brakes your fine because the front is what does the most braking.
Very nice upgrade!
We have a saying:
What you can't brake, you can't argue about..
it's a straight translation but you get the point.. 😁
Also, I absolutely love your new helper Thomas 😊
With experience with customers cars, I work on the slots of the rotors pack in with brake dust and prematurely wear out the pads. Also you guys should look into the WJ grand cherokee 2 piston caliper swap you swap the knuckles hub and uses a WJ rotor and just back drill the WJ rotor against the D30 TJ XJ MX rotor
how come the wheel size affects brakes ? You have 33 inch and you need bigger brakes ?
In the rust belt those rotor rust after on season....better rotors will have a black or grey z clad ecoat on them
yo man from were you got those @goonzquad
Hey from Calgary, Canada. Do you guys have a link or a brand name for those brakes? My TJ doesn't stop worth a shit. Great vids and nice clean work!
I just ordered some of those slotted-drilled rotors for my Ford Windstar Beast, lol. But seriously, anything is an upgrade for a Windstar.
All these comments an no one mentions that the rotation is incorrect on his install?... rotation goes against... not with (swap left and right) 🧐
are you serious right now?? they are installed correctly!!! rotation not supposed to go against.... smh...
Look it up :Ryan Beatie is correct
Great vid ! Have a question i recently installed 7 inch lift with 37’s , every time I hit brakes they seem to pulse like a jerk and when I let go of brakes it jerks also , any idea?
Warped rotors. Resurface with a fine grind or replace.
Anybody know if drilled in Canada’s winter is a good idea? I’ve heard about ice and stuff getting into the holes and shaking the car
What size tires are those again?
Where is the video where you install the light bar on the hood of the jeep?
Where can I buy them hats your wearing in the video?
Goonzquad at it again in the early vids....just upgraded to drill and slotted myself and the upgrade is 100% worth the money
How about just drilled rotors that are black coated? Any thoughts on those?
Did you change out your DOT fluid or it stayed the same like dot3 to dot4?
DOT 3 Brake Fluid is not suitable for high-performance applications.
Minimum upgrade is DOT 4, but the new Bosch ESI6-32N has the the highest boiling point of any non-silicone brake fluid that's currently available.
The new Bosch fluid is compatible with Dot 3, Dot 4, and DOT 5.1.
If you rely on your brakes, this ESI6 is the right stuff !
Do you guys keep you vehicles, or do you sell them, if so can you make videos on the wheeling and dealing of the vehicles, would be nice to know what you paid, how much it cost to rebuild and how much you get for them.
I was thinking about putting some on my chrysler 300. I ride with 22s so it should be a nice change! Thanks for the vid fellas! God bless you!!
Do you guys like those fenders? I am looking at getting some but thought I'd ask.
Hi, think these will be good on a Land Rover discovery 4 with 22” wheels ? About to buy a set with brembo brake pads, I asked on the Land Rover forum and just got shot down from the original activists, might have something to do with me asking about an ls swap as well though 😂
Wow! You two have come a long ways since this build!
What size are them tires?? I think you forgot to mention it. Seriously just let the caliper hang. Nice
Going through life with my Jeep. Nothing better.
The holes and slots are great for storing rocks and mud !!👍
you guys are my favorite channel very in depth with you're projects!
I always said why when I get in the car it stops instantly but as I drive for a while it feels like I have to press longer.. I'm gonna try the drilled rotors
My boys always making great content getting recognized by people out in public that's awesome there is no limit with you guys keep going
Installing larger caliper wouldn't help much with stoping what it could do make the front lock up which in a corner can cause snap over steer what would help is stopping is haven larger rotor for example going from a rotor that has a 11in diameter to a 12in diameter or larger rotor
When the vehicle falls on your arm or leg and the bone comes out through the skin, then you'll remember.
What happens when you are
off-roading and mud and dirt get into the holes and slots? Wouldn’t it make it less functional?
Any debris that might get in the slots & rotors is thrown off by centrifugal force -- not a problem.
I have been running ACDelco Drilled & Slotted Rotors for several years, with "Police" Severe-Duty Brake Pads and D.O.T. 4 Brake Fluid. Great for long-distance, hi-speed touring.
They you let the caliper dangle on the brake hose.... especially wiith that one having a angled fitting....
Curious what brand ceramics you guys used. I gave up on ceramics on my LJ and switched to carbon-metallic. More brake dust, noise, and rotor wear but they stop better than the auto parts store ceramic. Stay out of the mud with those fancy drilled and slotted rotors, just asking for grit to get into your pads. Keep your eyes out for some WJ knuckles at your local salvage yard. Have to swap one ball joint per side, get some weld on unit bearing spacers, modify steering linkage, and re-drill the WJ rotors but gets you true crossover high-steer and bigger brakes and calipers.
It also creates a gas that forms between the rotor and pads.
So you didn't do temp test, old vs new?
I put some of those on our 07 honda accord they roar when you come to a hard stop wonder y?
Kevin honey I’ve had same issue on a Nissan Murano , weird noise when stopping
@@texmextu2 yes we decided to leave the rotors on and change them maby next year. I did some research and found that drilled rotors are not necessary these days because of better pads.
Thanks for making this video can't wait to get my own set
Just ordered a 4 set of drilled and slotted. How many break in miles?
There is no right answer to that question -- Google "Brake Pad Break-In" and check with the Pros. Some brake pad & rotor sets come with break-in instructions.
Remember to stay humble when you guys hit 1 Mil
For bigger tyres,bigger disk brakes and calippers helps.This its just a waste of money.Tested and tested again,not much of a difference,so in my opinion,its just a waste of money
RC Addict It makes a huge difference trust me, the drilled and slotted work great
goonzquad As an offroader driver,they are uselles.Bigger tyres needs bigger disk brakes and callipers,thats the law of fizic.If you want to do a research,have a look on the racing cars.The bigger the wheel,the bigger are the disk brakes.And what I am sayng its tested in the field,where brakes are really stressed and abused.Those vented disk brakes,where an improvement for the stock ryres,not for oversized wheels
RC Addict law of what?
RC Addict Boy how old are you?😂😩
older enough :)))
I need those
Only use slotted. The dis will cra k between the holes. The slots are there to have a place form the gasses to go when you are braking hard.
If the tires screw up your brake performance, what"s the point?
Oddly enough, people have big tired for off-roading.
Tires*
What happens if that jack rolls or fails and you're under the Jeep? You guys are crazy. Please use jackstands! Keep up the nice vids tho
Have you bought them from R1Concepts?
Dope another updated to the blue Jeep 👍👌👌👌
Cross-drilled brake disks are a hangover from the days when pads were made from inferior materials 30+ years ago when the old pads heated up gases would be emitted from the pads causing brake performance degradation so hole where drill in the disks to dissipate the gases. With modern materials this no longer necessary cross drilled disk are probably less effective than sold one because of slightly less surface area.
Awesome video guys! I didn't know you had a rear disc brake conversion on the Rubi. She's looking good!
Shouldn't the light bar be on the front? The hood will block the light from hitting the road. Just a thought
looks like your rear new rotor is solid no cooling fines You might want to try EBC green stuff brake pads I did and my Jk stops on a dime But I only have 33 with drilled and slotted rotors
Great vids guys, but please oh please if your under a vehicle put jack stands while you work.
Just love watching your videos guy, great job. Salut from Romania.
Y’all live in Chattanooga I see that’s we’re I live up here off Bonny oaks
When are you going to do the painting channel as I need to learn more about backyard automotive painting. You guys have got it down to a fine art.